@stereomojo I am searching for a good 4 channel for 4 Rockford Fosgate 6"×9"s . Looking hard at the CT-80.4AB from CT sounds . Have you had any dealings with CT amps ? I heard pretty good things about them .
It's interesting that the Pac LC-1 is using a stereo linear taper potentiometer. Usually that puts most of the adjustability in the 8 to 10 o'clock position. I would have guessed it would use a logarithmic taper which more closely matches the way we hear sound. I'm also curious if the frequency response changes with the amplitude. Most people know that cheap line output converters reduce the voltage of a signal, but can lose some low frequency bass in the process. Your higher quality line out converters maintain a flat frequency response. You'd need an electrical RTA to see the signal. I've got one, but don't have a rca style level control. I might pick one up just so I could measure it. Cool video. 👍
On my new system I plan to swap lots of amplifiers out to test them, so I'm going to install a Wavtek BassRestor, which is like an Epicenter Micro, to act as a traditional bass knob that I can permanently mount up front. That way I'm not having to constantly run different wires and swap amplifier specific bass knobs out. Being a more sophisticated unit, it's frequency response should remain stable throughout the adjustability range.
200% i like those better, especially the dual knob that has frequency x-over knob as well. Informative video excellent presentation and appreciated as always ty sir
@stereomojo universal dual bass knob search will bring them up. Definitely not saying that the dual knob is better. Joking about the bass and crappie knobs as fish.
I noticed that on my NVX amp (NDA104) the included bass knob is very sensitive from the off position lets say about 7 o' clock to about 9/10 o' clock, then it doesn't do anything noticeable past about 11/12. I actually ended up buying this PAC LC-1 based on everyone's reccomendations and it's vastly superior as far as an actual range of adjustment goes. It's not perfect, there's kind of a dead zone until you get to about 11ish, but from 11-6 it has a very linear progression. I was dissapointed because the Rockford knob that I had flush mounted in my dash was super linear almost the entire way, and I wasn't able to fit (either) of the new bass knobs flush in that same spot again. I was very dissapointed with the NVX knob, but the amp I do like so far. I wish I would have bought one of yours instead though ugh!
@@stereomojo I'm using the KeyLOC for signal to the amp, which i've set at 6v and I have the gain on the amp turned all the way down to the 6v setting.
The sensitivity of the bass knob on the NVX is pretty typical of the cheaper class D clone style amps. The companies doing bespoke designs such as Rockford and Kicker put a lot more effort into designing their circuits so that the bass knob is more linear. What I typically do is I'll map out the resistance curve of the stock bass knob. Figure out where the minimum and maximum should be and if it's a linear or logarithmic taper. Then I'll buy a potentiometer in the range that I want and wire it to the amp. This way I can have better sensitivity with the knob. The best option for most people might be to buy an RCA style bass knob or else get a line out converter or epicenter device which does have a smooth, linear response. Then you can use any amp you want. 👍
@@ColeSextonIf I could see the circuit board design of the Pac knob I could probably tell you how to get rid of that dead spot. It may simply have too much resistance on the bottom end. Like zero resistance at the 6:00 position. You can typically add a resistor to raise the minimum resistance. This might prevent you from completely turning the signal off, but it will get rid of that dead zone.
Free education for the win! Thanks Joe😁
No problem, thanks Dustin!
What a great and informative video . I've said it before and will again , what a truly underrated channel . Keep up the amazing work . 👏 🔥
lol. I remember you saying that before. Thanks a bunch!
@stereomojo I am searching for a good 4 channel for 4 Rockford Fosgate 6"×9"s . Looking hard at the CT-80.4AB from CT sounds . Have you had any dealings with CT amps ? I heard pretty good things about them .
@@dirt_ripper8734 I’ve done the 1000.1D, but that’s the only one I’ve done. They seem like quality amps. That 80.4 should be a good one.
@@stereomojo Thanks
I pulled the trigger on the CT-80.4AB yesterday and receive it tomorrow. I'll let you know how it works out @stereomojo
Great video, very interesting. First one to do a vid on bass knobs as far as I've seen. 👍🏻
Thanks Chris!
