I am no professional but, I would have to say the issue with the rocks is that a land planer is a finishing tool. You are dragging into a surface that isn't a finished product. The size of rocks popping up are ones you would have a foot down. The top layer should be a gravel consistency for the plane to work as advertised. An easier way to look at it. A plane is a butter knife, meant for smoothing and leveling smooth aggregate.
Think of it operating as a wood plane the high spots will cause a lot of drag and you only want to take a little at a time setting the top link to help control pressure on the front and back, and the side rails may need to be a little wider to help them to float so that you are only working the area inside the box, the length of the box helps to smooth the high and lows verses just a blade thay you have to keep feathering the 3 point up and down to get things smooth, all in all I thought it was working pretty good after watching some of the other videos of land plane that were commercial built.
Teeth on the front blade (railroad spike works good). Angle the middle blade more to let more material flow over. Also attach an expanded metal to the top/behind the middle blade to catch rocks. More weight in the back and adjust the top center link.
oh the expanded metal is a good idea. I have a problem with waves in my airstrip, not ruts. Ive only been using a drag harrow. Need to make a long narrow drag box i think or use an old axle assembly for some rear wheels back on a pole, I would thing something 12-16' feet long is required to really get the bumps out, Ill be pulling it with a 4-wheeler.
I know your post is old but this is a great idea. Thinking maybe some 6" angle iron on top of the expanded at an angle to vibrate the rocks to one side. Thank you for that tip.
Road needs a crown for sure. Need to drag a little off the side of the road to bring material back into the tracks. That material will displace the water. Wet roads are tough to grade as the next vehicle is going to leave ruts. I would add some 3/8” flat bar to the bottom of the sides as skids
Hi :) Some weight for the last Blade could help a little. It would also be super interesting to see what happens when you turn it around so that 2 Blades are flattening the surface.
Definitely needs some form of ground breaking at the front of the plane and a flattening blade at the rear to smooth things rather than "scrape" them. I'm saying this for two reasons (each to their respective problem). 1. the plane lacks the operational weight to pull the job in one pass, neither can the machine take the abuse, so simpler to tooth it. 2. i saw a lot of the ground that was scraped go over, and then just fall flat. If you'd add a flat surface that "sucks" up the scraped ground, it would work a lot nice. If it were my project, and only then, i'd probably do something like this instead of point 2: weld 3 chain lengths, one center, two at the ends, and add a piece of scrap tubing (square, preferably) filled with concrete to them. The tubing would float independently up and down over the uprooted ground and the weight of the concrete would make it sit on the ground. But that's just me, i'd understand if others would be reticent in doing something like that since it's a considerable investment.
I used a land plane years ago to level a new hay field. The one I used was about 20 feet long, with a single blade in the middle. It needs to be long to bridge the low spots and shave off the high spots. The dirt would collect quite a bit in front of the blade, but drop out to fill in low spots. It needed to flex to follow the ground contors and shave off the high spots. I think yours would work better if it was dry, but I think it's attatced too solid on those forks and can't flex? Just my guess. Try just dragging it with a chain.
I have some experience running a road grader and in building my own implements. You have a good idea, but I think that it is a little wet. Also, if you could figure out a way of setting the digging angle of the blades and turn them up a little higher, it might not bring as many rocks up. Maybe make them bolt on and have a couple different holes to change the angle. I built my own box scraper and I prefer it to a land plane, but that's just my personal opinion.
I am thinking of making one. I think you need some play in the top link so it will let the back follow the ground. Like what a bush hog has it lets the mower move to the contours. With yours maybe if the back cross angles were just a couple inches higher it would still lift with the forks but let it drop some in use?
I agree. The top link should be chain or have a section of chain instead of traditional threaded fixed top link. The chain link should be loose when setting it up on level ground but still short enough to lift the rear of the land plane with the 3pt lift. This will allow the land leveler to stay in contact with the ground when the tractor rides over a high spot. This is a relatively inexpensive change. You should also consider a method to add some weight to you land leveler. Otherwise, well done.
Hi I'm not a farmer but I only have suggestions 1 suspend the drag unit below the forks by brackets or chains or brackets front with chains at the rear 2 Add a platform at the rear for adding weights or cinder blocks so the leveler blade is no lifted up as the scraper blades ride up and over the big rocks 3 Plus as an addition; what if you integrated something designed similar to a Front End Loader ROCK BUCKET that collected the large rocks as You go along. Then dump them between passes. Those rocks will add down forces at the rear leveler blade These are only suggestions since watching your video I saw the whole assembly lifting off the ground in a parallel motion instead of allowing the leveler blade to remain on the ground Ken in Florida
Your designed basically worked very well, it appears too Me that it is too dependent on the fork assembly and it rises & falls as a unit Flexibility of the front portion too the rear might help it be more efficient
Ok what you need is some side tilt to dig into edges about 15 degrees make passes each side bringing road base to center of drive way forming a crown the drains water to both sides help maintain surface shape those 3 point rear hitch can be tilted ajusted its not to wet its better once the side drainage is formed once you have got both sides to depth make a few passes with blade at level position if your tyresxare leaving wheel indentations trails get off it let it dry out if its holding weight keep driving to compact the surface when it drys out it will be like concrete hard
Take some excavator tracks and pull that no hassle no cutting teeth it will end up snotty and you will pay a month down the line the trick is conformity in hardness ...and for the smart ases not compaction just get old tracks and no more hassle believe me I've tried it all timing after rain is also a thing to consider
My experience from using a pasture harrow behind a tractor to groom driveways is that, if the implement is heavy enough, it is better to drag it behind me with a chain so it floats over the surface e and finds its own level, rather than having it rigidly attached to a 3 point linkage
Drive is too packed, land planes are for a more loose substrate, like gravel. You would be better off to rip that driveway up with a cultivator or finish tool then plane it down. I suggest putting a drag skid along the bottom and make the sides taller than the blades so it dont spill out the sides.
