Tearing Apart the First Camper Van I Built
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- I'm getting ready to rebuild my Ford Transit camper van, but first I need to tear apart the old build. While deconstructing the van, I'll walk you through how it held up and the good and bad of the build.
#vanlife #vanconversion #tinyhome
Excellent work explaining the flaws with the old design. I can't wait to see what you will come up with. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and for the kind words!
Nice one; looking forward to the rebuild Sam 👍
Thanks! Same!
I had the same problem with my plywood being not 100% stable where they would meet.
A simple and elegant solution is to route a channel into the sides of the plywood where they meet. It's best if you route it in the middle.
You can buy a slot cutting router bit to fit the standard one inch wide aluminum bar that they sell at home depot.
Then you can slip the aluminum bar into the routing channel and connect the two plywood boards. It will go 1/2 of an inch deep into each side of the board which is plenty. I wanted to do a 1.5 in aluminum bar initially, but I couldn't find a routing bit that would allow me to channel that deep.
After I connected everything, I took it the extra step of then screwing down from the top of the plywood through the plywood, then through the aluminum, and then into the other side of the plywood. This makes it so that there's no chance of the plywood splining.
It's rock solid this way and it's pretty darn easy to do. The hardest part is getting the boards to connect when you put it into the van. It took a little wiggling. It was then that I was grateful I didn't do a 1.5in bar. It would have been way harder to squeez it in.
I used a cheap handheld router.
I'm not sure if that makes any sense. Happy to talk you through it. I was stuck on that part of my build for a long time. I feel like I didn't want to move forward if I couldn't get the plywood to be Rock solid. I was worried that it would tear through the flooring eventually. It's probably Overkill but it sure feels nice.
That's the longest CZcams comment I've ever left in my life lol
Edit: when I first posted this I claimed 1.5 in and 3/4 on each side. It had been two years. I measured it recently and it's a 1 inch bar that's 1/2 deep on each side. I couldn't find a bit that would go deeper, and it's probably not neccessary anyhow.
I understood, very smart! Also the longest comment remark 😂
That is a clever idea - thanks for sharing!
Just to clarify. Is what you are talking about basically a spline like in this image (blog.carbideprocessors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/spline-joint.gif) but with the 1.5" aluminum flat bar instead of wood?
@@MoserMakesyes. Exactly like that. But then I also screwed it in from the top so the wood doesn't break away over time. It's rock solid. Also, the bit you need is a slot cutting router bit. You want it 1/8 inch thick so it lines up with the 1/8 thick aluminum bars that they sell at home depot. It's only going to penetrate a half inch into each side. So the 1-inch thick bar from home Depot works great. I mistakenly said I did a 1.5in bar when I first made that comment. I was wrong. I just measured it, and it's definitely a 1 inch bar. Sorry for the misinformation.
One last piece of advice that makes it even better. Don't line up your insulation pieces below so that they all break in the same spots as the plywood. Where my plywood breaks is solid insulation. I staggered it the opposite way. I made my biggest plywood piece near the cockpit, and the middle, and the small one is at the rear. I did the opposite for my insulation so they don't line up at all. This makes the insulation firm beneathe the plywood's weak point where the ply wood meets.
@@JoshuaG182 Please note my mistake and the name of the bit in case you try this: Also, the bit you need is a slot cutting router bit. You want it 1/8 inch thick so it lines up with the 1/8 thick aluminum bars that they sell at home depot. It's only going to penetrate a half inch into each side. So the 1-inch thick bar from home Depot works great. I mistakenly said I did a 1.5in bar when I first made that comment. I was wrong. I just measured it, and it's definitely a 1 inch bar. Sorry for the misinformation.
Absolutely awesome video. Love the reflection and takeaways…. Makes me really wanna build another van. Stubbled upon ur channel - so great; images great, sound great, and interesting content. Looking forward to more.
Awesome! Thank you!
The very best! Thanks again!
Sam, can you elaborate on the PEX "clamp ring socket-type removal tool"? Maybe source or exact name of the piece? I can't seem to see it when searching. Great tips and advice in this vid. Thanks! Dan
Hey Dan, sorry for the delayed response. The one in the video is called the "Apollo PEX-B Pinch Clamp Removal Tool" (Apollo Model # 69PTKPCRR). Here is a link: thd.co/4cgRG7Z
When looking for that one I also came across this one which seems to have good reviews: amzn.to/3Vz6E20
@@MoserMakes Thanks man! I"ve never worked with PEX but planning on using in our Promaster build. Much appreciate the reply. Your vids and "product" you're putting out is great 👍
@TeutonicNordwind thank you! I think PEX is the way to go.
Hey, thank's for the video and advice.
What marine adhesive did you use in securing the plywood strips on the floor? Sikaflex? What is your opinion on glueing or screwing the plywood floor (to the van metal floor)?
In leaving that vent hole in the floor that you mentioned was not clearly noticeable but perhaps it made the difference in air circulation and subsequently condensation in the van? Did you cover the ventilation floor hole with cabinetry? That could've conditioned it.
I will be leaving 2 ventilation small holes in the back of my van (hidden on the lower unused space of back headlights, small van (combined with 2 mushroom type vents). You mention 4 inch hole and didn't made a difference, I was thinking of doing 1 or 2 inches only. I have my doubts now, does anyone know a video and/or channel that delves more on this topic?
Thank you again!
I used 3M 4200 Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure. Sikaflex is also really good.
It is possible that the vent made a difference for air circulation and condensation but hard to say for sure. The hole was not covered with cabinetry. It was connected to an inline fan ducting to faciliate moving air in from it and moving that air to the main part of the van.