maybe you can help me. I replaced 6 batteries in my ez go 36 v cart. It will go sometimes if it is going and I let off on the acceleration it stops any idea what this can be?
One problem with checking the solenoid like that is that it may not work under a load and test just fine as you did. If placed under a load the contacts may not support current flow. The best way to do it is place a high current device on the secondary side and see if it supports the current flow after you energize the primary side. I have found some that tested good as you have but did not support current flow once a load was placed on it.
dont take my word on this but ive been there with my westwood ride on mower. wouldnt start with the key but would jump by shorting the solenoid. i replaced the solenoid,checked the key ignition switch all were fine and i eventually traced it down to the footbrake switch.my solenoid was a four post too and i believe the two small posts are ground/earth (black ) and (red) ignition power. not certain what the orange is for maybe lights or something. check safety switches brake and seat.
I'm trying to get my commercial lawn mower to start. I just bought a new solenoid and ignition key switch. Its a four post solenoid and the mower has some safety switches that have to be on to start. I know the starter is good because its new and the motor starts/runs when tripped with screw driver. There is two large power wires and 3 small wires. Small wires are blac k, red, and orange. No power to small posts when i turn the key. Should I? Small red wire on the large battery post. Any ideas?
On riding lawn mower, touch the selonoid with your thumb & index finger. Turn key if it clicks and the starter wont turn it's your selonoid. Note: the two post if one has a green residue on the tip that post is not making contact inside. Grind off the four rivets open gently and clean the residue on the nut at both ends with sand paper and put back togethere, replace rivets with small screws and your selonoid is fixed. I checked all over the internet to troubleshoot my selonoid & could'nt find anybody with any tips, everybody is telling you to buy all kinds of meters. After I purchased a new selonoid and installed it. I took the old one apart & it's very easy to fix. NOTE: I noticed that the bottom nut on the pole with residue was about 1/16 loose making bad to no contact.
what would cause this to melt ? i was using my plow and this solenoid melted it is a tower type solenoid . do i have a short and if soo how to i find it and where do i start >
Does it matter which way the current flows across a solenoid? I am installing one in an outboard motor and not sure which cables should hook up to which bolts (I know the small wires go on the small and big on big)
I can't tell where yellow/red wire is hooked to and the black wire. If solenoid is 48 volt do you put 48 volts to small terminals to check continuity on big terminals? Thank you!
I have a 2007 EZ Go electric golf cart. I purchased new batteries last year with a service. This year, the cart starting jumping when put in F and R. Now, the cart won't move and the solenoid just clicks loudly in both F or R when I press the accelerator. Is the the solenoid? Something else? I don't want to have to load the cart and take to dealer. ???
Roy Miller maybe the accelerator switch. Normally electric golf carts have a throttle sensor that sends Signal to a module that then sends Signal to the motor. Ours normally does it after it gets wet, soaked, or high humidity under the cart.
Thanks for the video - the problem I am having is ... my 36 volt EZ-GO has forward and reverse - and the in both "directions" it goes FULL SPEED ! there is no progressive acceleration. any idea what that might be? thanks much !
Our yamaha golf cart is doing the same thing it goes full throttle when i just touch the pedal its all 36 volts. Did you get yours figured out? Please respond.
it's maybe to simple lol, I tested between both small terminals and got nothing no beep, but the truck started the next day would not start so I guess u right but if coil ain't show resistance of continuity but started the truck at least for moment
Perfect? The second test did not explain where any of the wires were hooked to. All it showed was four wires going from the solenoid and for all we know the wires ran down the road and back and he just made the multimeter beep because he likes the sound.
OK. I will try. The larger terminals are meant for the battery connection and the starter connection.The two smaller posts are signal wires. On a three post system the forth will not be needed. How to decide that? The S I from a fender mounted installation provides 12 volts to the solenoid . It is the wire that controls the ignition circuit and in series with the neutral safety switch or switches that guard the transmission from lurching. In order to isolate that. Hook the positive from the DMM to S 1 than to the negative battery post with the black connection. Go and turn the ignition to on and then to ign./ on crank; there should be 12 V there. If less, such as, 4.5 vdc you are likely to have a blown fuse. With no voltage the PCM relay in the engine fuse compartment outside the cab may be in suspect. From there neutral safety switch if this is a a manual transmission. Should it be an automatic the DTR or digital transmission relay located at the transmission can be suspect. Then the ignition switch. Then the security system .Then the Key cylinder or key itself. Otherwise if there is 12 volts there and it does not crank. Try the other post on a four wire solenoid. The fourth post is an auxiliary circuit meant for add on's,caution there. If it still does not crank. The problem remains on the starter side of the circuit Wires and Connection,then for less than 12.6 volts. Battery if it fails a load test or is below 12.2 -12.4 volts. Good luck. Remember this video is a bench test which explains the function of the part not the wiring. Hope this helps and your not hung out. Be patient and isolate the problem. Even if your under fire. You will succeed.
