Hobby Cheating 117 - How to Paint Fire
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- čas přidán 5. 01. 2018
- In this Hobby Cheating Turorial, I take you through a quick method of painting fire that can have striking results. Fire presents a unique challenge (being the opposite of how we normally highlight) but can be a lot of fun to paint and add real pop to your minis. Hope you enjoy.
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Vince's RPG Podcast: itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/u... - Hry
I love how you make it simple and yet the results are always fantastic. Thank you.
Always happy to help. :)
I wish I had watched this video years ago. So good. It completely changed the way I paint fire.
Wonderful to hear!
Thanks Brother I was working on a project where I need to do some flames, and as usual you are very helpful, thank you.
Any time! :)
This video is SUPER helpful, my fyreslayers for Warcry . Thank you for the tips!
Glad it was helpful!
A brilliant (and hot ;) ) tutorial. Thanks for sharing it.
Thank you sir, much appreciated, as always. :)
I have a white wash that I've never found much use for and this video has given me some ideas especially for some less "traditional" looking fire.
Yep, you could definitely use a white wash in the same way.
This is a really great tutorial... thanks!
Thank you, very much appreciated.
Great tutorial bud. Thank you!
Always happy to help. :)
Whoo!Been looking for a tutorial for this !
Excellent, always happy when projects align with what I put out. :)
after watching this video of how to paint real flames which was great as always you come up trumps with the end result but what i would like to see if it is possible for you to paint the full kit of this fire phoenix by warhammer ,it's just amazing to see you use different colours in the way you do thumbs up.👍👍👍♨
Thank you! Cheers!
Great tutorial Vince
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
I found something nice that worked for me, starting with a base of off-white and making a true white wash for the deepest recesses, then building uo the darker colours as usual.
That's a great idea!
Great video, will be very useful. Your sound was much better than on previous videos.
New camera, new mic, hopefully better things to come. I will have to re-record some old videos.
The quality improvemnet was very noticeable. And showing your palette is really good.
I've seen some people use a muted yellow, with a bright orange and red, and then a dark orange brown. The muted yellow, like maybe a sand yellow, worked really well. It was a surprising and unintuitive choice, and made me think of a color scheme one might see in an oil painting of fire.
Absolutely, we tend to think of it as very bright, but the colors should actually have a slightly desaturated and muted quality because they are already SO bright compared to everything else on the mini.
Looks really good
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
you make it look so easy man!
In this case, it can be easy, though it certainly isn't always, but I have painted this particular combo lots of times. ALways happy to help.
Awesome Video! I have been waiting for this.
On another note, are you going to give your opinion on the new greenstuffworld chameleon paints and possible applications of those? :)
At some point in time, I have a few other paints and items waiting for review, but I will give them a try sometime this year.
I'm late to the show, but great video for project of the nesr future, thanks for all the tips.
Glad it was helpful!
amazing tutorial
Thank you, much appreciated.
Beautiful!
Thank you, much appreciated.
Your dedication to helping us feel like we can do this is extremely appreciated! I love that go through such detail. You’re my favorite tutor on here! Thanks 👍🏼
Great video once again, very helpful. May I ask, why did you pick game colour yellow ink rather than Scale colour or FW?
I like it's hue and intensity (the others are more lemon), but they would work. Fire yellow should have a hint of orange to it and that has the slightest touch.
Awesome ! I guess that the yellow ink can be a wash as well if applied in thin layers to have some on the tips ?
Absolutely, it's just a matter of controlling how powerful it is by thinning it (it's quite powerful straight) and how much is on the brush.
I watched this video 30 times! I finally used it how i imagined. I hope you see my instagram post. Thank you so much can’t wait to see if i nailed it!
Glad it was helpful. I looked at the post. Short answer is you have a nice blend, but it's tough over a solid object like that which isn't clearly made of fire (the weapons in this case). It's tricky when you have solid shapes like that. My best advice on the colors, is you need to reduce the yellow, increase the orange and push more into the darker red/brown/blacks around the end of the weapon.
