Couple of points: 1) It's best not to start a copy with the final Stonehenge paper - start with something cheap and tough like manila which can take a lot of erasing. Once you've done your rough copy on the manila, turn it over, cover the back of your drawing area with rough shading, and then put the sheet on top your good paper and draw over the rough drawing, thus transferring it to the good paper. 2) The Bargue book recommends enlarging the plates to 18x24" size. Thiis fellow is working with copies the same size that they appear in the book, which is too small.
Thank you for all the tips you gave in this video. I am wondering why the copies of Bargue you display are so small. They are supposed to be 46 x 60 cm, some have so many details that it is worth respecting their original sizes. Also they are supposed to be copied using charcoal, which is easier when the drawing and the model are bigger.
We have our students do 2 copies in pencil at this smaller size and then 2 more in a larger size in charcoal. This helps the students by starting with an easier medium.
Ques 1. How can one be accurate in measuring the horizontals without a right angle? Just holding up the fishing line and eyeballing a 90-degree angle seems like it could give a false measurement. Ques 2. What about the Bargue line drawings that are printed above each shaded drawing? Should one start with that? Then tape up the rendered drawing in the same place? Or in copying Bargue drawings does one do both? Something I've never understood about copying Bargue drawings. Thanks.
1- Measurements are meant to be a guide to get you as close as possible. Ultimately, your eye should be trained to be more accurate than any measurement. That's where a good teacher offering daily critiques and corrections helps overcome those constraints of measuring. 2- I typically don't show students the simplified line drawing that goes with the completed Bargue drawing. I want the students to be able to make their own decisions on what they feel are the most essential lines of definition as they develop their copy drawing. I hope this helps.
It is typically awkward for new students, but they adjust quickly. Also, when trying to train your eye to be accurate, it is best to control every element that you can. Obviously, later on, when your eye is trained, you are far more capable of working in less than ideal situations. This is the way we set up for beginning students. But not everything we do is this constrained.
It depends on the size of the subject you are drawing. But the basic rule is that in order to take the whole of the subject in at once (to see the entire subject tin order o judge overall proportion and continuity) you must be at least three times the height of the subject away from the subject.
I am a beginner and even i can say some of his points are useless. The bargue drawing course book provides steps to draw the bargue plates. This guy misses some of them.
Really good. Keep up the good work. Thank you from Brazil.
It helps a lot! And the details are really useful. Thanks from China!
乌蝇哥 thanks for watching. Glad it helped!
Hard to hear... but, it offers some really good advice, especially for left & right handers (something that right handers always fail, to bring up)
Couple of points:
1) It's best not to start a copy with the final Stonehenge paper - start with something cheap and tough like manila which can take a lot of erasing. Once you've done your rough copy on the manila, turn it over, cover the back of your drawing area with rough shading, and then put the sheet on top your good paper and draw over the rough drawing, thus transferring it to the good paper.
2) The Bargue book recommends enlarging the plates to 18x24" size. Thiis fellow is working with copies the same size that they appear in the book, which is too small.
Thank you for all the tips you gave in this video. I am wondering why the copies of Bargue you display are so small. They are supposed to be 46 x 60 cm, some have so many details that it is worth respecting their original sizes. Also they are supposed to be copied using charcoal, which is easier when the drawing and the model are bigger.
We have our students do 2 copies in pencil at this smaller size and then 2 more in a larger size in charcoal. This helps the students by starting with an easier medium.
Gracias pero seria bueno tambien sub titulos en español saludos desde Peru
Ques 1. How can one be accurate in measuring the horizontals without a right angle? Just holding up the fishing line and eyeballing a 90-degree angle seems like it could give a false measurement.
Ques 2. What about the Bargue line drawings that are printed above each shaded drawing? Should one start with that? Then tape up the rendered drawing in the same place? Or in copying Bargue drawings does one do both? Something I've never understood about copying Bargue drawings. Thanks.
1- Measurements are meant to be a guide to get you as close as possible. Ultimately, your eye should be trained to be more accurate than any measurement. That's where a good teacher offering daily critiques and corrections helps overcome those constraints of measuring.
2- I typically don't show students the simplified line drawing that goes with the completed Bargue drawing. I want the students to be able to make their own decisions on what they feel are the most essential lines of definition as they develop their copy drawing. I hope this helps.
Would you have perspective issues at such close range?, if the easel was tilted. It seems awkward having it so straight.
It is typically awkward for new students, but they adjust quickly. Also, when trying to train your eye to be accurate, it is best to control every element that you can. Obviously, later on, when your eye is trained, you are far more capable of working in less than ideal situations. This is the way we set up for beginning students. But not everything we do is this constrained.
Shouldn’t sight sizing be done about 6 feet away from the easel?
It depends on the size of the subject you are drawing. But the basic rule is that in order to take the whole of the subject in at once (to see the entire subject tin order o judge overall proportion and continuity) you must be at least three times the height of the subject away from the subject.
Sound is very low... i cant hear a thing.
Sorry, this was recorded directly to an iPhone.
I am a beginner and even i can say some of his points are useless. The bargue drawing course book provides steps to draw the bargue plates. This guy misses some of them.