Video není dostupné.
Omlouváme se.
How To Form, Pour, And Finish A Concrete Shed Slab! DIY!
Vložit
- čas přidán 15. 08. 2024
- #concreteshedslab #concreteslabforshed #mikedayconcrete
In this video I"m going to show you how to form, pour, and finish a concrete slab for a shed.
This concrete shed slab is 16' x 12' x 5 inches thick. I'll go over how to set up the forms, square the forms, and set grade to the forms.
Then I'm going to show you how to pour and bull float finish the concrete for the shed slab.
If you think you can install your own concrete shed slab but need a little more help, my concrete slab course below will teach you everything you need to know about installing a slab for a shed of any size.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to LIKE, SHARE, LEAVE ME A COMMENT, AND SUBSCRIBE!!
MY CONCRETE SLAB COURSE:
mike-day.mykaj...
METAL STAKES FOR FORMING:
tinyurl.com/yx... (Buy on Amazon here)
WIRE CUTTERS:
tinyurl.com/y5...
VISIT MY WEBSITE:
www.everything...
USE THE SAME TOOLS I DO:
SPECIAL DEAL: Use Coupon Code EAC on all equipment and tools bought from Marshalltown's website and get 10% off the price plus FREE SHIPPING!!
MARSHALLTOWN POWER TROWELS:
marshalltown.c...
MARSHALLTOWN SHOCKWAVE VIBRA-SCREED:
marshalltown.c...
MARSHALLTOWN CONCRETE TOOLS:
marshalltown.c...
TOPCON LASER LEVEL:
amzn.to/2VrJ3zV
DEWALT PENCIL VIBRATOR TOOL:
amzn.to/2Km5Zis
INVERTER GENERATOR LIKE WE USE:
amzn.to/2XfWfwe
BULLFLOAT:
amzn.to/2U1Kx2F
HAND FINISHING KNEE BOARDS:
amzn.to/2TZmTUj
MAG FLOAT & STEEL TROWEL SET:
amzn.to/2IgmDOq
2" MARGIN TROWEL:
amzn.to/2G33KNn
CONCRETE PLACER OR KUMALONG:
amzn.to/2I00gxp
CONCRETE FINISHING BROOM:
amzn.to/2UytU2B
CONCRETE SCREED:
amzn.to/2WZxtwm
CONCRETE EDGER:
amzn.to/2GbGkEp
CONCRETE GROOVER:
amzn.to/2PaL414
BOSCH HAMMER DRILL:
amzn.to/31AHnaN
MY RECOMMENDED TOOLS PAGE:
www.everything...
SUBSCRIBE to my email list and get my FREE video guide on how to get the perfect broom finish on a concrete patio:
forms.aweber.c...
Follow me on Twitter:
/ creteexpert
Follow me on Instagram:
www.instagram....
Follow my Facebook Page:
/ everythingaboutconcrete
He is an honest man I really like this video very educated thank mr Mike
This tutorial of how to pure slab was loud and clear. Thank you so much for the lesson Sir 👍
This video is exactly what I needed to learn. I'll use the affiliate links where I need to to help where I can. Many thanks, Mike. You're teaching an old nuclear engineer new tricks.
i love your videos mike, they are a definite winner, good stuff and im learning alot from them
Thank you!
By the way these videos are going to help me with my 7”x7” shed for my backyard but I will continue to look at your videos and make myself available to embrace this knowledge you r giving my friend be blessed.
Thanks for the education. I'm planning to build a music studio in my backyard. This video showed me I'd be busier than a one-legged man in an ass-kicking contest if I tried to do this all by myself. It took three of you to keep things rolling along.
Really simplified everything in such a small amount of time. Ur an awesome teacher. Good job from Toronto !
Thank You!
I built a shed with these plans from Ryan [ Details Here?> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ] . The instructions were clear and easy to implement. Even a novice can be able to build fast using this plan. I'm happy I bought the plan. It also saved me much cost.
Like it. Nice relaxed, understated commentary. Sign of a man who knows his stuff.
