STAINLESS SAN-MAI: How its made!
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- čas přidán 24. 11. 2020
- Check out how I make 410 stainless steel and 1095 high carbon steel and turn them into a stunner of a knife! The 410ss is the non-martensitic cladding of the 1095 core blade steel providing beautiful contrast as well as some corrosion resistance.
There are many different ways of doing this technique, but this one works for me and I hope it will work for you too! Feel free to learn comments and questions and Ill do my best to answer them in a timely fashion!
Tools I used in making this billet:
-16 ton Coal Iron Works Forging Press
-Homemade 2 burner venturi forge
-Hobart MIG welder
-4" angle grinder
-2x72 belt grinder
-2 pieces of 3/16" 410 stainless Steel
-1 piece of 1095 high carbon steel
-2 strips of paper
-1 scrap steel stick for a handle
If you give this a try be sure to let me know how it goes! I'd love to see what you create!
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Follow me on Instagram @flatlineknives for regular updates on projects!
Check out my website / flatlineknives - Jak na to + styl
you didnt get lucky..thats pure skill. well done
Thank you Lance! I've been lucky to continue to have good luck with this technique since posting this video. I love that stainless San-Mai contrast!
great work. great to see folks actually doing stuff like this. so many knife makers can't or wont do this kind of stuff.
Thank you Jeff! I'm always trying something crazy 🤣
the best videos on San mai I have seen 👍
Thank you!!
Awesome job brother!!! 😎👍🏻🔨🔥🔪
Thank you Bob!
That looks awesome!
Thank you!
It's great how you know so many technical methods and terminology about your craft, AND that you are willing to walk us through it while we watch you is awesome! Quite a few smiths here on YT just just go about what they're doing, and almost forget that we are watching them. This knife is just amazing by the way!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the feed back!
I really want to make a knife now
Very inspiring! Thank you
Thank you! That means a lot!
Lovely work 💚
Thanks!
Looks amazing and great video
Thank you so much!
Nice information clean and concise
Thank you! Hopefully it's useful and helpful to anyone interested in this technique.
Nicely done
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Very nice.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it 🤘
Great work man!
Thank you Zach!
Fantastic!!!
Thank you!
Wonderful.
Thank you Don!
Nice video! Thanx for the informations mate
greets
Dennis
Any time!
Thanks. Great video. Great information!
That means a lot! Thank you!
Absolutely gorgeous! Thank you for the explanation!
Thank you! I'm glad my ramblings made sense 😂
This video is CZcams GOLD man!!! Strong work!
Thank you!
Very nice
Thanks!
Very nice work! Thank you.
Excellent video!
That's a beautiful blade cuz! Really nice explanation too!
so awesome! Turned out beautiful!
Thank you Patrick!
Beautiful knife and a lot of respect for you, the maker!
Thank you so much!
Wow, this was very informative and easy to follow. The knife came out looking really amazing. I enjoyed the carbon migration into the stainless that was wicked neat.
Thank you so much, I'm glad you enjoyed it! The carbon migration is one of my favorite parts of this process too.
@@FlatlineKnives nice job. What's the paper in between the layers for?
Wow! Very well done. Keep up the videos!
Thank you! I've got more coming up!
Awesome work!
Thank you!
Dude WOW!!! Love the knife. Well done
Thanks so much! It was a really fun project.
Well top notch work.
Beautiful craftsmanship. A great tip to glue the liners to the handle material first. Thanks for sharing. 👍🏼
Thanks! Gluing them up first saves me a bunch of headaches later in the glue up.
@@FlatlineKnives yep. I’m new to serious knife making and any good ideas help.
Really good looking blade! Nice job on the video as well..
Thank you, I really appreciate that!
That’s and awesome blade, it’s a winner
I appreciate that! Thank you!
Very nice work 💪🏻
Thanks!
I love San-Mai blades. You did a nice job on this blade! Subbed :)
Thank you! They are some of my favorites as well.
great video excellent job mate.
Thank you Randy!
Nice work, man! Love it! I'd not seen the trick with the paper sealed down inside the closed billet. I'd have thought it'd leave messy residue in there. I've seen it done on canister billets before, but not in a san-mai. May have to give it a go!
