My money is still with Pittsburgh brand. For the money you pay who cares it brakes or bends. You can always run down to your local Harbor Freight and replace it. Plus I don't think I would ever put that kind of torque on my wrench but it's nice to know when it will give. Bear, how come Harbor Freight don't put out Harbor Freight t-shirts or hats, I would gladly wear their merchandise. Great videos, keep up the good work. You'll get to a million subscribers soon enough!
Thinman True.Wright caters to a different market than automotive. Great tools but not much of an impact among The automotive trade. Near imposssible to find anywhere.
Craig Jorgensen They have a online catalog that’s easy to use. Get the part # then call Harry Epstein’s. They have a web site where you can make a purchase or to get there number. I’m old school so I always call. Nice people= very helpful
Used to work on medium-speed marine diesels, back in my youth. Hand-tools were all Proto, and they were awesome. Rugged, good balance, and didn't cut into your hand, like Snap-on. Some years down the road, we switched to Wright, and I can honestly say I preferred the Wrights. Toughest wrenches I've ever used. Love 'em!
Their customer service is unbeatable! Been using them for 2 years now and no matter what happens, i always have a new tool within 3 days. They're gonna be a top brand VERY soon!
I was in a pinch some months ago, and needed some 3/8 metric sockets. Ordered a deep and shallow Tekton sets. Thoroughly impressed with them. Would buy again.
You will love them and customer service is the best. I was doubtful when I first started putting together a 2nd tool chest for my other shop but could't be happier. You will get a lot of flack from the Snap-On, Proto, Mac, SK fan boys, but you will be happy and if anyone is building an extensive set of tools they will have enough for a nice vacation left over, lol.
Ya know, turning your hold around to where your turning towards the stand will provide better leverage & reduce the amount of giddy-up you have to use...
Not to mention he is shaking his hand and saying ouch every time because common sense didn’t tell him to grab a thick towel to absorb some of the rigidity of the wrenches.
Sorry Bear, but there's no way that you could put 1191 ft. lbs. torque on a wrench. Either there is a decimal missing (119.1) or it's registering in inch pounds.
Regardless of which spanner used, no one would have been able to break or bend any of them if used properly. I feel the Tekton is very well rounded. Bends with a decent max load, and the open end did really well to.
Sorry Red but this torture test is very misleading. With that Quinn torque adaptor it is only able to peak at around 180 FT Pounds. How did you miss the decimal point? You are making people think these wrenches are 10 times stronger then they really are. The Wright was not 1528 FT pounds it is only 152.8 Foot Pounds. I love your channel and videos but this one left me shaking my head.
You can generate 900 foot lbs with your hand? Complete opposite impression: Correctly hardened steel snaps, rather than bends. To *science* it speaks to the hardness and WEAR resistance of the tools. The ones that bent will wear faster, and will spread the jaws more. Its not an opinion, its physics.
Snap-off There are many ways of hardening. Case hardened parts can retain a lot of ductility. And when was the last time you wore out a combination wrench? That is pretty funny.
@@LTVoyager Anyone with any experience with older *real* "chinesium" wrenches has seen a 12 point box end strip out on a hardened fastener. Case hardening is for knives or other items you WANT to be able to withstand bending. You don't want wrenches bending. The wright was made correctly and had the correct failure mode. The funny part is "hand in a cast". Hex bits and torx bits are made of s2 steel, even harder, even more brittle, for the purpose. . . . of wear resistance, Even properly hardened CR-V or CR-MO will *wear* down at the points of those bits.
Snap-off You can believe what you want, but brittle failures are almost always bad. A ductile failure is almost always preferred, particularly when a human body part is what is applying the force. This is why reinforced concrete has both minimum and maximum amounts of rebar. In the early days, people figured more rebar was better. Then after a few brittle failures of reinforced concrete beams, it was decided that having some ductility and warning of impending failure was a much better deal. Same with wrenches. Once the wrench has exceeded the maximum torque it is designed to apply, a ductile failure is by far the preferred way to fail during over stress.
@@LTVoyager Ok you can believe you're saving yourself from non-existent injury, and I'll believe wrench failure injuries are never a failure on the part of the wrench but rather a failure of understanding on the part of the operator. Breaking is never a concern for me, because all my 10mm combination wrench needs are far less than 900 ft lbs.
I use Wright in a heavy use industrial/ag repair setting and they are very tough wrenches!! Also made in the USA and at a decent price point, way cheaper than tool truck.
I have some Wright, very well made. I'm also an S-K fan. I found a SK ratchet on the road, called them up, got a repair kit in 3 days and in 10 minutes, I had a working ratchet. No questions asked.
I have a Sunnex set that I keep in my car. Your opinion of them seems the same as mine. This test did confirm some of my choices though. If you want top quality Tiawan, buy Tekton. If you want top quality US, buy Wright. Great job on the test.
Back in college, I needed a distributor wrench and just took a cheap 9/16 and bent over the combo end with a ball peen hammer. I did that right up against the curb in the parking lot. Worked great.
Thanks Jeff. I am amazed at the quality at all the price points. I remember breaking wrenches instead of bolts with cheap tools. Everyone of those would twist a bolt off long before even the open end failed.
I'd like to see a wider availability of 6 point box wrenches. They work better on rounded nuts and they can be thinner to fit in tight spaces - such as removing a nut from a carburetor mounting stud.
Would have been interesting to see how a Snap On 6 point would have done-(if they have that size)-although I think they are slightly thicker at the corners than their 12 points----yes they do have 10 mm.(found mine!) (of course 12 point are more convenient and usually are plenty capable in the real world unless you are dealing with RUST or already rounded nut
@oShane Kasper they aren’t that bad, honestly should be the standard for garage mechanics and DIY mechanics. But as heavy equipment mechanic, they don’t hold up. So professionally, I wouldn’t recommend HF tools.
To be fair if you look at the sk wrench at the end of the video it’s BARELY bent, I think the ups guy let go of it a little sooner than our host would have, who would only stop after they were very bent. I think he would have wrung higher numbers out of it, in comparison to the other wrenches.
I work on steam boilers. Many items gall and stick hard to each other. I find I reach for a pipe way too often. This was really helpful. I agree about the bend vs breaking. So far tekton has been great so far. Very glad work supplied them. With the warranty I'm not afraid to make it work.
@@snap-off5383 heat and a lot of force. Impact drivers or you drill and tap them clean. End of the day, if it jams , force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing any way.
You can put 300-400 ft/lbs (pound feet) of torque on 10mm wrench by hand? I can't imagine a 10mm wrench withstanding more than 150 ft/lbs. Am I missing something here? A decimal perhaps?
Nice job! Personally I'd much rather have a wrench that bent rather than snapped. A wrench that snaps is a good way to hurt yourself. It's also interesting how the numbers clustered for failure. I'm wondering if that's reflective of the actual OEM. As far as Sunnex goes, the only reputation that I'm aware of is for their impact sockets
I would never put anything ever even close to this but Wright did great in this test. Glad I have spent my money wisely. Only gripe I have is on the open ends, they need to clean up the edges a bit. They are razor sharp
I think I'm more impressed at how well the Titan bit socket held up more than anything. You can get those get cheap. I actually have a set and have not broken any yet
You know that the Quinn meter has a decimal point and a max accuracy is 147.6 ft. lbs but it will peak around 185 lb-ft if I recall from my testing. So when you said 749 pounds that’s really supposed to be only 74.9 ft-lbs
Well as I said I didn't have faith in the overall accuracy of the stork meter but instead in its repeatability that's making it useful as a comparison tool even if the foot pound rating this off it's usually off across the board at the same amount
The Den of Tools Totally under stand but 749 is not seven hundred forty nine. It’s really 74.9 which is all I’m say. You keep say numbers in the hundreds when they are tens and thousands when they are really hundreds. That meter is consistent just won’t do the high numbers you said in the video.
ClientGraphics You sure that’s right? In the beginning he was pushing down by hand with most of his weight and getting 300+. So you’re saying his weight pushing down on a 5 inch leaver only created 30lb of torque??? Not bashing. Just seems like 300lbs, not 30lbs, sounds correct in that scenario.
Ehhh.... bending is a sign of softer steel. The problem is that softer steel is far more prone to wear and tear and over time running the risk of rounding bolts/nuts.
I was thinking the exact same thing. As he said "If you are reaching for a cheater bar your reaching for the wrong tool". So any of these wrenches would have held up to normal pressure by hand, however over time the softer steel would have worn away faster like you said.
@@BromeGrass Who the hell said anything about "toughness"??? Since you apparently want to get pedantic here, allow me.... Steel alloys contain iron and other metals that create interstitial point defects in the metal, which are basically breaks in the formation of the crystal lattice structure; these create shear points which raise the strength of the alloy. The more of these (ala "high" carbon steel vs "mild" carbon steel), the harder and stronger the alloy becomes. This is desirable to a point, at which ductility and toughness become a concern for practical use. So, while the metal gets stronger, you lose ductility and toughness; and run the risk of a brittle fracture. You can compare the point of failure using whats known as Youngs Modulus and following the modulus of elasticity... ...so because these cheaper tools are typically made with lower grade steels; they are more ductile and tough, but are far more prone to undergoing plastic deformation, which can deform and ruin the tool; causing it to operate outside its defined operating range; this is why monkey wrenches are often misused and round over bolts. So yes, these cheaper tools are certainly more "tough"; they have a much lower elastic limit in tradeoff. That better mate? That what youre going for? I'd go into temperatures effect on youngs modulus but that seems a *bit* out of the scope here, dont ya think? Cheers ;)
@@JgHaverty yes, smaller carbon atoms fill the spaces between the bulk element atoms to create an alloy stiffer than the bulk atoms alone while generally decreasing the amount of strain energy that can be absorbed by the material. If it were me I wouldn’t want the “strongest” tool in the tool bin, because I’d rather have a 20% lower yield strength if it means I am avoiding sudden brittle failure and a potential for injury.
