Which bike are riding here mate? I know I should be able to name it (especially since it featured in a strange design vid recently), but for some reason it’s slipped my mind.
@@RoadcraftNottingham Of course. Thank you. Sometimes my brain goes on holiday…!🙄 Allen Millyard has one too. Have you still got your CBX650 Turbo? Oh, and do you know your fellow Nottingham biker @The Crumble ? YT censored him apparently, and he doesn’t post anymore. Ride safe.
Glad to see I'm not the only one that does this! I 'discovered' this technique because salt and mud always make the rear brake feel 'crunchy' and 'snatchy' at low speeds during the winter months.
Russ, I've just got back from your Slow Riding course in Nottingham and just wanted to say thanks for an excellent 2 hours. The introduction of the jellyfish technique to my riding has completely changed my approach and I will be using it when I cover slow riding with Associates doing the IAM Advanced Course.
This is golddust Russ. I have just passed my mod 2 and managed to fall on this method by chance in the absence of any quality input from my instructors. It was great to find your video to validate that this is an acceptable technique (i thought I'd be done for coasting on my test). It makes such a difference. You are one of the reasons why Nottingham test centre has one of the highest pass rates - top quality instruction. Thanks again.
Glad to say its the method I've used since learning how to ride a bike many years ago. My old instructor must been from the same school "instructor training" 1 Point to note is stay relaxed, soon as you tense up this method goes out the window.
This is interesting as I've definitely used this method without consciously thinking about it as traffic has dictated over the years but also used the method of loading up the bike with tension using the rear brake and clutch fighting against each other. Which is the method I teach as an instructor as part of the curriculum here in Australia. I'll try this on students that have difficulties in the figure eight slow ride. Cheers mate!
The one tip that helped me most was look at a point in the distance. Don't focus on the area immediately in front of the bike, pick a point miles off and keep your head up. Mix that with what is said here and you're golden. I never drag the rear brake at walking pace or doing a U turn and I do them daily
when i did my cbt, the instructor told us to use a little bit of back brake so we dont do zigzags while going slow speeds (going left to right). it is a slow speed brake which primarily helps with stability. however, i have done the jellyfish and still sometimes do. i go between the 2 depending on what i feel better with at certain times
This is the way I have always done slow riding ,it's the way I was taught , it is the best method....as the other guy mentioned it is used in trials riding which I used to do . Perhaps more road riders should experience off road riding as they may benefit from off roading skills .
Correct, unfortunately, a lot of instructors teach dragging, simply because its how they were taught and they don't question the methods. Obviously use the rear brake to reduce excess speed. Do what works for you...with much less wear on your bike parts.
I do this for low speed travel on my Firestorm, really suits the big twin which would judder and lurch otherwise, I feather the rear brake very lightly if I need to reduce speed, works well on a bike that hates going slowly😊
I watched another channel - an ex Police rider/instructor in the US. Noticed he was pulsing the throttle on all slow speed manouvres plus cone work where he wasn't even that slow. I hate dragging the back break like my instructor told me - can never get it totally smooth. They also said don't coved the front brakes which just means losing stopping distance as far as I'm concerned. Feel some instructors are set in their ways. That's why I love this channel - seems to keep progressing logical methods.
I think I've been doing this for a while. It's always nice to hear other people who know what they're doing ageing with me. I still consider myself less experienced despite doing getting on for 70k miles since my CBT in 2014. Always learning!
Having just picked up a ZZR600 as hack bike I was just doing this on auto pilot. The thing is I've not ridden regularly for a few years and not enjoyed a bike since my much loved 88 Yamaha FZ600 died 8 years ago. The ZZR is an amazing bike for very little money. Still kept watching your amazing content when not riding, thank you.
Not for the beginner, but I practice a game of staying feet up in traffic queues. The technique of pulsing the throttle is not only useful for the "easy" A license stuff, but for balancing along at below walking pace trying not to put your feet down before the lights go amber ... You can use acceleration and deceleration with offset weight to change the balance of the bike. If the bike is unbalancing left, you can flick the steering left and pulse the throttle, or steering right and jab the front brake, which ever you have the room for. I don't like the brake drag method although I will use it in some situations. I feel it swats the bike down and I always feel as though I'm holding a spring between my fingers and it's likely to go pinging out any moment, if you know what I mean. Playing the balance between two different fricton plate mechanisms, neither of which is particularly easy to back at low speed just sounds like a case of making people learn stuff the hard way.
