This how I setup a Audison APF8.9bit. The in's & outs of doing the input configuration.
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Here are the steps on how I setup a Audison APF8.9bit. I explain what each input from different sources. I also take through bridging and channel allocation.
Comment down below if you have any question.
This is the tells of my journey of modifying my 2017 F150. Come a long with me. Please Subscribe & comment on any of these..
Appreciate the video. Haven't installed an bit an AP8.9 in 2 years, and am doing one today. Great refresher!
Cool
I just bought the Apf8.9bit a lil confusing but u learned as u go, I’m using mines with the maestro ar since I got a factory premium amp . Thank you for the video really helpful
Awesome. I’m glad I could help.
Hey Miguel, why do you need the Maestro ar? What difference does it make? Just asking because I am thinking of buying this amp as well and using it with a factory premium amplifier.
@@performingspecs7841 Hey the only reason I got the maestro Ar is because since my car Stereo is premium which means the output sound is only digital so if you got a premium amp you definitely need something like the Ar because it’s able to work with any Amplifier trust me I tried installing multiple amps without the Ar and it would not work and the Ar gave me the option to completely remove the Toyota Premium Amp and replaced it with a more powerful amp.
@@2008guelo thanks for the info, hopefully I won’t need it, I ordered a pnp wiring harness to add a sub to my set up and everything worked great except it was hard to blend the subwoofer with my factory system. The sub was over powering the rest of the system so now I am thinking of bypassing the factory amp and add more power to hopefully blend everything in. Thanks again.
@@performingspecs7841 yes if u get a DSP or an more powerful amp that works with your premium system u might not need it good luck 👍🏽
Hey brother. Thanks for this. I'm about to install an Audison Prima F8.9 to a BMW M4. I have 7 speakers from the factory with a factory 8 channel S676 Hi-Fi Amp. There are 2 tweeters in the front door cards, which are linked to the mids in the doors. A sub under each front seat and two coaxial speakers for the mids in the rear with 1 centre mounted mid on the dashboard. I will also be running an Audison Active Sub in the boot. What would you recommend setup wise? Your help would be appreciated. I was looking at the manual, and physical preset 7 looked the most logical. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Stay blessed. ❤
If I was doing it. I would not use the center channel. The wiring would be as follows:
1: left front mid & tweeter
2: right front mid & tweeter
3&4: bridge left under seat woofer
5&6: bridge right under seat woofer
7: left rear
8: right rear
did you try to install AP F8.9 with Bit Drive software ? or only with AP bit software ? i ask because i bought also AP F8.9 and was nice if this BIT drive will work , as offer more tunning options
The APF software is only for that amp and unfortunately the new Bit Drive software was designed after that amp was developed. So it looks like they may be using Bit Drive software moving forward.
Great videos, I’m thinking of buying the apf8.9 , I’d like to run active two way with a center channel. My question is, if the door woofers are 2 ohm and I have a 2 ohm center channel, can I still run the 4 ohm tweeters I have or do I need other tweeters? This amp seems like the perfect one for my set up if that works.
4 ohm tweeters will work in the setup that you are describing if you don’t bridge any of the channels.
Thanks for the questions. Please subscribe to the channel if you have done so already.
Planning to get APF8.9 for my Toyota hybrid suv. Front and rear active with component JL VR 650 Csi. And Sub with Another Pioneer Mono Amp with Jl audio w6 v2 10. Do you think, the Audison will sound good in this setup. Regards.
It should sound pretty good. I would do the front active & the rear passive.
1&2 front tweeters
3&4 front left mid bass
5&6 front right mid bass
7&8 rear speakers.
Thank you.
Sorry this is so long, it’s hard to find info and feedback from someone who’s actually used the gear. Going with one of these in my 2017 F150 Limited with the factory Sony setup, would you use the Idatalink AR integration to pull signal from the factory amp, or use a pac amppro and send optical from that into the 8.9bit ? Seems like the AR might be a little easier and not require pulling the factory head unit, but I see a lot of positive feedback on the pac unit. Any thoughts ? I’ll also be adding the sr500.1 to run either 2 JL 8w3 or 2 kicker q class square 8s, any thoughts on that part of the setup as well?
