Chev Cruze thermostat failed again, but why ?
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- čas přidán 7. 08. 2024
- Chev Cruze thermostat failed again, but why ?
10 months ago I replaced a failed thermostat on this 2013 Chevrolet Cruze.
At the time it had clearly failed open as the engine had no heat and had the typical fault codes. AC Off due to high engine temp.
At the time I replaced the thermostat and 2 sensors. One in the water outlet valve and one at the radiator.
Problem solved..... Unfortunately It has failed again, let's take a look and see why !!!
Turns out it has failed again but I can't blame the thermostat. It failed because of a product I used !!!! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great video brotha! Happy New Years!!!!!
Man that oil filter location is wild!
Thanks for watching Brotha !!
Nice repair
Have a great New Years Stephan 🥳 Enjoyed the video and hoping 2024 brings you good things 🔧🔩
Happy New Year to you and your family Zane !
ANOTHER FINE VIDEO STEPHAN.
Ill always quote the line used by James Dohan aka Chief Engineer Leutenent Commander Montgomery Scott on Star Trek !!!
" The more complicated they make the plumbing... the easier it is to stop it up."
My experience also has been... that goop is a last resort. It works and will seal the cracks ALL the cracks 😮
Yup. It's good stuff lol 😆😆😆
Nice video Stephen - enjoy the rest of the week my friend 😊
Thank you Jerry !
Instant Fix! It does look like that stuff was blocking the Thermostat up, should be all AOK now!!
Yes. All good now. Thanks Jason.
That stuff is good in old cars when you can put it directly in the rad and have the water pump chew it up. Going in the small reservoir is obviously not good. It just trickled down the tube and plugged things up
Nooice! 😎 STOC trouble shooting begins with visual observation, olfactory investigation and the half splitting.GIGO Garbage In Garbage Out. Thank you for making this video to help others do what you do so that we can do what needs to be done. Best wishes and warmest regards! 😎 d
Thanks Dan ! I appreciate it
There are re-engineered metal parts that don't break and mess up as often. My mechanic replaced mine with the metal kind as well as the water outlet housing with a metal replacement when he did my water pump. The old plastic engine coolant water outlet was failing and the cause of all the crap that destroyed my water pump.
Yes I have heard of the metal ones. Thanks for your feedback
What about the much smaller passages in your radiator?
Rad seems fine. It is 10 yrs old though.
Nice check engine light!
Hard to get rid of that one 😞
Most of those head gasket sealants always recommend to remove the thermostat so it doesn't clog it like what happened to you - you get what you pay for with that stuff I use Blue Devil fantasticbut it's expensive it's probably three times more than what you paid for that stuff,you don't even have to remove the thermostat.Good Job.
In older cars you could put it in the rad and the pump would chew it up. Now it goes in through the expansion tank and kind of sits there. Back to normal now.
Happy New Year. Looks nasty under there.
Happy New year !!! All fixed now. For now lol
How about pulling codes first?
There are codes but nothing to do with cooling system. Did that already in a previous vid. Changed both sensors.
Not worried about the o2 sensor it's 10 yrs old and 200k
dont ever put anything in the coolant system other than antifreeze and distilled water. regular tap water has minerals in it that will coat the insides of the cooling system with a white coating that increases in thickness with time
Yes. No more !
Damn man right tough luck
All good now.
Gates makes great stuff
Yes. Was nothing wrong with the other one. Was the goop I put in that messed it up
Just had to do this job on my 08 3.6L jeep. Great engine, but those dodge Chrysler engineers put it in the dumbest location.
I've been looking at Jeeps actually
This dude doesn’t ever need to make any more videos 😂😂😂😂
The Dexcool has solidified due to air in the cooling system!!!
It's the sealer I put in as a precaution
Don’t need sealer with dexcool. It’s designed to plug small leaks.
@@Sir_Loin_of_Steak Thanks for your feedback ! Interesting I was not aware of this 👍
It gels when exposed to air.
Used to flush and replace with old style green coolant. Ended up with lots of little leaks and sometimes an unsolvable electrolysis problem. Aluminum radiator and heater cores would sometimes last only months.
Then it was back to dexcool, always making sure it was properly bled and radiator was ALWAYS full!
Really your going to guess what is wrong without reading the check engine light? NEVER put stop leak an ANY vehicle. I think the temp gauge is the sensor on the transmission side.
Aftermarket parts are junk!!
The thermostat is stuck open, only buy OEM!
I think you are somewhat incorrect. My thermostat was jammed open because of the product I put in. The thermostat is designed to fail open so the engine doesn t overheat.
My new thermostat was shut. I tried blowing air through it and could not. Telling me it's designed shut. Once the engine gets warm, it expands and opens letting coolant flow to the radiator.
Any thoughts ? Do I have this wrong ??
@@pstreetgarage7304
I haven't watched the full video but yes any deposits in the system can make the valve stuck and difficult to move, but the way these usually fail is when the seal inside it fails allowing the wax inside to seep out of place + water gets inside causing the lubrication to be removed making it difficult for the thermostat to open or even close.
And yes when the engine is cold the thermostat is supposed to stay closed to allow the engine to reach its desired operating temperature, once the coolant reaches a certain temperature the wax inside the thermostat heats up and expands forcing the valve to open and allowing the coolant to pass through the radiator to cool it down and cool down the engine, then once it's cold enough, the wax inside also cools and then the spring closes the valve to maintain the operating temperature, this does the same thing but it also has a heater core that can heat the wax at any time depending on the engine load to open the water flow even if it doesn't reach the required temperature.
In my experience, only OEM will last and don't buy the aluminum ones, they have a really bad thermostat + heater that always fail..
@@GadGetHackss The plastic one should last the life of the car. It's 10 yrs old with 200 k. The original lasted 10 yrs. The aftermarket one failed but it was my fault. Should be good to go now. 🤞
@@GadGetHackss Thanks for your feedback.
Yyyyikes! 😢 that thermostat.