For a more finish look, place tape around the plastic, then fill epoxy to the edge. Pull off the tape in a few hours and the edge will be straight and uniform. Faster to fill because you can mix a large batch and pour in the epoxy, especially if you do a large number of these.
if you're in the US, definitely look at the instructions on your epoxy resin. the epoxy i've used starts hardening up around 10 minutes, so it would never sit for that long for air bubbles to escape. depending on the project, if your surfaces are completely coated (meaning no paper on the sides) you can use a lighter or blow torch to remove the bubbles, just a quick wand over with heat. also, the CO2 from your breath will remove air bubbles.. not by blowing on it, but by letting out a "huhhhh" breath over it... but to make a ton of solar panels, you might pass out doing that! : )
Thank! There are various types of epoxy. I use the classic one which at room temperature hardens completely for 24 hours. Resins that are harder quickly are not suitable in this case. The best way to remove the bubbles is to place the resin in a vacuum chamber. But for a slow resin, this is not required, you can just wait 20-30 minutes.
You mention there are no bubbles when mixing but actually there are thousands of micro-bubbles. I've been working with Epoxy a bit, and a amazing but cheap solution is just using a little spray bottle that makes fine mist with rubbing alcohol. Spray it onto the epoxy and all the bubbles disappear, it's quite satisfying, and then the Isopropyl alcohol evaporates. Try this and best! Otherwise, great idea and video. Thanks.
That`s a good tip. I bought loads of small panels and never used them. I made some automatic blinds and want to get away from power cords. Need to make at least 7 volts to power the micro controller so about 5 then.
This makes a perfect teaching material for kids and adults the like. Particularly, the video quality is quite impressive with emphasis on detail and without loud background music. The lack of narrative is a little bit frustrating, but I guess, it may helps us keep focused when the narrator has a heavy accent... like mine :-)
Совершенно верно, видео полезно в образовательных целях, но не как не в практических, что с таких элементов взять, разве что смартфон зарядить. It is absolutely true that the video is useful for educational purposes, but not for practical purposes, what to take from such elements, except to charge your smartphone.
I am going to gently suggest that vinylester resin would be better that epoxy because epoxy breaks down in UV light. It discolored right away and then will become as brittle and fragile as the solar plates you are trying to protect. If you use epoxy be sure it has UV inhibitors in its formulation. Or find an additive. Also gentle vacuuming between plastic sheets will remove the bubbles and gently force epoxy into the gap between backing and solar cell.
@ it’s even more confusing when you add polyester resin, which is also preferable to epoxy in terms of resistance to UV degradation. But like a lot of things there is no one single best. The final choice is always with which set of compromises are you most comfortable?
I was thinking of making a modular plastic frame for solar cells with contacts going down the plastic... Would make it a lot easier in my mind as you just place the cell carefully and coat it with a thin amount of epoxy. I also want to try putting epoxy resin in a vacuum with the solar cell, I just have the fear it might crack, but for 24 cents I can't complain.
Hi, I like the video, good instruction on how to make these cells into usable assemblies. Can I suggest you scribe or cut a line in the plastic under the cell where the anode wire goes, so the cell lays flat on the plastic square, this will take most of the stress off the cell structure.
Yes, this is great advice! I thought about it already when I made the video. This advice has already been given in the comments. I'm glad that my viewers are so smart. 👍
A propane burning torch will get the bubbles out a LOT easier and faster. Just hold it several inches away from the project and watch the bubbles pop to the surface! Also a playing card or old credit card works great for spreading the epoxy, too. Be sure to do this outdoors or in a very well ventilated area with no fire hazards around! And kids need to ASK MOM AND DAD FIRST before trying anything like this!
What is this man? You already came up with a wonderful and very useful idea. I will try to do the same, but I am afraid to fail. But, my friend, I saw that you used home lighting instead of the sun. Does the solar panel usually respond to home lighting, and how many panels will I need to charge One 3.7V battery within 24 hours? And Thank you very much for the idea 🌷👍
You shouldn't be using braided wire to connect cells because the part that has to be sobered to the back side won't allow the cells to sit flat or will in fact cause the cells to break with any minimum pressure on them. . Trust me, you want your cells to sit flat/flush against their mounting surface. Order yourself some thin, flat solar tabbing "wire" on a spool from eBay. It's easier to solder onto the cells, less likely to break the cells because it's not rigid, and allows the cells to sit flatter against their mounting surface an that's a very good thing.. And don't forget the flux! Use it liberally. Hot water soap bath to clean the excess flux and solar residue off cells once each one has tabbing wires soldered to it. scrub gently with soft plastic bristle brush or you will break cells.
