How to Repoint and Prevent Further Damage to a Fieldstone Foundation | Ask This Old House
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- čas přidán 28. 04. 2019
- Ask This Old House mason Mark McCullough repoints a crumbling fieldstone foundation and shares an important lesson about water management on the outside of the house
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Time: 2-3 hours
Cost: $50
Skill Level: Moderate
Tools List for Repointing a Fieldstone Foundation:
Bucket [amzn.to/2V4bU16]
Masonry brush [amzn.to/2Lf6Liq]
Safety glasses [amzn.to/2Wg9pFF]
Pickax [amzn.to/2vwVvTY]
Cement finishing trowel [amzn.to/2URmG5Q]
Gauging trowel [amzn.to/2UVdQo1]
Brick trowel [amzn.to/2ISYO06]
Paintbrush [amzn.to/2J533Fi]
Shopping List:
Type N mortar [amzn.to/2GUd9Gy]
Bonding agent [amzn.to/2Y0ZOTI]
Steps:
1. Start by identifying the cause of the foundation damage. Go outside to the corresponding location near the damage in the basement. Check to see if there is proper drainage, grading, and a functional gutter system. If water is able to pool anywhere near the area in question, the foundation damage will return.
2. Address any water issues on the outside of the house to prevent additional water from coming in.
3. Dip a masonry brush in a bucket of water and dampen the mortar and stones that are going to be repointed to keep the dust down.
4. Use a pickax or another sharp tool to pull the existing mortar from between the stones. If small stones fall out, set them aside to be put back in place during repointing.
5. Once all the mortar is removed, dip the masonry brush back in the water and clean out all the joints.
6. Using a separate bucket, mix the mortar, water, and the bonding agent.
7. Holding the cement finishing trowel upside down, plop some mortar on its blade. Use a margin trowel to push the mortar off the cement finishing trowel and deep into the joints of the fieldstone foundation. Put the small stones back in where there are really large areas to fill in. Do this until all the joints are filled with mortar and small stones.
8. Using a small, wet paintbrush, smooth over all the joints to expose the aggregate. Check underneath all the stones and makes sure no sagging has happened between the mortar joints and the stones. If that’s happened, use the paintbrush to push the mortar back up against the stones.
Resources:Mark emphasizes that if you suspect water damage in your basement, it’s just as important to identify and eliminate the cause of the water as it is to repoint the basement. He explains that having a good gutter and overall drainage system is essential to preventing further foundation damage to a house. Gutters and downspouts can be found at home centers.
To repoint the fieldstone foundation, Mark used a Type N mortar, manufactured by Quikrete (amzn.to/2GUd9Gy). In general, Type S mortar is used for structural or foundation work, but Mark finds that the Type N works better in this application because it's softer and will accommodate some movement in the foundation. To help the mortar bond better with the stones, Mark also added C-21 All Acrylic cement modifier admix, which is manufactured by Silpro (www.silpro.com/).
The other tools Mark used to repoint the foundation, including the buckets and trowels, can all be found at home centers and masonry supply stores.
Expert assistance with this segment was provided by MJM Masonry.
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Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we're ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers-and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O'Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
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How to Repoint and Prevent Further Damage to a Fieldstone Foundation | Ask This Old House
/ thisoldhouse - Jak na to + styl
This video ended my panic about loose mortar I found in the basement of the house I just bought (my first house, might I add). Like the homeowner, it seemed super intimidating, and now I have an actionable idea of how to fix it. Thank you so much. I'm so glad you put these videos up.
🎉
Just because you have loose mortar and they fixed it in this video....doesn't mean you also have JUST loose mortar. Have someone you trust take a look.
😎
Look up Mike Haduck videos here on CZcams. He's a great mason and has a great attitude about working with masonry. He's fond of saying: "It's no big deal."
Good to see the homeowner take on the steps herself. I see how it's not complicated, but not easy either; how repetition and practice lead to efficiency in the process and a pleasing, secure finished project. Thanks for taking us all along!
