How to measure the CFM of your Electric Fan.
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Who's specs are correct? Who's aren't? Not all Electric Fan Manufacturers are telling the truth. Let's find out who's lying, and who isn't, shall we?
In this video, we'll show you how to measure the CFM of your electric fan. By measuring the CFM of your fan, you'll be able to determine how much air it's blowing and whether or not it needs to be replaced.
This is an easy how-to video that will help you keep your electric fan working properly and blowing maximum air! By measuring the CFM of your fan, you'll be able to avoid costly repairs down the road! I''ll be comparing several fan manufacturers; Cold Case's twin 14's, BeCool's Twin 11's, and SPAL Twin 14's.
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14 in cold case ,,absolute giveaway was the 120watt sticker =approx 10amps
High performance fans will be at least 15 amps upto 22amps ,,200watts and up
All open flow no restriction cheap low perf fans will fail when attached to a thick radiator core and attempt to perform under load .
Thanks Paul... yeah, I was definitely concerned when I first put them in. Which lead to me making this video. Thanks again!
Thanks for these CFM calculations and your example of how to use the Anemometer. I have the BTMETER BT-846A, Digital Anemometer. I had no idea you had something similar or I guess the same one as I did. I was desperate to find a good explaination of how to measure CFM properly. I had three case fans on a computer tower that were unknown, could not find any information on them online. I appreciate your explainations and your visual video very much. I may be a PC builder and not a car mechanic but we work with a lot of fans too. I will be keeping this video in my saves just in case I forget how to do this again. Thank you, sir and God bless.
What a great testimonial! CFM is CFM, no matter what type of fan, for any application... thanks for sharing your experience! Thanks again for taking the time to drop a comment.
Impressive explanation about the fans👍🏾
Thanks!
Dude, love your work, this is my new favourite channel!!
Thanks Brother! Much appreciated!
Killer info...keep the tech coming. Im running the dual 11" paddle set up on my stroker bbc. It has worked excellent for me so far.
Thanks Brother! Yup, the dual 11's worked great for me too. I just want more. Ha, ha...
@@FastMonty Always!! Mine runs ice cold like 160-170 top most of the year. In the heat of California it’s 180-185 tops.
@@Allianceoffroad That''s pretty awesome. Just got back from Quarantine Cruise 34... 200 miles round trip, twin Spal 14's are fantastic!
@@FastMonty Twin 14” Spals are the ticket no doubt!
As always I love your videos and the the details !! I was particularly interested in when you swapped out the radiator with the twin fan CFM total vs the Mark 8 single fan CFM total. Note: my brain hurts trying to remember math from over 35yrs ago. .
Thanks Raffi, not to worry, my brain is a little sore from all that math too. I've heard good things about the Mark 8 fans, just don't know what the actual CFM is for those. :) Thanks again.
@@FastMonty Hey again, what are your thoughts on the S-Curve fan vs Straight. and dual 14"s vs 1 16".. i have also been looking for a Soft Start Fan Module to ease the Amp draw vs on/off relay. any thoughts?
@@r1g2v3 Straight blades pull more CFM when loaded, but S Curves are quieter. Dual 14 or One 16? Depends on the total CFM. And, of course, AMP load. I have one relay controlling each of my fans, so I'm not really concerned about amp draw, when it's around 25 amps per fan. One 16 with similar CFM as twin 14's will have more than double the amp draw. I haven't experimented with soft start controllers, my understanding is those are for brushless fans? Let us know what you find out!
FMG! great content. i kinda did what you did. cold case radiator kit with their dual fan set up (67 Bird). when the kit showed up I tested the fans for cfm. sad to say that their “1100 cfm fan” was off. best test result was 950-975 no load. so i returned everything and only purchased the radiator. and I installed the 1995 Thunderbird fan. 18” blade pumps 3250 cfm no load. with a Flex a Lite soft start controller. (regulates voltage to start @ 60% power then moves up to 100% as the temp increases.). if anyone is interested w/ pn’s or details let me know. FMG, huge Thank You for your content. If it wasn’t for you i’ll still be struggling. Thank You!!!!
