What IS Selvedge Denim?! The Complete Guide: Is It Better, Do You Wash It, and The Raw Denim Culture
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- čas přidán 16. 06. 2024
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★ Full article: stridewise.com/what-is-selved...
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After 4 years of videos about selvedge denim I thought it was past time to explain what the heck it actually is! Why do people care about selvedge denim so much? Why is it more expensive? Are you not meant to wash it? Do I care about sanforization? There's no better man to ask than Bahzad Trinos, the second in command at Naked & Famous Denim. We sat him down at their New York store to learn all about the ins and outs of the best denim in the world.
00:00 We're at Naked & Famous!
00:32 What is selvedge denim?
02:05 Shuttle loom vs projectile loom
02:53 How is selvedge denim different to normal jeans?
04:35 Why denimheads love slub, nep, and heavyweight
07:09 Raw vs Selvedge denim
08:04 Raw vs sanforized denim?
09:20 Does selvedge denim fade better?
10:35 Should you wash raw denim?
11:51 Wrapping up
#rawdenim #selvedge #selvedgedenim #nakedandfamous - Jak na to + styl
Its funny because most of my dad's life he worked at cone mills in nc making denim until they shut down Never would he believe that People want that product so badly. I myself worked in the industry on airjet looms for a decade
That's so awesome your dad worked there. He probably had a hand in some of my pieces. I chose to start my raw/selvedge denim journey with Brave Star Selvage because I saw they offered Cone Mills at an affordable price.
@@batmanbear how do you like them? The handshake denim! :)
Bazhad is an amazing advocate for his industry. I appreciate how he doesn't spend the entire video pumping up the brand he works for, but instead gives a lot of respect to denim in general while telling us a lot of useful information.
My favorite thing about this guy is he is not putting down his corporate competitors, he is just honest about the differences. That is true character and has my business for that
Because naked and famous don’t need to do that. Their main appeal is their cool innovations with fabric and designs. Whereas every other selvedge denim brand you get basically the same look (most of them just have like three styles, for only men too) so in order to sell you have to BS a bit about why your jeans are different from every other pair of jeans that look virtually exactly like yours.
Great to see Bahzad back, love this no nonsense dude. Just subscribed to the N&F channel and looking forward to catching their posts,
Bahzad is truly the GOAT. What a king.
Super informative, thanks Nick and Bahzad!
Bahzad might be the coolest person you've interviewed. I've enjoyed this whole series with N&F
Love Bazhad's no nonsense attitude.
First! Naked and famous is an awesome store. Friendly people and very eager to assist. Stridewise you did it again 👍
Worked a lot on this one, thanks man!
This was super informative and I love how he dispels a lot of myths.
Then you'll love this other video we did on myths! czcams.com/video/oRbQ_F8C_O0/video.html
So much to love about this!
Great information! We just filmed a piece about cutting and producing selvedge denim. If you're buying raw Japanese denim, and it's sewn well, the lifespan of your denim is much longer than the over-processed jeans in the market. And...the look of raw is way cooler in our opinion!
Probably the best introductory overview video that I've seen. Really a great resource! :)
Wow, thanks! Pretty silly it took me so long to get here haha
@MrStreetninja007 - great post. my dad was a chemical engineer at Cone and bless his heart he got me my summer job at White Oak assisting the mechanics who fixed the looms. to think there were once thousands of looms (you could barely see the other end of the White Oak weave room) going full tilt around the clock. even this unsophisticated teenager could tell we were cranking out some great stuff!
I have raw only denim, selvedge denim and mall denim......and i enjoying their different fades.....
Another great video Nick. You've become the Barbara Walters of the men's niche style market.
Hahah what a meaningful comment thanks JD!
I live for the weekly live stream. Love Bahzad collab a
Love your content. I washed my raw denim after 7 months (and after watching one of your content) of everyday use, and the fade just pop up. 🎉
Appreciate that Gabriel! Did you put bleach in the wash?
@@Stridewise Hi Nick! No, I don't use bleach when washing denim. It's an "abomination." 😁 I just used an ordinary detergent for it.
Great video
I love my fire bird jeans so much... All most a year old and still look amazing
So I just ordered my first 2 pairs of expensive jeans. One Naked and Famous, Black x Grey stretch Selvedge “Weird Guy”, and one Shockoe Standard stretch selvedge. Wish me luck…
Very good video. There is a huge lack of concise info getting to the point on what the deal is with selvedge. Thank you for this and I look forward to more great content.
