Another excellent video with good advice. We all have this idea how the rigs fall through the water but I’d love to see someone filming it, perhaps in a swimming pool, especially bulk and 2 droppers and a strung/tapered rig, plus the effect of holding the back shots tight etc. to slow it down. Assume like me you don’t have your own pool!
Absolutely brilliant for demonstration I am very proactive with my shot patterns weight of hook and bait so much I weigh every thing so the balance is almost perfect I know when on the bank I my just have to add the smallest shot which goes just above hook length
Great vid John, making the dark secret understandable . Maybe some time later can you explain why there are so many shot rating and what the mean.le. 9x14 or 0.20 gr 0.5 etc and why so many types of rating. Because if a pole float is 12x # 8 stot/ shot why is this not the accepted standard by all brands👍
One thing you didn't discuss is line tension. Jamie is obsessed with it magnifying bites. This in relation to depth is massive, and depth makes certain rigs too time consuming.
As a rule the lightest shots go closer to the hook, this prevents tangles and gives a good presentation. Sometimes when you get to the bank you need to add small shot to get your float set just how you want it, these can go with the bulk or under the float. We call.them trimming shot, as in we use them to trim the float down.
I think you mean why small shot for a bulk? Its a good question, small shot are more stream lined, so better for striking through. If you have a heavier float them something called an olivette can be used which is a stream lined weight to save you having to put loads of shots on.
@@AverageAngler Thanks for the response - you're right, I meant the bulk. I've seen videos of pros using 6 x #10 as a bulk and wondered why not 4 x #8 - it's never explained. Thanks again
With respect the shotting description comprised of typical match angler logic...ie. info copied from one individual (who hasn't tested the principle scientifically) and passed on. Try a tank test and you will discover the truth that due to the viscosity of water you don't need shot down stairs to register a bite. Line (more so thick line) curves/snakes through water and only cuts through it if the movement is really slow (crucians do this) or when the resistance (ie the buoyancy of the float tip above the surface) becomes too much. The point being if you shot the float tip down sufficiently you don't need any shot downstairs to register a bite whereby the hookbait is moved with reasonable abruptness!
This cannot be 100% correct, I have watched underwater footage of fish taking baits and swimming a significant distance without ever registering a bite. So if the line alone could register a bite this would not be the case? (Perhaps the supple low diameter lines used with pole rigs reduce this effect?) Also I have personally experienced multiple occasions in which by simply moving my shot closer to the hook I do see many more bites. We match anglers often fish the same swim with different shotted rigs, swapping between them, it is clear that rigs with more shot down the line show bites more positively.
You are 100% correct, if that movement is relatively slow (re the reference to crucians) or if the float tip above the surface is too buoyant to enable the curved line to submerge the float without having to straighten.. In both these instances the float tends to move slowly and barely perceptibly along the surface. I actually developed a deadly crucian tactic based on this (another story). Think of dragging your net through water. Its a lot harder than through air because of the viscosity of the water. Obviously this effect is scaled down massively with a single strand of fishing line but this resistance is certainly enough to submerge a delicately shotted pole float. Incidentally, one thing which surprised me during my experiments is that the shot doesn't really make any difference to bite indication unless it is huge and mostly supported by the float (ie 70% of the floats capacity) The float does lift if a small shot is lifted BUT the reaction on the float is delayed substantially (at least when the bait is on the bottom). With some species, perch, roach, rudd they are likely to still have the bait in their mouths by the time the bite is registered, acknowledged and struck. With other species this is less likely. Some weird things happen underwater. This is just one of several that I didn't expect myself.
Incidentally one thing that I forgot to add. Moving the shot closer to the hook makes changing the natural shape/curvature of the line even harder..thus it is likely to make the float go under with less movement on the part of the fish. Oh and you are correct re really fine lines. These cut across water a lot easier than a thicker line. For instance if I am carp fishing with 15lb mainline and a tiny piece of peacock quill laying on its side (with no shot down the line), I could reliably expect the resistance of the line to cock and then submerge the float when the bait is lifted. With 3lb line this probably wouldn't happen and I'd miss seeing lots of bites or at the best the float would start to cock and then lay flat again.
Excellent demonstration. Very well explained so it all makes sense. Thanks for filming. Tight lines Pete 🎣
Glad you liked it😊👍
Excellent explanation, checking in from across the pond
Thanks for watching 😊👍
That is the best explanation of shotting pole floats ive ever seen well done that man
Thanks Dean🙂👍
Excellent demonstration of the principles of float shotting, well done Sir 👍
Thanks Glynn😊👍
Really clear explanation , thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I have watched many videos on this subject..... this is the best explanation I have seen... brilliant 💡👍
Thanks Martin, a few people have said that😊👍
Excellent demonstration thanks for your vids just started pole fishing and this has been more help than any of the pro vids
What a lovely comment Derek, glad you could take something from the video 😊👍
Good video depth & drift can also come into the equation
There's so many factors could have been a 2 hr video😂🤣😂🤣😂, just trying to help people with the most basic principles...Thanks for watching.
Thx for that John 👍
Prob the best explained vid ive seen for shotting patterns & why you need diff ones 👏👏
Cheers Ste, I think I picked up most of that from watching Ian Heaps doing a talk many years ago.
