Watch our RTX 2070 "secret GPU" comparison! czcams.com/video/eZJcXHOn42Y/video.html Super basic stuff today. We're working on a ton of testing in-house for dying RTX cards and for Z390 motherboards, so enjoy this easy video for today!
btosinte website (Build to Order Servers) inc is an authorized seasonic dealer, I had to buy some for an old 750 I lost the cables for. Reasonably priced, the alternative are sites that sell seasonic sleeved cables at "enthusiast" prices.
@@g.s777 Extensions won't damage your PSU, because like their namesake they only extend the end that plugs to your component. The location of the pins is the same, they don't switch places and won't matter since you're extending the 24pin, 8pin EPS, or PCI 8/6pin. OTOH the modular cables that come out from the PSU the side that plugs into your PSU have propietary plugs and pin outs and they may switch, move around. Those need to be specific to your PSU or line of PSU, even within tha same brand the pin out can change from model to model. TL,DR: Extensions doesn't matter what PSU you use it on. Modular cable replacements, you need the specific for your brand/model.
Let me make a niave comment, wouldn't it be great if PSUs had a standard for the cables as well as the other standards out there (size ATX, efficiency 80+ etc). I wonder why there isn't more consistency, feels like it'd be a win for everyone? I'd love to keep my cable mod cables for my corsair power supply for 2-3 builds, perhaps I can after watching this.
I suppose it comes down to how willing the manufacturers are to work with each other. The trouble is that everyone thinks they have a better "standard" than their competition, and no one really wants to concede and adopt what someone else is using. EVGA, for example, has universal power headers on some of its PSUs (so you can plug EPS12V in anywhere, or PCIe anywhere), but this is expensive and bulky. While EVGA likes it as a marketing point, another company might not for either cost or size reasons. Then you have the inverse -- some company make extra small connectors to meet tinier form factors, which introduces different complications. Fortunately, the system-side is standardized, so we only have to worry about one end.
@@kennya5165 with what tools`i live in little denmark and is not easy to finde the right tools. so i tried making my own. :S but yeah that didn't go so well. i have the Corsair RM550x and love it. but it's in a Metis tower (mini-itx) so my pci-e was waaay to long. only need a few inches :P would love to make one myself. because the cablemod site confused me. soo yeah maybe with the right tools. just can't find em.
@@Lorten369 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GOIY1NE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - This is the tool I have to remove the pins from the connectors, I think it works great. This is really all you need for it unless you're doing a bunch of other modifications. Other channels (maybe even GN, I haven't seen one from them but I don't know) have plenty of custom sleeving tutorials that demonstrate how to use the tool and remove pins. If you don't know how to map the psu pinout, there are videos on that as well. You will need a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) if you need to map it. But you can usually find the voltage map on the manufacturer's website.
@@tikabass actually, on some there are. I recently had that issue with a guy I work with, he thought the speaker was broken. turns out the sound was just turned off. pretty sure it was a Fluke. He's an old guy, doesn't know much about electronics, just knows how to "check the millivolts" on the load cells.
@@kennya5165 I've never seen one. Not on a Fluke, nor on a Metrix, nor on an Agilent, nor on any other meters I've worked with in the last 30 years. Even bench-top ones. A continuity tester is not a metronome. If there is a pot on the meter, it's to zero the resistance reading,, not a volume control.
Wish i knew this 4 months ago. Mixed some evga cables with a seasonic psu and i fried a 500gb mx500, 2 tb wd black , rbg controller for my corsair fans and the psu itself. $400 bucks gone in an instant.
I wish each company would just have their own connectors or something to make it obvious that PSU cables aren't universal. My brain is programmed for proprietary stuff to just use some wacky connector or form factor. If it fits then I just assume it's a universal standard.
Good timing on this video. I just ran into this problem with two EVGA PSU's a 500BQ and a 650BQ. I assumed incorrectly that the pin outs would be identical they were not, luckily there was no damage that I'm aware of but just a PSA even with the same manufacture and same product line DO NOT assume the pin outs are the same.
Thank you very much, I'd heard that you shouldn't mix cables but until seeing you individually test and draw a diagram of the cables I didnt completely comprehend the reason why 👍
Wow... how lucky have I been. I've been mixing and matching power supply cables for years without an issue, thank God. I assumed the keying on the pins was designed to prevent you from plugging the wrong cables into the wrong slots and causing a problem. I've had some cables that *almost* matched, but had one or two pins differently keyed, and so of course in those cases I was not able to use the cable. Who knew that wrong cables can have right keys? What a bizarre thing for manufacturers to do. Why even key at all then?
Very helpful video. For my PC I had to so something somewhat similar for the LED strip (a very long yet inexpensive one that I got from a hardware store) to connect it to the power supply. It uses 12v, but the connector has nothing to do with a molex, so I had to properly match the 12v and ground pins from the LED strip connector to the molex. This allowed me to save quite a bit of money, since the generic LED strip is significantly longer yet cheaper than those made for PCs.
It can still be dangerous to mix and match some cables since some PSU cables have capacitors and sense lines going back to the PSU. That means some of the PSU side pins are shorted together which could lead to issues. How many PSUs have this feature I don't know but it's present on some higher end Corsair ones.
This is my kind of video. During the pandemic, last July, was given an OCZ 500W semi modular PSU but without it's Molex harness. I wanted one to run the back case fan on full for exhaust. Just the week before, my son's ANTG PSU died in his CYBERPOWER pre built from 2016. Was able to canablize all the cables (non modular) from it and used connectors from 2 of them, a multi meter, soldering pencil and CZcams (to see how to remove pins from connectors) to make up a solid Molex harness that works great. I used the multi meter to measure continuity, resistance and voltage for each wire.
Great video but the diagram was a mess xD You could've just wrote the pin number of the PSU connector to the corresponding pin in the standardized connector. This way you would get rid of all these confusing lines.
Good to know, I actually recently bought a used modular corsair psu with a few missing cables. This'll be handy once I get around testing that bad boy.
Great video. I’m looking to test some GPU cables now. I understand about matching the 12V to 12V and GND to GND etc. But what about those Sense A and Sense B pins? Wouldn’t they have to be in the same location across two different cables as there is only one option?
As long as the keys match you can also swap wires around to go to the proper pin on the power supply. I did this with needing 4 Molex cables for a server backplane and used random Corsair and Evga cables which used standard 6pin pci-e plugs and swapped around the wires to match the power supply I was using. They make tools to remove the wire from the plug though I used a staple folded in half clamped in some locking plyers and spread out about an eighth of an inch with a flat screw driver. I also sanded the inside of the two ends of the staple to make it easier to insert into the plug and worked great since it's easy to make again if the staple breaks instead of buying a new tool that also break periodically. On another note power supplys have a safety feature that checks the wiring before powering on so a good power supply will just not turn on if you are using a wire with the wrong pin out but that is not something to rely on when expensive parts could die in a cloud of blue smoke. I always recommend shorting the power up pins on the 20/24 pin plug and with a volt meter testing each unknown cable has the proper voltage or ground where it is specified to be on the plug.
