5 Ways to Tear Up Equipment Running a Bush Hog
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2020
- I was out doing some brush hogging the other night and thinking about all the folks who are moving to the country and buying tractors and bush hogs and using them for the first time. 2020 has ended up being a good year for small tractor sales and many novice operators are out there cutting pastures for the first time and may not know that there are multiple ways they can damage new equipment, that won't be covered under warranty. So I covered them all in this video.
The first, and most dangerous way to damage equipment is by tractor roll over. Most of us moving to the country don't get the flat and fertile farmland, we get the hilly ground and are trying to mow slopes. Always remember to keep your seat belt fastened and roll bar up when cutting, and definitely make sure your tractor is properly ballasted. Tire ballast is something I'd never be without and the best choice is Rim Guard, who sponsors my videos. Rim Guard (at rimguardsolutions.com) is the original beet juice, a byproduct of the sugar beet industry. It's heavy, won't freeze to -35 degrees Fahrenheit, and is non-caustic and environmentally friendly. For most of us, liquid ballast in the back tires is all we need, but there are two more things you can do if you still feel you're in danger when mowing on hills. One is to add wheel weights, the other is to set the tractor tires out wider. Avoiding a rollover is the best way to prevent damage, if you ever do turn a tractor over, turn it off as soon as you can, engines don't run well upside down.
The second way to damage equipment is by not providing proper lubrication. Make sure you grease all PTO shafts, including the U-joints and the shield, and don't forget the tail wheel, which takes a beating and requires frequent greasing. Keeping your equipment lubricated will make it last longer and avoid repairs. I like to grease every time I've brush hogged from 4-8 hours.
The third way to mess up equipment is to let bolts get loose. Your owner's manual will tell you to check all bolts on a brush hog frequently. There is so much vibration on a cutter, bolts tend to loosen themselves up and you don't want the cutter coming off the tractor or the gearbox to come loose.
Fourth, make sure the temperature gauge on the tractor works because radiators can get completely clogged up during bush hogging. Tall weeds may have seed heads on them that shatter when hit by the front of the tractor, then the fan will suck those seeds and debris right into the radiator (and hydro cooler if the tractor is a hydrostat) and the engine can heat up rapidly. Keep an eye on the engine temperature and clean out the radiator often, with a tool like Radiator Genie.
Finally, if you have a "draw" or valley on your place, be really careful not to drive straight through it. When your tractor wheels are headed up a hill while the tail wheel is still coming down the previous hill you can create a real bind in your PTO and something has to give. It can blow the back out of your cutter gearbox, bend the shaft, or even break the PTO shaft off the tractor. All are expensive repairs.
Keeping these five potentials for breakdowns in mind at all time will help you protect your tractor investment and keep you safe!
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Barb wire is the worst. 9 years after buying my property I’m still picking it up. I’ve had it wrapped around the bush hog at least 3 times and ripped multiple cv axle boots on the 4 wheelers.
I bought an old cattle farm had not been used for grazing in at least 25 years. I went through and took at the fences out but the farmer left miles of barb wire just laying on the ground with 20+ year of growth over it now.
PUCLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT- DO NOT LEAVE BARB WIRE ON THE GROUND-
EVER.
Thank you.
Even though I bought a Kubota in 2011, never having brush hogged, we now need reliable information. My son bought a cattle ranch (no cows). He needs a tractor, and we need to brush hog soon. This is like the uncle who has years of experience that we don't have. This is what made America great--everyone working for their own self interest, and helping each other along the way. Thank you, Uncle!
I have seen several tragedies relating to what you described. So as a 35 year rural Paramedic let me add a few more .
6. DO NOT work near moving PTO or Engines with a hoodie or and other loose items . TAKE THE STRINGS OUT OF YOUR HOODIE !
7. ONLY START TRACTOR FROM THE SEAT , several folks have had tragedies relating to “jumping the selenoid” with a jumper wire or making other adjustments while trying to start their tractors ( I’ve had a few close calls myself using a jumper wire ) .
W
When mowing a field for the first time keep your bucket at the same height your mowing. I have found quite a few t posts, stumps and rocks. And then toss them in the bucket to clear the field.
That’s what I was thinking too. I actually just asked that question before I read the comments lol. So, that does work then?
It also knocks alot of the fuzzy junk off the weeds that likes to clog up your radiator.
