I'm 70+ years old and had not done a break pad repair in 40 years. This video helped me do it on the rear (pads only) in less than 1 1/2 hours. 2015 Honda civic. Thanks so much for doing this and to others I watched. This had the piston turn tip that I needed to use.
Great video! Quick add on: Using silicon paste will prevent the sliding pins from getting gunky. Grease dries up over time while silicon paste does not. Just a tip for anyone who has gone through this too many times.
Loosen the cap on your brake fluid reservoir under the hood. This makes it easier to compress the calipers. The brake fluid inside the calipers will travel back up the brake line without any resistance and makes compressing the caliper a lot easier.
Thanks for the video!! Started trying to squeeze the piston in like the fronts, wasn't budging, then I remembered OH THAT VIDEO! My rear break pads were down to metal so I used the pad to put in the notch and turn. Problem solved. Saved that pad in the tool box for future uses.
I like it. Had been a long time since I did my own brakes. Times are tight so with some gloves, live resin, and my phone magnetically attached just above my wheel well. I proceeded to replace rear brakes without not even 1 minut issue. Thx! Good video. Oh.....don't hate on us "disruptive" truck drivers. If I was trying to make youtube vids I probably wouldn't do it next to a truck stop. 🙃
Thanks my dude. First time replacing my brakes and now that I've done it, it's rather insulting that Goodyear wanted to charge me around $200 to do this (that's including parts but still).
i bought one at lowes, as i was in the middle of the job before i realized a phillips screw driver wasn't going to work. couldn't wait on amazon. the Kobalt impact driver worked but the bit was ruined after 4 screws. kobalt doesn't sell the bits separately that i know of.
At 3:05, the reason why the inside pad wore unevenly is because the pad did not slide on the upper and lower stainless steel shims. As you indicated, both sliding pins were free to move, so that is not the issue. The trouble is, nobody cleans the rust built-up under the stainless steel shims, so the pad does not slide easily. You yourself mentioned the pad was hard to remove.
At 8:20, the rotor retaining screw/bolts are what you use to thread into those holes to remove the rotor whilst gently tapping the edge of the rotor with a hammer.
Just a tip. The rear arm has a bolt on it to hold the hand brake line in place. That bolt is the correct thread to remove the disc.. same on the front aswell ( bralineline clamp on the strut). I've used the bolt to remove the discs without belting them.
I recently did the rear brakes on my civic and I knew about lining up the "button" with the caliper piston. But when I put it back together I for the life of me could not tell if it was lined up properly or not. Is there a trick?
sir how are you, could you please help me ?, I need to change the rear bearing of a 2015 Honda Civic LX, you could guide me, or at least tell me that I have to loosen, thanks, please please
No, he is correct in his terminology. Silicon Grease is what is used in the factory as well as by Honda technitions for the caliper pins though I would have used M77 for the pad backing and "ears" but what he used is just fine.
@@aaronneason2531 premature on the lube comment but definitely think i few key steps were skipped. But like I said, one of the best videos I found for 2012 Honda civic brakes.
Well made video! Mine had more rust, so sprayed WD-40 on it to help get it apart. wonder why they dont paint these parts ? Seams like Rust-belt owner are going to have a issue here even after a few years. my 1996 Nissan Maxima had similar screw in caliper piston
Just a suggestion for removing the rotor screws. Do yourself a big favor, go to the auto store and buy a tube of valve grinding compound. Put that on the #3 philips impact bit. That will put more "bite" into turning the screw with the impact driver. Of course if you have a js3 bit, all the better, but I got mine out just fine with a ph3 bit. I put them back in with some antiseize, so it should be easier next time. The other thing is to put some antiseize around the rim where the rotor contacts the bearing hub. The last comment would be to head to the hardware store with a new rotor. Find the metric bolts that fit into the extractor holes. Buy 4 (2 for each side). Those extractor bolts make removing a rusty rotor so much easier. When done, I put the bolts into a pill bottle and labeled it rotor extractor bolts, ready for the next time now.
I also just did mine and it’s almost impossible to see if it lines up. I put a thin film of silicone grease on the piston and I think as it starts to screw out with brake pressure, it will fall into proper place. Hopefully
GM uses screws on the rotors on a lot of their post 2006 vehicles. However they use various sizes of torx bits, not Phillips. Torx are much easier in my opinion. No impact needed. Even in the rust area of Minnesota where I used to live. You could probably just change them to a torx head screw of same size if you prefer to keep them.