... VERY-POOR-QUALITY-SLAB ... ALWAYS" Wet-Down The Subgrade "BEFORE" You Pour A Slab ... A Bone-Dry-Subgrade like the one in this video, will "suck-out" or "wick" the moisture out of the Poured Concrete Slab as it Cures, and damage the slab ... AND ... For a 5"-Slab, This Contractor Should Have Put little 1.5"-Chairs or Supports, beneath the Steel Reinforcing....These guys did not do this....They Were Lazy and just laid the Wire-Mesh "flat" on top of the Subgrade and Poured the Concrete directly on top of the Unsupported Wire Mesh.....A Truly Terrible Product for this customer ... ALWAYS OVER-BUILD YOUR SLAB ...
Great job as if concrete isn’t hard enough filming yourself doing it than answering all theses questions hats off to ya
Why no dpc under concrete
I'm from Baltimore and I watch you like and you do very well I have a small concrete company and I'll get a lot of good tips keep up the good work
Awesome! glad I can help in some way or another.
Just got yourself a new Sub 😉. I too am in the construction industry and plan on building my own home in the near future. I am going to use your course to help me pour the foundation 😆. Thanks a lot for the videos 👍.
I really thank you for all your knowledge on forming and pouring concrete. I don’t have the financial ability to pay for the class right now but I’m going to try and get it so that I can really get depth with this.
Awesome vid thanks for the knowledge God bless!!
Great video for beginners. Thanks Mike
Very professional
Thank you!
Buddy in neon
buddy in neon green puttin' in work
When using the screed, another trick is to "wiggle" it back and forth as you go over the concrete. It helps push the stones down and bring the cream to the surface. You guys seemed to just drag it straight back, which is fine, but if the guys on the ends work it back and forth, almost like you're sawing down a tree, I think it would help out with the finished product.
Doesn't help the finished product any. Just need to bull float it good that's all.
@@MikeDayConcrete It cuts back on how many times you have to go over it with the bullfloat by helping to work the stones down and bring the cream up.
Kaneseb maybe, but it’s 5x faster to just drag it and make two passes with the bull float instead of one.
Gonna have to be laying a slab foundation for a granny flat so this is great! I'd prefer you guys to so it but I guess being in the UK that's quite a trek!
Liked and subbed, hope you had a great Christmas and hoping you have a great new year!
Thanks Mike! Doing a new patio and this is so informative! Will look into course too!
It should be noted that simply measuring equal diagonals on your forms, does not insure squareness. Someone could nail a corner on the wrong side of the line or overlap the wrong board and then end up with an isosceles trapezoid and still have equal diagonal measurements. You can calculate the correct diagonal by using the Pythagorean Theorem - A²+B²=C² or the 3-4-5 method.
🤜🤛
You are correct, it's always a good idea to double check your measurements. We've been doing this together so long we have a method for marking the boards that works every time.
@@MikeDayConcrete That’s a huge plus when you work with the same guys/gals all the time. Everyone always seems to just fall into place with there usual tasks w/o a bunch of discussion and the whole thing just meshes nicely.
🤜🤛
It should be noted that simply measuring equal diagonals for the last 55 years has ALWAYS insured squareness for me, my father and countless other contractors in the building trade.
Pythagorean Theorists should always PPE on job sites, especially hard hats especially on windy days when 2x are flying out of control.
Man this is art! Very cool
Thank you!
A tiny addendum to your Step 1 forming.
Establish the location of ONE side of your form such as distance from common property line, house, or other important landmarks.
Stake that form (2x?) in a straight line somewhat close to elevation.
THEN square it up with equal diagonals.
This way you don't risk the chance of having the forms move out of position.
Talking about residential close quarter properties here.
A good practice even though your're building on an acreage where this might not be so critical.
Question:
Why is the concrete short on the bottom left of the formwork? (edit: down below, never mind)
Thanks for the information
Cheers,
N
Thx Mike. Going to try this for a 10x12 and I'm not the most handy guy. Appreciate your help.
Good Luck, let me know how it comes out!!
