"You don't have to like or subscribe, just fix your shit" Best part of the video. I need to do this on my 02 E350. I was dreading it, but I feel a little better now. Thank you
Just a suggestion i have found helpful, leave the castle nut on the lower ball joint but thred it off so it's only on by a 1/4". That way when the knuckle falls the nut catches it instead of your toe or it just falling on the ground.
0:52 BRO! thats was the fastest harness removal i have ever seen iny life , i end up always spending touch time trying to get thoes removed you did it lightspeed. Respect lol
Great detailed video. Just finished my own front end rebuild on an E350 3 months ago. Wish I saw this video before starting my own, would have made my own experience much smoother. I actually had a Minnesota van and it was a fight all the way. 2 points, at about 9:40 you refered to the upper ball joint as a tie rod, and also I would suggest leaving the lower nut partially threaded, so when the spindle releases after the mallet wack, it doesnt hit the floor. Eliminates the possibility of damage to the threads or axle.
Most of the time I do keep that bolt slightly on to prevent it from falling. I recently had a whole knuckle from a 1 ton Chevy with the rotor on it fall on my leg after doing this same thing. Worst pain I've ever felt. I learned my lesson. Thank you for the tip!
I would have cleaned and repacked the bearing races with new grease instead of relying on the old burned up grease. Also, easier to remove the brale caliper with the housing as one unit instead of taking it all apart in pieces, even if your replacing the brakes, not necessary to disassemble everything.
I may not show them getting grease but they always do. They're newer bearings I changed a few months prior. But my all means tell me more about what I should do better. Even though I don't have to go to CZcams to figure it out then think I've all the sudden obtained the knowledge to tell someone else how they're doing it wrong..
@@bobaganoosh88 I also DONT go to utube for everything. I've been wrench on autos for over 25 years, I would've shown how the bearings get repacked for those that dont know how to. Setting the new bearings after repacking, I go hand tight then a quarter to half turn past. The wheel must spin freely but not too freely. Otherwise you'll outspin the bearings. Over all, you did ok.
Do you think that the Harbor Freight ball joint removal tool is sufficient to do the repair yourself or do you need to spend more money on a nicer tool. This would be a 1 time thing for me
Been re using cotter pins my whole career never had an issue. They're simply to hold things in place. You could use anything you wanted a long as it holds. Bearings were just replaced before this. Thanks for watching!
The only automotive shop in town quoted me 8hrs of shop rate to replace the ball joints on my 2012 Ford E350. I'm very skeptical. Maybe he accidentally(?) looked it up for a F350 4×4 instead. Either way after seeing this video I think I'll do it myself instead. Also then I can inspect the bearings while I'm at it. My front tires are wearing and feathered on the inside 1.5" of the tread.
Same I went for an alignment, they called an hour later, I said how's it going? He said good for me bad for you lol. Guy says I need both ball joints, inner right tie rod and radius arm bushings plus sawy bar bushings, quotes me $3000.00 lol I just laughed to myself. Heavy shitty work Ill do myself 3 grand no thanks.
@@bobaganoosh88 I got it at the end of the video ,,thanks ,I'm doing mine tomorrow I hope I can do it,,,just one ? Do I need on impact gun?? I don't have any power tools,,just my skinny arms,,
Wish you would have shown actually putting in the ball joint, instead of just skipping over it really fast🤦♂️. You went into detailabout everything else, except using the puller to actually put it back in. Why skip that part?
Have way through and I'm thinking this maybe the best how to video I've seen. Well done !
"You don't have to like or subscribe, just fix your shit" Best part of the video. I need to do this on my 02 E350. I was dreading it, but I feel a little better now. Thank you
Update: I fixed my shit. Doesn't shake anymore. I installed a weldtech 6inch lift. This van is a monster now.
@@mikebachmann4590 How have you been liking the lift so far? I have to change my tie-rods and contemplating just switching the whole front suspension.
@@vanvisualmedia2821 I love the lift. It's made the van ride better than stock. Wish I had a video of it to show you
I have 2002 E 250 Also Very good job. Very detailed
Just a suggestion i have found helpful, leave the castle nut on the lower ball joint but thred it off so it's only on by a 1/4". That way when the knuckle falls the nut catches it instead of your toe or it just falling on the ground.
0:52 BRO! thats was the fastest harness removal i have ever seen iny life , i end up always spending touch time trying to get thoes removed you did it lightspeed. Respect lol
The dog is sleeping like a baby lol.
He's in different spots throughout the video 😆 he lives a good life with 3 other dogs and 4 cats. He's the king of them all!
