Thanks so much, did this earlier on my Civic, worked perfectly. I did the manual method of putting the electronic parking brake in maintenance mode and it worked fine, no warning lights came up. I did have to calibrate it at the end of the job by pumping the brake pedal until it got hard and engaging/re-engaging the parking brake twice. No more grinding noise coming from the rear brakes!
Thank you for this video! This video also applies to changing out wheel studs as well! Once you get that rotor off it’s just getting a hammer and hitting out those wheel studs and installing new ones. Thank you for an awesome detailed video!
Nice video. Perfect explanation. For those who want to do this job... first watch his other video “ how to set Honda parking brake into service mode “ before starting. Thank you very much For sharing your knowledge
Oh, man, you are the only one who correctly changed Civic brake pads on the whole CZcams. All other people made the same mistake when it came to retracting e park. Many people reported that the brake error lights went off after brake pad change. And it's so nice of you on showing us the manual about how to manually put e brake to service mode from Honda Independent Repair Website which is not available for free. Thank you, sir!
What video were you watching? This guy not only did not show how to put calipre in service mode, he didnt even show brake pad removal. Further, they make a kit to turn the piston and compress. Are you telling me the kit is made to destroy ones calibre parking brake system?
@@kevindecker9444 LMAO- He also said make sure you lubricate the contact points etc where the pads will sit and then he went and put the new pads on and didn't do it.
Thanks for the great video Jay. For people who have a hard time removing the rotor, here's a trick, there're two threaded holes on the rotor (there should be, if you have the OEM rotor), they're fully threaded through-holes, (you can see those two smaller holes at around 3:51, roughly nine o'clock and three o'clock on the rotor). So if you put two bolts into them, keep driving them in, they will eventually press against the bearing hub and "pop" the rotor off of the bearing hub as you turn the bolt. The bolt thread size I used is M8 x 1.25 that are roughly half an inch long, you can use longer but half an inch is long enough, the important part is the thread size, otherwise it won't go in. I live in Ontario so my rotor was rust-welded shut to the bearing hub, after soaking penetrating oil, hammering the rotor, it just won't come off. The bolts worked very well for me, so if you can't remove the rotor, try the bolts.
Hey this is extremely helpful. What type of a driver are you using is it a 1/2” I am going to attempt to change my rotors and brake pads this weekend on my 2016 Honda and really grateful for you and this detailed video.
very good and perfessional video. I just want to say I did the brakes on my girlfriends 2018 Civic Coupe. I just replace the caliper brackets with new brackets. Wish I watched this video before I changed out the brakes.
@@jaythemechanic4950 did you know that on the rear calipers on most Hondas your supposed to turn the rear caliper piston back as opposed to pushing it back?
@@Djevan41598 Yes. On most Hondas and other cars your supposed to turn the caliper piston. On this car... you can turn or push the piston back, after you set it into maintenance mode
@@jaythemechanic4950 I recently worked on a Honda Element I replaced the starter motor and it was a pain in the rear because it’s like right underneath the exhaust manifold.
Very nice video sir but just to let other people know, this is a garage method to put the car into service mode. I have been working on cars for 10 years at home and I don’t even have that computer.
Yes! And if any one is interested these 2 CZcamsrs have nice videos on how to do it without a Service Computer. "Daniel Gibson" and "Jonny DIY" ( 2017 Honda Civic Rear Brake Pad Replacement with Electronic Parking Brake Reset Procedure) (2016+ Honda. How To Manually Release / Retract Electric Parking Brake & Recalibrate. Rear Brake Job)
Jay..when using the scanner to put rear brakes in service mode, do u have to leave ignition on throughout the service procedure or can u shut off the car until ur finished with repairs?