... VERY-POOR-QUALITY-SLAB ... ALWAYS" Wet-Down The Subgrade "BEFORE" You Pour A Slab ... A Bone-Dry-Subgrade like the one in this video, will "suck-out" or "wick" the moisture out of the Poured Concrete Slab as it Cures, and damage the slab ... AND ... For a 5"-Slab, This Contractor Should Have Put little 1.5"-Chairs or Supports, beneath the Steel Reinforcing....These guys did not do this....They Were Lazy and just laid the Wire-Mesh "flat" on top of the Subgrade and Poured the Concrete directly on top of the Unsupported Wire Mesh.....A Truly Terrible Product for this customer ... ALWAYS OVER-BUILD YOUR SLAB ...
Spent a good amount of time on the corners in those edges. Invest in them right tools
@@donaldpedigo296
If you were paying attention.... one of the first things he showed was putting in chairs to hold up the wire. He called them bolsters. As for wetting down the base .... he may well have done that and just not shown it in this video. I have watched plenty of Mike’s videos and as he says he has been doing it for 39 years.
👍great job and video. Got skills. Thanks for cheering your knowledge.
Mike does your course discuss grading, the types of gravel base required any code requirements? Drainage requirements of the ground cover? Calcium content and when?
Tony from Las Cruces NM.Great job again Mike.🇺🇸👍
Thanks 👍
Yet another great video.
I appreciate that
Brilliant
Great tutorial and commentary
Looks like you did a great job .
Nice work boys.
Nice job fellas
This was awesome 🤙🏼
Hey Mike!
I love watching your videos. I have been learning from my old man who has been involved with concrete work since he was old enough to hold a trowel. He’s getting older, and slightly harder to learn from, so I try to stay ahead of the game in as many ways as I can-your videos are one of them!
I was curious to know if you cover a more in depth look at the many processes pertaining to forming and preparing for different types of pours on your,” Concrete Underground,” course?
Thanks!
Yes, I go more into detail in the courses.
Mike, you're awesome. I really appreciate your instruction and effort. It's fantastic! Thanks!
Very good teamwork!
That's you for instruction video.
Q,does wire mesh 9guage is enough for garrage pad 5" thick.12x30ft project.
Fantastic channel.
Great video, Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
Nice job!
really good vid. thank you.
Thank you!
Great video thanks for posting.
Thanks.
looks great - next time I will study this before doing a slab - sure could have done a better job I'm sure
btw - you might want to edit the link and fix up the spelling where its says 'VIDEO #7 - How to pour the concrete (includes how to level, screed, and bull float the cncrete'
11:49 lol thank you man people broke like me we don't have money to pay a jog like this i will do it god bless you
Getting ready to pour an 11x21 pad... should be interesting
Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
Great job... Great info. Thank You!
... VERY-POOR-QUALITY-SLAB ... ALWAYS" Wet-Down The Subgrade "BEFORE" You Pour A Slab ... A Bone-Dry-Subgrade like the one in this video, will "suck-out" or "wick" the moisture out of the Poured Concrete Slab as it Cures, and damage the slab ... AND ... For a 5"-Slab, This Contractor Should Have Put little 1.5"-Chairs or Supports, beneath the Steel Reinforcing....These guys did not do this....They Were Lazy and just laid the Wire-Mesh "flat" on top of the Subgrade and Poured the Concrete directly on top of the Unsupported Wire Mesh.....A Truly Terrible Product for this customer ... ALWAYS OVER-BUILD YOUR SLAB ...
Great video, am I the only one thinks that Mike's voice is very similar to Obama :).
Hey Mike, thanks for the video!
Question on what if the form is not square? I'm going to pour an 8x8.5 slab that will be roughly 3 inches thick but due to using old framing wood that's bent I'm an inch and half off being square. This is a backyard slab for a jacuzzi that I'll eventually put a roof over, so if not a perfect square so what, right? Much thanks from Florida.
Just have to worry about the square when you're building. Doesn't hurt the slab at all.
Great timing lol Been thinking about putting one of these out front at my house.
What size are you thinking of doing?