When he said, “as you can see, I have my safety shorts on”, that’s when I subbed.
I am no professional but, I would have to say the issue with the rocks is that a land planer is a finishing tool. You are dragging into a surface that isn't a finished product. The size of rocks popping up are ones you would have a foot down. The top layer should be a gravel consistency for the plane to work as advertised. An easier way to look at it. A plane is a butter knife, meant for smoothing and leveling smooth aggregate.
I built one just like that and it took patience then it was smooth.
Nice project
Think of it operating as a wood plane the high spots will cause a lot of drag and you only want to take a little at a time setting the top link to help control pressure on the front and back, and the side rails may need to be a little wider to help them to float so that you are only working the area inside the box, the length of the box helps to smooth the high and lows verses just a blade thay you have to keep feathering the 3 point up and down to get things smooth, all in all I thought it was working pretty good after watching some of the other videos of land plane that were commercial built.
All that is wrong with your set-up is that the ground is too wet...other than that -pretty AWESOME, Brother!!
Teeth on the front blade (railroad spike works good).
Angle the middle blade more to let more material flow over.
Also attach an expanded metal to the top/behind the middle blade to catch rocks.
More weight in the back and adjust the top center link.
oh the expanded metal is a good idea. I have a problem with waves in my airstrip, not ruts. Ive only been using a drag harrow. Need to make a long narrow drag box i think or use an old axle assembly for some rear wheels back on a pole, I would thing something 12-16' feet long is required to really get the bumps out, Ill be pulling it with a 4-wheeler.
I know your post is old but this is a great idea. Thinking maybe some 6" angle iron on top of the expanded at an angle to vibrate the rocks to one side. Thank you for that tip.
Nice job , Once it dries a bit you'll be fine.
It'll work better when things dry out, excellent build though.
Dry gravel is best.
Looked like it was doing a good job filling in the ruts.
No scarifiers. You need to break apart the compacted road surface before leveling it.
I was just thinking that...
considering chopping teeth into the first blade
Great job, Idaho
Really need a box blade with tines. The tines will pull up rocks and gravel back to the surface as the ground is being planed with the box blade.
If nothing else, it's an effective rock finder.
I think you need some cutting teeth on her (weld on some 1/2-3/4" bolts) , and also maybe 150-200LBS of weight.
ill try weight first, it easier hehe
@@REDNIC79 I agree lol, start with the easy fix / test first
Road needs a crown for sure. Need to drag a little off the side of the road to bring material back into the tracks. That material will displace the water. Wet roads are tough to grade as the next vehicle is going to leave ruts.
I would add some 3/8” flat bar to the bottom of the sides as skids
Either way you do your road, you have to make a crown so water runs off the side.
5:38 wet is good. you may need some weight in the back so the smoother blade doesn't bounce so much
Hi :) Some weight for the last Blade could help a little. It would also be super interesting to see what happens when you turn it around so that 2 Blades are flattening the surface.
I'll give it a try
Not bad at least you tried live and learn make it better good start
You have to have rear end down pressure As you pull it will naturally put more pressure on the front
Good luck!!
@6;18 looks like you found a dinosaur egg in your lane Good job Nic
Your cutting blade should be about an inch proud in relation to the sides. It would improve how it cuts.
its'to wet 'good job on making the scraper drain som water off till you get it dryer ;it works good good job buddy'
Do you have an update on the Land Plane?
I was thinking of using Angle, instead of flat bar, flat bar stock isn’t as strong.
Definitely needs some form of ground breaking at the front of the plane and a flattening blade at the rear to smooth things rather than "scrape" them. I'm saying this for two reasons (each to their respective problem).
1. the plane lacks the operational weight to pull the job in one pass, neither can the machine take the abuse, so simpler to tooth it.
2. i saw a lot of the ground that was scraped go over, and then just fall flat. If you'd add a flat surface that "sucks" up the scraped ground, it would work a lot nice.
If it were my project, and only then, i'd probably do something like this instead of point 2: weld 3 chain lengths, one center, two at the ends, and add a piece of scrap tubing (square, preferably) filled with concrete to them. The tubing would float independently up and down over the uprooted ground and the weight of the concrete would make it sit on the ground. But that's just me, i'd understand if others would be reticent in doing something like that since it's a considerable investment.