@@BromeGrass ...no.... I literally said it in the previous post. When steel is heated to a certain point it becomes eutectic, and the carbon atoms are free to create interstitial defects in the crystal lattice of the steel; they dont "fill tiny gaps". Thats just a completely inaccurate way to look at that. When you quench the steel after heating, the lattice freezes and the carbon atoms get locked in place. This DOESNT make it unable to take more straining force; this means when it does strain it has less ductility so wont undergo plastic deformation like a lower quality steel will when its stressed over its elasticity point. Saying you want "lower yield strength" shows that you have a really incomplete understanding of this. Furthermore, when these cheaper tools do get strained at much lower forces; that strain causes the metal to work harden; so the tensile strength of them winds up going down leading to that "dangerous brittle fracture" you seem to be so worried about.... Anyway,. Im an engineer dude... Im sure you're used to people "google fighting", but this stuff is ABSOLUTELY my wheel house lol. Pulling an arbitrary "20%" out of your butt is also silly. All that aside, the only tools you're EVER gonna "brittle fracture" are long handed tools youre going to have a lot of leverage on, and .... if youre able to manage to "hurt yourself" like that, then... maybe dont use tools...... In memory, the only tools I've snapped were cheap (and small) crap sockets that werent hardened properly; or the steel wasnt made right. Either way.
What would a grade 8 bolt fail at with that size head? Good point about breaking vs, bending. UPS, priceless. Husky is on my list. I hope you have thick fur Mr. Bear! I think you might need it.
grade 8 is for SAE bolts. I just did the calculation. An M6 bolt has a 10mm head and a dry non-plated Class 12.9 M6 bolt should let go at 22 ft-lbs lol XD
@@ClientGraphics Did you post for an M10 bolt? M10 doesn't have 10mm head. I just did a quick search and first 3 charts were www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm/ www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx Failure calculated out to about 170% of suggested torque. Those torques are way high for little M6 bolt.
Seriously though, those smaller size wrenches standing up to that much torque is impressive in and of itself. I was expecting failure around the 600 - 700 number. Also that Titan hex standing up and laughing at all those wrenches, that was something else in and of itself. Great video.
None of these made it to 600 to 700 ft lbs. There is a decimal point missing. The numbers that say 672 was actually 67.2 ft lbs. If anyone here thinks a 10 mm wrench made it to 600 ft lbs they don't know much about being a mechanic.
In 1976 I was a service teck for a national mfg. As such overhauling customers equipt. was always a challange! I was stuck on one job in particular where I had to remove a internal safety relief valve and I only had a 1/2 inch drive Craftsman breaker bar it was a 24"! the only socket available anywhere near was a 1 3/4" by 3/4 drive. I had to use it with a 3/4" x 1/2" reducer and the 1/2" x 24" Craftsman breaker bar,and a 6' pipe on the end and 2 people at once trying to take out this s/r valve ! The valve didnt come out but we did bend the Craftsmen breaker bar 8" out of shape before the 1/2" drive shattered like a .457 magnum gun shot. Say what you will about Craftsman tools, but after that I swore by Craftsman Tools , they were tough!
Looks like the real winner is the HF Jaw Horse for taking the same punishment as the wrenches and still holding. Just a heads up on the Kobalt wrenches. They lowered the price of the 11 piece set to $20. I picked up a couple sets to carry in my tractor toolbox. Didn't look to close till I was walking out of the store and one of the sets had rust covering a couple wrenches. Took it right back in and they let me pick a different set. I had to dig through all they had to find some that didn't have rust. I certainly don't know how they stored them before me buying them but it doesn't look to promising for their chrome plating.
I have to say those wrenches all performed well past the breaking strength for a 10mm bolt/ My problem with harbor freight Wrenches is they slip it almost as if the chinese manufacturers use the dies to long before theyre replaced
ANSI specs on 10mm are not in the hundreds of foot pounds. Even a grade 12.9 M10 is around 95 foot pounds at 85% proof load so there is simply no way you achieved the numbers you stated. They are simply not achievable.
I think you're right, someone above said there should be a decimal point in there, so the Wright should be 153 lb-ft instead of 1528 lb-ft . . . which is awesome for a 10mm wrench.
Yes you can't achieve that much torque through a small wrench, or apply it with a two foot piece of pipe. I was wondering if they were reporting inch-pounds, but moving the decimal point would be in a similar ballpark.
Yes this was a useless test! If you're trying to break lug nuts with a wrench. Then you need to go buy more tools and you deserve your knuckles to be all beat up. Sorry I'm done
Old craftsman screwdrivers are the toughest I've ever used. I abused my dad's set back in the 80s when I was a kid and they Are still good to this day.
I've only broken one brand of wrench before, it was an old HarborFreight brand. I used the open end to try to undo a brake line at a master cylinder, and one of the jaws just fell off with very little effort. That was back when HF was selling tools for the price of a soda can. Now HF is more expensive than before, but the quality of their tools are much better than before as well.
The Quinn Torque meter you have max's out at 147.6 lbs ft . I have never come across a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter that could get any where near 1000 lbsft of torque load..
Another useful review! Hey, remember when you gave the pre-release quick review of the Hercules miter saw stand? Finally got mine today! Its IS well made.. Highly recommended. My 40 year old Makita miter saw has never been on a nicer stand. It stows and rolls easily, 4th leg adjusts to eliminate wobble. Side arms go in and out easily, and hold square.
The Den of Tools Even skeptical husband is very impressed with the new high grade stuff at HF. I was told they are only getting 2 or 3 of these miter saw stands at a time and they sell out the day, or day after, they arrive... (and the other models of stands go unsold. Our store has sold zero of the new budget stand... zero!) We lucked out, had the money available and just drove over to buy it... It was the last one in the store, .. part of a batch having just arrived earlier in the day.
I would like to know what you were using as a cheater bar and how long it was to be able to apply 1500+ pound feet of torque. I used a 1/2" drive socket and a 25" breaker bar to apply torque to remove my RV lug nuts. I have to almost stand on it to remove them and I weigh in at 225+ .
Harold Dossett The Quinn meter is rated for a Torque range of 29.5 to 147.6 ft. lbs. Notice how I have decimal points in my numbers so does that meter so all the numbers need to be divided by 10 to be accurate. I’ve used a torque meter thousands of times. I’m even doing a NIST Calibration lab tour and test next week that I hope to do video on!
Hey, did this on the video but the accuracy of that meter and high pressure is suspect however it is accurately inaccurate is it makes sense in other words it's inaccurate across-the-board thus making it still viable as a comparison tool
The sunnex impact socket kits from amazon are amazing, our new apprentice set for our apprentice has sunnex wrenches... and yes they’re junk a few broken in a month, and they just feel like cheap junk. The warranty is a joke as well. Good job 🐻 Also, if you can put 1400ish ft.lbs by hand on a regular/short pattern wrench you have missed your calling in life. Someone in the circus/ strong man competition world will probably hand you a nice contract deal.
ElmoZ71 LS1 I have the sunnex impact socket set too and they’re great. They’re the same as Matco’s ADV impact sockets. Their air hammer is also one of matco’s older discontinued air hammers and it hits hard!
Reckless entertainment I forgot we also use the sunnex 1 inch drive sockets on class 8 truck lugnuts and never an issue. The Matco dealer in my area has pretty much been run out of town for swapping Matco stuff for gearwrench and other shady things. Ignersoll rand is my go to for air tools,
Are they different countries of origin? Do you happen to know where the wrenches are made? I'm pretty sure the sockets are made in taiwan in the "blue point" factory.
Sunex hand tools have a nice polished chrome finish, unfortunately they are useless JUNK. Bought a cheap set of Sunex box wrenches new in package. I didn't keep the receipt and didn't register the tools because who is going to bother with going through that kind of trouble for a cheap set of box wrenches? First time I attempted to use the wrenches the 13mm was just not getting any bite on the bolt. I took a good look at it only to discover that the the 13 mm ring HAD NO TEETH! It was just a round hole. No, the points weren't sheared off, there weren't any. To the credit of Sunex, the chrome inside the ring was perfect. This wrench-like thing was very nice to look at, but I couldn't actually use it to...you know...loosen or tighten nuts 'n bolts. I also couldn't get it replaced because I didn't have the receipt and didn't register the tools for warranty service. I took all 4 and tossed them, even the 'good' ones seems to have a lot of slop when on the bolt. Sunex, please just go away.
I'm surprised the HF Pittsburgh did as well as it did bending at 982. I think bending was better than cracking or breaking, the ones that bent the metal had a little more give.
I gotta add something: I was born in the late 40s. Began my life in the post WWII era. When I was a kid, the legend: "made in Japan," meant cheap. Japanese cars were a joke and Korean cars weren't even considered a possibility. Japanese and Korean auto makers have mostly overtaken U.S. made cars when it comes to quality. I have read comments about Chinese tools and some negative comments about HFRT products, mention made in China. Why do Americans insist upon the belief that something made in America is of far better quality than things made overseas? Sure, some imports are of poor quality, but so are some of America's exports. I read a comment, recently, from a person who said "Professionals don't buy from Harbor Freight." In the first place, that isn't true and, in the second, I will explain I was a vehicle (automotive and heavy equipment) when I was a young man. I purchased and used tools from all of the well known manufacturers and spent a good amount on Snap-On. I recently purchased a set of HFRT's ratcheting combination wrenches. I will state unequivocally, the feel of those wrenches is every bit as good as any hand wrench I have used; they fit the fastener (bolt or nut) precisely and the ratchets operate smoothly without slipping--and for tool geeks, they are pleasing to look at. I suggest if more "professionals" dropped their pretension and give some of those Chinese made tools a try, the tide would change. After all, Chinese workers are men and women just like we are and are just as concerned about creating good products as we are (if they don't, no one will buy). And.... don't forget, the railroads in the west would not have been built when they were if it weren't for imported (and mistreated) Chinese workers. Summation: before condemning a product, try using it.