As someone with OCD I would like the panels to be heat sinked to a matt black metal backing. Just the panels work better when cold. I`ve got some small panels kicking about. They are so delicate. My friend broke one just picking it up. I will try this. Thank you.
the current supplied by each cell is tiny, id use a single strand of the thinnest multistrand i could find, and with 50 cells ive set them all ona single baord either 5x10 or 7x7. Then you solder a single strand on the bottom, and then epoxy them in place , then solder the top connector to its neighbour, or run a strand of bare wire down between the rows if you are going to block parallel them, then the top coat of epoxy. Theres a dozen different ways to do it.
HI, I saw you mention at the end of the video that you can attach 2-3-4-5 solar cells to the plastic, but I'm a novice when it comes to these things. I was wondering how you could attach multiple cells onto the same plastic.
Bravo, magnificent, what a work of precision & patience ! ! ! You could add the resin manufacturer contact in non cyrilic alphabet for those, like me, that cannot read cyrilic. 😀 Thank you for your video.
This is a resin from a Russian manufacturer, the city of Dzerzhinsk. My friend from Moscow sent this to me in Moldova. Unfortunately it is not possible to order online. But this is the best resin I have known for about 40 years! raosteklotkan.ru/catalog/poliefirnye-sistemy/komplekty-smola-i-otverditel/edp-280-detail
4:48 in my experience of soldering, the anode solder is easier to make on this kind of surface. I used to do micro soldering in iPhones to bypass or simulate faulty chips.
If you want these for permanent outside, you must coat both sides to avoid moisture rusting the cells. Also, use glass (the plastic will degrade). Good for robots to find sunshine in the house!
Watch the video carefully: the epoxy resin is on top and around the edges, and on the back side is plastic. Such cells can be immersed in water without consequences.
grain, plastic will allow water to pass through over tIme and seasons. Especially when it degrades in the sun, and with changing pressure of night/day and contracting/expansion with temperature changes. They sell a sheet material called EVA that is impervious to water over time. It doesn't yellow in the sun. You vacuum seal it to both sides of the cell, or use glass on the bottom side. I made a 60 watt panel with EVA that has been in full sun for about 6 years with no rust, or moisture penetration. Epoxy on both sides of the cell is an alternative. The plastic might last a year in the weather. It's good, just not for long term.
I forgot to talk about wires. The insulation on a wire will allow a channel of air to enter/escape on a nightly basis as the panel heats and cools. This breathing will transport water vapor and will rust the cells near the solder joints unless you are very careful to seal the part of the insulation near the cell. When using EVA, you don't use insulated wire. Instead, you seal the EVA to the bare strips which serves as insulation.
@@TheRainHarvester You repeat the mistake of many commentators under this video. Why did you decide that these panels are for the roof of the house? If I did this for the roof of the house, the dimensions of the panels would be a bit larger. :) Solar panels are used not only for the roof of the house and not always the whole day for many years under the snow and the sun. Watch the titles of other videos on my channel and your questions will disappear. Only one example for my panels - a panel of 10 cells will give you 5 volts 400 mA - this is a great alternative to charging the phone on the beach and in the meadow. Watch the end of the video with the dough - czcams.com/video/WWKRbpPzECc/video.html
So in general, acetone can be used to thin epoxy resins, can you not use it in this situation to both help with air bubbles and make application to the cells easier?
What about bonding cells with baking soda and super glue? You can position the cells easily while the baking soda is applied, then use one drop of superglue to bond the cell in place instantly. No waiting for the superglue to dry. To break the bond on the cell, just apply heat slowly with a hair dryer. You think this would work?
Liked and added to favorite. Maybe one day i will do it despite the fact that i never ordered from a foreign website especially from aliexpress. I suggest wearing cloth gloves and not touching the cover of the solar cells because you can leave imprints or dirt spots which can reduce the efficiency. What is more challenging is to see what kind of battery and electronic parts are needed to store the electricity, to use it later at the night for example on a veiose when you have, lets say , 50 sollar cells. Can you try such a project to store the obtained electricity for later use or to get a stable/constantly power.
For a small amount of energy at night (for example, night lights in the garden), supercapacitors may be suitable - aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=&SearchText=supercapacitors
@@grain8314 awesome, thank you very much. Edit : youtube suggested me how to build a big battery with Li-Ion cells which provides 300 Watts , this is awesome but still expensive and advanced project requiring some special tools and an inverter for 230 V~. czcams.com/video/6Ai5IRQbLcc/video.html . Well, this is a suggestion for how to build a smaller one and without inverter ,maybe a Li-ion battery from a drilling machine should be enough.