It is not a solenoid but a relay which is a switch energised by a coil so even if the coil is good the contacts could be bad. Sometimes relays stick closed.
you heard it click right? that's the solenoid inside of this relay. the gm one is a relay too. ford just calls it a relay gm always calls it a solenoid. the ford one doesn't get hot because it's not mounted on the starter/ engine. the gm one also activates the starter drive.
i own a 02 dodge caravan 3.3 V6.. it turn but won't start it makes a tinking sound like a dead battery.. my battery good alternator GOOD... I knw its not them... im lookn at my starter or solenoid... how can I tell if it's my starter or solenoid..?
Michael Freeman I have a Honda gold wing 1200 86 I put a new, solenoid and it works good for about 3 days and now it just dim the lights when I hit the button but it won't crank can you please help
Anyone have any insight into the error code f040090?? Im trouble shooting these carts for the first time. Voltage on batteries is good charger is good. Idk where to go from here
To perform these test does the solenoid need to be unwired and separated from the starter? Thanks My solenoid clicks when keyed but high amperage only to one side and no start!! Anyone??
You can try gently tapping on the starter I’ve tested starters off of the vehicle as well using a set of jumper cables first use your ground cable and clamp it onto one of the ears on starter using a small jumper wire clamp it to your solenoid (small connection to post on solenoid) then clamp the large post with the positive jumper cable end I also use the vehicle battery for the power supply for testing using the other end of your vehicle jumper cables clamp the ground side of the battery with the ground jumper cable at this point either have an assistant hold starter motor or put in a vice double check connections then tap positive side of the battery with positive end of jumper cable. If it (bendix) kicks out but the bendix doesn’t spin it’s the starter motor
when I turn the key I get a tick from solenoid...and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick and turn the key and car starts up....do you think it is the solenoid? or starter motor
very poor description for example why did you not explain the type of power you used to charge the solenoid and for terminals what if both working but one side not passing good charge ut still beeps and last back up the camera to see more connections ,eans zoom in and out
a year old comment that's too dumb to ignore lol, if u have 4 solenoids in a winch, should u just replace them all instead of taking 2 minutes to check which one it is??
it's maybe to simple lol, I tested between both small terminals and got nothing no beep, but the truck started the next day would not start so I guess u right but if coil ain't show resistance of continuity but started the truck at least for moment
Clear, concise - well done and thanks!
what were those wires at the end connected too?
Clear and easy troubleshooting tips. THANKS!
🎉gtg thanks b🎉
I have the exact same bike, and I need change the solenoid in mine as well. where do I find the solenoied?? under the carbs??
maybe you can help me. I replaced 6 batteries in my ez go 36 v cart. It will go sometimes if it is going and I let off on the acceleration it stops any idea what this can be?
I have an electric golf cart. when I push the gas it wants to go but it seems like it has resistance the rear engine shakes
One problem with checking the solenoid like that is that it may not work under a load and test just fine as you did. If placed under a load the contacts may not support current flow. The best way to do it is place a high current device on the secondary side and see if it supports the current flow after you energize the primary side. I have found some that tested good as you have but did not support current flow once a load was placed on it.
Agreed can't tell you how many times I've had relays which acted the same way
dont take my word on this but ive been there with my westwood ride on mower. wouldnt start with the key but would jump by shorting the solenoid.
i replaced the solenoid,checked the key ignition switch all were fine and i eventually traced it down to the footbrake switch.my solenoid was a four post too and i believe the two small posts are ground/earth (black ) and (red) ignition power. not certain what the orange is for maybe lights or something. check safety switches brake and seat.
I'm trying to get my commercial lawn mower to start. I just bought a new solenoid and ignition key switch. Its a four post solenoid and the mower has some safety switches that have to be on to start. I know the starter is good because its new and the motor starts/runs when tripped with screw driver. There is two large power wires and 3 small wires. Small wires are blac k, red, and orange. No power to small posts when i turn the key. Should I? Small red wire on the large battery post. Any ideas?
