Agreed thank you. I have an r100rs 1990 model that I am going to have to do a lot of work on shortly and I really appreciate you putting these out here. Also as said above your attention to detail and clear instructions are invaluable!
Another excellent video. After watching your work and absorbing your amazingly clear explanation, I feel like it could rebuild an R100RS myself without any difficulty.
Hi Peter, Well thank you. As the old saying goes, "It's easy when you know how." That's the reason I have been publishing my projects for the past 12 years on my web site. I keep learning on every project, so it never gets old. I hope the material encourages folks who own these machines to get their hands dirty.
Hi Urban, BMW increased the depth of the oil pan on this bike. But, it wasn't for more oil capacity, it was to lower the depth of the oil to reduce "windage" which is the froth created as the crank throws spin above the oil. The froth reduces lubrication and increases crankcase breather oil that has to be burned in the carburetors. I typically keep my oil level below about 3/4 full on the dip stick for that reason.
Brilliant once again, but how did you know that the oil pump gasket needed replacing ? Or is this just a tutorial on how you should do it ,Thanks Malcolm.
great video! now stupid question, you use a marker on to see if the pan is flat after you sanded it, but you have applied water to the sandpaper, so doesnt it just wash the marks off? :D
I found two stripped bolts on mine. not exactly a good day in my neighbourhood :( What would you do, go to the next size hole and fit. two different size screws?
last airhead, I would install 6 mm heli-coil inserts. You have to drill the hole for the insert square to the engine block. There is a drill jig I use from Big Gator: biggatortools.com/v-drillguide-faqs It comes in metric and US thread sizes and keeps the drill bit square to the block.
Hi last airhead: You are correct. You have to install an insert. I find Helicoil inserts work fine in this application. It is very important to get the hole square to the face of the engine block. I use this handy tool to drill the hole. --> www.shop.biggatortools.com/Drill-Guides_c3.htm
@@BrooksAirheadGarage thank you! I will take out my oil sump today (lock in the house with this C-19 virus) and just checked the service manual for the torque setting. Guess what: as you say, they must have multiple values, mine says 10 Nm (or 7.37 ft lb). I remember I torqued them last time by the book - cold engine. After 3000 km some oil started leaking. I torqued them again - 10 Nm again, and now still leaking. Just 2 drops, but still, very annoying. Should I clean and use the same gasket (it s rather new - less than 3500 km - or replace it? Quite difficult now to get a new gasket.
61naga, No that defeats the heat activated glue the gasket is impregnated with. And, you do NOT want any excess silicone squeezed out when you tighten the oil pan bolts to get into the oil system. That could cost you a motor. Yeah, I know, I'm an overly cautious sissy when it comes to this stuff. :-)
Agreed thank you. I have an r100rs 1990 model that I am going to have to do a lot of work on shortly and I really appreciate you putting these out here. Also as said above your attention to detail and clear instructions are invaluable!
Matthew, It's good to hear you are going to invest the time to keep another airhead on the road. Best of success.
Another excellent video. After watching your work and absorbing your amazingly clear explanation, I feel like it could rebuild an R100RS myself without any difficulty.
Hi Peter, Well thank you. As the old saying goes, "It's easy when you know how." That's the reason I have been publishing my projects for the past 12 years on my web site. I keep learning on every project, so it never gets old. I hope the material encourages folks who own these machines to get their hands dirty.
Thanks Brooks!
Thanks again. I am always inspired by your attention to detail.
You're welcome Cam.
Amazing video and explanation. Thanks!
You’re welcome Adam 😀
Great videos. Very instructive ! Thx !
Any recommendation for brand oil ? Engine and gear ? Castrol GTX 20W50 ?
Hi Mr Brook.
I`ve got the extra deep oilpan from Siebenrock.
Gives you about a litre more enginoil.
Thanks for your great videos!
Hi Urban, BMW increased the depth of the oil pan on this bike. But, it wasn't for more oil capacity, it was to lower the depth of the oil to reduce "windage" which is the froth created as the crank throws spin above the oil. The froth reduces lubrication and increases crankcase breather oil that has to be burned in the carburetors. I typically keep my oil level below about 3/4 full on the dip stick for that reason.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks,for that info.Interesting.
Great video, thanks for posting it.
You're welcome Jim.
Brilliant once again, but how did you know that the oil pump gasket needed replacing ? Or is this just a tutorial on how you should do it ,Thanks Malcolm.
Thanks for all your work!!!
Thanks for coming by Jordi.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage i' m doing a r80 gs Basic replica.
@@jordicortiella3997 Cool Beans. Best of success on that project.
great video! now stupid question, you use a marker on to see if the pan is flat after you sanded it, but you have applied water to the sandpaper, so doesnt it just wash the marks off? :D
I found two stripped bolts on mine. not exactly a good day in my neighbourhood :(
What would you do, go to the next size hole and fit. two different size screws?
last airhead, I would install 6 mm heli-coil inserts. You have to drill the hole for the insert square to the engine block. There is a drill jig I use from Big Gator: biggatortools.com/v-drillguide-faqs It comes in metric and US thread sizes and keeps the drill bit square to the block.
nice job! I did all the steps but checking if the pan is perfectly flat. I will check next time. How do you deal with a stripped bolt? coil inserts?
Hi last airhead: You are correct. You have to install an insert. I find Helicoil inserts work fine in this application. It is very important to get the hole square to the face of the engine block. I use this handy tool to drill the hole.
--> www.shop.biggatortools.com/Drill-Guides_c3.htm
@@BrooksAirheadGarage thank you! I will take out my oil sump today (lock in the house with this C-19 virus) and just checked the service manual for the torque setting. Guess what: as you say, they must have multiple values, mine says 10 Nm (or 7.37 ft lb). I remember I torqued them last time by the book - cold engine. After 3000 km some oil started leaking. I torqued them again - 10 Nm again, and now still leaking. Just 2 drops, but still, very annoying. Should I clean and use the same gasket (it s rather new - less than 3500 km - or replace it? Quite difficult now to get a new gasket.
No need to put some silicone on the gasket? Thanks
61naga, No that defeats the heat activated glue the gasket is impregnated with. And, you do NOT want any excess silicone squeezed out when you tighten the oil pan bolts to get into the oil system. That could cost you a motor. Yeah, I know, I'm an overly cautious sissy when it comes to this stuff. :-)
@@BrooksAirheadGarage thanks Sir