Had same symptoms first time out after putting in new water pump. I immediately checked thermostats, one was stuck open so I changed them both after forcing 40psi hose water through block and out the top to flush out any loose stuff. But the gauge light and Buzzer still went off after 5 minutes. After finally deciding to search online I found your video, pulled poppet valve, found one side of spring had a broken clip so orifice was cocked to one side allowing water to pass, put in a good poppet from a Suzuki parts engine, problem solved. Thanks for posting the video, there is no telling how long it would have taken me to find this simple failure had I not watched this.
Update. I had multiple issues that created the same symptoms. 1. The Sierra water pump was not a good fit and failed to pump sufficiently. Changed to Suzuki, problem remained. 2. Changed thermostats. Problem remained. 3. Changed water pressure control valve, problem remained. 4. Cleaned all water ports, hoses, etc. No blockages, problem remained. 5. In the end, one of the new thermostats failed after I changed the water pump. This created the same symptoms. Found broken thermostat and problem solved. Moral of story, stick with Suzuki parts, as thermostats were aftermarket too. Good news, I know everything about Suzuki cooling systems. Thanks for watching.
my 250 zuki 5 years old up here in ''mud'' country, Jax. Fl. St. Johns River. just had a 'clogged' fuel cooler...100% plugged up. Motor starved of fuel after 3-4 hrs. of running, then when off, would start suck vapors? and wouldn't run. A really good mechanic (yamaha/merc guy) said ALL fuel coolers can get clogged, running in the toilet water we have here. He see's it commonly, like ethanol problems. Never a single sensor ever went off, either. So, i'm adding hours of RYDLYME flushing to my 6 month maintenance schedule. In the charter biz, so my motor is my life.
Thanks for all the comments. One other thing I did was raise the idle from 650rpms to 700rpms. Suzuki recommends 650-700. I did this because my problem still came back when the impeller got a little age on it. When changed it was fine. Since I upped the idle, manifold over temp issues have gone away. Thanks for watching.
Thanks!!! I was looking for a solution with this problem. The mechanic told me that he have to oper the engine, because a possible obstruction in the jackets. But the water go out well. So, i should change that part and i will wrote you, because i can use the boat around 5 hours, and when stop at relentí, then the temp go up. Thanks again from Barcelona - Spain
Please look at my final video. The root was not the part, it was the factory idle set too low. If the idle is set using the Suzuki gauge, it is plausible for the idle to be set 30-50rpms to low, but show 650 on the electronic gauge. I used the butterfly idle adjustments on the engine to achieve 700rpms at warm idle, and that solved my problem. It was only a quarter turn of the idle screw that made the difference. 2 years and no more over hear issues. I’m assuming that the temp sensor that is causing your alarm in the port side manifold sensor. If not, you may have a different issue.
Awesome info. I got the same problem on my DF300. Gonna replace thermostats and pop it valve. Props to your brother!🙏👍. I’ll let you know if this fixes my issue.
Not sure if you saw the final video, but the root of my issue was low idle. When the boat was set up, I’m guessing they used the rpm gauge on the Suzuki cluster. This only reads on my boat in 50 rpm increments, and I don’t know what rpm causes it to change from 600-650-700. Mine was set where it read 650 at idle, but it may have been idling at 601 for all I know. I did a slight idle adjustment on the rear butterfly valves, and now my rpm gauge reads 700 at warm idle. This is what fixed my issue, which was a manifold temp sensor on the starboard side of the engine. I changed all the parts and 50rpm idle change fixed mine. Been ok for 2 years now. Hope this helps.
Same thing happend in my DF140 but changed the pressure valve and the heat sensor at the same time and that fixed the problem. Can’t tell if the problem was from the pressure valve or from the heat sensor.
Check out my last video. The root of my issue turned out to be the idle was set to low. If you have the factory gauge, it changes in 50rpm increments. Range for idle is 650-700, but without attaching a meter to measure exact rpm, 650 might be 601. Can’t be sure when the gauge goes to 650. Changed mine to read 700, never another problem and the hot spot on the starboard manifold temp sensor went away. Good luck.
Thanks. I actually did several videos. The root of my issue ended up being a low idle. The rpm gauge only changes in increments of 50. Mine was reading 650, but was actually lower. I increased the idle to 700 and no more issues. The appropriate idle is 650-700.
