Such a great video - really helpful and well explained. Only confusion that I had was anti-clockwise or clockwise depends on perspective. I got it now. The top of the nut needs to turn right (clockwise) to lower the pedal
Excellent video... very useful. My wife just bought a fairly new C1 with a high bite point. Just the info I needed, however I found that with ours it was easier to reach it from under the car, no need to jack it up. Thanks
@@richardskead1 unfortunately it didn’t work, I got someone to assist. Pedal too high, clutch is still high on the car, not been able to figure out how to adjust since but it’s still driving tentatively
Thank you for the upload. I bought a Citroen C1, and the clutch pedal had no play. Causing it to slip on heavy acceleration. Turn the white nut (in my cause, it was black as it was 2007 model) anti-clockwise. And..... Voilà! No more slipping under heavy acceleration and clutch pedal has good play before engaging the clutch. Thank you for your upload. It was much appreciated very clear instructions 🎉
@fasn279 my clutch was still high before the adjustment. It is still high now. It just altered the free play. You can adjust the position of the pedal resting position google it. You will find out the procedure to do it or download the manual it is in there also. (I downloaded the manual online, so I know it is in there)
My mechanic adjusted clutch for me, but he did have to jack side of car up. My Aygo is now so enjoyable to drive, no more stalling and no more rolling back due to that damn high biting point that I could never master.
Great video - saved me from tearing off the gearbox to change the clutch! When working out which way to turn the cable it helps to remember that you are actually slackening the cable. Most cable adjustments require tightening to adjust for cable stretch.
You're not adjusting for cable stretch, you are adjusting for clutch wear. As the centre plate friction material wears, the pressure plate diaphragm spring moves out. This pushes the release fork back. You need to lengthen the cable to compensate.
Cheers. I did this. There was virtually zero play in mine. It didn't lower the pedal, but I have some free play now. So the bite point is lower. Maybe I need to adjust the cable at the clutch lever also.
Thanks for the tip.. I want to fit a boot light in my 107. Can you advise how I could lead a wire from the battery to the boot and how to go about fitting a switch..
Just clarifying, adjusting/turning the plastic nut adjusts the clutch biting point higher or lower; it doesn’t change the actual clutch pedal height! To change the pedal height, there’s a separate adjuster bolt & stopper on the clutch pedal inside the car.
Adjusting the plastic nut at the gearbox end of the cable actually adjusts the cable length - hence it adjusts BOTH the bite point and the resting height of the pedal. There is a pedal stop to limit the maximum height of the pedal, however the pedal should not hit the stop in normal operation. If the pedal is contacting the stop then the cable is way out of adjustment. Once the pedal is against the stop then the release bearing is being held against the pressure plate and the clutch cannot fully engage. The clutch will start to wear very quickly. The pedal stop position is set at the factory and should not be altered.
Hmm not sure about this. There should be some free play at the top of the pedal travel, this indicates the cable is adjusted correctly but the pedal mechanism might still be contacting the stopper and be fine.
So I got someone to help, they lifted the pedal while I tried to adjust the cable, but the black cap didn’t move. I’m assuming this means the clutch is too high and potentially going?
It may be that the clutch pedal is very high and at (or close to) the pedal top stop. My advice is to have someone hold down the clutch pedal to release the clutch. Then use a solid object (e.g. a big socket or a spanner etc) to jam the clutch operating lever (on top of the gearbox) in the released position. Now your assistant can take their foot off the clutch pedal and the pedal will be floppy with lots of slack in the cable. Rotate the plastic fluted nut a couple of turns clockwise. Operate clutch pedal again and remove the object blocking the operating lever. Now you have more free play at the pedal and can complete the fine adjustment as shown in the video.
Just a quick question, clockwise or anticlockwise depends on weather you are looking down into the engine bay or underneath the car looking up. If you are standing, adjusting it leaning into the engine bay is it clockwise to lower the pedal
Clockwise/anticlockwise directions are given from the perspective of standing in front of the car and reaching down to the adjuster, as shown in the video.