For those of you looking for wrenches to use all day every day, I'd eyeball the broken ones over the bent ones. You're not going to put 900 ft lbs on them and snap them, and they obviously have harder steel, so they'll wear less. Guaranteed you take that Titan hex to *ITS* failure mode, it will be a break, not a bend.
It’s hard to beat the value and performance of a Taiwanese made tool these days. I personally love my Carlyle sockets and wrenches and they haven’t disappointed me yet.
I can still remember when I was about 16-17 years old working at a tire place. They had real auto mechanics in other bays doing real repairs. These are mechanics with their own massive tool chests and thousands of dollars worth of personal tools. I remember walking over to ask a mechanic - Angel if I could use his breaker bar as some lug nuts were jammed on. The reason I asked was due to some old man as he was leaving with his new tires, tested his lug nuts by hand. He said the last time he was there the lug nuts were over torqued and he couldn't get them off roadside when he got a flat. He asked me to check them and his little 10-12" lug nut wrench wouldn't budge them. We had this real shit head, Cole, that worked there and he would use the impact gun full open if there was any notation of "hand torque" on the work order. Apparently he was teaching this picky customers some kind of lesson...LOL The Mechanic Angel said I could borrow his SnapOn breaker bar...but none of those other "monkeys" that I worked with could touch it. I assured him, I would be the one using it. I walked out and got on the verrrrrry end of a really long breaker bar. I gave it all I had like I was doing a dead lift and clink-clank....the SnapOn on breaker bar was....BROKEN. I was scared to tell Angel I broke his bar. But when I did, he was OK with it, as when the Snap On tool truck guy showed up at lunch time, he got a brand new one. THAT is when I realized buying a reputable tool is key. If and when they break, you get a new one....no questions/hassles. None of these wrenches in your video will ever break if used properly. But IF they did...I want the one that has no hassle replacement.
@@jhitt79 Maybe you are right. The SnapOn truck drove up and just exchanged it on the spot. I just bought some Klein screwdrivers and the cheap ass toys that they are my slotted screwdriver twisted like a pretzel. I was just turning a screw with one hand and not that much pressure. I don't even think they are hardened steel. They won't take it back and asked me to go back to where I bought it. The home depot clerk must have been a slow adult. I couldn't get anywhere with help there. I just threw the whole set in the garbage and will never buy Klein again.
For long term regular use wouldn’t the wrenches that break be better because the 12 point box end tolerance would stay the same for a longer period of time because the metal is harder and wouldn’t mushroom as much ?
@Jomama None will break under -Normal Use- They all come with a Warning to "Never use a Cheater Pipe" I have put Wrenches to the test, & if I have an Inkling it's pushed to the limit (trust me I don't want to lose an Eye either) I switch to a Socket & Johnson Bar or Heat the thing up & try again with the Wrench, but not lean on a Pipe. (-Snap- followed by me crashing into something not my idea of fun at work either) Broken a # of Nut & Bolt Heads in the past but only broke 1 Socket & widened Wrench Jaws.
The Way I see it is the best bang for your buck is between Craftsman & Carlyle. Craftsman Broke a tooth but did not bend and Carlyle bent, but not as bad as the rest. Even Harbor Freight seemed to outperform some of the other name brands! Now that's saying something. Tolerance Vs. Brut Strength! Great Video Really happy you took my suggestion into consideration. I thought this was a far better test than the open end. The open end test was good but the box end was better! Cheers Brother Bear & Thanks for doing this video! I almost bought SK. Glad I waited. Cheers!
I was the test lab rat at a company that made recliner mechanisms, for automotive seating. I tortured and broke many different makes and models of these things, but they were all mounted in fixtures designed to replicate seat frames. They were pulled hydraulically, in the ultimate static strength machine. In line with the roller chain used, was a load cell, calibrated regularly by an outside load cell testing service. The results were fairly and consistently tested. From that point of view, I see this series of tests as very basic. The failure modes were believable, but the numbers are kinda on the crude side. If I were to do this testing, it would have involved a hydraulic method and a studier fixture setup. A real proper series of tests would involve 3 samples of each wrench, to determine consistency (a 30 sample each would yield crunchable data, to get statistical capabilities). As I mentioned, this lab was well equipped, so I didn't expect certifiable number results from these tests, but the failure modes were usable data. BTW, the best failure mode would be in the bending. The sudden break is called catastrophic failure. Those that broke are knuckle busters, and that Craftsman stripping teeth is the worst. This indicates a material that is brittle, and the heat treat is a factor. Yes I'm a smartass. BUWAHAHA. I am Doctor Destructo. "You make em I break em" was my saying back in those days.
Next week we call the tool trucks for Snap-On, MAC and Matco and then start the Warranty Clock (it may be a calendar) and track the time required for a Warranty Replacement!
Mike Frech then you’d be doing it a lot depending on which field you work in. I’m in a diesel shop so my Pittsburgh’s didn’t last long although I was hoping they’d last longer. Switched to tekton and they’ve been great
Good test and review overall. I wanted to see difference between Pittsburgh and Husky as lowest price sets. This test exactly what I was looking for! I prefer bending instead of breaking as well agree with your point of view.
Great video, my take on sk: they're for engineers not mechanics. Anything over 300 is an abuse situation IMO, and there are times when that's just what happens. But sk appears to be for the professional who works with immaculate machinery. For your viewers, remember it's a sample size of 1 and what isn't tested here is the value of the relationship the company develops with their buyers.
This was a pretty cool video and comparison of failures. It’s cool to see what a tool can handle. My wrench of choice is the wright grip wrench. I have them. I love them. They are the best wrenches ever made. However, in ALL the wrenches defense none of these results are actually plausible in real life situations so the bargain brands are still ok to use. It’s more of ball swinging thing that my wrench is the toughest and it made me smile so thanks!! 😂😂😂
The winner is... none of them -You might as well test which is best for writing your name in the sand. If you're putting that much stress on a wrench, like you said, you're using the wrong tool. This does not test the longevity of a tool. To test longevity you need to measure repeated routine pressure, not pressure exceeding what they are meant to do till they break. When they test a car for longevity they do not floor it until something breaks. They run it on a dyno at normal running speeds. Impact gun is the way to go, breaker bar in pinch. The test makes for silly fun, I guess, but that's about it. I'm sure manufacturers have ways of testing the life of wrenches under normal use, particularly where lifetime warranties are given. I don't know. Sorry if my comment is a little mean. It wasn't intentional.
I'm not sure how "unacceptable" any of these forces were as a 6 inch lever requires twice the linear force of the lb/ ft torque measure. Even measured in the 700 lb range, that's over 1400 lbs of required linear force. There are some strong techs out there, but I doubt any are that strong. I have a feeling that a decimal was misplaced, or the readout was set to in/lbs. If in in/lbs, 750 in/lbs is about 62.5 ft/lbs, which would require 125 lbs of linear force. Still quite a lot. Very, very bruised palms before broken knuckles.
What I take away from this test is, value is not determined by cost. Tool manufacturers have caught up to the “Tool Truck” quality at a fraction of the cost. Me personally I love Gearwrench wrenches and they have never let me down. Broke 1 out of 130-150 in 10 years. Recently broke a ratcheting 19mm, called 800#, got replacement in mail 4 days later. Tekton has proven their quality, affordability and unmatched guarantee rendering tool trucks obsolete. There is absolutely no argument out there to buy off a tool truck unless it’s your personal preference.
Interesting info and thanks for taking the time but any of these wrenches will do its job fine without bending or breaking when used the intended way, without a pipe. Your test does show overall tool quality though when pushed to the limits which tells something about the manufacturer.
Agree 100%, I 've busted my knuckles bad using my older gearwrench open ends and hated them. I ended up getting a set of Snapon flank drive plus and it made a world of difference, I'm getting the Proto Anti slip ratchet wrenches next and giving the gearwrench away.
I buy Kobalt tools from Lowes. Lowes stores are usually well stocked, so getting a replacement socket or wrench isn't a problem. Husky from HD aren't as good, and most HD crap is only sold in sets. So getting a replacement for something lost is difficult. 25 years ago, back when I had my repair shop, my employees used to waste their money on the tool trucks. I always bought Sears Craftsman back when they were still American made. I never saw any value in SnapOn, Mac or even SK.
Red, forgive me if I have the size of the tools wrong, I think they are 10mm wrenches aren’t they? In which case this is total BS and they all win really. A 10mm hex is generally on an M6 bolt and an M6 even in the highest grades only have a max tightening force of about 20ft/lbs, that means the bolt will break eons before the wrench ever does. Now the torque required to break a high grade M6 is greater than 20 but nowhere near what these wrenches are damaged at, furthermore no one in their right mind would put that much force into an M6. When you feel it yielding it’s time to try something different like some heat or penetrating oil, you learn that pretty quick after using drills and ez-outs and taps and so on for hours when a cooler head would have had it out in a few minutes without breaking it using a different tactic. I think the original video was better because how they feel, look and effect your wallet is most important.
