The OEM nut was probably cast with softer metal to allow it to conform a bit with heating but along with that comes all the drawbacks of softer metal. Your new kit nut was better with the larger flange and may have prevented the whole problem had Ford spent the extra dime to start with. Anyway, another good fix, because of the opportunity to get silicone all over your hands and anything you touch! I enjoy your one-man shop vids as I grew up in my Dad's one-man shop figuring out how to get her done by himself. Not sure everyone appreciates the extra challenge of going it alone.
It's lots of fun until you need to bleed brakes or watch something under the hood while cranking the engine. It would be nice to have help a lot of times!
Carp at Sweet Water Country Club in Sugarland Texas have Carp in their water traps. I have witnessed them swim out of the water while laying on their sides eat the grass within a foot and a half of the water. Then flop themselves back into the water. I'm not a goffer, just their HVAC chiller HVAC tech. Nothing will make your hair stand up like hearing FOUR off in the distance and having a golf ball thumping the metal cabinet above your head. I believe it's called a hook or something of the sort. Not nearly as distracting as crop dusters looping in the background audio of your video Wes! It usually called for a break, the good old days. Thanks, Wes I enjoy every minute. Keep it up.
That Toyota FIPG is the toughest stuff I’ve ever used. Once it sets up on an oil pan you don’t even need bolts to secure the pan. I’ll take a jackhammer to ever separate the pan from the block. We used to call it Figpig way back in my dealership days.
Wes- I've been binge watching your channel, IMO you do excellent work; you're very conscientious about what your doing, I like that. I was always taught- repair it like it's your own, and your name is on it. Yes- it is prideful, but in a good way- it keeps you honest and mindful, not just a hack that desperate people regretfully call on because of convenience. I've seen Shops in rural areas take advantage of people, where they have no other choices. I haven't wrenched Professionally in 25 years- mainly because so many Shops are a ripoff, and I can't justify that. To me- a vehicle is a tool of your Freedom. I can't see how they justify labor rates nowadays, where things are easier with computers and plastic parts. It's very obvious many manufacturers don't even think about part replacement; who would put new bearings in a 2020 Crapmobile anyway? 100k warranty- throw it away society. Ok, rant over.
Same issue on my 2002 7.3 oil pan cleaned it up real good on the outside never taking it apart as you did put high temp silicone on let it sit for a couple days it's been 3 yrs and no more leaks so far.
Good video. I bought a new o ring kit, it leaked again in 2 weeks. For my 2nd try I used old intercooler boot and cut a gasket using the outer nut as a pattern. I cleaned inner surfaces, put my homemade gasket in place of the oring. No RTV or other inside the pan. It's been a year, still good. I hope this helps someone.
Wow! Just wow, you're correct about the nut being over tightened that's exactly what happened to mine by the previous owner, whoever invented that kit was a genius, that brush tool was the cats meow that's for sure, I did mine the hardway, the first time I used silicone and it didn't work, the second time I used a whole tube of JB weld, one of the large tubes, it's been holding for the past 5 years, I sure wish I knew about that brush tool beforehand.
Yamabond is good stuff! I had some left over from rebuilding my brothers Suzuki, i used it up recently and I’ve thought of getting more because it works so well
Wow what a wonderful river, how cool is that, you get to live in some neat country hello rabbits. We do this oil filter thing never leaks sits a lot dry arid still never leaks one thing we got right in regards to our Jeep servicing. Thank you, Lance & Patrick.
I installed a 6.9/C6 in a 1953 IHC R120. The 6.9 was a constant source of leaking. Repairs never lasted. I retired the truck with the engine after I got a warning ticket from the environment police. The dipstick was always a problem. I remember fixing oil-cooler leaks a few times. Another area of failure was the bi-metal swath for the glow-plug circuit. I gave up fixing this sensor after burning our several sets of glow plugs. The 6.9 was not a good cold engine starter. I used ether for most of the 225,000 miles I drove that truck. A little whiff will do just fine.
This is one of those situations, do you spend the time to do this properly or do the best you can and hope for the best, for what it's worth I think I would have gone the same way you did, while I'm not a big fan of rtv if it works than it's fixed
Thank you Wes. Gonna see if you have a video on the oil cooler leak because I think that's where mine is. Only leaks in cold weather and on initial start.