I just purchased a home with basically no gutters and a very specific build style called an arched cabin. The roof is composed of two curved arches that join at the center as a point, and the roof runs literally to the ground level. The home sits on a walkout/daylight basement. Water collects and runs off of it directly to the ground and had no gutters on it, except one above a window with no downspout (so water collected there and dumped straight into one place). The result was water pooling at certain points around the house and making its way into the foundation at 3 different points. This lead to mold damage in the basement in those areas and conditions that were suitable for pests. We took the basement down to the studs, did full mold remediation, and have built our own gutter system that runs along the ground where the roof ends. The total cost in materials for the gutter system was less $1K USD and since then, we have seen no water intrusion into the basement. It baffles me that homeowners do not understand drainage.. This is my first home and I am astonished that such positive impact can be made with such a minor investment and some strong will for DIY.
I love this info! I am looking into buying my first home and was worried about old homes and the stone foundations and now i’m starting to like them more than the cinderblock foundations. I currently live in a rental property that has a stone foundation which is a mess.
thanks for sharing this and making it simple and logical, much appreciated.
I thought this was a new video and was so happy to see roger back on the show lol. Miss you big guy!
That homeowner killed it!
🗡️
Thanks for the info d
I enjoyed how the group got together to chat. Bonding...
Great video, thank you! I would not wear jewelry when working with mortar, and I'd also recommend wearing gloves. Cheers
Would lime putty mix be better than N for softness? As long as it was fresh lime when made then aged as a putty under a layer of water? Yes, it would take longer amd be more labor intensive with wet burlap, but would the end result be better and look better too?
Fwiw, my😅 mason used a funnel bag, like an oversized cake decorating squeezable funnel to deliver the mortar. Much quicker than scraping it from a trowel.
That also fills the voids behind the rock you cant get to. im surprised they didnt show that in this video.
Good to know
Agreed
Agree
Tommy isn’t interested in the checkered shirt club
and richard was behind the camera asleep
Haha, yes
And Roger is only an applicant so far so he has to settle for stripes.
Good video !!!
Agreed.
God job mi friend
I can sense this video is going to be helpful for me...
Interesting...
Everybody, check out Mike haduck on CZcams and follow his videos on stone foundation. This guy is absolutely the best. He explains why adding water to Portland cement turns it back into a rock and how to fuse mortar or Portland cement back together again. Basically what I'm saying, is he takes this repair to a deeper level that anyone who has this problem should know about. If you're going to go through all the work to do this work, let's do it in such a way that we never have to do it again
Tommy is in charge of the checkered shirt club
Yeah
What about Norm Abram or Roger Cook !
@7:23 "So that was't so hard"
Betsy : "No not at all"
Me: Looks like a nightmare
2:56 "correlation is everything"
I would dig down bit around those drain pipes and make sure that someone didn't install perforated pipe instead of closed drain pipe. The corrugated stuff looks very similar and is actually supposed to be used in closely associated foundation drains so it's an easy mistake to make if you're not really thinking about it.
Nice advice
Hi there, would you mind explaining a bit more what you mean? Are you saying they shouldn't have a perforated pipe but at 8m50s in the video they recommend one, and say that's what they had already. Are you talking about gutter run-off pipes?
Between the video and what they say, it sounds like they have a perforated pipe, but perhaps the front gutter is leading into it instead of having its own closed pipe running down to the back, in conjunction with the perforated pipe to collect other ground water near the foundation?
@@Stephendenham The pips that collect the gutter run-off should not be perforated.
> …it sounds like they have a perforated pipe, but perhaps the front gutter is leading into it instead of having its own closed pipe…
That was my concern. It's common to use a perforated pipe around the foundation (surrounded by gravel and filter fabric) so that water traveling through the ground is intercepted and can be diverted somewhere else before it can try to make it's way through the foundation. Dumping the downspouts into this perforated pipe just redirects all the roof water right down to the foundation.
If they did it correctly, closed pipes taking all the downspout water away from the house, Jen is suggesting installing a foundation drain (also called French or Curtain drain). It's perforated collecting pipes will run parallel to the gutter drains and gather into a closed pipe that will take the collected ground water away from the house. If they already have perforated pipe, they need to install a closed pipe in parallel and redirect the downspouts into it.
She's a good worker guy
*She* and *guy* = logic
AssGrabber B .
I have a river very close to my property, and almost every 3-5 years, high tide brings the sea water high enough to have the basement flooded. What kind of cement should I be using to repoint the fieldstone foundation?
I have a drum cement mixer but a lot of the time I mix small batches by hand and it is such a pain
During hard rains it was like a spigot in my wall, until I fixed my gutters. I still get a little seepage, but its nothing like it was.
Not great.
