We Built a MODERN IKEA Kitchen! Here's What they DIDN'T Tell Us...
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
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Ahh the fun eccentricities of assembling ikea cabinets. I do appreciate how Studpack shows mistakes, changes, or unknowns and what they did to remedy the situation. The Garondo is looking fantastic!
Garondo.. 🤔 We like it..
@@StudPack Definitely sounds better than Condrage! 😄
What happened to “Garagemajal”?
@@StudPackI have actually used a small piece of flashing bent around my box so I could still adjust them in and out works great for me,GOD BLESS
@@StudPacktry the bending a pice of small flashing it works Great, GOD BLESS
As someone who just installed IKEA cabinets… can’t wait to watch this and see everything I did wrong 😂
What did you learn?
@@ithinkdoyou no big surprises thankfully. I hit a lot of the same pain points, like those little bumpers caused me grief and I had to take them off and go with shims instead.
Shout out to the Kitchens by Rannes channel, his step by step videos should be mandatory watching linked in the IKEA manuals!
No kidding, I already learned a couple things I probably would have overlooked.
@mfiels Thanks. I appreciate the shout-out.
I love how Paul explains everything for the novice viewer like me. He's enthusiastic and interesting. Thanks Paul. You'll probably never read my comment but I had to say it.
Paul is a proper craftsman. No doubt. And if I know Jordan, he'll see your comment, But if he doesn't respond, it's cool. Imagine getting notifications from 600K + subscribers! I know he appreciates the comments big time. However, to reply is a little overwhelming. But always comment! I know they truly appreciate it and it really helps their channel!! 👍
Of course we’ll see your comment 💪🏼 Thanks for the love Silver 👊🏼
That's what got me hooked on the channel. I already knew how to do some things, hell I even taught woodworking at a summer camp one year and helped my dad build a storage shed. (Which we screwed up the foundation on, so it eventually settled and the door can't be opened.) But there's so, _sooo_ much stuff I don't know about building and remodeling and Paul explains it all so well. The channel's entertaining _and_ educational thanks to that. They really deserve more followers than they have.
I love how Paul is always thinking about a project, even after being “done” for the day! Always catching some way to improve.
Paul, I have to say you won the lottery when it comes to son-in-laws. Rad seems like such a chill dude, always smiling, and willing to do the "dangerous" jobs! You're a blessed man with such quality kids.
i like that you are honest about forgetting a step/running into an issue (the side panels). Something everyone has done (more than once) but so many YT's just gloss over.
I appreciate that you guys have been clarifying your sponsorships, partnerships, and support.
If only all CZcams channels were as clear about those. Most aren't.
I always dislike putting refrigerators next to walls because the door usually needs to open more than 90 degrees to have full access to the inside due to the storage in the door blocking the interior.
I would switch the refrigerator and the pantry.
Good point - and if you have a French door refrigerator, you would be screwed. As it is, the slide out drawers next to the open door will not come all the way out easily to clean.
I usually don't care much about design of a home until it comes to the kitchen. For instance, when cooking, most people need access to their fridge and water in a convenient way. I would have put the stove next to the fridge. See, with an oven, you simply "set it and forget it" so you don't need to be next to anything. An oven can be anywhere. Same as a microwave. Arguably, they really just want a flat surface to set something down on immediately when you pull the items out. I see so many of these half-million and million dollar homes with a terrible kitchen designs. The kitchen should be designed to cook in.
@@donhartfieldthe trick to good kitchen design is nothing is more than 3 steps away from the cooking/prep area. I am running through various scenarios for my kitchen. Currently it is essentially a blank slate. I have a stove, a sink and a fridge, and 1 18" drawer pack with counter top, and 1 4' base cabinet. Everything is negotiable because I have access to electric, plumbing, and gas. So I keep playing with designs trying to get the most bang for the buck out of a room that is 11 by 15, but has 2 windows, and 3 doorways. The struggle is real, 😂 keeping it a simple u or l shaped kitchen may be the best layout for it.
You can change the swing on the refrigerator door so you get the >90 degrees, just in case anyone reading your comment isn't aware.
@@BryanBuckley It will not open past 90 or so if there is a wall in the way!
I really appreciate Stud Pack’s commitment to getting the details right, even when that requires making some changes on the fly.
