Looks like this Link won't fit the Ripmo V1, and if it does, I am sure the numbers won't look as nice as it does with the Ripmo V2. If there is any bike that needs more progression, is the Ripmo V1 ! BTW , I bought a Cascade Link for my Bronson V3 about 3 years ago, and just love it. My BV3 is my favorite Park Bike, and even prefer it over my DH Bike for the "Big Ski Resort and Bike Parks"
Cascade link went over center over compressed rear shock jamb rear tire against seatpost I went over the bars took 3 mechanics to pull it out sent link and frame to cascade for evaluation and they could not find anything wrong except minor bearing wear and they sent all it back said tuff pal we can’t find any fault with our product. Lesson learned Factory engineers design frames best not to try to make a frame travel further than it was designed for! Now I’m stuck with a damaged $4k carbon frame front triangle. I changed back to Santa Cruz standard link to be safe. I have videos without shock on that I sent to cascade they you can see how link allows head of bolt gouge into frame and jamb
You may not have to, but removing them is only three bolts (if shock and yoke are removed together) and certainly makes the upper link a lot easier to install
@@CascadeComponentsYeah, ended up taking the yoke off. Definitely helped. I had alot of trouble re-aligning the bolts through the link to the frame without cross threading though. Any tips for that in the future?
@@ScruffyRoosevelt That one is tricky because it's different on every frame. What it boils down to is the tolerance for alignment on these frames is very tight. When any metal is welded it moves around a bit. This makes it harder for the alignment to be perfect on the AF frames than on the carbon ones. There's also more variation in alignment too. On frames where alignment is especially tricky, we usually remove the lower link, assemble the upper link onto the bike, and then reattach the lower link. Having the lower link off gives a little extra freedom and then the lower link is easier to get on when alignment is off than the upper link.
All that info is on their website. The Ripmo AF only requires the upper link, not the shock yoke, so it's cheaper. The AF also gets a small bump in rear travel to 151mm, where the V2 retains it's 147mm.
Any plans to make a mullet conversion link for the Ripmo or RAF?
Cascade Components 2021 Commencal Meta AM Installation would make a great video title.
Will this fit the Ripmo V1 ?
Looks like this Link won't fit the Ripmo V1, and if it does, I am sure the numbers won't look as nice as it does with the Ripmo V2. If there is any bike that needs more progression, is the Ripmo V1 ! BTW , I bought a Cascade Link for my Bronson V3 about 3 years ago, and just love it. My BV3 is my favorite Park Bike, and even prefer it over my DH Bike for the "Big Ski Resort and Bike Parks"
Cascade link went over center over compressed rear shock jamb rear tire against seatpost I went over the bars took 3 mechanics to pull it out sent link and frame to cascade for evaluation and they could not find anything wrong except minor bearing wear and they sent all it back said tuff pal we can’t find any fault with our product. Lesson learned Factory engineers design frames best not to try to make a frame travel further than it was designed for! Now I’m stuck with a damaged $4k carbon frame front triangle. I changed back to Santa Cruz standard link to be safe. I have videos without shock on that I sent to cascade they you can see how link allows head of bolt gouge into frame and jamb
Do you make a link for the Ibis ripley AF?
With the RIP AF link is it required that you remove the shock and yoke?
You may not have to, but removing them is only three bolts (if shock and yoke are removed together) and certainly makes the upper link a lot easier to install
Will your link work with a v1 Ripmo?
No loctite?
What’s the advantage over the one provided by Ibis❓
Check their website. Increases the progression on the rear.
Does the yoke fit the RIPMO AF? Would it work?
The link doesn't need the yoke on the AF
Is it nessasary to totally remove the yoke if done on the af?
If you're sneaky you can likely do it without removing the yoke. Having the extra room is nice and it's super quick to remove though.
@@CascadeComponentsYeah, ended up taking the yoke off. Definitely helped. I had alot of trouble re-aligning the bolts through the link to the frame without cross threading though. Any tips for that in the future?
@@ScruffyRoosevelt That one is tricky because it's different on every frame. What it boils down to is the tolerance for alignment on these frames is very tight. When any metal is welded it moves around a bit. This makes it harder for the alignment to be perfect on the AF frames than on the carbon ones. There's also more variation in alignment too. On frames where alignment is especially tricky, we usually remove the lower link, assemble the upper link onto the bike, and then reattach the lower link. Having the lower link off gives a little extra freedom and then the lower link is easier to get on when alignment is off than the upper link.
May I ask how Is the advantage of this custom linkage? Does it fit also to Ripmo AF?
All that info is on their website. The Ripmo AF only requires the upper link, not the shock yoke, so it's cheaper. The AF also gets a small bump in rear travel to 151mm, where the V2 retains it's 147mm.