@@r1g2v3 Thanks Raffi! And great tip on using a fan controller... might be another test I need to run, ha, ha... thanks again!
Cold Case makes a great radiator, would never deny it. I have one in my 79' T/A with a 400 and it keeps it icy cool with the factory mechanical fan/shroud and heavy duty clutch.
But they should stick to radiators. Their fan shroud design is restrictive and too flat/close to the radiator. One of the best I've heard for at least my car is the Flex-a-Lite #295 dual 13.5". They're meant for trucks but happen to fit over the 2nd gen radiator perfectly. Advertised output is 4600 CFM, but almost as importantly is that the shroud design is conical, so ram air evacuation is a lot more efficient rather than just slamming into a flat surface like the cold case fan shrouds. Also, they have flaps built into the shroud that are forced open by ram air that aid in more air movement when at speed.
One guy on PY forums says they were the only fans he ever had on his Pontiac motor that actually cycled on and off like a modern car.
Thanks Robert... Agreed. I love the Cold Case radiator design too. I'm just thankful I followed through with my gut to double check their spec. Can't wait to test the Spal 14s. Good tip on the Flex-a-Lite twin fans. Thanks for sharing!
It's battle on my 62 Pick up trying to find a fan that does what it claims, SPAL has been the best by far, but they also offer several different levels of fans. Research is key and cheap fans shouldn't even be considered.
Agreed! Thanks Jimmy!
Wait until you check out PROFORM's new brushless 12V universal fans that are coming out next month...insane CFM...beat SPAL, but with soft start to reduce amp spike. I saw the 12" at PRI and was totally impressed!
Thanks Brother! I've been intentionally waiting for more manufacturers to come out with Brushless competitive product so I can test, evaluate, etc... I'll keep an eye out. Thanks for the comment, and heads up. See ya!
I'm strongly considering getting a hat. I been helped out alot with your channel. Love my pontiac.
That's awesome! Glad I could help... here's another way to support the channel, I call it the Full Monty Club, just started it... the summary vid; czcams.com/channels/B2KWiUuWR_OFpJtXS94bCQ.htmljoin I love my Pontiac too, ha, ha... see ya!
Thing is fan blade geometry is probably the biggest issue espically if the radiator is a high fin count needs a very high static pressure so an aggressive fan blade pitch as well as smaller area between blades noctua I know computer fans but same idea they make some that yes flow so much air but put Any restrictions and there is a massive difference
Good point, it's the Second biggest issue, behind motor size. Thanks!
Can u do a test wit fan only cfm test vs fan with shroud, I think that would be interesting to see how much more cfm u will get with a shroud
A shroud will not change the CFM. It's the airflow moving through the smallest opening. If you put a radiator in front of the shroud, then the CFM will decrease, which I showed.
Good info Mike. I've got a Cold Case rad/fan setup for my Firebird that I want to test out too.
Definitely test it to make sure. I just got the SPAL 14s in today. Night and Day! Stay tuned for that video.
You rock, this is exactly what i needed! Subscribed...
Welcome to the FMG Family!
Have you heard of Delta PAG. They are in NY. Their fans were designed to handle Taxi's.
I have... they're one of the only full system brushless kits on the market. Might need to test one out. :)
dewitts pro series are great rads that use Spal fans as well . Cool video comparison 🤘🏻
Good to know. Thanks for the comment!
Nice video but wouldn't be suppose to check the air blowing on the outside blowing into your sensor instead of sucking the air?
Hmmm, not sure what you mean, but I did it the correct way. We're measuring velocity over a set area. Doesn't matter if it's before or after, the measurement would be the same. It changes dramatically when you put something in front of it, like a radiator. :) That's why I did that test too. Thanks!