Do I have to remove the rotors and use the c clamp if I only want to change the brake pads? Also after how many miles did you have to change your pads?
nice video bro, it's very much important thing in our car, I can learn alot from this, I gona do brake maintenance for my 1992 honda accord, like your guide, just subscribe to support your channel
Awesome video. Wish I had seen this video before I replaced mine. Any idea on how to clear “electric brake system and brake hold dashboard errors “ after changing rear rotors and pads. Did not use a diagnostic machine.
At this point there is a possiblity that both rear calipers are damaged. Does your E-brake engage when you want it to? What I would do is take it to a shop and have them put it into "service mode" and then back to "normal mode" and see what happens. Thank you for your question.
Thanks you so much for the extremely detailed guide Jay The Mechanic. I'm glad I watched this and your other video so I know how to do this later on as this is my first E-Brake car. Please keep up the good work. Is there any chance you could do a video on changing the fuel filter for this car later down the track? I can't seem to locate one to this date.
Most helpful video I've found. Only thing is after doing the job I'm experiencing some brake drag. I've bled several times, lubed the slider pins, but it doesn't seem like the pistons are retracting completely. Could use some help
Hi Jay, I Really enjoyed your video I took my 2018 civic to my mechanic to replace the rear brake pads and rotors ,after he replaced the brake hold light come out saying(Hold brake system problem) what can he do it to fix it. Thank you
Many thanks for the video. Please tell me in what cases I need to push back the piston? If I want to change only the rotor and not the pads - should the caliper fit back without the piston pushing? Or do I need to push it back in any case?
Thank you for your question. If the thickness of the rotor is the same and the brake pads are not being change you do not need to push back the piston. it might be a tight fit, but it will be ok.
I thought the rear brakes had to be turned and compressed ? So if I put my car into service mode all I need to do is compress? I just want to make sure as I dont want to mess up my 2019 civic hatchback when I service my brakes. Thank you sir!
Thank you for your question. The front brakes do not have to be set into service mode. The procedure is the same but the torque specs are a little higher.
@@jaythemechanic4950 yep. Thanks. Didn't know if they were twist ins or just normal. Was pushing em back just now and realized i over complicated this lmao. Very simple
@@benhajdu4040 no problem. If you haven't subscribed, please do so. Your support is greatly appreciated. Trying to reach 1k subscribers and will be giving away a snap-on DVOM ($350 value).
Man I wish I would've watched your video first. I took off the plastic cover and manually turned the ebrake. But, had a twist style piston compressor and now all the brake problem lights are on. Do you think I'm screwed?
I showed you how to do it with a scanner. Do you have this same scanner that I used? The manual way of doing it was thru Honda tech website and I mentioned several times that I did not do it that way. Many people have done it the manual way with sucess. You must have done something incorrectly.
@@jaythemechanic4950 finally found it but also alot of people dont have a code reader like that. I found another vid where you just take off the parking brake and back that off clock wise and then you can compress caliper no problem
Why not include the first step ? Is it because DIY guys don’t own the computer needed to put the parking brake in SERVICE MODE ? I watched your 15 minute video, but won’t again
Thank you for your question. In my other video you will see a manual way and computer way to put the ebrake into service mode. The link for the video should be in the description.
@@jaythemechanic4950 Hi Jay, thanks for taking the time to respond. Once I found that nobody in my circle of friends had a scanner that was updated enough to include a ‘19 civic, I gave up and dumped it at a mechanic. I’m not enjoying my EPB, or the touchscreen. And by extension, dislike the car. Moving forward, I’ll seek out simple, straight forward vehicles and videos. P. S. How am I supposed to do a handbrake turn with the ridiculous EPB ? Cheers D
@@davidleigh9823 I just bought a 2017 civic touring (check my recent video). I've been driving it for about 7 months now and its a decent car. No complaints.
Took my car to the mechanic with no issues other than that I needed my brakes changed. He calls me up telling me the lights on the dash are on and he can’t release the rear left brake. I can’t remember the exact part he told me he needed from Honda to fix it, but now im annoyed, I’m going to be more out of pocket. I drive for a living and need my car. What was suppose to be only a couple of hours of down time is now going to be who knows how long. Just venting.
