Thank you for posting the video, it has helped me ALOT!!!! I have everything lined up, I think...LOL I was wondering if you put everything back together to start and run the car or just the coolant hose as shown in the video? I wouldn't think there would be anything to turn the crank shaft without the pulley and drive belt...just wondering because each time I do this, the car get better but when I open the case again, timing is off slightly.
Just did a 2007 Magnum with a 3.5L, it broke a timing belt on the freeway going 70. I installed a timing belt and tried to start, but would not run on one cylinder, 20 of the 24 valved had a party with the pistons, but # 6 didn't get the invite. Pulled the heads, replaced all 24 valves, lapped them all in and now runs great after 400.00 in parts, and good amount of work.Very important to replace the timing belt at 100,000 miles on this 3.5L motor.
I would suggest to beginners or people that are trying to do this them selfeves to turn it with a ratchet first before they fire it up to make sure that it doesn't get stuck that meaning pistons may bend the valves other than that great video it help me a lot
I always start the car before I put anything back together if it will run for a couple seconds at least sometimes you have to much stuff off for the car to run like sensors and things: is not a problem for 2 to 3 seconds if it starts and sounds good it's okay
When you turned the TDC to center it, i noticed the belt moved, doesn't that send the top cams to move out of line also? This is the problem i've been having
Very informative video. My mechanic did a timing belt and water pump change on my 2007 Dodge Charger SXT in 2012. I'm certain that he didn't do it right as my car jumped time and the water pump ia leaking now. What needs to be done to get car timing back? I saw you pulled a pin. I saw that it creates tension. What's the name and the part number for that? Is it necessary to turn the belt a few turns after you set the three timing marks? It would have been nice to hear you fire the car up and see you put the belt on. I don't intend to do the repair but I would like to know as much as possible. Thanks for the video.
Well I'm getting ready to take one a part same car same engine same year and same color lol , I hope it didn't bend any valves thanks for the video, I may post one as well
Mike R once the tensioner puts tension on the Belt you can rotate motor about a quarter turn counter-clockwise then turn it back clockwise to the marks and they will all line up the motor rotates clockwise if they're off just a hair it's fine
If the car shakes a bit while idle you think it can be because it’s off timing by a tooth? , car has been rebuild completely new plugs , new spark plugs , no vacuum
I can be oxygen sensors it could be bad injectors spark plugs it could be anything depends on how bad it shaking and you would literally have to look at the timing to see if it was off there's no guessing it's at I seen them run a tooth or two off no problem just have power issues with performance
Mr. Fix-It Mobile thanks for the reply I would doubt it too , car throws no codes and thought it was motor mounts but there solid as well. Runs great just when parked or in Drive at a light it shakes like if it was misfiring.
I have a Question I'm stuck on mine I also have a 3.5 I am changing my Belt Water Pump and Tensioner Harmonic balancer too Now I only decided to do the job because its long over due . I get it all apart to find my old belt stretched and really worn bad so I turn the crank 2 revolutions to line the marks TDC but both cams are off about 1/2 maybe 1 tooth . grr Can I manually turn them back individually ? Please help asap. Thanks
This doesn't look like good advice. When you turn the crankshaft to TDC it is visibly pulling the cams off center... looked like close to a tooth. Just set them all to center before you tension, tried and true. This could easily damage your car if you're not careful.
Kelly T yes it does a little bit but then after the belts on and the tensions on everything lines up find it makes it easier to install the belt try it the car's been running fine since doing this video
Hallphamazing305 there were no symptoms it just came apart while he was driving it and at the end of the video I said it didn't hurt the motor but actually it had I just didn't feel like changing the video it bent six of the valves I had to take it back apart replace 06 exhaust Valves and put it back together
So I change my timing belt last week and put it in time, tried to start the car and it runs but only if my foot holds the gas pedal. It won't stay idle or go above 3k rpms for some reason?
Check your timing to make sure it didn't jump time if you didn't roll it over by hand a couple times before you started it is possible that jumped when you did start it
You do not address how to align the pulleys and the crank shaft timing marks so that when the tensioner is installed the timing marks come into alignment. I have tried everything (9except the technique that works) to make this happen over 2 weeks. Incomplete how to videos are worse than no how to videos at all. Please show how you accomplished this because it isn't just "align the marks and install the tensioner" The tensioner pulls on the slack in the belt and thus the cams and then the cams are out of time. Trust me. I know. I know it is a question of installing the belt with tension on it as you wrap it around the pulleys well; I know of no other way than to pull on the belt just hard enough so that the pulley that already has the belt on it doesn't move. I end up 1/2 to 1 whole tooth off regardless of how I clock either pulley.
