Since you mentioned all the distinct historical styles, digging in to specific styles would make great videos! ;) I really appreciate all your effort and hard work, I've learned a lot from you and enjoyed putting it into practice!!
A simple softening of the corner is my preferred corner on smaller simple projects where as for larger projects a 45 degree is my preference especially on overhanging edges. Sharp corners, in my experience, can tend to splinter along the grain and the splinters will either ruin a shirt or slide under a fingernail plus damage the look of the piece, no-one wants a wedge missing from a piece they've spent a lot of time on.
Excellent “lecture,” Professor Wright! This video was filled with many helpful ideas, all of which are very useful. So thank you! And my corners thank you!
Damn, now I got an urge to make a moulding plane cutter cutting jig for my rotating multitool and I already have too many things on my have-to-do, kind-of-should-do, and neat-to-do lists. The overall idea is a small vice in a container for water and the multitool held in a 2:1 or 3:1 panthograp for more accurate control.
Sounds like you need a roundtoit. Assign each one to a specific project or issue and when someone, such as your own self, questions why it is not done you can just point to it - AKA pointtoit - and get back to whatever the hell you were doing before you were so rudely interrupted. Ah, life's simple.
Something that I haven't been able to wrap my mind around is how the angle of the grind effects the shape of the profile when it's actually in the plane... the context being making my own profiles.
Have you ever used a cornering tool? They are similar to combo wrenches in that they can come in sets and have cutters on both ends that are different sizes. Very simple tool but makes a much more repeatable corner shape than a block plane does. They are just for breaking the corners, no fancy shapes or chamfer, but the are fast if that's all you want to do.
Another useful video. Always learning loads I was lucky two recently get a load of Old moulding planes , from gentleman who they were his dads he was a cabinet maker also I had about 30 of them, but he reckons must’ve thrown loads out when he was clearing this shit over Covid gutted we store these ones and so on but will try to use one find out the moles they create
when i saw the title i thought you were going to talk about using carving and such to accent a piece. like putting a celtic corner carving on the corner of the box...corner
they are a new product by REED planes. they are curently on back order but the next batch should be coming out in the next cople weeks. here is a video on them: czcams.com/video/g4jhLOeFgpc/video.html and here is where they are offered: www.woodbywright.com/shop/reed-bronze-knobs
In the past my misadventures with hand tools resulted in among other injuries, a torn thumbnail while trying to use a handsaw. I prefer using power tools because of those experiences. But strangely enough, since subscribing to, and watching your videos I am willing to try hand tools again. Mainly a small manageable hand plane, now that I know that they need to be sharpened properly before the first use. By the way, how do those specialty planes work with really hard hardwoods? I'm very curious about how they would cope with the local woods here in Guyana (purpleheart is one of our local woods).
Stop making me want a 55, James... I am curious whether anyone has assembled a list of Stanley that work with the Veritas combo plane--what can one get away with?
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks, I believed it to be a similar design, but never seen a bead cutter for it. I might need to get a file out and see what I can do
an ogee is a reversing curve. one portion is convex and one is concave. The corner I cut with the 55 is a traditional ogee. a roman ogee has a rabbet to start it into the first curve. www.google.com/search?q=roman+ogee&rlz=1C1ASVA_enUS826US826&oq=Roman+ogee&aqs=chrome.0.0i512l10.784j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
No 55? One plane to rule them all, one plane to find them, One plane to bring them all, and in the darkness bind them; In the Land of Mordor where the shadows lie. LOL.
But what you failed to explain is how to make the corner pattern match cross-grain to with the grain cuts... i.e. making the corners come together at the corner.
The approaches you've shared all work well while working on the long grain of the wood. I've never had a lot of success with hand cut moldings on the edge grain, however, except for chambers and roundcovers with the block or smoothing plane. Any suggestions? Or maybe a video describing your technique. Thank you.
Are we really calling them corners? The corners are where the edges and ends meet, and we need a different term for where the edges and faces meet (and the ends and faces): because for the rest of the world, those are edges, not corners.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo It’s peculiar. Sellers uses the term “arris” sometimes, and nobody knows what he’s talking about, because it has never caught on. Do beams with four equal sides also have faces and edges?
Those Stanley 55's sure do give you an edge
That is some CRAZY forced perspective around 2:15! The #4 looks enormous!
Quoting Quin warms my heart 🤗
Since you mentioned all the distinct historical styles, digging in to specific styles would make great videos! ;)
I really appreciate all your effort and hard work, I've learned a lot from you and enjoyed putting it into practice!!
Yep , waiting for my new combination plane blades to come in my mail 😊 I can't wait to do some corners ☺️.
A simple softening of the corner is my preferred corner on smaller simple projects where as for larger projects a 45 degree is my preference especially on overhanging edges. Sharp corners, in my experience, can tend to splinter along the grain and the splinters will either ruin a shirt or slide under a fingernail plus damage the look of the piece, no-one wants a wedge missing from a piece they've spent a lot of time on.
Excellent “lecture,” Professor Wright! This video was filled with many helpful ideas, all of which are very useful. So thank you! And my corners thank you!
Damn, now I got an urge to make a moulding plane cutter cutting jig for my rotating multitool and I already have too many things on my have-to-do, kind-of-should-do, and neat-to-do lists.
The overall idea is a small vice in a container for water and the multitool held in a 2:1 or 3:1 panthograp for more accurate control.
Sounds like you need a roundtoit. Assign each one to a specific project or issue and when someone, such as your own self, questions why it is not done you can just point to it - AKA pointtoit - and get back to whatever the hell you were doing before you were so rudely interrupted. Ah, life's simple.
