Filler Primer - Will it make 3D Print finishing easier?
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I try out some filler primer, a thick primer designed to fill in small gaps and cracks, and see if it can be used to make finishing/sanding a 3D print much easier.
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Animatronic Caterpie: âą 3D Printed, Animatroni...
Does wood filler work on 3D Prints? âą Does Wood Filler work ...
Clearing a Clogged 3D Printed Nozzle: âą Clearing a Clogged or ...
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-Christopher Hoffman
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body filler > sand > filler primer > light sand > different colored primer > optional sand > paint
Use different colored primers so you can see your depth when sanding
The different color primer is a great suggestion to see when you've sounded down into another layer. I'll have to try that, thank you!
Great tip. Thanks
also the sanding between the layers... the primmer seems to work ok for hiding the layer pattern, but not the cracks... however, instead be using 3 paint layers you could save primmer and get better results sanding between layers... that way you will remove part of the cover that gets on the surface while the one on the lower holes wont be touched so probably on the second coat you could get an almost finish effect.
The automotive prep and painting process can essentially be applied to post processing prints, that's my assumption anyway. Auto painting tips and tricks are plentiful on CZcams.
Any idea about holes the show up mainly around edges after sanding? And scratches
I realize this was a test, but if you had sanded in between primer layers, you would have had higher quality results. The primer on the peaks would have sanded away faster than the primer in the grooves and the subsequent layer of primer would have been significantly smoother.
Rustoleum filler primer still gets a thumbs up.
I definitely agree, I learned this lesson the hard way. I spent a large amount of time sanding the 3 layers to get a smooth surface, which then required another 2 coats of priming and sanding. Sanding between the coats probably would have saved more time than it would take. Oh well, it was quite the learning experience!
Yeah, but don't you love learning while everyone else is sitting there eating popcorn just WAITING for you to make a mistake?!?! :)
There is a misconception that filler primer and leveling primer are the same. While you are "filling" the low spots, you are still building the high spots, which is why you should sand between coats. That is also the reason it gums up the sand paper. The first coat is the most important to sand after, you would see immediate results on the second coat, because the moisture in the paint actually brings out the suface imperfections.
3d printers can make curves just fine, its the resolution of the mesh that makes the vertical lines.
yeah, have to crank those subdivisions way up prior to exporting your model to STL. a Video card might not like super high poly in a game or video render, but your printer doesn't really care. (only the horsepower of the machine you are slicing/preparing G code on will care)
So more subdivision equals smoother print? Sorry if silly question. I spent most of today reading the MM and blender support.
pretty much.
Llama Sama thanks
All parts I model are made in an engineering program, like AD Inventor, instead of a program like 3DS max, so the curves are exported at a much higher resolution and my printer prints them without a single noticeable line. Honestly I believe a program like 3DS Max (modelling vertex by vertex to control performance) is not meant for CNC machines. 3D printers are considered an exception because they CAN produce organic models, but I don't agree with treating them any differently than other CNC machines.
Yus, filler sandable primer is the best. Though I have found using 120 grit sandpaper to knock away print lines first is the best. The "striations" are deceptively deep, meaning you'd need just an absurd amount of primer coats to get rid of them completely. 60 grit just scores the surface and 220+ takes too long to do anything. 120, primer, 320 problem areas + lightly throughout, primer, 600+ up to 2k wet sanding. Glass smooth, top coats go on beautifully, cannot tell it was even 3d printed.
Other tools/things that can help with finishing:
dremel or other rotary tool with a variety of bits
files of various sizes, shapes, and grits
smooth-ons xtc-3d 2 part epoxy is useful in some situations, but not all
and one I'm experimenting with...
blasting cabinet with 60 gallon air compressor.
I've been playing around with using a blasting cabinet in the first stage of finishing to knock out the print lines quick, but I haven't found a compelling media and a low enough grit to be any faster than just 120 grit sandpaper by hand unfortunately...
i agree i always do a quick sand 1st, then spot fill big gaps n spots before filler primer and lots of wet and dry. any luck improving the blasting cabinet?
Nhhhr re
This is my favorite video about finishing off a 3D print. Thank you!
Primer really needs to be wet sanded (it works miracles)
It makes it looks really good actually. Seems to be working really well.
This answered a few questions and has given an idea on moving forward with my project. Cheers for that.
Thanks for your feedback. I'm aware that this is an "old" video - but let's face it, most tutorials you can find online use an airbrush and expensive stuff, and thanks to your video I was able to start painting a few prints using very cheap paint and primer (2⏠a can each)
Thanks for sharing with the world :)
The imperfections look more realistic in what is going to be a "metal" helmet. Pretty cool.