@@FastMonty well in term of wind turbulence there's a difference normally if you do on the suction side you might not catch all the air flow! Usually you want to check the Air flow on the blowing pushing side ... Normally
@@FrankoZetto Yup, like a funnel... the inlet side has a wider area of air moving, and may not exhibit the same velocity as the outlet side. Thanks Frank!
From your experience what company would you recommend or would say you personally like the best?
Great question... unfortunately, I haven't tested many. So far, SPAL has been fantastic. Thanks!
5:30 - No! Pie are _round_ Cornbread are square!
Ha! Agreed.
ever think about using a DC Ammeter to measure actual amps of each fan. would be cool to know roughly how many CFM per amp each fan makes. obviously some fans are more or less efficient due to design but could be a cool way to guesstimate CFM by amps.
for example i noticed that Coldcase fan had a sticker saying 120w @ 12v means its rated for 10amps, actual amps probably vary also. but that would mean ~1400cfm @ 10 amps = 140cfm per amp
you got me inspared to test some of my different e-fan setups. i just ordered a anemometer and i have a DC ammeter. i know my current Lincoln MKC (dual speed dual fan) draw quite alot of power but for such an uncommon fan, theres no CFM ratings. think each fan on high speed draws like 22 amps @ 13.4v mounted to radiator. will be interesting to see mounted and unmounted CFMs
Yup, recently spent too much money on a Fluke Clamp Ammeter. Still have yet to use it, lol... I more curious about the start up Amps, so don't blow out relays. (I haven't blown any, YET lol) Keep us posted on those Mark VII's!
@@FastMonty yes startup spike is pretty important. each of my fans from off to high were like 45amps for a second or so. easy to blow a fuse or cause longevity issues. not many people realize that normal Bosch style relays are usually only rated for 30 amps. many fan controllers cant handle that. Derale 'high amp' controllers says 35amps per fan which sounds like plenty until you factor in peak amps. which is why they have notes saying it wont work with some common use e-fan swaps due to high draw.
something to also consider is going with a PWM fan controller. they vary the fan speed. less noise, reduce fluctuations, have soft start ability, as well as many other features. I just received an AutoCoolGuy PCM controller because im sick of fluctuations and power spikes from coming on and off. might be a good idea with those Spal fans
These fans im using are more from a newer Ford Escape. Lincoln MKC is Lincolns version of it which have slightly more powerful fans on some packages. I use them on 87-96 Ford Trucks because they fit the radiator almost perfectly, decent airflow, and are very thin profile.
@@a4channoob Love it... does the PCM controller control a normal Brushed fan? Or, is it only Brushless? This reminds me I need to pack a few extra relays in my glove box... ha, ha...
@@FastMonty while some relays might be rated for higher amps rating. The genuine Bosch relays do tent to be better. Most standard 5-pin relays are rated for 30 amps but they do have some rated for 40 and I think maybe 50.
So far I have been fine with 5 pin Bosch relays but I do carry a spare.
The 4-pin higher amperage Bosch 'power relays' would be nice if anyone made holders for them. That's what a lot of OEM us for efans an fuel pumps.
@@FastMonty not sure why my relay didnt post.
most PWM controllers are for brushed fans. a few are designed for brushless. so they would work for most fans used
Derale makes a more mainstream PWM controller but its amperage rating isnt very high, probably not enough for yuor Spals. also the reviews are not great. seems like issues with the temp senders
i was recommended DCControl and AutoCoolGuy who make them for more high power applications. DCControl however takes over a month to receive so i went AutoCoolGuy. just received my NB-100 yesterday, really quick shipping 2 days after ordering.
These controllers are pretty large tho. mine is 7.5" x 7.5" x 2-3/8". and they mount sender on the outlet of the radiator instead of inlet.
some fans experience buzzing with PWM. this is a reason i chose the 'No Buzz' NB-100 to help prevent it. AutoCoolGuy has a small section of fans reported to buzz and one of the Spal 13" fans was listed
I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty with a factory electric fan, works great even 104 degree summer including A/C.
