Pouring A Concrete Floor on Radiant Tubing (Heated Concrete Floors)
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- #EverythingAboutConcrete #MikeDayConcrete
Pouring a concrete floor on radiant tubing. We're pouring a heated concrete floor in this video. Did we puncture the pex tubing? You'll have to watch the video to see.
We pour a lot of radiant heated concrete floors here in Maine. Radiant heat in a new house is a very efficient way to heat your home.
Some people install the pex tubing themselves and some hire a heating specialist to install the whole system.
Pouring the concrete over the tubes isn't really any different for us than pouring a regular concrete floor. We're just careful not to damage the tubes as we walk on them.
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I own a masonry and concrete company in Michigan. We pour a lot over radiant, Only different is our mechanical contractors have to loop the zones together and put 50psi in the lines with a gauge attached, I take a picture of the gauge before we pour so there is never a question of we put a hole in during the pour.
Hi Mike, I'm not from USA, I'm from former USSR country, I've never seen before that in USA people do such type of heating, in our country people do it almost in each house, we call it warm floors, I've subscribed to your channel.
Hi Mike! Love your content, thanks for all the great wisdom. We pour exclusively on radiant heat floors here in Alaska. We do mostly mono slabs with thickened footings. We usually staple the pex to the foam first and then put the mesh on top. We don't use fiber, so the mesh is necessary, and we try to pull it up in the concrete a bit.
We recently purchased an Mx fuel power screed and I've been watching all your videos trying to learn how to use it on a 60 yrd pour coming up. All your videos are priceless to us younger guys with no teacher to show us how it's done. Thanks again for all your great videos!
Oooooohhhh Heated floors. So fancy. I want to do this to my driveway because I hate shoveling snow. And I agree that the pipe is very rugged. Never punctured it. Great video!
I want to do my driveway too.
You answered my questions about copper tubing during the video just as I was wondering about it.😀👍
Eric impressed me the way he fit right in with the crew. We had a couple teachers in my union (Laborers) who
were the same way, working right along with us doin a good job! A pleasure working with them.😎
Thanks John
I knew a plumber 60 years ago put steel or copper pipe under his cement sidewalk and connected it to his boiler because he wanted to melt the ice and snow. Needless to say it didn't work because he didn't give it any room for expansion. His theory was ahead of his time.
Good idea, especially for my front stairs.
Great job, very efficient, I used to hand screed all my basement floors with pipes..the lazer is much better..you guys rock..
Thanks
Awesome videos, Mike - great commentary and very informative. I realize that you need to follow the directions of whoever has installed the tubing for radiant floor heating. But for maximum system efficiency and end-user comfort it is actually best to have someone in charge of pulling the mesh and tubing up to approximately half the mid-depth of the slab (except at any control joints, where it should remain at the bottom of the slab).
The deeper the tubing is, the greater the thermal resistance between it and the floor surface, requiring higher water temperature to maintain a given rate of heat transfer. The closer the tubing is to the bottom of the slab the more heat is lost to the underside of the floor - true (but to a lesser degree) even if there is styrofoam insulation underneath. And also, when the tubing is near the bottom of the slab more of the slab’s thermal mass is above the tubing, so it takes longer to heat the space. It also lengthens the cool down time. So you end up with heat fluctuations; less even heating.
Sounds like a good technical idea. If you’ve done it send a link. Almost impossible to lift these and stop at control joints. Hey but if you’ve done it I’d like to see your tricks.
@@hpain6261 Yes, that's the theory and the ideal. When I did mine 20 plus years ago, I had some 1 1/2 in spacers under the tubing and mesh. I think I just used little off-cuts of wood. On the main floor and upper floor, which were 3 inch pours of lightweight concrete gypcrete), there was no need for mesh and the tubing was attached directly to the subfloor. But for the basement floor (conventional concrete), the tubing ended up being a bit lower than ideal. Unfortunately, at that time I was not aware of the information that I posted above. But the system still works great anyway. I suppose it's a little slower to respond to changes, but it's in the basement and remains pretty steady. It's certainly nice to have a basement the same temperature as the rest of the house. Up here in Yukon, most friends that I visit have basements that are considerably cooler than the rest of the house in the winter. The only time my basement is cooler than the rest of the house is in the summer, which is ideal.😊
My house was already framed before the basement pour, so they had to use wheelbarrows. It didn't seem to be much problem with the mesh and tubing being 1 1/2 inches off the ground (insulation).