Most professional pattern-makers and mold makers use a combination of primer and filler, alternating layers and filling in spots, till all imperfections are covered. There really isn't an 'instant' solution for finishing a 3D print.
Thank you so much for making this video!
Thanks for the upload.
Nice! Was looking for that type of filler here in Sweden... No success yet... Great to see how it works in action. I think those cracks at the front looks correct for a medieval helmet ;)
I do this professionally at veloce engineering and we use acrylic putty and automotive body filler for rough fdm parts. We have SLA printers were all it takes is a bit of sanding with a fine 3m sanding sponge fallowed by primer filler and sanding it back down smooth before painting.
You've sold me. I'm getting some today for my helmet!
Let me know how it turns out!
This stuff works very well. I just used this on a big print off my ender 3. if you sand after every coat. If you use 600 grit wet sand at the end it feels like glass.
I think you'd have good results of taking a pumice-tipped Dremel bit to the areas that poke out too much and carefully grinding them down. Then add a tiny bit of water to the wood filler and apply a light coat to the entire surface of the helm (also filling in gaps and smoothing out the step-down surface transitions). Sand down the wood filler, then apply a coat of primer, wet sand, apply another coat, then wet sand for the final finish.
Man, thanks a lot! great video
For the Sanding, You can actually get the filer primer off the paper, it just needs a brushing to clear it off for another use.
wow filler primer is so good
Idk if you've already tried it but I've used Tamiya plastic model putty to smoot out and fill in areas. It's really good cuz it's also a plastic but you can also use lacquer thinner to paint it on so it doesn't remove details.
That is super cool.
Tip from a 3d printer fan who is also an accomplished woodworker. thin that wood filler out with a bit of water (if its elmers) and paint it on the whole model. I learned this trick from working with plywood. i use it to hide the layers on the edge of the panels when i have a painted project. you should try out how well the thinned filler sticks. i haven't tried it yet myself as i never even thought of using wood filler on plastic before!
Hey man great vid, nice idea about the use of woodfiller did it work well in the long run?
Also are the files for this beautiful helmet available somewhere?
I used the primer filler on PLA printed model, and it took so many coats to cover those imperfections that details were covered up as well.
this primer is good to also sculpt with... like very slight fills where you dont want to use filler (or dont notice at the time you should have).. it just dries SLOOOOOOOOOW, especially when you lay it thick. honestly i lay buncha heavy layers during the course of a day and let the damn thing dry for a month. then it sands lovely. the quoted 4 hour dry time is literally for a dust coat :) so after i sand down the gigantic mess of blob i do a thin layer, wait like 2 days, sand it and then use my fancy tamiya primer
Keith Baker gave some good advice, but I figured I'd give some myself. You want to sand inbetween coats of the filler primer, Paint-Sand-Paint-Sand etc. as needed. For smaller details get yourself some spot putty. It's kind of like bondo but for smaller cracks and should really clean up any deep cuts in the print.
I used it on a Hulk print.. let it dry and just dusted the areas I wanted to fill in.. it guns up sandpaper rather quickly..but it made a really nice finish.
For those really fine cracks you could use the wood filler again. My uncle when working with wood would first use his finger tips to massage it into fine crack then using a damp cloth (not wet) he'd wipe the surface of excess filler away leaving the cracks filled.
Ha you said your uncle working with wood and putting his fingers into cracks
As far as I know the vertical lines are not from splitting a curve up, but are actually a "shadow" of the infill.
I like the layer cracks on the front vertical 'Iron', I think it gives it a little more authenticity. :-)
Was thinking the same thing.
I actually agree if you're saying it looks interesting. But shirley this is supposed to look like it's made from metal. And don't most fighters like to polish their helmet. ;ÂŹ)
sure most knigths polish their equipment, but the layer cracks there looked like battle damage, that you canÂŽt polish out. Ever seen an re-enactment sword and shield? Over time, there will be tends, bends, scratches and other artefacts. You might go ahead and break/remove burrs, but you can not reattach material. so the part eventually gets permanent scares.
Ah, well, no. I'm certain that any Olde Worlde English Knight of the Realm would not polish anything of that sort. He will definitely have had servants to do that for him.
These days though, it's all very different.
yeah if it's cast iron. I've never seen cracks on forged steel.
nice bucket right there :)
Hi for issue with clogging sandpaper when prime metal and filler on cars we used wet and dry sand paper in various frits just dip the paper in water sand a bit then dip in water again we got some realy good finnishes using this method hope this helps
I may be wrong but i'm quite sure that those virtical lines are from your infill not your curve segment. I did an oddish, which is all round, and i dont have any of that at all, but I have prints with infill and those lines are always in line with the infill pattern.