Not surprised. Stock engines after the mid 80s should behave like that. This needs to be addressed on older engines or any engines modified with blowers, turbos, etc. Thanks!
Hope I'm not replicating here, but you need to know the fan's "static" numbers. That's the 'torque' value, or non free slowing power of the fan..
I know what you mean, but that's not practical. The reason is, the CFM is a combination of the motor design, blade design, and free flow area. Lastly, none of the fan manufacturers publicize the start up torque of their motors. Hope that helps...
I'm building sbc 350 want to do dual fan shroud setup what size fans would you use?
Bigger is better. :) The trade offs are AMP draw, and noise. If you don't care about those two, go as big as freakin possible. :) Hope that helps!
just a small detail. Pi is 3,14159265 and not ....9625. but a such a small decimal place will not change the result that much.
Whoooaaaa! Congratulations! You're the only one who has passed my test. Imagine, 20k views, and you're the first to call me out. Look at the big brain on you! Thanks for the comment, you won!
Have you seen the industrial Spal fans? My dual 18" brushless fans pull 150 amps combined at full chooch. You will need a very high end Mechman alternator.
I have not... got a part number? I'm shocked they pull 150 amps. I'm pretty sure a proper brushless motor should pull less amps than a brushed motor. But, I'm just a Mechanical Engineer... electrons and I typically don't agree. ha, ha...
@@FastMonty there are 2, industrial 18" fans from Spal, VA164-ABL806HT-116A
& VA164-ABL1002HT/R-124A
@@trdscfjc I'll check em out. Thanks!
@@FastMonty let me know what you think of those fan specs
@@trdscfjc So, brushless fan specs do not match brushed fan specs... I mean you can't compare them. One lists Max RPM, the other Lists CFM, etc... things to note, for me. I like that the Spal brushless has the controller built in. The 18" is too big for me, I could only use one. If it's one 18" brushless versus two 14" brushed... the two 14s would pull more air. The other disturbing thing is there's no AMP draw listed for the Brushless. If you're saying they pull 150 amps total, that's way too much. I know I've seen other Brushless set ups pull half the amps of a brushed set up, with same or better cooling properties, ie constant on, variable speed based on temp, soft start, etc... Thanks for sharing, but the hunt for an ideal brushless solution continues. :)
Pulling through a radiator cfm isnt really a measurement im interested in. Static pressure is what is needed to push air through the radiator.
Yeah, I couldn't find my Pitot Tube. So, we're gonna have to settle for measuring CFM. (And Static Pressure is not a fan spec, so there's that too) Thanks!
You're also might want to check your thermostat to see what you got and when it opens up to let the hot water in and out and when it shuts off that also can protect you know so when it's that
Thanks Walter... Thermostat's are only for maintaining engine temperature. The Radiator/Fan need to be efficient enough to help maintain the temp, when it gets past the thermostat temp rating. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for the video. It's really helpful! Have you ever tried measuring CFM of american volts fans? Do they really comply the promised spec? I want to buy one because they offer high performance fans
I've never heard of them... I'll keep my eyes pealed. If you end up testing it, let us know! Thanks for the comment!
I love you series. I hope this will help with my project. Just bought a cold case radiator they said a 12 inch fan is the max size. It’s not cooling my big block in a 68 Camaro. Can you give me the part number for the 14 inch S.P.A.L. fan ? And is it brushless? And where can I buy them? Thank you.
Thanks Brother... they are NOT brushless, the part numbers are in the description of the video. Have fun!
Depends on the fan u buy amp control or may not be enough, the problem I have with my fan control is in initial start up the fan is pulling too much draw and Burning up the connector that comes from my fan. So I am having to get rid of the control and use a 4amp relay . My Spal fan said it’s 30/40 amp which I think is a lot for a 14 inch fan
Start up amps is always a concern. Definitely recommend a relay, which I have one per fan, and adequately sized wiring. You mention using a control, is that for a brushed fan?
