2nd Gen Mazda 3 Dashcam Installation (VIOFO A129 Plus Duo)
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- čas přidán 25. 04. 2021
- Looking how to install a hard-wired dashcam in your 2nd gen Mazda 3? We'll go over the installation of a dual-channel (front and rear) camera system in both a sedan and hatchback using the VIOFO A129 Plus Duo. If you have a different camera, the installation should still be very similar.
Index:
-0:00: Intro
-0:45 VIOFO A129 Plus Duo Contents
-2:19 Front Camera Placement
-6:11 Routing Camera Cables
-9:35 Front Fusebox Access
-10:54 Connecting the Hardwire Kit
-14:13 Connecting to the Fuses
-16:09 Hardwire Power Cutoff
-17:34 Routing the Rear Camera Wiring
-18:19 Sedan Rear Roof Wiring and Camera Placement
-19:18 Hatchback Rear Roof Wiring
-20:48 Routing Wiring into the Hatch
-24:28 Reinstalling Rear Hatch Panels
-28:16 Rear Camera Placement
-28:51 Securing All Rear Hatch Panels
-29:08 Some Camera Settings Setup
-30:02 Closing Remarks
*Affiliated Links:
-VIOFO A129 Pro Duo (4K): blackboxmycar.com/d042b
-VIOFO A129 Plus Duo (2K): blackboxmycar.com/e289d
-VIOFO A129 Duo (1080p): blackboxmycar.com/e06b5
-VIOFO Hardwire Kit: blackboxmycar.com/4d9ec
-Samsung 128GB Micro-SD Card: amzn.to/3sVkZWn
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DISCLOSURE:
Some of the product links on this page are Amazon/BlackBoxMyCar affiliated so I earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I love CZcams, you can always find the most niche, specific content you're looking for. Thank you!!
I followed your instructions and everything is working. Thank you for an excellent video.
This is very helpful for my Mazda CX-5, which has a similar configuration. The CX5 is just taller.
Great video, thank you very much! I installed a different reverse camera mirror and I don't think I would be able to do it without your video!
Bro, incredible video. I'm about to hardwire the same camera on my Mazda 6 and this tutorial could not have been discovered at a better time.
Nice work man. Great job explaining everything, and great video work too. You’ve really taken the intimidation out of it for me.
A useful note for anyone following this guide, at 15:30, each fuse slot has a side the power comes from and a side the power flows to, so you need to to connect your fuse tap the right way around. If the Battery (constant) live is the wrong way around the dashcam won't work, if the Acc (switched) live is the wrong way around the dashcam won't go into parking mode. To check your wiring, probe both fuses on your fuse taps, both fuses on the always-live should have power all of the time, and both fuses on the switched live should have power with ignition on 👍
Thanks for the video, I have a similar (newer) car and will be fitting this same dashcam, I got a few hints and helpful info 😎👍
That is absolutely right. It is best to use a test lamp with the original fuse removed to check which pin of the original fuse holder has the voltage on it. You insert the adapter so that the output cable is on the opposite side of this pin.
and what you definitely shouldn't do as shown:
The original fuse goes in the lower slot (here 20/25A), the fuse for the camera goes in the upper slot and it must NOT be the same size as the originals, but 5A to a maximum of 7.5A. The cables are not designed for currents of 20 or 25A and may melt or burn.
@@robby-cgn It doesn't make any difference that is significant. If you hook it up one way, the output of the add-a-fuse will be a fused version of the main fuse input (car hot). Hook it up the other way and it will be a fused version of the main fuse output (fused car hot). If you plug it into a slot without a fuse, it will matter.
@@L-36 that is described exactly right. If you connect it the wrong way round (your first option) and the original fuse is damaged, then the additional consumer won't work either. When troubleshooting, it gets tricky if you don't pay attention to both fuses.
If you want that, it doesn't matter which way you mount the holder. If you don't want that and you want the additional consumer to work independently (which is actually always the case), you have to make sure that the input for the additional consumer is always on the input side of the original holder.