Kickass! getting for mids and highs now, great video thanks.
Awesome! Thanks George!
The best bass knob you can have is the one you actually install. Great video
Thanks Marco!
I always thought there were filters in the bass knob that only limited the bass frequencies... very interesting
Thanks Triple J!
Thank you for this video
No problem Stephen! Thank you!
Great vid man!
Thanks Zac!
I reckon this could work for LOC's for those that want to limit loc's voltage.
That’s interesting. I’ve never thought about that. Most LOCs have a gain, but it’s possible that it might work in certain situations.
It's interesting that the Pac LC-1 is using a stereo linear taper potentiometer. Usually that puts most of the adjustability in the 8 to 10 o'clock position. I would have guessed it would use a logarithmic taper which more closely matches the way we hear sound.
I'm also curious if the frequency response changes with the amplitude.
Most people know that cheap line output converters reduce the voltage of a signal, but can lose some low frequency bass in the process. Your higher quality line out converters maintain a flat frequency response.
You'd need an electrical RTA to see the signal. I've got one, but don't have a rca style level control. I might pick one up just so I could measure it.
Cool video. 👍
On my new system I plan to swap lots of amplifiers out to test them, so I'm going to install a Wavtek BassRestor, which is like an Epicenter Micro, to act as a traditional bass knob that I can permanently mount up front. That way I'm not having to constantly run different wires and swap amplifier specific bass knobs out.
Being a more sophisticated unit, it's frequency response should remain stable throughout the adjustability range.
That would be cool to see on an RTA. Thanks Jason!
200% i like those better, especially the dual knob that has frequency x-over knob as well. Informative video excellent presentation and appreciated as always ty sir
Thanks cool! I don’t recon I’ve seen the x-over bass knobs.
@stereomojo universal dual bass knob search will bring them up.
Definitely not saying that the dual knob is better.
Joking about the bass and crappie knobs as fish.
I noticed that on my NVX amp (NDA104) the included bass knob is very sensitive from the off position lets say about 7 o' clock to about 9/10 o' clock, then it doesn't do anything noticeable past about 11/12. I actually ended up buying this PAC LC-1 based on everyone's reccomendations and it's vastly superior as far as an actual range of adjustment goes. It's not perfect, there's kind of a dead zone until you get to about 11ish, but from 11-6 it has a very linear progression. I was dissapointed because the Rockford knob that I had flush mounted in my dash was super linear almost the entire way, and I wasn't able to fit (either) of the new bass knobs flush in that same spot again. I was very dissapointed with the NVX knob, but the amp I do like so far. I wish I would have bought one of yours instead though ugh!
Hmmm, I can’t help but wonder where your gain is set. About position is your gain?
@@stereomojo I'm using the KeyLOC for signal to the amp, which i've set at 6v and I have the gain on the amp turned all the way down to the 6v setting.
The sensitivity of the bass knob on the NVX is pretty typical of the cheaper class D clone style amps.
The companies doing bespoke designs such as Rockford and Kicker put a lot more effort into designing their circuits so that the bass knob is more linear.
What I typically do is I'll map out the resistance curve of the stock bass knob. Figure out where the minimum and maximum should be and if it's a linear or logarithmic taper. Then I'll buy a potentiometer in the range that I want and wire it to the amp. This way I can have better sensitivity with the knob.
The best option for most people might be to buy an RCA style bass knob or else get a line out converter or epicenter device which does have a smooth, linear response. Then you can use any amp you want. 👍
@@JasonWW2000 that sounds pretty neat. I’d like to see that system the you put together for easily switching out amps
@@ColeSextonIf I could see the circuit board design of the Pac knob I could probably tell you how to get rid of that dead spot. It may simply have too much resistance on the bottom end. Like zero resistance at the 6:00 position. You can typically add a resistor to raise the minimum resistance. This might prevent you from completely turning the signal off, but it will get rid of that dead zone.
Just like all bass knobs,there's some crappie one's out there too 😂
Yeah, for sure