I would use a Pac Pro unit. The AR for the Audison interfaces isn't that friendly. I would use the analogy(RCA). The Audison APF amp doesn't offer a adjustable optical input, so it may sound like the amp doesn't have any power. The SR1.500 is a really nice amp and you won't go wrong with it. I would do a Audison bass knob or the DRC to allow the adjustment to the subwoofers.
@@lancesautovlog dude thank you for taking the time to reply. I’m having last min thoughts of going with a JL Vxi setup instead, what would you go with if given both options ?
@@RawLobst3r I personally like the Audison direction. The APF offers more power at 20 more watts per channel.
@@lancesautovlog Thanks again! Audison it is. Now I just have to pick some dang subs and components. Wild card sub option from B2 Audio thrown into the mix, and looking like flax evo or Mille pro for the components!
@@lancesautovlog Hey boss wild card question if you have the time, I posted in the forums but haven't got a reply. Possible to run a DM-810 into 2 LC5.1300s, Running Amp 1 for front Tweets/Rears & 1 Sub, Amp 2 Bridged to 3 Channel for Left/Right Mid bass & 1 more sub. My main concern is the sub output sections, can I run them to their own subs in the same enclosure and have 2 sub outs on the DSP, or do I split a single sub out on the DSP to both amps? Would this be doable to 2 subs in the same enclosure if they get the same signal and gains are matched? I really like the idea and flexibility of how running 2x5 channels sounds in my head, getting more sub power than a 5 channel + 4 channel, just want to make sure the sub set up will work before I buy everything today.
Great video. I’m new to this, does the amp cut the sound to the speakers when analysing inputs and HU eq?
The Audison DSP do show what the input eq from the OEM source is doing. The key word would input from your source. The outputs can only be seen from a external RTA.
@@lancesautovlog thank you. The cars loudspeakers don’t work whilst the ap4.9 is analysing input level test tracks and eq via the CD or USB. Is that right?
Great video, I think I caught most of it. I am also thinking of purchasing this amp to bypass my factory amp in my BMW . I also want to add a second amp for the aftermarket JL 10 W7 I am adding. The only issue I have is that the Harmon Kardon system in my SAV requires 9 channels instead of 8. Not sure if I should leave the rear hatch mid and tweeters off or bridge the two mid bass upfront on one channel. Also my other question is if this amp puts out enough power to drive your system fully? I am considering this Addison or one of the Audiocontrol amps with DSP. Thanks for any advice you can share.
What year and model of BMW?
@@lancesautovlog it is a 2021 X5M competition with the Harmon Kardon audio system.
Do you know if the system analogy or digital?
@@lancesautovlog I believe it is digital where a fiber optic cable runs to a module then wires to the amplifier then wires come out of the amplifier. I saw where Audison had a replacement kit for the factory amp but I believe that was just for the BMW hifi system which is the lower level. I’m still researching that though.
So if it optical then your going to use Audison Bit DMI or a Helix piece for the conversion. The Audison APF8.9 amp is a 8 channels with a optional mono output, so it is actually a 9 channels.
What is the name of the software?
This software will located on there website:
audison.com/product/ap-f8-9-bit/
Hey man. I just picked up a AP F8.9 amp i wll using factory head unit from my audi s4 non B&O system(high level input). My question to you is does the amp power on by the audio from the head unit at first start up? because you show it as to be selected in the setup to use that option.
It should power up in most applications, but there will be times that a remote turn on trigger is needed.
@lancesautovlog so how do you trigger it if the trigger is needed? Thx for answering my questions much appreciated
There is a remote in and out one of the hardness. I believe it’s a 4 pin plug.
I’ve even used the to wake it up and then the signal sense starts to working afterwards.
So I just connect the remote IN to the positive terminal right?
@@clementparker5015 Yes you can try that. It won't hurt anything.
Just bought one today. I have hertz mpk 163.3 3 way components in the front ,hertz mpx 1653 6.5 in the rear and 2 x 10" active sub inclosure (250 cba). Will this Amp work for my setup ? Thanks in advance for your help.
It would work if your going to add a subwoofer amp as well.
@@lancesautovlog can I split the 9th channel to both subs?
The 9th channel would go to a additional subwoofer amp.