Instead of resin coating, why not recess uncoated cells in appropriate substrate to accommodate thickness of wires and cell, then use glass or Plex as protective cover?
You mean sharpening a soldering iron? I previously worked for about 10 years on the installation of electronics. This form of sharpening the soldering iron tip is applied at the factory.
And unlike today's fashionable form in the form of an awl, my sharpening form allows you to hold the solder on the soldering iron tip and thanks to this my left hand is free. The one who works as a sting, his left hand holds the solder. And to be able to do something else, he needs to buy a device with the name "third hand". :)
Nicely done and informative video. Even the comments have been great on this one. Question though, if you wanted to make just a single panel or 2 for a well pump home us, which panels would you recommend that would still make economic sense (ignoring labor costs)?
Why poliester resin? and why not to spray it but apply it with toothpick? While you prepare the plastic support it is positive if you open canals for wires, that will help you stabilizing the wires easier.
Can you make a solar panel from scratch like the ones used in solar garden lights. The ones like 1inch x 1 inch glass coat with the reflector material.I mean just the panel. What all materials needed etc. If not where can I purchase it?
ok so you bought the ones that you would join together to make a whole panel with probably the wrong sort for what you want cause they are made to be joined together in series with the bought joiners you showed early on in the video and made into a panel such as a 250 watt panel etc just thought you might like to know that
Few remarks, if I may. Since most epoxy is not UV-proof, I think you need a kind that is and that is for sale. Otherwise it turns to a bit to yellow/brown, and not shining anymore, after a while. Or protect it with a UV-coating. Made a few myself, like you, about 20 years ago and they still work fine. And why not use a vacuum to get the air out, in the cup with the epoxy? A vacuum-cleaner will do the job. Spinning it while curing, could be an option, may be, Did not try that, may be for the next solar-cells. And later on also, to get a better connection and underlaying, while curing. Takes some more epoxy, ok, but also more durability, in wheather things, like hail. A form will spares a lot of time, I think and easier to combine more cells. And please take care for the epoxy-allergy, so use gloves and a mask etc. Epoxy ressin hardly shrinks and is very resistend, so good choice and thank you for this video.
Thanks for the tips! Yes, epoxy resin is also harmful, I forgot to write. About ultraviolet: the cells that I use give better current from heat rays - infrared radiation. I showed in some videos how well they work from the candle, from the match and from the incandescent lamp. And this video as my whole channel is not for serious home-made products for the home, it is entertainment products. However, from these solar cells, you can make a battery for travel. I connected 10 cells last summer and got a current of 0.4A on charging a smartphone - czcams.com/video/WWKRbpPzECc/video.htmlm10s
@@legallyinsane7151 it may well be polyester resin or similar, but Epoxy is not only 50/50. Have literally bought and used several ton in stone industry , and that is used variably at less than5% to no more than 10%
I have tryed so much the same as this and failed so finnally watched your whole vid , exactly what I am doing ,tho I AM USING POLYESTER RESIN , and it invariably DE-LAMINATES with sun heat. I HAVE ALONG TERM DESIGN question :TO PREPARE THE SOLAR WAFER FOR THE COMPOSIT INDUSTRY: This it far more complicated than one thinks ,the end result is the theory that 70% of solar wafer world production will go to COMPOSIT STRUCTURES. The problem is basically that the solar waffer front surface is SILICON (THEY USE SILICON TO MAKE TOOLS (MOULDS) FOR COMPOSIT STRUCTURES) so they release easily. We theorise that a barrier layer could be added at manufacture, especilly the sunpower TYPE wafers so tabbing is on rear only +++++ anyway ,I cannot tell from your vid if epoxy is bonding or probarbly mechanicaly holding that would not hold over large surface areas,, Some double sided stiky works , tho I dont need the plastic and usually the stiky glue is silicon based um,, , and has low ,2 hours OUT-TIME.So using a glue, silicon, to bond to the waffer and to a barrier layer (PROBARBLY resin)IS MY TESTING . That is the waffer part of the preparation, that should then bond to the composit structure during INFUSION,,Jon OH and as I think CHEEEEEEEEEP er