Im chasing oil leaks on my excavator now. Rear main seal on the detroit and doing all the suction and pressures lines on the 3 pumps. Also have a leaking valve body that i really don't want to mess with right now. the dodge just did the oil feed to the turbo and the pan has a few damp spots so Im sure its got a rust pinhole in it. Pans are cheap but its all the work to replace one. Hope the silicone holds up for you and the diesel leaks were just those hose clamps. Just keep telling yourself a few nickles and dimes is a lot better than a new vehicle payment.
Be careful with the new oil pan. I remember Deboss Garage did a video about a 5.9 Cummins that was ruined by a Dorman oil pan when the paint inside peeled off and clogged the oil pickup screen. I never would have thought of that!
Every truck I have owned is a nickle and dime truck. I am glad I'm not the only one who siliconed my way out of a problem. It should be in the dictionary. Take care Wes
I remember this futile attempt to stop leaks. I installed a 6.9 Diesel in my R120 International. I drove it for 20+ years and about 225,000 miles. Oil leak mitigation was an annual event. I have Cummins now.
Your drawings are great. I tried a o-ring on mine but it didn't work, flange was bent like yours. Slathered motorcraft gray silicone all over it and it never leaked again. Better than dropping the pan or those $300 kits out there. No shame in that repair.
Well, how about this for a jack job. I didn't remove the dip stick tube, and ran the nut off with a bungee in place on the tube to keep pressure on the inner o-ring. Used a tooth brush, and a can and a half of brake cleaner to get the threads, the two dimples for the orientation pin, and the surface of the pan where the nut sits surgically clean. I did get a good amount in the oil. I wanted to make sure the oil behind the adaptor was clear and it was clean, as to not contaminate the the sealing surfaces at the base of the threads. Contamination = no seal. After getting it all clean, I applied motorcraft TA-31 sealant to the alignment voids on the adaptor first with the tip of of the nozzle, and made sure to fill the void, and about 3/16" bead to the base of the threads. I then ran the surgically clean factory nut, right back on there, and snugged it down. I let it sit for two hours before filling the oil after dropping it to remove contamination. No dipstick o-ring needed, no o ring for the inner adapter seal. Just a clean properly prepped surface, some 7.3 silicone, and it's bone dry. Probably a lifetime repair. I'd bet on this over any of these bullshit kits. Total cost, $23 for a tube of the TA-31, and about two and a half hours, mostly waiting for the silicone to set up. Yeah buddy.
I forgot to mention the squish out around the nut after snugging it down even looks factory. I'm thinking about making a replacement nut, flanged, with threads all the way down, and dual o-rings that seal on the outside. A very small dab of TA-31 at the engagement dimples before install, and bam. Sell them for a reasonable $25. I'm half tempted to get the 3d printer going. Seriously.
That drawing helped, thanks. You may feel like a hack, but that is the best you could do under the circumstances. Dropping that pan sounds like a big job that is just not worth it if you have an alternative.
Wes I did the same job 6 years ago on my F350 and my flange was mangled...from me trying to tightening to stop the leak , I used RTV and a new nut ....no leaks still .
Is it possible that they put a thicker o ring on the inside of the pan and said OK lady???and maybe it did work for a while and swelled causing it to bend??better solution what you did instead of dropping the oil pan!!!good work as usual!!!
Lets see how the oil pump likes silicon, the more the better, you could have buttered up the outside of the pan too. It's seems every time you fix one problem, another will pop up, it just goes with the territory when working on tired iron. My son's shop got a 4' water mark on the walls, someone opened a spillway, in six hours it was inundated. Have you tried RightStuff, it's pretty good sealant too.
Next time I'm going to fab a patch with the tube receiver and tig it on the side of the pan. One of the worst ideas I've seen that made it into production was this bronze adapter instead of a different pan for vans.
sometimes we just have to adapt....in a perfect world the repair kit would have been fine. i get what you are saying about it not feeling right. i struggle with the same thing at times....i have a problem not doing it properly regardless of the time and cost.
