Another great video. In each video you publish I learn more about the jk and I want to do certain maintenance tasks on my own. Greetings from Colombia and again, thank you very much for your time.
Fantastic video, thank you. I do have a question tho. Do you happen to know the specs for the cam phaser actuator T-25 torx bolts? I can't seem to find that detail anywhere.
Hey John. You dropped this at the perfect time. I have the Gaskets sitting in my garage. Mahle, same as you said. One thing I want to know is about the JV7 sealant that comes with the kit. Do I smear that on the gasket before I install? Or do I install the gasket dry like you did?
If you look at some other videos, for example, TRQ and A1 auto parts, they install the gasket dry as well. The same as I do. My kit did not come with a sealant. I’m gonna go back and check to see if it’s included from the place that I buy it. But I did use RTV sealant where the timing cover is located on both sides. It also lines up with that square block in the gasket. It should also be old RTV when you remove it in the same spot as shown on my video. I would encourage you to look at a few videos for this type of job just so you can get multiple perspectives. Thank you for watching. I have another video on the passenger side, and for me, I took the option of removing the entire battery tray to be able to get access to it.
@@JohnsJeepGarage Okay I’ll definitely do that. I ordered from rockauto and it came with a little pouch-tube of JV7 high temp silicone. Maybe I’ll give them a call and find out.
My guess is it may be for the 2 spots I mentioned at the seam (valve body to timing cover) where you see the old RTV. Please share once you find out. Always love to learn from others as well. You can find us on X (Twitter) as well as Instagram too. Thank you for watching.
@@JohnsJeepGarage I spoke with Mahle yesterday and they confirmed what you said. It is for the joints the gasket does not cover. Just their included RTV.
Awesome! Good luck with your project. Be safe and thank you for watching our channel. The Driver side is the "easier" side by the way. My video on the Passenger side is posted but it was more of a challenge. Thank you again.
I would look up the kit you purchased online and see if you can find the list of contents. I show everything that comes in this kit I purchased. Can you send a picture to me in Instagram or X (Twitter)? Thank you for watching.
Hey bud. Question... just did my rockers for the tick in my 2012 jk 3.6. 2 weeks later i get the infamous P0390 code. Camshaft sensor error bank 2.. i replaced both sides with OEM , changed the oil and filter and also spliced in new pigtails on the Cam sensors. I got about 200 miles and the error keeps coming back. I can clear the code and I'm good for a while but it keeps coming back. Any thoughts.? I'm at a total loss. Thanks 👍 oh also did the oem crank sensor too.
First, thank you for watching our channel. I hope the video helped. For your question, realize troubleshooting remotely, is me trying to put my basic troubleshooting checks in written form but sometimes when you’re there looking at everything, you can see other potential issues. When I see this fault, I first immediately think of either wiring and connection or replacing the sensor. So you replaced the sensor, just make sure the sensors are seated correctly, then I think of wiring and connection. Since you said you spliced the pigtail, it just makes me wonder if anything could’ve happened there. This error happened after you did the initial work so it wasn’t there before. I think something may have happened with the wiring or the connection. By replacing the sensors you’ve eliminated that being an issue so now it leads me back to Validating there are no issues with the wiring harness or connection. I hope I read everything correctly. Are you getting any other codes?
The code started out of no where. It wasn't the work I did. So when I got the code I changed the cam sensors. Then I tested the voltage.. all was fine.. error came back so I decided to rewire the pigtails. 100 miles later code is back. I did a relearn and was able to get 200 miles before code came back. All parts are OEM . Also changed crank sensor. Oil and filter.. I can delete the code but it just a matter of time when it'll come back. And I don't have to be doing anything... it can be just idle and it will pop up... right now I deleted it.. no issues for 20 miles YET! Thanks
My friend owns a Jeep Shop and will also follow up with him. I was going to mention checking the part (resistance check) but realize you said all is OEM. Keep me posted as well, we learn all the time.
Wow. I never have seen that as a symptom and normally shows with my ABS Diagnostic tool for the chassis versus on any OBD2 error code. I am glad you found the fix to the problem. Thank you for sharing.
Another great video. In each video you publish I learn more about the jk and I want to do certain maintenance tasks on my own. Greetings from Colombia and again, thank you very much for your time.
Thank you for the kind words about our videos. I am glad they help. Thank you again for watching our channel.
Great video well done
Thank you for the feedback. We appreciate you watching our channel. We also posted one on the Passenger side.