I used a land plane years ago to level a new hay field. The one I used was about 20 feet long, with a single blade in the middle. It needs to be long to bridge the low spots and shave off the high spots. The dirt would collect quite a bit in front of the blade, but drop out to fill in low spots. It needed to flex to follow the ground contors and shave off the high spots. I think yours would work better if it was dry, but I think it's attatced too solid on those forks and can't flex? Just my guess. Try just dragging it with a chain.
Ok, ill get it to float more. Thanks!
@@REDNIC79 It looks like it should work. I bet if the ground was dry, it would be better too.
Good stuff, Thanks
I have some experience running a road grader and in building my own implements. You have a good idea, but I think that it is a little wet. Also, if you could figure out a way of setting the digging angle of the blades and turn them up a little higher, it might not bring as many rocks up. Maybe make them bolt on and have a couple different holes to change the angle. I built my own box scraper and I prefer it to a land plane, but that's just my personal opinion.
when you say change the blade angle do you mean more flat to the ground , or more vertical?
@@REDNIC79 More vertical. It might help a little depending on conditions. I would make it adjustable for sure though.
I am thinking of making one. I think you need some play in the top link so it will let the back follow the ground. Like what a bush hog has it lets the mower move to the contours. With yours maybe if the back cross angles were just a couple inches higher it would still lift with the forks but let it drop some in use?
I agree. The top link should be chain or have a section of chain instead of traditional threaded fixed top link. The chain link should be loose when setting it up on level ground but still short enough to lift the rear of the land plane with the 3pt lift. This will allow the land leveler to stay in contact with the ground when the tractor rides over a high spot. This is a relatively inexpensive change. You should also consider a method to add some weight to you land leveler. Otherwise, well done.
Hi
I'm not a farmer but I only have suggestions
1 suspend the drag unit below the forks by brackets or chains or brackets front with chains at the rear
2 Add a platform at the rear for adding weights or cinder blocks so the leveler blade is no lifted up as the scraper blades ride up and over the big rocks
3 Plus as an addition; what if you integrated something designed similar to a Front End Loader ROCK BUCKET that collected the large rocks as You go along. Then dump them between passes. Those rocks will add down forces at the rear leveler blade
These are only suggestions since watching your video I saw the whole assembly lifting off the ground in a parallel motion instead of allowing the leveler blade to remain on the ground
Ken in Florida
Your designed basically worked very well, it appears too Me that it is too dependent on the fork assembly and it rises & falls as a unit
Flexibility of the front portion too the rear might help it be more efficient
Ok what you need is some side tilt to dig into edges about 15 degrees make passes each side bringing road base to center of drive way forming a crown the drains water to both sides help maintain surface shape those 3 point rear hitch can be tilted ajusted its not to wet its better once the side drainage is formed once you have got both sides to depth make a few passes with blade at level position if your tyresxare leaving wheel indentations trails get off it let it dry out if its holding weight keep driving to compact the surface when it drys out it will be like concrete hard
Probably need to adjust your top link so the front blades cut a little less, and remember water and dirt makes mud.
No need for anything fancy just lengthen your top link to get that tail side down
suggestions... is the blade needs to push the soil from left to right / so soil fillis the hollows
Make top bar on three point hitch longer 🤠
Do you have plans to build one?
Try some big rock s on the back for weight Dry will help also Weight on back will help level
Lol safety shorts. Im in the right spot.
Take some excavator tracks and pull that no hassle no cutting teeth it will end up snotty and you will pay a month down the line the trick is conformity in hardness ...and for the smart ases not compaction just get old tracks and no more hassle believe me I've tried it all timing after rain is also a thing to consider
draw bar scew it out more put more down pressure on the back to level it more and it needs more weight to push everything down
perhaps undo the top link when ready to start
Turn your top link and it will flatten out the back and work better
It's to wet , after 2 to 4 days with out rain give it another try , you should get better results.
Your videoo is awesome. Subscribing before 15000 subs :D
Chain link fence with weight on top
Is it the camera that makes everything look bent?🤔
Probably do better if it was dragged, tractor going up and down in front may effect the drag as its locked into forks... Just my two cents worth
Why is there only one chain on the tractor?
My experience from using a pasture harrow behind a tractor to groom driveways is that, if the implement is heavy enough, it is better to drag it behind me with a chain so it floats over the surface e and finds its own level, rather than having it rigidly attached to a 3 point linkage
You need gravel on that road
Drive is too packed, land planes are for a more loose substrate, like gravel. You would be better off to rip that driveway up with a cultivator or finish tool then plane it down. I suggest putting a drag skid along the bottom and make the sides taller than the blades so it dont spill out the sides.
Your'er not supposed to grade mud! It appears that it will work if the dirt was dry.
Weight is your friend
Maybe add a couple pieces of angel at the top so as to make a holder and put some weight (few sand bags maybe) in it...