@@robby-cgn I did one up and one down because they were adjacent fuses and that is the only way they would fit. I guess that means I need three fuses working for the dashcam to work instead of two. It is a risk I am willing to take. I think it draws about 1/2 and amp worst case and the main fuses are 15 amps so should not be an issue.
@@L-36 You can of course mount them however you like if that's not a problem for you. I just want to make other users aware that it does make a difference and how to do it correctly. Using a 15 amp fuse when only a few amps are needed is also wrong. Yes it works also with a 50 Amp Fuse. But the fuse does NOT protect the device but the cables and these thin cables are definitely not designed for 15 amps or more and in the worst case the insulation can start to burn in the event of a short circuit.
Finally decided to pull the trigger, got the same cameras and got a 2nd gen Mazda 3. Super cool I have this amazing step by step guide to help with the hardwire install. Thank you!
i got this camera set for my Juke, i really appreciate your video - great camera angles, great explanation and you actually got me to buy the hard-wire kit + add-a-fuse thingies because i do need the 24/7 recording. 10/10!
Best installation video I’ve seen so far
Honestly, the best video I've seen about installing these cameras, thank you very much!
My hatchback isn't a Mazda 2 but I found your video super clear and useful. A lot of work for the hatchback but what a clean result. Thank you !
Thanks for the video. That was one of the most comprehensive explanations I have seen so far.
Best vid I've seen. I've got a 2nd Gen 3 sedan. Looks simple to install. Thanks 👍
This is the most amazing video I've ever seen, I'm just about to buy the exact same camera and I just got my first Mazda 3. Awesome job bro, thanks so much.
Great instruction from the real sifu. Thank you very much! Subscribed! Love from Malaysia!
Thanks for the very clear and easy to understand guide. I just got the A129 Plus Duo and I drive a Mazda 3, so your guide is EXACTLY what I need.
I wish I was that lucky! I need one for a 2023 Audi A6. Which also has 3 different fuse boxes all in various spots in the car lol
Thank you, this was really helpful for installing in my 8th gen civic.
Nice video bro, like the way on how you explain everything in details. I’m gonna buy one and use your video as a guide, keep up the good work. Subscribed 👍
Thanks!
Thank for detailed and clear instructions.
Very good video on getting the rear cam in a hatchback. I just bought a new CR-V and this video is by far the best on the internet for the purpose I'm interested in. Thank you !
Congrats on your new ride!
Outstanding video & very informative!
You are a pro! Thanks for the detailed explanation!
So well explained. I’m itching to try this on my Mazda 2 2010 model……once I buy a dash cam. I just wanted to watch an instructional video first before I got a cam. Looks like I picked the right one, straight off the mark. Thank you.
You’ll really help me install on my CX3. Thanks a bunch
Really fantastic video!
This was really helpful. I have the Mazda 3 (2nd gen) Hatchback, and seeing you run the wires was what I really needed. I have a different dashcam, but the principles are the same.
Congrats on your install! Glad it was helpful!
Great video. I'm currently using an A119 V3 for the front and a separate Street Guardian for the rear (my Rav4 has a power port in the rear cargo area). The A129 Duo will be my next cam once the setup I have finally dies.
Great instructional mate! The only pointer from me would be that it is never advisable to connect a live line first, before GND one is connected. When connecting the ACC line you actually connected it before GND wire to the grounding lug.
Also it’s wired over the airbag within the A frame on the drivers upper left hand side. It needs to be wired under the airbag as not to disrupt the release of the airbag!
@@lungbuttah3968 can you explain how to wire under the airbag
@@banpeikun this video will explain: czcams.com/video/uZp95NbNlmM/video.htmlsi=ULTqPvnPkBpbQndN
Essentially you just need to take that whole side panel off and guide the wire under the airbag. The airbag is the long white folded object along the panel frame , very hard to miss. Good luck to you.