"Пары цианоакрилата, представляющие собой мономеры, могут раздражать слизистые оболочки глаз, носа и горла, но при достаточной концентрации они моментально полимеризуются под воздействием влаги и становятся инертными. Считается, что риск может быть незначительным, если работать в хорошо проветриваемом помещении. При регулярном взаимодействии с цианоакрилатом около 5 % людей испытывают симптомы, схожие с симптомами гриппа. Цианоакрилат также может раздражать кожный покров и вызывать аллергические кожные реакции. В редких случаях вдыхание паров может вызвать астму. Для разных цианоакрилатов токсичность может существенно отличаться." Transfer: "Cyanoacrylate vapors, which are monomers, can irritate the mucous membranes of the eyes, nose and throat, but with sufficient concentration they instantly polymerize under the influence of moisture and become inert. It is believed that the risk may be insignificant if working in a well-ventilated area. With regular interactions with cyanoacrylate, about 5% of people experience symptoms similar to flu symptoms. Cyanoacrylate can also irritate the skin and cause allergic skin reactions. In rare cases, inhalation of vapors can cause asthma. For different cyanoacrylates, toxicity may vary significantly." "Октил-2-цианоакрилат - наименее ядовитый из цианоакрилатов - применяется в медицинских целях для склеивания ран и для остановки кровотечений." Transfer: "Octyl-2-cyanoacrylate - the least toxic of cyanoacrylates - is used for medicinal purposes to glue wounds and to stop bleeding." ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Цианоакрилат
I used a regular wire, at the time of this video I have not yet bought a bus wire. Photo from aliexpress, link to bus wire and cells in the description.
My new channel
czcams.com/channels/Zh04Qe21IxnZSgSsTQh8Vg.htmlvideos
Ab Nikki
Ab Nikki 16 banaa tha
@@pujaghorai8832
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Please how can someone get it online
Very inspiring👍thanks a lot for your good share✌️we ma make a solar panel too similar with this way (no need a glass, clear resin is enough). WATB.
Great Video thanks , can I incorporate the same method to make big solar panels? Did you make any video for that?
Thanks
Pls I like to learn more about it. Is soo lovely to watch it. Am chuka live in Italy. Thanks
For a more finish look, place tape around the plastic, then fill epoxy to the edge. Pull off the tape in a few hours and the edge will be straight and uniform. Faster to fill because you can mix a large batch and pour in the epoxy, especially if you do a large number of these.
Traduzir para o português
Thanks
if you're in the US, definitely look at the instructions on your epoxy resin. the epoxy i've used starts hardening up around 10 minutes, so it would never sit for that long for air bubbles to escape. depending on the project, if your surfaces are completely coated (meaning no paper on the sides) you can use a lighter or blow torch to remove the bubbles, just a quick wand over with heat. also, the CO2 from your breath will remove air bubbles.. not by blowing on it, but by letting out a "huhhhh" breath over it... but to make a ton of solar panels, you might pass out doing that! : )
Thank! There are various types of epoxy. I use the classic one which at room temperature hardens completely for 24 hours. Resins that are harder quickly are not suitable in this case. The best way to remove the bubbles is to place the resin in a vacuum chamber. But for a slow resin, this is not required, you can just wait 20-30 minutes.
@@grain8314 I'm in india I'm a college student i need to make solar panel in my self . How to i buy the epoxy glue . Send me the buy link
Kripya galat na kyunki jab ham Bana de tab Nahin banta
Nice and careful video. Very explanatory notes! Thnx!!
excellent tutorial really professional and detailed but yet easy and concise.
Love reading other comments, hilarious. You are an inspiration, please keep sharing you ideas.
Ideas help others create visions.
You mention there are no bubbles when mixing but actually there are thousands of micro-bubbles. I've been working with Epoxy a bit, and a amazing but cheap solution is just using a little spray bottle that makes fine mist with rubbing alcohol. Spray it onto the epoxy and all the bubbles disappear, it's quite satisfying, and then the Isopropyl alcohol evaporates. Try this and best! Otherwise, great idea and video. Thanks.
That`s a good tip. I bought loads of small panels and never used them. I made some automatic blinds and want to get away from power cords. Need to make at least 7 volts to power the micro controller so about 5 then.
This makes a perfect teaching material for kids and adults the like. Particularly, the video quality is quite impressive with emphasis on detail and without loud background music. The lack of narrative is a little bit frustrating, but I guess, it may helps us keep focused when the narrator has a heavy accent... like mine :-)
l am a Waris Ali and what is these
Совершенно верно, видео полезно в образовательных целях, но не как не в практических, что с таких элементов взять, разве что смартфон зарядить.
It is absolutely true that the video is useful for educational purposes, but not for practical purposes, what to take from such elements, except to charge your smartphone.