Sorry to hear that. Is he at least covering the costs for you? Usually when I see a job I’ve never done before I take a few minutes to look if there are any special procedures before I start.
@@jaythemechanic4950 no, he said it wasn’t his fault. I said, well I’ve never had this issue the last time I had my brakes changed, granted the last time I changed them was at 54k miles, I’m at 123k now. He tells me, “well your car is older now things happen,” which I understand. But, as someone who knows jackshit about cars I feel like my only option is it to just believe him. I’ve only given him half the amount of the total cost for the brake change ($200) but I’m going to see if he can drop the other half. But, either way I’m going to be charged for him to fix the piece that he supposedly needs to fix. Should’ve just taken it to the dealer, lol, but how was I suppose to know this was going to happen.
Thanks so much, did this earlier on my Civic, worked perfectly. I did the manual method of putting the electronic parking brake in maintenance mode and it worked fine, no warning lights came up. I did have to calibrate it at the end of the job by pumping the brake pedal until it got hard and engaging/re-engaging the parking brake twice. No more grinding noise coming from the rear brakes!
Thank you for this video! This video also applies to changing out wheel studs as well! Once you get that rotor off it’s just getting a hammer and hitting out those wheel studs and installing new ones. Thank you for an awesome detailed video!
Nice video. Perfect explanation. For those who want to do this job... first watch his other video “ how to set Honda parking brake into service mode “ before starting. Thank you very much For sharing your knowledge
ACCORDING 2 PROCEDURE thank you for your support. I hope to make more great videos to help others.
Hi I need a help with my civic brake hold system problem ,
@@maxamednur7368 .. you should message Jay The Mechanic. He can help you.
Oh, man, you are the only one who correctly changed Civic brake pads on the whole CZcams. All other people made the same mistake when it came to retracting e park. Many people reported that the brake error lights went off after brake pad change. And it's so nice of you on showing us the manual about how to manually put e brake to service mode from Honda Independent Repair Website which is not available for free. Thank you, sir!
No problem. Please consider supporting my channel by subscribing. Help me reach 1000 subscribers. Thank you.
What video were you watching? This guy not only did not show how to put calipre in service mode, he didnt even show brake pad removal. Further, they make a kit to turn the piston and compress. Are you telling me the kit is made to destroy ones calibre parking brake system?
@@kevindecker9444 I will come back to your comment once I start changing my brakes.
@@kevindecker9444reading the video description, and listing to the beginning of the video is hard.
@@kevindecker9444 LMAO- He also said make sure you lubricate the contact points etc where the pads will sit and then he went and put the new pads on and didn't do it.
Hey Jay, that's an awesome screw driver. I had to go out and buy the same one. It saves so much time. Thanks a lot bro
This was EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thanks sir!
Great video! I’m about to change the brakes on my 18 Coupe. It’s been a while since I did a set of brakes, so I needed a refresher..
I screwed up my brakes real bad and thought I wouldn’t be able to fix them. Your video came in handy
Dude .. thank you. Detailed instructions. You rock.
Thanks for the great video Jay. For people who have a hard time removing the rotor, here's a trick, there're two threaded holes on the rotor (there should be, if you have the OEM rotor), they're fully threaded through-holes, (you can see those two smaller holes at around 3:51, roughly nine o'clock and three o'clock on the rotor). So if you put two bolts into them, keep driving them in, they will eventually press against the bearing hub and "pop" the rotor off of the bearing hub as you turn the bolt. The bolt thread size I used is M8 x 1.25 that are roughly half an inch long, you can use longer but half an inch is long enough, the important part is the thread size, otherwise it won't go in. I live in Ontario so my rotor was rust-welded shut to the bearing hub, after soaking penetrating oil, hammering the rotor, it just won't come off. The bolts worked very well for me, so if you can't remove the rotor, try the bolts.