For sure, give it a try!
got here after the 48hur knife build, loved your entry and really wanted to find out what san mai was (I'm not any kind of black/bladesmith I just love watching it, I only did 'blacksmithing' once when I was in school and wow do I miss it!)
As a blacksmith I can definitely say that this is one of the most accurate guides on how to make stainless san mai. Also the paper sublayer trick is something new to me,definitely going to try it, I assume paper ash (which is pretty much pure carbon) should help regenerating ferrum and chromium from oxides.
Thanks I really appreciate that! I've had a ton of success with the paper trick. Let me know how it works for you!
@@FlatlineKnives soooo it went not quite as good as I expected. I've had success with two and three layers of stainless steel but then a glorious failure with 7,9 and 13 layers (tried to make stainless Damascus). Now I'm into making SS damascus with high temperature coating instead of welding all sides. I'll make eng subs for my video and send it to you if you are interested)
Tried this coating on a sigle piece of stainless,covered the clean surface with it and heated to about 950-1050°C and had no oxidation on the surface underneath. Now experimenting with more layers in hope to simplify the ss damascus technology)
@@FlatlineKnives I'm not a smith but I love these videos and hope to one day become a bladesmith. I was curious did you forge the billet with the paper in it? Also in canister Damascus I've seen them put peper and dried chilli peppers in the canister. What does it do? My guess is to burn up oxygen and leave a little carbon behind?
🙌🏼 joosss
🤘🤘🤘
عاشت أيدك يا بطل
Beautiful Knife! Truly amazing how the different steels produce such awesome patterns. Are there different levels of corrosion resistance with the exposed high carbon steel vs the stainless?
Thank you! The stainless cladding will be very corrosion and rust resistant and the high carbon core will have less, but the etching and oil will definitely help!
Beautiful knife! Quick question, have you ever tried 316 stainless? Because I have some and would like to try it, if it may work.
Very Very Nice!! Did you use a quenching oil for the quench? So no need to treat the stainless with air cooled aluminum plates? Are you still happy with the Coal Ironworks Press? Very interested.
Great video thank you. I wasn't aware of the 'trick' of using oil to set the dark oxides on the carbon core. I have been frustrated by how temporary the dark black was on my San Mai. Can I ask what you use? Thanks
There are a TON of different ways I've tried to help set the oxides and a deep penetration oil, like the Hopes No. 9 oil I used in this video, seems to work well. No contrast etch is perfect but I think this method works well.
It's interesting that after the quench, it was the stainless that had darkened while the 1095 remained bright. Obviously it's the other way around after the etch.
I love metallurgy for this reason! That hard martensite turns the steel almost white before tempering and etch, just like you said. Yay science!
Stainless san mai is neat, takes some skill to make that happen.
Thanks dude!
Amazing nice work!! I would like to know what happens to the 2 pieces of paper left inside the billet.
Thank you! The pieces of paper burn up and serve two purposes. 1.) They burn off any remaining oxygen that could prevent a clean weld, and 2.) Create a very minimal but not insignificant amount of carbon powder that helps the steels stick together. Hope this helps!
Do you know if it's possible to 440c/1095 core? I have some laying around the shop. Was thinking I'd attempt this as my first San mai.
Fantastic video. Thank you! I bought several nice knives over the years. Got on a Cold Steel Tanto kick. Got one of theirs with San-Mai steel and was wondering how in the world anyone could get softer steel to bond to a middle layer of harder steel. Thank you again for sharing. If I could afford it, I would love to get one of your knives. They are certainly a representation of a time in your life.
Thank you for sharing! San-mai is such a cool process in all forms, I love both the science and the outcomes 🤘
Stunning! Curious: Which Coal Ironworks press are you using? 16? 16+? 25?
Mine is the regular 16 ton and it rocks! They are great machines and Coal Ironworks is great company to work with.
@@FlatlineKnives Thats amazing to hear, as I've been debating between them and a few others. Great work!!
great video, information and end product!! one quick question regarding hardening: if you're core is 1095, which most people harden at about 1500F what stainless are you using to not overheat your 1095 core? I've been using Nitro V and AEB-L both which are 1900F and above to austenize.