Hi I passed my cbt recently, but have had problems with my motorbike, finally sorted I hope, so will be getting out on the road again, your technique looks really really good so will give it a try, thanks.
I used this technique on a recent holiday in grand Canaria on tight twisty switch backs as didn’t want to risk going to slow on my hire bike using the back brake. I had not watched your video prior but must agree made me more comfortable.
I agree with this approach. I see them doing this on the slow speed stuff from America. Trouble is in my driver training they even tell me to drag the back brake pulling away at junctions etc. Seems a bit unnecessary.
This is a great technique for slow speed straight line riding, and fits perfectly if you have to sit in a queue for the lights. Use it all the time. However, where I think this technique falters a bit is in slow speed manouvering. To be more specific, especially with bikes with a chain. By going on and off the power all the time, you dont preload the drive train all the time to take up the slack that is in there. That is I think where dragging the back brake can help stabilize the 'twitchiness' of the clutch+throttle and always keep the drive train preloaded in a direction. Another advantage is that your crank is spun up all the time from higher revs, the rotating mass helps with stability at slow speeds due to the gyroscopic effect. Still, I think both should be taught, as both are good techniques, perhaps just with different use cases.
Hi, the chain slack and gyroscopic effect of revving is so small it's negligable.Try over-revving your bike at 2 mph and the gyroscopic effects won't pick you back up. If the chain takeup is affecting slow takeup, then it'll need adjusting. I've had trainees who struggle balancing the dragging technique on the mod 1 test have a eureka moment using this technique.
I used to be a diving instructor, we call this moving with the surge (also like a jellyfish) when the ocean is surging you wait for that movement to be over and then power forwards, then wait. This is exactly the same movement. When I did my CBT the bikes I rode would power with zero throttle just by letting go of the clutch, it was always enough to move you without pull back on the throttle.
I jellyfish in slow moving traffic, including clutch fully out, but for u-turns or tight manoeuvres in lovely gravely car parks I use the feathered clutch plus back brake method.
Yea, makes sense. I have read on owners forums that repeatedly dragging the back brake on DCT Hondas can knacker the clutch in very short order. I had a DCT and enjoyed it, this technique would work. Word to the wise.
I agree. I've had my DCT Goldwing Tour for 4 years and use pretty much this technique. It works really well. After upwards of 25000 miles on the bike I have become well practised and can perform all of the usual slow speed manoeuvres without using the foot brake on almost occasions. Actually in rain and eco modes manoeuvres are easiest and the bike will trickle along quite happily at around walking pace using virtually no throttle at all.
I've been using this technique for as long as I can remember but didn't really think of calling it Jellyfish tbh I didn't think of naming it, oh I've been riding since 1984 by the way. Gr8 videos, I'm all for learning new skills so I watch videos like this to learn new techniques.
@@RoadcraftNottingham Nothing weird about that my fellow rider, tbh I've been told on many occasions that motorcycle riders are weird! When I ask why they think that, I'm told that you must be weird to ride a motorbike in all weather, ride in between vehicles (filtering I tell them) we put ourselves in danger, that bikes are to fast etc etc They just don't get it 🙄 The pleasures of riding a bike in my opinion outweighs all the negative attitude from most people, who happen to be usually cage drivers! Oops sorry car drivers. Ps no offence to car drivers but you know what you say don't you 😉
@@theghizuroi713 ps, I'm also a car driver but prefer to ride bikes 😉 So has a car driver for many years I can anticipate car driver moves when on my bike, as we all know we can only anticipate certain dangers whist riding, as us humans are very easily distracted and can pull off some dangerous & stupid moves when not concentrating 😑 All motorists be safe out on the roads please. 🙏👍
Yep, this is my preferred method as well, borrowed it from how I drive a car with a manual in stop-and-go traffic. And the bike feels happier too compared to dragging the rear brake. Though depends on the bike I guess, my SV hated being anywhere below 4k rpm, whereas the bandit 1250 I had after felt pretty decent when dragging the rear brake.