My corner, my choice :)
Something that I haven't been able to wrap my mind around is how the angle of the grind effects the shape of the profile when it's actually in the plane... the context being making my own profiles.
the angle does not matter as it is bevel down. as long as it is less then the bed angle.
Have you ever used a cornering tool? They are similar to combo wrenches in that they can come in sets and have cutters on both ends that are different sizes. Very simple tool but makes a much more repeatable corner shape than a block plane does. They are just for breaking the corners, no fancy shapes or chamfer, but the are fast if that's all you want to do.
those are great for edging and faced woods, I have not found them all that useful for solid woods.
Good t-shirt! Sarah does have good taste.
Another useful video. Always learning loads I was lucky two recently get a load of Old moulding planes , from gentleman who they were his dads he was a cabinet maker also I had about 30 of them, but he reckons must’ve thrown loads out when he was clearing this shit over Covid gutted we store these ones and so on but will try to use one find out the moles they create
when i saw the title i thought you were going to talk about using carving and such to accent a piece. like putting a celtic corner carving on the corner of the box...corner
Pretty interesting indeed, James! 😃
Thanks a lot for the lesson!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Chamfers forever!
Thanks for the content, James! Love it, as always
I'm on team chamfer all day long!!! I have yet to find a block plane that I enjoy using so I usually do them with my bench planes though.
Just good stuff right here
thank you
James, have you made a video on how to make a molding plane?
Yes. I actually did a live series on one a while ago, where I went through the whole process in depth.
On that one The specific molding plan I made was a dovetail plane. If I remember correctly.
'A comment down below'
Just couldn't help myself townsite. Hehe
Great Video Thank you
So.. Do people add these because they have an acute fear of acute corners, or is it because they want a cute corner?
Cute!
I’m helping!
Love the No.55 its like the Swiss army knife of planes! does anyone know where he got that bronze knob on that Stanley no.4?
they are a new product by REED planes. they are curently on back order but the next batch should be coming out in the next cople weeks.
here is a video on them: czcams.com/video/g4jhLOeFgpc/video.html
and here is where they are offered: www.woodbywright.com/shop/reed-bronze-knobs
In the past my misadventures with hand tools resulted in among other injuries, a torn thumbnail while trying to use a handsaw. I prefer using power tools because of those experiences. But strangely enough, since subscribing to, and watching your videos I am willing to try hand tools again. Mainly a small manageable hand plane, now that I know that they need to be sharpened properly before the first use.
By the way, how do those specialty planes work with really hard hardwoods? I'm very curious about how they would cope with the local woods here in Guyana (purpleheart is one of our local woods).
with really hard woods they work well. you just have to sharpen more often. you also want to take a slightly thinner shaving.
I think you could single handedly resurrect the Roman ogee. It could be 2025's profile of the year.
Stop making me want a 55, James... I am curious whether anyone has assembled a list of Stanley that work with the Veritas combo plane--what can one get away with?
The veritas combination plane is basically a Stanley 45. Anything the 45 can do it can also do. Also all of the cutters are interchangeable
Hi James, do you happen to know if the Record 044 can be used to create beads like the Stanley 50?
sure can. it is basically the same tool.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks, I believed it to be a similar design, but never seen a bead cutter for it. I might need to get a file out and see what I can do
Awesome! Loved the video and it left me wondering, what the heck is a rominoji? It has an impressive name!
It's a Roman ogee, was pretty popular on edges in the 80's.
an ogee is a reversing curve. one portion is convex and one is concave. The corner I cut with the 55 is a traditional ogee. a roman ogee has a rabbet to start it into the first curve. www.google.com/search?q=roman+ogee&rlz=1C1ASVA_enUS826US826&oq=Roman+ogee&aqs=chrome.0.0i512l10.784j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
No 55? One plane to rule them all, one plane to find them, One plane to bring them all, and in the darkness bind them; In the Land of Mordor where the shadows lie. LOL.
But what you failed to explain is how to make the corner pattern match cross-grain to with the grain cuts... i.e. making the corners come together at the corner.
You cut end grain The very same way you cut face grain. You just need to make sure that it is very sharp and take a light cut.
Why do I get a Roy Underhill vibe off this vid lol
I'm surprised there was no mention of scratch stocks.
I thought about adding them as I was editing. I always think of those a bit too late.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo You could add a link to your scratch stock video from a few months back.
Ah....that's why I need a 45 with a full set of irons....and a 55.....and a 50.....oh my.
don't forget the 46!
The approaches you've shared all work well while working on the long grain of the wood. I've never had a lot of success with hand cut moldings on the edge grain, however, except for chambers and roundcovers with the block or smoothing plane. Any suggestions? Or maybe a video describing your technique. Thank you.
That would make a good video. with end grain the keys are to have it crazy sharp and very thin shaving.
Generally I try not to cut corners.
"No one puts ogee in the corner!" ;-)
I wonder how to sharpen those blades. file!? 🤣🤔
Generally a slip stone or sandpaper on a dowel.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo so, no mirror finish here
no need for it. a mirror finish on any tool just makes the user feel good. it does not cut any better.
I never took you for the type to cut corners, James. Guess it's time to unsubscribe. :p
Oh I like that one. thanks man!
Are we really calling them corners? The corners are where the edges and ends meet, and we need a different term for where the edges and faces meet (and the ends and faces): because for the rest of the world, those are edges, not corners.
Semantics are always fun!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo It’s peculiar. Sellers uses the term “arris” sometimes, and nobody knows what he’s talking about, because it has never caught on.
Do beams with four equal sides also have faces and edges?
Been watching @Blondihacks by any chance? 🤔
What would make you think that? Lol
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Chamfers separating us from the animals 😁