Good to know. Heavy rain made basement flood.
do I use Type N mortar for exterior as well? I thought type S to keep the water out, im in upstate ny
Wow, nice upload video. I seen Stone foundations that were much smaller rocks but never anything this large. Those Boulders are beautiful. I would brainstorm on how to artistically bring out the decorative effects. I'm thinking gangster hideouts the 1920s look or a saloon or a wine cellar built into a masonry basement that holds a 60 degree temperature preserving the wine flavor. But since I'm not an expert it's just a comment. Thanks for reading
You could color the mortar with a masonry dye and that could make it more decorative. Or you could add pieces or cut glass or marbles to the mortar and make it pop.
@@AStanton1966
Instead of adding tricky color to concrete just use grout. It already has color options. Ardex o r Bostic brand are the best on the planet
The shopping list link for the type N mortar actually links to the type S (No. 1136). I think the Type N is should be no. 1102, but I honestly don't know about these things. Does it matter?
After doing some research for restoration it is recommended to use a naturally hydraulic lime based mix. Cement based mortar mixes are known to keep water behind thus inside the wall and fail rather quickly. I’m just wondering why they use the cement based mortar mix? Maybe because the damage isn’t too deep? Anyone care to chime in on this?
So are you saying the hydraulic lime based mix allows water to penetrate the wall?
One thing I love about TOH is that you never see the condescending attitude toward women on the show that you see sometimes in the trades. Mark McCullough does a great job assuming that Betsy is a capable human being (which she is of course). I'd hold her up as a role model to any little girl, the same as I would the show regular, Jenn Nawada (www.nawadalandscapedesign.com/), or the show producer, Sarah Chasse (twitter.com/_SarahChasse). Kudos to the producers, there's so much work to do to change societal attitudes, but y'all are doing some of that work. You're on the side of the angels.
Yea that's why we watch these TOH videos - to get our sjw fix 🤮
Agreed.
If you have an old house with fieldstone would you add hydraulic lime to the mortar?
1:24 Weeeeelllyyy.... Weeeeellllyyyy
Hahaha !! 😁😂
I wonder if one could initially “pipe” in the mortar to the cleaned field stones with something resembling the little cones of plastic the bakers use for cake decorating.
Yes, they sell concrete bags specifically for this.
Yes, mortar bags. For some of the real deep spaces, you could use spray "large gap" expanding foam in the long metal nozzle "pro" applicators, filling just the deepest voids. Then tuck point the last few inches as shown above. The key is to NOT allow the rocks large or small to shift any more over time, when digging out mortar from basically rubble, that has been there for many decades.
Would you use the same process and type-n mortar on the exterior to repoint the fieldstone?
Maybe...
I want to try lime putty sand traditional mortar
So what about if you have a stacked blue stone foundation? How would you stop the water from coming with that type of foundation
Sell the house...
I've seen 2 videos from This Old House concerning this type of job, one using Type N mortar and the other using type S. How do you decide which to use? My rock and mortar foundation has a huge hole in it where a large rock fell out at one point and a previous owner got rid of the rock. So I can actually see through the rock wall into an adjacent section of the basement that was added after the original foundation way layed. The new addition was done with red brick, which is turning into dust.
Check out some videos by a mason called Mike Haduck on YT. He has great tips. I'm no mason, but generally, bricks like to flex more. And when they can't flex, they chip or spauld. So I would use type N for bricks. However, any thing for walls or structure, I would use type S. Type S mortar is the same as type N mortar. The only difference being is that they added a little Portland cement for strength. I'm surprised that Mark recommended type N here. I would of used type S.
@@AStanton1966 i agreeed. i watched & subscribed both mike Haduck & this Old House on ty years ago . mike Haduck is very detailed. such great info for a dyi home owner / women/ single mom sending her 3 kids to college.
@@cathyli9993 Get one or more of the kids to learn a trade. I knew plumbers who went to FL every winter for vacation.
@@AStanton1966 @A Stanton1966 thank you very much. I wish I started sooner when they were away younger. My oldest son had 2 heart transplants and a new kidney this march. He is not a good candidate.
My daughter is girl. Not interested at all. My youngest son just graduated got a bachelor's degree in accounting and attending college one more year for his master degree. Without any choice, I have to pickup most small project/ repair myself. we are so blessed and fortunate yet hard work for me. Well, that's life... Live and learn. sorry got carry away from the subject here. Thanks again for your time
@@cathyli9993 I hope things stay good and get better from here on out for you.