I’ve deal with some contractors that didn’t listen or take any notes during the pre-project walk through that I always insist on doing. It’s usually “no problem” that I hear from them, but then as with virtually all projects (especially remodel projects) there are surprises that crop up during the actual work that require some changes. It is very frustrating when a contractor doesn’t ask before implementing a change that is something easy for them to do, but adversely affects the look of the finished job. In some cases the contractor has agreed to fix it right after I pointed out my issues; other times I’ve either had to pay them T&M to fix it, used a different contractor to fix it, or fixed it myself once they were done. Now that I’m retired, I’m trying to do more of the work on remodel projects myself. It’s slower, but I get what I want. I will say that when I can find a good contractor I stick with them for future projects.
I changed my mind on ikea kitchens after living with one in a house i renovated. (Because my original custom kitchen order from somewhere else during the lockdowns was backordered)...I use my M12 Fuel impact for all the parts and put it on setting 1. Its perfect for not stripping anything but faster then doing it by hand.
Their design for space savings is unreal. You can have drawers in drawers and basically any Customization you could ever think of.
Plus the door faces are cheap and easily replaced if they get damaged for so rental properties thats a huge bonus.
FYI, Roo Glue is made especially for melamine. I built a built-in entertainment center in my previous house out of white melamine, and it worked great.
It actually stick to the melamine surface? I need some of that.
Yes. Roo goo is made for melamine. Works great. @@rogermccaslin5963
@rogermccaslin5963 yes, both the melamine surface and the MDF edges. It takes a bit to fully cure, but it holds incredibly well once it does.
@@mattmilner5935 I looked it up and put a bottle in the shopping cart. I think I'll go ahead and order it. Thanks for the answer.
ROOO!!!! Great stuff for melamine projects!
To keep the adjustability of the adjustable boxes when using spray foam. Put a barrier on fiberglass insulation around the boxes. Then mask off the fiberglass insulation and boxes. The spray foam will make contact with the fiberglass insulation, not the box. Leaving a pliable cushion between the spray foam and boxes.
We did an Ikea kitchen last summer. Paid a little extra to have a rep come in from a company that works strictly with Ikea products. Within 2 hrs completely laid out cabinet design, etc. and placed the order. Could have installed it myself but had so much going on. Same company also has installers as well. Fairly large kitchen and 3 guys put everything together and installed all the cabinets and detail work within 9 hrs. Included clean up and removing all the card board, etc. Ran like a military operation and worth every penny.. As far as the spray foam and boxes go, use 1/4 inch plywood, etc. Put plastic on the side of the wood that will contact the foam and use 2 sided tape to attach to the adjustable box. Once cured, just pull the plywood out. Its a little tricky where the box is attached to the stud. I helped a buddy of mine and this is what we ended up doing. Worked great.
What i learned doing my sektion install was to put any drawer slides and door hardware while the base cabinets were still in pieces. Youre just lining them up with the correct holes on each side. Easier than crouching down and screwing them together once the cabinet is built. Kudos to the comment about the filler pieces for the holes I'm going to purchase those now.
As always stud pack is inspiring, informative and entertaining! Keep up the good work guys !
For the adjustable boxes:
Wrap the box during installation with a bit of fiberglass insulation. This prevents the foam from adhering to the box but still gives you insulation value and allows the box to move in the wall. Quick, easy, and the foam holds the fiberglass from moving after curing.
As a custom cabinet and furniture maker, I absolutely HATE IKEA (and most RTA cabinets), but I get why people use them. Inexpensive, good features, easy to assemble, and somewhat strong enough after they are installed. Maybe it's the maker in me, but I prefer to build my own and get the look and value of a solidly built cabinet that I know is going to last. Even so, you should know that Titebond makes a glue specifically for Melamine that works really well to add a ton of strength to the boxes. (It's even called a melamine adhesive.)
Dang guys, I think I was number 91 for likes when I started the video, 38 minutes later and you're turning close to 1200! love watching you grow, you deserve it!
Paul, I love how you always think 3 steps ahead and back! You never rush through and are a master at your craft! Great job with getting those panels in before rushing to get those doors on. 💪🏽🔨
All said and done, I’ve seen 15 year old IKEA kitchens that are holding up better than customs.
Lots of quirks and returns at times, but they’re great.
The only "problem" is that then you have a cheap Ikea kitchen that everyone else has. Nothing unique or inspiring. Probably not important if you don't plan to sell your house at some point. But for resale value, it might be a factor in anything above average.
I watch a concrete guy on youtube regularly, and he is always wrapping patio cover posts with Foam Expansion Joint. It allows the for safe separation between the 2 materials. So if you wrap the box with it and spray foam around that it would give you the freedom to move the box in and out.