Other than avoiding it all together, the BEST way to keep from rolling while mowing on an incline is to mow up and down the hill rather than side to side. Extra weight, whether ballast, a loader or something else is a necessity to keep the front tires planted when mowing up the hill. Your absolutely right about mowing draughts too.
Best few hundred dollars I spent, all tires rim guard, or foam ( front). Wide setting plus wheel weights. Done after I almost turned over.
When we bought our farm, the fields hadn't been mowed in 20 years. First thing I learned was if there is a thorn bush that is bigger than the rest, don't run it over. It is bigger for a reason. High centered on a boulder.
I learned about the danger of damaging my tractor or bush hog shortly after buying my first new 790 John Deere tractor with the 513 bush hog and had to mow at our church one day. When I got to the slope which goes down to the highway I had to choose whether to go down this incline or go across it, or not do it at all and I chose not to do that area, but let someone with a mower go down that slope with their mower and it was a great move on my part as it kept me from damaging my equipment.
I recently encountered the condition where the coolant temperature rose very quickly from normal. I was headed back to the barn anyhow, so when I got there I pulled the chaff screen and was STUNNED by how clogged it was. Lesson learned!
That bind on slopes/valleys is real. I had a pull behind (not 3 point) brush hog break the housing on the pto shaft bearing (very front of the brush hog) and send the probably 50-75lb pto shaft 15 feet in the air. (from the rear half of the slip joint to the gear box). Could have easily been deadly. Wasn't that deep of a valley/extreme angle at the bearing either. Not to mention around $60 for a new bearing and housing too. Granted the brush hog is old and well worn, I'm the 4th generation to use it.
Great videos Mike! Remember to release the tension on the slip clutch springs and slip the clutch at least yearly. They get to where you have no protection. My worst experience running a hog was when I was mowing behind a car lot in a residential area. I hit a man hole cover and one of the blades broke off at the mount bolt. Needless to say, once I got the pro shut down it occurred to me “oh crap where did that blade go. Luckily it went into a dentists parking lot and not a house. It had flown around 200 feet! Ford 1920 with 6 foot Land Pride.
I was backing into a big weed patch when we just bought our place. Chopped into an old swing set built by a pipe fitter. I believe I would have chopped it up had it been a store bought swing with that many years rust, but it scared me to death before it broke the shear bolt. Lesson learned.
Thanks for the good reminders!
I think in the 80's my great grandpa bought a 5 foot new holland brush hog, and when he got it he took it over rocks and stumps. We still use it to this day. Its in rough shape but it works.
Love your vid's Mike...tons of great advice
Thanks for your videos man! New tractor owner here, learning lots of stuff from ya.
Excellent suggestions. Thanks!
Thanks for the reminder on the greasing and cleaning the radiator. I need to do both!
This video was simple, short and to the point! Thank you I am now a subscriber!
Hi Mike, I find covering the front of my radiator with a piece of fly screen mesh helps keep my radiation clean and makes it easy to clean in the paddock.
Hi Mike! Thanks for another great set of tractor tips! All great points and especially the one about knowing your property. My land seems to grow rocks and every time I bush hog, I manage to scalp a new crop of rocks. Haven’t broken a shear pin yet, but one day I’m sure I will. Thanks for sharing your know-how!
Great Reminders thank you for this video
I bought an abandoned farm in 2013 and I second everything you e said here. I’ve hit barbed wire, sheep fence, rocks, stumps, etc. the old ground grows this stuff almost yearly as the frost pushes it to the surface. I love your videos!!!
Appreciate the tips. 4 years in now but still feel like a newbie sometimes.
Good to know. I have a tractor and didnt know to lube it every time. Thank you for the info!!!
Another excellent training video for new owners and a great refresher for those of us who consider ourselves experienced. One of those five I had no idea about and it would have been a very expensive lesson. My local Kubota dealer did recommend Rim Guard and it is not very expensive for the safety it helps provide. Keep up the great work!
As I make plans to purchase a tractor to work on my rural property, I've been reviewing many videos to build my knowledge prior to jumping in. Mike's got some phenomenal advice, concise and to the point. Much appreciated.
Great advice! Thank you
Mike
Nice post. You reminded me to check the torque on my brush hog bolts. They got loose last year and I will be doing a lot of mowing this weekend and will make sure to check them before I start.