@@MikeDayConcrete Probably like a 16x12. I want to stamp it also because it makes it look soo much higher end but not sure yet. Gonna ask my Boss to use some stamps since I did not know they are very expensive for a rubber sheet
Thanks for this great instructional. I've never before seen slab bolster laid as a grid sheet. Please, how did you connect them?
great info!
At what point do you put footings in?
You didn't oil forms? There was a lower portion towards the camera that wasn't level with form? The concrete was below the top form? Slope?
Nice
Very informative and gives me confidence to do my own about the same size. I'm renting all the floats from a local trade hire. What do you guys pay for concrete in the US? Cost me $400 Australian dollars for a cubic meter which is about 35 cubic feet.
Mike. What's the point of the 6X6 mesh? Doesn't look like your guys pulled it up into the slab where its supposed to be.
I want to do a 14 X 20 garage slab but no truck I'll do it all by hand can I do it in sections so I don't have to do it all at once like 2 7' x 10' sections or 4 5' X 7' sections
But thank you my friend.
I want to pour a slab in my crawlspace/cellar. Currently there's 5" of pea gravel. Do I need to do anything to the pea gravel to compact it?
Mike,
I noticed that one corner of the slab i "lower" than the other corners. Why is that? I am just trying to learn this trade and was curious.
The slab is level, it's just the board (form) in that corner we didn't dig down to grade. We snapped a chalk line on it level with the board on the other side. The sub-grade was a little out of level that's all.
@@MikeDayConcrete Thanks Mike that is what I figures. Keep the videos coming. You are good at the trade and a good instructor.
Mike Day Everything About Concrete p
I just subscribed man
Awesome, welcome. Where are you from?
Just found your vids and am glad I did so. Lots of good information. I did laugh out loud at 9:00 though. Maybe cause you're a professional and buy hundreds of trucks a year, but both my ready mix guys here in MD mandate when I place my order that the truck will empty and wash out the on site. I assumed it's because I'm a homeowner and not a pro.
As someone who works with concrete virtually every day, I can tell you that he misspoke. While the trucks don't have to empty on site, they do have to wash out on site. The difference is that what ever is still in the truck can remain in the truck (because they can always add a ton of water and other chemicals they have to delay the curing and hardening within the mixer) but what ever has gone down onto the chute must be dumped on site, and the the driver needs a spot to wash out the chute on site.
@@rivahkillah A good concrete truck driver can wash out in a five gallon bucket. Just make sure you tell them you don’t want a mess...or they will!
🤜🤛
@@psidvicious You're referring to the cleaning of the chute and I'm referring to the clearing of the chute. The contents of a fully loaded chute will not fit in a 5 gallon bucket which is why I said whatever is on the chute will need to be dumped on site. They use enviro-chutes in residential areas here for washout.
@@rivahkillah You’re absolutely right. I am referring to ‘cleaning’ the chute. That’s why a good finisher will hold up the last truck until the work is screeded out, so he knows exactly how much to let the driver discharge. You can see Mike climbing all the way up the chute and raking out the final small amount he needs to finish the pour.
🤜🤛
Maybe I mis-spoke. they do take back what's left in the truck. They just need to clean and wash the chute on site.
Great video. Thank you. 4 yards of concrete for 12' x 16' x 5"? Please explain. Simple math shows me only 3 yards. Must be missing something.....
I didn't see them broom or edge either.
I just caught that also...16'×12'×.416÷27=2.95 yards.
Do you use wire under all slabs? Is there a size that is small enough that you wouldn't need it?
If you stopped with a mag finish, I assume the concrete pores at the surface are still open. Bleed water is not trapped and can continue up and out.
Question - depending on if you did a mag vs steel finish how do you let the slab cure?
For example my house slab was finished with steel and water bathed for a week to cure to prevent surface cracking.
Could you show me how to construct a highrise concrete parking structure please ?
I don't think so. You need an engineer.
@@MikeDayConcrete wow thank you
I must be an engineer then
@@skibee50 this is a good question for the CZcams channel Practical Engineering
Mike, thanks a million for all your helpful info. I would like to get going on your class, but I’m at the stage where I’m not sure how economical it really is for me to do this myself. Assuming I have purchased all the tools you recommend beforehand, is the cost of the actual concrete still substantially cheaper if I do it myself? I ask because when I’ve done some calculations online for pouring a patio, just the concrete cost alone seemed more than I expected and I thought maybe it’d be worth it to just hire someone like yourself after all. Thanks for any reply, man.