This is a perfect video. Thanks.
I have a craftsman 17.5 riding lawn mower. the blades will not disengage when the lever in in the disengage area
Need to be checking with ohms (resistance) you're coil can show continuity and still be bad
Sheesh!! About time a easy video to test a solenoid
So if using ohms to test the small ones it should read 0. What if it reads a number?
On riding lawn mower, touch the selonoid with your thumb & index finger. Turn key if it clicks and the starter wont turn it's your selonoid. Note: the two post if one has a green residue on the tip that post is not making contact inside. Grind off the four rivets open gently and clean the residue on the nut at both ends with sand paper and put back togethere, replace rivets with small screws and your selonoid is fixed.
I checked all over the internet to troubleshoot my selonoid & could'nt find anybody with any tips, everybody is telling you to buy all kinds of meters. After I purchased a new selonoid and installed it. I took the old one apart & it's very easy to fix. NOTE: I noticed that the bottom nut on the pole with residue was about 1/16 loose making bad to no contact.
I have a version for marine operations, the corosion may be very quick to take in such an environment
what would cause this to melt ? i was using my plow and this solenoid melted it is a tower type solenoid . do i have a short and if soo how to i find it and where do i start >
Scott, that is true; the best way to test it would be to energize it with a high amperage load and perform a voltage drop test across the terminals.
2007 fuel blaster 500 mL starting tilt sensor
Great job, well expained.
thank you, good video and explanation
Cheers for the video this helped me out in college
Tidy clear presentation thanks
Does it matter which way the current flows across a solenoid? I am
installing one in an outboard motor and not sure which cables should
hook up to which bolts (I know the small wires go on the small and big
on big)
no its not polarized
You don’t state what voltage you are energizing the solenoid with. I see 2 wires going to the small posts but no idea what you’re sourcing them to?
I can't tell where yellow/red wire is hooked to and the black wire. If solenoid is 48 volt do you put 48 volts to small terminals to check continuity on big terminals? Thank you!
Good video. One thing though you can have continuity when you have a SHORTED coil. And the solenoid won't work.
In that case a voltage drop test across the '+battery' solenoid post and the 'to starter motor' post would be the best test, yes?
I have a 2007 EZ Go electric golf cart. I purchased new batteries last year with a service. This year, the cart starting jumping when put in F and R. Now, the cart won't move and the solenoid just clicks loudly in both F or R when I press the accelerator. Is the the solenoid? Something else? I don't want to have to load the cart and take to dealer. ???
Roy Miller did you figure out what was wrong with your Cart mine is doing the exact same thing
Roy Miller maybe the accelerator switch. Normally electric golf carts have a throttle sensor that sends Signal to a module that then sends Signal to the motor. Ours normally does it after it gets wet, soaked, or high humidity under the cart.
Thanks for the video - the problem I am having is ... my 36 volt EZ-GO has forward and reverse - and the in both "directions" it goes FULL SPEED ! there is no progressive acceleration. any idea what that might be? thanks much !
GD Tractor your throttle input.
Our yamaha golf cart is doing the same thing it goes full throttle when i just touch the pedal its all 36 volts. Did you get yours figured out? Please respond.
it's maybe to simple lol, I tested between both small terminals and got nothing no beep, but the truck started the next day would not start so I guess u right but if coil ain't show resistance of continuity but started the truck at least for moment
If there's no clicking sound or any noise at all ..?
Could it be solenoid?
I ain't get continuity between s and the I terminal but somehow the truck started
perfect explanation of how to do it text book, with no doubt.
Perfect? The second test did not explain where any of the wires were hooked to. All it showed was four wires going from the solenoid and for all we know the wires ran down the road and back and he just made the multimeter beep because he likes the sound.
OK. I will try. The larger terminals are meant for the battery connection and the starter connection.The two smaller posts are signal wires. On a three post system the forth will not be needed. How to decide that? The S I from a fender mounted installation provides 12 volts to the solenoid . It is the wire that controls the ignition circuit and in series with the neutral safety switch or switches that guard the transmission from lurching.