Excellent work 👍🏼💪🏼
Thank you sir! Fantastic job
Very detailed video, thank you
Very clear explanation
This makes life so easy!!!!!
I'm glad it helped you.
Thanks for your video it really helped out saved me a lot of $$$..👍
Awesome!!! I'm glad it was helpful.
Very informative ! 👏
thank you for your comment
Hey this is extremely helpful. What type of a driver are you using is it a 1/2” I am going to attempt to change my rotors and brake pads this weekend on my 2016 Honda and really grateful for you and this detailed video.
Very good and informative video !!
very good and perfessional video. I just want to say I did the brakes on my girlfriends 2018 Civic Coupe. I just replace the caliper brackets with new brackets. Wish I watched this video before I changed out the brakes.
Thank you for watching the video. We are always learning new things. This is why I enjoy sharing my knowledge
2018...needs brakes...drive too much...or cheap ass parts..too soon for rear brakes..thanks Honda
@@jaythemechanic4950 did you know that on the rear calipers on most Hondas your supposed to turn the rear caliper piston back as opposed to pushing it back?
@@Djevan41598 Yes. On most Hondas and other cars your supposed to turn the caliper piston. On this car... you can turn or push the piston back, after you set it into maintenance mode
@@jaythemechanic4950 I recently worked on a Honda Element I replaced the starter motor and it was a pain in the rear because it’s like right underneath the exhaust manifold.
Thanks for the tip but what happen to the end of the video putting it back to normal mode
Awesome informative video. What brand of rotor/brake pad didi you use? Is a raybestos a good brand?
Great video ! Will the front brakes have a similar process ? Im hoping to work change them all tomorrow night
Very nice video sir but just to let other people know, this is a garage method to put the car into service mode. I have been working on cars for 10 years at home and I don’t even have that computer.
Yes! And if any one is interested these 2 CZcamsrs have nice videos on how to do it without a Service Computer. "Daniel Gibson" and "Jonny DIY" ( 2017 Honda Civic Rear Brake Pad Replacement with Electronic Parking Brake Reset Procedure) (2016+ Honda. How To Manually Release / Retract Electric Parking Brake & Recalibrate. Rear Brake Job)
Thank you share clip
Jay..when using the scanner to put rear brakes in service mode, do u have to leave ignition on throughout the service procedure or can u shut off the car until ur finished with repairs?
Do I have to remove the rotors and use the c clamp if I only want to change the brake pads? Also after how many miles did you have to change your pads?
How do you know if you need to replace the rotor?
What brand of brakes/rotor do you recommend?
nice video bro, it's very much important thing in our car, I can learn alot from this, I gona do brake maintenance for my 1992 honda accord, like your guide, just subscribe to support your channel
Le Cong Tri thank you for your support. I will be making more helpful videos regularly so check in often😁
Awesome video. Wish I had seen this video before I replaced mine. Any idea on how to clear “electric brake system and brake hold dashboard errors “ after changing rear rotors and pads. Did not use a diagnostic machine.
At this point there is a possiblity that both rear calipers are damaged. Does your E-brake engage when you want it to? What I would do is take it to a shop and have them put it into "service mode" and then back to "normal mode" and see what happens. Thank you for your question.
Soooo how do you put the car in service mode without a scanner?
Good morning Jay, Great video! I miss the part of how to put the E-Brake into service mode
Good day. It's on my other video. The link should be in the description.
@@jaythemechanic4950 Thank you! I saw it, very useful because I am about to replace my pads.
Thanks you so much for the extremely detailed guide Jay The Mechanic. I'm glad I watched this and your other video so I know how to do this later on as this is my first E-Brake car. Please keep up the good work. Is there any chance you could do a video on changing the fuel filter for this car later down the track? I can't seem to locate one to this date.
Thank you for watching. Follow my channel. Not sure if that is something that I will be doing anytime soon.