Good information. A relative of mine once got a downed fence wound up in a bushhog behind a 70hp JD once. Didn't realize what was up until slip clutch was smoking. Took most of the day with tin snips and pliers getting that stuff unwound and cut out from under it.
This is an amazing primer for brush hogging, probably saved me a lot of trouble!!!
Everyone, tape the retainer pins , mine came out on right side lift arm while hogging, thank GOD I didn’t get killed , bush hog caught tire lug when turning and came up on fender , not a cheap repair, .fender stopped it from getting me, new tire, 1,000 dolllars, roll of tape three dollars.
Guilty of learning the overheating from seeds / brush in the radiator the hard way. Truly thought something was wrong and glad I figured it out before I caused any damage.
Thanks Mike! Another helpful video with great advice! Doug Baird
Thanks for the reminder on proper lubrication. I just ordered a nice lever grease gun from your website - really looking forward to replacing my piece of junk.
Also, a problem I ran into as a newbie when brush hogging - improper set up of stabilizers on the 3-point. I bought an old tractor, the stabilizers were fairly worn out, and I broke one of them during my first couple days of brush hogging. Replacements are on the way and I'll be figuring out how to get them set up correctly.
Great info Mike.
Very good vid for the new folks Mike... nothing worse than mowing on a slope, having the rear tire bump upward on a rock... I think grease and checking bolts n nuts on everything is number one.
Always appreciate your videos.... Now I just need to get a tractor!!
Great tips, thanks.
Great advice. One that has damaged my equipment is the brush stripping the adjustment pins out of the 3 pt. hitch. If one side comes loose, it can bend the heck out of mower mounts and hitch arms. When hogging I replace any "hair pins" with cotter pins.
I use padlocks for that exact reason.
I mow a lot of roughly stuff. Mine gets grade 8 bolts w/ lock nuts. I've had the same problem before and this solved it.
Hey Mike, thanks for all the great videos! Here's a Great Tip I received from my local (Idaho) dealer TC. We were talking about having to go around my tractor/mower checking for loose nuts and bolts. He suggested tightening down everything and putting a touch of paint were the nut/bolt meets the metal. That way I can do a visual check and know right away if something has loosened or backed off. Thanks again for all you share!
We call that torque-striping. Very common in aviation.
Great video, thank you
Once again, very good cautionary points. As a well-experienced tractor owner pulling a 10' brush hog, I know you can't be too careful around hills, mowing swales, hidden tree stumps, etc.
Another informative video that should help/remind operators of the dangers of mowing with s rotary cutter.
I appreciate what you had to say on brush hogging. We are kind of new to it with the property we have and some of the things I found out the hard way, but didn't break the tractor or the brush hog. I know I have to do something with the radiator because it is starting to get dirty so I bought your radiator genie. Looks like a very effective tool at a reasonable price and I can use it on some other pieces of equipment as well! I did want to get your take on the new front loader attached brush hogs by Lane Shark and trailblazer that will articulate to 90° so you can cut tree branches up high as well as get under things when it's down low and offset to do your creek and pond banks. People that haven't seen to like them, but I think Trail Blazer has a more stout and safer product.
*_Awesome_* info!
All valid points. I regularly mow the backside of a dam, and on my dash I have mounted an inexpensive "Lev-O-Gauge," a type of bubble level that indicates the angle of tilt of the tractor laterally. With ballasted rear tires and judicious mowing speed I can dependably mow up to a 35* slope day in and day out. It's nice having some reference to compare when mowing an unfamiliar area, insuring ahead of time it is free of obstructions and uneven terrain. As you have mentioned in a recent video. proper PTO drive shaft length will go a long way in preventing damage in crossing low spots and swells.
I’ll add a level gauge too. I like that idea!
Needs to be a hill you know. A groundhog hole can mess you up.
Good info. Thank you!
Hey Mike I noticed you using an adjustable wrench I started using a spud wrench it helps align any spots that may need it, Thanks for another great video!
Mike, you are awesome! Here sits a 60+ year old new tractor owner, subscribed and watching all your videos! My first brush hog and figuring out what works and what does not! Appreciate your hard work brother, very very much appreciated!! Be safe and have a great day!
Thanks Mickey, holler if you have any questions along the way.
