Solar powered air conditioner WORKS without the SUN!
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
- Solar powered air conditioner installation video
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Nice job. Two criticisms though from a 40 year veteran HVAC company owner. 1- You should not interrupt the white neutral wire in the disconnect. It is a two wire disconnect for 240 volts where both lines are "hot". A neutral wire should never be broken or switched. Simply connect the white wires with a wire nut and you will be code compliant. Only the black wire should get disconnected by the disconnect. 2- the coil of line set is bad news. Not only is it less efficient due to temp loss but when the coil is vertical like that it can become an oil trap and cost you a compressor. It is best to cut the line and reflare it to the correct length. This requires the use of a vacuum pump after connecting. DIYers typically do not have a vacuum pump. Just my two cents..
Kudos to EG4 that their equipment shuts down when there is no sun and starts back up again when the sun comes up. My 3000 watt EG4 inverter does the same thing. No intervention required. For those of you who want to run this day and night in a house, run it off an EG4 inverter on AC. Their inverter handles up to 5000 watts of solar. Hook it up to the EG4 battery. The solar will run the mini split and any extra solar will charge the battery and you never have to touch anything. I wouldn't do it for this shed but I would set it up for a house. The inverter is about $700 and the battery is about $1200
I thought the max AC draw was 16A, which would make a 20A circuit breaker appropriate to prevent overload on a 15A CB. Since the wire being used (12/3?) is already sized for a 20A CB, then a 15A CB is undersized for the conductor. It’s common for 15A & 20A CB (14/3 vs 12/3) to be mixed in inadequately inspected residential installations. 😎
I would say the 38seer version would be more effective over a 24 hour time frame. You would only lose about 10-15% loss going through mppt and inverter. More panels on your charge controller would top off the batteries when the heat pump is not running, and in bad weather it would take less charge from a generator to run the 38seer vs the model you have. Just my thoughts and either system would serve you well. If I was doing a house I would use one of each type, if the inverter went down you would have heating or cooling while the sun is shining enough on the panels.
Love it. Need to get one for my garage!
You do some of the best videos with explanations I have ever seen, very cool stuff
Very well explained excellent job! Thank you for all the info. I’ll definitely get one!
excellent brother, here is a discount
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Awesome video
Glad you enjoyed it
Great videos really like the updates ..
Excellent. I will keep them coming. Thank you so much for watching
Hi Tad, enjoyed your video again as you explore and learn about the features on these. Someone said on last vid you dont have Wifi available (yet?) at the shed?? There are lots of additional features in the Wifi app, shows power blend stats and usage, you can schedule on/off times and so on. Thx! Great job on $50 discount code as well.
thanks
COOP
...
Thanks man, appreciate it!
You need a DC amp meter. Klein makes a nice one for around $100 available at Home Depot. Then you could check how much power your unit is getting from the solar panels.
You should always run the solar panels to a battery and charge the batteries when the loads aren’t being used. That builds up power throughout the day and uses it as long as the batteries have charge.
The idea is to have a minimal system, batteries and inverter are extra points of failure, inefficiency and cost. This is not a total off grid solution.
Don’t you have an inverter to run the AC side when the sun goes down? If so, assuming you have solar and batteries for that setup already? Cool concept though. Imagine that thing in tropical places like Hawaii where the sky is clear, and clear view of the sky. In summer, you would have solar powered AC until 8:30pm or later. Great concept, thanks
@jerrytalley802 yes
thanks Jimmi Simpson!
Those DIY mini splits need to come with a short length of tube and then they can sell extensions that are charged. Almost every video on CZcams has 10 feet of wasted tube coiled up outside which makes the system less efficient than it has to be.
No kidding. 16 feet is too long for first floor and too short for 2nd floor.
They do, but at the same time they can't keep 25 different length linesets. It doesn't make it less efficient, it's just a plain ugly eye sore. That's what I have against the precharged linesets, plus the connections are more prone to leak. Another thing, all units also have a min/max linesets length that they reguire.
@@Chris-gy1hf No, it's less efficient because the entire coil length remains cold for AC, and the insulation doesn't fully cover the coil. Insulation is never 100% efficient either. An unnecessarily long coil length decreases system efficiency.
You're supposed to have a plumber or AC guy install it who will have his own copper tube slicer and blowtorch to weld the end joint on. Takes 10 seconds but you need two really specific and expensive tools that aren't worth it if you're setting up your own system.
@@thomascrabtree no
I swear, if I hear one more time about "an oil trap" from those comment geniuses...
Brutal
Just curious why you don't have solar on the 2 directions.North and South like you know, you need just a question.And then why did you just add some batteries to run thanothing during the night
Build a nicer looking shed.great video
Thanks, will do!
@Taddydigest Love your videos! Thank you.
Can you please explain to me the reason for the excess lineset coiled behind the unit?
there are quick connects and this is a diy install so the line sets are made to connect and not made to be cut and shortened
👍 cool ir runs on120 volts to the 220 ones are a pane
Hey Tad, you should let me come over and check it out!!! Pretty frickin cool!!