I made pinouts by testing each cable, and it's easy enough to swap the pins around if needed. Question, though, when looking at the pinouts between my EVGA 850 G3 and my old Silverstone 700w SST-ST70F, the 8-pin VGA pinouts are exactly the same in where the +12v pins and ground pins are located, but the two bottom middle ground pins are swapped. Does this matter? A ground is a ground, right? Either way, that's the only difference, and everything else is the same. I swapped the pins anyway to be sure, so I was able to use a spare EVGA 8-pin VGA harness on the old Silverstone PSU.
Hey, Steve. Your video saved me a lot of headache yesterday evening. Just bought a new Seasonic PSU and was wondering why the heck the PC was not doing a beep when the PSU was in. The PSU worked fine when I tested it before, as well as the old one did when I put it in again for testing purposes. Turned out it were two old Corsair cables for SATA and Molex connections I left in. Swapped them out and: Voila, booted just fine. Luckily I got away without damaging any components. At least from what I could see until now.
Any reason you used resistor mode instead of continuity mode? Continuity mode is more convenient because is makes a sound so you don't have to look at the screen.
because some of the wires are weirdly connected. One time he got 20 Ohms between two ground pins for some reason, continuity mode would not have spotted that.
@@nottheengineer4957 20 Ohms is probably not going to be in spec of a cheapo multimeter anyway. The accuracy goes to useless really quick near the single digit range unless it's specifically designed to handle it. I've fallen into this precise trap myself. If you want to measure it without a fancy meter anyway, the right way to do it is to send a known current down the cable (1A should be good for these cables) and measure the voltage drop (or known voltage and measure the current, but you need a really low voltage), then use Ohm's law to calculate the resistance.
Thank you so much it was very difficult to find this information and just a bunch of warnings but I got a super expensive 350$ 1200W power supply 30$ because it was missing a few cables! I want to take the risk of ruining my parts but be really really careful.
could you use voltage dc on the multimeter to test while the power supply is powered ?, to skip much of the hassle of checking if pin x is equal to pin x with a known cable
Great video! Just used this to use an EVGA PCIe cable with a SeaSonic PSU. I found it interesting how the key on the PSU end matched the key on the PCIe end, and then the PSU end had the 12V pins on the same position as the PCIe end. In any case, thanks a bunch for the info!
"OL" means "over limit" or "overload" (resistance is higher than what the multimeter can measure). And the meter has a dedicated continuity mode. And, diode mode can do the same but faster (voltage drop ~0 V for a short).
I have my concerns after this... I have a SF600 Corsair PSU with very short cables, and I'm about to buy EZDIY-FAB Sleeved Cable - Cable Extension , should I be worried for compatibility issues, or is the safety concerns only for replacement cables?
How would you test Sata cables ? I have a psu with only 1 sata cable ( out if 5 which I lost them when I move) and can't seem to find replacement. It's a Greatwall rebranded psu unit. I did find sata replacement cables from other manufactures that used this same PSU , they just rebrand it but I'm not sure if I can use their cables on mine.
Hey, I'm not sure if this can affect anything within the cable, but when I wanted to make my own cables, I heard of capacitors being on some cables itself. This made me make extensions instead, since I didn't want to deal with soldering, but is this something that may be something to watch out for?
The cables he was working on both had capacitors in them in the big budge(insert "oh my" meme) on motherboard side of cable under shrink wrap. They are just there to help improve power efficiency and can be handled a little roughly to get them to work for your case.
Great video. Unfortunately tho, i discovered it a bit too late as both of my hard drives have just been fried due to, i assume, psu modular cable mixing. I bought a used Aerocool 650w semi-modular psu but it was missing sata cables so i just ordered a set of 4 sata to 6pin cable to add on my psu. Unluckily i had never heard of psu modular cables incompatibility so i just plugged it in and both my hdd and my ssd were fried.. problem is i cant even find a compatible modular sata cable for my 650w psu
How can I do this for sata powercables? I lost my sata cables for, thermaltake 775w toughpower tx. I can buy from online sellers but I dont know how to check if it's compatible.
I have a question. I have a raidmax rx-1000ae psu and I am short of the modular cables that supply the HDDs can I use 6-pin to sata power cables that I bought online to power my hdds?
Hi GN Team, can you provide an update regarding power supplies and custom cables? I have two Lian SFX PSU for my next build and did not see Liani Li listed on CableMod's compatibility list. I watched this video and the one from 6 years back, but , with custom cables become more popular can you provide any insight or information to the community on them? Thank you, Scott
And here I thought I was the only one left who actually likes "ketchup and mustard" cables better. They make it a lot easier for guys like me who make a harness to power their monitor off of their PSU Also, I've seen people on Reddit saying you can't do this because the gauge of the wires might also be different. It's true, the gauge might be different, but it doesn't matter. Unlike the PSU-side connector, the wattage is standardized. Therefore, all PSU cables are rated for the same wattage (unless they're cheap shit I guess)
Basically, I read the output specification on the power adapter that came with my monitor and saw that the output was 12v at 0.75a. Used my multimeter to confirm the voltage and then cut apart and clamped the line to confirm the amperage. Then I completely cut the wire and soldered it to an old molex extension I had. Plugged that into my test bench PSU and confirmed with the multimeter that the output was the same, then ran the cable through an open PCI slot on the case and plugged everything in. In the end I freed up an outlet and my monitor auto-turns-off with my PC. Make sure to get the polarity right, that little dash could be the end of your electronics if you don't notice it I also have my wall-powered speakers rigged up with an automotive relay to 'unplug' my speakers when my computer turns off, but I can't recommend anyone does that unless they have experience working with mains power. Instead, if you want something to 'unplug' with your computer, there are specialized power strips that will shut power off to their outlets when one outlet isn't drawing power. Like this one - www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541216912&sr=8-4&keywords=automatic+power+strip
@@trapperjohn7571 Thanks for your reply, I do appreciate the detail. My project is going to involve opening the sound bar itself and somehow hard-lining the power-on signal into the remote sensor so I can use a button instead of the remote - turning it on with the computer would be even better. Adding in volume control would also be sweet. I don't want to disable the sensor as that will remove any future ability to use the sound bar for anything else. Even though our projects aren't too similar, it does give me some ideas.
