Amazing, a top 10 ranking purely based on Amazon ratings, that's almost rocket science. I bet most of those kits are produced in the same chinese factory.
The Bafang/ 8fun BBSHD mid drive is my go-to option. It is rated and stamped at 750w, but some dealers(Lunacycle) offer a 1500w "upgrade". When that seems too tame for you, no prob....just go back to Lunacycle and get a Ludicrous controller which is rated for 3000w!!!! All the while the motor is still stamped at 750, meaning its "street legal". I have almost 5000 miles on mine and it tops out at 50MPH on flats with an 8spd IGH. Best of all worlds......plus it fits nearly every bike out there.
mid-drives are a waste for most bikes. You could get the same in an TDCM with an integrated IGH and Grin Phaserunner. Or Grin's All-Axle Motor which does fit every bike out there, unlike the BBSHD.
Are these kits priced with battery included? ? Its always the battery tht comes down to the crunch! ! Which to choose? How many ah will be suffice for motor?? Ya no, etc etc. ...... I've learned the 48v 20ah battery is supposed be adequate for up to 1500w hub motors? I'm currently in the process of my first ebike conversion project.....I've decided to replace EVERYTHING on the bike before hand, this way it's all brand new and fresh Yeh? I'm now in the market for which rear hub motor to choose?? Any suggestions wud be respectively appreciated by the way........it's fair to say I'm paying attention to every detail in my journey of this project..... I've been left partially disabled so to speak as a result of a serious near fatal traffic accident - so I'm unable to actually perform a full rotation on the pedals, hence my decision to go down the route of having an ebike for commuting rather than a mobility scooter!!!! I'm not an OAP as yet! !!
I liked the information in the video, but it's confusing when they are talking about a kit and showing bikes with something completely different on them at the same time....
Did u succeed with this conversion?? I tort about my self one time also! Like a chopper type bike? Laid back big leather seat etc etc??? Wud be awesome like, I've never seen a one on here to be honest!
After having owned hub and mid drive motor kits I will never go back to a hub kit again. Mid drives take the same sized battery, and give you much more range and torque since you have access to your bike's drive gears like a car. Too bad you didn't include the bafang mid drive in your list. The 750w one I have with a 17.5ah battery gets me 50+ miles on throttle alone and 125+ on pedal assist using the shifting method. You might also want to mention when showing motor sizes, max speeds, and throttle vs pedal assist options for people to check their local laws on what's allowed.
I've had a couple hub motors, but thus far the Voilamart has been my favorite. Be careful what you buy though, some hub motors have some serious torque and without a torque brace they'll rip themselves right out of the lugs, if not just round them out. I'd love to try a mid motor, but gods, the kit and battery to run it cost more than the whole trike setup I built with a hub motor, trike price included.
I've been looking at a voilà mart 1000w front hub motor kit on ebay, would u recommend this? And also what battery would an experienced e biker such as yourself recommend please? 😃 Any help would be appreciated
@@chrisplayz253 The one I have on my trike and still going strong after 2 and a half years. I believe the kit requires a 48v battery. I got a big brick of a battery with 36ah limit but it's pretty big. fits on the trike fine but a regular two wheeler you may have to go smaller. Also if your bike is a two wheeler, try to go rear hub. Front hub isn't good for a two wheeler I'd also suggest you go lithium for the battery, they're lighter than lead acid batteries so you can get a bigger battery than if you go lead acid. And if you do and plan to have the bike sitting out in cold weather, make sure the battery is removable. Lithium batteries don't like the cold and you'll lose charge while over time damaging the battery
@@panzerwolf494 perfect answer! Thanks so much! One last question for you if you can the connections from the battery to the kit are they universal as long as I buy an e bike specific battery? I've seen other non e bike batteries that meet the spec but are cheaper but I don't know if the connections would match up. What did u buy? Thanks again mate 😃👍
@@chrisplayz253 The battery I got had no connectors attached, they came with it though. I guess that should be something you look into when buying a battery. Mine came with the gray Anderson connectors and works great. Also, forgot about this. Get a Maxi fuse set to replace the little blade fuse thing with the bike kit. Both the plug and fuse are a lot bigger and designed to take stronger loads. Those little fuses aren't meant for the load an ebike needs and will eventually melt because the power won't exceed the amp rating, but the heat will cause it to just burn and melt till the heat destroys the fuse. Not a fun time.
Fair enough. I just bought an e-bike.Decent bike 1000w 48v battery.30odd mph. Just checked everything and brakes and all pieces that needed tightened up. Orr expensive, but you need a reasonable bike to begin with.
This isn't a review it's a sales pitch. Even 250w , the only legal size, is heavy enough to destroy the rim or worse if you hit a hole with only a thin tyre. 2.1 wide would be the minimum. And front drive is just plain dangerous with anything but dry roads. Also the pictures have relation to the narrative.
Pretty much every tandem rider I know would disagree with 2.1 "being the minimum". If you have garbage tires and cheap rims, 3 kilos of motor might possibly be the straw that broke the camel's back, but typically, weight on the front rim will vary more than that with a change in riders or riding position. If your front wheel is that close to failure mode, then you have a bad front wheel. Front drive with a 300w motor is unlikely to get you in any trouble, unless you're on ice. A 2kw monster, on the other hand is almost guaranteed to break traction. A little less dogma and a little more bounds of reason should be the guide.
Agree, drawback is you got to reinforce the front mount for the wheel though. Front forks were never designed with torque in mind. Just think of it, your going 15, 20 mph and the torque twists the front wheel out of it's mounting. That's never going to end well. I got lucky and was at a full stop when mine 'twisted' out as I hit the throttle. I was counting my lucky stars that day!
@@sammiller6631 Or get a cheap kit and buy the torque arm separately like I did save it was a two pack. So my bases are covered but to your point most kits are sold without than with but I definitely know better than to do without the extra reinforcement to the frame. Kit can kill you without it.
As a child watching Christmas advets. at the bottom of any electric toy commercial. You would read: "Batteries not included" here we see "Compatibility" battery packs 48V or 52V are around 10 USD per Volt. Bike, kit and battery, think upon it.
Awesome videos I like your all videos but this is very useful to me because I thought that I would buy 1st e bike kit I saw my father he told me that he will ordered it in the next week I am very happy for that and very thankful to your group of top 10 zone thank you so much you and your all group members . I love your channel and your all videos .
At 6:13 you say "amazing user ratings". I must point out that there are only TWO user ratings on your screenshot and one gives the kit only TWO STARS!!!. If that's amazing then you've got me beat. Using this evidence I'll discount your review - sorry but just repeating Amazon's adverts ain't a review
I have built dozens of ebike conversion kits many mentioned in the top 10 . if I am asked I would steer first time ebike builder and rider to go with a rear hub motor kit. My personal choice is Voila Mart 48 volt 26 inch 1000 to 1500 watt systems. these feel more like an electric motorcycle with the torque off the line using the throttle and they have the "blue wire" Which You Should Never Disconnect! because it unlock the speed limiter...Couple of things to know before the build, make sure you feed all your wiring on just one side of you bike frame don't weave it and always leave the motor wire slack on the fork it is mounted to so you can change flats without a major pain. I really don't like mid drive for a few reasons but none are their performance, they can climb a wall, BUT. IT ain't that easy converting a standard bicycle to mid drive without a few specialty tools and hope a robot did not put the bottom bracket on. Plus as bad as demo can be some time installation tends to be pretty straight forward. Next thing will be the chain, most on bikes don't hold up well over time with mid drive tugging on them so special chain to add to build and cost and mid drives are three time more expensive as the Motor hub kits. Hub kits are as easy as changing a tire and hanging the gear and controller I can built a kit in one morning and be out test riding it after lunch. One thing this great video failed to mention is battery. The battery is the heart and power of your build it can make or break you so here is the skinny go 48 volt 20 ah 1600 watt Hailong triangle bag battery with Panasonic cells. this will fit most all frames fine and works with all those kits in a perfect marriage of power and range plus you will already be ahead of the curve for powering you next built. yes you will.