I run my dozer through new fields with a monster root rake just barely tipped under to ground contact and it'll find branches, rocks, pipes, etc and then run through it with a mower floating about 6 or 8 inches just in case something skinny enough sticking straight up slides through the rake gaps. If you don't have anything to pre sweep your field with you can also run your brush hog with the three point slightly up and that elevates the ass end so that anything that clears the deck on the tractor side will be passed under your stump jumper safely and won't get you hung up between the deck and the mower shaft. Wire can still sneak in there but you'll hear that slapping around the second it gets grabbed so shut her down and kill that pto as quick as you can and you can usually clear it pretty quick. Also a cheap rake can be made with a bunch of old tires, some rebar, fender washers, nuts and bolts. Get about twenty tires and a few cheap 3/8" drill bits, lay your tires out as close as they'll lay in a three or four row pattern, 5-4-5-4 or however wide and deep as you want but you want at least 3 rows but 4 or 5 is better. Drill thru the treads at the tightest fit to the next tire on every side, put a fender washer on your bolt, squirt some liquid nails into the hole, drive your 7/16" x 2"or 2 1/2" bolt through the hole and the glue will help lubricate it plus it'll keep your nuts from rattling off and then put another fender washer on then nut it up tight, repeat until you've got all the tires bolted together every single place the treads touch together. Then on side wall closest to the treads that will be directly facing the back of your tow vehicle, drill thru top and bottom of the side wall, drive some 1/2" rebar thru both holes so it hangs down about an inch or so into the ground and smear a glob of liquid nails inside the tires where the rebar goes thru the side walls and let all that dry overnight or however long you can let it set up. The glue will harden on the rebar and the tire but really you just want it there so it can't yank the rebar through the sidewall or push it up and out. The tires will flex before the rebar can dig too hard and get hung up so don't worry about that one inch hanging down. The rebar will flip all kinds of crap into the tires as you're dragging plus it'll grab wire and sticks and whatever it can pick up and the stuff that you hit like pipe or big rocks or t posts that it won't pick up will make a racket that you can hear while your driving because all those rebar teeth are clanking over it so you know where to go back and clean up by hand or whatever. Plus it'll level off gopher mounds and help spread out the tangly crap like vines or trash that's blown up into the area and covered by the overgrowth. It'll find that carpet scrap and old toaster and make it pop up enough to where you can drive back through your field and locate them for later clean up. It's a great tool to plant seed beds and spread manure around as it runs over the patties. And its way cheaper than a 1400 pound rake and a $120,000 dozer. I've got both and I still prefer to use my Ford 4x4 and a mega tire drag to clean up fields and pastures for my own farm and all over the state. People like to see that yellow iron on the job but once they see how well old school ingenuity works they don't care and it all pays the same. And sometimes big tools tear up more ground than they fix. But I do love me some Cats.
Yes, as Mike said....If at all possible wait until winter if you're unfamiliar with the area your brush cutting. This is especially true around old farms. I've come across huge rocks, metal fence post, landscape timbers, barbed wire, wheels, stumps, tree limbs, holes, and hidden ditches. All hidden under tall field grass.
Just learned something new....again! lol Thanks Mike
Good tips
My neighbor farmed every inch of his land. Very steep hills and always a tall tricycle tractor. It was unbelievable.
We need rain up here in Nova Scotia too. Dangerously dry.
The worst hidden object of all, is that customer that tells you the field is clear, and they obviously didn't have a clue. So always be careful.
Also to help with roll over keep the loader bucket low to the ground.
I use the bucket of the tractor as a rock finder. I curl the bucket up all the way and keep it just off the ground so if I hit something, rock, pipe, stump etc, it'll usually ride up it and not slam you to a stop. It makes such a racket you'll think you've torn it off the tractor but it'll save your blades. Mowing hill sides is something like you said you're better off staying off. I have one hill along a state highway that's as steep as I care to be on. Its only about 150' or so and I can get it done in four passes with my 6' Woods deck, I have it in four wheel drive, put the ROPS up, wear the seat belt, keep the bucket as low as I can to keep the center of gravity as low as possible and GO SLOW! If your front wheel drops into a woodchuck hole or a dip or something on the down hill side it shouldn't throw your tractor.
Like you've said many times, use common sense, or as my father used to say, "use your head for something other than a hat rack". Love your videos Mike, keep 'em coming.
