Galvalume metal roof panels over asphalt shingles on a 28x60 mobile home. Learn the basics of a mobile home roof over using 1x4 purlins with foam insulation.
I would suggest at 11:00 to put a ring of silicone on the vent pipe just above where it will sit on the pipe and pull the boot over and down into the silicone so it the silicone sill be under the boot so the sun wont degrade it. Thanks for the video!!
Yes the insulation is to reduce noise and lower energy cost, my mobile home doesn't have the best insulation to start with so the $400 I spent will come back in reduced electric bills in a few years in my case, the difference in the electric bill wasn't as much as I had hoped but it did go down and the AC has a much easier time keeping the place cool in this summer and It's not running constantly anymore so I believe it should last longer, It's made a big difference.
Your welcome. I'm in Florida, so far there is no problem, I think it gets to hot between the panels for the algae because it still looks good, It is on the north facing side the siding needs to be cleaned once a year on that side it turns green but i haven't ever had the roof on that side turn green, but the roof is in full sun most of the day. The roof looks good, there's no discolor between the poly and metal panels yet, we have had some serious rain this summer and it hasn't leaked at all.
Yes I've done this on single wides before, just make sure when you screw down the 1x4 roof wood that the screws are hitting plywood or a roof truss below and not into sheet metal only.
Thanks Ted, My mobile home has about the same measurements and two valleys. I had a friend just had one done and $5000.00 was what she paid. I'm thinking about trying this myself, Hey that's how I learn. Thanks for the videos. Also subed you......
good for you ! gotta give you credit for jumping in there and doing it ! The reason you havent experienced greater savings in your AC is that the insulation doesnt promote air flow like a thermal blanket does. I couldnt tell if you cut a vent in the ridge as that helps air flow from the attic. Would suggest you also cut end caps for the ridge ( you may have , I just didnt see it ) to keep all those wasps, etc from getting in there...it doesnt leak and you have a 35 year roof.good job !Thanks!
Roofing contractor will charge around $5000 but the materials cost around $2000 for this one, cost will vary depending on the number of hips and valleys and the amount of vents or skylights also the chimney boot can be several hundred dollars and if you don't need the insulation it would save more so it really depends on the type and layout of the roof
A question for you. I would be afraid of dry-wood termites getting into that virtually exposed untreated wood. Why did you not use pressure treated wood for your purlins?
I noticed the home you're working on has shingles on a pitched roof... I have a pitched roof, but my mobile home came with some type of metal roofing... I was wondering if it would be safe, recommended, or possible to do this on a single-wide?
Looks good and quite informative. You should probably install the entire closure piece under the metal roofing material in a valley to completely prevent leaks and then tightly screw the metal roofing on top roughly 4" from the edge. This should keep the piece squished down there, so you will not loose it. Instead of putting small pieces of the closure piece in after the metal roofing material has been screwed down. Just my thoughts, I am a contractor but not a professional roofer.
I had some old closures I wanted to use up, the full closure strip wont fit when the panels are angled like they are on the valley, that's why I cut them down.
Sorry, I kinda glossed over that part, it's hard to get video and do the job at the same time, I followed the ridge line and joined the next panel before screwing it off so I can make adjustments, of course install the valley metal first to help line it up snapping a chalk line down the valley where the metal will run can help line it up, it can be tricky, not my favorite job
im fixing to do my roof ,,its the same size as yours (28x60)..I was wondering how much did it cost minus the insulation?,, don't know if I should use it or not.(insulation)., thanks for the video,, its helpful..
I don't know what part of the country you are in but is there any concern about the space between the polycarbonate and the roof metal getting nasty and unsightly because of moisture or algae? Thanks for uploading this video
I like to throw the water away from the house, the water used to splash on the windows before, because it came right down the wall but now it goes over and away and the windows stay mostly dry when it rains now.
I did cover most of the roof vents, in my case the home got noticeably cooler in the summer so I guess they weren't that important, most the roof overs I've been on, the vents are removed because they are expensive to replace and seal, they can easily leak if not done properly.
my mobile home has roof vents for the bathroom fans,they flap and make noise and let cold air come down.I want to change these when I do steel but do you have any ideas on what options I would have.
They can be very tricky, I covered the vent in the master bathroom because the cold air was coming down in the winter and I'm sure it was losing AC in the summer, I haven't missed it, on the other bathroom vent, I drilled out the rivets on the lid and replaced it after the metal was installed and it still works fine. I used to stuff paper towels in mine before I eliminated it.
Probably not needed, insulation is expensive and it might not be worth the expense if you already have insulation in the attic, my place doesn't have an attic.