A linguistic tip, normally you wouldn't say the price of something as"five fifty dollars", the reason is, when English natives specify lower-priced items like such as a cup of coffee we'd say "three-fifty" and we'd understand that to be $3.50, "three fifty dollars" ($350) is jarring to the ear. saying the full "three-hundred fifty dollars" sounds more natural. Not a big issue, just wanted to share some advice :D
Also English speakers do not put the small number in front, if there is a bigger one ie in 10, 20, - infinity. So a $15 is not 5 10 dollar, but fifteen etc. Only none English speakers put the smaller number in front, ie the germans, dutch. etc - vierundzwanzig , vierentwintig.
I converted my Electra Townie Violamart 1500-watt rear drive 72v 40ah battery it can go around 45-50 mph. I spent under $900. It's pretty sketchy over 45 mph though.
Do any of these kits recharge when I'm pedaling?, lets say the battery dies in the middle of nowhere, which will recharge by pedaling, also what is the range, speed is important but range is more I think.
Not a chance and if it was charging it would actually drag on the very work you are putting in! Generators resist turning because the physical power you put in is getting resisted by the magnetic fields of the motor and converting it into electrical power. I hate to tell you but this is actually a very poor conversion, the extra drag your forced versus the power you get back from charging the batteries is going to be around 12%. So if you don't mind pedaling twice as hard for about 10 miles, you might be able to cruise for 1.2 miles?!? Before the battery dies again?!? LOL. Just be glad the inactive motor isn't trying to convert it's motion into electrical power to recharge the battery because you may find yourself PUSHING a bike that doesn't want to roll instead of just biting the bullet and just simplify pedaling home with a bike that simply has an extra 40 pounds of dead weight or closer to 90 if you used lead batteries. Good news that extra weight doesn't affect you that much on level ground. Hills, another story. Good news, if you pedal with your system you can easily extend your range depending on 'how' much work you put into it. What work the motor doesn't do does translate to the batteries discharging slower. So simply pedaling with the system without tiring yourself out, you could easily extend your range a good 20%. So instead of letting the motor do ALL the work for 20 miles then dying, you may get 24 instead. It all depends on how much you make the motor work. Same note, going slower means the motor is doing less acceleration and less work to keep a lower speed so naturally means going slower means going farther. That's the general rule with ALL vehicles. It's spelled out even more with electric vehicles, at a stop the motor isn't running unlike the gas counterparts. There's also one more point. Ever notice your batteries get warm getting charged? That heat is energy that didn't get converted to electrical energy. Imagine how much friction you'd have to create to cause that much heat yourself. Just that heat alone is gonna make you tired.
@@davideakin7434 Dumb idea right? Meh, give them what they asked for. It will be even more expensive on that note and they will get a serious workout on level ground. Not exactly the reason they got the motor to begin with, right? LOL. Worst, the conversion of physical force versus electrical power converted is a nightmare. But hey! Let them learn the hard and expensive way. That's life, live and learn! The 12% of power that saved stopping is nothing compared to the power of speeding up again. Like I said, bad math for something that barely extends range. If they seriously want extra range, petal the bike up to least 4 mph THEN engage the motor. It's being stopped to getting up to speed that's actually the biggest power drain on the battery for the time period. Cruising is actually just that, cruising unless you like speed, on that note the faster you go the faster you discharge the battery, just like any other vehicle. It's that annoying thing called wind resistant and friction. The faster you go, the harder the air pushes against you.
VLAD eees planning adventure eeento Ukraine countryside:. Which kit eeees best for off-road? MTB? VLAD does not like look of motor that is mounted eeen front/below pedals (or anywhere that eees easy for ground-hit).
I have a folding bike that i want to convert to electric, but the drop-out is around 85mm. The kit i was about to buy needs a 100mm drop-out on the front forks. What are my options?
Hate to say but actually pretty good advice. HAD a 1000 watt e-bike kit myself. New one is the same save it has two wires to limit the motor to 750 watt range. Learned a few things though. Most bike frames can't handle the torque from the motors over the long terms unless you have a mid mounted motor. It's the question of torque from the motor to the actual frame where the wheel is mounted. Both front and back wheels of bikes were never designed with torque in mind. If you take note, the original bolts to both front and rear wheels connect with a round bolt. Even the act of just pedaling is just the chain pulling that rear wheel forwards cause zero torque. Throw a motor in the same spot, notice is a almost round bolt but two sides are flat and it's BARELY able to be squeezed in? For that motor to be able to transfer that power that bolt CAN NOT MOVE! This is toque against the very mounts for the wheels the bike frame was never designed for. Eventually if enough torque is applied the very mount will warp as that bolt slowly turns as the frame gives to it. One you see the mount begin to warp it's a dangerous sign your wheel is about to break loose. I got lucky as I was at a complete stop when I hit my throttle. Bike moved and inch, front e-motor wheel went an additional three as my horseshoe breaks keep the front wheel from completely flying off. Imagine if I was doing fifteen mph and I opened the throttle a little more and then that happened. Front wheel would of locked, handlebars twist instantly and for the most part you find yourself flying over your handlebars face first doing 15 mph plus. Worst, if you have 4 lead batteries on the frame, you got an almost fifty pound sledge hammer set to land on you cause you were just sitting over them. I seriously got lucky when I realized how this could of ended. Will a 750 watt limit end this problem? No. It will just happen over a longer period. Bike frame is still getting torque and it's still going to warp, granted slower. But hey, 15 mph isn't a bad speed and your still going to get where you were going twice as fast with little to no effort! Most people average 7 to 8 mph on a bike and are usually wiped out if they decide to push harder. Let me put it this way, job exactly 5 miles away and I could barely get there in about 35 minutes as a sweating dush bag. E-bike keeping it just under 20 mph (trying to keep it legal) to exactly 15 minutes and note even sweat stains under the arm pits. That's how liberating e-bikes FEEL! Kind of sucks your already heading into an eight hour shift (which I RARELY EVER GOT BREAKS UNLESS I WAS HEADING INTO OVERTIME) already friggen exhausted. Best thing, can't afford to own a car. You know that insurance and that yearly maintenance that usually blows your budget to hell. Single and cheap job usually means living expenses and not much past that. Cars are a perk. E-bikes, if your smart about them, lifesaver! But there's a steep learning curve there. Most important, learn how the bike can fail you and two... DON'T fly like a bat out of hell DOWN THE STREETS! Cops are gonna be that new best friend you definitely will have zero likings. Even when you know your legal (had a gas 49 cc bike I ALWAYS keep under 20 mph and according to PA laws then, as long as your at least 16 years of age, you motor was 50 cc's or less and kept your speed under twenty MPH. No driver license, insurance or registration is needed.) Instead he informed me he had $1,800 worth of fines to prove me wrong. Can't argue with that. Sold off my gas power bike and bought into the 'stealthier' e-bike. Simple, they can't hear you coming and you keep a safe speed, they have a lot less to pull you over for. Sad part, person who bought my old kit and I DID warn him about cops on the EAST side of town, hot dogged it and I'm thinking he was going too fast for a yellow light. That's a minor problem with ALL assessed bikes, they are too good at going faster than they can stop. If you see a green that been going for a bit, DON'T speed up and hope to get past it because they are geared for for cars and trucks that can stop much faster than YOU! If you think it might change on you... SLOW the FUCK down! Better than getting caught on a red light as a car T-bones you! Kid lived but he definitely got brain damage from it and was a near miracle he survived. E-bikes need a good dose of common sense to be used safely and get stupid once might be the last mistake you make, especially with speed.
@@jamesloll4601 Can't agree more with what you said. In NJ, ebikes were illegal until 2019. Hope the local police have been updated. Just bought a 500w kit (front wheel motor) and plan to keep a low profile when I start riding the ebike. I also will be carrying a copy of the NJ statute. You mentioned that most people only manage 7 to 8 mph. I was really disappointed the first time I calculated my average and it was only 8 mph. Like you said, doing 15 mph without the strain to my hip joint (I'm 70), will be a big improvement. My range on my road bike was about 4 miles out and back. I expect the range with it converted to ebike should be close to 10 miles out and back. My world without uber just got a lot bigger.
