JET-16 Milling Machine TEARDOWN for Spindle Bearing Replacement
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- čas přidán 15. 12. 2022
- Tearing down the JET 16 Mill/Drill spindle to replace the bearings. I have no idea what I am doing but we figured it out! Plus, a skit on how I feel about my insurance issues affecting the business. Enjoy, comment and subscribe! Thanks for watching.
Solved my conundrum about the removal of the top bearing pair. I have a similar Taiwanese mill/drill from a UK company called Warco. Its noisy as hell so I decided (with no help from the vendor) to strip it down. I actually took the quill out completely so I'm not looking forward to winding the clock spring back up! Love this guy's sense of humour and delivery.
I thought about possibly having to do that, but I'm not that brave. Cheers.
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice work
Thanks.
Because of this I got a clear understanding of the difference between the quill and the spindle and how they relate to each other.
Now I can more confidently do my own.
Yea, I wasn't understanding it either until I took it apart.
Great video, hilarious and seriously helpful, just picked up my jet and bearings are shot!
Great video, and the piss-take on the Insurance Companies in the sponsors message at the start was the icing on the cake. Pure genius!!!
Brilliant video. Very informative and brilliantly entertaining. Thank you 👏👏👍😀
Great video. Thanks now I know what im getting into.
That’s a disaster disassemble :) just finished same procedure on the same machine and understand your pain. But you did well, sending best regards! 🎉👌
I just milled a steel square back section of a 1” receiver for a lightweight trailer down to 3/4 taking 130 thou a pass with a 5 insert face mill I could have taken 200 easy, it’s still working fine. I only readjusted once a few months ago.
Great vid., as C14 rider I much prefer bike videos but anything you publish I'll watch. Very entertaing and educational. I'm sure ill apply your techniques to something im doing down the road.. keep 'em coming. Sorry to hear about your business woes, and for that reason is disgusting. They are pushing out the little guys so the big corporations can monopolize. Its happening in Canada too in some ways.
Very true commercial. Nice job on the mill.
The imprint or shadow of the roller bearing on the cup is from an extended period of disuse in a damp or unheated environment.
Literally, the bearings, cage &/or cup rust, inspite of grease, but the chance of occurance is increased when grease is old & thinned, or inadequate.
Thanks for tearing yours apart, on vid, if I need to replace bearings on my J-16, I won't be going in blind.
The external, 2nd spring is curious. My 16 doesn't have one. I rarely use the drill press option, but it seems to me the clock spring should be adequate, if adjusted correctly.
I was scared of those, until I had to remove my 1st; nothing to worry about, they don't go sproing & are easy to adjust.
Because of the vertical height these mills have, I got an ER32 collet chuck on an R8 shaft.
I have an ER32 collet for my small lathe & an ER32 - Jacobs 33 on my drill press, so I have ER32 collets, already.
When I got the R8 version, I found an eBay seller offering 10 collets, a (quality) cast/forged spanner wrench & the chuck for only $10 more than an R8 - E32 & a cheapo stamped steel spanner.
I only have to use the original R8 collets &/or big azz Jacobs chuck if I have to use a drill > 13/16". But, I've been using annular cutters, much more, after discovering how peaceful they are, compared to an equivalent sized twist bit.
For my money, I wish I would have bought annulars instead of a set of large twist bits.
GeoD
The gentleman who I purchased the machine from, said he had it the last 25 years and brought it down from New Jersey, who knows how long before that. He said that be bought it from Frankie Schneider back then, who was a race car driver. My research indicates Mr. Schneider was from Jersey so that jives. The seller said it was his impression when he bought it, that it hadn't been used all that much and added, that he didn't use it very often either. Thus, your observations and hypothesis is likely very correct. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL And it's humid as heck in NJ.
I'm in Oregon; we don't do hot humid in the West, we get humid in the winter only, when it's cold. It's why this has been called, God's Country. When it gets hot here, it's dry, doesn't suck all your energy.
On Sat, I got some tools back from my in-laws place in NJ. My wife's from back there & took a job in NY ~12yrs ago so we could pay attorneys in a lawsuit w/ a criminal enterprise masquerading as a mortgage company was trying to steal our house. (A little talked about aspect of The Mortgage Crisis of '08.)