Another excellent video with good advice. We all have this idea how the rigs fall through the water but I’d love to see someone filming it, perhaps in a swimming pool, especially bulk and 2 droppers and a strung/tapered rig, plus the effect of holding the back shots tight etc. to slow it down. Assume like me you don’t have your own pool!
Wish I did have a pool because that experiment would be top of my list of things to do😊👍
Great vid! Thanks!
Thanks for watching and commenting Dom😊👍
Absolutely brilliant for demonstration I am very proactive with my shot patterns weight of hook and bait so much I weigh every thing so the balance is almost perfect I know when on the bank I my just have to add the smallest shot which goes just above hook length
Wow weigh everything, that's taking it to a new level😊👍
Really good informative video mate on shotting. 👍🐟🏴🇬🇧
Thanks Ernie
new to the pole very help full thank you
No problem Dave, thanks for watching
Very well presented Jon ive learnt a few tip from you, Thank you, happy Christmas and have a tight lines new year
Cheers James thanks for watching have a great new year pal.
Great advice thank you 👍
Thanks for watching John😊👍
Very good informative video 👍
Cheers connor
Great vid John, making the dark secret understandable . Maybe some time later can you explain why there are so many shot rating and what the mean.le. 9x14 or 0.20 gr 0.5 etc and why so many types of rating. Because if a pole float is 12x # 8 stot/ shot why is this not the accepted standard by all brands👍
Hi Rob, check out this video I did a while back explains some of what you asked.czcams.com/video/h88iGNpBEiw/video.html
One thing you didn't discuss is line tension. Jamie is obsessed with it magnifying bites. This in relation to depth is massive, and depth makes certain rigs too time consuming.
True mate, you could go on and on with this subject😊👍
👍 video
Thanks
Great advice. Could you show us your f1 rig setups, float,line,shot, and hooks?
To be honest Ash I rarely fish for F1s so I don't really have anything to show😂😂🤣😂😊👍
@@AverageAngler OK 👍🏼 😅
🎅👍
When making a ring up do you put the heavy shot near the hook and the lighter shot to the float
As a rule the lightest shots go closer to the hook, this prevents tangles and gives a good presentation. Sometimes when you get to the bank you need to add small shot to get your float set just how you want it, these can go with the bulk or under the float. We call.them trimming shot, as in we use them to trim the float down.
Why loads of small shot for a dropper and not just one larger shot?
I think you mean why small shot for a bulk? Its a good question, small shot are more stream lined, so better for striking through. If you have a heavier float them something called an olivette can be used which is a stream lined weight to save you having to put loads of shots on.
@@AverageAngler Thanks for the response - you're right, I meant the bulk. I've seen videos of pros using 6 x #10 as a bulk and wondered why not 4 x #8 - it's never explained. Thanks again
With respect the shotting description comprised of typical match angler logic...ie. info copied from one individual (who hasn't tested the principle scientifically) and passed on. Try a tank test and you will discover the truth that due to the viscosity of water you don't need shot down stairs to register a bite. Line (more so thick line) curves/snakes through water and only cuts through it if the movement is really slow (crucians do this) or when the resistance (ie the buoyancy of the float tip above the surface) becomes too much. The point being if you shot the float tip down sufficiently you don't need any shot downstairs to register a bite whereby the hookbait is moved with reasonable abruptness!
This cannot be 100% correct, I have watched underwater footage of fish taking baits and swimming a significant distance without ever registering a bite. So if the line alone could register a bite this would not be the case? (Perhaps the supple low diameter lines used with pole rigs reduce this effect?) Also I have personally experienced multiple occasions in which by simply moving my shot closer to the hook I do see many more bites. We match anglers often fish the same swim with different shotted rigs, swapping between them, it is clear that rigs with more shot down the line show bites more positively.
You are 100% correct, if that movement is relatively slow (re the reference to crucians) or if the float tip above the surface is too buoyant to enable the curved line to submerge the float without having to straighten.. In both these instances the float tends to move slowly and barely perceptibly along the surface. I actually developed a deadly crucian tactic based on this (another story). Think of dragging your net through water. Its a lot harder than through air because of the viscosity of the water. Obviously this effect is scaled down massively with a single strand of fishing line but this resistance is certainly enough to submerge a delicately shotted pole float. Incidentally, one thing which surprised me during my experiments is that the shot doesn't really make any difference to bite indication unless it is huge and mostly supported by the float (ie 70% of the floats capacity) The float does lift if a small shot is lifted BUT the reaction on the float is delayed substantially (at least when the bait is on the bottom). With some species, perch, roach, rudd they are likely to still have the bait in their mouths by the time the bite is registered, acknowledged and struck. With other species this is less likely. Some weird things happen underwater. This is just one of several that I didn't expect myself.
Incidentally one thing that I forgot to add. Moving the shot closer to the hook makes changing the natural shape/curvature of the line even harder..thus it is likely to make the float go under with less movement on the part of the fish. Oh and you are correct re really fine lines. These cut across water a lot easier than a thicker line. For instance if I am carp fishing with 15lb mainline and a tiny piece of peacock quill laying on its side (with no shot down the line), I could reliably expect the resistance of the line to cock and then submerge the float when the bait is lifted. With 3lb line this probably wouldn't happen and I'd miss seeing lots of bites or at the best the float would start to cock and then lay flat again.