Come on over
Thanks for answering my earlier question. It may not be obvious, but when you have it running off AC @10:10 and get 3.6A, it is likely drawing from both solar AND AC. I also found the manual for this, and it says on p3 that it can draw mostly DC power and the remainder as AC. You should have no need to ever manually switch power types as it will run from solar when (and however much) is available. Nice work!
Yes, absolutely. Correct, thank you so much. I'm glad that I was able to convey this in a way to where people can understand
Correct, and was just going to comment on this. You can tell both sources are available when you see the green solar panel and white plug on the indoor unit display. Color change to blue on plug display happens when you press the plug 🔌 icon on remote and limits AC as part of blend to 300W max (If there is NO Solar it still limits AC power to 300W max, what I do on my bedroom at night, and probably enough to also cool this shed at night)
I have 2 of them and with the fan on low it’s at 2.5amps on ac only, 4amps on hot days on low, 970w watts is the highest I’ve seen it running on max.
That's a pretty revolutionary system. Do you expect it to explode into a widely used system any time soon?
im getting 1
I have 2 here in AZ where it makes the most sense to use the sun that is causing the heat to cool your house. It is great in the winter here too. To knock the chill off in the garage
Great video. Very well done.
QUESTION: 1- if solar produces less power than does it take partial power from the grid or completely switches over to ac? In your video you were still getting 50V from solar. So basically is that a waste? 2- is it auto switch or we have to manually switch it? Thank you
To answer your question, the unit will automatically switch to the grid whenever the d c power is below what it requires
I looked into this after stumbling on your other video yesterday. I was looking into creating a set up like this last summer for my shop before knowing those hybrid units existed to run direct from solar. I got a shop out back with 50 amps from 3 circuits going to it. 15a for lights, 20a for office outlets and office window ac. 20a for shop outlets which air compressor, car lift, hoist, fan and fridge are on but those are only powered occasionally except fan and fridge and 1 at a time. So I thought a mini split run on solar be perfect cause when i needed it would be like 11 am to 6m when panels generating most power. and it wouldnt over load my limited circuits.
now my question is: the roof faces east and west but is a fairly gentle slope. Would the included panels be enough if all are on the west side? Or should i get an extra panel or 2 for the east side to help with late morning power to keep it on 100% solar?
I guess you can use it as a heater too cause its basically a heat pump. running it in the winter on AC wouldnt be a big deal cause not using tools and stuff as much and would just want to keep the building above 40 at least when not using it to keep stuff from freezing.
I was going to go with the 24k kit. the part that would be heated and cooled is something like 600sqft but 15 ft ceiling at peak and in the south i figured the extra cooling power would help cause we will be opening a 10 ft wide sliding door often to pull stuff in to work on.
The panels would not be enough just on that side. I would definitely get some extra panels. That way, they can face the West as the sun goes further to the West. That way, you can have the solar power powering the air conditioner for most of the entire day
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@@TaddyDigest thanks. How heavy are the panels? The shop (built prior to me) has rough cut 2x4 probably douglas fir for the rafters 24' OC and spanning 14 feet at around a 4/12 pitch. I was already in the process of reinforcing it by adding 2x8s 16" OC. you can span 14 feet with 2x8s 16 OC for floor joists. But thats the max. Do you think the 10 new 2x8s with the 8 old 2x4s would be enough to hold the weight of the panels? Or should I go with 2x10s for that section? its a metal roof btw. with plywood under metal. Building is 40 or 50 years old but been renovated some over the years.
Can you explain what the inverter is for? During your installation video, it looked like you plugged the solar panels right to the condenser, without any extra inverter needed. In this video, you have one mounted to the wall, and it seemed like it’s part of the circuit somehow. I can see it’s what’s producing your 120v, some I’m guessing it’s a battery backup system, separate from the solar panel for the split, ya?
Yes, it is battery backup for the mini split
I actually did an update video I posted the link in the description and in the comments go check it out
Question for you. Does the unit automatically restart after a loss of solar input, when running on dc only?
Thank you sir. Fine work.
yes sir
@TaddyDigest That was my question too, because in the video it seemed as though you had to restart the system?
what kind of spray foam in shed ? closed or open cell ? how thick ?
closed cell
Does your unit pull from AC and solar if the solar isn't enough or is it just one or the other?
Yes, the unit pulls from a c when solar is not enough
Isn't a 12K BTU unit way oversized for that shed?
not necessarily
Anything less than 250 square feet. You can not go over 12k.
This unit will vary its capacity, but if it was any bigger than you would have major short cycling and bounce back effect
Question
Do they have a model with a heat option?
they heat as well
they are heat pumps
When the sun goes down and the unit shuts off, does it retain all of its memory? Like Wi-Fi connection last temperature and mode for when the sun comes up the next day it just starts up and connects to Wi-Fi and starts running again. Or does it lose the whole set up and it have to be turned back on manually And reconnect to Wi-Fi.
It keeps going. It keeps its memory. It automatically switches over
@@TaddyDigest right when connected to AC switch is over automatically I’m asking on solar only does it retain all memory and reconnect and start in the morning? I should have been more clear with my question.