That's how I manoeuvre my lorry in tight spaces, saves riding the clutch and the brakes, which on a truck not only wears them but can also run you out of air if your doing it for long enough. Not had to do my bike test yet but i hate the thought of anyone telling me to have the bike fighting itself by riding with the brake on and the clutch slipping. :S
Hm. I think this may be best if all you are trying to do is manoeuvre slowly without losing control - and that is a lot more than some riders manage. I definitely do this (and I like your name for it). However, I find that as I push it to try to u turn faster and do other skills associated with moto gymkhana, this approach of coasting has a disadvantage. When you u turn fast you need the front on full lock and the bike leaned over. If you start to tip inwards you need more power straight away - and if you are not already on the biting point there is a tendency to panic and let the clutch out too rapidly. That either leads to a jerk of acceleration and not feeling in control, or, worse, stalling and then dropping the bike. So, I have the bike on the biting point the whole way round, but what I aspire to do is be quick enough to actually have the clutch pretty much completely out.
I have tried different methods but in the end I stick to the method that you use cause I find your method more suitable for me. I tried other method like some other videos would tell you keep it loaded but I don't keep the throttle loaded all the time.
When I instructed trainees on CBT I used to teach both methods of rear brake and no rear brake, personally I prefer this method of not dragging the brake. I didn't think of a name for it but jelly fish seems good.
Never heard of people using rear brake + clutch together. This jellyfish thing is the only thing I've ever done and can't imagine dragging the brake helping at all.
I find it difficult to change and control three things at the same time, because I'm a noob and not very smart. So if i set the revs and clutch, then the only thing i have to worry about is the back brake... That's the basic anyway, but i think everyone then evolves enough touch to make small adjustments. Will definitely be trying to practice this and seeing how i get on.
Actually many noobs find the jellyfish easier as clutch control isn't excellent and they often go too far out with it. This way if you do, you simply pull it back in a little. Have a play. ☺
What about your bodyposition when you’re doing tight and slow u-turns like the ones in the video? I personally find that when I get near full lock on the handlebar I loose a bit of feel with the clutch lever?
@@RoadcraftNottingham Thanks for the videos, interesting approaches and helpful. What is it that makes clutch feel different on left and right lock? Is it the cable being tensioned and does it apply to hydraulic clutches as well?
@@KKLLMM8 it's your hand position. Make a fist then open and close with your arm close then extend, you'll feel the difference. Like thicker gloves change the bite point too.
This is what I do to stay slow in a straight line, but personally I'd never do this for a U-turn. I wouldn't feel in control coasting while leaning over, and doing one U-turn once in a while won't harm my clutch. I might give it a go to see how it feels, but my gut instinct is that there's a good reason people are taught *not* to coast in a turn even though many newbies do that instinctually
Fair point, sometimes it's what you're used to and comfy with. I now say "clutch to go, brake to slow" and remember, slipping your clutch is still driving whilst on a u turn, not coasting but it's a fine line for sure .
The reason we teach people not to fully declutch in a U turn is because they will end up putting a foot down as the bike starts to tip. They need power to get them through the manoeuvre. Also bear in mind that what works for an experienced or advanced rider isn't necessarily a good technique to teach a novice.
I think that is more or less what I do anyway, I find the back brake method awkward anyway unless perhaps I am going slightly faster. The combined braking on the CB 125 F seems more difficult somehow!
@@RoadcraftNottingham Ah ha- seriously though, any different approach to very slow riding is welcome. By the way, do you still have your 2 stroke 50's ( apologies if I am confusing you with someone else). Kind regards
I tend to switch between dragging and non dragging depending on the situation. Now I'm doing IAM the advocate dragging. I have just changed to an air-cooled bike with dry clutch (V85TT) so I think jellyfish may be more mechanically sympathetic, but I know my instructor willl want me to drag the rear brake
That's the problem I often see, some almost insisting on dragging. Last year I did a slow riding workshop for a branch of the iam and one lady who couldn't ride slowly managed many U turns and was transformed. Do what works for you and ask the question "am I in control?".. That should be enough.