The brake is released the whole time. The piston will slowly press back in so you can put the caliper back on. Once everything is installed then you can press the brake a few times to get the piston back to place
Believe it or not, the reason many have trouble with the rotor mounting screws is that they are in fact not phillips head. They are actually JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) head. It's only a minor difference in design, but it makes a world of difference. If you are stripping screws on a Japanese-engineered vehicle, this is probably why. I have one of these and it works like a charm. www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE?th=1
My new trick is to tighten 2 lug nut each side of the small screw, so they push the rotor in, and relieve pressure from the screw. But make sure that the lug nuts are deep enough and that you do not damage the part that "seats" into the wheel.
Every other video on CZcams the person uses brake cleaner spray to clean the thin layer of oil on the rotors, both sides. I guess you forgot to mention that.
This video was nearly a year ago, done in June, so I’d say they probably live somewhere like me, that uses road salt for winter, thus why they are fixing in June. You can’t even hear the warning scrape sometimes, because the windows are up all winter. Salt not only rusts parts, but our cars’ bodies rust out much more quickly than, say, California. There’s a reason why people seek out vehicles that lived in warmer climates.
my dumbass friend didn't align the groove with the pimple on the brake pad (35:00) when he did my brake, which caused my brake fluid to leak. That costed me 500 bucks to replace. Also, evetime I press brake, it makes squeaky sound on the rear. Lesson learned. Do it on your own or take your car to a professional.
Baby brakes, so tiny. Try some spray brake cleaner and lube (anti seize) the edges that touch the clips for smooth movement of the pads. You can also hammer in a torx head to remove the 2 JIS screws.
Never just top off your brake fluid! The only time you should add brake fluid is after a brake pad replacement. Add your new pads and then add brake fluid fresh from a NEW bottle and then bleed your brakes making sure your fluid level is at max when you are finished. As your pads wear the level will lower in accordance with wear on the pads. If you have pristine pads but low fluid level either "A" you have a leak somewhere in your brake line or "B" when the new pads were installed the fluid level was not adjusted properly. Also as another side note if you do not adjust your fluid level eventually you will eventually drop too low and your closed system will pump air into the system leading to spongy ineffective brakes
Break compressor tool does not work with Honda's. I tell you from my experience owning two that have the screw system. Just screw the cylinder back in and you are done.
Most new rotors have a spritzing of oil on the surface from the factory. …. You should spray both sides with brake cleaner and wipe with a clean rag before installing new rotors.
I'm 70+ years old and had not done a break pad repair in 40 years. This video helped me do it on the rear (pads only) in less than 1 1/2 hours. 2015 Honda civic. Thanks so much for doing this and to others I watched. This had the piston turn tip that I needed to use.
Great video! Quick add on: Using silicon paste will prevent the sliding pins from getting gunky. Grease dries up over time while silicon paste does not. Just a tip for anyone who has gone through this too many times.
Loosen the cap on your brake fluid reservoir under the hood. This makes it easier to compress the calipers. The brake fluid inside the calipers will travel back up the brake line without any resistance and makes compressing the caliper a lot easier.
Thanks for that tip. I haven't done this yet but that's good to know
*Only do this after the brakes are cool! You can get severe burns if you do this before they are cool!
Make a video on it and tagg me
Thanks for the video!! Started trying to squeeze the piston in like the fronts, wasn't budging, then I remembered OH THAT VIDEO! My rear break pads were down to metal so I used the pad to put in the notch and turn. Problem solved. Saved that pad in the tool box for future uses.
I like it. Had been a long time since I did my own brakes. Times are tight so with some gloves, live resin, and my phone magnetically attached just above my wheel well. I proceeded to replace rear brakes without not even 1 minut issue. Thx! Good video. Oh.....don't hate on us "disruptive" truck drivers. If I was trying to make youtube vids I probably wouldn't do it next to a truck stop. 🙃
Thanks my dude. First time replacing my brakes and now that I've done it, it's rather insulting that Goodyear wanted to charge me around $200 to do this (that's including parts but still).
Thank you for your video I changed the brakes on my buddies Honda Civic 2014 within 20 minutes on each side.
Thanks Man your video help me a lot. I Finally changed my 2013 civic si brakes for the first time...had 74k miles.
I like your video. Very good for beginners and ones who want to learn.
Thanks for the video. I didn't know about rotating the piston. I was trying to compress it with a C clamp like the front brakes. Helped me out a lot.
Your video was very informative. Thank you.
Thank you for your tutorial. It was helpful.
Thank you for the video, you did me a service, I used a chisel but you gave me the idea, guy at Autozone said clamps should work lol
Thanks! Good video, trying this today!