Hm, you might have a tricky project in front of you. If the remote is the only way to operate the sound bar, then it's likely that everything's done in software via whatever chip it has. It could be tricky to interface with. I"m taking a total stab in the dark here, but maybe trying to replicate the actual sensor's output with an Arduino Anyways, good luck!
It depends on the supply i just tried to add extra custom sleeves cables to an old psu and it won't work. Yea an OCZ supply is wasted but it's all my brother had so i just bought him a new evga 750w and it works fine.
How would you do this testing if you dont have any knowledge of which cables were the correct one for the power supply? I just got a big of psu cables from a relative and a evga Psu 1000 p2. I was able to separate the Corsair because they are identified. The rest seems to be an assorted of evga cables however there are different models of evga cables all lumped together. Thanks for making this video. This is the only one of its kind and I’ve found so far.
This is helpful I got custom cables for a seasonic prime ultra but just bought the asus thor built from a seasonic hopefully my cables are interchangeable
So if i upgraded from one corsair psu to another and didnt change the cabels that would be bad? if ive been using it for 2 months without appart issue should i now change them? Ive watched tech videos but not seen this mentioned before.
I learned this the hard way. Ordered a random SATA splitter for my system and ended up blowing one of my Commander Core XTs which was the first thing connected on that cable from the PSU and luckily saved my SSD from being fried. This was my first build so I didn't know that peripheral cables were pinned differently depending on manufacturer
You can always use a terminal tool or sewing needle to depress the retention tabs holding the wires in the terminals (plastic connectors), then move the wires to their correct locations in the terminals. And then if you can find a kit with the right terminals and connectors you can use a pair of Blue-Point PWC47 crimpers to make your own cables.
I actually made the best one yet, to date, last night. Scrap inkjet printer. There's a tension cable...no strip? the printer tram rides on it and it is under high tension. The left side connection is a thinnnn and very rigid...spring rigid... piece of metal. It takes a good sheet metal sheers to cut it. Cut out a .750" x .140". Then cut down the middle about a half inch so I have 2 - .070" tangs connected at one end. Then with my finest pliers, finesse and patience, started twisting them carefully until they resemble a tiny tweezers. With the ends slightly inward, the hardest part is inserting it into the plug. Then it's just push the extractor and pull the wire. The tools I had in the past didn't seem to work like they should. The needle method works but usually distorts the pin...along with the assortment of other items I have tried in the past. Using new pins is great and the correct crimper tool ensures a solid connection, but, a soldering iron is more versatile for the money. And if your customizing your PSU cables, you should know how to solder also for those other projects. But yeah! Bought a Channel Well Technology, CWT, to replace my old Seasonic PSU. (That was actually the first Brand New PSU I ever owned.) CWT uses all black, flat, ribbon style wires for the cables. Very unclean look. My old Seasonic cables are already setup for my PC components. Their plug, my wire harness. Now, all I got to do is stop telling you about it and finish the damn thing. I got online with hopes to find a pin-out diagram. I know how to trace the wires and all that. It's just that, it's late. I'm tired. And I want to have that redundancy for it being correct the first time. The saga for why my tower is...has been down for a year now is much longer than this reply/comment/jabbering. I really need its additional abilities...although my laptop is great, wonderful, awesome...okay, great and wonderful...it just-is-not-the same...Shit! I hear our rooster crowing.... UPDATE: Apparently it was an anomaly. I could never get it it to work the same way since so...went back to the needle and modified safety pin...the safety pin mod is great! all you have to do is....
Made customs cable a while ago. My motherboard has reverse polarity protection on the EPS 12V input, don't ask me how I know ... So in contrast to all of the unlucky ones in the comments it can also work itself out but don't be me. Check, double check and then run it When creating wiring diagrams be sure what orientation the plug is and if the cables are supposed to go into the plan or come out of it. This is crucial as I found the hard way. Luckily everything still works. Thx for the informative video despit the fact that I know all this.
My friend was having problems with his computer. The PC shop couldnt work it out and eventually he decided to just buy new parts and just reuse his power supply. After getting it set up he found that the computer would crash under load so he decided that the PSU must be faulty. He bought a new PSU and plugged it in but left the old cables in the machine. There was no smoke or anything but but it didnt boot. Now after swapping the proper cables into the system it still wont boot. It says something along the lines of "USB over current, system will power off after 15 seconds". He has tried disconnecting all devices except for power and HDMI but it still keeps saying the same thing. Has he fried his mother board? If so, is it likely to have damaged anything else? Its ridiculous that this is still an issue. How many people have fried equipment just because they didnt know?
I use a 2015 CM v850 and I'd like to know if the cables become worn b4 the PSU as I had to unplug my 5v cable, blew in to it and plugged it in and it game me my 5v's back.
I'm thinking about sacrificing some cable extensions to make different bundles for the 5, 12, and ground pins, so that it's easier to measure and compare the pinouts on both cables.
Steve, you can also move your range switch one more position clockwise to "continuity." It has the symbol that looks like the sound waves. It will display resistance, as the resistance setting does, with the additional benefit of sounding an audible alarm when there is continuity. Thanks again.
Does a EVGA pcie GQ wire work with a SUPERNOVA G2 power supply only asking as that’s all I got as I just got a 1080ti but need another 8pin and that’s all I could find? Need help asap
if you have two of the exact same modular psu is it safe to mix the wires? I have two of the same psu but I have two of the wires mixed it’s for the gpu
So what happens if you have to replace a cable on a power supply? I have a Corsair 850x fully modular. I need an extra 8pin pcie cable. Do I have to contact Corsair and only get a PCIe cable from them because I would be "mixing" cables if I went with a different brand (e.g., like some say "you can't just take out the old power supply and put the new replacement in and plug the old cables in so you don't have to rewire everything").
No mention of if it's easy or hard to pop the pins out of the socket and re arrange them? This is commonly done with some types of industrial cables but I haven't tried with computer cabling.
simple question i hope. i want to upgade my ocz modstream 500 to a 600 i already purchased the new ps. am i good to go just swapping out the power supply so i dont have to re run all the cabling? and in other situations is it safe to assume if your using the same line and brand the only difference is power, the cabling will be the same ?
I didn't even think of this but I went from a corsair rm 650x to a rm750x and I have been using the same cables from the 650.... I just got a 3070ti and before installing it realised. It says they are compatible on corsairs site but is it safe?
I've been using the same Corsair PSU cables from 7 years ago on all my replacements. Now today my PC wouldn't turn on at all. Replaced the PSU cables with the newest ones in the bag and now the PC powers on again. Nothing has been damage or fried, so I can assume these failed due to wear and tear?
Nice video. You can also just plug the cable only into the psu, turn the psu on (jump it) and probe the cable end on voltage setting with the multimeter ground connected to the chassis of the psu. Good way to double check your work before you plug an expensive component into it.