@@FastMonty the control I mention is a module that comes on the car that control the fans.
@@1989rrichard Ahhh, can you share what car this is for? Most of us have a thermocouple switch in the manifold.
@@FastMonty this is for a 2003 Mitsubishi lancer evolution
@@1989rrichard Ahhh, that's making more sense now, basically a modern car. ha, ha... I'd upgrade the relay, and wiring. OR, find a fan with lower amp draw. Where then you might run into CFM issues. Nothing wrong with higher amps, as long as you're prepared for it.
Which direction should the s type fan rotate for the best air flow? C> or C
It should rotate in the direction the blades are desgined for... if the fans are behind the radiator, the fans need to "suck" the air, so the blade angle should correspond with the direction. Hope that helps. Thanks!
@@FastMontyhe’s asking which is better, “swoosh” direction or “scoop” direction. I’m curious too.
@@bullhead360 He's asking Counter Clockwise, or Clockwise. My answer is the same. :) It depends where the fan is mounted, and what it's designed to do. If it's behind the radiator, you need a "puller fan". Depending on the fan blade design would determine the direction. Hope that helps.
@@FastMonty the answer is most likely the fan is designed to be more efficient in the “swoosh” direction versus the “scoop” direction. But like you said, it depends.
@@bullhead360 Ohhh I get you now... yes, the convex edge is the leading edge. But, could also depend... ha ha Thanks!
If you can, test out Delta PAG brushless fans. I’ve herd they are the best fans on the market!
Yeah, they're on my list... thanks for the comment!
Talk to Delta PAG and see if they want to endorse you. They are trying to get a foothold in the industry. They do brushless with controllers for classic cars.
Yup, already have ... unfortunately, they're unwilling to offer a discount to you guys. So, I'm not super motivated to test it. (It's also around $2000 for their radiator/shroud/fan kit) Maybe one day I'll get around to it. Thanks!
@@FastMonty
What a shame. They make a good product.
@@AB-80X Yeah, for sure... I still love their radiators.
How recommendable is the Derale brand with the Tornado series to cool a V8 5.7 engine?
I have no idea... if you end up getting one, let us know how it test's out. :)
I only have one but haven't installed it yet on my 79 Chevy c10 want to install a pair, will the derale brand be good quality?
@@alexhernandez1733 I don't know, I've never owned one. If you test it, and it matches their advertised spec, I'd say you're good to go. Have fun!
I'm your #1 fan
Ha! That's Punny1 I use that line in the install of the Spal fans... see ya next time.
AWESOME DUDE
THANK YOU FOR SHARING
1 SICK RIDE
Thanks Brother!
@@FastMonty I don't know if you remember I have the BLACK ON BLACK 1968 GTO 4speed stick shift WITH 400. With hide away headlights
@@waqarsyed6641 Ahhh yeah, thanks for the reminder! What's your next project?
My next project is to Purchase one of your hats.
And then suspension lowering the car and getting wheels and tires and then comes the motor I bought the Cold Case radiator because of you Thank you for sharing all your videos
@@waqarsyed6641 Ha! That's awesome! Thanks for the support, and let me know if any questions pop up. By the way, these Spal fans are running great!
Get a modern 500watt 18” fan from large mercedes or bmw models
they can blow over 4000 cfm and are cheap from wreckers
they come with controler too, all u need is pwm signal
these fans come 500 and 850 watt-500 is the one
Agreed. The hard part is PWM implementation. Thanks for the comment!
Why did you choose spal over Perma-Cool? Perma-Cool claims better CFMS.
No reason... My original Spal's met their published spec so I stayed with SPAL. Thanks for the comment!
Perma-cool are just chines fans like these cold case fans false inflated claims unfortunately flex-a-lite does the same thing as well.