According to International this is the right way to do it. But, that's coming from the bastards who came up with this stupid design in the first place.
Do the instructions say to put the sealant on the INSIDE? I would be afraid it would just peal away and get in the pickup screen because you can't clean the inside of the pan of oil.
Dave Kersey Sept 12 2020 Cam sensor Have a 1996 f-250 73l Was a TSB on depth of sensor in block ford had a TSB that added one or two shims to back it from the cam. Now they make two different sensors. If that didn't work there sugestion is to replace the cam.. I used the shim and got it to work. Have you run into this ? Dave Vietnam vet 82 yrs old.Thanks
How do you like those hantek amp clamps? I've got the lower current one and have considered buying the higher current one. Only issue I've noticed with the lower current one is that the power/current-range switch is a bit fiddly. Lol, yeah, the oring swelled and bent the flange...
If silicone is a hack then every modern engineer is a hack, all the modern shit i work on has most the engine covers and pans siliconed on, gone are the days of gaskets, i have done this on 7.3s using the motorcraft silicone and it usually works good.
FYI my son in law worked in the industry making seal that seal you replaced had a glue joint that's where it separated they since found a way to mold them solid no joints all one piece every o ring had to be glued and go into a heated iron for a hour one at a time how arkaioc
The theory is that it's better to let the oil be pumped through the filter to remove any crud before it goes to wherever it needs to go. In my opinion, if there is that mush crud in brand new oil, we've got much bigger problems than filling the oil filter. I know Cat filters specifically will tell you not to fill them. I've done it thousands of times.
Yes Volcker. I think it's better to have oil pressure sooner than to worry about the tiny amount of crud in the oil. Especially on the diesel engines where the filter is very large and holds a lot of oil. However, many newer engines are using cartridge filters that cannot really be pre-filled. So, maybe it's a moot point.
That's a rule for fuel filters but I've never heard of that for oil. When I have no choice but to pre fill a fuel filter I always try to only pour it in the "dirty" side of the filter.
You would think filling a brand new filter with brand new oil word he fairly safe. I think they are refering to the retards who reuse their oil filter and just swap the oil lol.
Wes o rings don't swell in oil. What they did is replace that o ring with a heavier one and tightened the hell out of it breaking it and bending the nut and internal part. Ford with a better Idea?
I don’t know why you feel bad about the repair. You were handed a bucket of crap. Obviously someone really over tightened that flange. You did your best, nice work.
The worst part design I've seen on the 7.3 too date. Started to try to fix mine and yes, ' the inside part fell into the oil pan"! I guess I'm going on a fishing expedition now? Hope I can fish it out?
I was always told you had to wait 15 to 20 minutes to let RTV set up a little bit and then go back and tighten it all the way, obviously that's untrue?
That's a good idea. It's not really possible here though since we have RTV on the threads. The big thing is to wait 24 hours for the RTV to cure before refilling the oil.
It's a very bad design using badly thought out parts. The person who designed this should be made to come and personally replace every leaking example of his work.
the day is coming when you will have a sighted self-directing little robot on a stout steel stem that can sneak in behind all the struts and cables and impossibly tight spaces where a gripped hand won't really fit and it will undo all those bolts behind the starter housing and tucked up under the air compressor and in behind the alternator......the guy who invents that take 'em out and put 'em back in bolt/nut/fastener extractor robot is going to be a billionaire
Be very careful using brakleen around engine oils. 1 can of that stuff can contaminate up to 2000L of oil. We aren't allowed to use it in the oil fields anymore as the upgraders are saying it messes with their refining process.
holy snap. thanks for sharing that very interesting. a weird fact i learned in a township meeting, a little gasoline can ruin an aquifer, it moves faster than the water, some lady had a fuel oil delivery but no tank ... but the french drain...
It's a terrible design. They could have at least used steel fittings, or even aluminum. There are weld in fittings available, but you have to remove the oil pan.
@@WatchWesWork haas and mazak lathes and vertical mills are the better ones but lots of shit out of china with fanuc controls and drives . due to local manufacturing going to shit recently moved over to working on wood working machines also. same problems and skill set just replace dealing with coolant and oil with saw dust and grease.