I have bent wrenches, that I have used well beyond that abuse point. You said it well, you know when you are stressing a tool beyond it's limits. This was great for showing max torque to bend a good wrench, and which ones gave up sooner. Or just broke. All in all, I will take my bent wrenches to the next job! Thanks for the vid!
Wright is the winner in my eyes even though it broke it took a ton of force to do it and it means it has a harder temper and it won’t wear out as fast and no man by hand will ever be able to put that much force without a heavy multiplier.
MAGADETH I guess you can say that for all the tools in this test. The tester is a strong guy and he only managed about 400 lbs of pressure by his hands. But if you have to pick a winner, Wright is superior!
@@mr.bosstang8363 It wasn't 400 ft lbs there is a decimal point missing from the results so 400 is actually 40.0. It is even on the display but bears don't know how to read.
A few takeaways- for the price im pleasantly surprised pitsburge did so well! I loved husky but ive fallen out of love with their tools after them bending on the job. Good to know its not just a fluke. I've always liked craftsman and seeing theyre middle of the road makes sense. Im horribly disappointed snap on did so well because im not blessed enough to afford them 🤣 i do like that if/when they break or bend, i can just take it to the truck outside and get a new one.
I think the best way to look at a test like this is to look for the outliers. I don't really see an outright winner, but there certainly are some losers. Sunnex and Husky for example. I was considering buying some sunnex tools on Prime day via Amazon. Kind of glad I didn't now.
I'm not sure if it's been said, but keep in mind that ALL of these wrenches held up well past their intended torque range.. At the amount of torque being applied here, you wouldn't and shouldn't be using a box end wrench. I would like to see this test repeated though using a second box end onto the open end of these and see how well THAT holds up.. We've all done it, don't judge me.
I continue to be impressed by Texton! Top quality with pricing around the Harbor Freight level. Great warranty from what I’ve been told. Watch for big things from Texton!
@@denoftools overt bias to what? The fact he tests at a much standard then your own set up? He removes as many variables as possible. And still shows that the tool truck stuff is worth it if you want to spend the money for quality and a lifetime of use.
@@Evanm1136 Except the tool truck stuff isn't. He is one of the few channels still trying to carry their water. Most truly independent testing has shown time and again that tool trucks loose to brands that cost half of what they charge. Don't look at how he tests, look at what he tests. He did a comparison of a standard snap-on versus a flex head Kobalt. Then when the flex head failed at a lower pressure, as any flex head would, he declared SnapOn the winner? I'm sorry but if you can't see the overt bias in something like that then you're just a fanboy.
Awesome vid, I own the wrights and ill say I love them. Super comfy thick beam well made USA wrench’s. Kudos to that damn titan hex socket I think I’m gonna but some now lol. Can’t believe that thing held up through all that abuse amazing I tell ya.
It’s funny i bent a Snap-on 1/2 in combo in the same way the Husky with my bear hands in my opinion it way just a lemon but when the guy who owned the wrench brought it back to the Snap-on guy he almost didn’t warranty it
I've heard stories like that. On the other hand, I once found a 3/8" Snap-on ratchet in the middle of the street, no insides present at all, just the lollipop. I wasn't working as a tech at the time, but at an office next door to a Volvo dealership. Well, next time the Snap-on truck rolled around to the dealership I brought out my lollipop and the guy replaced the innards for free no questions asked.
A test showing which brand wrench fits tightest on a nut or bolt with both the open end and box end. I find a lot of cheaper wrenches tend to damage or round nuts/bolts off
N_ R Wright impact sockets are the toughest I’ve ever used. They’re priced great for USA made sockets because they don’t have the costs associated with advertising and dealers.
Mac tools has a surprisingly large following. But I was raised by a mechanic, practically living in a shop. My father went through the Mac phase. I'm now 41 years old and anytime I hear the words "broken wrench", I immediately have flashbacks of some of the many snapped ends with the Mac logo embossed onto the sides of the handles. To this day, my father still wouldn't own a Mac tool, even if given it for free.
Dang. MAC has always been my dream tool. I love the old boxy design from the 80s/90s. Tekton with the points incentive is starting to become my fav now. You really can’t expect any of them to hold up against a bear with a cheater. Awesome video.
The newer mac wrenches with the precision torque basically flank drive plus design and the I beam grip area are 10x better than the knuckle saver he tested no one I've ever known who bought the knuckle savers liked them but the precision torques are amazing yet quite expensive in my opinion I don't care what torque the wrench fails at I care more about at what torque does the open end fail or spread. On a small side note you can also get the precision torque style wrenches from proto as well same exact wrenches, same thing with the newer ratcheting one I cant remember what they are called but still about the same price either way.
Good work Jeff!! All these fanboys claiming not to be fanboys. Get a life guys, your choice is not the best for everyone. Plenty of good tools out there to serve all purposes.
I agree - I'd rather have a wrench bend than break, although breaking at 1500... If you haven't loosened the nut by that point, it's either not a nut or it's welded on. Can we trust that the UPS guy has a perfectly calibrated arm? The number for his wrench is suspect, in my mind.
Those harbor freight and kobalt are good value because in real world situations no man is putting that much stress on any wrench unless you want rounded bolts. But great test brother
How did your tool of choice hold up?
are you still impressed with the wrightgrip? and would you recommend it?
Better than your palm did 😆
My money is still with Pittsburgh brand. For the money you pay who cares it brakes or bends. You can always run down to your local Harbor Freight and replace it. Plus I don't think I would ever put that kind of torque on my wrench but it's nice to know when it will give. Bear, how come Harbor Freight don't put out Harbor Freight t-shirts or hats, I would gladly wear their merchandise. Great videos, keep up the good work. You'll get to a million subscribers soon enough!
@@xephael3485 - That was "paw." ; )
shoot me a email it's in my description
Wright has a great reputation in mining and heavy machinery work. Well deserved.
Thinman I have a set
It's rewarding to buy American
Thinman True.Wright caters to a different market than automotive. Great tools but not much of an impact among
The automotive trade. Near imposssible to find anywhere.
@@craigjorgensen4637 I buy them on eBay. Often they are gov't surplus.
Craig Jorgensen
They have a online catalog that’s easy to use. Get the part # then call Harry Epstein’s. They have a web site where you can make a purchase or to get there number. I’m old school so I always call. Nice people= very helpful
Thinman Their impact sockets are USA made and tougher than a woodpecker’s lips. Priced about the same as the Taiwan stuff flooding the market.
I have to say the real winner was the Titan hex socket that took all that abuse.
True that
also very impressed with the torque adapter! what brand is that??
True story there along with the adapters.
The Den of Tools kkkk
This was the reply I came to make lol! Maybe get a Titan wrench vs Titan hex key!
Used to work on medium-speed marine diesels, back in my youth. Hand-tools were all Proto, and they were awesome. Rugged, good balance, and didn't cut into your hand, like Snap-on. Some years down the road, we switched to Wright, and I can honestly say I preferred the Wrights. Toughest wrenches I've ever used. Love 'em!
I was going to say the results of this test are invalid. but then I saw the camo crocks... tests legit
Cami Crocs are mandated by the International Bureau of Weights and Measures as required footwear by certified testing officials.
Ordered my first Tekton tools this week. Can’t wait to get my hands on them. I talked to them at the
PRI 2019 show and was very impressed.
Their customer service is unbeatable! Been using them for 2 years now and no matter what happens, i always have a new tool within 3 days. They're gonna be a top brand VERY soon!
I was in a pinch some months ago, and needed some 3/8 metric sockets. Ordered a deep and shallow Tekton sets. Thoroughly impressed with them. Would buy again.
The Tekton screwdrivers are USA made and have a very useful triangular ergo grip. Very nice value.
I started buying Tekton tools - I'm addicted now!
You will love them and customer service is the best. I was doubtful when I first started putting together a 2nd tool chest for my other shop but could't be happier. You will get a lot of flack from the Snap-On, Proto, Mac, SK fan boys, but you will be happy and if anyone is building an extensive set of tools they will have enough for a nice vacation left over, lol.
Ya know, turning your hold around to where your turning towards the stand will provide better leverage & reduce the amount of giddy-up you have to use...
That's all I think through this whole thing. It was driving me crazy watching the back leg lift up.
Youd think it would be common sense :p
Not to mention he is shaking his hand and saying ouch every time because common sense didn’t tell him to grab a thick towel to absorb some of the rigidity of the wrenches.
Sorry Bear, but there's no way that you could put 1191 ft. lbs. torque on a wrench. Either there is a decimal missing (119.1) or it's registering in inch pounds.
You didn't know the bear used to compete in strongman challenges? He rolls cars for fun! 🤣
As I stated I didn't have much faith in the accuracy but in repeatability it was accurate enough for comparison testing
Agreed, the numbers are off by at least a factor of 10. Can't apply that much bending with a two foot pipe either.
@@denoftools non accurate repeatability, sounds accurate smfh..
Remember what Adam Savage said: "The difference between screwing around and science is writing stuff down!" LOLOL!
Not when you write down the wrong numbers. 1528 is actually 152.8 ft lbs. This guy shouldn't be reviewing tools.
Regardless of which spanner used, no one would have been able to break or bend any of them if used properly. I feel the Tekton is very well rounded. Bends with a decent max load, and the open end did really well to.
Sorry Red but this torture test is very misleading. With that Quinn torque adaptor it is only able to peak at around 180 FT Pounds. How did you miss the decimal point? You are making people think these wrenches are 10 times stronger then they really are. The Wright was not 1528 FT pounds it is only 152.8 Foot Pounds. I love your channel and videos but this one left me shaking my head.
I agree 100% on snap vs bend. Rather bend the tool than wind up with my hand in a cast. Makes it harder to make a living... Good testing.