So which direction do you turn the nut if the clutch comes in late when you release the pedal? Clockwise or anticlockwise? And is the direction of turn for clockwise/anticlockwise determined from the clutch looking back down the cable or looking forward towards the clutch?
If the clutch is biting high then you need to lengthen the cable. Standing in front of the car looking down at the gearbox you need to rotate the plastic adjuster clockwise.
The service manual specifies a particular distance between the floor and the resting pedal. Normally this puts the clutch pedal just a little higher than the brake pedal. But really its up to you - anything between level with brake pedal to about 20mm above it is ok. So long as the clutch releases fully when fully depressed you'll be fine.
Please help!! I successfully adjusted the clutch pedal to a lower position. BUT, after doing this my brake light does not turn off. If I push up the pedal from underneath, it does switch off. I don't understand the connection between the 2
Adjusting the clutch pedal height should not affect the brake light switch. Possibly your brake light switch has come loose or is misaligned. The brake light switch is mounted on the brake pedal bracket in the footwell. Get down in the footwell and check that plastic switch body is securely mounted in its bracket and the electrical connector is pushed on properly and wires are not chafing on anything.
@@ericchowanietz7993 Thank you for your answer and confirming my thoughts. I asked my gf to release the tension on the clutch pedal when adjusting the cable. Maybe she accidentally touched the switch on the brake pedal. For now I put something under the pedal so my battery doesn't run down. I'll check later today
Super video and very helpful. Wifes c1 has slight clutch slip. Gears engage fine but no free play at all on pedal. Solid push from the start. Would this adjustment work to rectify this and if so looking from top down into engine bay would adjusting nut need turning to my left (anti clock) or to my right (clockwise). Many thanks
The clutch pedal should be level with the brake pedal, or slightly above it. Try lifting the clutch pedal. If the pedal is resting high and when you try to lift it it is already against the stop and won't lift then this is likely the reason for your clutch slip and the cable needs to be adjusted urgently. You would turn the adjuster clockwise to lengthen the cable. If, however, you can lift the pedal a centimetre or two then cable adjustment is not the reason for the slip and it is likely that the clutch is worn out.
@@ericchowanietz7993 thanks for getting back. So I can't get an assistant to lift the pedal back to give slack to make adjustment as the pedal is solid. I've had the pedal pressed and put a wedge on block to allow me to adjust. Looking top down I'm adjusting to the right clockwise and the pedal is actually rising. Wedge out and worked clutch but now I can hear clutch slightly engaged before pedal is pressed. Should I be adjusting opposite way. Many thanks
@@jmaud2855 Standing in front of the car facing the windscreen you need to turn the top of the plastic adjuster nut to the right. This should have the effect of slackening the cable and lowering the pedal.
@@ericchowanietz7993brilliant thanks ever so much. Would this increase pedal free play along with adjusting clutch release bite point when pulling away.
@@ericchowanietz7993 Does the MMT need an ECU re-calibration to offer something similar? It was done a few times by my local dealer (official TOYOTA licensed) but issue re-appears for me after a month.
You can actually do this yourself. You don't need anyone else providing you have access to a lift. I've done 3 this month. With the car up in the air and not too high, you can reach up one side of the subframe with your left arm and the other side of the subframe with your right arm. This way it is very easy to pull the cable and its adjuster away slightly from the lock pin whilst adjusting it the same time.
All 1.0 litre petrol models are fitted with a cable operated clutch. I believe that the 1.4 HDi Diesel engine model (2005-2014) was fitted with a hydraulic clutch.
That means the cable has not been adjusted for a long time. Clutch wear means the pedal has risen until it has hit the stop. To adjust it you should have someone press down on the clutch pedal and hold it down. Observe the clutch operating lever on top of the gearbox and use something (e.g. a large socket, an adjustable spanner etc) to jam it. Now release the clutch pedal. There will now be slack in the cable for you to turn the cable adjuster nut. Turn the nut clockwise about 5-6 turns. Now press the clutch pedal down and remove whatever you used to jam the operating lever. You should now have free play at the top of the pedal and you can finish the adjustment process as in the video.