I am going to gently suggest that vinylester resin would be better that epoxy because epoxy breaks down in UV light. It discolored right away and then will become as brittle and fragile as the solar plates you are trying to protect. If you use epoxy be sure it has UV inhibitors in its formulation. Or find an additive.
Also gentle vacuuming between plastic sheets will remove the bubbles and gently force epoxy into the gap between backing and solar cell.
Now what is the best way.
@ it’s even more confusing when you add polyester resin, which is also preferable to epoxy in terms of resistance to UV degradation.
But like a lot of things there is no one single best. The final choice is always with which set of compromises are you most comfortable?
I was thinking of making a modular plastic frame for solar cells with contacts going down the plastic... Would make it a lot easier in my mind as you just place the cell carefully and coat it with a thin amount of epoxy. I also want to try putting epoxy resin in a vacuum with the solar cell, I just have the fear it might crack, but for 24 cents I can't complain.
the finished epoxy looked amazing!
I really like your idea, but I wonder adding the cost of the plastic substrate and epoxy and labor if is cost effective?
THANK YOU VERY CREATIVE.
A Non-Yellowing epoxy I also would recommend. Thanks for the video..
Smart ...
G ik
Hi, I like the video, good instruction on how to make these cells into usable assemblies.
Can I suggest you scribe or cut a line in the plastic under the cell where the anode wire goes, so the cell lays flat on the plastic square, this will take most of the stress off the cell structure.
Yes, this is great advice! I thought about it already when I made the video. This advice has already been given in the comments. I'm glad that my viewers are so smart. 👍
A propane burning torch will get the bubbles out a LOT easier and faster. Just hold it several inches away from the project and watch the bubbles pop to the surface! Also a playing card or old credit card works great for spreading the epoxy, too. Be sure to do this outdoors or in a very well ventilated area with no fire hazards around! And kids need to ASK MOM AND DAD FIRST before trying anything like this!
good luck in your innovative ideas
where do I apply it and can I remove the contactor? do home computers and smartphones work?
Very cool, thank you sir. 💪🙏
Amazing. Spasibo.
Solar Panel at home Amazing!..
For cutting the long strips into shorter squares, a paper cutting board would help drastically. It comes already with a measuring scale on it.
These are details of the personal taste of each master. :)
This is true :)
شما که زحمت ویدئو رو کشیدید چه قدر خوب بود مواد لازم را حداقل به فارسی ترجمه میکردی 🤗
buen vídeo excelente trabajo esta muy interesante saludos y gracias
Thank you for this video! You helped me a lot:D
😂😂
O Bhai mujhe bhula doge
Bhai mujhe dila doge Munger ka
What is this man? You already came up with a wonderful and very useful idea. I will try to do the same, but I am afraid to fail. But, my friend, I saw that you used home lighting instead of the sun. Does the solar panel usually respond to home lighting, and how many panels will I need to charge One 3.7V battery within 24 hours? And Thank you very much for the idea 🌷👍
thanks for the tutorial.. 👍👍
It is amazing ,nice work
You shouldn't be using braided wire to connect cells because the part that has to be sobered to the back side won't allow the cells to sit flat or will in fact cause the cells to break with any minimum pressure on them. . Trust me, you want your cells to sit flat/flush against their mounting surface. Order yourself some thin, flat solar tabbing "wire" on a spool from eBay. It's easier to solder onto the cells, less likely to break the cells because it's not rigid, and allows the cells to sit flatter against their mounting surface an that's a very good thing.. And don't forget the flux! Use it liberally. Hot water soap bath to clean the excess flux and solar residue off cells once each one has tabbing wires soldered to it. scrub gently with soft plastic bristle brush or you will break cells.
As someone with OCD I would like the panels to be heat sinked to a matt black metal backing. Just the panels work better when cold. I`ve got some small panels kicking about. They are so delicate. My friend broke one just picking it up. I will try this. Thank you.
the current supplied by each cell is tiny, id use a single strand of the thinnest multistrand i could find, and with 50 cells ive set them all ona single baord either 5x10 or 7x7. Then you solder a single strand on the bottom, and then epoxy them in place , then solder the top connector to its neighbour, or run a strand of bare wire down between the rows if you are going to block parallel them, then the top coat of epoxy. Theres a dozen different ways to do it.
I it is a great tutorial. This tutorial help us to make many things. Please make more awesome video like this. Thanks
HI, I saw you mention at the end of the video that you can attach 2-3-4-5 solar cells to the plastic, but I'm a novice when it comes to these things. I was wondering how you could attach multiple cells onto the same plastic.
