Thanks Mike! I've had a lot going on with work, my shop, and some family matters. It was good to be able to upload a few back logged vids. 😁 Thanks! Scott
Thank you for your kind words! Unfortunately I don't really allow any visitors for many reasons including liability. I really appreciate the gesture though, it means a lot, which is one of many reasons why I produce content on CZcams. Thanks! Scott
Hi, Brian, thank you! It was a custom build I did myself in the shop. It was designed off of a video I saw on CZcams. After I built mine I later discovered the system I saw in the video was commercially available for around $2500-3000 complete set-up from a company called Wynmatic. I wish I could say that building my own was cheaper, but it wasn't if you count the time lost in R&D and the build plus the commercial raw materials (aluminum bar stock, HDPE & UHMW plastic, lexan polycarbonate, heavy duty clamps, and all the hardware). I have all of $3000 into if I paid myself for the 40-50 hours lost (R&D, ordering materials, cutting, drilling, and tapping, testing, revising ect). I later did get to see a revised version of the coping jig in another shop a friend of mine owns, and I can tell you first hand it is a stout heavy duty well built jig for $795 and worth it. It's not your typical eBay or Amazon overseas light weight. Thanks! Scott
Lol! Well it only looks easy because I've invested the time and money in a simple two in one setup which it took me years to figure out my previous method was not utilizing the two Powermatic 27S shapers. Now with all three shapers I can build doors pretty efficiently with literally no setup or tare down for processes. Thanks. Scott
When you are sticking the rails and stiles, what is that fence your using to ride the stock against? I have a Powermatic 27 shaper and would like to find that fence as well. Thx
Where do you order your insert shaper cutters from? You mentioned it in a previous video, but I can't seem to find that same reference anywhere! Thanks in advance!
Dimensions In Tooling, Granger Indiana USA. They are a small company that do strictly custom tooling at very reasonable prices, with no minimum orders on carbide inserts. They also offer a variety of made to order profiles for: cope & stick, raised panel, and door edge profiles. They don't quite have the same offering as Byrd Tool, but the pricing is better with no design or engineering fees on custom tooling. Every single tool body I've received from them runs very smooth. Hope this helps. Scott
I use a 1/4" veneered sheet stock that has an mdf core that has the same species on both sides, rather than a fur or poplar core which makes it a little thicker around 0.235". If your not concerned about how the back looks, you can shoot some 1/2"-5/8" 23 or 28 gauge pins / brads at an angle in behind the panel to tuck the panel tight against the front. Scott
I can run down to about 6 1/4" with a 1 HP 3 roll power feeder. One key factor is the tire quality and condition. I do not run the OEM tires that they come with which turn hard and slippery. I use replaceable tires made by a company called Accrotech in a 60a durometer made from a urethane material that stays soft and never hardens. Thanks! Scott
Do you ever have any issues with not pre staining + finishes the doors with regards to the panel expanding + contracting? Great job though, you definitely make it look easy.
No. All of the tooling I use for cope and stick frame doors have a eased inside edge to allow stain and finish to penetrate slightly under. Thanks! Scott
The practice of nailing a joint with 18g pin nails is a practice that is widely used in the industry. It serves as a clamp while the glue dries. This eliminates the need to have additional clamps tied up and doors stacking up all over the floor. I pin nail for stain doors only, fir paint I glue and clamp only for a 100% seamless painted finish.
Very nice shop!!!
Nice video good to see you are keeping busy
Thanks Mike! I've had a lot going on with work, my shop, and some family matters. It was good to be able to upload a few back logged vids. 😁 Thanks! Scott
Can I come by your shop and learn? You're amazing!
Thank you for your kind words! Unfortunately I don't really allow any visitors for many reasons including liability. I really appreciate the gesture though, it means a lot, which is one of many reasons why I produce content on CZcams. Thanks! Scott
Slick setup, I love the t rail on the shaper. Beats using clamps,
Thanks! Scott
I love that sled/clamp your using to cope the rails! Where did you get it? Or is it a custom build?
Hi, Brian, thank you! It was a custom build I did myself in the shop. It was designed off of a video I saw on CZcams. After I built mine I later discovered the system I saw in the video was commercially available for around $2500-3000 complete set-up from a company called Wynmatic. I wish I could say that building my own was cheaper, but it wasn't if you count the time lost in R&D and the build plus the commercial raw materials (aluminum bar stock, HDPE & UHMW plastic, lexan polycarbonate, heavy duty clamps, and all the hardware). I have all of $3000 into if I paid myself for the 40-50 hours lost (R&D, ordering materials, cutting, drilling, and tapping, testing, revising ect). I later did get to see a revised version of the coping jig in another shop a friend of mine owns, and I can tell you first hand it is a stout heavy duty well built jig for $795 and worth it. It's not your typical eBay or Amazon overseas light weight. Thanks! Scott
You make it look way to easy, keep up the videos.
Lol! Well it only looks easy because I've invested the time and money in a simple two in one setup which it took me years to figure out my previous method was not utilizing the two Powermatic 27S shapers. Now with all three shapers I can build doors pretty efficiently with literally no setup or tare down for processes. Thanks. Scott
When you are sticking the rails and stiles, what is that fence your using to ride the stock against? I have a Powermatic 27 shaper and would like to find that fence as well. Thx
Where do you order your insert shaper cutters from? You mentioned it in a previous video, but I can't seem to find that same reference anywhere! Thanks in advance!
Dimensions In Tooling, Granger Indiana USA. They are a small company that do strictly custom tooling at very reasonable prices, with no minimum orders on carbide inserts. They also offer a variety of made to order profiles for: cope & stick, raised panel, and door edge profiles. They don't quite have the same offering as Byrd Tool, but the pricing is better with no design or engineering fees on custom tooling. Every single tool body I've received from them runs very smooth. Hope this helps. Scott
What do you use for the panel? I am looking at making a couple doors and the router bit cuts a 1/4 slot but the sheets i have are only .185 thick.
I use a 1/4" veneered sheet stock that has an mdf core that has the same species on both sides, rather than a fur or poplar core which makes it a little thicker around 0.235". If your not concerned about how the back looks, you can shoot some 1/2"-5/8" 23 or 28 gauge pins / brads at an angle in behind the panel to tuck the panel tight against the front. Scott
How do u get away with running such short pieces in the power feeder?
I can run down to about 6 1/4" with a 1 HP 3 roll power feeder. One key factor is the tire quality and condition. I do not run the OEM tires that they come with which turn hard and slippery. I use replaceable tires made by a company called Accrotech in a 60a durometer made from a urethane material that stays soft and never hardens. Thanks! Scott
Do you ever have any issues with not pre staining + finishes the doors with regards to the panel expanding + contracting? Great job though, you definitely make it look easy.
No. All of the tooling I use for cope and stick frame doors have a eased inside edge to allow stain and finish to penetrate slightly under. Thanks! Scott
Why are you nailing them? genuine question
The practice of nailing a joint with 18g pin nails is a practice that is widely used in the industry. It serves as a clamp while the glue dries. This eliminates the need to have additional clamps tied up and doors stacking up all over the floor. I pin nail for stain doors only, fir paint I glue and clamp only for a 100% seamless painted finish.