How do you know if your level when you mag the edges? Shouldn’t your form board be level so shouldn’t screeding off the forms be more accurate?
Thank you for the instructive video. How does the process change if you want to pour over existing concrete that's uneven? Is it best to break up and get rid of the old concrete and pour some new concrete so it all can be level or can concrete be poured over the old concrete until a level surface is achieved? Thank you!
Do you need a slope on the slab if I’m gonna put a shed on it? For rain water purposes
Hi Mike, thanks for posting what is possibly the most easy to understand video on this subject. I’m about to lay a 12x4 metre base and this will be invaluable as of course I’ve never done it before! If I may ask, what size timber did you use for the battons?
We used 2x6 forms
@@MikeDayConcrete Hi Mike ; Coincidently when i ran into this video i was thinking of laying a 12' x 16' slab myself so i couldn't believe it when i first saw this video ! Lol ! My question is , that if instead of 3x6 forms , could i use 2x4's ???? since I'm not thinking of putting anything super heavy?
Do you have a video of how to get the diagonal measurement of a slab for like laying out a big slab using 4 stakes and a string line?
HOW DO YOU CHECK THAT THE 16' x 12' 5 INCH THK SLAB IS LEVELED?
Would it make sense to pour over a perfectly good basement slab in order to add heated floors for engineered hardwood and if so what would be the thinnest you’d recommend over something like pex tubing as I don’t won’t to lose to much height down there? Thanks buddy, starting to watch your videos as there popping up on my feed!! Great work!!
David Rizzotto very close to my dilemma. My son has a basement with a non perfect floor and We’d like to add a concrete floor, yet not reduce the headroom too much. How thin of a slab can we do Mike?
hell yeah
Hey Mike I been watching a bunch of your videos and in this one the lefthand corner was just below the top of the for. Was the form just a little high or was there another reason?
What if you have a pole barn that has 6x6 studs that stick out and are in ground? Would you just form around each one or still just form normally and have a 6" gap between the slab and the wall? Great content..new sub here!
2:05 damn you guys can swing a hammer fast, WOW.
What are the reasons some slabs have an aggregate below, like this, then some go on top of the natural dirt?
Are slabs better when they are above the natural grade like this, or when they are dug out so the top of slab is even with the ground?
Thank you. And thank you for the other videos.
Hey Mike great video....I am thinking of taking your course....Do any of your videos in the course cover how to finish concrete so that it can be acid stained?
The finish we had on a slab was so slick like glass that parts of it wouldn't take an acid stain. Thanks!
I don't talk about acid-staining in the course. That'll be a whole other course in it self. It teaches you how to form, pour, and finish the concrete.
All concrete that's going to be stained needs to be prepped for the stain first. We do a lot of staining, a hard troweled floor will have to be lightly ground to "open" the surface. The key is knowing how to lightly grind the surface without scratching it. If you use an acetone dye, you'll have better results on a hard troweled surface like you describe and still get the nice stained look.
I have an existing slab which is 4” thick. I am adjoining a 5 x 8 foot addition to the existing slab. What do you recommend for the forms? 4x6s? Or 2x4s. Great video!!!!
@MikeDayConcrete
I was wondering your thoughts. about pouring concrete in sections for newbies? If someone were to pour a long walkway, only had enough time to do sections of the walkway every a month, is this a good idea?
How do I do this alone, and without the cement truck?
Mike hey Mike I got a 15 by 12 garage is going to be a for a garage how many how much can I charge and what I need
I need a 24x 24 ‘ x4” slab for a garage any ideas on expansion joints, and process, so it’s just me can I do it my doing 3x3’ sections at a time or ???
can you pour cement on top of grass?
What is the width of the door opening for the 8'x6' shed?
Can the concrete be hand mixed from bags? Is it possible to mix and pour by hand a slab of this size? I've poured the piers for a deck (21 of them) (down to 4 feet for the frost line)... A lot of work, but I did it...