Yes that appears to be it. I made a couple more videos on the problem as well. I think if you subscribe they will pop up, but anyway I chased this problem for a year. In a nutshell, my issue ultimately was the motor was idled too low. The Suzuki gauge moves in 50 rpm increments. Suzuki states 650-700 is the correct idle. I have a long shaft motor, and although my idle showed 650, I think it was idling closer to 625 or less. I made a minor adjustment to the idle set screws on the intake butterflies(1/4 turn), and now my gauge at warm idle reads 700. At cold idle it still reads 650, but as the engine warms it moves to 700. Since I did that, all my overheat issues at idle have gone. Hope this helps.
The small increase in idle allowed the engine to pump the required volume of water to the top of the engine and prevent the exhaust manifold temp from rising too rapidly, which was what was causing the alarm. It. Ever reached an overheat threshold, but the computer monitors temp rise, and if the temp starts to rise too fast, it goes into alarm to prevent overheating.
Thanks for sharing, been having the same issue with my 07 df200 and will check it tomorrow and see what happens, changed out all other parts beside the pressure release valve. Thanks again.
how do you test the temp sensor Sir... I am getting a BEEP every 3-4 seconds at idle both on muffs and in the water. When I put it in gear it goes away. Put it back in idle and it comes back but with NO visual lights only audible BEEP. I changed out the Thermostats and this valve/ thermostat you are talking about all new parts... but still getting this alarm... Any Advice?
When you get the beep does the engine go into limp mode? What engine temp do you see? Do you have a laser thermometer to scan the engine while running. Especially right where the sensor is? What RPM is the engine idling at? You need an ohm meter to check the sensor. You will need to look up the resistance, but I think it is about 20k or more ohms. If you want to shoot me your number at saltyflag@yahoo.com I will be glad to discuss. It took me over a year to figure it out. The root of mine was low idle.
@@rjyoungjr mine is idleing a bit high, 1100, I'll work on that this weekend. I do not have a lazer temp, but will be buying one this weekend as well. Today my starter went out,, so gotta fix that first. Sending you an email now... Thanks for your help.
@@rjyoungjr no when it beeps the engine sounds the same... I'm idling at 1000RPMs which is too high. I put new thermostats in and water pressure reg. thermostat. Just don't know how to get this idle back down to 750ish RPMs
I just got a df25 and it does the same thing. I have not run it full throttle yet but I ran it for like half an hour at idle and jt overheated. I felt the water and it was insanely hot.
I have a few questions about your situation. Was the boat in the water when you was idling? Or was it on muffs? Do you have a Suzuki gauge on the boat. If so what rpm does it read when at idle and at operating temp? Do you have a laser thermometer that you can check temp around the motor with the cowling off to look for hot spots? Is the motor new? How long since the impeller was changed?
@@rjyoungjr I had it in a bucket. I tried muffs but they didn’t work (west marine muffs, pretty sure they were just bad) I don’t have an rpm reader, however it was on low idle. The impeller is brand new. The motor itself is actually a 2000, but I bought it from a shop. I’m 14 so mu budget is tight which is why I went with that option. As for the thermostat, no. I might be looking to replace it though as this happened.
I have the same engine DF250. Today I ran the engine after sitting for almost 2 months, and it runs very hot at idle. I ran it for 2 minutes and I turned it off. The laser temp gun was reading between 180 and 194. I did not hear any alarm. Water comes out from the tell tale. Is this engine supposed to run very hot? I have not checked anything yet. Thank you
Were you running it on muffs or was the engine submerged. This engine will not cool properly using muffs. It must be in a barrel, or you can hook the hose up to the rear hose wash port and run it. Just don’t rev the engine. Idle only. If everything is working right, should be around 140 on the temp gauge. I don’t remember what the high temp range is on the engine before alarm, but it’s hotter than you would suspect. However, even here in Florida running hard in almost 90 degree gulf waters, mine never gets above 160.
Had same symptoms first time out after putting in new water pump. I immediately checked thermostats, one was stuck open so I changed them both after forcing 40psi hose water through block and out the top to flush out any loose stuff. But the gauge light and Buzzer still went off after 5 minutes. After finally deciding to search online I found your video, pulled poppet valve, found one side of spring had a broken clip so orifice was cocked to one side allowing water to pass, put in a good poppet from a Suzuki parts engine, problem solved. Thanks for posting the video, there is no telling how long it would have taken me to find this simple failure had I not watched this.
did it idle high?
Update. I had multiple issues that created the same symptoms.