Lincoln Mark VIII 18” fan is what i have on my truck, they move an Enormous amount of air (somewhere in the neighborhood of 4000cfm) check out the last video i post you can see the pic in the thumbnail.
Agreed, they do move a ton of air, and a ton of amps too. ha, ha... Most of us car guys can only use one 18" fan... cuz they're huge. My twin 14s fit perfectly, as you can tell. Thanks for the comment, and keep up the good work!
Hey Monty, isn’t it more likely that Cold Case made a mistake and shipped you the 12” fan kit instead 14” ? I just checked on Butler and when picking fans you have two choices, 12 or 14. But think about the warehouses workers in the Cold Case warehouse, they simply picked the wrong fans.
I wish that was the case... (Ha, see what I did there?) When I first received the kit, I confirmed that every portion of the kit was the correct part number. A 12" fan is dramatically smaller than a 14", so that's not the problem. As mentioned in the video, I love the Cold Case radiator, and Shroud, but they clearly do not make the fans themselves. Devils Advocate, I received TWO defective fans? Highly unlikely. I suspect it's a Chinese knock off fan who inflated their CFM rating. (As most of them do) Thanks for the fact checking and dropping a comment. See ya!
I’ve got the exact same ColdCase setup in my ‘69 GTO as you bought. I also thought the fans were not up to the quality of the radiator. After seeing your video I measured mine today and same as yours i.e., not really 14. I always suspected they didn’t pull 2k CFM each, but didn’t know how truly pathetic they were. So your video was one of the most useful for me, and I am going to make that fan switch too.
@@Scottf5937 Thanks for the honesty Scott. Let us know how the fan swap goes, on the SPAL swap video. Thanks!
u can not take max. readings on anemometer.u need to take multiple readings at differerent area and average.
Maybe. BUT, my method duplicated the SPAL spec. Therefore, that's the method to use in this case. Thanks!
Since the fans are ‘sucking’ air through the heat exchangers, wouldn’t one want to measure in front of the fans as opposed to how much they ‘blow?’
You could do that, if you can get in there. :) But, I bench tested behind the fan, and proved I could duplicate the spec, so no sense in changing the way I measure it when bolted to the radiator. Thanks for the comment.
Engine off voltage is lower. I bet at a higher voltage test 1 would produce better numbers
Fantastic point! Might have to try that one of these days... ha, ha...
Some fan maker use the fan shroud OD size and some use the actual fan diameter.
Agreed. And that slight OD difference, doesn't make a ton of difference with the math. I'd prefer to use the actual opening what air is moving through. Thanks again!
L.S swap my 93 Chevy k1500, stock radiator Ford Windstar fans I only run one side for now because the AC is not charged. Don't know the CFM don't know the measurement of the fans truck don't get hot. Spent the extra money on cam Springs pushrods intake throttle body and a turbo. Maybe I'll hook up the other fan next 😉
Ha! Money well spent. Yeah, get that other fan going, ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
I bought a 2017 1000 watt BMW brushless fan off ebay for testing, used $265 with free shipping.. I didnt have a Anemometer to do accurate cfm test but vs the Mk viii fan, the BMW put it to shame in freeair and all others ive tested. The Volvo 9497929 is a brushed unit & is right behind those 2, but has cooled a 970hp Grand National without a problem... I have bought every PWM controller modules except the Delta Pag unit to test with these PWM controlled fans, they all work great.. Id like to find a OEM PWM controller that uses only a temp sensor and not a ECU.. The BMW uses a 101hz signal iirc..
Awesome! Thanks for the summary of your findings, great stuff!
I wonder if it would be easier and cheaper to just install a complete Delta PAG brushless fan kit.