Won’t help for this build, but for those liking to do their own ikea projects
1. Swap the adjustable feet from ikea for Hafele Axilo feet. They come with an adjustment tool that makes leveling after install a snap
2. Swap the included 4mm MDF split backer for your own solid sheet of 4mm mdf. Can get it laminate faced from the store.
3. Those LED instructions to punch through the backer are only for the pax wardrobes as they don’t have the hanging rails. For others you need to go through the top or route the wiring to a corner.
I did mine in 07. Been through 4 kids looking like it now. I assembled and hung them myself. It was really easy for both. I did glue any dowels. I have the tall uppers with glass fronts and maybe 20'of lowers and 16' of uppers and it was around 4K for the white foil finish at the time with all the accessories.
Paul, you are the most understanding dad to all of Jordan's endless demands, such as special lighting in obscure cracks, crevices, corners, nooks and high in the ceilings. New toilet designs that require extensive installation. Showers that require massive slabs of porcelain and heated floors (really), and so much more. I would have reached my limit with my son by now with all the new gadgets and design preferences Jordan must find on the internet and becomes convinced he must have. Maybe that's why I find your videos so compelling. I l also love the way Paul has an answer or workaround for everything.
Half the ideas are Dads 🤣
I worked at a custom cabinet manufacturer that did high end custom work. on the assembly line, I was a base assembler.... I would be able to assemble each box in about 15 seconds.... I'd fly a bunch out as it went down the line for doors, and then guids and drawers (each dept built their parts, drawers, doors, etc...), I would be stacked with a pile of sheet goods and face frames already gone thru build/paint etc... so I would glue the rabbits and then hold up the parts and nail down the back, left/right/bottom, then put in the toe kick and the face frame and send down the line... I could fill the entire line up and have a break waiting for other depts to catch up in about 45 min putting together jobs very quickly.
I’ve said it before I know and you’ll probably not see this comment, but Paul, you are an excellent craftsman. So detailed and very good explanations. Jordan, your place is coming along nicely. All the people complaining and saying it looks cheap, I disagree. I think it looks great and also shows what normal people like me could also afford to do. I’m sure the main house will be super custom one off cabinet job!
Thanks Terrance we really appreciate that!! 👍👊💪
How could _anyone_ say those garage doors from last week's video look cheap? Those things are the nicest looking garage doors I've ever seen! They've got to be just trolling.
@@ManabiLT the ikea cabinets. Not the garage doors
I did my IKEA kitchen seven years ago and it has held up perfectly. It still looks awesome and I particularly like how the drawers open out completely/the soft close hinges/and their organizer pieces that customize the space. It was many trips to the store getting it dialed by it happens to be local to me here in Denver. When you go back to the store make sure and get the white plugs that cover the unused holes on the interiors of the cabinets. You will need a freakin' boatload with all of those cabinets. The finished look is much much better but your thumb will hate you for making it push them all it.
what you do for the adjustable box is? before sprayfoam put a block of wood wrapped in grease paper then you can pull the blocks out after sprayfoam and that will leave you room for adjustable box!
I was thinking something along the same lines but with plastic cling wrap or maybe even just a heavy coat of wax.
my guess was make a cardboard box around the box and leave it in, wouldn't loose any r value, got lots of cardboard laying around and it's easy to form and shape
There's a company that makes a fire resistant cardboard enclosure for electric boxes that provides the recommended air space when using spray foam insulation. A tradesman or supplier might be able to tell you the name and/or buy them.
I was thinking just wrap the existing plastic box in parchment paper or saran wrap or whatever. The foam will stick to the wrap and not the box and should be able to adjust in and out but still be snug enough with the foam to stop any air flow around the box. The plastic wrap should also serve the purpose of keeping foam out of the electrical box.
Surprised we've never actually run into this issue, but @chriscroz's solution sounds like the best low-cost, low-labor solution to me. Super excited to see your low-voltage lighting go live!
Hey Electrician here, Love the videos! ... also for fishing a wire you're spot on! If you want to go a step further tape the wire first so the tape edges wont rub on anything at all when fishing in tight spots.
I have assembled quite a few of these. I have found that long-term, the studs that the cams lock into like to work their way out. The best solution to this is to use wood glue on the dowels and CA glue on all of the stud and screw threads.