@@johngallagher912 Actually range depends on how many Amp hours your 36 or 48 volt system has. Hate to say but Lithium battery packs are the smart way to go. They are less than the quarter of the weight of lead batteries (first cheap set I got was FIFTY pounds and only had 12 Amp hours). Second problem with lead batteries is the weight. Most bikes can't handle your weight plus the lead batteries. It's hard to secure lead batteries to a frame that won't allow them to shift at all too. Believe me, your lead batteries shift, you'll definitely feel the bike pull that way. Still though I got almost 24 miles on that old set. Back to why lithium. current one I just bought is ONLY 6.5 pounds and has 25 Amp hours! Doing the math, on my old e-bike the new mileage should be just over 50 miles. Better because the bike just lost around 42 pounds off the old set of batteries. Now to compare prices, That old cheap set of four 12 volt batteries was around $90. Lithium... it a bit pricier but almost $190 after taxes. It's light enough I'd throw in in a backpack because it IS so expensive I'd be taking it in with me at work so it's harder for someone to steal and two, no battery fairs well in COLD weather. Freezing a battery will greatly shorten it's life. Simple advice, don't leave the batteries outside if not in use. There is one serious downside with lithium... if it shorts out it can and will catch on fire and even the fire department CAN'T put out a lithium fire. Kind of forced to let it burn itself out. Second reason for a backpack, your body it the best shock absorber to keep the lithium from feeling the worst jolts from the road as you hit, you know, potholes and such. There's a third reason too, it catches on fire your going to have fast reflexes to throw that backpack! If it's strapped to the bike, then everything is going to be a total loss. But back to range. Just like all vehicles, the faster you go, the less mileage you will get. Simple physics, the slower you go, the less hard the motor has to work to keep you going. Simple example you go 10 mph and get thirty miles. Double the speed and it may drop down to twenty miles. The other factor is hills, going up them will definitely shorten range but on the same note when you head back, simply coast down them! You don't even need to use the motor! Oh, by the way I'm not exactly young either. Just turned fifty and not in the best of shape anymore and I have a bad back from early years of hard labor and pushing harder than was smarter for me. The holy grail of back pains... the pinched nerve. Had days where I couldn't even stand and was exceedingly painful just to roll out of bed. You know it's bad when you crawl painfully to the bathroom. Unfortunate cure is to FORCE your back to work again and force your way through the pain. If you don't, being inactive seriously slows down the back's healing. Sucks getting old, hehehe, but us lucky ones live to get old! Well, I hope I gave you a few good pointers, been e-biking for a few years and learned the hard way a lot of the short-comings of e-bikes. Well I done ranting and I hope you good luck with your project. Me? Got a new one too! I'm upgrading to an E-TRIKE! Trikes are more unstable at higher speeds but on the same note I want a work horse, NOT a SPEED DEMON. A heavy duty trike can easily support my 220 pound frame and STILL easily hold a hundred pounds of groceries to boot. Grocery store is a twenty minute walk. No problem. Load a backpack with 50 or 60 pounds of groceries?!? I'm kinda getting too old for that!
@@1953mazda Thanks... been forever since I actually committed on E bikes. E-trike actually worked out surprisingly well but mileage too a serous hit but on the same note? As long as my current setup is good at five miles out and back? Even with a load of 100 pounds of groceries? I can't complain.
Yup, I found this annoying, front wheel conversions illustrated by back wheel motors, and even some images of bikes without motors, but the obligatory pretty girl. I don't recommend this video.
I am surprised that you didn’t have the IMortor3 conversion kit review. Just brought one & so far so good. Very easy to set up. Battery fits on the wheel.
Hello I am from London.. I want to buy E bike conversion kit but i don't know where i can find this.. Can anyone help me?? Cause here most of the cycle shop ask a huge amount for conversion kits
Why aren't the cheaper conversion kits (that are "identical" to those on your list.) included in your lists? While shopping and reviewing products before making purchases I encounter your videos very often, but always find that the products you showcase aren't always the cheapest. Even though they are identical to the cheaper options I've found.
@@rich-qk7dc Is it that, or is it because there is a huge demand for commodities as the economy opens in full? Are you sure its not because of the abnormal circumstances of the past year, or do you really think its because of a politician you don't like?
They're only rated at 750w because that's the legal limit in the US. Theyre plenty more powerful you just have to unleash their potential. 750w and 19mph is the limit.
BEWARE... The products he's talking about bear no relevance to what's on screen. For a video supposedly providing clarity on the market, they've done an excellent job of misinformation. |:
Problems with AW rear wheel conversion kit. The problem my bike shop said is that my Shimano crank is tapered and the PAS takes up room so that my crank will not slide back on all the way, I can tighten the bolt but the crank is not seated all the way and the bike shop said it will eventually wear out the crank arm since it is not tightly seated. Is there a PAS system that will work in this case? Also the derailer rubs in top gear and the bike shop said no way to fix except to adjust to lose the top gear.
Most PAS sensors are just a dozen or so magnets on a ring and a Hall-effect sensor. Your bike shop is right that the cranks must seat all the way on the tapers, or they will absolutely fail. They are wrong in being too lacking in any degree of mechanical ability to adapt a little. The ring may have to be modified, but that shouldn't be insurmountable. Having said that, most of these sensor systems work the same and if it's just a 2-wire sensor, should be pretty compatible, and they are pretty cheap - less than $10 typically. The derailleur issue is just weird - if you're using the same gearing, nothing about that should change.
Just another useless video on CZcams. 10 best conversion kits based on what technical information? And is showing eBay fake feedback and stars any help??
@@suyeshlamsal5840 "Did I Make You Cry On Christmas Day? (Well, You Deserved It!)" This time of year you always disappear You tell me not to call You tell me not to call And when the door is closed you're wearing different clothes Or hiding in the paper, pretending not to hear Inexpensive wine I buy it all the time You tell me take it back You say you'll take a nap But I can see it now You always tell me how I could do so much better You said it in your letter Did I make you cry On Christmas day? Did I let you down Like every other day? Did I make you cry On Christmas day? Did I let you down On Christmas day? The bed that isn't made The broken window shade The radiator's on I loved you all along But I can see it now You always tell me how I could do so much better You said it in your letter I stay awake at night After we have a fight I'm writing poems about you And they aren't very nice I didn't mean to yell I said I couldn't tell I only grabbed your wrist Or would you rather we kissed? Did I make you cry On Christmas day? Did I make you cry Like every other day? Did I make you cry On Christmas day? Did I make you cry?
Hit the nail on the head. Kit is HALF the price. The batteries are JUST AS EXPENSIVE! Better yet their is no standard for the batteries so you may find yourself 'hardwiring' them into your new kits. Luckily they are not that hard to figure out. Just match those thick red and black wires and your good to go.
@@jamesloll4601 I got a kit for £187 on Amazon the cheapest battery was £219. Hopefully as e bikes become more and more popular the price of the batteries will drop.
@@catthomas5505 Yeah? But what good is that if the Amp Hours happen to be much less than advertised and then stuck with a lithium battery that SAYS it's 35 AH when in reality it's maybe 7 AH? And worst? You could of gotten about fifty pounds of lead cell batteries at about 14 AH at better than half the price?!? Lithium battery packs are definitely much more expensive and it's a nasty hit or miss thing, more on the missing side. :( :[ Ripoff artists... Maybe I got unlucky or maybe that's the norm but I'm NOT rich enough to try multiple buyers. If it sounds too good, odds are it is. Just annoyed my 14 AH lead set got me 25 miles on average and MY new Lithium rated 35 AH barely did ten miles new. It's gotten older and it's not even getting five miles anymore and I barely used it two months. Has me swearing like a sailor as I KNOW I got SERIOUSLY oversold at a pretty penny too. NEVER BUYING FROM THEM AGAIN unless I have brain damage! I bought into lithium because of their advertised AH versus weight. AH was definitely over rated, BADLY.