Hi , your videos are always good , can I ask what’s your thoughts on these American videos where they find the bite point of the clutch and lean the bike over looking where they want to go and using the back break. Do you think it’s a good skill to have ?
That's the dragging brake system I'm mentioning. All versions are worth trying to find out what suits you best. I've mentioned the drawbacks in my upload, take a look. ☺
Hi Russ, 😄Love the video, Quality tips as usual 😉 I have been doing this for a while now, glad i am doing it right (like the name Jellyfish) 🤣 I sometimes purposely stay behind traffic when its moving slow just to practice the slow moving stuff. stay safe and safe ride Kev
Whats difficult for me is the balance issue like trying to have both feet up when your staying still for 2 seconds before traffic goes again. And because bikes can accelerate or coast faster than cars can you can coast behind a car very closely in a slow 3mph traffic jam without realizing it.
Your council weed maintenance looks as bad as Traffords haha. I use this method quite a lot, my XVS is a very stable bike at low speeds anyway but using this method is much more smooth than dragging the brake for me
I couldn't find the clutch or make any noise on my Zero. But this is basically what I do on the Zero because the rear brake is so terrible, warped, grabby, and pulsy. Without the rear brake it's the nicest low speed bike I've ridden.
I passed my test back in 2014 with the help of your videos getting my bike licence has been the best thing I've done and alot of the stuff I leanrt from your videos have keep me out of trouble just want to say thanks again big man from scotland
Remember to experiment. There are many ways to achieve the same result, you'll find what suits you best. Enjoy.
Which bike are riding here mate? I know I should be able to name it (especially since it featured in a strange design vid recently), but for some reason it’s slipped my mind.
@@G58 it's a 1996 Honda ST 1100 Pan European
@@RoadcraftNottingham Of course. Thank you. Sometimes my brain goes on holiday…!🙄 Allen Millyard has one too. Have you still got your CBX650 Turbo? Oh, and do you know your fellow Nottingham biker @The Crumble ? YT censored him apparently, and he doesn’t post anymore.
Ride safe.
This technique is specially useful on motorcycles with dry clutches, it is very similar to what I do on my Moto Guzzi at low speeds.
Glad to see I'm not the only one that does this! I 'discovered' this technique because salt and mud always make the rear brake feel 'crunchy' and 'snatchy' at low speeds during the winter months.
Russ, I've just got back from your Slow Riding course in Nottingham and just wanted to say thanks for an excellent 2 hours. The introduction of the jellyfish technique to my riding has completely changed my approach and I will be using it when I cover slow riding with Associates doing the IAM Advanced Course.
@@AlanRycroft-d7q Thanks for the great feedback Alan, means a lot. Have fun. 👍
This is Keith from yesterday Russel. Just been praticing good clutch control on Morrisons nice big empty car park 😊
Next time I’m on the bike I’ll be trying this technique out. Never to old to learn in life. Something my father always told me.
This is golddust Russ. I have just passed my mod 2 and managed to fall on this method by chance in the absence of any quality input from my instructors. It was great to find your video to validate that this is an acceptable technique (i thought I'd be done for coasting on my test). It makes such a difference. You are one of the reasons why Nottingham test centre has one of the highest pass rates - top quality instruction. Thanks again.
Glad to say its the method I've used since learning how to ride a bike many years ago. My old instructor must been from the same school "instructor training" 1 Point to note is stay relaxed, soon as you tense up this method goes out the window.
Same here - it's intuitive. Manual trans cars are driven the same way in a parking lot. Bit of power, then coast. No need to hold the brake.
This is interesting as I've definitely used this method without consciously thinking about it as traffic has dictated over the years but also used the method of loading up the bike with tension using the rear brake and clutch fighting against each other. Which is the method I teach as an instructor as part of the curriculum here in Australia. I'll try this on students that have difficulties in the figure eight slow ride. Cheers mate!