Should work for all but the 24 PIN Motherboard cable.. On the motherboard you have +3.3V sense and +5V Standby to worry about.. As well as possible double wires to some connectors.
Question: I have a cable written cpu on it from an asus power supply. I want to plug the extra cpu 4 pins on my motherboard with it but does not fit the cpu socket on my psu (the square triangle pattern if u will) but it fits the vga socket. can I put a cpu wire and plug it in a vga hole in the psu to a cpu or the voltages arent the same at all?
Quick question as I'm curious, At this time for a power supply around 600W Would you recommend seasonic, EVGA, or Corsair. I don't know about their track records, but reviews and Stars can be misleading
www.jonnyguru.com is a great source to look at PSU reviews.. If you still want a recommendation you can ask their forums.. Seasonic, EVGA, Corsair all make great PSU's they also have some NOT great PSU's you can not go just by brand name.
I swapped my corsair ax760 for a new hx1200, and I thought I was sold a dud psu when the pc wouldn't power on. I swapped the main 24-pin connector harness with the one that came with the hx, and lo and beheld, it worked! I got spooked and swapped everything else over. Here I am! Learning the hard way that psu cables aren't standardized 😮💨
Omg, I have always mixed power supply modular cables. Did not even think about that before because I was quite certain that this is a standard. I guess I have been lucky so far, no dead servers on desktops :D
yea i really need to do this tho im always running out of 4 pins and pcies but have a box from older PSU ive fried a few evga cables accidentally mismatching between an 850GQ and a 1000GQ the evga and seasonic look the exact same
Maybe some could help me i recently bought a new graphics card i have a rosewill 650watt modular power supply and I need an 8 pin to 8 pin cable to get power from my power supply to my card can i use any 8 lin to 8 pin pcie cable or does it have to be one that would have. Are with my power supply?
Can a (Silverstone) psu plug fit in a 8 pin PCI (gpu) socket? Transparent blue is hard to find, only BeQuiet E7 and E8 has them, Silverstone has blue on psu side (single purchasable cables).
Hye GN..im testing my pcie cable from 2 different psu brand..testing 2 pcie cable (8pin to dual 2pin+6pin)..i just want to use its 6pin to power the riser..both cable pin give me the reading (from pin 1 to pin 8)..but different value of reading.. during the test: 1 cable give reading 0.8, 1 cable give reading 1.0 Is it safe to use?
Im having a big problem with the main power conector(psu cable the goes out the psu to the power wall), at least it seem like it is the case, maybe you could enlight us about those cables, about the amount copper on the connectors, about the size of its holes, about the size of its diameter, etc... thanks
When I needed a second CPU 8-pin cable for PSU, I just used PCI-E 6-pin (NOT 8-PIN) which came with it. Only differences are the key, orientation and number of pins. Rotate 6-pin 180° and plug in, works great, and cable can sustain pretty good load. Not the most elegant solution, but the cheapest and easiest one for sure.
@@Iamtherealsunnot until heavy overclocking or generally power-hungry CPU is user. Anything lower than say 150W should be fine, anything above and I won't risk it.
Awesome Steve very helpful given the task that I have at hand this will help. But I have an additional matter I've received a EVGA Supernova 550 G2 from a friend but I did not get to the 18+10 to 24 pin connector from him I can make my own connector however I have no information if this model power supply connector has inline capacitors on it could you help me I'm not finding any solid information out there on the web would much appreciate it.
Evga is much better when it comes to exchanging psu cables. B3/B5/G2/G3/G5/G6/GA/GM/GP/GT/P2/P3/P5/P6/P+/T2 are all compatible and have the same pin outs if theyre under 1600w. They use the same cables so if you wanna swap the power supply box and no re do your cable management in the pc, youre all fine.
yeas but the standards were set before modular power supplies were a thing, leaving the manufacturers with no standard for the psu end of the wiring. thats why this is a thing
Watch our RTX 2070 "secret GPU" comparison! czcams.com/video/eZJcXHOn42Y/video.html
Super basic stuff today. We're working on a ton of testing in-house for dying RTX cards and for Z390 motherboards, so enjoy this easy video for today!
Can I fry my PSU if I use CableMod PRO ModMesh Cable Extension Kit? Or does it have to be a specific extension kit?
btosinte website (Build to Order Servers) inc is an authorized seasonic dealer, I had to buy some for an old 750 I lost the cables for. Reasonably priced, the alternative are sites that sell seasonic sleeved cables at "enthusiast" prices.
The perfect example of explaining something simple in a confusing manner ...
Your schematic skills are astounding ...
BTW, OL is OVERLOAD not 0L ...
@@g.s777 Extensions won't damage your PSU, because like their namesake they only extend the end that plugs to your component. The location of the pins is the same, they don't switch places and won't matter since you're extending the 24pin, 8pin EPS, or PCI 8/6pin. OTOH the modular cables that come out from the PSU the side that plugs into your PSU have propietary plugs and pin outs and they may switch, move around. Those need to be specific to your PSU or line of PSU, even within tha same brand the pin out can change from model to model. TL,DR: Extensions doesn't matter what PSU you use it on. Modular cable replacements, you need the specific for your brand/model.
Sometimes you can also use an ATX pin extraction tool. To swap the wires around and re order the pins at the PSU end.
Let me make a niave comment, wouldn't it be great if PSUs had a standard for the cables as well as the other standards out there (size ATX, efficiency 80+ etc). I wonder why there isn't more consistency, feels like it'd be a win for everyone? I'd love to keep my cable mod cables for my corsair power supply for 2-3 builds, perhaps I can after watching this.
I suppose it comes down to how willing the manufacturers are to work with each other. The trouble is that everyone thinks they have a better "standard" than their competition, and no one really wants to concede and adopt what someone else is using. EVGA, for example, has universal power headers on some of its PSUs (so you can plug EPS12V in anywhere, or PCIe anywhere), but this is expensive and bulky. While EVGA likes it as a marketing point, another company might not for either cost or size reasons. Then you have the inverse -- some company make extra small connectors to meet tinier form factors, which introduces different complications. Fortunately, the system-side is standardized, so we only have to worry about one end.
Just re-pin the cable.
@@kennya5165 with what tools`i live in little denmark and is not easy to finde the right tools. so i tried making my own. :S but yeah that didn't go so well. i have the Corsair RM550x and love it. but it's in a Metis tower (mini-itx) so my pci-e was waaay to long. only need a few inches :P would love to make one myself. because the cablemod site confused me. soo yeah maybe with the right tools. just can't find em.
Do same connector on both ends with same pinout; Issue solved ...