I spent 8-9 yrs going back & forth every 3 months. (THAT wears on a guy, lemme tell you.)
I'd collected some tools back there, (as those of us who make/fix things tend to do.) I got cancer in '19, & my wife took leave to come help me thru treatment. Then Covid shutdown happened, & her company moved to work from home, so she's still here.
Her family packed up the stuff we wanted from the apt we had near her job. Then pops-n-law got long Covid about ½ way thru shipping stuff to us. A bunch of the tools were in an unheated building.
My wife drove out for a visit & brought the tools back; between the rodent mess & the rust, I'm in the middle of cleaning tools. It's like the rodents waded thru mud, then walked on every horizontal surface of every tool, in & around handle & trigger openings on drills, etc. Disgusting... face mask, gloves & lots of disinfectant!
The way civilians can treat tools is criminal. LOL
Just finished motorizing the mill head lift on my RC. Used an old Milwaukie reversible ½" Hole Shooter I've had for 30+ yrs & don't use anymore.
Direct drive via a modified Lovejoy coupling; it worked out great. Zips up & down. A Lovejoy, if you're not familar uses the same 3 prong connection our mills use on the hand wheels.
There's 2 steel ½'s w/ a urethane bumper piece that goes between the 2 steel ½'s to cushion steel on steel & manage non-perfect shaft alignment.
They come in sizes from ¼" to 5-6" shafts. Very handy.
Later,
GeoD
@@georgedennison3338 Mark from Winky's Workshop here on CZcams, he did the same thing to his mill. He even added some guides or tracks... kind of like vertical ways of sorts, to keep the head from turning while raising/lowering like on a round column. Check out his channel. Winky's Workshop. Clever guy, met him couple years ago at the Florida Flywheelers big show in February every year. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL Thanks for the tip... I may have seen some of his vids. I have a bunch of RC upgrade/fix vids saved in a playlist.
You're in Florida; what part?
I spent a while in Vero Beach in the late '80's; worked in the Dodgers org when they still had Dodgertown. I was assigned to the VB team as Athletic Trainer & also was responsible for all post surgical rehab, through out the org; if anybody had surgery during thr season, they rehab'd w/ me.
I traveled all over Fl, traveling w/ the VB team. The Florida State league is a nice job, for the minor leagues, all the teams are based at Spring Training HQs, so it's typically better facilities than the rest of A & AA baseball.
I might have got lucky w/ my old Jet-16. I anchored the column rack gear w/ 2 screws at the bttm & 2 up top as someone suggested doing, 1st. The head didn't budge when I loosened the clamping bolts & only moved when I cranked the handle. Haven't chk'd since I got it motorized, but testing it the other night, when I got it wired up, it didn't move much, if at all when I ran it up & down, & the bolts were real loose.
The drill motor has plenty o' torque, if I leave the clamping bolts slightly snug, it may be enough.
Regardless, before I run an auxilary shaft along the column, I will tear the thing apart & fill it w/ epoxy sand for more rigidity & mass. So, they're both a ways off, it's getting cold & I have plenty to do, anyway. I'm in the midst of a much needed, 25 yr overdue, reorg, remodel & expansion of my shop.
I bought the place had 6 months of work b4 we could move in, then had to keep working on it. Didn't have the time to layout the shop, optimize anything; it was throw the tools in & get busy.
I've been knocking walls out & making holes through others, wiring, integrating shelves & cabinets, trying gain back the lost space.
AND throwing out the last 25 yrs of accumulated junk AND tossing the prior 25 yrs worth I moved from the last house... lots of tossing out of stuff.
Plus, found a few things I'd forgot I had!
Well, gotta get up & to it. Things to do.
Later,
GeoD
I think I will send your link to a local maker space . I have a round column mill and wanted to know how the spindle was put together. Thanks!
Great video . I have the exact same machine and have studied the parts diagram. But seeing is believing. My bearings are fine but my pulley has been broken and welded. Not a very good weld job and it vibrates. I need to remove the pulley and do a better repair. The pulley also has a wobble and I thought it might be on the shaft wrong. The diagram made it look like it was on a tapered spline, but clearly it is a smooth taper. Thank you for the bearing and seal numbers. I may buy and extra set to have on hand. My machine has some sort of metal shield over the seal . I have added oil cups to the spindle bearings . Used the grease nipple hole for the lower one and drilled and tapped an upper one . Added a tube on the upper oiler to reach the bearing . Does anyone know where I could find a replacement cone pulley?