You can generate 900 foot lbs with your hand? Complete opposite impression: Correctly hardened steel snaps, rather than bends. To *science* it speaks to the hardness and WEAR resistance of the tools. The ones that bent will wear faster, and will spread the jaws more. Its not an opinion, its physics.
Snap-off There are many ways of hardening. Case hardened parts can retain a lot of ductility. And when was the last time you wore out a combination wrench? That is pretty funny.
@@LTVoyager Anyone with any experience with older *real* "chinesium" wrenches has seen a 12 point box end strip out on a hardened fastener. Case hardening is for knives or other items you WANT to be able to withstand bending. You don't want wrenches bending. The wright was made correctly and had the correct failure mode. The funny part is "hand in a cast". Hex bits and torx bits are made of s2 steel, even harder, even more brittle, for the purpose. . . . of wear resistance, Even properly hardened CR-V or CR-MO will *wear* down at the points of those bits.
Snap-off You can believe what you want, but brittle failures are almost always bad. A ductile failure is almost always preferred, particularly when a human body part is what is applying the force. This is why reinforced concrete has both minimum and maximum amounts of rebar. In the early days, people figured more rebar was better. Then after a few brittle failures of reinforced concrete beams, it was decided that having some ductility and warning of impending failure was a much better deal. Same with wrenches. Once the wrench has exceeded the maximum torque it is designed to apply, a ductile failure is by far the preferred way to fail during over stress.
@@LTVoyager Ok you can believe you're saving yourself from non-existent injury, and I'll believe wrench failure injuries are never a failure on the part of the wrench but rather a failure of understanding on the part of the operator. Breaking is never a concern for me, because all my 10mm combination wrench needs are far less than 900 ft lbs.
Wright! A few years ago I ordered one set of inch and one of metric combo wrenches and I've yet to be disappointed with them.
I use Wright in a heavy use industrial/ag repair setting and they are very tough wrenches!! Also made in the USA and at a decent price point, way cheaper than tool truck.
I have some Wright, very well made. I'm also an S-K fan. I found a SK ratchet on the road, called them up, got a repair kit in 3 days and in 10 minutes, I had a working ratchet. No questions asked.
My personal favorite.
I have a Sunnex set that I keep in my car. Your opinion of them seems the same as mine. This test did confirm some of my choices though. If you want top quality Tiawan, buy Tekton. If you want top quality US, buy Wright. Great job on the test.
I learned that if I need to modify a wrench for a 90 degree angle...Husky is the brand!
....or if you want to make a chrome boomerang. :-)
Also probably easy to get replacement after you do.
Custom offset, you may need just that angle one day. Ring broke, she's in the scrap bin. Bend is better for many reasons.
Back in college, I needed a distributor wrench and just took a cheap 9/16 and bent over the combo end with a ball peen hammer. I did that right up against the curb in the parking lot. Worked great.
Buddy I hate to tell you but there’s no way you’re putting down 350+ foot pounds on those little wrenches by hand.
Thanks Jeff. I am amazed at the quality at all the price points. I remember breaking wrenches instead of bolts with cheap tools. Everyone of those would twist a bolt off long before even the open end failed.
my thought as well
Good point!
I believe you forgot the decimal point, that quinn torque adapter spec is 29.5 to 147.6 ft. lbs
Yes! Ken i think your rite
I'd like to see a wider availability of 6 point box wrenches. They work better on rounded nuts and they can be thinner to fit in tight spaces - such as removing a nut from a carburetor mounting stud.
Would have been interesting to see how a Snap On 6 point would have done-(if they have that size)-although I think they are slightly thicker at the corners than their 12 points----yes they do have 10 mm.(found mine!) (of course 12 point are more convenient and usually are plenty capable in the real world unless you are dealing with RUST or already rounded nut
A non-ratcheting 6 point box end will be bad in tight spaces. You’ll need a 60° opening
I have never broken a HF wrench.
Looks like as long as I don't put a pipe on one I never will.
I use Pittsburgh exclusively for all my DIY. All my tools work great and never failed despite the abuse I gave them
@oShane Kasper they aren’t that bad, honestly should be the standard for garage mechanics and DIY mechanics. But as heavy equipment mechanic, they don’t hold up. So professionally, I wouldn’t recommend HF tools.
I have pounding with a sledge hammer will do the trick. heating to make a curved wrench doesn't work to good on them.
LOLL
I have a set of WrightGrip wrenches. Best wrenches I've ever owned.
I was surprised that the Pittsburgh did better than the SK. So much for "You get what you pay for"!
It beat mac too!
Joe Smith those Mac knuckle savers are junk and overpriced. The precision torque wrenches are much stronger
To be fair if you look at the sk wrench at the end of the video it’s BARELY bent, I think the ups guy let go of it a little sooner than our host would have, who would only stop after they were very bent. I think he would have wrung higher numbers out of it, in comparison to the other wrenches.
Now sk is Chinese owned....you can almost see how that's going to go...
I have had good luck with the Pittsburgh HF hand tools. I haven’t broken any of them yet and they get used regularly.
I work on steam boilers. Many items gall and stick hard to each other. I find I reach for a pipe way too often. This was really helpful. I agree about the bend vs breaking.
So far tekton has been great so far. Very glad work supplied them. With the warranty I'm not afraid to make it work.
How do you remove those big plugs in tanks that are like green loctited in? Is a drill, sawzall, and hammer/chisel the only way?
@@snap-off5383 heat and a lot of force. Impact drivers or you drill and tap them clean.
End of the day, if it jams , force it.
If it breaks, it needed replacing any way.
I think you had your decimal in the wrong spot. No way you can produce 1528 foot pounds of torque.
I AGREE! I think it was inch pounds and a mistake has been made.
You can put 300-400 ft/lbs (pound feet) of torque on 10mm wrench by hand? I can't imagine a 10mm wrench withstanding more than 150 ft/lbs. Am I missing something here? A decimal perhaps?
I agree, the last digit must be a decimal
Yep
Nice job!
Personally I'd much rather have a wrench that bent rather than snapped. A wrench that snaps is a good way to hurt yourself.
It's also interesting how the numbers clustered for failure. I'm wondering if that's reflective of the actual OEM.
As far as Sunnex goes, the only reputation that I'm aware of is for their impact sockets
I would never put anything ever even close to this but Wright did great in this test. Glad I have spent my money wisely. Only gripe I have is on the open ends, they need to clean up the edges a bit. They are razor sharp
I think I'm more impressed at how well the Titan bit socket held up more than anything. You can get those get cheap. I actually have a set and have not broken any yet
Same here. To heck with the wrenches. What would it take to make that socket fail?
Thank you for doing this video! Broke and bent every wrench in the shop last week and was searching for the strongest wrench available. Subscribed!
Curious to see who you go with.
You know that the Quinn meter has a decimal point and a max accuracy is 147.6 ft. lbs but it will peak around 185 lb-ft if I recall from my testing. So when you said 749 pounds that’s really supposed to be only 74.9 ft-lbs
Decimal points, metric or imperial...not that important. Just ask NASA 🤣
xephael Yup $125 million dollar error no big deal for NASA however there probably was a decimal point error in that reporting😂🤣
Well as I said I didn't have faith in the overall accuracy of the stork meter but instead in its repeatability that's making it useful as a comparison tool even if the foot pound rating this off it's usually off across the board at the same amount
The Den of Tools Totally under stand but 749 is not seven hundred forty nine. It’s really 74.9 which is all I’m say. You keep say numbers in the hundreds when they are tens and thousands when they are really hundreds. That meter is consistent just won’t do the high numbers you said in the video.
ClientGraphics You sure that’s right? In the beginning he was pushing down by hand with most of his weight and getting 300+. So you’re saying his weight pushing down on a 5 inch leaver only created 30lb of torque??? Not bashing. Just seems like 300lbs, not 30lbs, sounds correct in that scenario.
Ehhh.... bending is a sign of softer steel. The problem is that softer steel is far more prone to wear and tear and over time running the risk of rounding bolts/nuts.
I was thinking the exact same thing. As he said "If you are reaching for a cheater bar your reaching for the wrong tool". So any of these wrenches would have held up to normal pressure by hand, however over time the softer steel would have worn away faster like you said.
False, harder steels don’t necessarily have greater toughness than softer steels
@@BromeGrass Who the hell said anything about "toughness"???
Since you apparently want to get pedantic here, allow me....
Steel alloys contain iron and other metals that create interstitial point defects in the metal, which are basically breaks in the formation of the crystal lattice structure; these create shear points which raise the strength of the alloy. The more of these (ala "high" carbon steel vs "mild" carbon steel), the harder and stronger the alloy becomes. This is desirable to a point, at which ductility and toughness become a concern for practical use. So, while the metal gets stronger, you lose ductility and toughness; and run the risk of a brittle fracture. You can compare the point of failure using whats known as Youngs Modulus and following the modulus of elasticity...
...so because these cheaper tools are typically made with lower grade steels; they are more ductile and tough, but are far more prone to undergoing plastic deformation, which can deform and ruin the tool; causing it to operate outside its defined operating range; this is why monkey wrenches are often misused and round over bolts. So yes, these cheaper tools are certainly more "tough"; they have a much lower elastic limit in tradeoff.
That better mate? That what youre going for? I'd go into temperatures effect on youngs modulus but that seems a *bit* out of the scope here, dont ya think?
Cheers ;)
@@JgHaverty yes, smaller carbon atoms fill the spaces between the bulk element atoms to create an alloy stiffer than the bulk atoms alone while generally decreasing the amount of strain energy that can be absorbed by the material. If it were me I wouldn’t want the “strongest” tool in the tool bin, because I’d rather have a 20% lower yield strength if it means I am avoiding sudden brittle failure and a potential for injury.