Fantastic video, thank you. I do have a question tho. Do you happen to know the specs for the cam phaser actuator T-25 torx bolts? I can't seem to find that detail anywhere.
Thank you for watching! It is about 35 INCH pounds. (Approx 3 foot pounds)
Hey John. You dropped this at the perfect time. I have the Gaskets sitting in my garage. Mahle, same as you said. One thing I want to know is about the JV7 sealant that comes with the kit. Do I smear that on the gasket before I install? Or do I install the gasket dry like you did?
If you look at some other videos, for example, TRQ and A1 auto parts, they install the gasket dry as well. The same as I do. My kit did not come with a sealant. I’m gonna go back and check to see if it’s included from the place that I buy it. But I did use RTV sealant where the timing cover is located on both sides. It also lines up with that square block in the gasket. It should also be old RTV when you remove it in the same spot as shown on my video. I would encourage you to look at a few videos for this type of job just so you can get multiple perspectives. Thank you for watching.
I have another video on the passenger side, and for me, I took the option of removing the entire battery tray to be able to get access to it.
@@JohnsJeepGarage Okay I’ll definitely do that. I ordered from rockauto and it came with a little pouch-tube of JV7 high temp silicone. Maybe I’ll give them a call and find out.
My guess is it may be for the 2 spots I mentioned at the seam (valve body to timing cover) where you see the old RTV. Please share once you find out. Always love to learn from others as well. You can find us on X (Twitter) as well as Instagram too. Thank you for watching.
@@JohnsJeepGarage I spoke with Mahle yesterday and they confirmed what you said. It is for the joints the gasket does not cover. Just their included RTV.
Awesome! Good luck with your project. Be safe and thank you for watching our channel. The Driver side is the "easier" side by the way. My video on the Passenger side is posted but it was more of a challenge. Thank you again.
I have a black seal in my kit which is not shown here. It appears to be an adapter seal. Where does that go ? Thanks !
I would look up the kit you purchased online and see if you can find the list of contents. I show everything that comes in this kit I purchased. Can you send a picture to me in Instagram or X (Twitter)? Thank you for watching.
@@JohnsJeepGarage Thanks for the reply. Its a round rubber black seal. I will send u the photo on Insta. THANK YOU
Hey bud. Question... just did my rockers for the tick in my 2012 jk 3.6. 2 weeks later i get the infamous P0390 code. Camshaft sensor error bank 2.. i replaced both sides with OEM , changed the oil and filter and also spliced in new pigtails on the Cam sensors. I got about 200 miles and the error keeps coming back. I can clear the code and I'm good for a while but it keeps coming back. Any thoughts.? I'm at a total loss. Thanks 👍 oh also did the oem crank sensor too.
First, thank you for watching our channel. I hope the video helped. For your question, realize troubleshooting remotely, is me trying to put my basic troubleshooting checks in written form but sometimes when you’re there looking at everything, you can see other potential issues. When I see this fault, I first immediately think of either wiring and connection or replacing the sensor. So you replaced the sensor, just make sure the sensors are seated correctly, then I think of wiring and connection. Since you said you spliced the pigtail, it just makes me wonder if anything could’ve happened there. This error happened after you did the initial work so it wasn’t there before. I think something may have happened with the wiring or the connection. By replacing the sensors you’ve eliminated that being an issue so now it leads me back to Validating there are no issues with the wiring harness or connection. I hope I read everything correctly. Are you getting any other codes?
The code started out of no where. It wasn't the work I did. So when I got the code I changed the cam sensors. Then I tested the voltage.. all was fine.. error came back so I decided to rewire the pigtails. 100 miles later code is back. I did a relearn and was able to get 200 miles before code came back. All parts are OEM . Also changed crank sensor. Oil and filter.. I can delete the code but it just a matter of time when it'll come back. And I don't have to be doing anything... it can be just idle and it will pop up... right now I deleted it.. no issues for 20 miles YET! Thanks
My friend owns a Jeep Shop and will also follow up with him. I was going to mention checking the part (resistance check) but realize you said all is OEM. Keep me posted as well, we learn all the time.
@JohnsJeepGarage I actually fixed the issue... believe it or not or was the rear wheel speed sensor! .. wtf!?
Wow. I never have seen that as a symptom and normally shows with my ABS Diagnostic tool for the chassis versus on any OBD2 error code. I am glad you found the fix to the problem. Thank you for sharing.