Buying a 80cc gas motor and putting it on a bike it's still cheaper than the e motorbikes the 80cc Japanese motor runs between 80 and $120 which is 100 to 200 to $300 cheaper
I note kits do not appear to include the battery so they remain expensive. Also, the drawback is most have only 26-inch wheel motors. Till e- bike conversion kits which include the battery is priced at under £100, they are not worth buying.
How much you think a lithium ion battery with decent cells should cost ? You can get them with the cheap Chinese cells for cheap but they wont last. The Samsung or Panasonic 18650 cell is the decent standard and they're like 5 bucks apiece and you need 14x7 of them for a 48v 14amp battery. Close to 300$ a good hub motor kit is at least 350$ the kits come in all size wheels also.
2:27 its not even three minutes in and you are asking for subscription? Wait untill atleast the three quarter mark so people actually know the quality of your content before subscribing.
I tried to order an ebike after thinking about it over a year and fed ex could not get it delivered to my house. I tried telling them to deliver it after five when i got off work and they wouldn't do it. If you are an ebike company i would think about using a different company to ship your ebikes. They only use a call center in India as there customer service. You can not speak directly to a FedEx representative. They are terrible at getting a package delivered to there customer, beware. Now they are saying the label is scratched and it can not be scanned. i can not even go pick it up. I should of had it almost a week ago. Now it has to go all the way back to the warehouse.
Your effort is appreciated but, respectfully, you sound as if you have no real knowledge of e-bike tech. Due to this, your ratings are also , imho, not listed properly. I agree with the Bafang kit being first - I am not a fan of mid-drive systems, but that is the way the industry is moving and the Bafang motor is quality equipment. I believe the E-Bikeling kit should have been second - the parts are of decent quality, but their customer service is also competent and available. Not every kit company will stand behind their product the same way....that needs to be considered. The other kits mostly have similar components, but also have power restrictions or speed limitations due to inferior quality. Your list of statistics between each kit presentation was not consistent, as you gave different info for each kit - that can be misleading. Also, there should be some discussion to the differences between the types of drives you presented - front, rear and mid-drive all have pros and cons that could have been addressed. I love ebikes... I have purchased and used ebike kits... I want to see more people on ebikes... but I want them to have fun and be safe as well. There is a difference between inexpensive... and cheap. Moving forward, please take more care. Thank you.
Why are you not keen on mid drive?just asking coz looking at buying one and need all the information I can get.when I go to bike shops they always point me toward mid drive
@@johnnyboy1586 They point you to mid drive bikes because they keep running business on "expensive" and monopolized services. What is your budget, what bike you need and for what purpose? Do you already have the bike and only need the kit?
@@billadmond9450 I did have a bike I was looking at maybe putting a kit on but being obove knee amputee but couldn't find dropper post small enough to fit,anyway passed my old faithful on to my daughter and am looking at new models.probably go for 29ner for all round use.i know mid drives are well ballanced but chew through chains an sprockets and are expensive. I like the simplicity of rear hub but looks like all mtb are mid drive
It looks like you weren't aware of Bimotal's Elevate when putting this review together. 750W, the system weighs less than 2.5kg, it dismounts in 10 seconds.... All kinds of awesome! Check it out: czcams.com/video/IkFA8mlrHwg/video.html
Bicycle Accessories : czcams.com/video/GgXWRja1YiI/video.html
What most E-bike Manufacturers probably Don't Want You To Know about. Watch czcams.com/video/Xn-3x4wlIVA/video.html
Amazing, a top 10 ranking purely based on Amazon ratings, that's almost rocket science. I bet most of those kits are produced in the same chinese factory.
...and also look the same.
@@christophermikrowelle7093 At least he did not lie and tell one of the kits in his top 10 ranking is better or just different from all the others ;-)
Thank you for this comment, save me from watching this video
Just done for the views and content unfortunately
Yet you still watched the video when you could’ve gone to another video
The Bafang/ 8fun BBSHD mid drive is my go-to option. It is rated and stamped at 750w, but some dealers(Lunacycle) offer a 1500w "upgrade". When that seems too tame for you, no prob....just go back to Lunacycle and get a Ludicrous controller which is rated for 3000w!!!! All the while the motor is still stamped at 750, meaning its "street legal". I have almost 5000 miles on mine and it tops out at 50MPH on flats with an 8spd IGH. Best of all worlds......plus it fits nearly every bike out there.
I got a 1500w motor with integrated controller,tops out at 30mph.How can I upgrade the controller?
mid-drives are a waste for most bikes. You could get the same in an TDCM with an integrated IGH and Grin Phaserunner. Or Grin's All-Axle Motor which does fit every bike out there, unlike the BBSHD.
Bafang mid drives are cheap quality.
know of any tht deliver to the uk?
@@jordanwhite731 Grin delivers to the UK. They've been doing conversion kits for over 10 years: ebikes.ca/shop/ready-to-roll-kits.html
Are these kits priced with battery included? ? Its always the battery tht comes down to the crunch! ! Which to choose? How many ah will be suffice for motor?? Ya no, etc etc. ...... I've learned the 48v 20ah battery is supposed be adequate for up to 1500w hub motors? I'm currently in the process of my first ebike conversion project.....I've decided to replace EVERYTHING on the bike before hand, this way it's all brand new and fresh Yeh?
I'm now in the market for which rear hub motor to choose??
Any suggestions wud be respectively appreciated by the way........it's fair to say I'm paying attention to every detail in my journey of this project..... I've been left partially disabled so to speak as a result of a serious near fatal traffic accident - so I'm unable to actually perform a full rotation on the pedals, hence my decision to go down the route of having an ebike for commuting rather than a mobility scooter!!!! I'm not an OAP as yet! !!
many of the pictures dont match the narrative of the products being reviewed.....
I liked the information in the video, but it's confusing when they are talking about a kit and showing bikes with something completely different on them at the same time....
And some without any e kit at all!
I purchased an old fashioned cruiser and planning to converted. I choose the center motor because I don’t want to ruin the bike 🚲 rim design.
Did u succeed with this conversion?? I tort about my self one time also! Like a chopper type bike? Laid back big leather seat etc etc??? Wud be awesome like, I've never seen a one on here to be honest!
After having owned hub and mid drive motor kits I will never go back to a hub kit again. Mid drives take the same sized battery, and give you much more range and torque since you have access to your bike's drive gears like a car. Too bad you didn't include the bafang mid drive in your list. The 750w one I have with a 17.5ah battery gets me 50+ miles on throttle alone and 125+ on pedal assist using the shifting method. You might also want to mention when showing motor sizes, max speeds, and throttle vs pedal assist options for people to check their local laws on what's allowed.
I've had a couple hub motors, but thus far the Voilamart has been my favorite. Be careful what you buy though, some hub motors have some serious torque and without a torque brace they'll rip themselves right out of the lugs, if not just round them out. I'd love to try a mid motor, but gods, the kit and battery to run it cost more than the whole trike setup I built with a hub motor, trike price included.
I've been looking at a voilà mart 1000w front hub motor kit on ebay, would u recommend this? And also what battery would an experienced e biker such as yourself recommend please? 😃 Any help would be appreciated
@@chrisplayz253 The one I have on my trike and still going strong after 2 and a half years. I believe the kit requires a 48v battery. I got a big brick of a battery with 36ah limit but it's pretty big. fits on the trike fine but a regular two wheeler you may have to go smaller. Also if your bike is a two wheeler, try to go rear hub. Front hub isn't good for a two wheeler
I'd also suggest you go lithium for the battery, they're lighter than lead acid batteries so you can get a bigger battery than if you go lead acid. And if you do and plan to have the bike sitting out in cold weather, make sure the battery is removable. Lithium batteries don't like the cold and you'll lose charge while over time damaging the battery
@@panzerwolf494 perfect answer! Thanks so much! One last question for you if you can the connections from the battery to the kit are they universal as long as I buy an e bike specific battery? I've seen other non e bike batteries that meet the spec but are cheaper but I don't know if the connections would match up. What did u buy? Thanks again mate 😃👍
@@chrisplayz253 The battery I got had no connectors attached, they came with it though. I guess that should be something you look into when buying a battery. Mine came with the gray Anderson connectors and works great.