Couldn’t agree more. Unless the plan is to disassemble them back to flat in the future, CA & wood glue really helps. Something about the built-up wood for the cabinet carcasses doesn’t lend itself to getting enough friction from the assembly hardware to hold over time, especially if you aren’t going to screw then into the wall somehow.
I still believe in wood glue between the dowel and the interior of the particle board hole. Doesn’t need to grab the melamine if it grabs the particle board and the dowel. Definitely adds strength.
This is the earliest I’ve been to a video but I just wanted to say this whole Garage/ Studio Apartment has turned out so freaking awesome love the work keep it up been here since almost the beginning.
We just finished our Ikea kitchen, so I was really excited to watch what you guys thought of them. The designer printed off the parts list along with the 2D layout for each set of cabinets with exact dimensions...VERY helpful! We had 288 boxes in our living room and totally gutted kitchen. It took us a little bit to fully grasp the construction/feet/rails/etc., but, once we got it we got it! We also added cabinet lights in each drawer (luxury but LOVE them), but our type of kitchen is a bit different than yours and puck lights didn't work with our design. The puck lights in your cabinets look great though!
LOVE your videos!!! We love how your attention to detail trumps out getting the job done quickly. It's nice to see when something went wrong or wasn't planned for, we ALL have had it happen. Your honesty and sincerity is refreshing in this "I am perfect on YT and never do anything wrong" age we live in today.
One of the things I like about the channel, Paul owns his mistakes and always has a solution. Little things like the spacing of the cabinets so doors will open. It’s something IKEA doesn’t explain. But Paul has it covered. Well done Stud Pack. 👍
I did a full ikea kitchen using their software to plan out the build, even did their butcherblock countertops. Measurements all worked out perfectly, it looked absolutely amazing and lasted for how long I stayed in the house. The biggest problem I had was I made at least 5 trips back to exchange incorrect pieces or get pieces that were missed. It's understandable because of the amount of pieces needed. I like your approach and those should last you a long time. Can't wait to see the finished product!
For your house build you should use Barker Cabinets. They are the best quality RTA cabinets I have seen. I have used them in a couple homes I’ve owned as have my brother and sister. They are legit custom cabinet quality at RTA prices.
Gang, this really is one of the best CZcams channels in existence. Paul has the best way of talking for a diy video. What other channel could make putting Ikea furniture together Interesting?
I put up a pretty big Ikea kitchen in a church I converted to a house. It went very well and being flat packed was crucial because I was hauling it from Ikea into a small town in the middle of nowhere. The adjustable legs were great because the slab was not flat, and I really like the upper cabinet hanging rail. When we had a sewage disaster, the lower cabinets were fine because they were sitting up on plastic legs with access underneath, and we were able to get a replacement cabinet to replace the bottom panel in the sink base when the disposal rusted through the bottom and leaked everywhere. When I build them from scratch I make the cabinets out of good 3/4 plywood but for some jobs it is great to have access to the Ikea system, accessories, and replacement parts. They do a good job with helping with planning and parts lists in the store as well.
Too bad about the down draft. I have had a couple and if I moved into another place that had one it would be one of the first things I ripped out and put a proper hood.
Little Studpack detail: Much of Ikea's hardware uses what LOOKS LIKE #2 Phillips ; But it's ACTUALLY Pozi-Drive. Get yourself a Pozi-Drive #2 for that perfect fit. Love the channel ! If you need hinges, let me know (I'm in Aerospace Manufacturing).
their manuals use the word phillips. maybe outside the USA they use pozi drive
@@PerfectPrinceX1 I used a Philips and it worked fine.
@@AidanSkoyles It may have worked "fine", but it'll work better with the correct bit. Philips bits tend to cam out in PoziDriv screws, PoziDriv bits won't. I have a few European cars and the best thing I did for working on them was picking up a set of PoziDriv drivers.
I didn't know Pozi-Drive screws existed although I've seen them and never noticed them. Another great reason to watch Stud Pack. Old dog---new tricks.
Philips will work but they don’t w9rk quite right. Highly recommend getting the right driver.
You've showed us Studpack OG's that wire fish trick. But it's always nice to get the refresher!
OG spotted 👀
Dear Stud Pack:
I wholeheartedly congratulate you guys in not only finishing but dealing with that whole process without destroying a few cabinets.
At least as far as we know. LOL....Cheers and congrats on the house!
I have installed some IKEA cabinets, but I still prefer custom built. In my area they are still reasonably priced.