You are supposed to sand between coats of primer filler. You're supposed to determine if a second and/or third coats are necessary. Of course you want the last coat to completely cover the object being painted, but sand with progressively finer sand paper with each coat. Eventually the sand paper will be so fine it won't sand through the primer and the sanding scratches will be so fine they won't show through the primer either.
if you still read old comments, i recommend setting up linear advance on your printer to alleviate those bulged corners.
As a BIG tip, you should ALWAYS wet sand with automotive type products (like this primer/filler). Saves a TON on sandpaper (the paper doesn't clog up), and produces a better finish. Faster as well.
I think my main issue with clogging in this instance was not letting the paint fully dry before sanding. When I went back two days later to sand the other half of the helmet, it sanded beautifully.
Wet sanding would definitely help the finish after though!
Hoffman Engineering Iâve found this Rustoleum fills nicely, but takes a couple days to dry before wet sanding...
big tip! Use a good primer before the filler, it makes all the difference
3:49 "Get outta there"đđđ
What grit of sandpaper do you recommend for sanding 3D prints?
Praise the sun
Hi! What kind of sandpaper do you use? Thanks!
I thought he was in the woods but actually he's in his nearby carpark
try transtar 2 in 1 primer it is for plastic, about 10 bucks a can. But dries really quick and sands without clogging sandpaper. Just a suggestion pretty cool work though.
Has anyone else suggested painting a layer of primer, waiting till its dry then sand it THEN do another primer layer? I think it would use less primer and make for a better fill of the 3D Lines
i heard applying the first two layers with a brush helps for filling the gaps
You should try "knifing putty filler" its designed for minuscule imperfections on car paint where normal filler is too thick. Knifing putty is thinner on a molecular level which allows it to be used on tiny pin holes. Its also a bit chalky without paint so its very easy to sand down.
I'm not sure if your talking about the same thing , but her, in the US we call it "spot putty" . It's basically really thick sanding primer in a tube that you can apply with a bondo filler spatula or a thick rubber body squeegee. It works good. The main problem with those types of primer fillers is that they shrink...a lot! You gotta get the worst bumps sanded down first. Nomatter what, You're gonna be sanding. LOL
where did you get the solaire helmet stl file?
This and the last video on the wood filler helped me alot! I ordered some pieces that were 3d printed and I have to assemble them into a cosplay gun. The print is not the best quality and theres lots of gaps/small holes and I think I will try wood filler for sure for those and maybe the filler primer for the whole thing. Also, I found your youtube because I google searched about attaching 3d printed pieces together and came across your ABS juice, glue and sludge or whatever. Very helpful!!
you can prevent using so much sandpaper by wiping the sandpaper frequently on something âabrasiveâ i guess, a towel or something might work but i use a carpet square sample that i had.
whats the best paint ti use on 3 print after fill and prime?
I'm in preception wether should I buy the filler or primer? I need to glue parts together and than make them look like one part so I'm guessing filler would be a better option to fill the holes? but than on the other hand I am also planning to paint the print so I was thinking of using primer aswell. Would this be a good method? I'm not really experienced since I usually dont procces prints after they have been printed.. thanks for the answers!
exactly what i was looking for, thanks! 1 question. ive just finished printing all the pieces to my helmet, and am wondering what is a good bonding glue to connect the pieces together? If you printed this in seperate pieces, what glue worked best for you?
These pieces were printed in ABS, so i used some acetone on the two mating surfaces to slightly dissolve it, and pushed them together. Creates a strong solvant weld.
You should wait at least 10 hours before sanding. Also do wet sanding with 400-800 grit. Wet sanding gives a better finish.
Hey, any chance I can get the file of the helmet's 3d model so I can print it as well?
You have to scuff and aply adhesion primer before applying primer, and sealer undercoat would work better than filler primer.
Thanks for sharing your results.
At first I assumed a .1 layer height and wondered if a .3 layer height might have been easier to cover up. Of course now I wonder the opposite.
Also, what grit sandpaper did you use?
0.2 is what I use, strong layer adhesion but not too hard to post process
High fill primer you should sand down in between coats
Would the vertical lines in the helmet come from the way the model was created and not the printer? If that was made in Sketchup and you only specified 60 sides on a circle you would notice that more on a large circle like as on that cylindrical helmet than you would if you had used 240 sides.
Still a really cool helmet. Is it for Cosplay?
