The Big Problem With "Best Costume" Oscar Winners | Behind the Seams
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- čas přidán 7. 03. 2023
- The Oscars don't always award the "best" work of the year. Often, they celebrate the biggest, showiest contenders. And that's certainly true of highly technical awards like "Best Costume Design," which leans heavily toward nominating period and fantasy pieces. But contemporary dramas and comedies also deserve costume recognition. With the 2023 Oscars right around the corner....let's go Behind the Seams!
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When they didn't nominate 'The Fifth Element' I knew this was crazy. Everyone in that Bruce Willis film is in a perfect costume.
Interestingly, if you look back to when best costume design was first introduced, a lot more of of the nominees and winners were contemporary. Back in the 50s and 60 there were a lot of biblical epics, yes, and a smattering of other period pieces; but there was also All About Eve, Roman Holiday, To Catch a Thief, presumably also films that Edith Head didn't work on; Some Like it Hot say, or Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf? It would be interesting to see when that changed, and if there were significant changes in civilian fashion at the time?
the comment on how sci fi is an underrepresented genre in the costume category reminds me of an old blog post mentioning how christopher nolan has a bunch of movies which are technically sci fi, but which appeal to a more high brow audience/turn their noses to genre cinema by keeping the "serious" aesthetics of modern (but not too modern) everyday wear. its not that the costumes are bad, of course, but that they make a conscious effort not to Look like sci fi, like theories of what people will wear in the future. i was recently watching this apple tv series, Hello Tomorrow, that work a retrofuturistic aesthetic and uses general 1950s silhouettes along with fun unusual details to avoid settling too much on a period feel for long. in a sense its understandable (if you want your audience to feel grounded in something while big concepts are being thrown around, anchoring the style of the movie on a known period can do that very easily and keep costuming costs down) but it also seemd like a bit of a missed opportunity to have some fun and play with creative choices on what future trends would look like, as big a risk as that may feel to filmmakers
Great video! 💚
It's a shame that awards focus so heavily on period costume.
Hustlers and Knives Out was the first time I noticed the lack of respect for contemporary costuming
So great! Very interesting perspective on the genre bias - loved it
Love the line about sci-fi requiring the biggest-hyped film of the year to even get nominated.
And I totally agree, there's a huge amount of colourful and inventive costuming which gets completely ignored because it's in the wrong genre, or because only one or two character is dressed especially noticeably (even when all the costumes are picked for their characters). I mean, the original Knives Out caused quite a stir when it came out for its fishermen's jumpers and besuited horrible people and so on.
Tiny thing: felt the musical transition was a bit abrupt for the outro, a ~2 second fade (and maybe not such a drastic tempo difference) would feel a lot less jarring!
FYI the are just under 10,000 not 1,000 voting member of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. There are actually over 10,000 total members but only about 9500 are eligible to vote. The Costume Design Branch is the smallest branch of the academy with just over 150 members. The Costume Branch choses the nominees but all the branches then vote for the winner. I know some categories have a requirement that you must have watched all the nominees before you can vote but I'm not sure if the Best Costume award has that requirement. If it does, than that means that probably way less than 9500 voting members would actually vote for the final award.
Great video! I love the breakdown of the kinds of movies that win costume Oscars. I also didn’t realize the Oscar nominations were like election primaries!
One point though, I don’t think Sanditon is actually an example of race-blind casting. Miss Lambe is a mixed-race woman in the book.
I agree. Georgiana Lambe is not an example of race-blind casting.
Just gotta say I'm really enjoying your content.. super interesting and insightful.. Everyone can see how much quality hard work goes into the channel..so major credit to you mam...
Keep doing what you do....
It's not just costumes. The same bias can be seen in the Oscar for best cinematography. I think the last film to win best cinematography in the last 20 years that wasn't a period piece, sci-fi or fantasy film was Birdman. Possibly Gravity too if you don't consider that sci-fi.
Eeaao should win for best costume!
Birds of Prey should have won best costume design in 2020.
Its not just costume its everything MOST of the times such big awards are not given to the ones who actually deserve it
thank you!!!!
To me it boils down to costume design vs costume dramaturgy.
I will always appreciate the latter one more as it does what our profession is truly meant to do: storytelling.
With the exception of "Little Women", I have no problems with the Best Costume winners of the past few years.
Jusy remember... Bohemian Rhapsody was not only actually nominated for anything... But WON best editing...thus lost my belief in any validity of these awards
@9:08 *Correction: Black Panther was a costume design oscar winner that starred people colour, had a black designer and was not a historical drama.
maybe it's bcoz of the voting system.