Thanks Jay... This video helped change the rear brakes easily!! One question - do you need the scanner for front brakes too?
Thank you for your question. No, this procedure is only for rear brakes, because the E-brake is electronic.
Does the rotor always need replacing?
Most helpful video I've found. Only thing is after doing the job I'm experiencing some brake drag. I've bled several times, lubed the slider pins, but it doesn't seem like the pistons are retracting completely. Could use some help
Did you ever get this figured out?
Newbie here, can you send me the link of the caliper compressor tool?
I'm gonna show this video to my mechanic hehe
Haha. He should give you a discount after
Hi Jay,
I Really enjoyed your video
I took my 2018 civic to my mechanic to replace the rear brake pads and rotors ,after he replaced the brake hold light come out saying(Hold brake system problem) what can he do it to fix it.
Thank you
@@maxamednur7368 same rn did u ever get it fixed?
@@moneymick22 yes onother mech same shop fixed
I cant find the video on how to put the service brake in the maintenance mode, when reinstalling do I really have to torque the bolts or is snug ok??
I put the link for the maintenance mode video in the brake job video description.
Many thanks for the video. Please tell me in what cases I need to push back the piston? If I want to change only the rotor and not the pads - should the caliper fit back without the piston pushing? Or do I need to push it back in any case?
Thank you for your question. If the thickness of the rotor is the same and the brake pads are not being change you do not need to push back the piston. it might be a tight fit, but it will be ok.
@@jaythemechanic4950 Thank you for your reply🙂
As someone who skipped the intro, I missed the part about setting it into service mode lol
And how do you do that exactly ( my parking brake switch is defective)
Great video. Thanks lot.
Do we need to release the electronic parking before the replacement?
Yes, there is a link to the video in the description.
I did this job by applying 12v with a dewalt battery to the motor to release then pushing in the piston.
Yes, that is another way to do it.
What is the tool to remove the caliper I belive it’s the third step of your video
I thought the rear brakes had to be turned and compressed ? So if I put my car into service mode all I need to do is compress? I just want to make sure as I dont want to mess up my 2019 civic hatchback when I service my brakes. Thank you sir!
Yes. I have another video on how to put it into service mode. check the link in the description.
are both the front and rear pads the same part number?
Thank you for your question. No, front brakes are a different size and part #.
Hey Jay, how different is this from changing the front brakes?
Thank you for your question. The front brakes do not have to be set into service mode. The procedure is the same but the torque specs are a little higher.
What if the caliber doesn't collapse
I know this is old but I hope you can respond. Why not twist and compress? Isn’t it supposed to twisted and compressed?
Hey Kyle. After you set the ebrake into maintenance mode you can either twist and compress OR just compress.
So my dad generously did my break job but i hadn’t watched your video till now & all my break lights are on. What do i do now 😔
Depends on the problem. Are your brakes working fine?
Do you push back the caliper piston the same way as normal?
yes . you can. just like i did in the video. But, you MUST put the E-brake into service mode first.
@@jaythemechanic4950 yep. Thanks. Didn't know if they were twist ins or just normal. Was pushing em back just now and realized i over complicated this lmao. Very simple
@@benhajdu4040 no problem. If you haven't subscribed, please do so. Your support is greatly appreciated. Trying to reach 1k subscribers and will be giving away a
snap-on DVOM ($350 value).
Man I wish I would've watched your video first. I took off the plastic cover and manually turned the ebrake. But, had a twist style piston compressor and now all the brake problem lights are on. Do you think I'm screwed?
😓
have someone take a look at it
Hey Jay you never showed how to put e-break in maintenance mode and back to normal.
It is in my other video. Check the link in the description. Thanks
So is it metric or standard 7mm
its a #7 Allen key
what cut of file are you using? thanks
Mill file
snap on
Can you do a video on a Civic rear brakes with drum brakes?
what year is the vehicle?
@@jaythemechanic4950 It's a 2012 but any drum brake video would help.