@@BromeGrass ...no.... I literally said it in the previous post. When steel is heated to a certain point it becomes eutectic, and the carbon atoms are free to create interstitial defects in the crystal lattice of the steel; they dont "fill tiny gaps". Thats just a completely inaccurate way to look at that. When you quench the steel after heating, the lattice freezes and the carbon atoms get locked in place.
This DOESNT make it unable to take more straining force; this means when it does strain it has less ductility so wont undergo plastic deformation like a lower quality steel will when its stressed over its elasticity point. Saying you want "lower yield strength" shows that you have a really incomplete understanding of this. Furthermore, when these cheaper tools do get strained at much lower forces; that strain causes the metal to work harden; so the tensile strength of them winds up going down leading to that "dangerous brittle fracture" you seem to be so worried about....
Anyway,. Im an engineer dude... Im sure you're used to people "google fighting", but this stuff is ABSOLUTELY my wheel house lol. Pulling an arbitrary "20%" out of your butt is also silly.
All that aside, the only tools you're EVER gonna "brittle fracture" are long handed tools youre going to have a lot of leverage on, and .... if youre able to manage to "hurt yourself" like that, then... maybe dont use tools...... In memory, the only tools I've snapped were cheap (and small) crap sockets that werent hardened properly; or the steel wasnt made right. Either way.
What would a grade 8 bolt fail at with that size head? Good point about breaking vs, bending. UPS, priceless. Husky is on my list.
I hope you have thick fur Mr. Bear! I think you might need it.
In a 10mm it depends on if its 8.8 or 10.0.
@@ifitsnotbrokenfixit1193 Grade 8 ~ 10.9
grade 8 is for SAE bolts. I just did the calculation. An M6 bolt has a 10mm head and a dry non-plated Class 12.9 M6 bolt should let go at 22 ft-lbs lol
XD
Grade 8.8 is around 65.0 ft-lbs and Grade 10.9 is around 95.0 ft-lbs on course dry threads. These numbers are general numbers and not precise.
@@ClientGraphics Did you post for an M10 bolt? M10 doesn't have 10mm head. I just did a quick search and first 3 charts were www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm/ www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx
Failure calculated out to about 170% of suggested torque.
Those torques are way high for little M6 bolt.
Bear, great video. I liked the surprise cameo of the UPS guy. Awesome of you to share the fun.
Seriously though, those smaller size wrenches standing up to that much torque is impressive in and of itself. I was expecting failure around the 600 - 700 number. Also that Titan hex standing up and laughing at all those wrenches, that was something else in and of itself. Great video.
LOL, like armwrestling your dad. Titan: "you can go any time you want my young cheater pipe."
None of these made it to 600 to 700 ft lbs. There is a decimal point missing. The numbers that say 672 was actually 67.2 ft lbs. If anyone here thinks a 10 mm wrench made it to 600 ft lbs they don't know much about being a mechanic.
In 1976 I was a service teck for a national mfg. As such overhauling customers equipt. was always a challange! I was stuck on one job in particular where I had to remove a internal safety relief valve and I only had a 1/2 inch drive Craftsman breaker bar it was a 24"! the only socket available anywhere near was a 1 3/4" by 3/4 drive. I had to use it with a 3/4" x 1/2" reducer and the 1/2" x 24" Craftsman breaker bar,and a 6' pipe on the end and 2 people at once trying to take out this s/r valve ! The valve didnt come out but we did bend the Craftsmen breaker bar 8" out of shape before the 1/2" drive shattered like a .457 magnum gun shot. Say what you will about Craftsman tools, but after that I swore by Craftsman Tools , they were tough!
Looks like the real winner is the HF Jaw Horse for taking the same punishment as the wrenches and still holding. Just a heads up on the Kobalt wrenches. They lowered the price of the 11 piece set to $20. I picked up a couple sets to carry in my tractor toolbox. Didn't look to close till I was walking out of the store and one of the sets had rust covering a couple wrenches. Took it right back in and they let me pick a different set. I had to dig through all they had to find some that didn't have rust. I certainly don't know how they stored them before me buying them but it doesn't look to promising for their chrome plating.
Chinese plating and metallurgy is subpar. I don’t trust anything from that country. Even their stainless steel rusts after a short time.
I have to say those wrenches all performed well past the breaking strength for a 10mm bolt/
My problem with harbor freight
Wrenches is they slip it almost as if the chinese manufacturers use the dies to long before theyre replaced
The tooling process is a big part of the cost of any tool. Chinese wrenches are usually pretty inconsistent in size and quality of steel
ANSI specs on 10mm are not in the hundreds of foot pounds. Even a grade 12.9 M10 is around 95 foot pounds at 85% proof load so there is simply no way you achieved the numbers you stated. They are simply not achievable.
I think you're right, someone above said there should be a decimal point in there, so the Wright should be 153 lb-ft instead of 1528 lb-ft . . . which is awesome for a 10mm wrench.
Just add a decimal he forgot. 😄
Yes you can't achieve that much torque through a small wrench, or apply it with a two foot piece of pipe. I was wondering if they were reporting inch-pounds, but moving the decimal point would be in a similar ballpark.
Have a set of wrightgrip wrenches at work, all my coworkers say it’s a cheap brand but it’s lasting just as long as the snap ons my boss has haha
What I take away from this test is that any one of these wrenches would do the job, as long as you didn't abuse it.
DwightM S agreed!
Yes this was a useless test! If you're trying to break lug nuts with a wrench. Then you need to go buy more tools and you deserve your knuckles to be all beat up. Sorry I'm done
Exactly. Which 10mm wrench will fit into a tight place on your engine to remove a bolt or nut? That's the tool you need.
The numbers in the beginning were really arbitrary...
Yeah was a complete waste of time. Doesn't show anything.
His leverage was off for every wrench
Lol, the numbers were less with him wincing in pain.
Old craftsman, proto, sk, Williams, snap on, and wright are my favorites
Old craftsman screwdrivers are the toughest I've ever used. I abused my dad's set back in the 80s when I was a kid and they Are still good to this day.
I've only broken one brand of wrench before, it was an old HarborFreight brand. I used the open end to try to undo a brake line at a master cylinder, and one of the jaws just fell off with very little effort. That was back when HF was selling tools for the price of a soda can. Now HF is more expensive than before, but the quality of their tools are much better than before as well.
Since HF is doing the good better best thing, I wouldn't mind seeing how their offerings stand up to one another.
The Quinn Torque meter you have max's out at 147.6 lbs ft . I have never come across a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter that could get any where near 1000 lbsft of torque load..
Harbor freight is still my go to. Good enough for my occasional weekend use and cheap enough for me to buy what I need when I need it.
Another useful review! Hey, remember when you gave the pre-release quick review of the Hercules miter saw stand? Finally got mine today! Its IS well made.. Highly recommended. My 40 year old Makita miter saw has never been on a nicer stand. It stows and rolls easily, 4th leg adjusts to eliminate wobble. Side arms go in and out easily, and hold square.
Glad you enjoy it I really love mine
The Den of Tools Even skeptical husband is very impressed with the new high grade stuff at HF. I was told they are only getting 2 or 3 of these miter saw stands at a time and they sell out the day, or day after, they arrive... (and the other models of stands go unsold. Our store has sold zero of the new budget stand... zero!) We lucked out, had the money available and just drove over to buy it... It was the last one in the store, .. part of a batch having just arrived earlier in the day.
I would like to know what you were using as a cheater bar and how long it was to be able to apply 1500+ pound feet of torque. I used a 1/2" drive socket and a 25" breaker bar to apply torque to remove my RV lug nuts. I have to almost stand on it to remove them and I weigh in at 225+ .
Harold Dossett The Quinn meter is rated for a Torque range of 29.5 to 147.6 ft. lbs. Notice how I have decimal points in my numbers so does that meter so all the numbers need to be divided by 10 to be accurate. I’ve used a torque meter thousands of times. I’m even doing a NIST Calibration lab tour and test next week that I hope to do video on!
Hey, did this on the video but the accuracy of that meter and high pressure is suspect however it is accurately inaccurate is it makes sense in other words it's inaccurate across-the-board thus making it still viable as a comparison tool
Love these comparison videos. I know how much work goes into them, great job.
For those that broke it would be interesting to see a comparison between the 12 point box end and a 6 point box end.
The sunnex impact socket kits from amazon are amazing, our new apprentice set for our apprentice has sunnex wrenches... and yes they’re junk a few broken in a month, and they just feel like cheap junk. The warranty is a joke as well. Good job 🐻
Also, if you can put 1400ish ft.lbs by hand on a regular/short pattern wrench you have missed your calling in life. Someone in the circus/ strong man competition world will probably hand you a nice contract deal.
ElmoZ71 LS1 I have the sunnex impact socket set too and they’re great. They’re the same as Matco’s ADV impact sockets. Their air hammer is also one of matco’s older discontinued air hammers and it hits hard!
Reckless entertainment I forgot we also use the sunnex 1 inch drive sockets on class 8 truck lugnuts and never an issue. The Matco dealer in my area has pretty much been run out of town for swapping Matco stuff for gearwrench and other shady things. Ignersoll rand is my go to for air tools,
Are they different countries of origin? Do you happen to know where the wrenches are made? I'm pretty sure the sockets are made in taiwan in the "blue point" factory.