It is also simple. You should stick several cells on one plastic and solder them together. Then you cover everything with epoxy.
thanks a lot ,,, very nice clean arranged educational lesson
resin becomes more pliable if you apply a little heat also you can get rid of the bubbles with a little heat you can also get a bubble release spray
Thanks .for me es great .God bless you all,ever.
wow...good job man...😊👍👍
Great! Thank a lot.
nice trick to make cheap solar cell... thanks for your sharing bro ... well done
I'd cut a little groove in the support panel where the positive wire goes, so it would lay flatter.
Great advice, thanks! I thought that too, but already when I watched the finished video. :)
Bravo, magnificent, what a work of precision & patience ! ! !
You could add the resin manufacturer contact in non cyrilic alphabet for those, like me, that cannot read cyrilic.
😀
Thank you for your video.
This is a resin from a Russian manufacturer, the city of Dzerzhinsk. My friend from Moscow sent this to me in Moldova. Unfortunately it is not possible to order online. But this is the best resin I have known for about 40 years!
raosteklotkan.ru/catalog/poliefirnye-sistemy/komplekty-smola-i-otverditel/edp-280-detail
loved this
Well done video ! Very helpful. Easy to follow. Thank you for doing this.for us.
I'm glad that someone needs it.
Ur 3d music in earphones is AWESOME
Nice! Can i use fiberglass resin to cover cells? what size of wires did you use?
You can make any coating if it is transparent enough.
Actually making a solar panel would be interesting .. so many vids on how to glue pre made one's together
@@DebakinandanSarkar are doing copyng and pasting on other channels the same text ?
Yep poor grammar. All of them are confusing putting together with making.
Thanks for this video, you did a great job :) subbed haha this helped me a lot
去年學過有關太陽能光電架設，你的影片如老師告訴我太陽能板的製作方式
Great video .
Very helpful .
Sir ,thank you so much for shearing your knowledge .
I am from Sri Lanka .
4:48 in my experience of soldering, the anode solder is easier to make on this kind of surface. I used to do micro soldering in iPhones to bypass or simulate faulty chips.
Why would you want to bypass that
Lovely camera work
If you want these for permanent outside, you must coat both sides to avoid moisture rusting the cells. Also, use glass (the plastic will degrade). Good for robots to find sunshine in the house!
Watch the video carefully: the epoxy resin is on top and around the edges, and on the back side is plastic. Such cells can be immersed in water without consequences.
grain, plastic will allow water to pass through over tIme and seasons. Especially when it degrades in the sun, and with changing pressure of night/day and contracting/expansion with temperature changes.
They sell a sheet material called EVA that is impervious to water over time. It doesn't yellow in the sun. You vacuum seal it to both sides of the cell, or use glass on the bottom side. I made a 60 watt panel with EVA that has been in full sun for about 6 years with no rust, or moisture penetration.
Epoxy on both sides of the cell is an alternative.
The plastic might last a year in the weather. It's good, just not for long term.
I forgot to talk about wires. The insulation on a wire will allow a channel of air to enter/escape on a nightly basis as the panel heats and cools. This breathing will transport water vapor and will rust the cells near the solder joints unless you are very careful to seal the part of the insulation near the cell. When using EVA, you don't use insulated wire. Instead, you seal the EVA to the bare strips which serves as insulation.
@@TheRainHarvester You repeat the mistake of many commentators under this video. Why did you decide that these panels are for the roof of the house? If I did this for the roof of the house, the dimensions of the panels would be a bit larger. :) Solar panels are used not only for the roof of the house and not always the whole day for many years under the snow and the sun.
Watch the titles of other videos on my channel and your questions will disappear. Only one example for my panels - a panel of 10 cells will give you 5 volts 400 mA - this is a great alternative to charging the phone on the beach and in the meadow. Watch the end of the video with the dough - czcams.com/video/WWKRbpPzECc/video.html
grain , I didn't say roof with multiple cells. Just outside. Peace! You made a good video!
So in general, acetone can be used to thin epoxy resins, can you not use it in this situation to both help with air bubbles and make application to the cells easier?
Perhaps I have not tried.
I would love to try your cost cutting idea
This is great if you have more time than money and if you already have these materials at hand. Otherwise the higher price may be just as good.
What about bonding cells with baking soda and super glue? You can position the cells easily while the baking soda is applied, then use one drop of superglue to bond the cell in place instantly. No waiting for the superglue to dry. To break the bond on the cell, just apply heat slowly with a hair dryer. You think this would work?