@@deltapag5051 Fantastic Question! Send me a couple, and I'd be happy to test em. 😁
@Fast Monty's Garage I would love for you to do a 14" fan shoot out. Also including the latest brushless tech. You already did the Spal 14 brushed, if you're interested, test Delta PAGs 14" brushless vs other 14" brushless. See what's what
@@deltapag5051 I agree! shoot me an email to discuss further, when you can... fastmontysgarage@gmail.com Thanks!
I got the Cold Case radiator, shroud, and fan kit for my 77 Transformula. Not impressed. The shroud was not square and I replaced the fans also with better ones.
I hear you ... just got back from Quarantine Cruise 34... 200 miles. Twin SPAL 14's are fantastic! Install video coming soon.
Hate to jump off the subject but I have a 69 and I like your wheel set up and the the way they are tucked could you tell me the brand back spacing so I may do the same
No worries Michael... They're US Mag Bandits. The rears are 20x10 and the fronts are 19x8.5 Both the front and rears have custom backspacing because of my brakes. So, you really need to do your own measuring for offsets. Have fun!
I would wager that they measure the fan size by the mounting holes. As with speakers the cone/driver of an 8" speaker is not 8" in diameter, the mounting-holes are 8" on center to the opposite mounting hole (180%) for mountings with an even number of holes. Odd numbers such as with the 5 lug wheels on your "Goat" determine the pattern size in a different relationship of the mounting holes to each other with no reference to radius or diameter of the resulting circumference...
Good question... all I know is however the heck that one fan was measured, it's wrong. Ha ha. Thanks!
should do a comparison of the spal electric verse a mechanical 18" flex blade 7 blades, curious to see if theres a big difference.
Ha! That would be a good test, but I ain't goin backwards. If you have that fan, test it, and let us know! Again, we're only concerned about idle CFM. Thanks!
Finaly...a real world test....nice✌ 2000 cfm is not enough ti cool a vehicle....esp. in a hot climate like fla or az....you need 4000 min. ....do a test on a flex fan 🤠 thx
Thanks Tom! My opinion, no way a flex fan can pull 4000 cfm at idle. Which is the worst for our cars... waiting in traffic. Thanks again!
@@FastMonty a clutch fan wont either...unless you lock it up...and even then i dont think it will pull 4000
@tomkelly3896 exactly! That's why electric fans are the way to go. Thanks for the comment!
I have 2 16in fans and they blow like a hurricane 🌀
As they should! ha, ha... who makes them, and on what car? (For others to learn from you)
im using ford rapter Efans for my 1957 belair with 305 super over kill 😂😂😂😂
Yes! I love over kill! Thanks for dropping a comment!
@@FastMonty
where i live its reach 124 F° so i really needed that power for A/C
@@tj-hero Agreeed! That's freakin hot. Glad you got the over kill option. Ha, ha...
There is no electric fan that will beat the factory clutch fan. And if you have a cold case you don’t need the electric fan. With a 160 stat, factory fan and clutch and proper timing curve that car wont ever make 180°. Not even with the AC on. Not even on a 10.75/1 iron head running AC, 100 octane Avgas and a full 36° of timing. I know because I have one. In Texas. Where it’s hot. Soooo… why? Idle cooling? Add a vacuum advance can. It’s cheaper and more effective. I’d much rather change a fan clutch on the side of the road than deal with overheating, failed fans, melted out wiring, relays and burned down alternators. I’ve watch guys do that. Doesn’t look fun. One of them didn’t have enough extinguisher. I’d carry two! Not to mention it sounds like you’re rolling up in a giant hive of wasps. I always deduct 50% off the “cool factor” when I hear a Poncho do that. This car is better than that! 😉
Well brother, you are entitled to your own opinion. A factory fan will work some of the time, but NOT all the time. Especially when people like us start approaching 600hp, cooling becomes more difficult. So, this video is about optimizing electric fans, since you don't have one, it shouldn't really bother you... ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
Electric fan doesn't waste hp and fuel when you don't need the fan running.
@@aventari Good point. Thanks for the comment.