Great video, and so good to hear him using the correct terms like rider and riding instead of what the police use driver and driving of the bike!
The one tip that helped me most was look at a point in the distance. Don't focus on the area immediately in front of the bike, pick a point miles off and keep your head up. Mix that with what is said here and you're golden.
I never drag the rear brake at walking pace or doing a U turn and I do them daily
when i did my cbt, the instructor told us to use a little bit of back brake so we dont do zigzags while going slow speeds (going left to right). it is a slow speed brake which primarily helps with stability. however, i have done the jellyfish and still sometimes do. i go between the 2 depending on what i feel better with at certain times
This is the way I have always done slow riding ,it's the way I was taught , it is the best method....as the other guy mentioned it is used in trials riding which I used to do .
Perhaps more road riders should experience off road riding as they may benefit from off roading skills .
Very true. Much like in cycling - mountain bike skills transfer very well to the road.
Mix and Match! Works well.. Thanks.
I'm a new rider and this is what I do even though my instructor told me to use my back brakes a lot more. I just dint feel I need to as much.
Correct, unfortunately, a lot of instructors teach dragging, simply because its how they were taught and they don't question the methods. Obviously use the rear brake to reduce excess speed. Do what works for you...with much less wear on your bike parts.
Never seen that method...that's one for trying out now.. cheers mate..
I do this for low speed travel on my Firestorm, really suits the big twin which would judder and lurch otherwise, I feather the rear brake very lightly if I need to reduce speed, works well on a bike that hates going slowly😊
I watched another channel - an ex Police rider/instructor in the US. Noticed he was pulsing the throttle on all slow speed manouvres plus cone work where he wasn't even that slow.
I hate dragging the back break like my instructor told me - can never get it totally smooth. They also said don't coved the front brakes which just means losing stopping distance as far as I'm concerned.
Feel some instructors are set in their ways.
That's why I love this channel - seems to keep progressing logical methods.
I think I've been doing this for a while. It's always nice to hear other people who know what they're doing ageing with me. I still consider myself less experienced despite doing getting on for 70k miles since my CBT in 2014. Always learning!
Thanks for the compliment and watching. ☺
Having just picked up a ZZR600 as hack bike I was just doing this on auto pilot. The thing is
I've not ridden regularly for a few years and not enjoyed a bike since my much loved 88 Yamaha FZ600 died 8 years ago. The ZZR is an amazing bike for very little money.
Still kept watching your amazing content when not riding, thank you.
Not for the beginner, but I practice a game of staying feet up in traffic queues. The technique of pulsing the throttle is not only useful for the "easy" A license stuff, but for balancing along at below walking pace trying not to put your feet down before the lights go amber ... You can use acceleration and deceleration with offset weight to change the balance of the bike. If the bike is unbalancing left, you can flick the steering left and pulse the throttle, or steering right and jab the front brake, which ever you have the room for.
I don't like the brake drag method although I will use it in some situations. I feel it swats the bike down and I always feel as though I'm holding a spring between my fingers and it's likely to go pinging out any moment, if you know what I mean. Playing the balance between two different fricton plate mechanisms, neither of which is particularly easy to back at low speed just sounds like a case of making people learn stuff the hard way.
Hi I passed my cbt recently, but have had problems with my motorbike, finally sorted I hope, so will be getting out on the road again, your technique looks really really good so will give it a try, thanks.
Great tip.
I'm going to try this.
Everyday is a schoolday.
Thanks
I used this technique on a recent holiday in grand Canaria on tight twisty switch backs as didn’t want to risk going to slow on my hire bike using the back brake. I had not watched your video prior but must agree made me more comfortable.
AHH I've been doing that for years I'm pleased it has been named. I do like your tips and advice it's good to refresh from time to time.
I agree with this approach. I see them doing this on the slow speed stuff from America. Trouble is in my driver training they even tell me to drag the back brake pulling away at junctions etc. Seems a bit unnecessary.
This is a great technique for slow speed straight line riding, and fits perfectly if you have to sit in a queue for the lights. Use it all the time.