@@Lorten369 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GOIY1NE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - This is the tool I have to remove the pins from the connectors, I think it works great. This is really all you need for it unless you're doing a bunch of other modifications. Other channels (maybe even GN, I haven't seen one from them but I don't know) have plenty of custom sleeving tutorials that demonstrate how to use the tool and remove pins. If you don't know how to map the psu pinout, there are videos on that as well. You will need a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) if you need to map it. But you can usually find the voltage map on the manufacturer's website.
If you turn that dial on the meter one more click, it will just ring when you find the ones that connect.
Just make sure you didn't turn the volume off :)
@@kennya5165 There is no volume control for the continuity tester of voltmeters.
@@tikabass actually, on some there are. I recently had that issue with a guy I work with, he thought the speaker was broken. turns out the sound was just turned off. pretty sure it was a Fluke. He's an old guy, doesn't know much about electronics, just knows how to "check the millivolts" on the load cells.
@@kennya5165 I have a fairly old Fluke that does this. Its the one with the yellow button on the rotary dial.
@@kennya5165 I've never seen one. Not on a Fluke, nor on a Metrix, nor on an Agilent, nor on any other meters I've worked with in the last 30 years. Even bench-top ones. A continuity tester is not a metronome. If there is a pot on the meter, it's to zero the resistance reading,, not a volume control.
Thank you Corsair and Seasonic for using the same connectors with different wiring. It made one of my PC upgrades much more exciting and eventful.
same thing for me
Wish i knew this 4 months ago. Mixed some evga cables with a seasonic psu and i fried a 500gb mx500, 2 tb wd black , rbg controller for my corsair fans and the psu itself.
$400 bucks gone in an instant.
That's heart breaking even for me to hear
Username checks out.
I killed a 4tb hd by accident that way and it's almost too easy. Now I'm very careful. 🤪
I'd love to see a photo of the inside of the failed PSU to look at failure analysis. If it's just the capacitors then it should be easily fixable.
I wish each company would just have their own connectors or something to make it obvious that PSU cables aren't universal. My brain is programmed for proprietary stuff to just use some wacky connector or form factor. If it fits then I just assume it's a universal standard.
I swear this GN channel feels now like a College class....thank you for all the useful information you provide us!
Something tells me it would be helpful to get it standardized on the PSU side. Not only for end users, but for custom cabling manufacturers.
Good timing on this video. I just ran into this problem with two EVGA PSU's a 500BQ and a 650BQ. I assumed incorrectly that the pin outs would be identical they were not, luckily there was no damage that I'm aware of but just a PSA even with the same manufacture and same product line DO NOT assume the pin outs are the same.
I’ve waiting for a video like this for ages. Thanks GN.
Amazing, you posted this as I was just going through this exact problem with a cable tripping fault detection! PSU is fine btw. Thanks for this!
Nice video, really helpful. Make a series out of it!
Thank you very much, I'd heard that you shouldn't mix cables but until seeing you individually test and draw a diagram of the cables I didnt completely comprehend the reason why 👍
I understand why, but I don't understand how I'm supposed to know which cables to buy
Wow... how lucky have I been. I've been mixing and matching power supply cables for years without an issue, thank God. I assumed the keying on the pins was designed to prevent you from plugging the wrong cables into the wrong slots and causing a problem. I've had some cables that *almost* matched, but had one or two pins differently keyed, and so of course in those cases I was not able to use the cable. Who knew that wrong cables can have right keys? What a bizarre thing for manufacturers to do. Why even key at all then?
Same.
I've built many PC's since 2007 and never had an issue using cables between different PSU's.
Say, want to co-buy lottery numbers?
@@colors5108 lol. Yea, I've been lucky.
Very helpful video. For my PC I had to so something somewhat similar for the LED strip (a very long yet inexpensive one that I got from a hardware store) to connect it to the power supply. It uses 12v, but the connector has nothing to do with a molex, so I had to properly match the 12v and ground pins from the LED strip connector to the molex. This allowed me to save quite a bit of money, since the generic LED strip is significantly longer yet cheaper than those made for PCs.
It can still be dangerous to mix and match some cables since some PSU cables have capacitors and sense lines going back to the PSU. That means some of the PSU side pins are shorted together which could lead to issues. How many PSUs have this feature I don't know but it's present on some higher end Corsair ones.
sleeving cables tonight and this pops up in my feed, perfect timing!
This is my kind of video. During the pandemic, last July, was given an OCZ 500W semi modular PSU but without it's Molex harness. I wanted one to run the back case fan on full for exhaust. Just the week before, my son's ANTG PSU died in his CYBERPOWER pre built from 2016. Was able to canablize all the cables (non modular) from it and used connectors from 2 of them, a multi meter, soldering pencil and CZcams (to see how to remove pins from connectors) to make up a solid Molex harness that works great. I used the multi meter to measure continuity, resistance and voltage for each wire.
Great video but the diagram was a mess xD You could've just wrote the pin number of the PSU connector to the corresponding pin in the standardized connector. This way you would get rid of all these confusing lines.
I was not able to find the accompany article for this video in your website, can you put it up there?
As I wanted to use a psu connector from a older psu, this video makes me want to scream. Thanks Steve, you saved my parts.
Good to know, I actually recently bought a used modular corsair psu with a few missing cables. This'll be handy once I get around testing that bad boy.
Great video. I’m looking to test some GPU cables now. I understand about matching the 12V to 12V and GND to GND etc. But what about those Sense A and Sense B pins? Wouldn’t they have to be in the same location across two different cables as there is only one option?
Great video!
Can I use the red cable and the black one interchangeably while measuring voltage?
As long as the keys match you can also swap wires around to go to the proper pin on the power supply. I did this with needing 4 Molex cables for a server backplane and used random Corsair and Evga cables which used standard 6pin pci-e plugs and swapped around the wires to match the power supply I was using. They make tools to remove the wire from the plug though I used a staple folded in half clamped in some locking plyers and spread out about an eighth of an inch with a flat screw driver. I also sanded the inside of the two ends of the staple to make it easier to insert into the plug and worked great since it's easy to make again if the staple breaks instead of buying a new tool that also break periodically.
On another note power supplys have a safety feature that checks the wiring before powering on so a good power supply will just not turn on if you are using a wire with the wrong pin out but that is not something to rely on when expensive parts could die in a cloud of blue smoke. I always recommend shorting the power up pins on the 20/24 pin plug and with a volt meter testing each unknown cable has the proper voltage or ground where it is specified to be on the plug.