1. The Sierra water pump was not a good fit and failed to pump sufficiently. Changed to Suzuki, problem remained.
2. Changed thermostats. Problem remained.
3. Changed water pressure control valve, problem remained.
4. Cleaned all water ports, hoses, etc. No blockages, problem remained.
5. In the end, one of the new thermostats failed after I changed the water pump. This created the same symptoms. Found broken thermostat and problem solved.
Moral of story, stick with Suzuki parts, as thermostats were aftermarket too. Good news, I know everything about Suzuki cooling systems. Thanks for watching.
my 250 zuki 5 years old up here in ''mud'' country, Jax. Fl. St. Johns River. just had a 'clogged' fuel cooler...100% plugged up. Motor starved of fuel after 3-4 hrs. of running, then when off, would start suck vapors? and wouldn't run. A really good mechanic (yamaha/merc guy) said ALL fuel coolers can get clogged, running in the toilet water we have here. He see's it commonly, like ethanol problems. Never a single sensor ever went off, either. So, i'm adding hours of RYDLYME flushing to my 6 month maintenance schedule. In the charter biz, so my motor is my life.
Thomas Johnson sometimes that is the case for sure. Just not on the water pump and thermostats I used.
Thanks for all the comments. One other thing I did was raise the idle from 650rpms to 700rpms. Suzuki recommends 650-700. I did this because my problem still came back when the impeller got a little age on it. When changed it was fine. Since I upped the idle, manifold over temp issues have gone away. Thanks for watching.
Thanks!!! I was looking for a solution with this problem. The mechanic told me that he have to oper the engine, because a possible obstruction in the jackets. But the water go out well.
So, i should change that part and i will wrote you, because i can use the boat around 5 hours, and when stop at relentí, then the temp go up.
Thanks again from Barcelona - Spain
Please look at my final video. The root was not the part, it was the factory idle set too low. If the idle is set using the Suzuki gauge, it is plausible for the idle to be set 30-50rpms to low, but show 650 on the electronic gauge. I used the butterfly idle adjustments on the engine to achieve 700rpms at warm idle, and that solved my problem. It was only a quarter turn of the idle screw that made the difference. 2 years and no more over hear issues. I’m assuming that the temp sensor that is causing your alarm in the port side manifold sensor. If not, you may have a different issue.
Awesome info. I got the same problem on my DF300. Gonna replace thermostats and pop it valve. Props to your brother!🙏👍. I’ll let you know if this fixes my issue.
Not sure if you saw the final video, but the root of my issue was low idle. When the boat was set up, I’m guessing they used the rpm gauge on the Suzuki cluster. This only reads on my boat in 50 rpm increments, and I don’t know what rpm causes it to change from 600-650-700. Mine was set where it read 650 at idle, but it may have been idling at 601 for all I know. I did a slight idle adjustment on the rear butterfly valves, and now my rpm gauge reads 700 at warm idle. This is what fixed my issue, which was a manifold temp sensor on the starboard side of the engine. I changed all the parts and 50rpm idle change fixed mine. Been ok for 2 years now. Hope this helps.
Same thing happend in my DF140 but changed the pressure valve and the heat sensor at the same time and that fixed the problem. Can’t tell if the problem was from the pressure valve or from the heat sensor.
Check out my last video. The root of my issue turned out to be the idle was set to low. If you have the factory gauge, it changes in 50rpm increments. Range for idle is 650-700, but without attaching a meter to measure exact rpm, 650 might be 601. Can’t be sure when the gauge goes to 650. Changed mine to read 700, never another problem and the hot spot on the starboard manifold temp sensor went away. Good luck.
@@rjyoungjr that’s very interesting, thank you for sharing this information. 👍
Great video, thanks for tips! This answers all my questions!! 👍👍
Thanks you so much for this video. It’s help me to solved my problem with my Suzuki motor. 🤜🏽🤜🏽👍👍
Thanks. I actually did several videos. The root of my issue ended up being a low idle. The rpm gauge only changes in increments of 50. Mine was reading 650, but was actually lower. I increased the idle to 700 and no more issues. The appropriate idle is 650-700.
Thank you very much for sharing ! I got the same problem ! Same engine ... running hot on idle !
Are you still having overheat issues? If so, verify your idle.
Thanks, very informative video.
awesome vid my friend
Best advice
Thanks for the video @Salty Flag TV. Just to clarify, is the water pressure control valve that you are referring to Suzuki part # 17660-99E01?