I have this exact problem on my rear left going to fix it myself after I watch your video
Nice video ! Just be carefull not to damage the seal of the caliper with the metal plate!
This helped me. Thank you.
Awesome video. Very detailed. 👍👍
i bought one at lowes, as i was in the middle of the job before i realized a phillips screw driver wasn't going to work. couldn't wait on amazon. the Kobalt impact driver worked but the bit was ruined after 4 screws. kobalt doesn't sell the bits separately that i know of.
58gennaro: That because it’s not a “Phillips.” It’s actually a “JIS” (Japanese Industrial Standard), similar shape but it is different.
Excellent explanation of the step by step process. Doing my daughter's civic brakes this weekend. Thank you so much for the vid!
Thanks for the video!
Thanks man good video
Great video, thanks for sharing.
At 3:05, the reason why the inside pad wore unevenly is because the pad did not slide on the upper and lower stainless steel shims. As you indicated, both sliding pins were free to move, so that is not the issue. The trouble is, nobody cleans the rust built-up under the stainless steel shims, so the pad does not slide easily. You yourself mentioned the pad was hard to remove.
The piston needs to be positioned like "+" so that the matching pin on the back of the brake pad lines up
great DIY vid!! TY!
At 8:20, the rotor retaining screw/bolts are what you use to thread into those holes to remove the rotor whilst gently tapping the edge of the rotor with a hammer.
Thanks, I used the video today
Very helpful thank you
Hi what is a purpose of the pin on back of pad which goes in caliper screw?
Thanks for the video. How do you look to make sure one of the nubs is in the cross part of the piston?
Nice job. Thanks!
Just a tip. The rear arm has a bolt on it to hold the hand brake line in place. That bolt is the correct thread to remove the disc.. same on the front aswell ( bralineline clamp on the strut). I've used the bolt to remove the discs without belting them.
Thank you!!
I have 2015 Civic can you recommend rear rotors for it? Link in description says it won't fit for 2015.
Great video thanks
LOL that truck at 12:40 needs brake work done bad! 😂
Great video. What is the torque tightness of the 12mm bolt that holds the caliper? Thank you
I recently did the rear brakes on my civic and I knew about lining up the "button" with the caliper piston. But when I put it back together I for the life of me could not tell if it was lined up properly or not. Is there a trick?
sir how are you, could you please help me ?, I need to change the rear bearing of a 2015 Honda Civic LX, you could guide me, or at least tell me that I have to loosen, thanks, please please
Ur the man
Anyone have torque specifications on this and the front? Thanks!
Lube not grease. No brake cleaner?
Still one of the most well done videos on changing brakes I've seen.
No, he is correct in his terminology. Silicon Grease is what is used in the factory as well as by Honda technitions for the caliper pins though I would have used M77 for the pad backing and "ears" but what he used is just fine.
@@aaronneason2531 premature on the lube comment but definitely think i few key steps were skipped. But like I said, one of the best videos I found for 2012 Honda civic brakes.
Are the rotors & pads you had used the same for 2012 civic also ? Appreciate the great video & links for purchases.
Mike
A 3/8ths socket wrench head works to screw the piston back in. Just put it in the center of the cross of the piston and crank the wrench as normal.
Well made video! Mine had more rust, so sprayed WD-40 on it to help get it apart. wonder why they dont paint these parts ? Seams like Rust-belt owner are going to have a issue here even after a few years. my 1996 Nissan Maxima had similar screw in caliper piston
Just a suggestion for removing the rotor screws. Do yourself a big favor, go to the auto store and buy a tube of valve grinding compound. Put that on the #3 philips impact bit. That will put more "bite" into turning the screw with the impact driver. Of course if you have a js3 bit, all the better, but I got mine out just fine with a ph3 bit. I put them back in with some antiseize, so it should be easier next time. The other thing is to put some antiseize around the rim where the rotor contacts the bearing hub. The last comment would be to head to the hardware store with a new rotor. Find the metric bolts that fit into the extractor holes. Buy 4 (2 for each side). Those extractor bolts make removing a rusty rotor so much easier. When done, I put the bolts into a pill bottle and labeled it rotor extractor bolts, ready for the next time now.
I just use a BIG screwdriver to compress the calipers. Works great.
If you don't line the cross up on the piston with the nub on the pad do you know of hat can happen? I just did mine and I'm not sure it lined up
I also just did mine and it’s almost impossible to see if it lines up. I put a thin film of silicone grease on the piston and I think as it starts to screw out with brake pressure, it will fall into proper place. Hopefully
GM uses screws on the rotors on a lot of their post 2006 vehicles. However they use various sizes of torx bits, not Phillips. Torx are much easier in my opinion. No impact needed. Even in the rust area of Minnesota where I used to live. You could probably just change them to a torx head screw of same size if you prefer to keep them.