Mike, although not as common, except for batwing cutters, some of us have towed cutters. It would be interesting to hear you address how tight you can turn (left or right) without causing a PTO driveshaft problem. Obviously, you don't want to get the tires into the cutter deck, but that doesn't feel like a good limit to me since a lot of the tractors we drive now will turn really sharply.
I enjoy watching your videos, BTW.
I had my new 2605 hd ballasted, tires widened out , loader assembly helps also,
Nice tractor , I got the same one.
Tractor Mike, I'd love for you to come to WV and see my hills that we brush hog on. You could make a whole series of videos!
Haha same. I have a farm in Doddridge/Tyler county and the hills are insane. I can’t count how many times I have came close to flipping a tractor.😂😂😂
As a retired sports car racer that a). knows about what vibration can do and b). broke my fair share of stuff, I highly recommend you use some kind of threadlocking compound like LocTite on the threads. No affiliation here, just a recommendation. Depending on the thread and the compound, it can either just make is less apt to back off to almost "glued" together. May not completely eliminate things wanting to fall off, but highly recommended. Also, I qunderstood what you were saying, but I chuckled when you said it. I would invite you qup to Wisconsin some winter to brush hog. I would enjoy seeing that, but maybe bring your chains too. lol. I do appreciate what you are doing, even considering my current tractor is a '50 8n. One of these days I will break down and get something from the 70's. ;-)
great timing. I'll be bush hogging in a week or two!
Hi from Australia Mike. When the shot was zoomed to the gearbox of your "brush hog" (funny name) I was surprised to see it is made in China. Aus is full of Chinese products too.
I learned the radiator tip this past summer. I kept running hot couldnt figure out why... Lightbulb...clean out the filter! viola! Fixed.
Thanks from a green horn!
well another way to help roll overs the most is adding dually tires possible all around this most greatly increases you safe angle of operation. but this has a down side of being harder to navigate and isn't recommended for super thick bush because the extra torque the axles take (almost double) from all impacts on outside tires, or areas you got to mow close against. so do steep mows last preferably if you go this route
I recently found a large, charged, fire extinguisher in the tall grass, with a woods brushbull 60. BIG yellow cloud!
I have a buddy that ran over his chain saw and a plume of fire came out.
I cleaned radiator. It was tough and full of gunk, etc!
A friend of mine was mowing food plots at our hunting club a few years ago and he ran over two auto/truck rims someone had thrown in the plot. Needless to say, he did major damage to his brush hog. Oh, the rims didn't take it very well either.
Hi Mike, I love your video's and I do know about hitting rocks here in the Ozarks. Mike, I have yet to see a video on which holes on the implement do you hook the 3 point to. On my brush bull, I have 3/4 inch and 1-inch holes for the top link. Is it a no-brainer to use the hole according to what category your top link is. When my tractor was delivered to me they had the brush bull attached to the 1-inch hole. That made for some pay in the link. I change it to the 3/4 hole. Was I correct? Thanks, Mike.
For radiator clutter, I've got a Ryobi 40V Leaf Blower that works wonders. My property has no power, so I have to rely on portable equipment and lots of batteries.
I have a tow behind 12ft modern ag viper model. No big deal with me on the pto. I do have a 3 point, but its only for corners. And places the 12 wont go.
If mowing on hills, I’d widen the track width first, and then add weight.
My neighbor just replaced the gear box on his brush hog - I told him he is good to mow another 1,000 rocks!
Lol. Good one
I tore the fenders off a 95 hp Kubota running thru trees from hornets. I have trashed a radiator from weed seeds. I have nearly rolled over in sink holes. I have trashed two tail wheels (don't back up !!)
Excellent advice. Oh by the way, the first 1 I call the "sinister sidehill." LoL
Would it be a good idea to keep your front bucket low to the ground so that if there is something there that you misses on your walkthrough, at least the bucket will A: hit it and get your attention, or B: the item will get scooped up (like a decent sized rock)? I have to brush hog some nasty horse weed and there are some rocks out there. The weed is about 5-6’ tall right now and it’s in its “seeding” season, so it’s nasty to walk through.