Thanks for help on this video explaining this procedure. Very informative and detailed 👍
Great detailed video. Just finished my own front end rebuild on an E350 3 months ago. Wish I saw this video before starting my own, would have made my own experience much smoother. I actually had a Minnesota van and it was a fight all the way. 2 points, at about 9:40 you refered to the upper ball joint as a tie rod, and also I would suggest leaving the lower nut partially threaded, so when the spindle releases after the mallet wack, it doesnt hit the floor. Eliminates the possibility of damage to the threads or axle.
Most of the time I do keep that bolt slightly on to prevent it from falling. I recently had a whole knuckle from a 1 ton Chevy with the rotor on it fall on my leg after doing this same thing. Worst pain I've ever felt. I learned my lesson. Thank you for the tip!
Cool deal. Preciate the vidya.
Nice editing when it came to Removal and installing new!
I love the dog just chilling out under the van😂
He's always with me, and those bearings did end up getting re greased. 🙃
Thanks it helped a lot! God bless you!
You're welcome and thank you for watching!
Thank you
Good video, never reuse cotterpins
As long as they're keeping the nut from spinning, they're OK to use. Thank you for watching!
I would have cleaned and repacked the bearing races with new grease instead of relying on the old burned up grease. Also, easier to remove the brale caliper with the housing as one unit instead of taking it all apart in pieces, even if your replacing the brakes, not necessary to disassemble everything.
I may not show them getting grease but they always do. They're newer bearings I changed a few months prior. But my all means tell me more about what I should do better. Even though I don't have to go to CZcams to figure it out then think I've all the sudden obtained the knowledge to tell someone else how they're doing it wrong..
@@bobaganoosh88 I also DONT go to utube for everything. I've been wrench on autos for over 25 years, I would've shown how the bearings get repacked for those that dont know how to. Setting the new bearings after repacking, I go hand tight then a quarter to half turn past. The wheel must spin freely but not too freely. Otherwise you'll outspin the bearings. Over all, you did ok.
Do you think that the Harbor Freight ball joint removal tool is sufficient to do the repair yourself or do you need to spend more money on a nicer tool. This would be a 1 time thing for me
Yeah it'll work!
@@bobaganoosh88 Thanks!
The harbor freight one works great I use it all the time. Just lubricate the threads on the tool to make it work easier.
Probably should have cleaned the old grease off and repacked the wheel bearings with new grease and put new seals on while you were in there😊
With it all apart, why not clean and repack the bearings? Also, never reuse a cotterpin like that.
Been re using cotter pins my whole career never had an issue. They're simply to hold things in place. You could use anything you wanted a long as it holds. Bearings were just replaced before this. Thanks for watching!
I mean you're on CZcams looking up how to change a ball joint but by all means tell me the proper way to do it 😆
The spindle is supposed to be hard to turn when replacing everything?
Once you get the Spindle bolt hand right, turn it a half turn, then that's it. Tighten it up just until you feel no more play in the wheel
Shouldn't be too tight no
Yeah but what did you use to press it in…?
10:10 shows it
The only automotive shop in town quoted me 8hrs of shop rate to replace the ball joints on my 2012 Ford E350. I'm very skeptical. Maybe he accidentally(?) looked it up for a F350 4×4 instead. Either way after seeing this video I think I'll do it myself instead. Also then I can inspect the bearings while I'm at it. My front tires are wearing and feathered on the inside 1.5" of the tread.
Same I went for an alignment, they called an hour later, I said how's it going? He said good for me bad for you lol. Guy says I need both ball joints, inner right tie rod and radius arm bushings plus sawy bar bushings, quotes me $3000.00 lol I just laughed to myself. Heavy shitty work Ill do myself 3 grand no thanks.
Good jop
Thanks bro so helpful
those rubber bushings for the stabilizer bar are worn that is a problem!
Sway bar bushings look clapped out too😂
Everything is clapped out on this van bro. I'm the only reason it's still in the road 😆
@@bobaganoosh88 Nice Work, Thanks for the good content! My vans at 334k miles.
Nice video,,,but I didn't get to see how you put the ball joints back on,,
You should've kept watching then
@@bobaganoosh88 I got it at the end of the video ,,thanks ,I'm doing mine tomorrow I hope I can do it,,,just one ? Do I need on impact gun?? I don't have any power tools,,just my skinny arms,,
@@bobaganoosh88 well thanks anyway,,
@Mario Canez you can use regular tools yes! It's really not terribly hard either. Good luck!
Wish you would have shown actually putting in the ball joint, instead of just skipping over it really fast🤦♂️. You went into detailabout everything else, except using the puller to actually put it back in. Why skip that part?
I showed how to connect it all you missed was me pulling the trigger on my impact
9:15 I go into detail of how to remove and install the ball joint IDK what you're even talking about.
Great vid thank you.
Annoying music.
I've gotten better with blending the music to acceptable levels, thank you for watching!!