However, where I think this technique falters a bit is in slow speed manouvering. To be more specific, especially with bikes with a chain. By going on and off the power all the time, you dont preload the drive train all the time to take up the slack that is in there. That is I think where dragging the back brake can help stabilize the 'twitchiness' of the clutch+throttle and always keep the drive train preloaded in a direction. Another advantage is that your crank is spun up all the time from higher revs, the rotating mass helps with stability at slow speeds due to the gyroscopic effect.
Still, I think both should be taught, as both are good techniques, perhaps just with different use cases.
Hi, the chain slack and gyroscopic effect of revving is so small it's negligable.Try over-revving your bike at 2 mph and the gyroscopic effects won't pick you back up. If the chain takeup is affecting slow takeup, then it'll need adjusting. I've had trainees who struggle balancing the dragging technique on the mod 1 test have a eureka moment using this technique.
I used to be a diving instructor, we call this moving with the surge (also like a jellyfish) when the ocean is surging you wait for that movement to be over and then power forwards, then wait. This is exactly the same movement. When I did my CBT the bikes I rode would power with zero throttle just by letting go of the clutch, it was always enough to move you without pull back on the throttle.
Advise for bikes that need throttle to power during the 567 clutch?
I jellyfish in slow moving traffic, including clutch fully out, but for u-turns or tight manoeuvres in lovely gravely car parks I use the feathered clutch plus back brake method.
Yea, makes sense. I have read on owners forums that repeatedly dragging the back brake on DCT Hondas can knacker the clutch in very short order. I had a DCT and enjoyed it, this technique would work. Word to the wise.
I agree. I've had my DCT Goldwing Tour for 4 years and use pretty much this technique. It works really well. After upwards of 25000 miles on the bike I have become well practised and can perform all of the usual slow speed manoeuvres without using the foot brake on almost occasions. Actually in rain and eco modes manoeuvres are easiest and the bike will trickle along quite happily at around walking pace using virtually no throttle at all.
Thanks Russ. I'll try this. I've always found ballancing the rear brake/clutch/throttle to be really inconsistent
Oh neat! I learnt to do this a few weeks after my CBT while waiting in traffic 😂
I've been using this technique for as long as I can remember but didn't really think of calling it Jellyfish tbh I didn't think of naming it, oh I've been riding since 1984 by the way. Gr8 videos, I'm all for learning new skills so I watch videos like this to learn new techniques.
I just named it jellyfish because people think in pictures. I use my hand to show how a jellyfish propels 😆..yes I'm weird.
@@RoadcraftNottingham Nothing weird about that my fellow rider, tbh I've been told on many occasions that motorcycle riders are weird! When I ask why they think that, I'm told that you must be weird to ride a motorbike in all weather, ride in between vehicles (filtering I tell them) we put ourselves in danger, that bikes are to fast etc etc
They just don't get it 🙄
The pleasures of riding a bike in my opinion outweighs all the negative attitude from most people, who happen to be usually cage drivers! Oops sorry car drivers.
Ps no offence to car drivers but you know what you say don't you 😉
@@stargazerMS1 I am a car driver and I agree with you. That's why I need my full A ASAP. ✌️
@@theghizuroi713 Hope you get your 'A' Licence soon pal 😁
@@theghizuroi713 ps, I'm also a car driver but prefer to ride bikes 😉
So has a car driver for many years I can anticipate car driver moves when on my bike, as we all know we can only anticipate certain dangers whist riding, as us humans are very easily distracted and can pull off some dangerous & stupid moves when not concentrating 😑
All motorists be safe out on the roads please. 🙏👍
Excellent way to go slowly.🤓🏍️
Excellent technique presented well. Thanks for sharing.
Thankyou.
I also use this method! Serves me well, I feel oddly smug knowing that I was accidentally being brilliant 😅
😂 Nice one! Well done you. ☺
It’s also my fave cafe, in fact I was there today. Being a Saturday, it was a tad busier though 😀
Yep, this is my preferred method as well, borrowed it from how I drive a car with a manual in stop-and-go traffic. And the bike feels happier too compared to dragging the rear brake. Though depends on the bike I guess, my SV hated being anywhere below 4k rpm, whereas the bandit 1250 I had after felt pretty decent when dragging the rear brake.