I seen on another CZcams channel someone used a flat head screwdriver on an angle to turn the cylinder.
Use a pry bar to turn in the caliper piston
nice car
Pad Slider grease?
Fun fact: you can use the squealer on the old pads for the notch tool.
great video! I have a question if you release the brake before you turned the piston?
The brake is released the whole time. The piston will slowly press back in so you can put the caliper back on. Once everything is installed then you can press the brake a few times to get the piston back to place
Has anyone driven a 9th gen civic without the rear discs and with rear discs. Lx vs ex. - just curious if there’s a noticeable difference
I have a 2012 civic ex and the back bolt not a 12mm.
Believe it or not, the reason many have trouble with the rotor mounting screws is that they are in fact not phillips head. They are actually JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) head. It's only a minor difference in design, but it makes a world of difference. If you are stripping screws on a Japanese-engineered vehicle, this is probably why. I have one of these and it works like a charm.
www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE?th=1
Very true, they are JIS, but they can still get rusted into place and still be a pain
@@JRobling Yes. I use an impact screwdriver. Having a heavy hammer is key.
Use a 3/4 socket wrench tip to turn the bit back in super easy and a impact drill makes life way easier then the screw driver.
My brake fluid bolt won’t come off …
Car needs to be in neutral when replacing rear brakes? Is it the same for front brakes?
The car needs to have the ebrake off when replacing the rear brakes, not in neutral, it would roll away. Front brakes doesn't matter
Note from factory* if the replacement brakes have the shim already attached they say no brake quite or any other products on the pads.
💪
I didn't realize my tool not only uses screw driver bits but also sockets. Shityou do learn something new sometimes. Lol
I just left the rotor screws off. Wasn't as easy as yours, so had to drill them out.
My new trick is to tighten 2 lug nut each side of the small screw, so they push the rotor in, and relieve pressure from the screw. But make sure that the lug nuts are deep enough and that you do not damage the part that "seats" into the wheel.
Do I have to bleed the brakes after I'm done replacing them?
You only need to bleed the brakes if you replace the brake lines or calipers
GM has a screw in the rotor too.
Every other video on CZcams the person uses brake cleaner spray to clean the thin layer of oil on the rotors, both sides. I guess you forgot to mention that.
I just used a putty knife to turn my rotor back in.
#1 flat head screwdriver for turning in the caliper back in. Lol
👍🇸🇪
thats a lot of rust for only 5 years, where do you live ??
This video was nearly a year ago, done in June, so I’d say they probably live somewhere like me, that uses road salt for winter, thus why they are fixing in June. You can’t even hear the warning scrape sometimes, because the windows are up all winter. Salt not only rusts parts, but our cars’ bodies rust out much more quickly than, say, California. There’s a reason why people seek out vehicles that lived in warmer climates.
my dumbass friend didn't align the groove with the pimple on the brake pad (35:00) when he did my brake, which caused my brake fluid to leak. That costed me 500 bucks to replace. Also, evetime I press brake, it makes squeaky sound on the rear. Lesson learned. Do it on your own or take your car to a professional.
Baby brakes, so tiny.
Try some spray brake cleaner and lube (anti seize) the edges that touch the clips for smooth movement of the pads.
You can also hammer in a torx head to remove the 2 JIS screws.
You should never have to top off your brake fluid
Unless brake fluid is lost when a new caliper is installed. That's not the case in this video though.
You don't take the top off just unscrew the top to relieve pressure to get the caliper piston back in
Never just top off your brake fluid! The only time you should add brake fluid is after a brake pad replacement. Add your new pads and then add brake fluid fresh from a NEW bottle and then bleed your brakes making sure your fluid level is at max when you are finished. As your pads wear the level will lower in accordance with wear on the pads. If you have pristine pads but low fluid level either "A" you have a leak somewhere in your brake line or "B" when the new pads were installed the fluid level was not adjusted properly. Also as another side note if you do not adjust your fluid level eventually you will eventually drop too low and your closed system will pump air into the system leading to spongy ineffective brakes
That a boy try and try
silicone on pins no grease very important grease hardins up like glue
You can rent a brake compressor tool for free from auto zone
Break compressor tool does not work with Honda's. I tell you from my experience owning two that have the screw system. Just screw the cylinder back in and you are done.
Most new rotors have a spritzing of oil on the surface from the factory. …. You should spray both sides with brake cleaner and wipe with a clean rag before installing new rotors.