Painting Napoleonic British Infantry With (Mostly!) Contrast [How I Paint Things]
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- čas přidán 15. 08. 2024
- It's often said that painting historical miniatures is fraught with difficulties. After all, if you want to get precisely the correct shade of blue or green on a uniform, it requires a paint purchased specifically for the purpose, right? Even when it's a tiny detail tucked under a miniature's arm? The truth is, as much as painting anything fictional, there's a degree of 'good enough' which is personal to everyone approaching the subject, and if you're looking for something relatively quick and simple to knock out large amounts of infantry for a historical project, Contrast really can be of some use.
With 'The Silver Bayonet' nearing release, I need a handful of extra British infantry really quickly! Check out more here: ospreypublishi...
00:00 - Intro
01:08 - Painting Time
13:44 - The Finished Product
Thanks to Producer level Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Fred, and Jimmy - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
/ sonicsledgehammer
/ sonicsledge
/ sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docw...
exit23.games
Grab your own Sonic Sledgehammer mug (or more!) from Redbubble! www.redbubble.... Note that shipping is charged according to where the product is made, so those charges will be higher or lower depending on where you are in the world - this, unfortunately, is something I can't control!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
The Army Painter Matt White
CITADEL:
Aly's Brown Liquid: • Speed Painting Magic -...
Praxeti White (Dry)
Iyanden Yellow (Contrast)
Guilliman Flesh (Contrast)
Blood Angels Red (Contrast)
Talassar Blue (Contrast)
Contrast Medium
Wyldwood (Contrast)
Skeleton Horde (Contrast)
Cygor Brown (Contrast)
Basilicanum Grey (Contrast)
Black Templar (Contrast)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Liberator Gold (Layer)
Agrax Earthshade (Shade)
Wild Rider Red (Layer)
Stormvermin Fur (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Off-White
SPRAY VARNISHES:
Vallejo Matt Varnish - Hry
![Painting Napoleonic Austrian Infantry in (Mostly) Contrast! [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VeMMwDndm3k/mqdefault.jpg)
![Painting Napoleonic Austrian Infantry in (Mostly) Contrast! [How I Paint Things]](/img/tr.png)
![Quick & Easy: Painting Napoleonic French - Tabletop Ready & Beyond [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pXRvs36O0J8/mqdefault.jpg)
don't know about anyone else but I find this dudes voice and videos really relaxing, great videos dude thanks
More. MORE!!! All of them. Light Dragoons, Heavy Dragoons, Rifles, Artillery. Everything! 👍🏻
That is rather an outlay in cost for all those miniatures! Something I'd like to get to over time, but not likely to happen any time soon, I'm afraid.
I think the starting process would be great for full white uniforms such as Austrian, Italian, and Saxon.
For real. Austrians and Spanish would be my first thought, but that slightly creamy off-white would work for the majority of most of the uniforms of the period, I think!
Really lovely work,it's the way I paint my Napoleonic troops adding a pre wash helps,thank you for the awesome content
WOW. That is amazing. Thank you for the tuturial. That is pure gold for a beginner like me!
Thank you , Troy .
Love this! Maybe the 95th Rifles next? Was looking to get into Sharpe Practice and wanted to see your take on them.
Great video as usual. Thank you very much. The bag on his left hip under the canteen is called a haversack. 😃
Thank you! I´m quite new to this hobby and have not so much experience with contrast paints.
I strongly dislike the slowing down with contrast paints and it doesn't mesh well with my quick and dirty paint style (with tons of fixing happy accidents later on). But I really like them as washes for brighter colors and details. :-) Thank you very much for the video. It was a pleasure to watch. :-)
Another excellent video gives the confidence to crack on with my own miniatures. TY 😊
Thank you, seeing this sort of thing inspires me to get the paint out again after months away from it.
For the initial wash you gave the figure, I get a similar result using Fyreslayer Flesh contrast straight from the pot, no mixing required and that certainly helps with picking out the detail that needs painted.
And 200 more to go
I'd love to see another video with some of the new contrast or speed paints being used. I'm liking where both are going
Great video! For cornflower blue, I’m mixing Ultramarines Blue with Apothecary White 1:1. Also not perfect but there you go :)
Ooh, now that's an interesting choice. That might work for my Bavarians.
Thankyou great video fantastic work
I've been painting my Warlord Games Epic ACW figs with contrast paint over a zenithal highlight
Nice result. Pre-shading for Contrast Paints really does seem to work nicely. My Peninsular Brits are done in a similar way, though I use 50/50 Skeleton Horde/Medium for the overalls. Two coats of Gryph Charger Grey was my attempt for the water bottle... just not quite right!
With Contrast it's really a case that there aren't that many in the range, yet. I'm curious to know whether or not they're planning to expand the range, but Contrast also doesn't seem to have lead to the massive sea change in painting they were marketed toward, so... I dunno. Gotta futz with them in the meantime!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I know what you mean. I feel that Contrast paints aren't actually all that great for beginners: you need the fine motor control to avoid splashing it on the wrong surface when working. With acrylics you can just paint over to tidy mistakes, and a wash will hide so many little errors. Tidying contrast colours ready for the next layer takes longer in comparison I find. They are a great tool for sure, but one of many!