That's how I manoeuvre my lorry in tight spaces, saves riding the clutch and the brakes, which on a truck not only wears them but can also run you out of air if your doing it for long enough. Not had to do my bike test yet but i hate the thought of anyone telling me to have the bike fighting itself by riding with the brake on and the clutch slipping. :S
Hm. I think this may be best if all you are trying to do is manoeuvre slowly without losing control - and that is a lot more than some riders manage. I definitely do this (and I like your name for it).
However, I find that as I push it to try to u turn faster and do other skills associated with moto gymkhana, this approach of coasting has a disadvantage. When you u turn fast you need the front on full lock and the bike leaned over. If you start to tip inwards you need more power straight away - and if you are not already on the biting point there is a tendency to panic and let the clutch out too rapidly. That either leads to a jerk of acceleration and not feeling in control, or, worse, stalling and then dropping the bike.
So, I have the bike on the biting point the whole way round, but what I aspire to do is be quick enough to actually have the clutch pretty much completely out.
I have tried different methods but in the end I stick to the method that you use cause I find your method more suitable for me. I tried other method like some other videos would tell you keep it loaded but I don't keep the throttle loaded all the time.
Certainly worth trying other methods and pick what works for you.
I didn't realise it had a name but I've always used this method.
When I instructed trainees on CBT I used to teach both methods of rear brake and no rear brake, personally I prefer this method of not dragging the brake. I didn't think of a name for it but jelly fish seems good.
MINE! 😂... ok, you can "borrow" it 😉...Many things I've picked up have been thanks to watching many different instructors.
Never heard of people using rear brake + clutch together. This jellyfish thing is the only thing I've ever done and can't imagine dragging the brake helping at all.
It's commonly taught in the DVSA and you'll be marked down for NOT teaching this technique which I've argued against.
I find it difficult to change and control three things at the same time, because I'm a noob and not very smart. So if i set the revs and clutch, then the only thing i have to worry about is the back brake...
That's the basic anyway, but i think everyone then evolves enough touch to make small adjustments.
Will definitely be trying to practice this and seeing how i get on.
Actually many noobs find the jellyfish easier as clutch control isn't excellent and they often go too far out with it. This way if you do, you simply pull it back in a little. Have a play. ☺
What about your bodyposition when you’re doing tight and slow u-turns like the ones in the video?
I personally find that when I get near full lock on the handlebar I loose a bit of feel with the clutch lever?
I thought I'd mentioned that, if not, apologies and yes, left lock feels different on the clutch to right lock. Experiment with body and arm position.
Loose?
@@RoadcraftNottingham Thanks for the videos, interesting approaches and helpful. What is it that makes clutch feel different on left and right lock? Is it the cable being tensioned and does it apply to hydraulic clutches as well?
@@KKLLMM8 it's your hand position. Make a fist then open and close with your arm close then extend, you'll feel the difference. Like thicker gloves change the bite point too.
This is what I do to stay slow in a straight line, but personally I'd never do this for a U-turn. I wouldn't feel in control coasting while leaning over, and doing one U-turn once in a while won't harm my clutch. I might give it a go to see how it feels, but my gut instinct is that there's a good reason people are taught *not* to coast in a turn even though many newbies do that instinctually
Fair point, sometimes it's what you're used to and comfy with. I now say "clutch to go, brake to slow" and remember, slipping your clutch is still driving whilst on a u turn, not coasting but it's a fine line for sure .
The reason we teach people not to fully declutch in a U turn is because they will end up putting a foot down as the bike starts to tip. They need power to get them through the manoeuvre. Also bear in mind that what works for an experienced or advanced rider isn't necessarily a good technique to teach a novice.
I currently do what I call the motorway police stop technique .. wave all over the lane at 2mph lol.
I think that is more or less what I do anyway, I find the back brake method awkward anyway unless perhaps I am going slightly faster. The combined braking on the CB 125 F seems more difficult somehow!