Norbert
you should be using a carbon silicate sandpaper (black colored) vs. wood sandpaper. It will "load" less.
when itried to primer my 3d print, it wasnt coming out matte, it was very flowing and liquid.. any ideas?
Those layer lines are from improperly adjusted printers and settings.
Have you tried Bondo spot glazing putty? (I might have flubbed the name)
that primer works best with wet sanding
not sure if you said it or not, but if you sand the plastic first the filler primer works much better. just like any paint job the better the prep work the better the paint.
It wasn't fully dry. That's why it was "gunking up"
How did you print such a HUGE helmet? The entire bucket looks like 1 or 2 pieces :O
Gummy primer on sandpaper means more drying time needed.
Never did you mention what grit sand paper or talk about the sanding block you used... but i do like the rest... i am thinking a thin coat of epoxy or uv resin followed buy a coat of 2 of this high build..light wet sanding with 400 grit ..then base coat /clear coat... i believe if model is sliced well it should look very good...f coarse the better the print the better the over all finished product...
seems like, it would be better and easier if you sand before filler primer. than if necessary repeat sand-spray cycle until surface gets smooth.
Wet sanding would be a better process rather than dry sanding. This will limit the amount of sand paper you are using by removing the sanded material that is filling your sand paper.
Honestly some of those cracks look cool in the helmet, as if you were in a battle lol but I see why it wouldnât be great for other things
What printer do you use?
Vinyl spackling and any size paint brush.. second coat wet the brush with the spackling and you will see the vinyl smooth out as you keep painting with the wet spackling.. please try it and make a video of it..
what printer you use?
How long do you have to wait for the filler primer to dry between each coat?
Thats what I'm looking for too
You might get better results if you sand in between each coat. It probably won't clog up your sand paper as much because you won't have 3 coats sitting on top of the layers. It may take less primer as well.
Yeah, that was a lesson learned here. Sanding between the layers would have given me a smoother surface, and I think the issue with gumming was due to the paint not being fully cured. I came back to do the other side about 4 days later, and it was much easier to sand. Still took forever to get a smooth, consistent surface though, and I had to remove a lot of the primer to achieve it.
The vertical lines probably show because your original model wasn't having enough polygons to begin with. Your slicer should make enough small straight lines for it to be invisible if your model has enough detail.
That fly wanted to get high, I experienced that when I was giving my ken lamdrum Spider-Man faceshell the same primer youâre using lol hate flys
Yup those vertical line are from the actual model, printers can do smooth circular movements.
What is the benefit of this if I may ask?
7:09 - No, that's because of low resolution source file mesh, a fullstep on typical printer's stepper motor is something like 0.15mm, not gonna produce this large segments.
Sand between layers. That's how it's supposed to be done.
You need to use at least 3 coats of the 2-in-1 primer. Then sand.
Every in UK to buy or some I can use
Man did you sell that solaire helm? if not where can i get the 3d file
next time get a 120grit flap wheel and attach it to your drill. Knock off most of those ridges and you'll be good with the primer. Just dont stay with the wheel too long on one spot as it could heat up the plastic and make it soft.
How about smearing the whole print with filler? The spot with filler looks pretty good from the start.
Jump to 2:35 for spraying of product.
Nice helmet!
You could of used Zpoxy stuff to help smooth your print.
Where i can buy it
better lighting when you were inside would have helped with the detail
To be fair, it didn't print the vertical lines by mistake, that is just how it was modelled :) Nice video
emilclaudell yeah , it was low Polly. but the model was probably made for a smaller size print.
Just FYI, it isn't layer cracks. It's actually called delamination.
the can says it will only fill in spots smaller than a 16th inch deep.
yeah you're supposed to sand in between coats...
use the 500-800 sandpaper first, and 1000 sandpaper in the second before sprying, and after sprying i recommend to only use 2000 sandpaper, and all of that must be using a WET SANDPAPER that can do better than the dry one. learn about painting if you want to get a better resolution! this is why i like FDM 3d printer, cause i have a lot experience about painting :D
and do you know after all that you still can cover it with putty? use yellow putty that used for cars. And then recoating with the epoxy, 2000 wet sandpaper, and coating it with any car paint, and the last is clear coating, idk what it call in your country, because my english is so bad :v
I had the same issue with the primer clogging up the sandpaper. I wonder if the primer should be given more time to dry. I sanded the primer after 24 hours.
When I went back to it a few days later to sand the other half, I had a much easier time sanding it. I think the can recommends a 24 cure, but in my experience it needed more than that, especially with the 3 layers I did on the helmet.
Did you end up trying the wet sanding?