Any advice regarding temps? If my field Stone foundation gets cold during winter when I'd possibly be doing this, is there a limit the the cold temps where I should avoid doing this and waiting for warmer weather, so that mortar can harden in the most effective & robust manner?
3 years too late, but mortar sets up completely in about 1 week. As long as it's not freezing cold you should be fine. Spring, Summer, and Fall are fine, just as long as the night temperatures don't reach freezing for the curing time
I'm calling you guys when my wife and I buy our first house. I hope you guys can make it to Knoxville, TN.
👍
I have a question - I am confused by something the landscaper said. Roger said, "get in there and WET THAT FOUNDATION". I thought the objective was to keep water away to keep the foundation dry and to prevent water from going into the foundation so the basement would not get water. NOW Roger's saying "get in there and "wet the foundation" because "Mother Nature hates a void". Do you either keep water away to keep the foundation dry OR are you now saying make sure the foundation gets wet? Can you please explain Roger's statement because this is contradictory to me. Keep water away yet wet the foundation - I'm confused. I'm trying to understand working with the 100 yr old foundation of my house in Chicago and keeping my basement dry. Please help in my understanding of this - Thank you.
What if the hole runs from the outside into the inside from the top and there's a ton of lose mortar? Do you need to replace all the mortar in between or would you still just tuckpoint?
It's not so easy, but it is do-able. Dig away the soil from a 3 or 4 foot section, and wash the rocks with a fine spray hose. Let that dry a few a day or so, then make the similar mortar mix with added portland cement and more water than usual, to make a kind of soupy slurry and pour it into the space. If you'd like, you can add 2" blue foam insulation in front of the washed rocks before pouring the slurry in. Then back fill that section, and move on to the next few feet. Did I mention it's not easy?
Watch some videos by Mike Haduck a mason on YT. He always says, "Be like a dentist." You only remove the lose stuff, then repoint or patch.
What good is it when you plaster it from the inside?
The moisture comes from the outside, so must be sealed from the outside, or not ??
There is no such thing as a sealed masonry foundation. Keep the water away and it will not come in.
Lime mortar breathes better than cement mortar. They never mention this. Spalling will come?
Isn't there a tool to actually inject the mortar deep into the opened-up cracks?
Yeah you can use a grout bag like a pastry bag. Fill it with mortar and pipe it in. Still have to finish with a trowel and brush anyway though.
Hi TOH, that's an old fashioned basement with stone ! 👍😃 🛠
Agreed. 😁
I'm in the process of removing old crumbling mortar from our 1890 Victorian farmhouse stone foundation. I've watched two videos from This Old House and am now confused. One said to use Type S mortar and the other said to use Type N mortar. It's a huge job so I do want to get it right the first time. Any advice out there?
Lime putty is even better per European restoration people
I have same foundation you want lime mortar no Portland cement.Its softer and allows moisture and movement of the stone.Hard cement prevents moments and cracks and in turn break stones it adhered to.Do more research.Both shows on basement repoiting were wrong Tommy and this guy.House that stood over hundred years on simple lime mortar had benefits and in Europe there are hundreds of old stone houses with same mortar still standing,
@@tkjazzer id go with them. They have older stone homes
Rebecca, Ii just purchased a victorian with a fieldstone basement as well. What motor didyou end up using and how did the restoration come along? Any advice that you can give me? Unfortunately I'm getting water intrusion through my mortar joints and I have no idea whether or not I should dig all the way down to the base I suggested by one waterproofing company or if I should simply put in a French drain and an interior drain system. Did you have water intrusion as well in your basement?
@@rubo1964 How bad is it if I re-point mortared one horizontal line on the outside of my stone foundation wall and the top line of stones on my patio with type s mortar? How bad is the risk of cracking stones or other damage? It is old fieldstone. Should I definitely chip it out and remove it? Does the chipping itself risk damaging the wall?
What is the bonding agent you use? I just bought a 100 year old house and need to do this.
Hmmm...
Probably something like Sika Latex R. That's what hours of Googling turned up for me and it's what I have used on portions of my own stone foundation that I have repointed. I'll let you know in 10 years how my work holds up.
@@InsidiatorPhotos hey, how is it holding up so far?
