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From Clay to Concrete! Latex Mold Making 2021
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- čas přidán 30. 10. 2021
- Overall view of how I make a latex mold over a hard clay surface.
My go-to latex and latex thickener powder...
holdenslatex.com/hx-80-latex/
holdenslatex.com/hx-ceco-powder/
nice to see a guy make his own concrete art, so many just copy
Awesome ! Thanks for sharing
These are amazing! Great work! Do you sell these or have an online shop?
Thanks for the compliments! My back is worn out and I can't pour concrete anymore, so I'm selling what molds I have. I haven't sold my Bamboohead Tiki molds... yet. I do have one available. You can contact me for more info. tonebob@yahoo.com
I think you're meant to spray the oil inside the mold so the concrete can release easier.. not the outside
Normally yes, the release oil mixture is supposed to be on the inside of the mold, however the latex tiki mold gets so tight coming off that I found spraying the oil mixture on the latex outside surface also helps the latex slide past itself as I pull the mold off. In fact, it's the ONLY way I can get the mold off. Thankfully, it's my only mold that has that problem!
Hi. i have 2 questions. thanks for your help.
as you know, When we want to make a silicone mold, we usually use silicone spray on the original model so that the silicone does not stick to the original model and can be easily removed.
1- For latex, we use PVA on all part of original model To better separate the original model from the mold?
2- and PVA Is actually a combination of alcohol and wax?
thank alot.
For latex, when I want the surface to be really nice, I use molders wax. I rub a good coat on, then buff it off. I'll do that twice. Then I start brushing on the latex layers. Or I PVA the surface. You just need a good thin coat. I sometimes spray the PVA using a garden hand sprayer, or I sometimes brush the PVA on. it depends on the surface I've designed. PVA to me is like a water-based lacquer. I don't believe it has any wax. I just leaves a thin plastic-like film.
More PVA info I use www.amazon.com/Partall-Film-10-Polyvinyl-Alcohol/dp/B078XH3NYR/ref=sr_1_1?crid=D83YXX4IFTSM&keywords=PVA+mold&qid=1704485195&sprefix=pva+mold%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-1 www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-0-4Gallon-Sprayer-Pressure-Sprayers/dp/B07QTHF3QK/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2PDHTVIF4ZV2A&keywords=garden%2Bhand%2Bsprayer&qid=1704485092&sprefix=garden%2Bhand%2Bspraye%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-6&th=1
@@TonyNewmanStudio Hi. thanks alot for your comprehensive guide.. Good luck :)
Anytime... I'm retired now so I have a lot more time on my hands to help out!
This is whay I've bee trying to figure out how to so. I make things from different types of clay all the time . But want to make it into concrete
Hello Tiffany, I happen to work at an automotive car design studio for my day job, so I use the same clay… it’s called Marsclay medium, from Germany. It’s kinda expensive… I suggest a similar clay called Monster Clay. You can find it on Amazon. We keep our clay in ovens so it’s very warm and easy to pack on an armature. At home I made a small box oven for small amounts. I can also use a heat gun to warm the clay.
I have a Facebook group called Clay to Concrete that you might want to join!
What brand of latex are you using?
I use HX-80 holdenslatex.com/
Is the clay water based or oil based
Oh sorry I'm so late responding to your note... anyway it's the same clay used in car design studios. I believe its oil based. It's VERY expensive. This clay never dries out... I work at a car design studio in California. After we pack clay the armature, we mill the entire car out. We never reuse the milled clay, so I collect the cleanest clay and use that for all my projects. I have collected ALOT of clay! The nearest equivalent clay is Chavant or Monster Clay. Good luck! clay.industrial-products.com/en/produkte/marsclay/marsclay-medium/ www.amazon.com/Monster-Clay-Premium-Grade-Modeling/dp/B0722NKKYF/ref=sr_1_2?crid=13UDFXMK2OIXT&keywords=monster+clay&qid=1672605462&sprefix=monster+clay%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-2 www.amazon.com/Chavant-NSP-MEDIUM-Professional-Sculpting/dp/B00YNZ7IQC/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.93bf312b-c5e0-435e-b7c1-6c5db8f43f0c%3Aamzn1.sym.93bf312b-c5e0-435e-b7c1-6c5db8f43f0c&cv_ct_cx=chavant+clay&keywords=chavant+clay&pd_rd_i=B00YNZ7IQC&pd_rd_r=e2fb718c-2fbd-4105-bd8a-1509a3a04df8&pd_rd_w=02oGK&pd_rd_wg=jCFnP&pf_rd_p=93bf312b-c5e0-435e-b7c1-6c5db8f43f0c&pf_rd_r=ZPNBW3SC8GSMK9TX0D50&qid=1672605580&sprefix=chavant%2Caps%2C141&sr=1-2-a43b4223-fbe9-48b0-af69-6d70cf84978b-spons&psc=1
Oh brother! I noticed I did respond to your 1st note... I'm gettin' old...
After early latex coats brushed deep into details , could build up kayers be sprayed on?
I don't see why not... I have never sprayed latex before... most likely the gun will probably need a large spray tip. Also, you'll probably need to thin the latex down since it's so thick. I've always used a 1" or 2" chip brush. Afte using the brush a bit, you can add more latex. However, the thicker the latex the longer the layer of latex takes to dry. The good news is no matter how thick, the latex will eventually dry. to get the latex to dry a little quicker , I use a fan to move the air over the latex. Especially if the mold is deep. I try NOT to use the heat gun since the latex could prerelease and form an air pocket/bubble.