Wes Johnson Services More than one mechanic has had a cussing fit over that design. Been many rear main seals replaced when the real culprit was turbo pedestal seals. Been there a few times.
The OEM nut was probably cast with softer metal to allow it to conform a bit with heating but along with that comes all the drawbacks of softer metal. Your new kit nut was better with the larger flange and may have prevented the whole problem had Ford spent the extra dime to start with. Anyway, another good fix, because of the opportunity to get silicone all over your hands and anything you touch! I enjoy your one-man shop vids as I grew up in my Dad's one-man shop figuring out how to get her done by himself. Not sure everyone appreciates the extra challenge of going it alone.
It's lots of fun until you need to bleed brakes or watch something under the hood while cranking the engine. It would be nice to have help a lot of times!
You are right Wes, the dipstick adapter was overtightened at one point and time, I have seen it alot on those 7.3 / 444 engines.
do not worry Wes..Post10 will be on the job soon..
Carp at Sweet Water Country Club in Sugarland Texas have Carp in their water traps. I have witnessed them swim out of the water while laying on their sides eat the grass within a foot and a half of the water. Then flop themselves back into the water. I'm not a goffer, just their HVAC chiller HVAC tech. Nothing will make your hair stand up like hearing FOUR off in the distance and having a golf ball thumping the metal cabinet above your head. I believe it's called a hook or something of the sort. Not nearly as distracting as crop dusters looping in the background audio of your video Wes! It usually called for a break, the good old days. Thanks, Wes I enjoy every minute. Keep it up.
That Toyota FIPG is the toughest stuff I’ve ever used. Once it sets up on an oil pan you don’t even need bolts to secure the pan. I’ll take a jackhammer to ever separate the pan from the block. We used to call it Figpig way back in my dealership days.
Sometimes "fixed" is as good as properly fixed so I would say you went the best route.
If the repair doesn't work out, we can always tune in to the other channel: Watch Wes Fish.
Or Watch Wes Buy Truck
Wes-
I've been binge watching your channel, IMO you do excellent work;
you're very conscientious about what your doing, I like that.
I was always taught- repair it like it's your own, and your name
is on it. Yes- it is prideful, but in a good way- it keeps you honest and mindful,
not just a hack that desperate people regretfully call on because of convenience.
I've seen Shops in rural areas take advantage of people, where they have no other
choices. I haven't wrenched Professionally in 25 years- mainly because so many Shops
are a ripoff, and I can't justify that. To me- a vehicle is a tool of your Freedom.
I can't see how they justify labor rates nowadays, where things are easier
with computers and plastic parts. It's very obvious many manufacturers don't
even think about part replacement; who would put new bearings in a 2020 Crapmobile
anyway? 100k warranty- throw it away society.
Ok, rant over.
That flooding is like what we have gotten In the last month and a half our river is flowing like a ocean which is rare good video @Watch Wes Work
After watching this I've decided on the Strictly Diesel oil dipstick adapter. For $300 I'll never have to worry about this issue again.
Same issue on my 2002 7.3 oil pan cleaned it up real good on the outside never taking it apart as you did put high temp silicone on let it sit for a couple days it's been 3 yrs and no more leaks so far.
Do you happen to remember which brand silicone you used on yours? I'm trying to figure out which one to get. Appreciate your help.
@@somyal it was a high temp grey or black from Napa.
@@ryanroads7748thank you.
Good video.
I bought a new o ring kit, it leaked again in 2 weeks. For my 2nd try I used old intercooler boot and cut a gasket using the outer nut as a pattern. I cleaned inner surfaces, put my homemade gasket in place of the oring. No RTV or other inside the pan. It's been a year, still good. I hope this helps someone.
what is a intercooler boot?
Wow! Just wow, you're correct about the nut being over tightened that's exactly what happened to mine by the previous owner, whoever invented that kit was a genius, that brush tool was the cats meow that's for sure, I did mine the hardway, the first time I used silicone and it didn't work, the second time I used a whole tube of JB weld, one of the large tubes, it's been holding for the past 5 years, I sure wish I knew about that brush tool beforehand.