Snap-off the sunnex wrenches say “drop forged China” on one side and the size and brand name on the other. The impact sockets say Taiwan
Sunex hand tools have a nice polished chrome finish, unfortunately they are useless JUNK. Bought a cheap set of Sunex box wrenches new in package. I didn't keep the receipt and didn't register the tools because who is going to bother with going through that kind of trouble for a cheap set of box wrenches? First time I attempted to use the wrenches the 13mm was just not getting any bite on the bolt. I took a good look at it only to discover that the the 13 mm ring HAD NO TEETH! It was just a round hole. No, the points weren't sheared off, there weren't any. To the credit of Sunex, the chrome inside the ring was perfect. This wrench-like thing was very nice to look at, but I couldn't actually use it to...you know...loosen or tighten nuts 'n bolts. I also couldn't get it replaced because I didn't have the receipt and didn't register the tools for warranty service. I took all 4 and tossed them, even the 'good' ones seems to have a lot of slop when on the bolt. Sunex, please just go away.
I'm surprised the HF Pittsburgh did as well as it did bending at 982. I think bending was better than cracking or breaking, the ones that bent the metal had a little more give.
I gotta add something: I was born in the late 40s. Began my life in the post WWII era. When I was a kid, the legend: "made in Japan," meant cheap. Japanese cars were a joke and Korean cars weren't even considered a possibility. Japanese and Korean auto makers have mostly overtaken U.S. made cars when it comes to quality. I have read comments about Chinese tools and some negative comments about HFRT products, mention made in China. Why do Americans insist upon the belief that something made in America is of far better quality than things made overseas? Sure, some imports are of poor quality, but so are some of America's exports. I read a comment, recently, from a person who said "Professionals don't buy from Harbor Freight." In the first place, that isn't true and, in the second, I will explain I was a vehicle (automotive and heavy equipment) when I was a young man. I purchased and used tools from all of the well known manufacturers and spent a good amount on Snap-On. I recently purchased a set of HFRT's ratcheting combination wrenches. I will state unequivocally, the feel of those wrenches is every bit as good as any hand wrench I have used; they fit the fastener (bolt or nut) precisely and the ratchets operate smoothly without slipping--and for tool geeks, they are pleasing to look at. I suggest if more "professionals" dropped their pretension and give some of those Chinese made tools a try, the tide would change. After all, Chinese workers are men and women just like we are and are just as concerned about creating good products as we are (if they don't, no one will buy). And.... don't forget, the railroads in the west would not have been built when they were if it weren't for imported (and mistreated) Chinese workers. Summation: before condemning a product, try using it.
If you break a box wrench, in most circumstances you are using the wrong tool For the job.
For those of you looking for wrenches to use all day every day, I'd eyeball the broken ones over the bent ones. You're not going to put 900 ft lbs on them and snap them, and they obviously have harder steel, so they'll wear less. Guaranteed you take that Titan hex to *ITS* failure mode, it will be a break, not a bend.
It’s hard to beat the value and performance of a Taiwanese made tool these days. I personally love my Carlyle sockets and wrenches and they haven’t disappointed me yet.
@anonymous they say both carlye and napa on mostly all their tools
I can still remember when I was about 16-17 years old working at a tire place. They had real auto mechanics in other bays doing real repairs. These are mechanics with their own massive tool chests and thousands of dollars worth of personal tools. I remember walking over to ask a mechanic - Angel if I could use his breaker bar as some lug nuts were jammed on. The reason I asked was due to some old man as he was leaving with his new tires, tested his lug nuts by hand. He said the last time he was there the lug nuts were over torqued and he couldn't get them off roadside when he got a flat. He asked me to check them and his little 10-12" lug nut wrench wouldn't budge them. We had this real shit head, Cole, that worked there and he would use the impact gun full open if there was any notation of "hand torque" on the work order. Apparently he was teaching this picky customers some kind of lesson...LOL The Mechanic Angel said I could borrow his SnapOn breaker bar...but none of those other "monkeys" that I worked with could touch it. I assured him, I would be the one using it. I walked out and got on the verrrrrry end of a really long breaker bar. I gave it all I had like I was doing a dead lift and clink-clank....the SnapOn on breaker bar was....BROKEN. I was scared to tell Angel I broke his bar. But when I did, he was OK with it, as when the Snap On tool truck guy showed up at lunch time, he got a brand new one. THAT is when I realized buying a reputable tool is key. If and when they break, you get a new one....no questions/hassles. None of these wrenches in your video will ever break if used properly. But IF they did...I want the one that has no hassle replacement.
Pretty much all manufacturers have lifetime guarantees from the cheapest Pittsburgh to the most expensive Snap-On.
@@jhitt79 Maybe you are right. The SnapOn truck drove up and just exchanged it on the spot. I just bought some Klein screwdrivers and the cheap ass toys that they are my slotted screwdriver twisted like a pretzel. I was just turning a screw with one hand and not that much pressure. I don't even think they are hardened steel. They won't take it back and asked me to go back to where I bought it. The home depot clerk must have been a slow adult. I couldn't get anywhere with help there. I just threw the whole set in the garbage and will never buy Klein again.
Kinda gives an ole Bear a work out. The Husky looked like a half moon wrench, maybe a quarter moon wrench. Thanks for the info!
For long term regular use wouldn’t the wrenches that break be better because the 12 point box end tolerance would stay the same for a longer period of time because the metal is harder and wouldn’t mushroom as much ?
Nobody does
@Jomama None will break under -Normal Use- They all come with a Warning to "Never use a Cheater Pipe" I have put Wrenches to the test, & if I have an Inkling it's pushed to the limit (trust me I don't want to lose an Eye either) I switch to a Socket & Johnson Bar or Heat the thing up & try again with the Wrench, but not lean on a Pipe. (-Snap- followed by me crashing into something not my idea of fun at work either) Broken a # of Nut & Bolt Heads in the past but only broke 1 Socket & widened Wrench Jaws.
The Way I see it is the best bang for your buck is between Craftsman & Carlyle. Craftsman Broke a tooth but did not bend and Carlyle bent, but not as bad as the rest. Even Harbor Freight seemed to outperform some of the other name brands! Now that's saying something. Tolerance Vs. Brut Strength! Great Video Really happy you took my suggestion into consideration. I thought this was a far better test than the open end. The open end test was good but the box end was better! Cheers Brother Bear & Thanks for doing this video! I almost bought SK. Glad I waited. Cheers!
You know you want a big shinny set of Tektons Justin!
I was the test lab rat at a company that made recliner mechanisms, for automotive seating. I tortured and broke many different makes and models of these things, but they were all mounted in fixtures designed to replicate seat frames. They were pulled hydraulically, in the ultimate static strength machine. In line with the roller chain used, was a load cell, calibrated regularly by an outside load cell testing service. The results were fairly and consistently tested. From that point of view, I see this series of tests as very basic. The failure modes were believable, but the numbers are kinda on the crude side. If I were to do this testing, it would have involved a hydraulic method and a studier fixture setup. A real proper series of tests would involve 3 samples of each wrench, to determine consistency (a 30 sample each would yield crunchable data, to get statistical capabilities). As I mentioned, this lab was well equipped, so I didn't expect certifiable number results from these tests, but the failure modes were usable data. BTW, the best failure mode would be in the bending. The sudden break is called catastrophic failure. Those that broke are knuckle busters, and that Craftsman stripping teeth is the worst. This indicates a material that is brittle, and the heat treat is a factor. Yes I'm a smartass. BUWAHAHA. I am Doctor Destructo. "You make em I break em" was my saying back in those days.
Next week we call the tool trucks for Snap-On, MAC and Matco and then start the Warranty Clock (it may be a calendar) and track the time required for a Warranty Replacement!
Often infinity if the guy doesn't want to come just to warranty a tool he might not even have sold
I have tools from all three. Mac is usually quickest followed by Matco then Snap-on
Or you can just go down to the Harbor Freight store and have your replacement the same day.
Mike Frech then you’d be doing it a lot depending on which field you work in. I’m in a diesel shop so my Pittsburgh’s didn’t last long although I was hoping they’d last longer. Switched to tekton and they’ve been great
Oh HELL YEAH. High five for best tool video idea EVER. Warranty race!
Good test and review overall. I wanted to see difference between Pittsburgh and Husky as lowest price sets. This test exactly what I was looking for! I prefer bending instead of breaking as well agree with your point of view.
Got old school Craftsman is still my favorite wrench I don't know if it can never be beat
Wright beats my older Craftsman which is sort of O.K.
Great video, my take on sk: they're for engineers not mechanics. Anything over 300 is an abuse situation IMO, and there are times when that's just what happens. But sk appears to be for the professional who works with immaculate machinery.
For your viewers, remember it's a sample size of 1 and what isn't tested here is the value of the relationship the company develops with their buyers.
This was a pretty cool video and comparison of failures. It’s cool to see what a tool can handle. My wrench of choice is the wright grip wrench. I have them. I love them. They are the best wrenches ever made.
However, in ALL the wrenches defense none of these results are actually plausible in real life situations so the bargain brands are still ok to use.
It’s more of ball swinging thing that my wrench is the toughest and it made me smile so thanks!!
😂😂😂
had a HF 1" wrench on the ground, stepped on it and it bent, i'm only 160lb.
Wright tools is beast AF, their weight grip wrenches are awesome.
The Wright really impressed me.
@Paul Hopkins industrial, commercial, government/military. USA company. Illinois. Can usually find new on eBay.
Jeff Norbert Wright is in Ohio. SK in Illinois
The winner is... none of them -You might as well test which is best for writing your name in the sand. If you're putting that much stress on a wrench, like you said, you're using the wrong tool. This does not test the longevity of a tool. To test longevity you need to measure repeated routine pressure, not pressure exceeding what they are meant to do till they break. When they test a car for longevity they do not floor it until something breaks. They run it on a dyno at normal running speeds. Impact gun is the way to go, breaker bar in pinch. The test makes for silly fun, I guess, but that's about it. I'm sure manufacturers have ways of testing the life of wrenches under normal use, particularly where lifetime warranties are given. I don't know. Sorry if my comment is a little mean. It wasn't intentional.
