Ok I’m hooked. Need to watch this and practice multiple times. Bought my first 196 a couple weeks ago. Your demonstration of practical uses is clear and easy to understand. Thank you Sir...
I have a really old 196 in a wooden box with a sliding lid. Had to make the rod with the ball on the end. Still works great after many decades of use, abuse, and disuse. I have heard it said that the cross hole in the rods is only for loosening, not for tightening. In any event, don't crank it down hard...
Thank you! I picked an older one of these sets (wooden box) but is exactly the same. I don't have a manual for it so I was only using indicator so you really expanded my capability with it. Thank you again.
I used to have an Ames set up very similar to this one. I used it to set up the back-lash on rear differentials. The C clamp worked great to attach the set-up to the gasket flange. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the lesson Stan, like Bruce, I have never seen that roller attachment, and thanks for the demo of the squareness comparator, I had never considered that ball being more than decorative, thanks and cheers!
Now that it's 2023 and ole Bear picked up 2 complete 196 sets July 1st, I now have more insight as to all the attachements uses. Ater watching Steve Summers a use a 196 on checking tram of his shaper's head to bed, had to own one. thx Stan for going throough more uses than i thought possible. Bear. Happy 4th 2023.
i have used one of these for over forty years, good demo stan. this is my go to indicator for tramming mill heads and vises. my kit was missing the little thread adapter and up until now i didn't know what was missing.
Thanks Stan. I have one in a wooden box I bought with several other things. I really appreciate you taking the time to show me what all the bits are for. Norm in AZ
Thanks for going over that with us Stan! Funny thing I was saying to myself I have a kit like this on my fridge, and sure enough....LOL! It seems I have a few more bit and pieces to mine. I guess I'll have to bring it to the Bash for futher instructions..🤔
FYI per Starrett this type of indicator can NOT be calibrated for linearity. It can only be calibrated for repeatability. In other words you can NOT accurately measure distances with it. It is great however for things like tramming or centering stock in a lathe or on a mill.
I carry 2 #196 sets, they are super rugged for field work like gear lash measurement and thrust/endplay meas. I also use them with chain bases for coupling alignment. They are very versatile.Never seen the squareness setup before though, thanks Stan
Great video...! Thanks... Just one comment to make. You made a big deal about how hard it would be to 'zero' out the 196 indicator. Even stating that Starrett must have used 2 revolutions of the dial to accomplish the task. However, you never pointed out all you need to do is turn the top of the dial until it reads 'zero' . The ideal would be to set the dial close enough to the part to measure so that it will indicate about one revolution on the dial, then zero it out. That way you would have a complete +/- one revolution or +/- 0.100" to measure runout. If you had to have just one dial indicator, the Starrett 196 universal kit is the one to have. It can do about 99% of whatever you ask of it.
Very cool! My 196 was a bonus I got in a $20 box of brass scraps and model steam leftovers... I seem to recall seeing the collar you showed for thread adapter somewhere, will need to go digging and see if I can find it again
i just saw a kit just like that one on e-bay but it wasn't in as good a shape as that kit , thx for showing all the different uses for that i really like the way that indicator trams a mill head !!
Hi Stan, where these 196's really shine is for electric motor to pump alignment that most millwrights have to do for new construction or maintenance in industrial plants. the little test indicators are to delicate and the larger 1'' travel indicators are to big and unwieldy to be effective. Thanks for your videos!
I have had trouble with indicator droop with the heavy spring pressures and larger indicators, although you can calculate the droop out of the equation, it never remains a constant, my go to for horizontal sweeps is a short noga arm, lightweight DTI and light indicator stylus pressure.
I'm thankful for this video. I just fot one like this in a lot of starrett tools. Know how rest of it works just was not sure of this one and didn't know the number for it.