Starts when sun comes up on Solar only (It's super cool to watch it "wake up" lol) Sometimes, though with clouds and obstructions low on the horizon it will shut off with the LP-Low Power. For Solar only get a maximum number of panels and it really works best with AC connected still.
Yes they retain their settings. And reconnect to wifi when they get enough pv. I have 2 of these and only run them on pv for the most benefit the one in my 2 car garage will freeze you out even when it up to 110° outside in AZ my other one in the house does good to 100° to cool my 1500 sqf space then my main AC kicks on to help
Hello Tad. Great job on the video. Hope you can help me on this question. I want to purchase this AC/Heater unit for my new shed.
I wanted to hook up a 30 amp box inside then plug into a 30 plug.
Want to run washer and gas dryer. This AC, 2 TV’s, ceiling fan and strip led lights.
I was looking for a solar hook up to help of set the coast of the electric bill in this shed. What do you recommend? Thank you
At signature solar, they will help you with design
You should call them and talk to him about what you want.
Here is a discount you can use. Let Em know that I sent you.
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Use Code Taddy50 for $50.00 off your order over $500.00
Thank you for responding. I will reach out to them.
So, when the unit is connected to both DC (solar panels) and AC power, does it automatically switch between the two power sources as needed to maintain power or do you have to switch it manually?
Switches automatically
@@TaddyDigest thanks
You're welcome
so you had 240 volts coming in from the panels, is there a charge controller anywhere, inline or in the unit ?
another great question I will find out
Solar MPPT is built in, you can pop the top and see it over on one side. Also Google Deye Solar and you can read more
There is a mppt built into the outdoor unit, it’s located on top left side, the fan keeps it cool
Thanks man! going to be getting a couple!
How do you know how many panels you need and the size of each panel
Call signature solar. They have a design center that is free of charge. They will help you free of charge to design your solar system or your mini split
Signature Solar Website
signaturesolar.com/?ref=kvNaxADKBHncIq
Use Code Taddy50 for $50.00 off your order
This doesnt answer the Q brother
QUESTION: If you do not have ANY A/C (ie. completely OFF GRID), what happens when the Sun goes down?
Then what happens when the sun comes up?
Will it automatically turn on to last settings, once sun comes up in morning, (without Any A/C)?
Really important info, because if it works and restarts completely off grid, I will be buying several of these!
Excellent questions. Let me do a more detailed video
Much appreciated, Thanks!!!
You need batteries to run at night if you are off grid
I don’t care if it runs at night.
I want it to start back up, on it’s own, to the prior settings, once sun becomes available the next morning.
thx
You asked what happens when the sun goes down it shuts off and yes when the sun is out and has enough power it will come back on
Wondering if is there away to store power from solar power
yes
Yes they're called batteries. Lol but if you are asking for the excess power from the panels? It doesn't have a diverter or anything built in
What kind of insulation is that?
closed cell foam
So 71 is as cold as it gets?
No, it would get cooler but I didn't really let it run very long
What's with the coiled up lineset?
It had quick connectors on the end. And the line sets were already ready. To go, you don't have to vacuum
Won't those verticle loops in the suction line trap oil?
I'm still waiting on someone to answer that question I'm also confused because you had 250 watts coming in but it was running off of ac power
Can you over panel the unit?
That's a great question I don't know
Up to the 380V DC and 12A Isc limits. (There's some debate on the Isc limit, but I'm not personally testing it and fizzling my units lol)
If you want to run Solar only, you do want to have as many panels as possible to run best. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON PANELS FOR SOLAR ONLY!!! lol
As per signature solar they told me if I'm running only panels to only put 3 panels or you will fry the unit but if you have a charge controller then it doesn't matter
You already have batteries for 115 volt operation which I assume you have solar to recharge the batteries, so why spend the extra money on a solar powered mini split? I would just power a regular mini split off of the batteries and inverter.
This unit is just about the same price as a regular mini split. But it's already set up with the pv connectors. I would rather run my solar directly to the mini Split instead of running it to a battery And inverter
I have a bluetti ac 500 with 3 batteries at about 7g and it would struggle to keep up with this. Compared to just buying $600 in solar panels? It's a no brainer. The problem with power stations is they don't except high voltage panels most can only do 150voc max input
You only need 3 panels 370 watts each they cost $90 each
Efficiency is the word you're looking for.
That is way overkill for a lawnmower shed.
😄 🤣 😂 I am the overkill king
to bad its not 220vac 110vac are just weak for me
But they are also available in 220V
71° is 71°, regardless of how it got there. Is there something else you meant to talk about?
You are risking damaging your mini split with those Hyperion 395w solar panels. That solar mini split calls for a ISC of PV less than 12A and those panels are ISC rated at 13.7A.
Good point! They are bifacials, too so Isc 17.24A at 25% backside. I guess we will find out whether the "12A" limit really is a thing! (I don't think it is, but not risking my units to try it lol)
Am I wrong to believe that amps are drawn? Not pushed? So basically it is just limiting it to a max of 12 A which lowers the watts?
@@jasonrico8558 No you're absolutely correct and I believe that's what will happen despite what the manufacturer published, which I think is a misunderstanding or mistranslation
Who cares.
people that want to know
ad if you don't
then do not watch