Also, forgot about this. Get a Maxi fuse set to replace the little blade fuse thing with the bike kit. Both the plug and fuse are a lot bigger and designed to take stronger loads. Those little fuses aren't meant for the load an ebike needs and will eventually melt because the power won't exceed the amp rating, but the heat will cause it to just burn and melt till the heat destroys the fuse. Not a fun time.
They are the same cheap Chinese hub motor.
You do know different companies put their names on.
Some companies may upgrade the rim.
Fair enough. I just bought an e-bike.Decent bike 1000w 48v battery.30odd mph. Just checked everything and brakes and all pieces that needed tightened up. Orr expensive, but you need a reasonable bike to begin with.
Actually 28mph but I call it 30 also :)
How about a just a little bit about three wheel upright conversion ?
maybe they should include a 27.5 rim, since that is the standard today instead of a 26
Thank you for your kind feedback!
They come in all sizes. My wife's is a 700c 1200w rear hub waterproof Ebikeling.
This isn't a review it's a sales pitch. Even 250w , the only legal size, is heavy enough to destroy the rim or worse if you hit a hole with only a thin tyre. 2.1 wide would be the minimum. And front drive is just plain dangerous with anything but dry roads. Also the pictures have relation to the narrative.
Always thought front drive was not a good idea. Stick with my bbso2b 48v 750w 28 mph and 40 miles range
750w is legal limit in US
Pretty much every tandem rider I know would disagree with 2.1 "being the minimum". If you have garbage tires and cheap rims, 3 kilos of motor might possibly be the straw that broke the camel's back, but typically, weight on the front rim will vary more than that with a change in riders or riding position. If your front wheel is that close to failure mode, then you have a bad front wheel.
Front drive with a 300w motor is unlikely to get you in any trouble, unless you're on ice. A 2kw monster, on the other hand is almost guaranteed to break traction. A little less dogma and a little more bounds of reason should be the guide.
Front drives are not dangerous. Stop spreading misconceptions.
Front wheel conversion is the snapiest, and distributes power almost equally.
Rear wheels are the best in my opinion. No chance of the wheel slipping because of the weight distribution
Agree, drawback is you got to reinforce the front mount for the wheel though. Front forks were never designed with torque in mind. Just think of it, your going 15, 20 mph and the torque twists the front wheel out of it's mounting. That's never going to end well. I got lucky and was at a full stop when mine 'twisted' out as I hit the throttle. I was counting my lucky stars that day!
@@jamesloll4601 oh yes, it's not designed to bear the torque of a driving wheel. Thank you.
@@jamesloll4601 Or get a front motor with an integrated torque arm like GrinTech does.
@@sammiller6631 Or get a cheap kit and buy the torque arm separately like I did save it was a two pack. So my bases are covered but to your point most kits are sold without than with but I definitely know better than to do without the extra reinforcement to the frame. Kit can kill you without it.
just repeating what the amazon add says
As a child watching Christmas advets. at the bottom of any electric toy commercial.
You would read: "Batteries not included" here we see "Compatibility" battery packs 48V or 52V
are around 10 USD per Volt. Bike, kit and battery, think upon it.
not only voltage make the price: ah (ampère per hour) make it too
Awesome videos I like your all videos but this is very useful to me because I thought that I would buy 1st e bike kit I saw my father he told me that he will ordered it in the next week I am very happy for that and very thankful to your group of top 10 zone thank you so much you and your all group members . I love your channel and your all videos .
At 6:13 you say "amazing user ratings". I must point out that there are only TWO user ratings on your screenshot and one gives the kit only TWO STARS!!!. If that's amazing then you've got me beat. Using this evidence I'll discount your review - sorry but just repeating Amazon's adverts ain't a review
Sorry for the inconvenience. We will work on that. Thank you.
i was about to watch the clip and stopped just seeing this comment
@@wolfmooch wut
Thanks for prevent me wasting my time watching further after reading your comment.
Thank you, I think imma get ebikling cause it rains a lot here
Do the kits not handle water very well?
I have built dozens of ebike conversion kits many mentioned in the top 10 . if I am asked I would steer first time ebike builder and rider to go with a rear hub motor kit. My personal choice is Voila Mart 48 volt 26 inch 1000 to 1500 watt systems. these feel more like an electric motorcycle with the torque off the line using the throttle and they have the "blue wire" Which You Should Never Disconnect! because it unlock the speed limiter...Couple of things to know before the build, make sure you feed all your wiring on just one side of you bike frame don't weave it and always leave the motor wire slack on the fork it is mounted to so you can change flats without a major pain. I really don't like mid drive for a few reasons but none are their performance, they can climb a wall, BUT. IT ain't that easy converting a standard bicycle to mid drive without a few specialty tools and hope a robot did not put the bottom bracket on. Plus as bad as demo can be some time installation tends to be pretty straight forward. Next thing will be the chain, most on bikes don't hold up well over time with mid drive tugging on them so special chain to add to build and cost and mid drives are three time more expensive as the Motor hub kits. Hub kits are as easy as changing a tire and hanging the gear and controller I can built a kit in one morning and be out test riding it after lunch. One thing this great video failed to mention is battery. The battery is the heart and power of your build it can make or break you so here is the skinny go 48 volt 20 ah 1600 watt Hailong triangle bag battery with Panasonic cells. this will fit most all frames fine and works with all those kits in a perfect marriage of power and range plus you will already be ahead of the curve for powering you next built. yes you will.
A linguistic tip, normally you wouldn't say the price of something as"five fifty dollars", the reason is, when English natives specify lower-priced items like such as a cup of coffee we'd say "three-fifty" and we'd understand that to be $3.50, "three fifty dollars" ($350) is jarring to the ear. saying the full "three-hundred fifty dollars" sounds more natural. Not a big issue, just wanted to share some advice :D
Also English speakers do not put the small number in front, if there is a bigger one ie in 10, 20, - infinity. So a $15 is not 5 10 dollar, but fifteen etc. Only none English speakers put the smaller number in front, ie the germans, dutch. etc - vierundzwanzig , vierentwintig.
I converted my Electra Townie Violamart 1500-watt rear drive 72v 40ah battery it can go around 45-50 mph. I spent under $900. It's pretty sketchy over 45 mph though.
Where did you buy the conversion kit and the name or model number
What happened to the bafang cost?
with old fashion cruiser with mechanical rear brakes only, what do these ebike kits use for brakes? Do you still use the existing brakes in the rear?
Is it possible to convert a mountain bike into a single speed duel electric motor with a middrive and front wheel drive?
So now I've seen what Amazon is selling where can I find the top 10 ebike conversion.
My voilamart front hub only goes 16 mph and battery is 3 or 4 miles before losing power
Finally something useful for my bike.
Good content 👍
Glad you think so!
Here in EU only under 300 W and with pedelec drive. Thumb throttle is forbidden.
Do any of these kits recharge when I'm pedaling?, lets say the battery dies in the middle of nowhere, which will recharge by pedaling, also what is the range, speed is important but range is more I think.
Some do, but you should never run your battery down to zero.