Yes that appears to be it. I made a couple more videos on the problem as well. I think if you subscribe they will pop up, but anyway I chased this problem for a year. In a nutshell, my issue ultimately was the motor was idled too low. The Suzuki gauge moves in 50 rpm increments. Suzuki states 650-700 is the correct idle. I have a long shaft motor, and although my idle showed 650, I think it was idling closer to 625 or less. I made a minor adjustment to the idle set screws on the intake butterflies(1/4 turn), and now my gauge at warm idle reads 700. At cold idle it still reads 650, but as the engine warms it moves to 700. Since I did that, all my overheat issues at idle have gone. Hope this helps.
The small increase in idle allowed the engine to pump the required volume of water to the top of the engine and prevent the exhaust manifold temp from rising too rapidly, which was what was causing the alarm. It. Ever reached an overheat threshold, but the computer monitors temp rise, and if the temp starts to rise too fast, it goes into alarm to prevent overheating.
Informative thank you
great advice i have same motor same problems hard to fine part thanks
it did work i had the same problem with a 2007 Suzuki 300df
Thanks for sharing, been having the same issue with my 07 df200 and will check it tomorrow and see what happens, changed out all other parts beside the pressure release valve. Thanks again.
Thanks a lot!
You're welcome!
Chris, check my follow up videos. I added more info and a recap on another issue I found. Glad it helps.
how do you test the temp sensor Sir... I am getting a BEEP every 3-4 seconds at idle both on muffs and in the water. When I put it in gear it goes away. Put it back in idle and it comes back but with NO visual lights only audible BEEP. I changed out the Thermostats and this valve/ thermostat you are talking about all new parts... but still getting this alarm... Any Advice?
When you get the beep does the engine go into limp mode? What engine temp do you see? Do you have a laser thermometer to scan the engine while running. Especially right where the sensor is? What RPM is the engine idling at?
You need an ohm meter to check the sensor. You will need to look up the resistance, but I think it is about 20k or more ohms. If you want to shoot me your number at saltyflag@yahoo.com I will be glad to discuss. It took me over a year to figure it out. The root of mine was low idle.
@@rjyoungjr mine is idleing a bit high, 1100, I'll work on that this weekend. I do not have a lazer temp, but will be buying one this weekend as well. Today my starter went out,, so gotta fix that first. Sending you an email now... Thanks for your help.
@@rjyoungjr no when it beeps the engine sounds the same... I'm idling at 1000RPMs which is too high. I put new thermostats in and water pressure reg. thermostat. Just don't know how to get this idle back down to 750ish RPMs
@@FreedomWon20 I don’t have an email from you yet. Give me a call if you want. 678-951-4479. Thanks, joey
@@rjyoungjr mkharrell20@yahoo.com
I just got a df25 and it does the same thing. I have not run it full throttle yet but I ran it for like half an hour at idle and jt overheated. I felt the water and it was insanely hot.
I have a few questions about your situation. Was the boat in the water when you was idling? Or was it on muffs? Do you have a Suzuki gauge on the boat. If so what rpm does it read when at idle and at operating temp? Do you have a laser thermometer that you can check temp around the motor with the cowling off to look for hot spots? Is the motor new? How long since the impeller was changed?
@@rjyoungjr I had it in a bucket. I tried muffs but they didn’t work (west marine muffs, pretty sure they were just bad) I don’t have an rpm reader, however it was on low idle. The impeller is brand new. The motor itself is actually a 2000, but I bought it from a shop. I’m 14 so mu budget is tight which is why I went with that option. As for the thermostat, no. I might be looking to replace it though as this happened.
Is it a 25hp or a 250?
@@rjyoungjr 25hp. I have a small 14ft McKee Craft.
Ok. That motor is vastly different than mine. Check for blockage and thermostat. Good luck.
I have the same engine DF250. Today I ran the engine after sitting for almost 2 months, and it runs very hot at idle. I ran it for 2 minutes and I turned it off. The laser temp gun was reading between 180 and 194. I did not hear any alarm. Water comes out from the tell tale. Is this engine supposed to run very hot? I have not checked anything yet. Thank you
Were you running it on muffs or was the engine submerged. This engine will not cool properly using muffs. It must be in a barrel, or you can hook the hose up to the rear hose wash port and run it. Just don’t rev the engine. Idle only. If everything is working right, should be around 140 on the temp gauge.
I don’t remember what the high temp range is on the engine before alarm, but it’s hotter than you would suspect. However, even here in Florida running hard in almost 90 degree gulf waters, mine never gets above 160.
@@rjyoungjr Thanks. I was running the engine on muffs. I will try the other way and see what happens.
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