Before installing the add a fuse, you really should use a meter to check which prong is supplying the juice and which prong just goes back to the device that needs the power. This video will do a great job of explaining this. czcams.com/video/K2iKXj82354/video.html I don't know if this vehicle has side curtain air bags like the CX5, but if it does you really don't want to put stuff in the headliner (at least not on the ends) because that's where the air bag is going to blow out of. Best to run it down the middle of the headliner or down the floor boards. I wouldn't want to put that adhesive over a defroster line. From the outside view it was right over a line. I've been watching/reading a few installs today trying to amass all the knowledge I can before doing this myself.
Great instructional video! Thanks.
This man loves his Mazdas
Excellent instruction!
Your video was very helpful
great instructions!
Thank you, great video
Great video and helpful for me in many ways but I want to point out that you put the wire over the airbag within the A frame on the drivers left side. I’ve seen others highly recommend wiring underneath the airbag as not to restrict the safety feature. Thanks for your video !
Great job!
What a nice video. Thank you
Great video! Thanks!!!
I install this same camera in my 2023 Chevy Silverado Duramax 3500 I love it.
really appreciate this!
What an absolute legend
Vibration-induced wire failure is a big deal on both aircraft and cars. It's why car makers have so many supports on the harnesses - to keep them from abrading against anything. It seems like the coiled up wire above the headliner could vibrate and possibly wearing through. I wonder if it might be better to start the rear wiring at the rear camera end and running it forward. Whatever cable is left over can be coiled up near the fuse box where it's more accessible - though vibration could be an issue there as well!
Very good video.
Ok, so I watched your installation and that gave me courage to install a front camera in a family members Mazda CX-3. Very easy, so thank you.
Emboldened, I then set about a front/rear installation in my Audi. Much, much more difficult. The A pillar panels were so hard to work with and I couldn't even remove the weather strip. But I got there in the end so saved myself some money, so thanks again for your excellent instructions.
Glad you were able to work through the difficulties the Audi had! I wonder if that was more similar to my BMW guide.
Good job done bro.With the viofo hardwire kit, it's better to plug the power cable in the side usb port, or parking mode would not work.
Nice work ! I had done mine the same way although I had to use a OBDII connector on my 2021 CX30.
No acc in cabin only under hood either that or use annoying lighter socket. My 2018 CX5 was even easier than the cx30 and 3’s. Ya covered all the basis good work! I spray alcohol in the wire harness and it slides like butter then evaporates.
That's a good trick using a bit of rubbing alcohol to lubricate the wire! I'll have to try that.
Excellent
Hey, you could reverse one of the USB cables. It seems like a 90 degree connector would be more useful on the back camera for clearance. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks buddy, great video and good info! Now I am going to try it on my new Audi A6! 😅 Hope I don't break any expensive trim! lol Also my A6 has 3 fuse boxes... Oh well I'll figure it out. Just need to be careful not to tap into an important fuse(s), if you trip a fuse with the dash cam if it's faulty or for some other reason, and it's connected to your power steering, ABS, Traction Control, Main ECU, etc. that can be bad real quick!
On my Audi Q5 I used an electricians plastic flat cable pusher / puller to pull the rear camera cable through the roof from the A pillar to the back, it took me only 3 mins to do it , much quicker than feeding it around the doors or floor , if you can get the cable puller to work.
Very well described & not rushed installation, thank you!
If I may, I have a question:
Considering this video is two years old, would you still buy a VIOFO Dash-cam, and if so, which VIOFO Dash-cam would you buy today! I’m asking because there’s a lot of bad reviews on Amazon of this product and it’s hard to know who to believe!
THANKS!
Well Done
This was really well done! Tip for anyone using the linked hardwire kit from blackboxmycar- sand the sides of the fuses down with sand paper. The plastic part on the sides of the add-a-fuses was too thick to fit into my fuse box so i called the company and they said to sand them down. Same with the low-profile mini fuses that come in the kit. Other than that, love the video!