If you really feel like pushing, on things like the mace head, you just want to have that get real dark red/brown/black and put some heat in the holes so it looks like the fire is contained within.
Hope that helps and thanks for watching. :)
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince. I tried my best with it. I have 2 more maces to finish this squad off I will use your advice on my Champion and see out it comes out. The weapon has the mace balls on it bu also an axe. Blade of Caliban is the name of weapon. I will keep you updated.
Hi Vince. How would you go about painting burning embers/charred ground? Maybe bone/white undercoat, darker rust/orange in the recess, hull red overbrush, building over with a dark grey/black drybrush, then a soft drybrush with a pale grey to pick out "ashes" on the top edges?
Yep, exactly that, but I would make it random with some stippling so it's more patchy.
Thanks for another great video! Do you have a new recoding equipment? Video is very crisp and sound is super clear!
Yep, finally got my new set-up so hopefully, this will be the low bar going forward as I learn how to use the camera better and we can get real sharp detail on everything.
Great! Looking forward to it - it’s already looking very nice and crisp.
Are there any equivalents to the Vallejo Air Light Rust undershade? Maybe in the game color line of vallejo?
Basically, you want a light brown. Someone said terrcotta. In general, any light ruddy brown should be fine.
What about going to white at the deepest recesses? Would that be too hot for the bird specifically, or do you usually not go that bright with fires?
I don't tend to go to white, but you certainly can (thought I would recommend still having a slight hint of yellow in there, pure white is going to ring false). That being said, all you would do is not apply the yellow ink as a wash, but apply it the same way I did the orange, red and other colors. The hotter the fire, the more likely the white will exist.
Hi Vince. Can't seem to get the red warcolours glaze you reference. Can you suggest a suitable alternative please? Many thanks.
Sure, any red ink or red contrast would work the same. :)
What's the difference between "bone color" base & ivory? Is there a difference? Also: on your flaming sword video, you used a tiny bit of black at some of the tips, I kind of expected that here.
I am about to paint fire for the first time; this is a "rewatch" (as MANY of your videos are 😍) for me in preparation. 🔥💛🔥💛🔥
Bone traditionally has a little more yellow/brown than Ivory. Glad the videos help. :)
What are your go to Varnishes? I normally use testors dull coat but have been having issues with it not knocking out all the shine on any inks/gloss Varnishes used when weathering.
Testor's Dull Cote is usually my go to as well, but I prefer the thing to be completely matte. I don't like a whole mini to be satin or gloss (and even Matte Varnish from things like Vallejo tend to have a slight sheen). My best advice in this case, when you have things you want to be shiny (metal comes to mind), is to do everything you want to be matte, then use your varnish, then do the other items. Those won't be as absolutely protected (but most paint and thin glazes like that are fairly durable) and you will have control of the reflections.
Vince Venturella Thanks for the response. I am wondering if I have "dull" coat. Because it's more satin than anything else.
How would you paint green fire like warpflame? One of my warlocks is standing on a pillar of flame but I can't use my airbrush to do a reverse zenithal due to overspray.
Much the same overall process, but I would travel from bright yellow green at the lower part up to dark green with a little black at the highest point.
I have a video on Warpstone (which has the same color progression) here - czcams.com/video/ORYDnYRq-z4/video.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
Here is a pink fire for another example in a different color scheme - czcams.com/video/8t35U2Dikt8/video.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
Here is painting Warpstone Glow (which shows the colors again) - czcams.com/video/o0MoPXWsdUo/video.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
@@VinceVenturella thank you very much!
I have an Fire elemental, only Flames on head and Arms rest of the Body smooth, how can i paint the heat in? :)
The simple answer is what you see here on just the fire parts (i.e. make sure those are brightly colored as a base, whether through primer or a bright ivory base coat), then treat the figure more or less as normal. You can go with some char (basically think dark black/brown/red near the root of the flames.