@@ronieridesnh2241 So far, all of the areas I have repointed are holding strong and show no signs of cracking or leaking. I used a Type N mortar mix (I think Sakrete brand, but other companies have similar products) and replaced half of the water called for on the mortar mix packaging with the Sika Latex product. In my case, that worked out to one bag of mortar mix, a half gallon of water and a half gallon of latex.
😎
Need a big cake decorator for that.
🤔
question I have a bathroom that I painted about two years ago. Now I noticed that the paint is bubbling up. What would cause the paint to do that and how can I fix it.
Was the bathroom painted already and you repainted? If so you didn't prep the walls well enough. Trisodium phosphate and water, wipe the walls thoroughly. This degreases and deglosses the existing paint. If it was bare drywall than the walls were not primed prior to painting. And no, paint and primer all in one is not good enough for bare drywall. As to how to fix? Scrape, sand, repaint.
Was reason for painting because previous paint was bubbling?
Also worth considering is the moisture. If you dont have a proper ventilation system in your bathroom and like really hot steamy showers with the door closed then the paint is being bubbled at any point there might be a small scratch or something.
@@calebburns4346 i repainted my kitchen. I used a tea pot to heat water. Steam to close to the 1 cabinet. The paint bubbled from the steam. It actually softened the paint. It fired again but it was definitely the steam. It wasn't right next to it either.
Id get a really good bathroom vent. You can tell if yours is still working or not. An old trick is to take a piece of toilet paper, 1 ply and throw it up towards your fan. If it gets sucked up its working. If it falls to floor try cleaning vent with vacuum first. Throw it up again. If it falls, time for new fan. Get the best one you can afford so you don't get mold. I was told by carpenter, that paint actually takes 30 days to dry. Its dry on top, but under it its still has moisture. It dries from outside in. You dont have to not use it for 30 days but get a good fan
That's a high ceiling for an old place. Unless they're both shorter than average.
Marks only 3 feet tall
Or made roof higher. 😅
Many old homes have very high ceilings in the basement. Some even have fireplaces. They were often used for laundry, and sometimes even as a place of business.
Mark said that the mortar is not structural. Can the joints be sealed with spray foam instead? Maybe even spray foam the whole wall. Instead of tuckpoint?
You can spray foam it, but you don't want crumbling mortar behind the foam. My parents 1800's farmhouse has grindstone foundations that they had foamed.
Fieldstone not grindstone
David Dolch thanks David
Hmmm...
Please don’t spray foam it the fieldstone is beautiful, keep it that way
I'd be kind of nervous digging out that much mortar around those giant stones.
I'm sure some of those stone go back many feet.
Why? The stones were dry-stacked, to begin with - there was no mortar.
She didn't even shake his hand im schocked !!
I can almost guarantee your not supposed to add the bonding agent directly to the mortar. I always always brush and/or roll it on then apply when I’m doing stucco. It’s a little extra time but I haven’t had any problems yet.
You can absolutely add bonding agent directly to mortar and concrete mix. Of course you want to brush some on the surface as well.
You need to dig down from outside first and repair the wall then divert the water with a footing drain and pitch the terrain from outside away from the home and then you can fix the foundation inside.
Good advice.
I’ve read and seen several that say to never do that on the outside. Stone foundation as old as hers are built from the inside going up and if you start digging you can loosen the stone and cause it to collapse. It’s recommended if you have a lot of water then dig inside along the bottom edge and put in a drainage with sub pump.
If you don't wet it, it won't stick
Why does everybody add the bonding agent afterward? Just pout it into the water before you begin mixing, it literally could not be easier than that. Also this guy seems to consistently give amateur advice. Trowel it in? Okay, maybe for shallow joints, but for deep joints you need to use a brick trowel and toss it in so it gets all the way back inside instead of creating voids. Or put on waterproof gloves and push handfuls of the mortar in, to be honest sometimes that's the best way, and the fastest, to get it in there and shape it by hand. For shallow joints mix it up wetter and use a mortar bag.
Hmmm...
I know for mixing epoxy at least that adding fillers or colorants to the mixture before thoroughly mixing the resin and hardener can interfere with the chemical reaction. Maybe this is a similar situation.
@@Roctrin This stuff is basically glue and can be painted on, used instead of water, or added to water, made into a slurry, you name it. If I'm using it as an admix I pour it into the water and then mix into the mortar. Couldn't be easier. Been doing it that way for decades with no issues whatsoever. Mixing twice wastes time and may even make it less effective if it isn't mixed thoroughly, which is a non-issue when mixed in water beforehand.