Make sure with both cameras that they look out through regions of the screens that the wipers sweep.
My exact car. Now I need a new sticky pad for the front camera.
I don't think I have heard him mention which way the add-a-fuse connector should go.
Very helpful guide. Well done and thank you... but .. Why not just do things instead of going ahead and doing them.. i.e. now we will remove the plug... instead of now we will go ahead and remove the plug.
Great Video, but I do have a concern. I know you have been running this for at least two years already but my concern is with the orientation of your fuse taps. Since one is facing up and the other is facing down there is potential for one of your circuits to be be overloaded. If the orientation is incorrect then the power will run up the blade into the bottom circuit, cross over to the other side and then power the extra circuit before going to the camera. in other words the bottom circuit fuse will be protecting both loads which might be more than that original fuse was intended for. However if you power the blade furthest from the output, that has a common rail to the bottom and top fuse and then you have created two individual loads. Sorry if this difficult to understand. I wish I could attach a drawing.
Yes, for one of the fuse taps the dash cam load will be in series with the original fuse, while the other will be completely parallel. Dashcams don't really use much power though, and I pick fuses that should have plenty of spare capacity to tap into.
That’s so mf wack that the ads a fuse kit is sold separately
So the fuzes you added were 2 5 amps and 2 15 amps?
Hi excellent instruction. I'm going to hardwire these cameras on a 2016 cx5. Do you think the cables will be long enough? If not how can I I get longer cables? Thanks for your time.
The fuse box on your vehicle should be in a similar area (lower left side kick panel) so the wires will be plenty long.
3:45 it takes about 13 to 15 seconds to start recording. I got one and came here to see if it's the same for other people. Are you still having that problem? Manufacturer says it should boot up immediately. But I already returned one and the second has the same issue.
Great video! How do we know which fuses to pull out to insert the hardware kit to?
You need a multimeter,set it to "DC voltage" black to the ground bolt and red to the little metal dots you see over the fuses. It must show 12 volts or above.
If a fuse shows zero,it's one of the accessories power,and it will work only when the ignition is on.
For mazda3 2010 its MİCRO FUSE TYPE...in video its also MİCRO TYPE FUSE ...i have the same car juat went outside and checked. Because in the video it says low profile mini not sure it means the micro type..juat wanted to let you know ...tnx for the review
For your sedan, do you find that the rear camera affects your AM radio reception? I have the same vehicle and I use the A119V2 in the rear and I found that if I installed it directly at the back in the middle, this would cause my radio to be all static for AM. Apparently this is due to the sedan's radio antenna being laid out on the rear glass and power going to the dash cam causes interference with the AM radio reception. Because of this, I've had to install my rear A119V2 cam off to the side on the rear.
Curious if you get any radio interference for your sedan with the way you've installed your rear cam?
I don't know if you fixed it, but you could buy a clip on noise filter and attach your wire to it
Nice video, thanks, question I have read that the fuse tap has to go in a certain way, the left side of the tap which is hot has to go into the hot side of the fuse socket, is this true confused on this point.?
The fuse tap doesn't HAVE to go in a certain way. If it gets put in "reversed" then the new tap will be in series with the original fuse, rather than being in parallel with it.
Why does the instructions say to attach clips and slide mount horizontally?
I'm having issues getting the wire through for my rear camera via the rubber tubing on my Mazda 3 hatch. Will try again tomorrow.
It can be pretty difficult with how tight it is in there. This is why I recommend something more substantial to pull the USB connector through with like a rod.
You can also try bending the USB back on itself forming a "U" with the wire and pulling from the "U." It's a bit more "streamline" shaped that way.
Hey man thank you for the video, it really helped me because I am waiting for my 70mai dashcam. I only have one question, I only wish for the camera to work when I start the car, I don’t want to use the red wire that you used. Is the installation the same? Only I dont connect the red wire?