You’d likely need to have a pulley made. I mean it’s possible you may be able to find one that fits but that sucker is stout. How the hell did that crack?
Do you still need a step pulley for the main spindle/quill? Someone on Facebook has one. I can hook you guys up maybe. Email me. motorestofl@gmail.com.
There’s a gentleman on the Facebook page called “Round Column Mill Group” his name is Josh Hansen. Go on Facebook and join that group you’ll see his post about Jet 16 parts or email me. Trying to help you out.
I think the bearings need to be replaced on the Insura-Shaft too! That shaft is all out of whack!
Helpful video my Jet mill drill bearings are getting noisy so this is very timely! Did you have any luck sourcing the seal?
Yes I have. Please read Gordon's comment below. Measure up your shaft surface where the seal rides. They had a 46mm installed and the thing measures up 44.9 (45mm). If that's your case as well, you need to order a 45 x 72 x 12 seal. Amazon, eBay, etc.
Scott, one correction. You def need the 46mm ID seal. Although the spindle is 45mm at the seal, 45 is too snug on the shaft. Even with grease on the seal lips, it gets wicked hot from friction. So source a 46 x 72 x 12. Sorry about that. But I just reassembled today and figured this out.
@@MotoRestoFL Thanks for the follow-up! Glad you got it put back together!
I have the same Drill Mill I've torn it down wating on th bearings to show up- . I took the whole spindle out . My question is if you don't take the spindle out how did you press the New races back in ? William Nichols ( Shade Tree Gunsmithing )
I took the spindle out. It’s on the video. Unsure how you missed that.
@@MotoRestoFLI think the commenter meant “how did you press the new races in without removing the quill”?
@@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian You don't have to remove the "quill" just the spindle inside it. Then the races get driven out. On the top, there are standard races not cone and cup style, so they are a slip fit, but the spindle within the quill, that is tapered roller and all you have to do is remove the spindle out of the quill, drive the races out and bada-bing.
@@MotoRestoFL Are the new tapered roller races easy to “hand fit” into the quill?
@@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian oh sure. Just with normal interference fit. Use a standard bearing driver and/or a drift and tappy tap tap them in until they seat. No press needed.
I just purchased this exact machine however mine is not as nice as your machine. Can you direct me for a place for parts? Or a manual? Ebay? Thanks enjoy your humor. !!!
You can try Vintagemachinery.org but I bought my manual off eBay. But frankly, the manual is worthless. Though it lists parts by number on a drawing, it does not have any searchable parts numbers. The drawings are amateurish to boot. The bearings are standard, the numbers are on each bearing. If it’s indeed the exact same electric motor, you can wire it for 120 or 240 single phase. I have mine 240. And I wired up a reverse switch. Very handy. In fact I just used it today to use my fly cutter which is set up currently for left hand rotation.
sir can i know the size of the bearing
I don’t know the sizes but I think I showed the bearing numbers. That’s all you’d need.
Hahaha😂😂
U could have ended the video at the joke and nobody would complain.
31:55 sure looks like a 46 to me, not 48
You are right. Good catch. Of course that size is unobtanium. Appreciate it.
It gets better... first off, thanks for the comment. You saved the day. I hadn't thought to even check that the proper seal size was this one. Guess what, it's not. The seal shaft surface when measured is 45mm not 46. Have no idea why the MFG would install a 46mm seal. I slip the old seal over that shaft surface and it's way too large. It was something I couldn't see well being underneath the quill. I searched first for a 46mm x 72 x 12 and that's not available basically. Probably because it's a bad size. So I search for 45mm with the same attributes and bang. Many hits. I ordered one online but I bet my sausage that Bearings Marketing will have one. I will ask him Monday when I go down there for the bearings. Again, appreciate it. You viewers are awesome.
@@MotoRestoFL for shits and giggles I googled the 46 sized seal and got nothing... Aside from 1 hit of the 45. Glad it worked out for you