When doing spray foam at our place, we did a secondary 2x4 inner non bearing wall, and we used wider 2' spacing for our 2x6 outer studs. The foam makes the exterior wall stronger so you don't need 16" OC, and the interior 2x4 wall makes it easy to run plumbing and electrical and to make changes in future. It also means you don't necessity have to scrape foam to put drywall on, you can spray right over the studs, and even to the floor if you want. Just allow for that with a couple inches gap to your interior wall.
Here in Sweden, we use (most often) 2x8 exterior and 2x2 running perpendicular to the 2x8. With 24-inch spacing and rockwool as insulation
This is exactly what I’d put in my garage apartment kitchen. I spent all weekend assembling the closet version of these cabinets and they’re a good value.
I also used glue in the dowels- wasn’t worth it, especially when disassembly due to error.
Gotta love seeing some renovations before the house is even done
I love how we are now at a point in this project that we are putting in cabinets! Still sureal to think that this was a muddy, crazy situation, and now, a beautiful well thought out structure is there, that will LAST! I cant wait to see the rest of the details and how the start of the main house will start. Always checkin youtube to see if studpack uploaded!
That is a great idea with the biscuit joiner. That lines and joins them up perfectly. Never saw that before. Keep up the great work gentlemen!
There is no real need because the cabs can be slid left and right on the rails to align them.
@@cpbremote Thanks. Have a great day.
They made biscuits in the kitchen.
For the adjustable electrical boxes you could use the Iberville vapour barrier soft shell pockets.
How about a scrap piece of lumber (An example would be a 2X4 or some scrap pieces glued/nailed together that matches the box's cavity shape) that's at least as long as the depth that the box would move in plus a few extra inches out past the stud and temporarily screw/nail one or two angle brakets to it and the stud where it needs to stick out (and NOT nailed inside the cavity naturally). Insulate the cavity around the "stick" and then remove it once the insulation has set.
Love that you show everything and show your mistakes and fixes. You and your team are excellent instructors!
adjusting boxes w/ spray foam: wrap the boxes in typical fire-rated soft insulation (rockwool) before you spray the foam... then you have a loose margin around the box so it can still move a little, but you don't miss out on insulating that gap.
I don't see why people are saying it looks bad or cheap. First, it's not completely finished. Once drawers, doors, and appliances are added it will look better. Second, it's for the garage. Save money there and upgrade for the main home. Lastly, our opinions are our own. The only thing that matters is that Jordan is happy with it. Looking forward to the next one!
All the IKEA hate makes me sad. I love the look and its priced well and reasonably made.
Hey if people have tens of thousands to spend on cabinets more power to em!
This video brings back good memories. We installed IKEA cabinets in our new house that we built in 2016, and every issue you’ve shown in this video are the exact same issues we had to solve. And since we did exactly what you’ve done, I guess we did it right. Great video! And we love our cabinets btw.
Excellent job - I admire how you all roll with the punches during the install (wrong size cabinets, etc.) - things that can easily send you off the rails. You guys have a solution for any obstacle!
my uncle installed hundreds of kitchens in his career. he helped his son assemble his ikea kitchen when he was older and he was blown away by the design, quality and easyness of construction. it was more than 15 years ago.
I haven't been this early since the rain created mudpack
😂 nice one
Huge tip regarding Ikea stud fasteners (and many/most of Ikea's fasteners): they are not Philips, but Pozidriv. A Pozidriv #2 will fit pretty much all of them perfectly and you will never strip another one again. As soon as I learned this (look at the screw heads, they have the little 'dashes' in the corners that indicate they are Pozidriv screws), assembling Ikea furniture got a LOT easier. Great video nonetheless!
Fantastic looking cabinets! I had no idea that they just hung like that before being secured. Can't wait to see the doors go on. Keep up the awesome work!
Hi stud pack, I’m glad I found your channel, I’m in the process of building a 1200 square foot adu. I’m finding your channel super helpful. I’m also going with an ikea kitchen, anyways keep up the great work !
On your base cabinet with the sink: once it’s put together, caulk the inside of all the seams with a white silicone. Seals it up so when there’s a water leak the panels of your cabinet won’t “balloon” & need to be replaced.
(I live in Florida… bugs everywhere… so I caulk the inside seams of every box to keep the critters out.)
Woah, I’ve never watched a video this soon after uploading 😂
My wife loves IKEA… I hate them
you might want to install vents on the side of the ikea cabinet that will house the refrigerator. depending on tight the fit is, the refrigerator requires some airflow to prevent overheating.. thats what happened to my refrigerator, as the fit was tight and not enough airflow, the frig died in about a year.