But you are right, it would be difficult to raise the mesh and tubing accurately during the pour. Kind of like pulling yourself up by your bootstraps.
Thanks Mike I always enjoy your helpful videos. A couple months back we did a radiant floor very similar to this on a fairly cold morning here on the North Oregon coast. We had hot water in the concrete and when it hit that tubing it swelled the tubing and all the pressures dropped and we thought we had a leak. They had water in all the tubes so they wouldn't float up and they had about 50 or 60 lb of air pressure on top of the water and the gauges all started droppling after we were pouring out and we thought we had punctured a tube but it was only the heat from the hot water concrete softening the tubes and they swelled a little bit and the pressure dropped. We got rid of all the water and put air in the tubes to look for any bubbles coming up thru the wet concrete but nothing came. Afte ar while the pressure stabilized and we were realized we're fine. Anyway was very stressful, wass about a 40-yard pour and we were wheeling the back part and we thought maybe the wheelbarrows had damaged a tube.
That's understandable. Glad you didn't have to fix anything
Wow
That’s scary
Sounds like a nightmare, glad you left this comment tho very helpful to know that could be a possibility
Hi,so who would be libel for the fault ? And who would fix it ?
Always loved the layout of all of the tubing before these types of pours, the concept has always been an impressive one to me.
They did a good job on this one
You and the crew even drew a crowd on this pour eh'...☺
Nice job! 20yrs slinging mud. You guys had easy money! Yes I poured in floor heat in garages, poll sheds and basement floors with structures on already. Using plywood runners. The trickiest ones we've done were using 2x6 (not allowed to set the wheelbarrow down or run off 2x6). Nice touch with the fiber mesh! Great job!!!
Thank you
That's how we do it too. Almost always the buildings are framed up and we have to wheel the back half. We usually put 2 by 10 or 2 x 12 down on top of the piping and then keep moving them. We did one in March we wheeled 17 yd with 3 wheelbarrows.
Here on the Oregon coast we wheeled a forklift ramp at a seafood processing plant 14 yards. You get a good rotation going with strong guys you don't have to shut the chute off.
THANK YOU....THANK YOU.....THANK YOU......(BUILDER 55+ YEARS)
Comments about pulling the mesh and tubing up are correct. Looks like a major f-up to leave the tubing on the bottom and the mesh not fully embedded in the concrete.
Hi Mike. I've been watching for years. It's 11/12/23 I'm hoping we can pour our foundation and radiant floor before the frost sets in in Massachusetts. Some exciting stuff going on in this vid.
Looks great. Nice job Mike. You have a great crew.
Thank you!
Thinking of doing a radiant floor in Ireland, watching your videos so I know how it's done right and that I know what to ask for when taking to contractors. Difference is we would need nearly 8" of polystyrene insulation to meet building regs.
Wow! That's crazy
@@MikeDayConcrete Ya the ground floor needs to be at least .15 u value can meet it with about 4" of PIR too.
How about stapling the tubing to the foam, then lay wire mesh on top to keep tube down? Then you get some strength from the mesh too.
That's what I tell them to do. Hardly anyone does it.
If the wire mesh is on top, some energy is wasted heating up the mesh. You want the heat rising up without obstruction.
@@inglouriousmofo - its ‘radiant’ heat. It wouldn’t matter where the mesh is. And even if it did heat the mesh, the mesh would then release that heat into the crete.
We staple the tubing down to the styrofoam and put the wire mesh on top so the wire becomes a functional member in the slab.