Not a chance and if it was charging it would actually drag on the very work you are putting in! Generators resist turning because the physical power you put in is getting resisted by the magnetic fields of the motor and converting it into electrical power. I hate to tell you but this is actually a very poor conversion, the extra drag your forced versus the power you get back from charging the batteries is going to be around 12%. So if you don't mind pedaling twice as hard for about 10 miles, you might be able to cruise for 1.2 miles?!? Before the battery dies again?!? LOL. Just be glad the inactive motor isn't trying to convert it's motion into electrical power to recharge the battery because you may find yourself PUSHING a bike that doesn't want to roll instead of just biting the bullet and just simplify pedaling home with a bike that simply has an extra 40 pounds of dead weight or closer to 90 if you used lead batteries. Good news that extra weight doesn't affect you that much on level ground. Hills, another story. Good news, if you pedal with your system you can easily extend your range depending on 'how' much work you put into it. What work the motor doesn't do does translate to the batteries discharging slower. So simply pedaling with the system without tiring yourself out, you could easily extend your range a good 20%. So instead of letting the motor do ALL the work for 20 miles then dying, you may get 24 instead. It all depends on how much you make the motor work. Same note, going slower means the motor is doing less acceleration and less work to keep a lower speed so naturally means going slower means going farther. That's the general rule with ALL vehicles. It's spelled out even more with electric vehicles, at a stop the motor isn't running unlike the gas counterparts. There's also one more point. Ever notice your batteries get warm getting charged? That heat is energy that didn't get converted to electrical energy. Imagine how much friction you'd have to create to cause that much heat yourself. Just that heat alone is gonna make you tired.
I think they are looking for kits with regenerative braking.
@@davideakin7434 Dumb idea right? Meh, give them what they asked for. It will be even more expensive on that note and they will get a serious workout on level ground. Not exactly the reason they got the motor to begin with, right? LOL. Worst, the conversion of physical force versus electrical power converted is a nightmare. But hey! Let them learn the hard and expensive way. That's life, live and learn! The 12% of power that saved stopping is nothing compared to the power of speeding up again. Like I said, bad math for something that barely extends range. If they seriously want extra range, petal the bike up to least 4 mph THEN engage the motor. It's being stopped to getting up to speed that's actually the biggest power drain on the battery for the time period. Cruising is actually just that, cruising unless you like speed, on that note the faster you go the faster you discharge the battery, just like any other vehicle. It's that annoying thing called wind resistant and friction. The faster you go, the harder the air pushes against you.
VLAD eees planning adventure eeento Ukraine countryside:. Which kit eeees best for off-road? MTB? VLAD does not like look of motor that is mounted eeen front/below pedals (or anywhere that eees easy for ground-hit).
SO SHWEEEETTT...much love Tee with LIONS NAMED LEO.[the music worldwide}
....love all the new stuff..
Is number 6 jaxpety good? That one has caught my attention?
Answer will come in 7 years
I have a Falco 750 hub drive on order for my catrike 559
Are you able to tell me what is the widest it is rim for a 26" 1000 W mountain bike not a fat tire
H & L Batteries after having 3 are superb value!
I have a folding bike that i want to convert to electric, but the drop-out is around 85mm. The kit i was about to buy needs a 100mm drop-out on the front forks. What are my options?
czcams.com/video/NShs3Txa17c/video.html
This will help. I faced the same issue. I have widen my bike forks from 80 to over 100mm
Most states follow the federal standards which state that the motor can't be stronger than 750 watts and max speed under power can't be over 20 mph.
Hate to say but actually pretty good advice. HAD a 1000 watt e-bike kit myself. New one is the same save it has two wires to limit the motor to 750 watt range. Learned a few things though. Most bike frames can't handle the torque from the motors over the long terms unless you have a mid mounted motor. It's the question of torque from the motor to the actual frame where the wheel is mounted. Both front and back wheels of bikes were never designed with torque in mind. If you take note, the original bolts to both front and rear wheels connect with a round bolt. Even the act of just pedaling is just the chain pulling that rear wheel forwards cause zero torque. Throw a motor in the same spot, notice is a almost round bolt but two sides are flat and it's BARELY able to be squeezed in? For that motor to be able to transfer that power that bolt CAN NOT MOVE! This is toque against the very mounts for the wheels the bike frame was never designed for. Eventually if enough torque is applied the very mount will warp as that bolt slowly turns as the frame gives to it. One you see the mount begin to warp it's a dangerous sign your wheel is about to break loose. I got lucky as I was at a complete stop when I hit my throttle. Bike moved and inch, front e-motor wheel went an additional three as my horseshoe breaks keep the front wheel from completely flying off. Imagine if I was doing fifteen mph and I opened the throttle a little more and then that happened. Front wheel would of locked, handlebars twist instantly and for the most part you find yourself flying over your handlebars face first doing 15 mph plus. Worst, if you have 4 lead batteries on the frame, you got an almost fifty pound sledge hammer set to land on you cause you were just sitting over them. I seriously got lucky when I realized how this could of ended. Will a 750 watt limit end this problem? No. It will just happen over a longer period. Bike frame is still getting torque and it's still going to warp, granted slower. But hey, 15 mph isn't a bad speed and your still going to get where you were going twice as fast with little to no effort! Most people average 7 to 8 mph on a bike and are usually wiped out if they decide to push harder. Let me put it this way, job exactly 5 miles away and I could barely get there in about 35 minutes as a sweating dush bag. E-bike keeping it just under 20 mph (trying to keep it legal) to exactly 15 minutes and note even sweat stains under the arm pits. That's how liberating e-bikes FEEL! Kind of sucks your already heading into an eight hour shift (which I RARELY EVER GOT BREAKS UNLESS I WAS HEADING INTO OVERTIME) already friggen exhausted. Best thing, can't afford to own a car. You know that insurance and that yearly maintenance that usually blows your budget to hell. Single and cheap job usually means living expenses and not much past that. Cars are a perk. E-bikes, if your smart about them, lifesaver! But there's a steep learning curve there. Most important, learn how the bike can fail you and two... DON'T fly like a bat out of hell DOWN THE STREETS! Cops are gonna be that new best friend you definitely will have zero likings. Even when you know your legal (had a gas 49 cc bike I ALWAYS keep under 20 mph and according to PA laws then, as long as your at least 16 years of age, you motor was 50 cc's or less and kept your speed under twenty MPH. No driver license, insurance or registration is needed.) Instead he informed me he had $1,800 worth of fines to prove me wrong. Can't argue with that. Sold off my gas power bike and bought into the 'stealthier' e-bike. Simple, they can't hear you coming and you keep a safe speed, they have a lot less to pull you over for. Sad part, person who bought my old kit and I DID warn him about cops on the EAST side of town, hot dogged it and I'm thinking he was going too fast for a yellow light. That's a minor problem with ALL assessed bikes, they are too good at going faster than they can stop. If you see a green that been going for a bit, DON'T speed up and hope to get past it because they are geared for for cars and trucks that can stop much faster than YOU! If you think it might change on you... SLOW the FUCK down! Better than getting caught on a red light as a car T-bones you! Kid lived but he definitely got brain damage from it and was a near miracle he survived. E-bikes need a good dose of common sense to be used safely and get stupid once might be the last mistake you make, especially with speed.
@@jamesloll4601 Can't agree more with what you said.
In NJ, ebikes were illegal until 2019. Hope the local police have been updated. Just bought a 500w kit (front wheel motor) and plan to keep a low profile when I start riding the ebike. I also will be carrying a copy of the NJ statute.
You mentioned that most people only manage 7 to 8 mph. I was really disappointed the first time I calculated my average and it was only 8 mph. Like you said, doing 15 mph without the strain to my hip joint (I'm 70), will be a big improvement. My range on my road bike was about 4 miles out and back. I expect the range with it converted to ebike should be close to 10 miles out and back. My world without uber just got a lot bigger.
@@johngallagher912 Actually range depends on how many Amp hours your 36 or 48 volt system has. Hate to say but Lithium battery packs are the smart way to go. They are less than the quarter of the weight of lead batteries (first cheap set I got was FIFTY pounds and only had 12 Amp hours). Second problem with lead batteries is the weight. Most bikes can't handle your weight plus the lead batteries. It's hard to secure lead batteries to a frame that won't allow them to shift at all too. Believe me, your lead batteries shift, you'll definitely feel the bike pull that way. Still though I got almost 24 miles on that old set.