Yamabond is good stuff! I had some left over from rebuilding my brothers Suzuki, i used it up recently and I’ve thought of getting more because it works so well
Very well done drawing and a good video. Mine still isn't leaking, but I will remember your video when it does - and it will.
That drawing was perfect lol what the hell 👍🏻👍🏻 great video !
Now you're a REAL mechanic! ;-)
Feels good!
Seems to me you broke the automatic rust preventer.🤷🏻♂️
And oil level indicator. If there are no drips it needs oil 😂
Lol awesome
Wow what a wonderful river, how cool is that, you get to live in some neat country hello rabbits. We do this oil filter thing never leaks sits a lot dry arid still never leaks one thing we got right in regards to our Jeep servicing. Thank you, Lance & Patrick.
It's a beautiful location. But, the mosquitoes will carry you away in the summer.
Wes, that's a nice looking hack job!!!! Hey, it's what you do with design flaws like that!!!
I installed a 6.9/C6 in a 1953 IHC R120. The 6.9 was a constant source of leaking. Repairs never lasted. I retired the truck with the engine after I got a warning ticket from the environment police. The dipstick was always a problem. I remember fixing oil-cooler leaks a few times. Another area of failure was the bi-metal swath for the glow-plug circuit. I gave up fixing this sensor after burning our several sets of glow plugs. The 6.9 was not a good cold engine starter. I used ether for most of the 225,000 miles I drove that truck. A little whiff will do just fine.
LOL. _"The Nickel & Dime phase of life"_ Someone jokingly told me once that FORD stood for "Fix Or Recycle Dilemma"
LMAO!
F.o.r.d=Found On Road Dead
Fucker Only Rolls Downhill
Fix or repair daily
Just finished my "hack job" on the leak.. lol. I had to do the same thing. Thanks man 👍🏿👍🏿
did you have to drain the oil
This is one of those situations, do you spend the time to do this properly or do the best you can and hope for the best, for what it's worth I think I would have gone the same way you did, while I'm not a big fan of rtv if it works than it's fixed
Tried the oring on mine & the flange is not bent & the oring seemed to thick & couldn't get the nut to start so its getting gasket sealer tonight!
Fipg is one of the best Rtv Silicons I have used Toyota makes very high quality RTV @Watch Wes Work
Thank you Wes. Gonna see if you have a video on the oil cooler leak because I think that's where mine is. Only leaks in cold weather and on initial start.
Im chasing oil leaks on my excavator now. Rear main seal on the detroit and doing all the suction and pressures lines on the 3 pumps. Also have a leaking valve body that i really don't want to mess with right now. the dodge just did the oil feed to the turbo and the pan has a few damp spots so Im sure its got a rust pinhole in it. Pans are cheap but its all the work to replace one.
Hope the silicone holds up for you and the diesel leaks were just those hose clamps. Just keep telling yourself a few nickles and dimes is a lot better than a new vehicle payment.
Be careful with the new oil pan. I remember Deboss Garage did a video about a 5.9 Cummins that was ruined by a Dorman oil pan when the paint inside peeled off and clogged the oil pickup screen. I never would have thought of that!
@@WatchWesWork yikes thanks for the info. ill have to check it out.
@@WatchWesWork just sandblast it, no?
Enjoyed your videos.beautifully done.wish more people see and subscribe.
Every truck I have owned is a nickle and dime truck. I am glad I'm not the only one who siliconed my way out of a problem. It should be in the dictionary. Take care Wes
It's not ideal, that's for sure.
The newer vehicles are HD trucks (hunnerd dolla) Just replaced parts for the antilock brakes on my F 150
I find it takes a large number of nickels to fix most things these days, especially a diesel.
@@cyrilhudak4568 you can usually re-solder the ABS controller and fix the issue on fords.
My present truck went from nickel & dime to piles of Benjamins. It’s still way better that the hellacious truck payments.
Spent alot of time fishing that river when I was in High School.
I remember this futile attempt to stop leaks. I installed a 6.9 Diesel in my R120 International. I drove it for 20+ years and about 225,000 miles. Oil leak mitigation was an annual event. I have Cummins now.
And now you replace transmissions instead of oil dipstick o rings. I noticed you said 'a cummins' not 'a dodge'. I wouldn't want to admit it either.