I believe that dashcam comes with a hardware kit too. It probably has a menu setting enabling or disabling parking mode so I'd tell it to turn off with the car that way.
@@FaRKle0079 It didn't come with hardwire kit. I will have to buy one third party like you did, can you help me with my question?
excellent video... very concise.... good job... thank you....
Thanks for the vid! If my dashcam doesn’t have a parking mode, is it ok if I only plug in the accessory power so that it doesn’t drain my battery? I’d assume that it would still work fine, but would only turn on when the car was on.
Yes, if you only want the camera to be on during driving, and no parking mode you can just hook it up to the accessory power.
@@FaRKle0079 thank you!
So, configuration through your phone is not an option? Great video, thanks!
You can configure this via the VIOFO app on your phone. www.viofo.com/en/content/13-app
I have mazda axela hybird.2013.pls tell how to lock car when l m driving
What value fuses did you pair with on the ACC and VCC adapters? Did you match the value of the fuse that you added onto? For example, when tapping onto a 15 A fuse, do you always need to pair it with a 15 A fuse in the second slot?
You don't need to use the same size fuse that was originally in the slot since the new fuse is only supplying the dash cam system. A 5A fuse will be plenty unless you're connecting to a backup battery (like Cellink), in which case check the charging rate on the battery (they can be 7 or 10A I believe).
@@FaRKle0079 Worked great, thanks!
What fuse capacity did you use for the dash cam on the red and yellow wire respectively? I’m assuming they are less than the fuses you took out
A dual channel dashcam,need a 5 Amp fuse. Remember that one slot is for the dashcam (the top one),and the other is for the fuse you are removing.
I wired the same dashcam the same way especially the rear camera but wasn't sure if it safe and it's not obstructing the side curtain airbags.
Airbags will blast through any wires around there. They use a small explosive charge to deploy.
@@FaRKle0079 i know and my concern is if the same force will blast the cable into the occupants faces.
@@EVAddicted I think that's really unlikely since there's not a ton of free length of the cable where it'd break at the A-pillar. The wire would have to be pulled out from along the front of the headliner a considerable amount before it'd be able to reach the occupant, and then would have to change directions to swing backwards towards the rear of the car. The front airbags and seat belt would be trying to keep the occupant away from the front of the car where wire could be.
Adding anchoring (like stick on clips) to the windshield/headliner interface to hold the wire would make it even less likely if you're really worried about it.
The same mazda 3 impressi🎉ve and the same acc and battery fuse into same fusetaps socket but it says please connecr thecharge on 70mai dash cam ..whats wrong pls help??!!❤
Correct me if I am wrong but the way you ran the wires through the A piler, it looked to me that you obstructed you air bag.
He did ! Very bad practice. If the airbag is triggered it's going to rip the cable out at best, at worst you'll get a cable whipped in to your face at great speed, or get the camera itself flying round the car! Put the cable behind the airbag by removing the A pillar cover.
Ok but how do you watch the footage? Where’s the ap?
1) does it come with the voltage cutoff module included, 2) does it include the add a fuse 3) does it come with the extra fuses 4) Did you just discard the cigarette adapter cable??
1) The voltage cutoff module comes with the hardwire kit, which is purchased separately/extra add on.
2/3) Add-a-fuses are also a separate purchase, sometimes they're sold bare, other times they have fuses. I'd check Amazon for what you need.
4) I typically just put the 12V cables back in the box and store it with the other manuals/unused accessories.
After 5 months, does this dashcam still work well ? No issues ?
Yup, still going strong! It also helped my relative settle a claim in the past month when she got rear ended!
what are the benefits of hardwiring it? and whats the other alternative of installing it?
Hardwire provides a hidden/clean installation and allows you to control the power source behavior, versus the exposed wire for the 12V socket, and whatever behavior for it the car is designed to do.
where do u buy those low style auto fuses?
They have them at your local auto store and amazon. They're called "low profile mini" auto fuses.