Don't you lose too much power from the damages you inflict to the cell (soldering and glue seems to alter quite a zone around) ?
I did not notice any changes.
LeChat, do you see an alternative?
Liked and added to favorite. Maybe one day i will do it despite the fact that i never ordered from a foreign website especially from aliexpress.
I suggest wearing cloth gloves and not touching the cover of the solar cells because you can leave imprints or dirt spots which can reduce the efficiency.
What is more challenging is to see what kind of battery and electronic parts are needed to store the electricity, to use it later at the night for example on a veiose when you have, lets say , 50 sollar cells. Can you try such a project to store the obtained electricity for later use or to get a stable/constantly power.
For a small amount of energy at night (for example, night lights in the garden), supercapacitors may be suitable - aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=&SearchText=supercapacitors
@@grain8314 awesome, thank you very much.
Edit : youtube suggested me how to build a big battery with Li-Ion cells which provides 300 Watts , this is awesome but still expensive and advanced project requiring some special tools and an inverter for 230 V~. czcams.com/video/6Ai5IRQbLcc/video.html . Well, this is a suggestion for how to build a smaller one and without inverter ,maybe a Li-ion battery from a drilling machine should be enough.
Perfect video,greetings from Romania!!
Thanks a lot of interactive video, it's truly inspired. WATB🙏
good video man i suscribed
I wonder if your supplier can be shared on the solar panel? Good job!
Is super glue conductive ? Also if so why not just super glue them all to foil backing plate ?
nice video and editing good to see it
Muito bom! Good!
Instead of resin coating, why not recess uncoated cells in appropriate substrate to accommodate thickness of wires and cell, then use glass or Plex as protective cover?
It's just a cheaper and faster option for small crafts.
I like this!!
If i could fill my whole house with solar pannels , whose knows how much free energy i will get😁😁
I'm from India🇮🇳. I like your work
how do I connect my appliances and computers and mobile phones
?
Very helpful...free energy
what is the anode and cathode material? what is the blue color, and how did apply it?
The tip of your soldering iron is so funky...hehe
You mean sharpening a soldering iron? I previously worked for about 10 years on the installation of electronics. This form of sharpening the soldering iron tip is applied at the factory.
And unlike today's fashionable form in the form of an awl, my sharpening form allows you to hold the solder on the soldering iron tip and thanks to this my left hand is free. The one who works as a sting, his left hand holds the solder. And to be able to do something else, he needs to buy a device with the name "third hand". :)
@phuck ewe Maybe. The flat part of the tip with solder looks down. But I promise to clean my tip next time. :)
Nicely done and informative video. Even the comments have been great on this one.
Question though, if you wanted to make just a single panel or 2 for a well pump home us, which panels would you recommend that would still make economic sense (ignoring labor costs)?
Sorry I can't give you any advice for the well pump. These panels were made solely for experimentation with small home devices.
good music, work and edit thank you man:)
very nice and helpful thanks
Hello, how do you solve the phenomenon of epoxy resin softening when heated
Enjoyed and subscribed,
Greetings from Minnesota U.S.A. :D
Thank you! Greetings from Moldova!
*you are great*
Very easy work thank you
👌
Can we use araldite epoxy?
Why poliester resin? and why not to spray it but apply it with toothpick? While you prepare the plastic support it is positive if you open canals for wires, that will help you stabilizing the wires easier.
Ага, попался русский агент))
Хорошее видео, лайк! Пасибо за идею!
Great video!
Can you make a solar panel from scratch like the ones used in solar garden lights. The ones like 1inch x 1 inch glass coat with the reflector material.I mean just the panel. What all materials needed etc. If not where can I purchase it?
www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20200617120011&origin=y&SearchText=Solar+Panel+52*52MM
Can I attached with glass in the face of the solar pannel
ok so you bought the ones that you would join together to make a whole panel with probably the wrong sort for what you want cause they are made to be joined together in series with the bought joiners you showed early on in the video and made into a panel such as a 250 watt panel etc just thought you might like to know that
Few remarks, if I may. Since most epoxy is not UV-proof, I think you need a kind that is and that is for sale. Otherwise it turns to a bit to yellow/brown, and not shining anymore, after a while. Or protect it with a UV-coating.
Made a few myself, like you, about 20 years ago and they still work fine.
And why not use a vacuum to get the air out, in the cup with the epoxy?
A vacuum-cleaner will do the job. Spinning it while curing, could be an option, may be, Did not try that, may be for the next solar-cells.