It's funny how quickly you can go off the rails when the only definition is "made on a shuttle loom" !
I recently bought some selvedge Jacob Cohen jeans. They are expensive as f…. But also high quality and beautifully handmade in Europe.
I bought the 1970s wrangler bluebell flares and the denim was dark and stiff and i wore them in a hot bath as hot as i could and these original bluebells were very rugged indeed and even better than the levis orange or red label but were zip fly. I lived in them, just from 17, 18 then i bleached them and ended up having them worn for over 3 years and they were by far the toughest jeans ive ever had. The 501s were £20 discbount out of millets in London or Dickie Dirts which was cheaper than levi store or millets which did jeans, tartan and denim shirts, T shirts, socks, denim jackets, camping gear and it was a chain store for that stuff havimg branches all over the country. Dickie Dirts were selling 501 levis, shrink to fit the dye was dark and they were stiff as a board new but youd change the bath water for your proper bath, hang up the jeans on the line. £20 was the price of red tab 501 shrink to fit and they were better denim but not a patch on the great weave on the wrangler bluebell flares but after the 90s they got far less durable and i noticed the levi and wranglers didnt have the same weave as old blue bell flares that were a sort of diagonal weave i believe that was brilliant. The customers pay for split threadbare jeans round the knees now and i couldve given them the real authentic levis especially orange label ordinary straight jeans and even the ass would wear through. Using them on the motorbike and working in them and even sleepin in them and getting them dirty with oil especially from my BSA 650 twin from the 1950s which was known for oil leaks. Youd worry when they seemed oil tight as it would mean the engine oil level was below the minimum level.. 😢 And could go bang. The old rockers who rode tritons which were triumph pre unit T110 650cc twin cylinder engines with the seperate gearbox where the engine drive gear was joined to the gearbox with a primary chain. The clutch would be attached to the gearbox and then to the back wheel. The 60s had the mods v rockers at Brighton like on the WHO Quadrophenia double album, film too based on those days. There was the Ace cafe then the chopper and bobber custom bike craze and the Harley Davidson craze from Easyrider the cult film and of course biker fashion then many also wore denim for work, leisure. They were great times and nowadays its all a copy of nostalgia with it all becoming accepted, fashion statement but the original quality isnt there like before and jeans are mass produced cashing in on retro craze for cars, Elvis, Rockerbilly, even Bob Marley with his cool look of denim flares and its all become dreadlocks. Not original workwear like pre ww2 up to the late 60s. Retro this and that like harley copying their early 1957 to 1970 sportster styles and colours and triumph bringing out a re😊d😊one retro bonneville that is totally different to even the meriden bonnys of the 1970s with joe Lucas prince of darkness electrics and the typical oil leaks. Anyway like everything the companies milk it for all its worth retro rip off fashion at double the price it should be. 😂. Try as i may can i find the tough wranglers anymore?. No chance. Maybe online in a special workwear wrangler jean shop doing lee, levis and cowboy originals like Texas. The 13.75oz denim is the nearest ive seen to the originals but try getting those authentic tough rodeo type tough jeans real workin class americans would wear at a rodeo lassooing bulls or ridong mustangs bareback😮
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I love my pair of naked and famous jeans but i dont like the leg opening being to tight so I've been eyeing a pair of onis for my second pair
5:44? What’s the shoe brand. Military style house shoe… love it.
things i didn't know before this video: 1. raw and selvedge are not opposites. you literally asked the question the way i would have asked it.
2. selvedge, as far as we know, can't be made without a shuttle loom. so in other words, if your jeans are selvedge, you can assume they were made on/ with a shuttle loom.
Please review windbreaker
Got a pair of naked and famous jeans in the easy guy fit. Best fitting pair of jeans i have ever bought. I'm now sold to this brand and will never buy another brand.
I like my Uniqlo selvedge jeans, but in North British climate they take more time to dry on the line.
The watch analogy was a perfect way to explain the importance of selvedge denim. Rolex vs digital. Mass production vs careful craftsmanship. You can also use photography vs paintings. There’s greatness in both fields, but one is more revered than the other.
Or digital versus film photography, and streamed music versus what comes out of vinyl. Thanks.
@@htolas nice! I’m a DJ and sadly I’ve been neglecting my vinyl! 😫
Casio > Rolex.
@@allbunsglazing you get your style from Walmart then? Good for you 👍🏽
In the good old days you had to wash denim before wearing to break down the fibers slightly so they could be worn. From the store, a good pair of jeans could be fluffed up and stood in the corner. They don't make jeans like that anymore.