Hello Mike, I love watching your video clips. I do have a question of my own that you haven't cover on a tractor yet. I have a john deere 4310 hydro and I'm a small and short guy, I have a hard time trying to keep the tractor running or should I say moving. Its my weight and gas pedal. The problem is the foot pedal is to far for my foot to reach even when the seat is move forward all the way up. How can you help me on this problem?
Scott, you're not the only one to have this problem, I think your best option is to modify the seat so you sit further forward. This link relates to a Kubota but I'd bet the seat on your Deere could be modified this way: www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/legs-too-short-to-reach-pedals.17053/. Good luck!
How do you get the stump jumper off.
Where do I watch the video on your quick attachment system for my front loader on my Branson 2400h.
Mike, I’ve started brush hogging as a part time job. Is there a way to know if I am overworking my tractor?
I wish you didn't skip over the gearbox lube on the mower. The bottom seal is a notorious leak spot.
There ought to be a school for us newbies.
I think it’s time you get a draw bar mounted rotary cutter rather than a 3pt mounted one, for mowing down in the draws.
👍
Hey Mike, I have been around tractors my whole life. Live on a 20 acre peace of property and use one nearly all the time. I am in the market for a new Rotary Cutter....8 or 10 foot rigid dual spindle. I don't know which brand yet, but nearly all them offer a "Semi-Mount" as an option, along with 3 point and tow. I live in very steep terrain, and use the tractor to cut very steep hills all the time....some of which is uneven. Would a "semi mount" be beneficial? I am not very familiar to this type of attachment. Wondering if it has any benefits for me. Thanks for the content Mike!
Get a 3 point and put a chain in place of top link, old farmer remedy
Mike, how long does it take you to plow 1 acre with a 2 bottom plow. Thank you
Not long if setup right. I ran a bad pair (old 1950s ford 2 bottom plow and a 4045 mahindra) it didnt like to cut the ground. Took me 2 hours. Properly matching set, can take 30 minutes for me.
😊👍
Do you have any troubleshooting suggestions for being unable to turn off the PTO? I have a new holland TC40D with an RD8400 connected. I had a hard time engaging the lever to mow last night. After I was done mowing I was unable to move the lever to disengage the deck. The local dealer/service center is booking out a month so I'm hoping I can maybe do some basic troubleshooting. Any advice is appreciated!
I'd follow the lever back under the tractor and see if I could see something jammed up in there or components needing some lubrication. Use WD-40 Gel Lube for jobs like that. If you've been brush hogging it could just be a limb crammed in there that's keeping the lever from moving. Good luck!
Don’t know why he didn’t mention front tire ballast.
You might be getting a little rain from Laura.
5? Amateur... There are dozens of ways. My favorite was a cousin who bought a new hog and he hooked the tail wheel on day one onto a stump and broke it off. So he pulled the hog to a tree and winched it up in the air to weld the tail frame back on. Then he managed to drop the cutter on the ground bending the lift frame and caving one side in...Anyway, by the end of day one, he pretty much had trashed his new hog.. rof. - ps - those plastic PTO covers are garbage. The old metal ones were much better.
Does it hurt any to spray the radiator with water while engine is turned off but still extremely hot?
I don't think it would be a good idea. Hot engine parts and cold water don't go well together. Go in and grab a drink of water and come back in 20-30 minutes and spray all you want.
i have one other question about ballest. i have a kubota b8200 4x4 hst-d is there any point to put ballest into front tires?
Ballast in front tires is a bad idea. Puts a lot of stress on the 4x4 parts (if you have them), and unless you don't fill them very much you cut way down on the volume of air that can compress when the tire gets loaded or hits a bump. Use weights on the front, they're cheap or you can easily make your own.
Mike let me tell you something you are good explain things I have T1630 new holland and I tray to buy safety switch do you Know a dealer may have some thanks
Jesus, if you'll go to New Holland's parts website you can find the part number of the safety switch you need and order it online and have it shipped to you. Here's the link: www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag. First, where it says "Type" on the right side pick "Model". Put your model # in and you can search every component on that tractor. When you get the part number, put it in your Google browser and multiple options should come up. Good luck!
Are you from arkansas??
I'm from MO.
Won't the u joint swivel to compensate for the draw.
Up to a point it will, if it's steep, it can get in a hard bind and then you have problems.
I don't know I'm brand new. But I will be careful. And do it the way you say seems to be a very good way I don't want expensive repairs thanks for your information.