TedsDixieSheds Termites need water to eat the wood, as long as the roof doesn't leak and isn't in a high moisture location it will be fine, the woods not exposed, everything is covered, you can get closure strips to seal the eves and ridge cap if you want but you might need a ridge vent.
Great video guys! Thanks! I want to do a roof over on a mobile home but it has been leaking. Do I need to repair all the wood damage and soft spots before adding the metal roof? I'm sure it would be best. Thanks again!
It would be best but I've seen people cover soft spots and have no problems, sometimes when you start repairing all the soft spots you can get in to a whole lot of fixin. Wood damage needs to be repaired if possible it needs to be safe to walk on.
In this case no because it's in full sunlight all the time, some roofs with a lot of shade can get nasty and mildewed on metal or shingles even with no clear panels covering them.
I don't like to be a critic,but cut around first pipe jack looks pretty big,I will recommend to you that existing pipe jack be removed,before panels are installed ,what I do is a tide cut around pipe and seal it,before pipe jack is installed, I personally don't like top end of valley,on a low sloope roof maybe is fine but a high sloope roof it will look pretty weird
It was around $2000 with the insulation and wood, I have seen people go directly over the shingles with no wood or insulation and screw into the plywood under the shingles. It worked but the roof looked a little lumpy, didn't leak though.
I would suggest at 11:00 to put a ring of silicone on the vent pipe just above where it will sit on the pipe and pull the boot over and down into the silicone so it the silicone sill be under the boot so the sun wont degrade it. Thanks for the video!!
Yes the insulation is to reduce noise and lower energy cost, my mobile home doesn't have the best insulation to start with so the $400 I spent will come back in reduced electric bills in a few years in my case, the difference in the electric bill wasn't as much as I had hoped but it did go down and the AC has a much easier time keeping the place cool in this summer and It's not running constantly anymore so I believe it should last longer, It's made a big difference.
Your welcome. I'm in Florida, so far there is no problem, I think it gets to hot between the panels for the algae because it still looks good, It is on the north facing side the siding needs to be cleaned once a year on that side it turns green but i haven't ever had the roof on that side turn green, but the roof is in full sun most of the day. The roof looks good, there's no discolor between the poly and metal panels yet, we have had some serious rain this summer and it hasn't leaked at all.
Yes I've done this on single wides before, just make sure when you screw down the 1x4 roof wood that the screws are hitting plywood or a roof truss below and not into sheet metal only.
Thanks Ted, My mobile home has about the same measurements and two valleys. I had a friend just had one done and $5000.00 was what she paid. I'm thinking about trying this myself, Hey that's how I learn. Thanks for the videos. Also subed you......
good for you ! gotta give you credit for jumping in there and doing it ! The reason you havent experienced greater savings in your AC is that the insulation doesnt promote air flow like a thermal blanket does. I couldnt tell if you cut a vent in the ridge as that helps air flow from the attic. Would suggest you also cut end caps for the ridge ( you may have , I just didnt see it ) to keep all those wasps, etc from getting in there...it doesnt leak and you have a 35 year roof.good job !Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this important job.. I will try the same..
By the way, you did a great job!! Congratulations!!!
Roofing contractor will charge around $5000 but the materials cost around $2000 for this one, cost will vary depending on the number of hips and valleys and the amount of vents or skylights also the chimney boot can be several hundred dollars and if you don't need the insulation it would save more so it really depends on the type and layout of the roof
Why do you not take the extra couple hours and remove the old shingles and free up some weight on that roof.
I use Tri-County Metal in Trenton Fl. they have everything you need including the 1x4 wood
The ridge is vented because I didn't use foam closure and your right about the end caps they should be covered.
Enjoyed watching... Thank you for posting :-)
Thank you for watching :)
I get it from my local metal manufacturing company Tri County Metals in Trenton Fl.
A question for you. I would be afraid of dry-wood termites getting into that virtually exposed untreated wood. Why did you not use pressure treated wood for your purlins?
So you didn't show how to go around the stove pipe. Did you leave the original flashing on and just went over it? Thanks for a great video!!!
what is the foam insulation for? keep noise down? or save energy costs?
The insulation keeps the noise down but is mainly to save on energy cost
This mobile home is 28X60 so it's right around 1700 square feet
I noticed the home you're working on has shingles on a pitched roof... I have a pitched roof, but my mobile home came with some type of metal roofing... I was wondering if it would be safe, recommended, or possible to do this on a single-wide?