Just seen the E-type in the opening. Must watch the rest shortly.
😅😅😅 It's downhill from there, trust me 😂
@@RoadcraftNottingham Ah ha- seriously though, any different approach to very slow riding is welcome. By the way, do you still have your 2 stroke 50's ( apologies if I am confusing you with someone else). Kind regards
@@nickbitten9910 yes I still have my rd50m, mb5 and Fs1e.
@@RoadcraftNottingham yee haa. Big respect there. I still treasure my
"Funky Mopeds" book. Reminds me of some good times as a youngster. Ride safe.
I think the rear brake thing is a crutch, smoothing out / damping rapid clutch release
I tend to switch between dragging and non dragging depending on the situation. Now I'm doing IAM the advocate dragging. I have just changed to an air-cooled bike with dry clutch (V85TT) so I think jellyfish may be more mechanically sympathetic, but I know my instructor willl want me to drag the rear brake
That's the problem I often see, some almost insisting on dragging. Last year I did a slow riding workshop for a branch of the iam and one lady who couldn't ride slowly managed many U turns and was transformed. Do what works for you and ask the question "am I in control?".. That should be enough.
@@RoadcraftNottingham I totally agree, problem comes at test time....
Hi , your videos are always good , can I ask what’s your thoughts on these American videos where they find the bite point of the clutch and lean the bike over looking where they want to go and using the back break. Do you think it’s a good skill to have ?
That's the dragging brake system I'm mentioning. All versions are worth trying to find out what suits you best.
I've mentioned the drawbacks in my upload, take a look. ☺
Hi Russ, 😄Love the video, Quality tips as usual 😉
I have been doing this for a while now, glad i am doing it right (like the name Jellyfish) 🤣
I sometimes purposely stay behind traffic when its moving slow just to practice the slow moving stuff.
stay safe and safe ride
Kev
I'd call it "a quick squirt" 😂
Whats difficult for me is the balance issue like trying to have both feet up when your staying still for 2 seconds before traffic goes again. And because bikes can accelerate or coast faster than cars can you can coast behind a car very closely in a slow 3mph traffic jam without realizing it.
This is how we always did it back in the day. It’s actually a trials method.
Fantastic video. What advice would you give to people with dry clutches?
Same advice, kinder on the clutch
The bite point on my bike isn't powerful enough to propel the bike forward I always have to use a bit of throttle to make it move
Correct, mine too, turn your volume up or hear me say "noise".. That's me opening the throttle. My explanation at 1:33 "revs, a little bit of clutch"
When on enough of a downhill would you just clutch in and back brake?
Only at ultra low speeds, yes, why not. ☺
Taught, clutch and brake, as to say to others you are doing something other then going straight ahead.
Where is your head check on you U turn ?
The cam isn't on my helmet.
Got a grom 124cc
speedometer is wrong gps 30mph on the grom reads 24mph
Keep to the speed but now Should I ride 34mph
Thanks
If the sat nav says it you can adjust. My grom under reads too
What are you doing with the throttle during this?
When I say "noise" I'm setting the throttle a little higher. Have a listen
@@RoadcraftNottingham perfect, thanks
Your council weed maintenance looks as bad as Traffords haha. I use this method quite a lot, my XVS is a very stable bike at low speeds anyway but using this method is much more smooth than dragging the brake for me
Presumably DCT riders call it the kangaroo technique?😂
Your clutch in oil ? Silly man, k75rt have dry clutches 😂
Or Ducati, makes it even worse. ☺
@@RoadcraftNottingham true brother, true
I couldn't find the clutch or make any noise on my Zero.
But this is basically what I do on the Zero because the rear brake is so terrible, warped, grabby, and pulsy.
Without the rear brake it's the nicest low speed bike I've ridden.
I passed my test back in 2014 with the help of your videos getting my bike licence has been the best thing I've done and alot of the stuff I leanrt from your videos have keep me out of trouble just want to say thanks again big man from scotland
That's great to hear and thanks for sticking with me. Cheers.
@@RoadcraftNottingham never to big or cleaver to learn something new lol .