Thank you! When I do the stainless steel jacketed san-mai blades, I heat treat to the core metal and I don't worry about hardening the jackets. So for this knife with the 1095 core I followed the soak and quench temps ontlined by my steel supplier. The 410 stainless steel that's on the sides gets hard enough to be wear resistant but I'm not worried about hardening them. I'd like to try the Nitro-V/AEB-L combo you are talking about though!
@@FlatlineKnives thank you for the reply!! I'm honored and surprised you would take the time to answer me! I never thought about the possibility of not fully hardening the jacket steel. I just recently was able to purchase an evenheat so I'm just starting out with stainless work. Once the weather warms up here I'm looking forward to trying a stainless san mai as i've only been doing mild steel and 1095 to this point. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your experience!
Great work! If I may ask, what does the paper between the steel layers do exactely?
Thank you! The paper does a few things but mostly it burns up any oxygen between the layers and creates basically a powdered carbon to help the forge weld.
@@FlatlineKnives great. Thanks for the reply!
No problem!
Subbed. Freaking amazing. I want 10 haha
Hahaha thanks dude!
What is the strip of paper for?
Cool viedo dude! But one question. What is that oils name? How does it work?? That is my bigest problem with san mai knives. I wipe the oxidationes alway off the blade😢
I've been enjoying the Hope's no. 9 deep penetrating oil. Lately though I've been using gun blue though and I've really been liking the results! Drastic contrast and the oxides won't wipe off!
Stunningly beautiful and sexy knife.
Did you leave paper in between or was it just for spacing?
I leave the paper in to burn up any remaining oxygen from between the layers.
Gonna give that a try , had a go at it today for the first time ever and ended up with a small billet as only half welded 😂
Hey buddy does the paper between layers have to be a specific kind ?
I don't think so, any type of regular non-coated paper should work fine.
If you only have a mig welder can you put a jacket of mild steel over the stainless so you have a way to weld it together? Or would that create an air pocket? What about a canister?
I only have a mig welder as well, and that's what I used in the video. I use regular flux core wire to weld the stainless jackets to the core metal without any issues. It's not structural, it's just to hold the pieces in place and to exclude any oxygen. I have not tried this method with a mild jacket or in canister form, but I imagine it would get even more complicated adding more steps lol. If you try it, let me know how it goes!
@@FlatlineKnives thank you for the response. I'll have to try welding them with my set up. I was told I couldn't but never attempted it. Never hurts to try. Beautiful blade btw
@@PatheticPeasant Give it a try! Never hurts to experiment, and thank you!
If your using mig, do you need stainless wire and gas, or will my normal carbon wire/gas work for the seal?
I use mig and just use regular flux core wire and it works just fine. I just make sure that I grind off all the mig bead after the forge weld before I go on to blade shaping. Hope this helps!
How did you make the wave pattern?
The wavy-ness comes from the drawing dies on my press.
What type of welder did you use to make the air tight bead? All I have is a flux core welder. I dont know if that will work or not. Thanks
My welder is a Hobart 140 and it works great for this. Flux core wire works just fine so long as you grind off all the weld bead after forging! I don't have a TIG welder so all I use is flux core wire 🤘
Thanks man.
No problem, hope it helps!
How can I get my hands on a knife like that!?
Unfortunately this one is sold and I'm not currently taking any new orders. Hopefully some day soon through!
Can this be done without a forging press?
It can, but it's very tricky as quick, even pressure is needed. Possibly could be done a flatter and a striker too.
What was the purpose of the paper between layers?
It burns up any of the air that may have been trapped between the layers after welding the billet together. It turns into carbon ash and helps facilitate a clean bond between the 410ss and the core high carbon steel.
Whats the point of putting papers in between the steels
It burns out any oxygen between the layers and ensures a clean bond while forge welding 🤘
Why did u put paper between the forge welds?? I have seen it done on canister bt why here??
I've had good luck using it to burn off any excess oxygen from between the layers at the time of forge welding. These metals don't really like being joined, so getting the area as clean and oxygen-free as possible is super important.
That is really cool, I like the way it came out. If you have a reddit account then you should also post it here: www.reddit.com/r/your_homemade_weapon/
Thanks John!
Keep up the good work. You got good skills.
I really appreciate that! Thank you again!
@@FlatlineKnives any time
Your knif beautiful give me 1 please 😊