Looks good and quite informative. You should probably install the entire closure piece under the metal roofing material in a valley to completely prevent leaks and then tightly screw the metal roofing on top roughly 4" from the edge. This should keep the piece squished down there, so you will not loose it. Instead of putting small pieces of the closure piece in after the metal roofing material has been screwed down. Just my thoughts, I am a contractor but not a professional roofer.
I had some old closures I wanted to use up, the full closure strip wont fit when the panels are angled like they are on the valley, that's why I cut them down.
Great job, very informative video, Im going to try this on mobile home, may I ask where you purchased the metal?
Sorry, I kinda glossed over that part, it's hard to get video and do the job at the same time, I followed the ridge line and joined the next panel before screwing it off so I can make adjustments, of course install the valley metal first to help line it up snapping a chalk line down the valley where the metal will run can help line it up, it can be tricky, not my favorite job
im fixing to do my roof ,,its the same size as yours (28x60)..I was wondering how much did it cost minus the insulation?,, don't know if I should use it or not.(insulation)., thanks for the video,, its helpful..
I don't know what part of the country you are in but is there any concern about the space between the polycarbonate and the roof metal getting nasty and unsightly because of moisture or algae? Thanks for uploading this video
Thanks for watching
Nice job.
Thanks
Dam tin around here is 35 bucks a freaking sheet, a few years ago was 12 bucks a sheet
I was just wondering why the big over hang on the metal??
I like to throw the water away from the house, the water used to splash on the windows before, because it came right down the wall but now it goes over and away and the windows stay mostly dry when it rains now.
great video I have about 14 roof vents on top looks like you didn't put yours back. is there enough spacing for air flow without them?
I did cover most of the roof vents, in my case the home got noticeably cooler in the summer so I guess they weren't that important, most the roof overs I've been on, the vents are removed because they are expensive to replace and seal, they can easily leak if not done properly.
my mobile home has roof vents for the bathroom fans,they flap and make noise and let cold air come down.I want to change these when I do steel but do you have any ideas on what options I would have.
They can be very tricky, I covered the vent in the master bathroom because the cold air was coming down in the winter and I'm sure it was losing AC in the summer, I haven't missed it, on the other bathroom vent, I drilled out the rivets on the lid and replaced it after the metal was installed and it still works fine. I used to stuff paper towels in mine before I eliminated it.
The insulation was 4 or $500
my roofer didnt use foam insulation, jsut the wood bracings. our attic is already insulated though so it it necessary?
Probably not needed, insulation is expensive and it might not be worth the expense if you already have insulation in the attic, my place doesn't have an attic.
TedsDixieSheds Termites need water to eat the wood, as long as the roof doesn't leak and isn't in a high moisture location it will be fine, the woods not exposed, everything is covered, you can get closure strips to seal the eves and ridge cap if you want but you might need a ridge vent.
TedsDixieSheds yeah they have softing on the bottom with like little holes in it and a ridge vet right at the top to ventilate hte attic i assume
randomrazr Soffit has perforations that let the air flow to help with ventilation
Great video guys! Thanks! I want to do a roof over on a mobile home but it has been leaking. Do I need to repair all the wood damage and soft spots before adding the metal roof? I'm sure it would be best. Thanks again!
It would be best but I've seen people cover soft spots and have no problems, sometimes when you start repairing all the soft spots you can get in to a whole lot of fixin. Wood damage needs to be repaired if possible it needs to be safe to walk on.
Great idea about the skylite.
Thanks
Preciate it
You're welcome
In many states if an inspector saw a metal roof over shingles on a mobile home, They would hemorrhage.
In this case no because it's in full sunlight all the time, some roofs with a lot of shade can get nasty and mildewed on metal or shingles even with no clear panels covering them.
I don't like to be a critic,but cut around first pipe jack looks pretty big,I will recommend to you that existing pipe jack be removed,before panels are installed ,what I do is a tide cut around pipe and seal it,before pipe jack is installed,
I personally don't like top end of valley,on a low sloope roof maybe is fine but a high sloope roof it will look pretty weird
It's true, I cut the hole to wide, I don't do roof overs all the time, that could have been done better but worked OK the boot still covered it.
Shouldn't the vent boot start under the sheet metal and come up through?
Not the kind I used, they are designed to slide over and conform to the shape of the panel.
What was the cost to do it yourself ?
It was around $2000 with the insulation and wood, I have seen people go directly over the shingles with no wood or insulation and screw into the plywood under the shingles. It worked but the roof looked a little lumpy, didn't leak though.
Very cool
How in the heck is the roof going to breath?
the eves and the ridge cap are vented thru the corrugations
what about the other side of the roof sheathing
What would be the average price for this job ? And were are you guys located ? Thanks
I like to see you install this roof on a 12 pitch, must be a real bitch.