Each sub has a built-in Amp capable of 250 rms 500 peak. I sent the link. They are powered and in separate sealed boxes. Would having two sealed subs in my truck present tuning issues? Will one cancel the other out creating less db's? I spoke to an installer who said I was better off going with just 1 sub unless they shared a ported box. I have no idea. Please help.
@@josephhervieux7374 there shouldn’t be any issues using to powered subs. There are a couple of things that need to be done. 1: make sure the input gains are the same on both units. 2: tuning would be the same as tuning 1 unit.
There will only be cancellations if the woofers are facing each other.
Planing to buy 8.9 but confused as my stock HU is not that good.Will I be able to connect 8.9 directly to mobile phone so as to listen to hi-res Apple Music. Can 8.9 reproduce same hi-fi lossless music
The 8.9 does have a optical input so you can get a Audison BCon unit and does bluetooth. You will need a DRC of some kind.
Can there be a better substitute for same price ?
@@vk9423 the BCon is pretty nice. I believe Helix has a piece as well.
@@lancesautovlog Sry …I meant in place of Forza Bit 8.9
Thank you for the video. Could you explain somehow the more detailed manually setup on the audison dsp `? I have the 5.9bit prima with 2-way doors and coax back + sub. The crossover seems pretty confusing. cause i just cant make the car play loud. Volume starts distorting pretty early. It might be phase issue or polarity. Yet still i have battled with the settings now over 2 weeks and no result. + additional qestion. If the dsp preset have been selected from the front panel does it efffect somehow ? Because when i exit the software something changes in the sound stage. Bass drops and the stereo image moves to the left. And when i plug pc back it reverts back to my settings. And again if i lock out it goes back. And yes i do press the sync - write to device and finalize device before i exit.
I will try to do a video on how to setup the prima amp in more details. If you are using a AP5.9bit you could run into issues with volume due the rated power output. That amp is generally used with their Prima speaker line. The Prima line is very efficient and will make that amp seem will it has more power.
The rotary dial on the amp is for quick setup and a preset. If you use the preset the software can not be used. That's why the software acts funny.
@@lancesautovlog thank you so much for the answer. You were the only place or person who provided me an answer.
I do use prima series speakers apk 165 2ohm 2-way front (in dsp seting is for coaxial) back speakers are oem and sub is prima ap 8"
You rock !
Have you had time to think the manual setup ? I still have issues to perfect the xovers. Prima 165 2ohm 2 way active front. And prima 10 as sub with 5.9bit
I also purchased audison 6.5 coax to backdoors but i am driving them right from main unit.
De-eq is done to 0dbm and sub signal is taken from front channels.
did you get rid of the pink noise ?
Pink noise? I’m not sure what your question is?
I'm using the USB cable that comes with C8.14 amp and bit software and Windows no connection Does the only works on USB-A 2.0 connection ?
How old is your computer?
@@lancesautovlog Almost a year Windows 11. So I found the remote wires were connected wrong to the amp. So I returned to the audio shop today, and the shop fixed the amp remote wire. So now I see the Amp showing on bit software, but I have a USB driver issue, so at the bottom, it stops at 5%
@@SwiftSystems1 does the usb work on other things?
@@lancesautovlog Yes, it also has usb-c connections
I would remove the software from the computer. Then go to website and download the newest software. Then try to connect to it again. I would also confirm the firmware is up to date.
Does this Audison amp take factory amp inputs or do I need a LOC ?
The Audison amp does have high level input. So you can take the speaker wires that come out of the OEM radio and go directly into the amp. No LOC required. Great question. Please subscribe to the channel if you have already done so.
Thanks.
@@lancesautovlog So looking at the specs, is it possible to run front components active(tweeters like on channel 1&2, mids 3&4) maybe 5&6 rear doors coaxial and a solo 250 watt sub on 7&8 bridged. I'm pretty much looking for 7 channel amp .Thanks again for any help.
Sorry for the delayed reply.
I have done that in the past. I would go with a separate sub amp if you really like a lot of bass..
Is this better then Helix?
They are very similar.
It died right after one year and 8 months. Just don't buy this crap. I spent a lot of money on it and I had higher expectations. I did some research on the interned and others have the same issue.
Hopefully the next brand you get last longer.
Hey, anyway to get the software?
Here’s a link:
www.audison.eu/products/ap-f8-9-bit/
7:07 lmao. No one wants distortion.
Yep