For melamine : Construction adhesive and careful sanding of the glued areas. PL Premium and Sika (Polyurethane) for the courageous ones who want it to actually stick! and a liquid nails or Loctite no more nails (the acrylic-latex water based construction adhesives won't hold as well but many dry white or transluscent)
Pretty sure I could assemble IKEA cabinets in about 3 minutes, since I didn't hear you say they had to be correct. LOL
😂 Yeah we couldn't shaved a minute or two easy! Camera had us panicking
Done this a few times with the older Ikea cabinets. Glue on the dowels, pozidrive bit not Phillips for everything, glue the pack panel and use a pneumatic stapler 1/4” crown instead of those tiny nails.
Overkill. I’ve done about 11 ikea kitchens so far, and a few other non-ikea ones. They hold up just fine when you assemble them as per the instructions.
That is also how I do it. Stapler is just much faster than the nails.
I built my wife an IKEA closet system for our bedroom. It was easy, but there were some issues with doing it solo (one panel may have fallen and tore out some material)!
Great video, as always! Well done, boys!
I'm most impressed that the cabinets came in boxes!!!! Looks great guys!¡
I love “European” French cleats 😂😂😂
Stole my comment, LOL
Well France is IN Europe so what am I missing lol
@@networkingdudeit’s like saying “stupid moron”
Will you guys do a follow up video to go over all the lessons learned with the IKEA cabinets? Looks good so far though.
Most likely when we wrap up the kitchen here pretty soon. Can already tell you it's been a nightmare to get the pieces that weren't here during the initial delivery. Massive downside.
@@StudPack Suggestion for all the cabinets that’ll have any kind of water connection inside: put a bead of silicone caulk on all the seams inside the box (can do it as it’s put together or after it’s installed). Keeps future water damage to a minimum.
Been doing this for years… also, whenever possible, like to put a very tiny pitch toward the front of the cabinet(s)… so when there’s a leak, the water (or whatever was stored) will run out the front & I find the leak ASAP.
Lastly, been living in Florida for 35+ years… bugs everywhere, all year… I actually caulk every interior seam of every cabinet box… kitchen, bathroom, utility room, etc… so no critters can get inside my stuff (well, unless they use the doors). 😂🤣
Loving your GarageMahal videos! Keep up the great work! 🎉🎉
PS - may’ve made a similar comment waaaay back in your “total kitchen remodel” video series… been subscribed for a long time & still the first channel I check every time I open CZcams. 👍🏼
Hard working family. Love to watch the progress yall r making. GOD bless u all
I put those in my personal kitchen and have been impressed so far. Two years later. I also used my micro pin nailer to secure back panel after squaring up. Good job guys
Before going into business for myself I worked at a cabinet shop in Ohio. Those 1/4 turn cam locks are junk. They break and fall apart all the time. But if you want a cheap decent looking kitchen they work
I agree
careful with clear glass doors. No one's cabinets ever look like what you see in magazines. Better off with obscure class, like frosted, fluted, etc. I'd also do your counter up more than 36". 39" is a good #, I'm tall, I'd do 40". Lastly, you may be bothered by having the oven and micro, next to a wall. Usually there's space around these appliances for "working room".
Trust me on this.
This was a well-timed video. I have been considering IKEA cabinets for a small kitchen. Always good to see more experiences with assembly and installation. Looks like things turned out pretty well here after the mid-stream corrections.
dang what a great dad!! happy fathers day paul!!! your awesome!!
I looked into the ikea system, but ended up going a local place for a flatpack setup, glad I did, not only was it about half the price, looking at this, it was a lot better quality. none of those stupid stud/twist things, just glue and screw. also every cabinet had a solid back. all the hardware provided was also blum, some of the best hinges and drawers I have ever used and for a very cheap price.
What's the local place...?
@@ZachAshcraft just a local cabinet maker. they do installs as well. doubt it will be relevant to you as I am in Australia...
@@myopinion69420 no wonder, they don't have to ship around the world!
@@r7boatguy i'm pretty sure the melamine is shipped, as I don't think that is made here, at least not in my state, the hardware is from blum which is Austrian so probably came from Austria, the USA, Brazil or Poland depending on which factory it came from.
Wow, nice. Do you recall the manufacturer's name?
Great Video but Ill stick to my RTA cabinets theyre better built and sturdier than Ikea
Regarding your adjustable electrical boxes , I would build a "C" box enclosing that electrical box with a 1x4 or 1x6 whichever size studs you used for that wall and then insulate around it. It would be alot more work due to the wiring.