I made pinouts by testing each cable, and it's easy enough to swap the pins around if needed. Question, though, when looking at the pinouts between my EVGA 850 G3 and my old Silverstone 700w SST-ST70F, the 8-pin VGA pinouts are exactly the same in where the +12v pins and ground pins are located, but the two bottom middle ground pins are swapped. Does this matter? A ground is a ground, right? Either way, that's the only difference, and everything else is the same. I swapped the pins anyway to be sure, so I was able to use a spare EVGA 8-pin VGA harness on the old Silverstone PSU.
Hey, Steve. Your video saved me a lot of headache yesterday evening. Just bought a new Seasonic PSU and was wondering why the heck the PC was not doing a beep when the PSU was in. The PSU worked fine when I tested it before, as well as the old one did when I put it in again for testing purposes. Turned out it were two old Corsair cables for SATA and Molex connections I left in. Swapped them out and: Voila, booted just fine. Luckily I got away without damaging any components. At least from what I could see until now.
Any reason you used resistor mode instead of continuity mode? Continuity mode is more convenient because is makes a sound so you don't have to look at the screen.
I suppose you could have a funky cable. Like say a quiet* fan cable. But yeah the beep is nice.
to save headphones users, to not have several loud beeps in the video, it irks some people like nails on chalkboard
some cheap multimeters don't have a continuity mode, and one of the points was to show how to do this with a cheap multimeter.
because some of the wires are weirdly connected. One time he got 20 Ohms between two ground pins for some reason, continuity mode would not have spotted that.
@@nottheengineer4957 20 Ohms is probably not going to be in spec of a cheapo multimeter anyway. The accuracy goes to useless really quick near the single digit range unless it's specifically designed to handle it. I've fallen into this precise trap myself.
If you want to measure it without a fancy meter anyway, the right way to do it is to send a known current down the cable (1A should be good for these cables) and measure the voltage drop (or known voltage and measure the current, but you need a really low voltage), then use Ohm's law to calculate the resistance.
Once I know what is what, I’d de-pin the connectors and organise them accordingly. 5 yrs old your video mate and yet still super helpful
Hey steve, what actually is up with that XFX ghost card in the background all the time?
Thank you so much it was very difficult to find this information and just a bunch of warnings but I got a super expensive 350$ 1200W power supply 30$ because it was missing a few cables! I want to take the risk of ruining my parts but be really really careful.
could you use voltage dc on the multimeter to test while the power supply is powered ?, to skip much of the hassle of checking if pin x is equal to pin x with a known cable
Finally!! the video that i'm waiting for.
When you know you're the reason for a GN video... Haha
and im sitting here and wonder who has so many different psu cables and mixed them up :D
@@TheHalo294 see what had happened was...
I thought it was Science Studio. Didn’t he blow up a system using wrong cables to an RGB controller back a while?
@@colinberry2991 yes
Nzxt hue I think
Great video! Just used this to use an EVGA PCIe cable with a SeaSonic PSU. I found it interesting how the key on the PSU end matched the key on the PCIe end, and then the PSU end had the 12V pins on the same position as the PCIe end.
In any case, thanks a bunch for the info!
SeaSonic is the OEM of some EVGA units I think so would make sense some wires are interchangable.
"OL" means "over limit" or "overload" (resistance is higher than what the multimeter can measure). And the meter has a dedicated continuity mode. And, diode mode can do the same but faster (voltage drop ~0 V for a short).
I have my concerns after this... I have a SF600 Corsair PSU with very short cables, and I'm about to buy EZDIY-FAB Sleeved Cable - Cable Extension , should I be worried for compatibility issues, or is the safety concerns only for replacement cables?
How would you test Sata cables ? I have a psu with only 1 sata cable ( out if 5 which I lost them when I move) and can't seem to find replacement. It's a Greatwall rebranded psu unit. I did find sata replacement cables from other manufactures that used this same PSU , they just rebrand it but I'm not sure if I can use their cables on mine.
Many thanks for this! Very useful!
Does this apply to custom sleeved cables? I mean, do I have to change the pinout so that it matches the one from my PSU?
Hey, I'm not sure if this can affect anything within the cable, but when I wanted to make my own cables, I heard of capacitors being on some cables itself. This made me make extensions instead, since I didn't want to deal with soldering, but is this something that may be something to watch out for?
The cables he was working on both had capacitors in them in the big budge(insert "oh my" meme) on motherboard side of cable under shrink wrap. They are just there to help improve power efficiency and can be handled a little roughly to get them to work for your case.
Great video. Unfortunately tho, i discovered it a bit too late as both of my hard drives have just been fried due to, i assume, psu modular cable mixing. I bought a used Aerocool 650w semi-modular psu but it was missing sata cables so i just ordered a set of 4 sata to 6pin cable to add on my psu. Unluckily i had never heard of psu modular cables incompatibility so i just plugged it in and both my hdd and my ssd were fried.. problem is i cant even find a compatible modular sata cable for my 650w psu
Great content. I love my non modular power supplies
How can I do this for sata powercables? I lost my sata cables for, thermaltake 775w toughpower tx. I can buy from online sellers but I dont know how to check if it's compatible.
I have a question. I have a raidmax rx-1000ae psu and I am short of the modular cables that supply the HDDs can I use 6-pin to sata power cables that I bought online to power my hdds?
Hi GN Team, can you provide an update regarding power supplies and custom cables? I have two Lian SFX PSU for my next build and did not see Liani Li listed on CableMod's compatibility list. I watched this video and the one from 6 years back, but , with custom cables become more popular can you provide any insight or information to the community on them? Thank you, Scott
And here I thought I was the only one left who actually likes "ketchup and mustard" cables better. They make it a lot easier for guys like me who make a harness to power their monitor off of their PSU
Also, I've seen people on Reddit saying you can't do this because the gauge of the wires might also be different. It's true, the gauge might be different, but it doesn't matter. Unlike the PSU-side connector, the wattage is standardized. Therefore, all PSU cables are rated for the same wattage (unless they're cheap shit I guess)
I'd be interested to see how you do this. I'm looking to make a on/off switch for my Bose sound bar so I don't have to keep using the remote control.
Basically, I read the output specification on the power adapter that came with my monitor and saw that the output was 12v at 0.75a. Used my multimeter to confirm the voltage and then cut apart and clamped the line to confirm the amperage. Then I completely cut the wire and soldered it to an old molex extension I had. Plugged that into my test bench PSU and confirmed with the multimeter that the output was the same, then ran the cable through an open PCI slot on the case and plugged everything in. In the end I freed up an outlet and my monitor auto-turns-off with my PC. Make sure to get the polarity right, that little dash could be the end of your electronics if you don't notice it
I also have my wall-powered speakers rigged up with an automotive relay to 'unplug' my speakers when my computer turns off, but I can't recommend anyone does that unless they have experience working with mains power. Instead, if you want something to 'unplug' with your computer, there are specialized power strips that will shut power off to their outlets when one outlet isn't drawing power. Like this one - www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541216912&sr=8-4&keywords=automatic+power+strip
@@trapperjohn7571 Thanks for your reply, I do appreciate the detail. My project is going to involve opening the sound bar itself and somehow hard-lining the power-on signal into the remote sensor so I can use a button instead of the remote - turning it on with the computer would be even better. Adding in volume control would also be sweet. I don't want to disable the sensor as that will remove any future ability to use the sound bar for anything else. Even though our projects aren't too similar, it does give me some ideas.