If it have a real issue, i put the bonding agent on the mating surface as well. In this case, the rocks.
How do you make a bonding agent
Is the homeowner actually getting in the way more often than helping?
The scenes are staged where the homeowner is only doing what is shown in the camerawork, and in between it's actually the show's paid laborers that do the bulk of the job in between the beginning and ending shots.
2014-08-07 czcams.com/video/jgU245CbALc/video.html type S
2019-04-29 czcams.com/video/nlxxf-4vWKg/video.html type N
I saw that myself. I'm a fan of Tommy, so I'll go with Type S
I thought you were supposed to use a lime based mortar on a stone foundation, or at least soft stone like sandstone or limestone. Otherwise it will break the stones over time and ruin the foundation.
You ain't going to break those stones with anything but a jack hammer.
@Bladecraft A lot depends on where to live and is it on the inside or outside. You may want to put some raised grooves using portland cement first or use Tapco mason screws on the joints using wall ties. Search This Old House Videos: Roger added a veneer to a guy's outside wall with the grooves and it came out nice. Also there's a mason on YT named Mike Haduck. He's amazing: do a search with his name and the type of work/question you have in mind, such as bonding agent or stone veneer. Once you decide on the base, I would use at least a type-S mortar to bond the veneer to blocks. You can buy it by the bag, pre-mixed.
@@AStanton1966 guess again.
Depends who you ask, but yes, lime based (softer) for soft foundation stone like sandstone or brick. If your foundation walls are typical New England "fieldstone" they are most likely granite rocks, and you could use type S mortar mixed with added sand and portland cement. The resulting combo would thus be no different than concrete (portland, sand and granite aggregate) and be plenty strong into the distant future. After tuck pointing, finish with a white waterproof cement finsh coat (interior) like BASF MasterSeal (from Lowe's).
My house is so old that the stone foundation was put together with, seemingly, mud not mortar.
I have the same situation. What do I do?
Watch mr chickadee on CZcams. He uses mud mortar with lime on cellars
These guys literally have a dream job. I wonder how much they get paid
This clip says use Type N mortar, similar video with Tomy he says use Type S. OPINIONS !?
If I recall, Tommy was working up high on the wall, with smaller stones. Perhaps that would be more appropriate since Type S is recommended for today's block and brick foundations (smaller units), whereas Mark was assessing a much large stone foundation that did not initially rely on mortar of any type for structural support. And I also know that Mike Haduck will use Type S with added Portland cement, though much of his work is a bit different than what we're referencing. Personally, I find Type N more attractive because of the higher lime content and flexibility. Yes, Type N states on the bag that it is not to be used below grade for foundations, but I believe that means cinder block/brick, not stones that initially did not need mortar for compression strength. Stones do not require the compression factor that block/brick require and hence slaked lime mortar was sufficient when initially laid over a hundred years ago. Honestly I've been using Type N to rehab my small-stone foundation and I enjoy the plasticity of it, and yes, stone foundations are not waterproof so do not judge your work by any water spots. And honestly, the for the next section of wall, I am going to use NHL lime mortar to have more references on its properties. As always there are numerous considerations in assessing any project, just do not assume stronger in one aspect dominates your decision; that is, would you prefer a running bond brick pattern house with interlocks every tenth row that is using Type S mortar, or an English/Flemish/or Dutch bond pattern that is using Type N? Hope this helps a bit.... Cheers
Mark: This mortar is a Type N
Me: ?
Mark: It's a little less strong than a Type S
Me: Oh
Wish they mentioned lime putty
Tommy probably don't wants to be part of the club.
No need to use a hydraulic cement here? I get you're going to drain the water away as much as possible.
striker851 hydraulic cement is not water proof
It depends on what the foundation is made up of be it stone or masonry, exterior or interior use, above or below grade and if freezing temperatures are expected.
Did someone draw Satan's face on the field stone?
Me. 😁
Holy shite! No eye protection? No gloves?? FYI mortar and corneas don't mix and how's you ground beef hands at the end of this??
Amerikanische Keller sind wie Höhlen.
Wir leben noch in das Wild West.
😋
they should wear [breathing] masks
First
Second!
Where is the mask to keep the dust out of your lungs
Gone. 😂
N95 mask
Why is there a lady there