That’s not how steel works. Learn about yield and tensile strengths.
So buy your favorite sets, use them for a few years and let us know……
I'm not sure how "unacceptable" any of these forces were as a 6 inch lever requires twice the linear force of the lb/ ft torque measure. Even measured in the 700 lb range, that's over 1400 lbs of required linear force. There are some strong techs out there, but I doubt any are that strong. I have a feeling that a decimal was misplaced, or the readout was set to in/lbs. If in in/lbs, 750 in/lbs is about 62.5 ft/lbs, which would require 125 lbs of linear force. Still quite a lot. Very, very bruised palms before broken knuckles.
This is probably the best way I can think of to run your fist into the asphalt with full speed and conviction. Great idea!
What I take away from this test is, value is not determined by cost. Tool manufacturers have caught up to the “Tool Truck” quality at a fraction of the cost. Me personally I love Gearwrench wrenches and they have never let me down. Broke 1 out of 130-150 in 10 years. Recently broke a ratcheting 19mm, called 800#, got replacement in mail 4 days later. Tekton has proven their quality, affordability and unmatched guarantee rendering tool trucks obsolete. There is absolutely no argument out there to buy off a tool truck unless it’s your personal preference.
Actually the trucks have alot of special tools that can't be bought at harbor freight or other places.
Interesting info and thanks for taking the time but any of these wrenches will do its job fine without bending or breaking when used the intended way, without a pipe. Your test does show overall tool quality though when pushed to the limits which tells something about the manufacturer.
open end spreading matters to me more with a wrench
Agree 100%, I 've busted my knuckles bad using my older gearwrench open ends and hated them. I ended up getting a set of Snapon flank drive plus and it made a world of difference, I'm getting the Proto Anti slip ratchet wrenches next and giving the gearwrench away.
I buy Kobalt tools from Lowes. Lowes stores are usually well stocked, so getting a replacement socket or wrench isn't a problem. Husky from HD aren't as good, and most HD crap is only sold in sets. So getting a replacement for something lost is difficult. 25 years ago, back when I had my repair shop, my employees used to waste their money on the tool trucks. I always bought Sears Craftsman back when they were still American made. I never saw any value in SnapOn, Mac or even SK.
I AM VINDICATED!!
WRIGHT TOOLS ROCK!!
Correct, of the USA brands Wight Tools are tops and cost WAY less than the Wrencher Status brand like "Snap-On".
Yep! Wrightgrip2.0
Red, forgive me if I have the size of the tools wrong, I think they are 10mm wrenches aren’t they? In which case this is total BS and they all win really. A 10mm hex is generally on an M6 bolt and an M6 even in the highest grades only have a max tightening force of about 20ft/lbs, that means the bolt will break eons before the wrench ever does. Now the torque required to break a high grade M6 is greater than 20 but nowhere near what these wrenches are damaged at, furthermore no one in their right mind would put that much force into an M6. When you feel it yielding it’s time to try something different like some heat or penetrating oil, you learn that pretty quick after using drills and ez-outs and taps and so on for hours when a cooler head would have had it out in a few minutes without breaking it using a different tactic.
I think the original video was better because how they feel, look and effect your wallet is most important.
And the winner is the Cheater bar and the torque meter. Neither one failed.
I have bent wrenches, that I have used well beyond that abuse point. You said it well, you know when you are stressing a tool beyond it's limits. This was great for showing max torque to bend a good wrench, and which ones gave up sooner. Or just broke. All in all, I will take my bent wrenches to the next job! Thanks for the vid!
Tekton is what Craftsman used to be in my opinion. Alot of Made in USA, great quality, and great prices
NAILED IT! That is the perfect way to describe Tekton.
Wright is the winner in my eyes even though it broke it took a ton of force to do it and it means it has a harder temper and it won’t wear out as fast and no man by hand will ever be able to put that much force without a heavy multiplier.
MAGADETH I guess you can say that for all the tools in this test. The tester is a strong guy and he only managed about 400 lbs of pressure by his hands. But if you have to pick a winner, Wright is superior!
@@mr.bosstang8363 It wasn't 400 ft lbs there is a decimal point missing from the results so 400 is actually 40.0. It is even on the display but bears don't know how to read.
Wright is my favorite, just wish they were a bit longer.
whoops. Just saw the torque on Wright Tools Combo wrench. Never-mind! Wright Tools for the win, But still impressed with Carlyle, Craftsman, & HF
It was game over. 388 by force of hands in the beginning. That's impressive.
A few takeaways- for the price im pleasantly surprised pitsburge did so well! I loved husky but ive fallen out of love with their tools after them bending on the job. Good to know its not just a fluke. I've always liked craftsman and seeing theyre middle of the road makes sense. Im horribly disappointed snap on did so well because im not blessed enough to afford them 🤣 i do like that if/when they break or bend, i can just take it to the truck outside and get a new one.
I think the best way to look at a test like this is to look for the outliers. I don't really see an outright winner, but there certainly are some losers. Sunnex and Husky for example.
I was considering buying some sunnex tools on Prime day via Amazon. Kind of glad I didn't now.
Their sockets and impacts appear to be alright. I have the 1/4" and 1/2" socket sets, and shorty 1/2" pneumatic impact.
I'm not sure if it's been said, but keep in mind that ALL of these wrenches held up well past their intended torque range.. At the amount of torque being applied here, you wouldn't and shouldn't be using a box end wrench. I would like to see this test repeated though using a second box end onto the open end of these and see how well THAT holds up.. We've all done it, don't judge me.
I bent a Pittsburgh 12 mm wrench doing the box end on open end double up. They are pretty soft.
Everyone Lets not Forget Grant Thompsons Family in this time of Loss. The King of Random will be truly missed
Indeed, just remember powered paragliding is not the safest recreational activity around.
Common, break those tools like a Bear, not like a Cub.
All those companies want a Bear rug.
😉😎✌
I continue to be impressed by Texton! Top quality with pricing around the Harbor Freight level. Great warranty from what I’ve been told. Watch for big things from Texton!
It's like a budget Harbor Freight AvE.
Without the swearing 😁
Or the overt bias
@@denoftools overt bias to what? The fact he tests at a much standard then your own set up? He removes as many variables as possible. And still shows that the tool truck stuff is worth it if you want to spend the money for quality and a lifetime of use.
@@Evanm1136 Except the tool truck stuff isn't. He is one of the few channels still trying to carry their water. Most truly independent testing has shown time and again that tool trucks loose to brands that cost half of what they charge. Don't look at how he tests, look at what he tests. He did a comparison of a standard snap-on versus a flex head Kobalt. Then when the flex head failed at a lower pressure, as any flex head would, he declared SnapOn the winner? I'm sorry but if you can't see the overt bias in something like that then you're just a fanboy.
@@Evanm1136 If you can't see he's got a favoritism for "made in the western world" you haven't watched much AvE.
Awesome vid, I own the wrights and ill say I love them. Super comfy thick beam well made USA wrench’s. Kudos to that damn titan hex socket I think I’m gonna but some now lol. Can’t believe that thing held up through all that abuse amazing I tell ya.
It’s funny i bent a Snap-on 1/2 in combo in the same way the Husky with my bear hands in my opinion it way just a lemon but when the guy who owned the wrench brought it back to the Snap-on guy he almost didn’t warranty it
I've heard stories like that. On the other hand, I once found a 3/8" Snap-on ratchet in the middle of the street, no insides present at all, just the lollipop. I wasn't working as a tech at the time, but at an office next door to a Volvo dealership. Well, next time the Snap-on truck rolled around to the dealership I brought out my lollipop and the guy replaced the innards for free no questions asked.
A test showing which brand wrench fits tightest on a nut or bolt with both the open end and box end. I find a lot of cheaper wrenches tend to damage or round nuts/bolts off
Wright Tool here I come!
N_ R Wright impact sockets are the toughest I’ve ever used. They’re priced great for USA made sockets because they don’t have the costs associated with advertising and dealers.
Mac tools has a surprisingly large following. But I was raised by a mechanic, practically living in a shop. My father went through the Mac phase. I'm now 41 years old and anytime I hear the words "broken wrench", I immediately have flashbacks of some of the many snapped ends with the Mac logo embossed onto the sides of the handles. To this day, my father still wouldn't own a Mac tool, even if given it for free.
Dang. MAC has always been my dream tool. I love the old boxy design from the 80s/90s. Tekton with the points incentive is starting to become my fav now. You really can’t expect any of them to hold up against a bear with a cheater. Awesome video.
The newer mac wrenches with the precision torque basically flank drive plus design and the I beam grip area are 10x better than the knuckle saver he tested no one I've ever known who bought the knuckle savers liked them but the precision torques are amazing yet quite expensive in my opinion I don't care what torque the wrench fails at I care more about at what torque does the open end fail or spread. On a small side note you can also get the precision torque style wrenches from proto as well same exact wrenches, same thing with the newer ratcheting one I cant remember what they are called but still about the same price either way.
Good work Jeff!! All these fanboys claiming not to be fanboys. Get a life guys, your choice is not the best for everyone. Plenty of good tools out there to serve all purposes.
I agree - I'd rather have a wrench bend than break, although breaking at 1500... If you haven't loosened the nut by that point, it's either not a nut or it's welded on.
Can we trust that the UPS guy has a perfectly calibrated arm? The number for his wrench is suspect, in my mind.
Those harbor freight and kobalt are good value because in real world situations no man is putting that much stress on any wrench unless you want rounded bolts. But great test brother