Can an additional cabin cam can be added to this camera since it only comes with rear cam not the insider cabin cam ?
The A129 only offers up to two channels. You can put the rear camera in a position to film the interior if you want. There are 3-channel cams like the A139 which have a dedicated interior camera along with front and rear.
@@FaRKle0079 much appreciated sir,I think putting this rear cam to cover cabin will not do it cause I doubt if it has a night vision actually it’s my bad that I didn’t pop the question in a way I should I need a camera for Cabin for ride share purpose and I think getting a dedicated 3 channel cam will be the safe bet but when I look at 3 ch there are none that offer authentic 4k out of main camera
@@valorous123 I would say "4k" is a "nice to have" rather than a hard requirement. 2k is plenty good for a front cam, so don't let that scare you away from a dedicated 3ch system.
@@FaRKle0079 thank you ever so much this is something I wasn’t thinking about now I for sure will get the 3 ch and thanks again for great advice
Bless 🫡
Excellent information from this video. For added info please watch my videos, here's the link:
Part I - VIOFO A129 Plus Duo Dual Channel Dash Installation
czcams.com/video/YJ6FyopiyUs/video.html
Part II - Using the VIOFO App on A129 Plus Duo Dual Channel Dash
czcams.com/video/npTCpZ8VssQ/video.html
VIOFO A139 3 Channel Dash Cam Installation
czcams.com/video/nOoVQjBCw5s/video.html
Isn't one of those "Add-a-Fuse" connections going to make both fuses available to both circuits? I'm assuming that the same set of terminals for both connections will be the hot/source and load respectively.
I.E. the side of the Add-a-fuse where the wire comes out is the load side.
You installed one with the wire going up and one with the wire going down. This leads me to believe that for one of them, your camera circuit is not really fused.
You may want to circle back and check by removing the fuse for the camera hardwire kit and see if you still have voltage on the wire before you proceed.
It's important to check your "add-a-fuse" with no fuse to make sure your load is fused. Given you are running these cables adjacent to sheet metal, you don't want a worn wire to short to ground without fused protection.
I came here to say the same thing. This is the bad thing about the "add-a-fuse" products. They make it very easy to install a circuit that might look like it is fused correctly, but in fact is not. The average DIYer woudn't know how to check. As you said, removing the fuse and verifying that the circuit is dead is the most reliable way.
Dang I watched this engrossed as if I'm not going to just pay someone else to do it for me... Altho I guess I'll be able to see if they did it right? Toyota Yaris are similar right?
Haha yup, at the very least you'll know what the installer is doing and know if it's done well. Most cars are pretty darn similar, so it should translate well to your Yaris.
Very bad practice to install the cable on top of the air bag on the A pillar . If the airbag is triggered it's going to rip the cable out at best, at worst you'll get a cable whipped in to your face or eyes at great speed, or get the camera itself flying round the car! Put the cable behind the airbag by removing the A pillar cover.
Out of interest, it looks like your rear cam is placed on top of your demisting element. Have you noticed any issue when turning this on? I assume there's been no issue with the adhesive over the element?
There have been no issues with having the adhesive patch over one of the defrosting elements. I've had placements like that on multiple vehicles.
Great. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm looking at getting a dual cam, possibly the Pro Duo and that was one of my concerns as the elements on my rear window would make cam placement awkward if they were to be an issue.
Stupid question for everyone who has hardwired the dashcam: does the camera also draw power when you turn off the parking surveillance? In numerous tutorials I have seen that for the power supply you have to connect a cable/adapter with a fuse to the permanent plus and to the ignition plus (and also ground). But I don't need the parking surveillance, hence the question. I'm still a novice driver and have no idea about electrics (yet) and don't want to shoot my car up, so I'd appreciate an answer :D
The camera should turn off if you disable parking mode. If you don't want parking mode you can also just connect the ACC and BATT wires to the same fuse that only turns on with the car.