Man this video was great! Loved to see all the pivoting you had to do. Been thinking about an ikea kitchen for a bit so was cool to watch you all. Stoked for the next video this place is coming together great!!
Now you can say you have premium Scandinavian cabinetry lol.
New interior design term, Euro-Texas Chic by Studpack.
Premium looks like a stretch IMO; other RTA cabinets seem much sturdier, with plywood boxes and back panels. That IKEA back panel looks so flimsy.
@@stevebabiak6997 you’re aware that was a joke, right?
@@aweisen1 - well, some people think that sh1t isn’t sh1t.
I’m pretty sure the word “IKEA” is Swedish for “particle board”…
I live on the gulf in Florida. Former resident of Houston. I would be very wary of installing MDF cabs because of the humidity. Unless I was doing a flip. My cabs are void free plywood. Not warped after 30 years
Great step-by-step video showing all the installation details including the issues you had to resolve. I really like the quality of the Ikea cabinets. I haven't used them in my kitchen (yet) but I replaced a couple 30 year old "contractor grade" bath vanities with Ikea bath vanity cabinets and sinks. The Ikea vanities have two legs in front, two drawers with a right angle drain that clears them and the backs mount to the wall. Only slight complication was having to add blocking for the wall mounting clips to have something solid to fasten them to. A great upgrade for a reasonable price and they look so much more modern and high end compared to what they replaced.
Their sinks use some non standard plumbing connections
Awesome info. I'm putting in 2 ikea cabinets to finish up our bathroom remodel, and your experience will come in quite handy. I was wondering about the filler panel, and now I know. Thanks!
Mdf cabinetry hurts my soul.
Why? It’s the best material for it. Most custom cabinets here in Australia feature mdf or particle board substrates and then veneered with timber or using thermolaminates.
Plywood is the old technology now.
@@w2ttsy670 Both are garbage :)
@@w2ttsy670plywood is better but a lot more expensive.
The only reason they use MDF is price.
Live in an environment with 99% humidity 2/3 of the year like they do, and I do. MDF isn't going to last
@@Mr.Saltwater Australian cities suffer high humidity too. Right now it’s 90% in Sydney and it’s the start of winter here.
But that doesn’t limit material choice. MR MDF and HDF products have better moisture resistance capabilities, you can use thermolaminates to completely encase the substrate, 2k or CV finishes also work well. And failing that, PVC based substrates like corelite will work too.
I mean plywood is not any better at resisting environmental factors, and is more likely to warp or expand/contract under environmental load than MDF is. Again, how it’s finished will be a leading indicator on how durable the material is.
I installed an Ikea kitchen about 10 years ago and it was totally worth it for a sub-$200k house. I think I paid around $12k total and installed it myself. I did have a snag or two when I forgot to buy some trim or whatever. The other advice that EVERYONE needs to know with Ikea is to immediately go through each and every box ON DELIVERY and make sure all the parts and hardware are there and undamaged. They will not help you if you come back weeks later and tell them you're missing something.
$12k for this junk!?
@@3nertia the average US kitchen is replaced every 10 years, no matter who makes it. Why would you want to waste large amounts of better quality materials when it's all going to end up in a landfill anyway?
Yes, there are some exceptions, but they are just that ... exceptions.
Ikea's approach is to use cheaper, lower resource materials for the invisible parts of their cabinets, and then clad the visible/touchable parts in smaller amounts of quality materials. The one I built in 2003 lasted 15 years and was still in excellent condition after that time.
Maybe it's not to your tastes, but it's also not junk.
10 years???!!! The average American does not replace their kitchen every ten years.
@@marksmith4645 I'm quoting you statistics, not guesswork. Alas, right now I can't find a citation for number. Most of what is online these days comes from kitchen remodellers and cabinet makers, and they say you "should" change it up every 10-15 years, which is clearly in their interest, not ours. However, I did get this number from a government statistics site some years back, and I believe it is still approximately correct.
I’ve put a few different prefab kitchens together before including from IKEA and Bunnings. Generally pretty straight forward to put together but like you guys, you will run into some hurdles.
Honestly I like them even if you only go for the shells and get the doors/covers later you can save a lot of money.
Back in 2015 I built my entire kitchen with IKEA cabinets and countertops, and sink. I had no experience and it didn’t stop me. I loved the anti slam doors and everything fit like glove and was easy to install.