Now denim jeans are close to a heavy twill version of chambray. I could make a sturdy shirt out of the fabric, but as jeans they have a short but very soft and comfy lifespan.
I'd rather have to earn the comfort but wear them a lot longer.
Dude you should definitely do a collab with matt from cee are dee. I would love a conversations between two of you about denim
If I ever get to... Germany, he's in? Right?
@@Stridewise i don't really know nick, maybe you can ask him. He might be busy.
@@Stridewise Yes, he lives in Berlin.
It’s always frustrating to me that jeans you buy in most high street shops are already half worn out, just for fast fashion reasons. My solution is to get black jeans as they don’t tend to have so much pre-fade. Raw denim would be great, but it does tend to make everything that comes into contact with it get odd blue patches (which I guess on some objects some people like, but I prefer my shoes and bags to mostly stay their proper colour).
That's interesting, I've heard that but I've just never had blue transfer myself, except on my boots a bit. I'd honestly just suggest a hot wash before wearing if it's a concern
Soak it first before wear
@@Stridewise definitively happens on leather and sometimes white tshirts
That's real, even my hands were constantly stained blue for the first six months of wearing my PBJs. I gave them a long soak when I first got them (cold because they already fit) and maybe it helped but not enough. Gorgeous fade though.
Naked and famous actually doesn’t bleed as much as many other jeans. My rag and bone bled like crazy whereas I haven’t observed that so much with naked and famous. I do wash the jeans separately using gentle/delicate or casual cycle, use wool wash dark detergent and turn inside out, haven’t had issues and their color fasting is really quite good (I don’t actually want to fade my jeans). The only pair of naked and famous jeans that really do have color coming off a bit is their crimson sky because of the overdye, but it’s meant to come off over time to reveal more of the red underneath. So that’s really the only pair that is doing that obviously.
Naked and famous logo is hilarious. It looks like a blow up doll out of a sex shop
I was wondering all of these things. I kinda think I accidentally bought some Self Edge from Marshall’s/Burlington. Never again.
What i want to know is, do raw demin stretch the a larger size than tag size like its sanfordize counterpart?🤔
Yeah it'll stretch about the same, it's really whether or not it's sanforized that makes the big difference in sizing
Back in the old days when I was in the Navy, our new dungarees came in raw denim. We'd tie them to a line and drag them behind the ship to knock some of the blue out of them. Once I got called for a line handling party and all I had out of the laundry was new dungarees. After dragging all those wet mooring lines aboard, I took off my pants and found my thighs were dyed blue.
Rumour has it, that's actually why the ocean is blue.
@@allbunsglazing There is truth to that, but a little different. We would regularly tie our new dungarees on a rope and drag them behind the ship while underway to beat out some of the blue and begin the fading we all wanted. So many of us did this, that it surely changed the ocean color.😂
hey Nick do you know if there's a second hand market to buy selvedge that has been faded and worn by people?
good question, your best bet is the weekly sell threads on r/rawdenim and on Grailed.com.
@@Stridewise thanks mate
I don’t think that it was because they didn’t have the technology to make heavy weight denim but that there wasn’t a market for those jeans back then.
Just like a pair of hand-crafted cowboy boots.
Sarhar, Nyc
There it is
It's funny, I have two pairs of Made in China 501's from maybe 6 or 7 years ago. Bought them both at the exact same time from the exact same table at the store. One pair is projectile loom and the other is selvedge. My theory is that when manufacturing in China, if the contractor is trying to make their quota based on Levi's orders then they'll simply break out the "old looms" to fill the demand if the projectile looms are running at full capacity. And in terms of the "quality" of the two...they're exactly the same. They aren't "special" denim. Just regular factory made Levis.
I've also got a pair of Full Counts, Burgus Plus 955's, 2 pairs of Japan Blue, and an Oni 16oz type 3 jacket. I got into it because I personally like the idea of supporting "slow fashion". Trying to cut down on purchasing sweatshop clothing whenever possible. I like the feel of the raw denim and all the stuff mentioned in the video. It's cool. But I'm glad they are talking about the whole "selvedge" thing.
While the selvedge does look cool and is an interesting result of the manufacturing process, it's not really an important thing for me. If they made these types of jeans on projectile looms they'd still be really cool too. I get why people want to "show off" the selvedge by putting cuffs on the jeans but for me personally I made sure all of them were hemmed normally. No cuff. I don't want to show of the selvedge. I know, and that's good enough for me. Plus, the way so many in the denim world seem to have misused the word to = "better quality" is kind of irritating for someone who thinks language matters. It's good that you've tried to point that out in this video.