If you do the reinforcement above the pex with the pex stapled down, the rebar or mesh needs to be separated as water that could build up under the slab would have more of a chance to get to the metal.
Either the pex attached to the metal and both embedded in the slab or the reinforcement needs to be embedded.
Shane Bowen...I own Disciples Concrete in Helena Mt...we pour alotta Concrete on radiant heat set ups....we do it very similar to what I'm seeing here!! Good job guys Concrete is as easy OR as hard as you make it
Nice job!! Love your videos !!
Glad you like them!
Oh no!!! You walked under the shute, naughty!! Lol
Here we go again, another awesome job done. Thank 😊 for the video.
Spend all day pouring concrete, somehow end up watching concrete videos... 😱
Got to be something wrong with you, haha 😄
James your broken. I’ve been retired for 7 yrs now, from owning my own concrete construction company, and yep, watching concrete videos. 🤦♂️🤷🏼♂️
Seems like wire mesh is useless at the bottom of the poured concrete. Studies have been done on it. Which makes it strange to me that that’s all you do. But you have 40 years of doing it so. Weird.
easy peachy with this crew
Looks like a tough floor to get down with all those pipes.. Strategy is key
Black iron pipe is the way to go, the concrete will not eat up the pipe. 1/2 or 3/4 inch.
We do it but sometimes I see mesh on bottom and top
Have u ever tried putting expansion joint around the exterior foundation? It helps has a barrier between the floor and the exterior floor. It helps keep the floor warmer and not heating the exterior wall. He in Sioux falls SD it a city code for and in floor heated floors.
Have you ever used insulation board with a pre installed grid pattern to run the tubing in which makes it extremely nice pipe dont wiggle or move and it insures that the pipe is down under the slab and not into it. We use it here in ny. I think you can buy at home depot
Yes many times. I like regular Styrofoam better myself. Just preference
Pouring a 40 x60 barn floor tomorrow morning with radiant heat in it got to buggy it just bought 250 bucks in osb to drive on so I got 3 sheets haha another day at the office
Hey Mike I’m looking to pour an extension on my home. Just curious, what type of finish flooring do your clients mostly install up here in New England?
Thanks for the video you're great guys!
Thanks 😊
@Mike Day Concrete, Frost wall is 48" below, that you mentioned in the video. I get confused??? Some Websites says: Frost Lines (Inches) New Hampshire 60” Maine 74” ??? just gets confusing. Maybe that if its in general by its surrounding by a foundation ??? Looks like another beautiful pour Mike!!!
I hate it when the homeowner are there looking n in the way too
Doesn't bother me unless they want to talk.
Forsure man but keep up the good work
If you take pride in your work and do it right then you shouldn't dislike having the customer / homeowner observing.
I've been on both sides of the issue and not talking out my ass.
Super relevant! Thank you!
At 14:20 you mention that you can figure out exactly how much concrete to order using a lazer to grade and chalk lines. Can you cover how you do that process to calculate concrete volume?
We do but sometimes I see mesh on bottom and top
Nice, thanks.
I’m building a new house next year. Do you need foam board under a 9’ 6” basement floor? I’m gonna do the basement, garage floor, and driveway. Looking for information.
What if you put the tubing right over the foam, and run a light re-mesh over the top of the PEX tubing? Just pop the mesh up a little as the pour proceeds, so most of the mesh is supported on concrete instead of allowing the weight of the concrete to squish down the tubing.
I will be pouring a shop floor probably in Spring, and would like to know if anyone has tried that stacking yet...
Amazing work
Dragging the chute extension on the tubing is something I would never do !!! Common sense
I think most of people install that kind of system assume every thing new works better , which is not always the case. I do not see big of advantage unless red out of the radiators on the walls
Looks great! Have you used Haydite in concrete, lighter, stronger, handles higher heat and it insulates?
Question. Would I need a foundation poured before the slab is poured? I’m planning to build a metal structure workshop (woodworking), which will be attached to my existing 24’x24’ garage.