@@FaRKle0079 Thanks for the fast response! So just for understanding: then I could also order a slightly different hardwire-kit (than the recommended VIOFO-Kit) with only 1 adapter for the fuses and plug the adapter into a spot where there is only currency when the ignition is on?
@@mike_romeo_lima Yes you can use a "two wire" hardwire kit that has one wire going to the fuse and another going to ground.
@@FaRKle0079 Thank you so much buddy and greetings from Germany 🇩🇪!
M3 don’t have OBD2 ports?
It does. Viofo doesn't have an OBD2 power cable for their cameras.
I heard that viofo cancelled the parking mode in all dash cams, is that true?
I can't say I've seen that anywhere.
That's not true. I have the A129 Plus Duo as well and I am using parking mode.
@@mpcp27 does still work well ?
@@ISSO8BOITE .. Yeah it seems to work okay..I am using the auto detection (motion detection) on low sensitivity, with a cutoff at 4 hours, and voltage cutoff at 12.4V. I have to play around with the sensitivity and check the footage, because a couple times I came back and it didn't pick up my approach..I dunt know if I just came in on an angle that it couldn't pick me up. But other than that it seems to be fine.
Has anybody tried a 512 Gb microsd? Does it support it?
No, A129Plus can only support 256GB at the most.
Huge no no. Don’t route the cable across the front of the airbag. You must pop the a pillar cover and go behind the bag.
I’m doing exactly what he says but it just keep taking pictures instead of opening the menu telling me I have to stop recording first. HOW!!!!!
Hit the "rec" button once to stop recording, then hitting the "menu" button should take you to the menu.
@@FaRKle0079 thank you
17:41 airballlll
Lol. Bro, nobody ever mentions where they are sourcing the add a fuse, low profile fuses. Any info?
@@NiNE0s They are "mini low-profile" fuse taps and I found one at an auto parts store in my city, but did have to buy a small box of spare fuses separately (double check these are also 'mini low-profile'!). Also saw them on amazon, they often come in packs with extra fuses included, I just try to avoid amazon when possible.
How long will it take him to find out that park mode doesn't work if you connect power via the gps? And again, no word of warning about taking into account the coverage of the windscreen wipers. Some cars won't be a problem. But some cars have a dead zone behind the read mirror. Many cars won't just let you grab the plastic covering around the fuse box and rip it off "nicely". Instead, start your wiring from the fuse box and feed the cable with the usb end up the side and across the windscreen towards the dashcam. Once you reach the dashcam, work back towards the fuse box, gathering any excess cable to hide in the fuse box area. Also, no mention of fuses having a "hot" side. If you put the fuse in wrong, your device will work UNTIL the other fuse pops. Once you remove the fuse, test both sides of the fuse holder. Only one side is powered. the other side is cold. If he does get into a crash, what happens with the air bags having cables running Infront of them? Having an air bag go off in your face is bad enough but adding a cable whipping about isn't going to help your face.....
This was about the Mazda3, you should look up videos for the make and generation of the car you want to install for best results
@芽瑠 It's always great if you find a video about the same car as you have, but a lot of the points about airbag safety and hot side of the fuse holders still applies to any vehicle.
One of your Fuse Splitters are facing wrong direction and is always hot even without Fuse.
If top FUSE clamp is +12v the splitters should face to the left side. Cause the Bottom Leg of the splitter is the outgoing connection to your Dashcam, if you turn them wrong direction the top leg direct connection to your dashcam is directly connected to your battery without Fuse between.
You're right that the fuse tap is "backwards" however the implication stated of that isn't correct. If you look at a circuit diagram of the fuse tap (tinyurl.com/4mshc62f), putting the tap in "backwards" just means that the lower fuse has to carry the additional current of the upper fuse/dashcam. So you're making the dashcam in series with the original fuse instead of in parallel. If you're not exceeding the fuse rating with that and causing it to break, then it's not really an issue.