Have an assistant push down and hold the pedal. Go to the gearbox and place a hard object such as a large socket or a spanner between the clutch release lever and a solid part of the gearbox casing - this is to jam the lever in a partially released position. Then slowly release the pedal. The lever should be jammed and there will be slack in the cable. Adjust the cable to put more slack into it. Press pedal again. Remove object. Now adjust cable as in video.
11 months on but still just what I needed...such a simple explanation and my hands just squeezed in
Absolute star in your explanation. Will do mine now as it a little high, so its clockwise to lower it.
Thank you, just adjusted my son’s car. Much better now. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks brought a aygo thought it needed a clutch doing now adjusted the cable and it’s all good
Such a great video - really helpful and well explained. Only confusion that I had was anti-clockwise or clockwise depends on perspective. I got it now. The top of the nut needs to turn right (clockwise) to lower the pedal
Which is the top of the nut though ?😊
Best explanation of this issue I've seen - thank you.
Thanks eric adjusted my grandaughters c1 learning to drive much improved lower bite now thanks
Thanks for this, as it was high on my daughters C1 took 5 mins to do and now it’s were it should be cheers
Excellent video... very useful. My wife just bought a fairly new C1 with a high bite point. Just the info I needed, however I found that with ours it was easier to reach it from under the car, no need to jack it up. Thanks
Thank you so much, you my friend are a godsend; I’ve been trying to figure out how to move the black part for so long! Great video 😊
so have i hopefully that does the trick i will try tomorrow , did it work for you ?
@@richardskead1 unfortunately it didn’t work, I got someone to assist. Pedal too high, clutch is still high on the car, not been able to figure out how to adjust since but it’s still driving tentatively
Spot on common sense video. Much appreciated.
Thank you for the upload. I bought a Citroen C1, and the clutch pedal had no play. Causing it to slip on heavy acceleration. Turn the white nut (in my cause, it was black as it was 2007 model) anti-clockwise. And..... Voilà! No more slipping under heavy acceleration and clutch pedal has good play before engaging the clutch.
Thank you for your upload. It was much appreciated very clear instructions 🎉
so your clutch was too low?
@fasn279 my clutch was still high before the adjustment. It is still high now. It just altered the free play. You can adjust the position of the pedal resting position google it.
You will find out the procedure to do it or download the manual it is in there also. (I downloaded the manual online, so I know it is in there)
Thank you very much for this video, your explanations are great!
Excellent video, providing all the info I needed
Excellent video and Excellent explanation...I'm gonna try this on my sons aygo now....thanks for the awesome video!
Great video, thanks for this very good description! 😊
You saved my Aygo. Many thanks brother.
Thank you, bought a 107 yesterday and felt that the clutch releases quite high. Gonna try and see if I can lower the clutch pedal.
Thanks for the detailed introduction
My mechanic adjusted clutch for me, but he did have to jack side of car up. My Aygo is now so enjoyable to drive, no more stalling and no more rolling back due to that damn high biting point that I could never master.
Brilliantly explained thanks
You are a life saver. Thank you
Another thankyou, such a good explanation 😊
Great video - saved me from tearing off the gearbox to change the clutch! When working out which way to turn the cable it helps to remember that you are actually slackening the cable. Most cable adjustments require tightening to adjust for cable stretch.
You're not adjusting for cable stretch, you are adjusting for clutch wear. As the centre plate friction material wears, the pressure plate diaphragm spring moves out. This pushes the release fork back. You need to lengthen the cable to compensate.
You can use a screwdriver to push lever back instead of lifting clutch if on own. Can take off gearbox cables with a clips much easier access
Clearly explained,thanks for video.
Cheers. I did this. There was virtually zero play in mine. It didn't lower the pedal, but I have some free play now. So the bite point is lower. Maybe I need to adjust the cable at the clutch lever also.
Thank you, excellent video, very helpful!!
Great explanation thanks a lot
Very helpful, thanks.
Thanks for the tip.. I want to fit a boot light in my 107. Can you advise how I could lead a wire from the battery to the boot and how to go about fitting a switch..
Well explained
Thanks😁
Thanks mate
Legend 🎉
Just clarifying, adjusting/turning the plastic nut adjusts the clutch biting point higher or lower; it doesn’t change the actual clutch pedal height!