I'm sorry I thought the video was rather descriptive. You can try putting tension on the pulley with a screwdriver before you release the tensioner that might alleviate your problem. The belt will already be tight therefore nothing will move when it's activated. I think I did show that the bottom crank had to be slightly off time to get the belt on then afterwards moved into place the right-hand side of the belt will have it slight bit of slack in it at first. But the paper is jammed in there to keep the belt in place and the pulley from moving it's not lightly In there it's TIGHT! I do these so often I get in a grove and leave out tips plus I'm in a hurry usually. Lol
My friend this is the best and fastest explained video ever dude ur a bad ass man
Thank you for posting the video, it has helped me ALOT!!!! I have everything lined up, I think...LOL I was wondering if you put everything back together to start and run the car or just the coolant hose as shown in the video? I wouldn't think there would be anything to turn the crank shaft without the pulley and drive belt...just wondering because each time I do this, the car get better but when I open the case again, timing is off slightly.
Just did a 2007 Magnum with a 3.5L, it broke a timing belt on the freeway going 70. I installed a timing belt and tried to start, but would not run on one cylinder, 20 of the 24 valved had a party with the pistons, but # 6 didn't get the invite. Pulled the heads, replaced all 24 valves, lapped them all in and now runs great after 400.00 in parts, and good amount of work.Very important to replace the timing belt at 100,000 miles on this 3.5L motor.
What state do you live in are you still doing timing belt replacements
Just what I needed to see
Thank u a lot for this video, I'm taking my car to the dealership but the problem is there trying to charge me 1, 500
I would suggest to beginners or people that are trying to do this them selfeves to turn it with a ratchet first before they fire it up to make sure that it doesn't get stuck that meaning pistons may bend the valves other than that great video it help me a lot
You could do that or you could just start it since it's in time if u followed the directions
thank you very much for making the video, it helped allot. ill keep an eye for future reference on your solutions
I always start the car before I put anything back together if it will run for a couple seconds at least sometimes you have to much stuff off for the car to run like sensors and things: is not a problem for 2 to 3 seconds if it starts and sounds good it's okay
When you turned the TDC to center it, i noticed the belt moved, doesn't that send the top cams to move out of line also? This is the problem i've been having
Best video ever dude u Rock
how many miles did he have on it when this happened? Also,how did you end up getting the pulley off?A chrysler specific puller correct?
Very informative video. My mechanic did a timing belt and water pump change on my 2007 Dodge Charger SXT in 2012. I'm certain that he didn't do it right as my car jumped time and the water pump ia leaking now. What needs to be done to get car timing back? I saw you pulled a pin. I saw that it creates tension. What's the name and the part number for that? Is it necessary to turn the belt a few turns after you set the three timing marks? It would have been nice to hear you fire the car up and see you put the belt on. I don't intend to do the repair but I would like to know as much as possible. Thanks for the video.
There's o'rings behind the water pump 2 small and 1 big one. You need to take cover off and the cam gears off and bolts to get to it.
The piece I pulled the pin on is the timing belt tensioner or actuator
Hey you know where any videos are that may be able to help me with that
When your timing your 07 dodge Magnum is the #1 piston up or down
Well I'm getting ready to take one a part same car same engine same year and same color lol , I hope it didn't bend any valves thanks for the video, I may post one as well
Well, didn it bend anything
Me too
Nothing did bend because the 3.5L Chrysler is a non-interference engine, good video non the less
oops it is an interference engine...1993-1997 was non-interference...my bad
You should have replaced the water pump since it runs on the timing belt.
I'm pretty sure I did can't remember too long ago
I'm not sure how many miles it had on it, and yes I did use a Chrysler specific wheel puller/installer
So after you pulled the pin - you moved the crank mark CW to TDC. Did the Cam marks also change?