My 12' of Ikea kitchen arrived in 69 boxes...wish I was kidding.
OMG That is so Funny
69. Nice.
compared to every other thing in this house those cabinets are way under quality I wonder what the reason was for choosing it?
You obviously have not priced cabinets lately!!!! Also going with Ikea you can get kits that you can adjust to fit what sapce you have. Otherwise you are talking about 20-30k for custom cabinets to do the entire kitchen. Also why would they waste $20-30k for cabinets , for that temporary space , because they are likely going to put the custom cabinets in the main house and save that money!
I use roo glue (melamine glue ) as I assemble, the particle board will break before the glue joint fails. Also a bead of silicone on the interior seams will prevent water damage.
I did mine about 4 years ago and it still looks great! A cabinet took about 10 minutes to single-handedly assemble. One thing I wish I had known was all IKEA screws are Pozidriv and not Phillips Heads.
I stopped buying IKEA ready to assemble furniture and cabinets when I watched a documentary on TV showing how all the particleboard forests in Sweden have been decimated. There’s almost no old growth particleboard anymore in Sweden!
🤪
Another example of over-harvest: the Nauga. The insatiable demand for their hides led to their near extinction. 🥸
The Corinthians no longer produce leather, either.
The sektion panels supplied in Canada and likely the US are US or Mexican made.
Not only that but after visiting an IKEA store I lost all faith and Swedish engineering. How could they not have figured out to not have all four wheels swivel on the shopping carts? I think the superiority of fixed rear wheels/swiveling front wheels design was proven before the Roman Empire. Even Fred Flintstones‘s car didn’t have swiveling rear wheels.
Ikea cabinets are awful. I installed one kitchen with them before and Never again!
You guys work well together and lots of good memories are being built as well. On a project that size, those little mods are inevitable. Take it all in stride and move fwd. 👏
Looking awesome with the black and LED. Always tweaking needed to get final assembly. Inspiring!
Oh my gosh the dreaded IKEA cabinets lol.
Nice cardboard cabinets 😂
15:15 Taking a wild shot at it. Wrap the box in cling wrap after the wire is run and before the spray foam is applied. Maybe put a single layer of bubble wrap behind the box inside the cling wrap to give you some adjustment slack.
You begin by mentioning "dreary rainy afternoon". I, from Pittsburgh, have had a special keen ear when I heard the bad and rainy weather in Houston area this late spring. My first curiosity was, having finished the outside, it is good that you took the special precautions to seal the house. I see now the need for all the precautions that you took in sealing your construction from the weather. I am also interested in your success in sealing from the bugs. ---Just a human interest of mine...Derek West, Mustard Seed Advent.
IKEA is most commonly spelled: S-U-C-K-S
What were you guys thinking seriously?.
You get better quality at Builders-Surplus or even Seconds & Surplus.
Hell even RTA Mail-order is better than IKEA.
Did I mention how to spell IKEA properly?.
🤦♂️
Guarantee you're the guy that's used and loved these without knowing they were from IKEA.
Why I will not shop Ikea -- they do not pay income taxes anywhere in the world... further, they burden cities when they build there by requiring expensive infrastructure while not contributing to income tax and taking a huge discount on property taxes. I vote with my pocketbook. Not a dime of mine into their pocket!
Yes, IKEA does pay taxes. According to IKEA's tax principles, they are committed to complying with all tax legislation and paying taxes in accordance with the rules and regulations in the jurisdictions where they operate. They have a tax policy in place based on their tax principles that has been approved by the Finance Committee of their Management Board.
IKEA pays taxes on its sales and profits in the countries where it operates. For example, in the United States, IKEA pays sales tax on its sales and corporate income tax on its profits. In other countries, the specific taxes IKEA pays may vary depending on the local tax laws.
It's worth noting that IKEA's tax practices have been scrutinized in the past. In 2017, it was reported that IKEA had not paid any corporate income tax in Australia despite making significant sales in the country. However, IKEA stated that it complies with all tax laws and regulations in the countries where it operates.
@@CUBuffnSD Not true! I worked with a city that Ikea came to... it cost taxpayers a lot and Ikea didn't pay a dime... continues to not pay income taxes.
Thanks for the content, guys!
Been there, done that.
Great way to show all the gruesome details!
Thank you!
Guys great video, didn’t know anything about IKEA cabinets before your video. Like the cleat on the wall for hanging & securing the cabinets. Going to look great Jordan .