To change the pedal height, there’s a separate adjuster bolt & stopper on the clutch pedal inside the car.
Adjusting the plastic nut at the gearbox end of the cable actually adjusts the cable length - hence it adjusts BOTH the bite point and the resting height of the pedal.
There is a pedal stop to limit the maximum height of the pedal, however the pedal should not hit the stop in normal operation. If the pedal is contacting the stop then the cable is way out of adjustment. Once the pedal is against the stop then the release bearing is being held against the pressure plate and the clutch cannot fully engage. The clutch will start to wear very quickly.
The pedal stop position is set at the factory and should not be altered.
Hmm not sure about this. There should be some free play at the top of the pedal travel, this indicates the cable is adjusted correctly but the pedal mechanism might still be contacting the stopper and be fine.
yes, a common theme with these is clutch pedal too high, a quick adjustment and all is well
Please my car is only 40000 run and today the cluth is to hard while running and i am unable to shift gear when car is running.
Please help
So I got someone to help, they lifted the pedal while I tried to adjust the cable, but the black cap didn’t move. I’m assuming this means the clutch is too high and potentially going?
It may be that the clutch pedal is very high and at (or close to) the pedal top stop. My advice is to have someone hold down the clutch pedal to release the clutch. Then use a solid object (e.g. a big socket or a spanner etc) to jam the clutch operating lever (on top of the gearbox) in the released position. Now your assistant can take their foot off the clutch pedal and the pedal will be floppy with lots of slack in the cable. Rotate the plastic fluted nut a couple of turns clockwise. Operate clutch pedal again and remove the object blocking the operating lever. Now you have more free play at the pedal and can complete the fine adjustment as shown in the video.
Just a quick question, clockwise or anticlockwise depends on weather you are looking down into the engine bay or underneath the car looking up. If you are standing, adjusting it leaning into the engine bay is it clockwise to lower the pedal
Clockwise/anticlockwise directions are given from the perspective of standing in front of the car and reaching down to the adjuster, as shown in the video.
So which direction do you turn the nut if the clutch comes in late when you release the pedal? Clockwise or anticlockwise? And is the direction of turn for clockwise/anticlockwise determined from the clutch looking back down the cable or looking forward towards the clutch?
If the clutch is biting high then you need to lengthen the cable. Standing in front of the car looking down at the gearbox you need to rotate the plastic adjuster clockwise.
Should the clutch and brake pedals be the same height after the adjustment?
The service manual specifies a particular distance between the floor and the resting pedal. Normally this puts the clutch pedal just a little higher than the brake pedal. But really its up to you - anything between level with brake pedal to about 20mm above it is ok. So long as the clutch releases fully when fully depressed you'll be fine.
Please help!! I successfully adjusted the clutch pedal to a lower position. BUT, after doing this my brake light does not turn off. If I push up the pedal from underneath, it does switch off. I don't understand the connection between the 2
Adjusting the clutch pedal height should not affect the brake light switch. Possibly your brake light switch has come loose or is misaligned. The brake light switch is mounted on the brake pedal bracket in the footwell. Get down in the footwell and check that plastic switch body is securely mounted in its bracket and the electrical connector is pushed on properly and wires are not chafing on anything.
@@ericchowanietz7993 Thank you for your answer and confirming my thoughts. I asked my gf to release the tension on the clutch pedal when adjusting the cable. Maybe she accidentally touched the switch on the brake pedal. For now I put something under the pedal so my battery doesn't run down. I'll check later today
Hi, how much higher should the clutch pedal be than the brake pedal. How many centimeters should it be? thanks
It can be level with the brake pedal or just slightly above (1-2cm).
Super video and very helpful. Wifes c1 has slight clutch slip. Gears engage fine but no free play at all on pedal. Solid push from the start. Would this adjustment work to rectify this and if so looking from top down into engine bay would adjusting nut need turning to my left (anti clock) or to my right (clockwise). Many thanks
The clutch pedal should be level with the brake pedal, or slightly above it. Try lifting the clutch pedal. If the pedal is resting high and when you try to lift it it is already against the stop and won't lift then this is likely the reason for your clutch slip and the cable needs to be adjusted urgently. You would turn the adjuster clockwise to lengthen the cable. If, however, you can lift the pedal a centimetre or two then cable adjustment is not the reason for the slip and it is likely that the clutch is worn out.