Love my Starrett 196's. My intention was not to corner the market, but through a series of trades, I've had as many as 7, and I'm at 6. Still have a few tools to thin out and make room for my CDO 🤠 CHEERS BOYS
thanks for sharing your tip nik. here’s my t’pence worth... without taking the back off, just run a couple of drops of car door oil on to the sprung (but stiff) shaft. gently press the point a few times then add a couple more drops to either end. no idea what it’s made of but it’s very thin and the small bottle has a fine spout so it’s easy to dispense. the brand i found at my local DIY shop in the netherlands is called sonax ‘deurslot ontdooier’ i’m sure there’s something similar in the states.
i have a Really old version of this tool that my Grandfather had... its in a wooden box-jointed case with the top panel piece you slide to open it up. it woudl be cool to figure out a way to use it as like a flatness inspection tool for finding the differences in the height of a long flat bit of work just on a work bench. i figure if i could use it this way, i could save myself some money, while also using an old tool, thats been in the family at least i would say since the 40s or 50s... i have no idea of its exact age though...
I wonder if they made much longer 'teeter totters', so it could be used for things like checking morse taper sockets? Seems like a device that might be within reach of a careful homegamer, for measuring and maybe even construction.
Thank you for the demonstration. My Grandpa passed away couple months ago and he inherited me several Starrett measuring equipment, and I was searching for what piece I was missing in one of the kits. Fk you covid, I realy miss that funny grumpy man. Cheers.
nice roller tip, great for adjusting valve tappets (NOT real size, just for model steam making, or model pumps, etc)- you could definately do accurate valve clearences with this!!
at 16:39 this setup is also fantastic to align a grinding spindle to a lathe, ie: grinding on the lathe, or cutting a taper on the compound slide, also alligning a boring bar, on a hole to be cut;replace the bar with the indicator, also makes a great way of setting up a 4-jaw chuck, put this on the boring bar tool holder, and indicate on the part, on the jaws too, if you want to equilize the stick out of the jaws. and as a measure of slide backlash, turn the dial to zero, and move the slide until you get a reading on the indicator, is it the same as the slide's dial?
Just picked up a bunch of old school stuff and your video assisted me in matching up two partial kits...no boxes unfortunately. Only have one button head in total.. no others. Would like to clean up and make complete.
Do you know what the rod thread is? I feel its a 27 but the diameters what i have trouble with. I would like to made different size rods for doing motor alignment.
when i bought my 196 it had a small white tubular plastic sleeve that was located on the plunger shaft betwwen the back of the indicator and the button. it prevented the plunger from moving. when you put the indicator back into the case the spring was not under compression. i wonder if Starrett included that plastic tube or if the guy that sold it to me made it ? thank you you for the video Stan.
Starrett puts those plastic sleeves on there from the factory. I don't use my indicator often, so I keep that sleeve on there to help protect it. I'm sure it doesn't need it, but it doesn't hurt anything being there.
Ok I’m hooked. Need to watch this and practice multiple times. Bought my first 196 a couple weeks ago. Your demonstration of practical uses is clear and easy to understand. Thank you Sir...
Thank you! I've had one of these for years and now understand to dramatically increase it's utility!
I'm in the same boat. I have a set missing some of the pieces. My crystal needed replacing, so I searched. I didn't even know the model number.
I have a really old 196 in a wooden box with a sliding lid. Had to make the rod with the ball on the end. Still works great after many decades of use, abuse, and disuse. I have heard it said that the cross hole in the rods is only for loosening, not for tightening. In any event, don't crank it down hard...
Thank you! I picked an older one of these sets (wooden box) but is exactly the same. I don't have a manual for it so I was only using indicator so you really expanded my capability with it. Thank you again.
I used to have an Ames set up very similar to this one. I used it to set up the back-lash on rear differentials. The C clamp worked great to attach the set-up to the gasket flange. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the lesson Stan, like Bruce, I have never seen that roller attachment, and thanks for the demo of the squareness comparator, I had never considered that ball being more than decorative, thanks and cheers!
Its no fun to set up, but it can get you by in a pinch.
what a wealth of knowledge. I appreciate your ability to entertain while teaching. Thank you
I bought this same kit yesterday, and now I know what all the accessories are for, THANK YOU
Never seen that roller part Stan thanks for showing it!
Thank you for this tutorial. I own a wood box set that was included with a mill. I knew a few bits, guessed a few others, and you showed me the rest.