Discredited for using snap on power tools. Every mechanic knows. Lol just. Good video
But definetly should not be filing anything. Wire brush should be more than enough
1:38 (#7 hex/alan key)
Can I use a c clamp for this?
yes. After you set it to maintenance mode.
@@jaythemechanic4950 thank you , soon as I typed this comment you even mentioned it in the video lol
Number 7 what genius?
Where's the video showing outting the ebrake on service mode?
The link is in the description box. or you can look thru my channel.
You have to spin the caliper piston. Not push it on some models.
No, as long as the calipers are in service mode you can push them back...just like I showed in the video
@@jaythemechanic4950 what if you manually disengage the e brake with the e11 torx?
@@kairu.kun.z Same if you do it manually or with scanner it makes no difference.
“A number 7” doesn’t help me too much lmao idk what the fuck that means
Why did Honda add that damn rotar screw
Because engineers are absolute dipshits.
You didnt show how to put the rear calipers into service mode..
There is a separate video. The link is in the description
I broke my caliper following your method, you said you showed us how to put car in service mode that is not true
how did you manage to do that if you followed my method?
I showed you how to do it with a scanner. Do you have this same scanner that I used? The manual way of doing it was thru Honda tech website and I mentioned several times that I did not do it that way. Many people have done it the manual way with sucess. You must have done something incorrectly.
What do you mean with it number 7 you didn't show the tool you were using he just went right into it and doesn't really help
sorry. It's #7 Allen
You didnt show how to put into service mode.
see my other video.
@@jaythemechanic4950 finally found it but also alot of people dont have a code reader like that. I found another vid where you just take off the parking brake and back that off clock wise and then you can compress caliper no problem
@@mud15x Yes, my video also shows you the manual way without scanner.
The spec is 55 ft-lb for the caliper bracket bolts on the rear brackets. You said 80, which is the spec for the front.
Depends on trim, si and type r are 80
Why not include the first step ? Is it because DIY guys don’t own the computer needed to put the parking brake in SERVICE MODE ? I watched your 15 minute video, but won’t again
Thank you for your question. In my other video you will see a manual way and computer way to put the ebrake into service mode. The link for the video should be in the description.
@@jaythemechanic4950 Hi Jay, thanks for taking the time to respond. Once I found that nobody in my circle of friends had a scanner that was updated enough to include a ‘19 civic, I gave up and dumped it at a mechanic.
I’m not enjoying my EPB, or the touchscreen. And by extension, dislike the car. Moving forward, I’ll seek out simple, straight forward vehicles and videos. P. S. How am I supposed to do a handbrake turn with the ridiculous EPB ? Cheers D
@@davidleigh9823 I just bought a 2017 civic touring (check my recent video). I've been driving it for about 7 months now and its a decent car. No complaints.
Took my car to the mechanic with no issues other than that I needed my brakes changed. He calls me up telling me the lights on the dash are on and he can’t release the rear left brake. I can’t remember the exact part he told me he needed from Honda to fix it, but now im annoyed, I’m going to be more out of pocket. I drive for a living and need my car. What was suppose to be only
a couple of hours of down time is now going to be who knows how long.
Just venting.
Sorry to hear that. Is he at least covering the costs for you? Usually when I see a job I’ve never done before I take a few minutes to look if there are any special procedures before I start.
@@jaythemechanic4950 no, he said it wasn’t his fault. I said, well I’ve never had this issue the last time I had my brakes changed, granted the last time I changed them was at 54k miles, I’m at 123k now. He tells me, “well your car is older now things happen,” which I understand. But, as someone who knows jackshit about cars I feel like my only option is it to just believe him.
I’ve only given him half the amount of the total cost for the brake change ($200) but I’m going to see if he can drop the other half. But, either way I’m going to be charged for him to fix the piece that he supposedly needs to fix. Should’ve just taken it to the dealer, lol, but how was I suppose to know this was going to happen.