Back to why lithium. current one I just bought is ONLY 6.5 pounds and has 25 Amp hours! Doing the math, on my old e-bike the new mileage should be just over 50 miles. Better because the bike just lost around 42 pounds off the old set of batteries.
Now to compare prices, That old cheap set of four 12 volt batteries was around $90. Lithium... it a bit pricier but almost $190 after taxes. It's light enough I'd throw in in a backpack because it IS so expensive I'd be taking it in with me at work so it's harder for someone to steal and two, no battery fairs well in COLD weather. Freezing a battery will greatly shorten it's life. Simple advice, don't leave the batteries outside if not in use.
There is one serious downside with lithium... if it shorts out it can and will catch on fire and even the fire department CAN'T put out a lithium fire. Kind of forced to let it burn itself out. Second reason for a backpack, your body it the best shock absorber to keep the lithium from feeling the worst jolts from the road as you hit, you know, potholes and such. There's a third reason too, it catches on fire your going to have fast reflexes to throw that backpack! If it's strapped to the bike, then everything is going to be a total loss.
But back to range. Just like all vehicles, the faster you go, the less mileage you will get. Simple physics, the slower you go, the less hard the motor has to work to keep you going. Simple example you go 10 mph and get thirty miles. Double the speed and it may drop down to twenty miles. The other factor is hills, going up them will definitely shorten range but on the same note when you head back, simply coast down them! You don't even need to use the motor!
Oh, by the way I'm not exactly young either. Just turned fifty and not in the best of shape anymore and I have a bad back from early years of hard labor and pushing harder than was smarter for me. The holy grail of back pains... the pinched nerve. Had days where I couldn't even stand and was exceedingly painful just to roll out of bed. You know it's bad when you crawl painfully to the bathroom. Unfortunate cure is to FORCE your back to work again and force your way through the pain. If you don't, being inactive seriously slows down the back's healing. Sucks getting old, hehehe, but us lucky ones live to get old!
Well, I hope I gave you a few good pointers, been e-biking for a few years and learned the hard way a lot of the short-comings of e-bikes. Well I done ranting and I hope you good luck with your project. Me? Got a new one too! I'm upgrading to an E-TRIKE! Trikes are more unstable at higher speeds but on the same note I want a work horse, NOT a SPEED DEMON. A heavy duty trike can easily support my 220 pound frame and STILL easily hold a hundred pounds of groceries to boot. Grocery store is a twenty minute walk. No problem. Load a backpack with 50 or 60 pounds of groceries?!? I'm kinda getting too old for that!
@@jamesloll4601 Thank You for your insight on this subject.
@@1953mazda Thanks... been forever since I actually committed on E bikes. E-trike actually worked out surprisingly well but mileage too a serous hit but on the same note? As long as my current setup is good at five miles out and back? Even with a load of 100 pounds of groceries? I can't complain.
I have also such a conversion kit! 1000w front hub motor. You can see it on my channel! Amazingly performance up to 44mph!!! Best i know so far!
In Australia conversions cost upward of $1800 so not practical unfortunately.
So what happens when I use a 36v motor with a 24v battery?
Will it work?
Are all the batteries for the kits separate? Or is it not required?
yes important question
some of the pictures/video dont match the product
Yup, I found this annoying, front wheel conversions illustrated by back wheel motors, and even some images of bikes without motors, but the obligatory pretty girl. I don't recommend this video.
9:23 what is that on top of the rear rack?
I am surprised that you didn’t have the IMortor3 conversion kit review. Just brought one & so far so good. Very easy to set up. Battery fits on the wheel.
Is it fitted at home.? And regular bicycle can be converted to e-bike.? Please share email
@@dhanrajbhure6406 Yes. Remove front wheel put in IMortor wheel, use app on phone for speed.
@@silverfox6590 thanks, I'm in Saudi Arabia. I didn't find it online.
@@dhanrajbhure6406 if you can get into the site Banggood.com. That is where I brought mine.
@@silverfox6590 how has it been so far!
Why do many of your photos show regular bikes, not ebikes. Basically nothing matches.
Hello I am from London.. I want to buy E bike conversion kit but i don't know where i can find this.. Can anyone help me?? Cause here most of the cycle shop ask a huge amount for conversion kits
Why aren't the cheaper conversion kits (that are "identical" to those on your list.) included in your lists? While shopping and reviewing products before making purchases I encounter your videos very often, but always find that the products you showcase aren't always the cheapest. Even though they are identical to the cheaper options I've found.
would be useful if you post the links to that said cheaper alternatives
good morning, I want to ask you a question, compare with the rear drive motor and the front motor ,which is better?
I heard that it depends on the weight distribution within your bike
Rear will feel more natural. Front is easier to convert.
Rear wheel, your weight will be centered over the hub, therefore, more grip, more torque. Safer too
You are more likely to crash with a front wheel motor. Forks are not rigid enough.
Thank you...sir for your information
iv just hit the link for the aw rear wheel kit and its 997.99 euros,its 235 dollors in this video.thats some jump in price in just 2 yrs
Think his prices aren't including the battery which near doubles the price or shipping
All the prices went up since the video, by atleast 50%. Most are around $150 more expensive.
Damn, still beats a new electric bike though
Thank Joe Biden
@@rich-qk7dc I think its less joe bidens fault and more the massive global shortage of electronic components
@@Ry_TSG lumber, food, oil etc everything is going up due to Bidens policies
@@rich-qk7dc Is it that, or is it because there is a huge demand for commodities as the economy opens in full? Are you sure its not because of the abnormal circumstances of the past year, or do you really think its because of a politician you don't like?
You guys need to show top speed for all the options
THE LAW ON ELECTRIC BIKES IS 250 WHATTAGE ,BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU BUY, ANY LARGER WATTAGE MAKES THEM A MOTOR BIKE
They're only rated at 750w because that's the legal limit in the US. Theyre plenty more powerful you just have to unleash their potential.
750w and 19mph is the limit.
how do you know what battery or manufacturer of battery is compatible
Thank you for your valuable feedback.
We apologize your concern.
Can you please do video for fat bike edition 🙏🏻
Hi can i put 138mm hub in 135mm rear dropout?
it's possible
BEWARE... The products he's talking about bear no relevance to what's on screen. For a video supposedly providing clarity on the market, they've done an excellent job of misinformation. |:
Problems with AW rear wheel conversion kit. The problem my bike shop said is that my Shimano crank is tapered and the PAS takes up room so that my crank will not slide back on all the way, I can tighten the bolt but the crank is not seated all the way and the bike shop said it will eventually wear out the crank arm since it is not tightly seated. Is there a PAS system that will work in this case? Also the derailer rubs in top gear and the bike shop said no way to fix except to adjust to lose the top gear.
Most PAS sensors are just a dozen or so magnets on a ring and a Hall-effect sensor. Your bike shop is right that the cranks must seat all the way on the tapers, or they will absolutely fail. They are wrong in being too lacking in any degree of mechanical ability to adapt a little. The ring may have to be modified, but that shouldn't be insurmountable. Having said that, most of these sensor systems work the same and if it's just a 2-wire sensor, should be pretty compatible, and they are pretty cheap - less than $10 typically.
The derailleur issue is just weird - if you're using the same gearing, nothing about that should change.
Very nice
your voice like bangladeshi. like business inside bd if am not wrong
You forgot to say the price for the last one
It costs about 600 euros
Can buy from prspower ebay for under 300 quid but buy the 48v 750w
I need a kit that last at least 20 mile range to make it to work n back.
maybe take your charger to work and charge while you work. you can use any outlet at work .
Its not the kit its the battery just buy another battery
How does this channel have so many subscribers? It's almost as bad as those videos with the robot voice reading off manufacturer summaries.
It only took me 5 rewinds to figure out that two fifty dollars ment two "hundred" fifty dollars.
Lol
Just another useless video on CZcams.
10 best conversion kits based on what technical information?
And is showing eBay fake feedback and stars any help??