Fantastic. Just brilliant explanation for the attachments and arms.
Now that it's 2023 and ole Bear picked up 2 complete 196 sets July 1st, I now have more insight as to all the attachements uses. Ater watching Steve Summers a use a 196 on checking tram of his shaper's head to bed, had to own one. thx Stan for going throough more uses than i thought possible. Bear. Happy 4th 2023.
i have used one of these for over forty years, good demo stan. this is my go to indicator for tramming mill heads and vises. my kit was missing the little thread adapter and up until now i didn't know what was missing.
Great lecture. Thank you for your painstaking work more grease to your elbow. I have gained a lot from your video. Thank you.
Thanks Stan. I have one in a wooden box I bought with several other things. I really appreciate you taking the time to show me what all the bits are for.
Norm in AZ
Thank you, Stan. It's a very good lesson.
Thanks as always Stan. I was just gifted one of those and you gave me several ideas on how I will put it to use in my shop. Gilles
Thanks for the lesson, I'm not an machinist but this is damn cool!
Thanks for going over that with us Stan!
Funny thing I was saying to myself I have a kit like this on my fridge, and sure enough....LOL!
It seems I have a few more bit and pieces to mine. I guess I'll have to bring it to the Bash for futher instructions..🤔
Thanks for teaching me. I have picked up a few of these over the years but my imagination was obviously very limited... Until now. Thanks again.
Another very good video, Stan.
Cheers, Gary
FYI per Starrett this type of indicator can NOT be calibrated for linearity. It can only be calibrated for repeatability. In other words you can NOT accurately measure distances with it. It is great however for things like tramming or centering stock in a lathe or on a mill.
I carry 2 #196 sets, they are super rugged for field work like gear lash measurement and thrust/endplay meas. I also use them with chain bases for coupling alignment. They are very versatile.Never seen the squareness setup before though, thanks Stan
Yes
I am rotating equipment mechanic
Good for internal tapers.
With the clamp mount, less indicator droop.
Good stuff.
Thanks,
John
Great video...! Thanks... Just one comment to make. You made a big deal about how hard it would be to 'zero' out the 196 indicator. Even stating that Starrett must have used 2 revolutions of the dial to accomplish the task. However, you never pointed out all you need to do is turn the top of the dial until it reads 'zero' . The ideal would be to set the dial close enough to the part to measure so that it will indicate about one revolution on the dial, then zero it out. That way you would have a complete +/- one revolution or +/- 0.100" to measure runout. If you had to have just one dial indicator, the Starrett 196 universal kit is the one to have. It can do about 99% of whatever you ask of it.
Stan, thanks for a good intro. I just purchased one of these sets and was looking for some info.
Very cool! My 196 was a bonus I got in a $20 box of brass scraps and model steam leftovers... I seem to recall seeing the collar you showed for thread adapter somewhere, will need to go digging and see if I can find it again
Great video, much obliged!
Nice! I have one of these kits that I inherited from my dad and didn't know what some of the parts were for.
just seagulled a 196f hole adaptor....didn’t understand the setup....great discussion/demonstration.....Merry Christmas
I have used the ball for a squareness comparator with a surface gage, never on a 196, the thought never occurred to me. Thanks Stan.
i just saw a kit just like that one on e-bay but it wasn't in as good a shape as that kit , thx for showing all the different uses for that i really like the way that indicator trams a mill head !!
great video
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Hi Stan, I can tell by the case that that is an older Starret. Made back in the days when quality was most important.
Steve
I have a couple of these sets and really like them.
Hi Stan, where these 196's really shine is for electric motor to pump alignment that most millwrights have to do for new construction or maintenance in industrial plants. the little test indicators are to delicate and the larger 1'' travel indicators are to big and unwieldy to be effective. Thanks for your videos!
I have had trouble with indicator droop with the heavy spring pressures and larger indicators, although you can calculate the droop out of the equation, it never remains a constant, my go to for horizontal sweeps is a short noga arm, lightweight DTI and light indicator stylus pressure.
Great video
Always wondered on these attachments, thanks!