Do you have a video on how to paint and eagles beak ? And talons?
Not specifically, but in general, it's the same process as many of the bone and claw videos I have.
Also, if I wanted to make it look hotter than just the yellow ink, could I just leave some of the primer exposed and go over it with white mixed with the yellow ink?
Yep, you are exactly correct. It takes VERY, VERY little white/yellow to create that intense heat, but it works.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince
How saturated is your War Colours Orange? Is it comparable to GW Fire Bright Orange?
It's a little thinner than Fire Bright Orange, but roughly the same color.
Vince, I'm pretty sure that you had a video on making warpaint on your bacon but i can not find it anywhere in your channel. Can you please tell me if it went missing or it is just me starting to loosing my mind ?
try the videos hobby cheating 64 for tattoos which are basicly done the same like warpaint but maybe with some "fresher" paint. so less blending in the actual skin would be needed. a kind of warpaint for armor ist also shown in hobby cheating 109
Demon is correct, I haven't done a video on it specifically. I will make sure to add it to the list. The short answer of the difference with tattoos is that it sits completely on top of the skin and should have a small amount of mass. So you want a little thicker and dryer paint basically scraped (it should miss the low recesses or wrinkles like a drybrush) but is applied much more carefully.
Hope that helps in the interim.
This might be one area where the diminishing returns for using anything beyond speed paint and dry brushing is not great.
Is Vallejo Skeleton Bone Surface Primer equivalent to what you used for primer in this video?
Should be very close yes.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks. What brand of primer did you use, that is if you can remember?
Stynelrez bone color.
Hey Vince what could I use if I do not have any ink to use and just paint?
Any yellow paint will honestly work, just thin it out a little.
@@VinceVenturella Gotcha thanks! I have found that the Vallejo air paints are fun to use for things like that. Been practicing my wet blending. I put them right onto the wet pallet and can build the tone up nice and easy.
Mine didnt look great but i repeated the steps one more time then it came out amazing
Awesome
How would've you do this on a sword? Also could you do this with contrasts?
THe core base of the sword near the hilt would be the hottest part, moving very quickly through a short volume of yellow and orange and into deep brown/red and black at the edges of the blade.
Something like this would be a little harder with contrast, because like washes, they are made to settle in the lower parts and you are trying to put the color on the higher raised edges. That being said, you could use the contrast for part of the work if you were just trying to turn everything yellow (such as the early step here).
Should fire be gloss or flat?
Matte, completely matte. The reason is you don't white white "hot" spots in the darker parts of your fire (i.e. the orange/red) as that white will ruin the illusion.
why are everyone that paint fire choses carbon based fire(yellow-red) why not something more exotic like potassium based fire(purple-pink)?
Well, in this case, i wanted standard fire since that was the goal of the lesson, but it's a good point that there is a lot more interesting things you can do with the colors.
@@VinceVenturella Didn't expect that you would answer my question, so thank you and I will mention that, this was a great tutorial/lesson on making fire on minis look better.
@@MeisterReaper I always try to reply to everything (try), but thanks, glad it was helpful and you reminded me I should add an alternate fire colors tutorial to my list. :)
Could you show people how to do this with more commonly and less costly available paints?
So the key is the specific paints I used don't really matter. Any brand can work, so any yellow, a deeper orange, and a deep red/brown black. Those are the keys.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks,I try to follow along very specifically with what I use and use CZcams like an instruction manual so I try to do things exactly as I see them.
My OCD is freaking the fuck out on your paint palette
I don't clean it very often. :)
talk about fire , did you know any manufacture do make resin fire ? i mean real fire like in a burning log or burning can.
So Hirst Arts molds has several fires you can make (that's where i get my logs, small fires and campfires). There are dungeon terrain sets that have fires, though I don't remember the manufacturer. There are also some fires in the bones set.