Shut up it’s not even eBay feedback
@@suyeshlamsal5840 I don't smell curry so don't mess with me rude idiot.
Bill Admond what’s up little boy. already making racist insults did I make u cry l
@@suyeshlamsal5840 "Did I Make You Cry On Christmas Day? (Well, You Deserved It!)"
This time of year you always disappear
You tell me not to call
You tell me not to call
And when the door is closed you're wearing different clothes
Or hiding in the paper, pretending not to hear
Inexpensive wine
I buy it all the time
You tell me take it back
You say you'll take a nap
But I can see it now
You always tell me how
I could do so much better
You said it in your letter
Did I make you cry
On Christmas day?
Did I let you down
Like every other day?
Did I make you cry
On Christmas day?
Did I let you down
On Christmas day?
The bed that isn't made
The broken window shade
The radiator's on
I loved you all along
But I can see it now
You always tell me how
I could do so much better
You said it in your letter
I stay awake at night
After we have a fight
I'm writing poems about you
And they aren't very nice
I didn't mean to yell
I said I couldn't tell
I only grabbed your wrist
Or would you rather we kissed?
Did I make you cry
On Christmas day?
Did I make you cry
Like every other day?
Did I make you cry
On Christmas day?
Did I make you cry?
@@billadmond9450 nice racist slur you deserve a prize
some of them kits cost almost as much are more then some e-bikes
Are you serious? A kit costs less than any electric bike that will actually move.
Thank you
What about YOSE POWER??
So what is the cheapest battery for these kits 36 volt none of these kits come with a battery
Hit the nail on the head. Kit is HALF the price. The batteries are JUST AS EXPENSIVE! Better yet their is no standard for the batteries so you may find yourself 'hardwiring' them into your new kits. Luckily they are not that hard to figure out. Just match those thick red and black wires and your good to go.
@@jamesloll4601 I got a kit for £187 on Amazon the cheapest battery was £219. Hopefully as e bikes become more and more popular the price of the batteries will drop.
@@catthomas5505 Yeah? But what good is that if the Amp Hours happen to be much less than advertised and then stuck with a lithium battery that SAYS it's 35 AH when in reality it's maybe 7 AH? And worst? You could of gotten about fifty pounds of lead cell batteries at about 14 AH at better than half the price?!? Lithium battery packs are definitely much more expensive and it's a nasty hit or miss thing, more on the missing side. :( :[ Ripoff artists... Maybe I got unlucky or maybe that's the norm but I'm NOT rich enough to try multiple buyers. If it sounds too good, odds are it is. Just annoyed my 14 AH lead set got me 25 miles on average and MY new Lithium rated 35 AH barely did ten miles new. It's gotten older and it's not even getting five miles anymore and I barely used it two months. Has me swearing like a sailor as I KNOW I got SERIOUSLY oversold at a pretty penny too. NEVER BUYING FROM THEM AGAIN unless I have brain damage! I bought into lithium because of their advertised AH versus weight. AH was definitely over rated, BADLY.
Your English is not good enough to speed talk, didn't understand rear wheel price
Sorry for the inconvenience. you will get the current price from the links
Buying a 80cc gas motor and putting it on a bike it's still cheaper than the e motorbikes the 80cc Japanese motor runs between 80 and $120 which is 100 to 200 to $300 cheaper
Can I change my ebike fromsingle mode pedal assist to multi mode by any easy means?
No
When the moment will come when in dehradun conversion work of cycle may happen
I need a
One that fits a boos axel no one has if you search
we'll look it up for you
I note kits do not appear to include the battery so they remain expensive. Also, the drawback is most have only 26-inch wheel motors. Till e- bike conversion kits which include the battery is priced at under £100, they are not worth buying.
Lol
How much you think a lithium ion battery with decent cells should cost ? You can get them with the cheap Chinese cells for cheap but they wont last. The Samsung or Panasonic 18650 cell is the decent standard and they're like 5 bucks apiece and you need 14x7 of them for a 48v 14amp battery. Close to 300$ a good hub motor kit is at least 350$ the kits come in all size wheels also.
Shame the pictures in the video don’t always match the product being described!
The good bicycle...
2:27 its not even three minutes in and you are asking for subscription? Wait untill atleast the three quarter mark so people actually know the quality of your content before subscribing.
Please share the kit Price and address
Bruh almost none of these are available wtf
Have you tested any of the things you're saying or are you just re-reading what other's have written for clickbait?
What happens if I want to have the 2 hub motor on both tiers ?
Great one, lad. If this is great for cruiser bikes, that is something I want.
easy fit front wheel Voilamart 26 used a Walmart Kent cruiser works great
I tried to order an ebike after thinking about it over a year and fed ex could not get it delivered to my house. I tried telling them to deliver it after five when i got off work and they wouldn't do it. If you are an ebike company i would think about using a different company to ship your ebikes. They only use a call center in India as there customer service. You can not speak directly to a FedEx representative. They are terrible at getting a package delivered to there customer, beware. Now they are saying the label is scratched and it can not be scanned. i can not even go pick it up. I should of had it almost a week ago. Now it has to go all the way back to the warehouse.
two fourty dollars. You left out a "hundred and" my friend.
There's 15 munites wasted - don't bother watching.
Why
Comment section is much useful than video.
This didn't even include Swytch Bike Conversion. Not very thorough.
Battery included?
If not, how much extra?
Hey, Thanks for concern. Could you please tell me which product you are asking for?
Usually they run $400-650 USD!
Background music is too loud it distracts and is annoying.
Sorry for the issue and thanks for your feedback. We will solve the problem from our next video. Stay with us.
Like consumer reports?
Awesome video and thanks for sharing your tips 👍 💚
So nice of you
Needs a video about shockproof and waterproof earbuds or bluetooth .
Does the first guy we see talking sound like a robot?
"equippeEEEEEEEEd" :D
Thank you for your valuable feedback.
We apologize your concern.
@@Top10Zone huh😂
Your effort is appreciated but, respectfully, you sound as if you have no real knowledge of e-bike tech. Due to this, your ratings are also , imho, not listed properly. I agree with the Bafang kit being first - I am not a fan of mid-drive systems, but that is the way the industry is moving and the Bafang motor is quality equipment. I believe the E-Bikeling kit should have been second - the parts are of decent quality, but their customer service is also competent and available. Not every kit company will stand behind their product the same way....that needs to be considered. The other kits mostly have similar components, but also have power restrictions or speed limitations due to inferior quality. Your list of statistics between each kit presentation was not consistent, as you gave different info for each kit - that can be misleading. Also, there should be some discussion to the differences between the types of drives you presented - front, rear and mid-drive all have pros and cons that could have been addressed. I love ebikes... I have purchased and used ebike kits... I want to see more people on ebikes... but I want them to have fun and be safe as well. There is a difference between inexpensive... and cheap. Moving forward, please take more care. Thank you.
Hater lmao
@@dogothepogo3203 Stupid troll alert!!
Why are you not keen on mid drive?just asking coz looking at buying one and need all the information I can get.when I go to bike shops they always point me toward mid drive
@@johnnyboy1586 They point you to mid drive bikes because they keep running business on "expensive" and monopolized services.
What is your budget, what bike you need and for what purpose?
Do you already have the bike and only need the kit?
@@billadmond9450 I did have a bike I was looking at maybe putting a kit on but being obove knee amputee but couldn't find dropper post small enough to fit,anyway passed my old faithful on to my daughter and am looking at new models.probably go for 29ner for all round use.i know mid drives are well ballanced but chew through chains an sprockets and are expensive. I like the simplicity of rear hub but looks like all mtb are mid drive
It looks like you weren't aware of Bimotal's Elevate when putting this review together. 750W, the system weighs less than 2.5kg, it dismounts in 10 seconds.... All kinds of awesome! Check it out: czcams.com/video/IkFA8mlrHwg/video.html
Electric Bike Conversion Kit in 2021 : czcams.com/video/UYouAi9bA2Q/video.html
None of these are compatible with European pedal assist legislation.