It's possible but that would be a lot of bags.
According to an online calculator a 12x16x5 slab is about 2.96 yards and would take 134 80# bags. Might take a few minutes.
Grasias for the video god job 👏👏👏
Thanks
Great video. But why was the concrete on the left corner of the slab not all the way up to the top of your form? Just asking as a DYIer Thanks
First of all, I am a rank beginner. It appears your concrete is level with the top of the forms except in the lower left corner. What am I not seeing? Secondly, how much of a difference does a rounded end bull float make vs. one with square ends? Your video is a huge help.
It was level with the top on one side and not in the other corner. We snapped a chalk line in that corner that was level with the top of the boards on the other side. The gravel was a little high on that side and we didn't want to dig down the boards to make them all perfectly level so we just used a chalk line as our level mark in that corner.
@@MikeDayConcrete Thank you for answering the first part of my question. I have a 36 in. magnesium bull float that I use and then I broom it . This is on my farm property for short pads and sidewalks that I get buddies to help. I was wondering if the rounded edge bull float or a fresno would make a little finer finish after I use my regular bull float - then broom it lightly. This is for 4-9 yds projects. I hire out slab work for any buildings where I want a smooth finish for flooring, etc. I'm 74 but I do enjoy small concrete projects. Any advice is appreciated
A great video and I looked at your course. Why didn't I purchase it? Apart from being in US dollars and looking through the comments, you don't seem to answer or acknowledge anybody's questions. That was a red flag for me. .
That's strange, in the course I've answered hundreds of questions. Do you have any?
Good teaching video. I watch quite a few different concrete pours so I can do it without errors this spring when I pour my 20x28 shop floor. I did the calculations on a 12' x 16' x 0.42' (5") slab and it comes out to 80 cu. ft. 80 divided by 27 = 2.96 cu. yds. of concrete. You said you ordered 4 yards. Even 10% over-order (a good practice) would be about 3 1/4 cu. yds. Why did you order so much? I also noticed that the J-Bolt installer wasn't measuring from any particular corner for placement. Doesn't that lead to a bolt or 2 or 3 being placed right where a stud will be? The framer than has to saw the J-bolt off and drill in an expanding bolt.
Usually the framer will just move a stud to one side of the j bolt. One stud being off an inch or so isnt that big of a deal.
Thats what I was thinking too. There didnt seem to be any consideration as to where the shed door was being placed. I also would expect at least 4 anchors per side on the 16ft side. The suggestion to move the stud an inch over will make installing 4x8 sheets of osb or shed siding a pain when your piece doesnt end on a stud like intended.
Mike, my wife and I are thinking of pouring a 16 x 25 slab for a garage, which will eventually be a guest living area, on a cabin in Northern, MN. Do you think two mod 60 year old geezers could handle this? If yes, what course should we get? Wood stove willl be the heat source, and there will be plumbing.
Hey Mike, looks great. I want to lay bluestone pavers on a slab like this. Do you need to lay the pavers when the concrete is semi wet so they stick to the concrete, if not what stops the pavers from moving once they are placed on the concrete. Do you lay the pavers and then pour poly sand and that holds them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also can i pour the cement on dirt or do i need to put a base down first. thanks again and look forward to hearing from you.
Hello, I have an 8x8 shed foundation project going on, which will include a 24"deep x 12"~ wide ratwall. The shed already exist and has been moved out of the way revealing very sand soil underneath. My questions are; while digging the ratwall, the sandy soil where the floor of the shed will be is not as stable as I would like. If I were to remove it it would go down about 3-4 inches. If I even the sandy soil out, can I secure and pour the concrete on top of that? Also, I have been advised to secure the interior of the ratwall side (shed side) to use some 1/2 plywood all around at the 24", and tht it would be ok to leave it there after pouring the concrete. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Is it possible to do a slab around this size (slightly smaller) with a concrete mixer and bags of concrete? I'm looking to do a slab for a backyard office ~150 ft from the street, so not sure a truck would have any way of getting there.
Good job