Great video, thanks a lot...
I'm thankful for this video. I just fot one like this in a lot of starrett tools. Know how rest of it works just was not sure of this one and didn't know the number for it.
Love my Starrett 196's. My intention was not to corner the market, but through a series of trades, I've had as many as 7, and I'm at 6. Still have a few tools to thin out and make room for my CDO 🤠
CHEERS BOYS
Thanks for the informational video, you are are good speaker and teacher. I will subscribe to your channel.
thanks for sharing your tip nik.
here’s my t’pence worth...
without taking the back off, just run a couple of drops of car door oil on to the sprung (but stiff) shaft. gently press the point a few times then add a couple more drops to either end. no idea what it’s made of but it’s very thin and the small bottle has a fine spout so it’s easy to dispense.
the brand i found at my local DIY shop in the netherlands is called sonax ‘deurslot ontdooier’ i’m sure there’s something similar in the states.
Enjoyed Stan, good demo!
ATB, Robin
Nice,it's so much more rugged than the tiny arm and ball I have.
I was always wondering what that ball on the end of the longer rod was for......mystery solved....thanks Stan.
i have a Really old version of this tool that my Grandfather had... its in a wooden box-jointed case with the top panel piece you slide to open it up. it woudl be cool to figure out a way to use it as like a flatness inspection tool for finding the differences in the height of a long flat bit of work just on a work bench. i figure if i could use it this way, i could save myself some money, while also using an old tool, thats been in the family at least i would say since the 40s or 50s... i have no idea of its exact age though...
I wonder if they made much longer 'teeter totters', so it could be used for things like checking morse taper sockets? Seems like a device that might be within reach of a careful homegamer, for measuring and maybe even construction.
Neat indicator (from a few years ago)
Thank you for the demonstration. My Grandpa passed away couple months ago and he inherited me several Starrett measuring equipment, and I was searching for what piece I was missing in one of the kits.
Fk you covid, I realy miss that funny grumpy man.
Cheers.
nice roller tip, great for adjusting valve tappets (NOT real size, just for model steam making, or model pumps, etc)- you could definately do accurate valve clearences with this!!
McMaster-Carr lists the contact tip thread size as 0.127-60.
at 16:39 this setup is also fantastic to align a grinding spindle to a lathe, ie: grinding on the lathe, or cutting a taper on the compound slide, also alligning a boring bar, on a hole to be cut;replace the bar with the indicator, also makes a great way of setting up a 4-jaw chuck, put this on the boring bar tool holder, and indicate on the part, on the jaws too, if you want to equilize the stick out of the jaws. and as a measure of slide backlash, turn the dial to zero, and move the slide until you get a reading on the indicator, is it the same as the slide's dial?
Just picked up a bunch of old school stuff and your video assisted me in matching up two partial kits...no boxes unfortunately. Only have one button head in total.. no others. Would like to clean up and make complete.
good lesson Stan. these low cost super-duper hydraulic slip. 196 $$$ on xbay.
according to my K&E Log Log Deci Trig the angle is about 11.5.
Do you know what the rod thread is? I feel its a 27 but the diameters what i have trouble with. I would like to made different size rods for doing motor alignment.
Could this be usefull for checking brass for reloading?
I'm not sure, what do you need to check?
@@ShadonHKW run out on cartrige neck (centricity i think its called) case wall thickness
@@r1ckgr1m3s8 Concentricity yes, wall thickness, no.
@@ShadonHKW thanks for the input.
when i bought my 196 it had a small white tubular plastic sleeve that was located on the plunger shaft betwwen the back of the indicator and the button. it prevented the plunger from moving. when you put the indicator back into the case the spring was not under compression. i wonder if Starrett included that plastic tube or if the guy that sold it to me made it ? thank you you for the video Stan.
Starrett puts those plastic sleeves on there from the factory. I don't use my indicator often, so I keep that sleeve on there to help protect it. I'm sure it doesn't need it, but it doesn't hurt anything being there.
I just got myself a Baty Back plunger Dial gauge, lovely video could you please share your fB and Insta page please
vintage......ha