@@blackhatch46 hater
@@half-assedandnotfast3375 Is that an insult? I dont understand inner city slang.
@@blackhatch46 hahaha, shouldn't you be pulling the cab of your 6.4 just to do a head gasket? Power junk
Your drawings are great. I tried a o-ring on mine but it didn't work, flange was bent like yours. Slathered motorcraft gray silicone all over it and it never leaked again. Better than dropping the pan or those $300 kits out there. No shame in that repair.
Like I said, International has a TSB basically saying to use silicone. Seems like a hack job, but it works great.
Well, how about this for a jack job.
I didn't remove the dip stick tube, and ran the nut off with a bungee in place on the tube to keep pressure on the inner o-ring. Used a tooth brush, and a can and a half of brake cleaner to get the threads, the two dimples for the orientation pin, and the surface of the pan where the nut sits surgically clean. I did get a good amount in the oil. I wanted to make sure the oil behind the adaptor was clear and it was clean, as to not contaminate the the sealing surfaces at the base of the threads. Contamination = no seal. After getting it all clean, I applied motorcraft TA-31 sealant to the alignment voids on the adaptor first with the tip of of the nozzle, and made sure to fill the void, and about 3/16" bead to the base of the threads. I then ran the surgically clean factory nut, right back on there, and snugged it down. I let it sit for two hours before filling the oil after dropping it to remove contamination.
No dipstick o-ring needed, no o ring for the inner adapter seal. Just a clean properly prepped surface, some 7.3 silicone, and it's bone dry. Probably a lifetime repair. I'd bet on this over any of these bullshit kits. Total cost, $23 for a tube of the TA-31, and about two and a half hours, mostly waiting for the silicone to set up.
Yeah buddy.
I forgot to mention the squish out around the nut after snugging it down even looks factory.
I'm thinking about making a replacement nut, flanged, with threads all the way down, and dual o-rings that seal on the outside. A very small dab of TA-31 at the engagement dimples before install, and bam.
Sell them for a reasonable $25.
I'm half tempted to get the 3d printer going. Seriously.
That drawing helped, thanks. You may feel like a hack, but that is the best you could do under the circumstances. Dropping that pan sounds like a big job that is just not worth it if you have an alternative.
Yeah the best way to fix it would be to drop the pan. I'd guess that's an 8 hour job. Maybe more.
@@WatchWesWork Not to mention when you drop the pan you may open up another can of worms...been there plenty of times.
Wes I did the same job 6 years ago on my F350 and my flange was mangled...from me trying to tightening to stop the leak , I used RTV and a new nut ....no leaks still .
This one has been fine since I glued it up!
Is it possible that they put a thicker o ring on the inside of the pan and said OK lady???and maybe it did work for a while and swelled causing it to bend??better solution what you did instead of dropping the oil pan!!!good work as usual!!!
9:38 That explains why the service kit includes an inner piece with a much thicker flange.
Did this solve your leaks? Looks like you had oil on the starter and the front part of the transmission. Was the valley clear of oil?
Doing the same repair now, thanks for the tips
When we were kids we used to water ski and swim in the Illinois River with all those carp.
Lets see how the oil pump likes silicon, the more the better, you could have buttered up the outside of the pan too. It's seems every time you fix one problem, another will pop up, it just goes with the territory when working on tired iron. My son's shop got a 4' water mark on the walls, someone opened a spillway, in six hours it was inundated. Have you tried RightStuff, it's pretty good sealant too.
I have used The Right Stuff. It works great. I use it to seal up coolant guards.
Another great video Wes! Carp… it’s what’s for dinner! 😂
Next time I'm going to fab a patch with the tube receiver and tig it on the side of the pan. One of the worst ideas I've seen that made it into production was this bronze adapter instead of a different pan for vans.
That fuel leak could be coming from the return lines. Had to change mine, but ended doing both of them
Nice job, did you have to drain the oil after all? Any issue with leaks so far ? Gonna do mines same way
Having the same issue and was curious about if you had to drain any or all of the oil.
sometimes we just have to adapt....in a perfect world the repair kit would have been fine. i get what you are saying about it not feeling right. i struggle with the same thing at times....i have a problem not doing it properly regardless of the time and cost.
