Yes Sir!, please post more video's of copper to stainless steel soldering using easy to get consumables, I've spent a small fortune on all kinds of silver solder... magic flux... and still I can't master even the smallest joint, I'm on the cusp of buying a MIG welder and be done with it. Thanks in advance mate.💯👍.
I have found that pre tinning the stainless is a fairly reliable way out of getting it to work, that is what I did here. If you take stainless, clean it and mount it level, add flux and a piece of solder cut from a roll, then heat it from below, when the solder melts it will usually wet the stainless. After it cools you can solder copper to the solder tinned stainless with ordinary copper flux.
Ezee I'm thinking of cutting sheets from old immersion tanks just clean off the impurities, only thing copper tanks waigh in for around 60 quid at the minute, plus try scrap yards, for stainless joints and vessels/ kettles. Hope this is useful to you, everyone seems to be heating their kettles with gas or electricity, but wood fire is free, I'm using propane, at the minute, but going a wood burner, soon as got time to build one.
@@johnallerton6402 If scaled up my system would be suitable for solid fuel heating but at the moment I am only running it at about 200W. Even the most modest solid fuel heaters are a lot more powerful than that so for my scale, electricity is more suitable that gas or solid.
Thanks for the video, and well done on finding a solution. I gave up and used map-gas and cadmium free silver solder. I found it was far easier. The flux for silver solder is a thick paste that only liquifies just before the silver solder melts.
I've never tried it. I've seen videos that make it look easy. I persevered because I wanted a solution that was cheap using simple tools. I've done oxy-acetylene brazing which is easy but a cheap butane torch is nether hot enough nor focused enough for me succeed at it.
The people who fail at this blow me away. Pick a big manufacturer, say Harris. Look at their catalog, or call them, pick the products for the applications, say Stay Brite solder and Stay Clean flux. Success every time. Of course all the standard basics apply, don't burn the flux directly etc, but you wouldn't do that with any joint.
The brands of solder and flux readily available varies quite a lot from country to country. Those are US brands but look similar to the Tin based solder and HCl Zn flux that I used
I cant believe how easy and cheap it is to just buy copper/brass/SS triclamp ferrules now days. It was only about 15 years ago i was hand making 2in ferrules by hammering oblong a strip of #4 or #6 solid round the base and carefully filling with solder, file mating surfaces flat. Gaskets were cut from cardboard wrapped to hell with ptfe.Pain in the butt to make but they are so beautiful. All that came about because of my inability to get a stainless npt adapter to stick.
Stainless ones are cheap and durable. You can get copper ones but they are a lot more expensive and much softer so don't last as long. I have not found brass ones. It is a great system that makes life a lot easier!
I tried that but it only seems to work if you heat it fast. I'm using a $15 propane torch so "fast" is relative! I wish I had learned the pre tinning trick from other videos. I would have save a lot of time, solder and gas!
Hi, hope all is well with you, have been waiting eagerly for your next info packed edition. Cheers.
Yes Sir!, please post more video's of copper to stainless steel soldering using easy to get consumables, I've spent a small fortune on all kinds of silver solder... magic flux... and still I can't master even the smallest joint, I'm on the cusp of buying a MIG welder and be done with it. Thanks in advance mate.💯👍.
I have found that pre tinning the stainless is a fairly reliable way out of getting it to work, that is what I did here. If you take stainless, clean it and mount it level, add flux and a piece of solder cut from a roll, then heat it from below, when the solder melts it will usually wet the stainless. After it cools you can solder copper to the solder tinned stainless with ordinary copper flux.
Thanks for that 👍.@@tight1449
Ezee I'm thinking of cutting sheets from old immersion tanks just clean off the impurities, only thing copper tanks waigh in for around 60 quid at the minute, plus try scrap yards, for stainless joints and vessels/ kettles. Hope this is useful to you, everyone seems to be heating their kettles with gas or electricity, but wood fire is free, I'm using propane, at the minute, but going a wood burner, soon as got time to build one.
@@johnallerton6402 If scaled up my system would be suitable for solid fuel heating but at the moment I am only running it at about 200W. Even the most modest solid fuel heaters are a lot more powerful than that so for my scale, electricity is more suitable that gas or solid.
Thanks for the video, and well done on finding a solution. I gave up and used map-gas and cadmium free silver solder. I found it was far easier. The flux for silver solder is a thick paste that only liquifies just before the silver solder melts.
I've never tried it. I've seen videos that make it look easy. I persevered because I wanted a solution that was cheap using simple tools. I've done oxy-acetylene brazing which is easy but a cheap butane torch is nether hot enough nor focused enough for me succeed at it.
The people who fail at this blow me away. Pick a big manufacturer, say Harris. Look at their catalog, or call them, pick the products for the applications, say Stay Brite solder and Stay Clean flux. Success every time. Of course all the standard basics apply, don't burn the flux directly etc, but you wouldn't do that with any joint.
The brands of solder and flux readily available varies quite a lot from country to country. Those are US brands but look similar to the Tin based solder and HCl Zn flux that I used
I cant believe how easy and cheap it is to just buy copper/brass/SS triclamp ferrules now days. It was only about 15 years ago i was hand making 2in ferrules by hammering oblong a strip of #4 or #6 solid round the base and carefully filling with solder, file mating surfaces flat. Gaskets were cut from cardboard wrapped to hell with ptfe.Pain in the butt to make but they are so beautiful. All that came about because of my inability to get a stainless npt adapter to stick.
Stainless ones are cheap and durable. You can get copper ones but they are a lot more expensive and much softer so don't last as long. I have not found brass ones. It is a great system that makes life a lot easier!
Hi, looks like you have learned all the tricks, a bit smaller flame would give you better control.
Looking forward to seeing the apparatus in auction.
I tried that but it only seems to work if you heat it fast. I'm using a $15 propane torch so "fast" is relative! I wish I had learned the pre tinning trick from other videos. I would have save a lot of time, solder and gas!