@@ericchowanietz7993 thanks for getting back. So I can't get an assistant to lift the pedal back to give slack to make adjustment as the pedal is solid. I've had the pedal pressed and put a wedge on block to allow me to adjust. Looking top down I'm adjusting to the right clockwise and the pedal is actually rising. Wedge out and worked clutch but now I can hear clutch slightly engaged before pedal is pressed. Should I be adjusting opposite way. Many thanks
@@jmaud2855 Standing in front of the car facing the windscreen you need to turn the top of the plastic adjuster nut to the right. This should have the effect of slackening the cable and lowering the pedal.
@@ericchowanietz7993brilliant thanks ever so much. Would this increase pedal free play along with adjusting clutch release bite point when pulling away.
@@jmaud2855 Should lower the pedal resting point and lower the bite point - provided the clutch is not worn out.....
Does this apply to the MMT (multi-manual mode transmissions)?
No.
@@ericchowanietz7993 Does the MMT need an ECU re-calibration to offer something similar? It was done a few times by my local dealer (official TOYOTA licensed) but issue re-appears for me after a month.
See this document www.scribd.com/document/255813353/INF134-MMT-Clutch-Kit-ADT330265-266-274
@@ericchowanietz7993 Thanks!
You can actually do this yourself. You don't need anyone else providing you have access to a lift. I've done 3 this month. With the car up in the air and not too high, you can reach up one side of the subframe with your left arm and the other side of the subframe with your right arm. This way it is very easy to pull the cable and its adjuster away slightly from the lock pin whilst adjusting it the same time.
Sure, if you have a lift its pretty easy. The method shown in the video is for an amateur mechanic to do in their driveway or at the roadside.
Hey, you must have pretty long arms to embrace the car front..., haven't you?
You can also lift the clutch pedal and jam a rock underneath it to hold it up and then adjust
This is also for the Aygo 2013 MK1 I presume. Great tip. Will inspect this in the coming days. Have a nice day!
I have a 2009 model. My garage man says it has a hydraulic clutch, couldn't find a cable.
All 1.0 litre petrol models are fitted with a cable operated clutch. I believe that the 1.4 HDi Diesel engine model (2005-2014) was fitted with a hydraulic clutch.
Thank you. I will tell it to him. Strange he did not see it.
My on son's car there's no movement on the pedal for someone to release it
That means the cable has not been adjusted for a long time. Clutch wear means the pedal has risen until it has hit the stop.
To adjust it you should have someone press down on the clutch pedal and hold it down. Observe the clutch operating lever on top of the gearbox and use something (e.g. a large socket, an adjustable spanner etc) to jam it. Now release the clutch pedal. There will now be slack in the cable for you to turn the cable adjuster nut. Turn the nut clockwise about 5-6 turns. Now press the clutch pedal down and remove whatever you used to jam the operating lever. You should now have free play at the top of the pedal and you can finish the adjustment process as in the video.
What can you do if the clutch pedal has no free play to lift?
Have an assistant push down and hold the pedal. Go to the gearbox and place a hard object such as a large socket or a spanner between the clutch release lever and a solid part of the gearbox casing - this is to jam the lever in a partially released position. Then slowly release the pedal. The lever should be jammed and there will be slack in the cable. Adjust the cable to put more slack into it. Press pedal again. Remove object. Now adjust cable as in video.
Is it the same for mk 1 model?
Yes it is.
Can you do this on a 2016 c1 ? Many thanks
Yes. It applies to all models 2005-2021 with the 1.0L petrol engine.
@@ericchowanietz7993 great I’ll have a look this week 👍
@@ericchowanietz7993 worked a treat many thanks 🙏
@@ericchowanietz7993 is there any chance you can demonstrate how to either raise a c1 mk2 onto wheel ramps or two axel stand safely - tia
Parlez français merci
I'm wondering why this video had to be 8 and a half minutes