The TRANSOM is FINISHED! - The NEW Fibreglass Boat Restoration Project - Part 6
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- čas přidán 4. 08. 2024
- FINALLY! After what seemed like weeks, the transom is in, glassed up, and the knees (supports) are attached. In the video we also drop in the stringer and start the glassing process!
CONTACT ME :
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IG: / matthewpkelly
Email: mattkellyfishing@gmail.com
Nice job. A good way to make fillet base work move faster is take a heavy ziplock bag and cut off a corner to use it like a pastry bag for thickened resin. Then take a plastic spoon and smooth it to a perfect rounded edge ready for glass.
Dont sell yourself short Matt. I am really enjoying your videos and they are very helpful. Without people like you, Boatworks today and Dagnar Marine I would be totally lost. Doing my first boat and learning so much I already know it will not be my last.
If this boat breaks up in the water, the motor and the transom will just carry on together over the horizon! 😂😂😂 So glad you changed the music mate! 😂👍🏻👊🏻
Absolutely awesome work Matt, work to be proud of for sure.
Nice video… only thing I'd do differently is put an air vent at the front of the boat floor area cavity to allow air from the front to the drain plug when the boat is not in use to allow floor cavity to aerate when not in use example PVC pipe with lockup cap. Boat will always hold moisture in the floor cavity.
Solid job mate looking really good
Great work as usual Matt!
nice work man. Progress is looking great.
Love your work mate, always an informative helpful vid! Inspired me to start my own project.
Awesome Matt! I'm currently working on my first fiberglass project boat on the sunny coast
Looking good mate! Got a project on the go here in NZ, 5m fibreglass cabin boat which I took on after watching your first vid! Keep it up 👍👍
Just about to renovate my transom, I like your straightforward honesty and no bullshit, really handy video's , cheers !!
Only thing I'd do differently is, When We build fishing boats we use 2, 2x4s (or 2x6 if deck is high) for stringer and just 1 layer of 1.5oz cloth and 1 layer of 1708 cloth over the top. Normally just just 14"x38" strips of cloth and cover the 2x4s strip my strip. But you did a perfect job for a none comercial boat
excited for more vids in oregon, usa! i have a 65 dollar fiberglass boat im restoring
Awesome work mate! Im currently glassing in some gussets from my transom to floor, what thickness of CSM did you use and how many layers did you use on yours?
Cheers mate awesome work 👍
You should have used 2 layers of 1708 uni directional Matt on each side of the transom and using epoxy western system it will be stronger in the long run and you will be able to hang a 200hp motor without it even crackling but if its a jam job good luck to all that sails on her
Hi welldone .... 1 question pls between the layers of sheet did you let it dry?
What kind of rollers are you using for the resin?
Hope your sanding between coats of resin because you might have a de lamination problems because polyester resin has a wax in it or else it will not cure that's why if you let it dry completely you have to sand if it is still tacky you can keep going and do the whole job
He would be using laminating polyester un waxed
not all polyester resin has wax, laminating resin NEVER has wax in it and is only added to sand it.
@@cruiser355efi This Canadian agrees with you
@@Beachnative42 I Agree
This type of repair should be done off the trailer. Boats do not sit perfectly on trailers.
They are always a small bit off. It’s better to put a block under the stern on each side and under the keel in the front. The three points helps the hull sit true. You may need straps on the gunnels to hold them true.
After putting the hull on the three blocks. Look and check it. Measure each side from the hull to the floor at the same location to check and see if it’s true. Then make the stringers and glass them. Your hull will be true and it will drive straight!
I build 18 foot - 32 foot comercial crab boats for a living in the Pacific north west and that my friend is a beefy setup. We do 1.5oz cloth plywood 1.5oz plywood then 1 layer of 1705 the. Hit the seem with an 8" strip then we have guy with 300hp outboard bolted to them . Some with brackets and some just slapped on the wood and glass. You did an overkill bad ass job in my opinion
how many have sunk?
@@Beachnative42 iv only done about 30 transoms , but iv never had a boat sink that I built. Checkout my Instagram. "Goonsquad280z" there are some boats iv done on there
@@Allthewayfromtherez sorry about my smartass comment and I'd like to see more but Im not on instagram. All the best
@@Beachnative42 I get it. I say some dumb shit sometimes too on hear. Sometimes you can't help it when you see someone's response. My CZcams channel has 1 video of a boat mid build but it's about my knockoff wide body kit I was working on.
Can I get you to do my boat next ? 😳
broo I'm doing the transom of a chekmate starflite 21', could you tell me how many layers I had to put in two 3/4 panels? I mean from the sanwish and at the end, im going to use shop and 1708
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Hi Matt I am doing a boat resto In brisbane could you help me. You can turn it into a video. It is a 17ft half cabin that has excellent resto capability this is my first time ever doing one.
Looking pretty dry and lots of air between layers. Need to be a little more onto it with your compression rolling!
Hows drainage work with that stringer?
I guess you and I are the only ones to question that.
I'm slightly worried about water getting trapped, not being able to flow to the back and out a drain.
Tim Lewis intention is that the under the floor will be fully water tight (there won’t even be a bung under the floor), there won’t be any places for water to get in there unless the hull itself is opened up from underneath (in which case we’ve got much bigger problems).
@@MattKellyFishing condensation will still form under the floor and little by little collect over time. I've first hand experienced water tight spaces get water collected in them.
@@timlewis840 You've made a really good point that to be totally honest, I haven't been able to stop thinking about it.... I think I'll take your advice, drill out the supports for water to flow, and add a bung under the floor... I really didn't want to go down this path (was hoping to keep it water tight), but it sounds like this is the best option.
@@MattKellyFishing I think that's the best idea. Ideally you seal it up well, maybe fill it with foam, but water will eventually collect in there, and it will need to be drained or it will deteriorate the boat, albeit slowly.
Oh sorry, I see later in the video you did use the bag trick. My bad.
At 14min, I'm trying to work out what Matt is watching on his phone.
mini696 hahaha that’s a Dangar Marine video. I’m not sure which one specifically - this was filmed in early July.
@@MattKellyFishing Nice, I'm always interested in other channels guys like you and Stu watch.
Why does every sentence you say end with a question mark?
weird you could see the question marks as I spoke
ONLY $150 to purchase this project boat and ONLY ANOTHER $5,000 making repairs to restore 😳 - just joking - time consuming for sure - but should be a good boat again when you are finished.👍😊✌️
Dude , your transom is too thin & weak , you should had double the plywood .
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