According to International this is the right way to do it. But, that's coming from the bastards who came up with this stupid design in the first place.
yaay! i remember those carp
at GREAT LAKES, ILLINOIS
massive on the creeks...plus
those giant snapping turtles.
dont like glue but it was a good save can it hold wheels on too
Do the instructions say to put the sealant on the INSIDE? I would be afraid it would just peal away and get in the pickup screen because you can't clean the inside of the pan of oil.
Good effective repair, possibly the old O-ring is a larger section size, and was cut to fit?.
Hope the water level stays below danger line.
Kinds bad idea to use a cut to fit o-ring inside the engine where is can fall off
Dave Kersey Sept 12 2020 Cam sensor Have a 1996 f-250 73l Was a TSB on depth of sensor in block ford had a TSB that added one or two shims to back it from the cam. Now they make two different sensors. If that didn't work there sugestion is to replace the cam.. I used the shim and got it to work. Have you run into this ? Dave Vietnam vet 82 yrs old.Thanks
How do you like those hantek amp clamps? I've got the lower current one and have considered buying the higher current one. Only issue I've noticed with the lower current one is that the power/current-range switch is a bit fiddly. Lol, yeah, the oring swelled and bent the flange...
Thank you again Wess.
I installed this kit 2 months ago and didn’t use nearly enough silicone and it’s leaking worse now lol guess I’m going in for round 2 🤦🏼♂️
How is that every part in USA comes with the pictures and instructons? i have never seen that on any part in EU... ? is there any regulation for that?
Your video had a mustie 1 feel to it at the end watching nature.
Nice bro. Bravo Bravo Big help thank you love it
I kinda copied there kit but bought a new ford nut and flange plus used a bung gasket I "borrowed" from work with the grey ford silicone.
Can't wait for your videos great job
If silicone is a hack then every modern engineer is a hack, all the modern shit i work on has most the engine covers and pans siliconed on, gone are the days of gaskets, i have done this on 7.3s using the motorcraft silicone and it usually works good.
I might be missing something here but couldn't you drop the oil pan and replace the nut?
Either way same result so doesn't matter.
I'm just curious
It’s a pretty major job to remove the oil pan. He mentions you can do it with removing the engine, but you do have to remove the transmission.
Toyota brand is good. I like the right stuff the best. Also don’t ever let the right stuff freeze. If it does it’s junk.
The top bolt on the starter is no picnic getting started either, I have one in my F-350 .
FYI my son in law worked in the industry making seal that seal you replaced had a glue joint that's where it separated they since found a way to mold them solid no joints all one piece every o ring had to be glued and go into a heated iron for a hour one at a time how arkaioc
The kit it’s worth the money or rather pay over 1k to fix? I just came across this problem
I was taught back in 1968 "tight and you can get it by hand".
Wes, what do some say about the negative effects prefilling the oil filter with oil?
Never heard that before.
The theory is that it's better to let the oil be pumped through the filter to remove any crud before it goes to wherever it needs to go. In my opinion, if there is that mush crud in brand new oil, we've got much bigger problems than filling the oil filter. I know Cat filters specifically will tell you not to fill them. I've done it thousands of times.
Wes Johnson Services is the purpose of refilling them to minimize the time the engine runs with no oil?
Yes Volcker. I think it's better to have oil pressure sooner than to worry about the tiny amount of crud in the oil. Especially on the diesel engines where the filter is very large and holds a lot of oil. However, many newer engines are using cartridge filters that cannot really be pre-filled. So, maybe it's a moot point.
That's a rule for fuel filters but I've never heard of that for oil. When I have no choice but to pre fill a fuel filter I always try to only pour it in the "dirty" side of the filter.
You would think filling a brand new filter with brand new oil word he fairly safe. I think they are refering to the retards who reuse their oil filter and just swap the oil lol.
Do you have to drain the oil prior to swapping this? Or will it sit low enough in the pan?
Wes o rings don't swell in oil. What they did is replace that o ring with a heavier one and tightened the hell out of it breaking it and bending the nut and internal part. Ford with a better Idea?