Hm, you might have a tricky project in front of you. If the remote is the only way to operate the sound bar, then it's likely that everything's done in software via whatever chip it has. It could be tricky to interface with. I"m taking a total stab in the dark here, but maybe trying to replicate the actual sensor's output with an Arduino
Anyways, good luck!
It depends on the supply i just tried to add extra custom sleeves cables to an old psu and it won't work. Yea an OCZ supply is wasted but it's all my brother had so i just bought him a new evga 750w and it works fine.
Thanks you guys. I am now confident enough to cut the little clip off my EVGA VGA mod cable and force it upside down into my XFX psu.
OL (Oh-El) For "Overload." Means "infinite resistance," or, in other words open circuit. Great video. Thanks!
How would you do this testing if you dont have any knowledge of which cables were the correct one for the power supply? I just got a big of psu cables from a relative and a evga Psu 1000 p2. I was able to separate the Corsair because they are identified. The rest seems to be an assorted of evga cables however there are different models of evga cables all lumped together. Thanks for making this video. This is the only one of its kind and I’ve found so far.
Is there a reason why you used the resistance mode and not the "buzzer" mode on your multimeter?
cheers.
Under appreciated super informative video. Huge fan
This is helpful I got custom cables for a seasonic prime ultra but just bought the asus thor built from a seasonic hopefully my cables are interchangeable
So if i upgraded from one corsair psu to another and didnt change the cabels that would be bad? if ive been using it for 2 months without appart issue should i now change them? Ive watched tech videos but not seen this mentioned before.
I learned this the hard way. Ordered a random SATA splitter for my system and ended up blowing one of my Commander Core XTs which was the first thing connected on that cable from the PSU and luckily saved my SSD from being fried. This was my first build so I didn't know that peripheral cables were pinned differently depending on manufacturer
You can always use a terminal tool or sewing needle to depress the retention tabs holding the wires in the terminals (plastic connectors), then move the wires to their correct locations in the terminals. And then if you can find a kit with the right terminals and connectors you can use a pair of Blue-Point PWC47 crimpers to make your own cables.
I actually made the best one yet, to date, last night.
Scrap inkjet printer. There's a tension cable...no strip? the printer tram rides on it and it is under high tension. The left side connection is a thinnnn and very rigid...spring rigid... piece of metal.
It takes a good sheet metal sheers to cut it.
Cut out a .750" x .140". Then cut down the middle about a half inch so I have 2 - .070" tangs connected at one end. Then with my finest pliers, finesse and patience, started twisting them carefully until they resemble a tiny tweezers. With the ends slightly inward, the hardest part is inserting it into the plug. Then it's just push the extractor and pull the wire.
The tools I had in the past didn't seem to work like they should.
The needle method works but usually distorts the pin...along with the assortment of other items I have tried in the past.
Using new pins is great and the correct crimper tool ensures a solid connection, but, a soldering iron is more versatile for the money. And if your customizing your PSU cables, you should know how to solder also for those other projects.
But yeah!
Bought a Channel Well Technology, CWT, to replace my old Seasonic PSU. (That was actually the first Brand New PSU I ever owned.) CWT uses all black, flat, ribbon style wires for the cables. Very unclean look. My old Seasonic cables are already setup for my PC components.
Their plug, my wire harness.
Now, all I got to do is stop telling you about it and finish the damn thing.
I got online with hopes to find a pin-out diagram. I know how to trace the wires and all that. It's just that, it's late. I'm tired. And I want to have that redundancy for it being correct the first time.
The saga for why my tower is...has been down for a year now is much longer than this reply/comment/jabbering.
I really need its additional abilities...although my laptop is great, wonderful, awesome...okay, great and wonderful...it just-is-not-the same...Shit! I hear our rooster crowing....
UPDATE:
Apparently it was an anomaly. I could never get it it to work the same way since so...went back to the needle and modified safety pin...the safety pin mod is great! all you have to do is....
Not your best video, but you are still my favorite
I have two psus a evga g3 650 and a g2 750, can I mix the cables?
I need a cable set for a modular xfx pro 850w power supply. Where can i find one and/or with which other brand their cables are compatible with? Thx
Made customs cable a while ago. My motherboard has reverse polarity protection on the EPS 12V input, don't ask me how I know ...
So in contrast to all of the unlucky ones in the comments it can also work itself out but don't be me. Check, double check and then run it
When creating wiring diagrams be sure what orientation the plug is and if the cables are supposed to go into the plan or come out of it. This is crucial as I found the hard way. Luckily everything still works.
Thx for the informative video despit the fact that I know all this.
My friend was having problems with his computer. The PC shop couldnt work it out and eventually he decided to just buy new parts and just reuse his power supply. After getting it set up he found that the computer would crash under load so he decided that the PSU must be faulty. He bought a new PSU and plugged it in but left the old cables in the machine. There was no smoke or anything but but it didnt boot. Now after swapping the proper cables into the system it still wont boot. It says something along the lines of "USB over current, system will power off after 15 seconds". He has tried disconnecting all devices except for power and HDMI but it still keeps saying the same thing. Has he fried his mother board? If so, is it likely to have damaged anything else? Its ridiculous that this is still an issue. How many people have fried equipment just because they didnt know?
I use a 2015 CM v850 and I'd like to know if the cables become worn b4 the PSU as I had to unplug my 5v cable, blew in to it and plugged it in and it game me my 5v's back.
I'm thinking about sacrificing some cable extensions to make different bundles for the 5, 12, and ground pins, so that it's easier to measure and compare the pinouts on both cables.
I just soldered PCIe cable for seasonic sacrificing one of its EPS cable and Corsairs PCIe cable.
I was just talking about this the other day lol, shared!
Steve, you can also move your range switch one more position clockwise to "continuity." It has the symbol that looks like the sound waves. It will display resistance, as the resistance setting does, with the additional benefit of sounding an audible alarm when there is continuity. Thanks again.