Why haven't you got your own small concrete pump Mike?
No need for one.
Thanks for the video
You're welcome!
I lost one loop in a 2 loop garage about ten years ago. It held pressure, but had a bad restriction. Can't say the floor guys crushed it or not (or of something is in the tube), but I've left all my floors with pressure in them ever since. In a hurry to move on, the one time we didn't pressurize.
You can't crush it. Takes over 160psi to pinch 1/2" pex. The foam it's on, is typically rated at 25-35 psi, so they'd push the tubing into the foam long before pinching the tube. If it's restricted, it's likely from foreign debries
@@danray104 oh I know that, I've always wondered if the neighborhood kids were checking out the project at the time and a pebble found a new place to live
It's rare to lose a circuit during a pour, but it can happen. Always a bummer, and rarely an easy fix
Wondering if people use tinted concrete with their radiant heat floors? Thank you for the information
Yes, sometimes.
Nice job, does the loose higher slump allow the stones to fall to the bottom of the concrete?
Because of the extreme winter temperatures we are forced to endure here in S. Florida, you can opt for a radiant heated floor system, if you want, or go with a forced air system. I can honestly say that I’ve never punctured one of the radiant heat tubes in any of the floors I’ve ever poured. 😉
Thanks for the video. I have a question. Does it make sense to install hydronic radiant floor if I am going to end up having a heat pump any ways for A/C in the summer?
I was planning on doing radiant for a client of mine, but I see that they have the creheat panels, two inch’s thick like the blue board except has groves to lay the pipe into.
Any thoughts on that style?
Also, my client told me, he planned to put 1/2 rebar 2 foot on center inside the concrete directly on top of my tubing. I don’t see why that necessary? It’s probably not good for the pipe either. Also, it is a slab on grade. I assume a frost wall, with a walk out 3/4 around the slab.
Hi Mike,
It looked to me like the rio was sitting flat on the styro and didn’t see your guys lifting it all, shouldn’t there be some bar chairs or something to suspend the rio above the styrofoam to give you some cover around the rio?
It was. I said why in the video
I'd love to do a radiant floor in the basement.
Can radiant be done under a shop floor where part of it will be poured to handle the weight of tractor trailers?
why is the radiant system not pressureise to show leaks ahead of time
Ever pour gypcrete?
i would rig up a way to pressurize the tubing and watch the pressure if it goes down bingo
It is pressurized already. Most do this but not all of them.
Great temwork ;))
Oh and Hi Tia!
Im thinking about doing radiant floor in house im going to build
Not sure about cost efficiency, but this is the best type of in home heating
@@danielchmiel4143 It costs more up front, but it's definitely more way more efficient heating if done right and the comfort factor is great. It's also silent - unlike forced air or even HW baseboard heaters.
Im always telling my customers to go for this on a new buid.for some reason they keep deciding on electric .
A lot do it here in Maine.
So how did the finish go?
Fast, done by noon.
I am looking for a contractor here in Waltham MAss who can place and finish a floor in my old barn. Do you know of anyone?
Dude in white shirt slacking. Last one to help pull the concrete.
Haha, he's a school teacher, summer help. Can't complain if someone's willing to work.
@@MikeDayConcrete ur right good attitude to have
Hey Mike, Would you know of anyone in the Upstate NY area that would be willing and talented enough to help me out with my self built radiant garage slab? 64x40 with drains has me nervous as it's the largest pour for me to date... that and it's just my father and myself..
I hope you found help. I’ve poured concrete for 25 yrs and will never dream of pouring this much with just one other guy 🤦♀️
@@tokouatonga7914 I had plenty of hands, but not many knew what to do with them… pump truck operator had someone willing to lend some experience. Luckily the weather made for slow setup.
Okay spoke to soon. Sorry
Smh 🤦♀️ lol 😂
Hey Mike, have you ever seen a Swedish warm floor installed? czcams.com/video/jyo7ABwV8AU/video.html