And later on also, to get a better connection and underlaying, while curing. Takes some more epoxy, ok, but also more durability, in wheather things, like hail.
A form will spares a lot of time, I think and easier to combine more cells.
And please take care for the epoxy-allergy, so use gloves and a mask etc.
Epoxy ressin hardly shrinks and is very resistend, so good choice and thank you for this video.
Thanks for the tips! Yes, epoxy resin is also harmful, I forgot to write. About ultraviolet: the cells that I use give better current from heat rays - infrared radiation. I showed in some videos how well they work from the candle, from the match and from the incandescent lamp. And this video as my whole channel is not for serious home-made products for the home, it is entertainment products. However, from these solar cells, you can make a battery for travel. I connected 10 cells last summer and got a current of 0.4A on charging a smartphone - czcams.com/video/WWKRbpPzECc/video.htmlm10s
Frits, that wasn't epoxy resin, more likely polyester resin at 9 to 1 hardener. Epoxy is 50/50.
@@legallyinsane7151 it may well be polyester resin or similar, but
Epoxy is not only 50/50.
Have literally bought and used several ton in stone industry , and that is used variably at less than5% to no more than 10%
@@legallyinsane7151 also we use 3：1
Were can I get the bluer panel?
I have tryed so much the same as this and failed so finnally watched your whole vid ,
exactly what I am doing ,tho I AM USING POLYESTER RESIN , and it invariably DE-LAMINATES
with sun heat. I HAVE ALONG TERM DESIGN question :TO PREPARE THE SOLAR WAFER FOR
THE COMPOSIT INDUSTRY: This it far more complicated than one thinks ,the end result is
the theory that 70% of solar wafer world production will go to COMPOSIT STRUCTURES.
The problem is basically that the solar waffer front surface is SILICON (THEY USE SILICON
TO MAKE TOOLS (MOULDS) FOR COMPOSIT STRUCTURES) so they release easily. We theorise that a barrier layer
could be added at manufacture, especilly the sunpower TYPE wafers so tabbing is on rear only +++++
anyway ,I cannot tell from your vid if epoxy is bonding or probarbly mechanicaly holding that would
not hold over large surface areas,, Some double sided stiky works , tho I dont need the plastic
and usually the stiky glue is silicon based um,, , and has low ,2 hours OUT-TIME.So using a glue, silicon,
to bond to the waffer and to a barrier layer (PROBARBLY resin)IS MY TESTING . That is the waffer
part of the preparation, that should then bond to the composit structure during INFUSION,,Jon
OH and as I think CHEEEEEEEEEP er
good work!
Who else came to the comments section to see if it works?😂
Me
Cyanoacrylate is not harmful. It even being used in medical procedure where it often used to seal wound that cannot be stitched.
"Пары цианоакрилата, представляющие собой мономеры, могут раздражать слизистые оболочки глаз, носа и горла, но при достаточной концентрации они моментально полимеризуются под воздействием влаги и становятся инертными. Считается, что риск может быть незначительным, если работать в хорошо проветриваемом помещении. При регулярном взаимодействии с цианоакрилатом около 5 % людей испытывают симптомы, схожие с симптомами гриппа. Цианоакрилат также может раздражать кожный покров и вызывать аллергические кожные реакции. В редких случаях вдыхание паров может вызвать астму. Для разных цианоакрилатов токсичность может существенно отличаться."
Transfer:
"Cyanoacrylate vapors, which are monomers, can irritate the mucous membranes of the eyes, nose and throat, but with sufficient concentration they instantly polymerize under the influence of moisture and become inert. It is believed that the risk may be insignificant if working in a well-ventilated area. With regular interactions with cyanoacrylate, about 5% of people experience symptoms similar to flu symptoms. Cyanoacrylate can also irritate the skin and cause allergic skin reactions. In rare cases, inhalation of vapors can cause asthma. For different cyanoacrylates, toxicity may vary significantly."
"Октил-2-цианоакрилат - наименее ядовитый из цианоакрилатов - применяется в медицинских целях для склеивания ран и для остановки кровотечений."
Transfer:
"Octyl-2-cyanoacrylate - the least toxic of cyanoacrylates - is used for medicinal purposes to glue wounds and to stop bleeding."
ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Цианоакрилат
Very good video!. Thank you!.
at 4:52 you show the solar tab bus wire but that's it. When did you put those on? I didn't see that.
I used a regular wire, at the time of this video I have not yet bought a bus wire. Photo from aliexpress, link to bus wire and cells in the description.
So how do you make them?? Just buy them online??
thanks. it's useful and interesting
👌