Does it matter if the 8 pin slots are separated and no longer touching. If the plastic gets damaged by a bent pin is it still safe to used if it works
Does a EVGA pcie GQ wire work with a SUPERNOVA G2 power supply only asking as that’s all I got as I just got a 1080ti but need another 8pin and that’s all I could find? Need help asap
if you have two of the exact same modular psu is it safe to mix the wires? I have two of the same psu but I have two of the wires mixed it’s for the gpu
So what happens if you have to replace a cable on a power supply? I have a Corsair 850x fully modular. I need an extra 8pin pcie cable. Do I have to contact Corsair and only get a PCIe cable from them because I would be "mixing" cables if I went with a different brand (e.g., like some say "you can't just take out the old power supply and put the new replacement in and plug the old cables in so you don't have to rewire everything").
No mention of if it's easy or hard to pop the pins out of the socket and re arrange them?
This is commonly done with some types of industrial cables but I haven't tried with computer cabling.
Can i use corsair cx750m 3 pin power cord with xpg core reactor 750 watt psu?
simple question i hope. i want to upgade my ocz modstream 500 to a 600 i already purchased the new ps. am i good to go just swapping out the power supply so i dont have to re run all the cabling? and in other situations is it safe to assume if your using the same line and brand the only difference is power, the cabling will be the same ?
See my comment above. I found the Modstream has a different 8 Pin PCIE configuration at the PSU than say, EVGA PSUs do.
I didn't even think of this but I went from a corsair rm 650x to a rm750x and I have been using the same cables from the 650.... I just got a 3070ti and before installing it realised. It says they are compatible on corsairs site but is it safe?
Steve PLS help me,do you think i can use a cablemod kit made for a nzxt c650 on a sharkoon silente storm
I've been using the same Corsair PSU cables from 7 years ago on all my replacements. Now today my PC wouldn't turn on at all. Replaced the PSU cables with the newest ones in the bag and now the PC powers on again. Nothing has been damage or fried, so I can assume these failed due to wear and tear?
Nice video. You can also just plug the cable only into the psu, turn the psu on (jump it) and probe the cable end on voltage setting with the multimeter ground connected to the chassis of the psu. Good way to double check your work before you plug an expensive component into it.
Should work for all but the 24 PIN Motherboard cable.. On the motherboard you have +3.3V sense and +5V Standby to worry about.. As well as possible double wires to some connectors.
@@tisjester I don't think it will work for SATA either, but neither does the method in this video :/ surely there must be a way to safely test it...
Question: I have a cable written cpu on it from an asus power supply. I want to plug the extra cpu 4 pins on my motherboard with it but does not fit the cpu socket on my psu (the square triangle pattern if u will) but it fits the vga socket. can I put a cpu wire and plug it in a vga hole in the psu to a cpu or the voltages arent the same at all?
Can u use a extension cable so u wont have to worry about mixing and matching?
Quick question as I'm curious,
At this time for a power supply around 600W
Would you recommend seasonic, EVGA, or Corsair.
I don't know about their track records, but reviews and Stars can be misleading
www.jonnyguru.com is a great source to look at PSU reviews.. If you still want a recommendation you can ask their forums..
Seasonic, EVGA, Corsair all make great PSU's they also have some NOT great PSU's you can not go just by brand name.
I wonder if GN would ever review the Silverstone Mammoth case?
Oh gawd Steve I needed this
I swapped my corsair ax760 for a new hx1200, and I thought I was sold a dud psu when the pc wouldn't power on. I swapped the main 24-pin connector harness with the one that came with the hx, and lo and beheld, it worked!
I got spooked and swapped everything else over. Here I am! Learning the hard way that psu cables aren't standardized 😮💨
Omg, I have always mixed power supply modular cables. Did not even think about that before because I was quite certain that this is a standard. I guess I have been lucky so far, no dead servers on desktops :D
yea i really need to do this tho
im always running out of 4 pins and pcies but have a box from older PSU
ive fried a few evga cables accidentally mismatching between an 850GQ and a 1000GQ
the evga and seasonic look the exact same
Maybe some could help me i recently bought a new graphics card i have a rosewill 650watt modular power supply and I need an 8 pin to 8 pin cable to get power from my power supply to my card can i use any 8 lin to 8 pin pcie cable or does it have to be one that would have. Are with my power supply?
Can a (Silverstone) psu plug fit in a 8 pin PCI (gpu) socket? Transparent blue is hard to find, only BeQuiet E7 and E8 has them, Silverstone has blue on psu side (single purchasable cables).
Can u mix the main power cable that connects to the wall
Hye GN..im testing my pcie cable from 2 different psu brand..testing 2 pcie cable (8pin to dual 2pin+6pin)..i just want to use its 6pin to power the riser..both cable pin give me the reading (from pin 1 to pin 8)..but different value of reading..
during the test:
1 cable give reading 0.8,
1 cable give reading 1.0
Is it safe to use?
Can you use a Thermaltake II PSU tester?
What about buying customs sleeved PSU cables are they ok with and psu? Seems like reviews on CZcams don't talk about this!
The next JonnyGuru for sure :D
Im having a big problem with the main power conector(psu cable the goes out the psu to the power wall), at least it seem like it is the case, maybe you could enlight us about those cables, about the amount copper on the connectors, about the size of its holes, about the size of its diameter, etc... thanks
can i take a PCIE cable from my RM750 and put it in my RM850x v2??
When I needed a second CPU 8-pin cable for PSU, I just used PCI-E 6-pin (NOT 8-PIN) which came with it. Only differences are the key, orientation and number of pins. Rotate 6-pin 180° and plug in, works great, and cable can sustain pretty good load. Not the most elegant solution, but the cheapest and easiest one for sure.
Not dangerous?
@@Iamtherealsunnot until heavy overclocking or generally power-hungry CPU is user. Anything lower than say 150W should be fine, anything above and I won't risk it.
@@penguin86bitals thanks good to know my friend!
Awesome Steve very helpful given the task that I have at hand this will help. But I have an additional matter I've received a EVGA Supernova 550 G2 from a friend but I did not get to the 18+10 to 24 pin connector from him I can make my own connector however I have no information if this model power supply connector has inline capacitors on it could you help me I'm not finding any solid information out there on the web would much appreciate it.
Evga is much better when it comes to exchanging psu cables. B3/B5/G2/G3/G5/G6/GA/GM/GP/GT/P2/P3/P5/P6/P+/T2 are all compatible and have the same pin outs if theyre under 1600w. They use the same cables so if you wanna swap the power supply box and no re do your cable management in the pc, youre all fine.
I dont have dmm right now any other way to check the pins ?
I know the are standards organisations for sata, pci, usb, is there one for power supplies?
yeas but the standards were set before modular power supplies were a thing, leaving the manufacturers with no standard for the psu end of the wiring. thats why this is a thing
Can some one tell me where should I buy modular cable for cooler master v1000
... I lost the cable
Does anyone know where I can get cables for a Antec High Current Pro 750W?