In order to isolate that. Hook the positive from the DMM to S 1 than to the negative battery post with the black connection. Go and turn the ignition to on and then to ign./ on crank; there should be 12 V there. If less, such as, 4.5 vdc you are likely to have a blown fuse. With no voltage the PCM relay in the engine fuse compartment outside the cab may be in suspect. From there neutral safety switch if this is a a manual transmission. Should it be an automatic the DTR or digital transmission relay located at the transmission can be suspect. Then the ignition switch. Then the security system .Then the Key cylinder or key itself.
Otherwise if there is 12 volts there and it does not crank. Try the other post on a four wire solenoid. The fourth post is an auxiliary circuit meant for add on's,caution there. If it still does not crank. The problem remains on the starter side of the circuit Wires and Connection,then for less than 12.6 volts. Battery if it fails a load test or is below 12.2 -12.4 volts. Good luck.
Remember this video is a bench test which explains the function of the part not the wiring. Hope this helps and your not hung out. Be patient and isolate the problem. Even if your under fire. You will succeed.
It is not a solenoid but a relay which is a switch energised by a coil so even if the coil is good the contacts could be bad. Sometimes relays stick closed.
you heard it click right? that's the solenoid inside of this relay. the gm one is a relay too. ford just calls it a relay gm always calls it a solenoid. the ford one doesn't get hot because it's not mounted on the starter/ engine. the gm one also activates the starter drive.
i own a 02 dodge caravan 3.3 V6.. it turn but won't start it makes a tinking sound like a dead battery.. my battery good alternator GOOD... I knw its not them... im lookn at my starter or solenoid... how can I tell if it's my starter or solenoid..?
Michael Freeman I have a Honda gold wing 1200 86 I put a new, solenoid and it works good for about 3 days and now it just dim the lights when I hit the button but it won't crank can you please help
thank you i found the fault using your vid
For a training program you failed to mention how you're energizing the solenoid. What did you use?
Wiring for fleet wood Chevy motor home auxiliary start
Unloaded test on the high current side does not mean it can carry a load. Just proves the control side works.
U didnt sho the power applied on the small terminals to activate bridge the big terminals
Anyone have any insight into the error code f040090?? Im trouble shooting these carts for the first time. Voltage on batteries is good charger is good. Idk where to go from here
To perform these test does the solenoid need to be unwired and separated from the starter? Thanks My solenoid clicks when keyed but high amperage only to one side and no start!! Anyone??
You can try gently tapping on the starter
I’ve tested starters off of the vehicle as well using a set of jumper cables first use your ground cable and clamp it onto one of the ears on starter using a small jumper wire clamp it to your solenoid (small connection to post on solenoid) then clamp the large post with the positive jumper cable end I also use the vehicle battery for the power supply for testing using the other end of your vehicle jumper cables clamp the ground side of the battery with the ground jumper cable at this point either have an assistant hold starter motor or put in a vice double check connections then tap positive side of the battery with positive end of jumper cable. If it (bendix) kicks out but the bendix doesn’t spin it’s the starter motor
Thanks 🙏
when I turn the key I get a tick from solenoid...and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick and turn the key and car starts up....do you think it is the solenoid? or starter motor
How exactly do you "energize" the solenoid. You missed explaining that.
your using the Diode setting on the meter.....
Guys if u plow more than 10 times a year at 12 plus hours each time change it annually w fluid in fall and save the old 1
Nice
How do you test a solenoid with only 3 terminals
I have 12 voltts until I try to start the motor and then I only have 9 volts at the starter
my ezgo golf cart just clicks
You forgot to check for resistance. Having continuity doesn't necessarily mean it's a good solenoid.
Good evening sir
very poor description
for example why did you not explain the type of power you used to charge the solenoid
and for terminals what if both working but one side not passing good charge ut still beeps
and last back up the camera to see more connections
,eans zoom in and out
Well said
Ahmad Karout 12 v
3minutes to tell everyone to just BUY a new one.
a year old comment that's too dumb to ignore lol, if u have 4 solenoids in a winch, should u just replace them all instead of taking 2 minutes to check which one it is??
Why would you perform a test out of view, and not even explain what it was, in an instructional video?
Not a solenoid its a starter relay
Cushman gas golf cart won’t run
Sorry Sean--have to give a thumbs down. You failed to explain or show how you "energized" solenoid
ANOTHER BAD VIDEO didn't show what the altermeter was doing
it's maybe to simple lol, I tested between both small terminals and got nothing no beep, but the truck started the next day would not start so I guess u right but if coil ain't show resistance of continuity but started the truck at least for moment
I ain't get continuity between s and the I terminal but somehow the truck started
Jesus!