What size oring is the actual dipstick tube?
I don’t know why you feel bad about the repair. You were handed a bucket of crap. Obviously someone really over tightened that flange. You did your best, nice work.
The worst part design I've seen on the 7.3 too date. Started to try to fix mine and yes, ' the inside part fell into the oil pan"! I guess I'm going on a fishing expedition now? Hope I can fish it out?
silicone has its usage and if it seals the leak so be it done its job
Update? Does it leak or is it still good?
Still dry!
Maybe a little Hackie but if that is the service instructions recommends it not really a hack job it is repaired to service specks.
What are u spraying? Is that brake cleaner?
I lucked out and it was the nut unthreading that was causing a major oil leak -- whew.
3bond is good stuff.
Why so thin on the sealant? Smear it on like it owes you money.
It may not be worth $50 in 2019, but now in 03/2022, it's worth $63.73 for the kit.
Good video on explaining it but good god you could at least clean the area better around the dipstick adapter before taking it apart
Do I need to drain the oil or not?
I was always told you had to wait 15 to 20 minutes to let RTV set up a little bit and then go back and tighten it all the way, obviously that's untrue?
That's a good idea. It's not really possible here though since we have RTV on the threads. The big thing is to wait 24 hours for the RTV to cure before refilling the oil.
@@WatchWesWork ok, thanks that makes since...
no mechanics i know actually follow that, but it can't hurt, give it 10
Classic Bigger the Glob the better the Job @Watch Wes Work
Thanks for sharing Wes 👍🇦🇺
Que ases si se me callo la Piesas de adentro del carter
Very Helpful!👍
I believe it is a die cast zinc which will deform over time all on its own.
Yes. I think I said that at some point. Cheap crap IMO.
@@WatchWesWork Yep at least it was not plastic.LOL
@@Labeeman Plastic may have actually works better lol
I wonder if someone put a thicker o ring in there and bent the fitting?
nah they just tightened the shit out the fitting to try and stop the leak.
It's a very bad design using badly thought out parts. The person who designed this should be made to come and personally replace every leaking example of his work.
the day is coming when you will have a sighted self-directing little robot on a stout steel stem that can sneak in behind all the struts and cables and impossibly tight spaces where a gripped hand won't really fit and it will undo all those bolts behind the starter housing and tucked up under the air compressor and in behind the alternator......the guy who invents that take 'em out and put 'em back in bolt/nut/fastener extractor robot is going to be a billionaire
Why should you not pre fill the oil filter?? Who told you that lol
Be very careful using brakleen around engine oils. 1 can of that stuff can contaminate up to 2000L of oil. We aren't allowed to use it in the oil fields anymore as the upgraders are saying it messes with their refining process.
holy snap. thanks for sharing that very interesting. a weird fact i learned in a township meeting, a little gasoline can ruin an aquifer, it moves faster than the water, some lady had a fuel oil delivery but no tank ... but the french drain...
6:39. Best part of the install. 😂🌲🇺🇸💪🏼
You shoukd always put oil in the filters
I always pre-fill the oil filter.
I tied a wire to the handle - just in case.
Why shouldn't you pre-fill an oil filter?
I think almost all mechanics do it
never seen that poor a design on a motor before. I would love to know why its not a tube welded in. like every other sump.
It's a terrible design. They could have at least used steel fittings, or even aluminum. There are weld in fittings available, but you have to remove the oil pan.
@@WatchWesWork love your channel by the way. I am also a machine tool service tech. but living in Australia.
That's cool. What kind of machines are popular in Australia?
@@WatchWesWork haas and mazak lathes and vertical mills are the better ones but lots of shit out of china with fanuc controls and drives . due to local manufacturing going to shit recently moved over to working on wood working machines also. same problems and skill set just replace dealing with coolant and oil with saw dust and grease.
Wes Johnson Services More than one mechanic has had a cussing fit over that design. Been many rear main seals replaced when the real culprit was turbo pedestal seals. Been there a few times.
2 bucks says the starter goes within 6 months
Well it's been almost 8 months and the starter is working fine...
So did it stop the leak?
Yes. No issues after almost a year.