Mike R once the tensioner puts tension on the Belt you can rotate motor about a quarter turn counter-clockwise then turn it back clockwise to the marks and they will all line up the motor rotates clockwise if they're off just a hair it's fine
Ok so after u have the belt on and u move the bottom to tdc doesnt it move the other two marks off?
Is the timing chain and belt the same thing.
Timing belt is rubber-like material. Timing chain is metal. They are not the same thing, but they do the same thing.
this must be a sxt engine. the SE version of chargers dont use a belt i think. SE engines are 2.7 and use timing chains.
I dont know about chargers, but i know 2010 3.5 se challengers is the exact same thing we see there
If the car shakes a bit while idle you think it can be because it’s off timing by a tooth? , car has been rebuild completely new plugs , new spark plugs , no vacuum
I can be oxygen sensors it could be bad injectors spark plugs it could be anything depends on how bad it shaking and you would literally have to look at the timing to see if it was off there's no guessing it's at I seen them run a tooth or two off no problem just have power issues with performance
Mr. Fix-It Mobile thanks for the reply I would doubt it too , car throws no codes and thought it was motor mounts but there solid as well. Runs great just when parked or in Drive at a light it shakes like if it was misfiring.
I have a Question I'm stuck on mine I also have a 3.5 I am changing my Belt Water Pump and Tensioner Harmonic balancer too Now I only decided to do the job because its long over due . I get it all apart to find my old belt stretched and really worn bad so I turn the crank 2 revolutions to line the marks TDC but both cams are off about 1/2 maybe 1 tooth . grr Can I manually turn them back individually ? Please help asap. Thanks
Rob P yes you can manually turn them a little bit just not too far the valves will hit in Bend if you tried to turn it a full rotation
This doesn't look like good advice. When you turn the crankshaft to TDC it is visibly pulling the cams off center... looked like close to a tooth. Just set them all to center before you tension, tried and true. This could easily damage your car if you're not careful.
Kelly T yes it does a little bit but then after the belts on and the tensions on everything lines up find it makes it easier to install the belt try it the car's been running fine since doing this video
What were the symptoms before the changing the timing belt
Hallphamazing305 there were no symptoms it just came apart while he was driving it and at the end of the video I said it didn't hurt the motor but actually it had I just didn't feel like changing the video it bent six of the valves I had to take it back apart replace 06 exhaust Valves and put it back together
+Brian Mitchell how many miles was on the car mine has 103000 miles on it should I change mine ?
Apparently you suppose to change them at 100,000 miles. I will be changing mine at 90,000
@ brian mitchell hey bro i resently change my timing belt but my car keeps shakeing need help pls thanx
So I change my timing belt last week and put it in time, tried to start the car and it runs but only if my foot holds the gas pedal. It won't stay idle or go above 3k rpms for some reason?
Do you have the mass airflow sensor plugged in
Check your timing to make sure it didn't jump time if you didn't roll it over by hand a couple times before you started it is possible that jumped when you did start it
You do not address how to align the pulleys and the crank shaft timing marks so that when the tensioner is installed the timing marks come into alignment. I have tried everything (9except the technique that works) to make this happen over 2 weeks. Incomplete how to videos are worse than no how to videos at all. Please show how you accomplished this because it isn't just "align the marks and install the tensioner" The tensioner pulls on the slack in the belt and thus the cams and then the cams are out of time. Trust me. I know.
I know it is a question of installing the belt with tension on it as you wrap it around the pulleys well; I know of no other way than to pull on the belt just hard enough so that the pulley that already has the belt on it doesn't move. I end up 1/2 to 1 whole tooth off regardless of how I clock either pulley.
I'm sorry I thought the video was rather descriptive. You can try putting tension on the pulley with a screwdriver before you release the tensioner that might alleviate your problem. The belt will already be tight therefore nothing will move when it's activated. I think I did show that the bottom crank had to be slightly off time to get the belt on then afterwards moved into place the right-hand side of the belt will have it slight bit of slack in it at first. But the paper is jammed in there to keep the belt in place and the pulley from moving it's not lightly In there it's TIGHT! I do these so often I get in a grove and leave out tips plus I'm in a hurry usually. Lol
chrysler 300 2005 to 10 uses the same 3.5 engine
Thank u a lot for this video, I'm taking my car to the dealership but the problem is there trying to charge me 1, 500
what problem you had with it