This was helpful. I am thinking of trying the Contrast Paints for some projects I have. Thanks for sharing this.
They've got a lot of uses. If you come at them from the perspective of they're essentially a highly pigmented wash, I think it makes it easier to find a place where they'll work on a project rather than sticking to Citadel paint guides. In particular I can't recommend Guilliman Flesh enough if anyone has trouble painting faces. Bloop, and done!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I have found that Guilliman Flesh doesn't look as good on older, metal miniatures for some reason. It always requires some extra work to have the flesh look right. On modern, plastic miniatures, it works just as shown!
Nice one mate.
Thank you! Cheers!
Lovely job! I've been using a lot of contrast over airbrushed preshade/hightlight, I'll have to give this method a go as well.
It's a similar approach, I imagine! Though the airbrushed highlights would likely look much smoother overall, if you've got the airbrush out.
I don't think it's a water bottle. British infantrymen were issued with cd players and laptop cases at that time period. Long before it was fashionable I might add.
There's me forgetting how crazy English pronunciation of the period works! I keep seeing it written as 'water bottle,' but in English it's pronounced 'man bag.'
They were complaining about the reproductive quality even then between vinyl and cd. Then again, so were the Ladies of Spain.
Another great vid T BUT…….HOW do you keep your brushes so ‘pointy’? Mine are mostly starting to curl at the tips even though I’ve kept them clean and used the recommended soaps!
Rinse regularly while you're using them - you don't need to rinse constantly, but don't let paint dry in your bristles, and don't let paint collect and dry up in the metal ferrule otherwise it'll push the bristles apart and they'll never keep a point. Water and regular rinsing will keep your brushes in fine condition for years.
You got any of that hand/ body wash soap in the shower ? ( its called radox here ) Couple of goops of that in a jar of water . I constantly wash the brushes every "'seems like it "10 minutes . Get that hint ! Then dry on a paper towel . If any colour bleeds wash it again. Sort of dry the bristles on a 10 degree and rotate at same time.Keep going until only water comes off . Then start painting again but only use tip of bristles . When finished and washing lay it down to dry then after stand up in another jar . When using paint ,mix in acrylic medium 1 to 1 . Get a large jar from Hardware or an Art n Paint type shop . Wargame sites cost too much
Great work. Good use of the contrast paints, I am not a fan of them personally.
They take a bit of getting used to, but they're very definitely Marmite material! Love 'em or hate 'em!
Practice makes progress, yo (y)
Nice use of contrasts, and doesn't even look cartoony! How about a French Napoleonic figure, asking for a friend........
I’m new to minis, what paints, washes, etc do you recommend for beginners who like realism
Love the videos, always really helpful and have improved my technique no end. Are you planning anything on on the British afghan wars of the 19c. I recently bought some afghan tribesmen and British infantry any any advice on painting and colour schemes would be great.
Could you do a video of the 42nd highlanders
Would you consider doing a vid covering British line of the Zulu war era?
I think I might have answered this one elsewhere? The short answer is 'eventually' since they're miniatures I'd need to purchase, and I haven't much use for a whole box of plastics or metal blisters for colonial era British troops yet. In time, sure, but it's very much on the horizon.
Good evening,
This tutorial is perfect!
I have tried your method and it is great.
But I have a question, when I apply the varnish the parts/colours with the Contrast become shiny after drying! The same with the second coat.
I changed brands of matte varnish (AK, Prince Auguste, Green Stuff) but the result remains the same!
Is it a problem with the polish? Which varnish do you use?
Is it a problem with the undercoat?
Thanks for your help 🙏
Hey, didn't you have a guide for WWII French? I can't seem to find it anymore.
What is the primary source for your historical figures?
Cool which cintrast green do you reccomend for napoleonic russians?
Amazing result but painfully slow way of doing. If you are keen on displaying your figures on photos only, you can choose to paint your figures using a paint shop program on your PC. I tried this at first with horrible result. Then i adopted the use of gradient color mix that help darken the image, highlighting with shade etc. That makes all the difference. Now a figure looks even better than a painted one by hand with a brush. Even better, you can do one figure at a time in different poses and after finishing the painting, duplicate that figure and thus create an entire army.
The whole purpose here is to paint something physical which is used on the tabletop. Taking a photo of it and adjusting that with editing software isn't really going to work out for a wargaming army.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thanks for your immediate reply. As i wrote, painting using software would only be for the purpose of showing the end result on a photo for others to look at. Wargaming is not my bag. The rules manual is just too vast for me, bogging down any fun one would have, so i settle for doing scenery of various sorts and photographing it. Each to his own.
What company are these models from?
If I'm remembering correctly, these are the Victrix plastics.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks! 🙏🏼