Except when your jeans break after three wears ( like around the house wearing) and they won’t help you get them repaired
yeah some brands so lifetime repairs (Shockoe) and some don't, but your neighborhood place can help
@@Stridewise 3 wears speaks to a defect in the product.. yet they didn’t help..
Man, the way you pronounced “persimmon” really threw me for a loop
Hope my accent doesn't get me demonetized
@@Stridewise😂😂😂😂😂 also great video I guess, thanks for the information or whatever.
@@Bayou987 Thanks for watching or whatever!
I just wear denim but it must be soft and stretchy.Anything out of that will never touch my legs😂😂
Back in sor hor
I love how I get *multiple* comments like this on all my soer hore videos
First!
Ah dammit someone beat me
You're first in my heart, Alex
@@Stridewise lol
Levi’s 511
❤❤❤❤
Bahzad and Brandon are the fred and george of the denim industry mixed with a seth rogen james franco movie indie film from 2007-2012 is the vibe of naked and famous. I cannot tell you of my disappointment when I learned that Bahzad and Brandon are not brothers, they look so similar just brandon is clean while bahzad is the hobo hippy Brandon
I sent this comment directly to Bahzad, who found it very funny!
Selvedge denim takes wearing for so long to look cool, I’m not sure I’m getting in this trend. Two pairs and donde
Valor can't be rushed
No!
Soar hoar
pants kinda piss me off
Okay, I admit it, I'm strange. I am not wearing a pair of jeans with a woman's boob on the tag; not happening. Men's jeans are masculine; put a man's ass on the tag. What are they promoting? Bras or jeans? I see that appealing to some, just not me. I also like my dark blue jeans, well, dark blue and I don't wash them much to keep them that way. To dye something, only to wash the dye out is not logical. I like character over time, like years, but not overnight. I'm not washing them 50 times for the heck of it.
I do enjoy picking up a pair of used jeans at the thrift store when I can find them. I like the character someone else gave them, rather than that of a manufacturer. Some of the styles (not saying yours) just got ridiculous in distressing them, so those done with less purpose by their owners are always better looking, and some on the quite hot side.
Aside from guys wearing these too short, they look pretty good. Some are so short they look like they are advertising socks. Too bad about that stupid tag; I can't get passed it. Great info on the fabric, thanks for the video!
You could just put tape over it
The two brands to look for are Iron Heart and Samurai . I have both and can say the quality is 100%. Very cool lovely fading jeans .
I see I need to find someone who gained a few and want to let go of those Iron Heart 21 oz Selvedge Denim Super Slim Tapered Jeans I saw ($345). Great look! Also like the look of the Samurai Mid-Rise Slim Str8 ($395). I have a 31" waist, so the slimmer ones just look better. Since none of those are ever happening on my budget, I really like my 501s and 314s! @@luckyducky7166
You can actually customize the patch with a naked man’s image or no image just the naked and famous words on it.
That's deal making information, in fact it's critical in my opinion. I really appreciate you telling me that. I'm a rider and there are some awesome riding jeans in heavier weight than you'd find on the rack somewhere. I have Alpinestars, but there are much better ones that are really heavy (15+ oz), but very comfortable as well; they have to be to ride in.
While mine have Kevlar in some places, not all of them do and they are relatively reasonably priced and fashionable as well. You used to could spot a riding jean (more because of armor), but not anymore; they look like any others, just a bit more indestructible. That goes for the ones not made with or for armor, just more dense fabric for skid protection (not that it would help much).
I think they are less expensive simply because of the niche they are in and aren't as well known. From what I've seen and my experience, they are comparable in quality, typically heavier (really tight weave) and just cost a little less because of their audience. I'd like to give yours a second look and see where they might be sold. Thank you for your response.@@luceafarul579
Careful though guys if you can’t afford selvage then you’re automatically a hater 😂
please continue commenting variations of this under all my videos Jon
@@Stridewise well only because you asked 😉
Jon has nothing better to do with his time. This loser doesn't even let himself get tagged in comments lol coward
who doesnt wash their clothes nasty work
No decent selvedge jeans for fat men. 😕
Naked and Famous's Easy Guy is good, I think! True Guy too if you don't want a taper
too much gimmick on selvedge denim.nothing special it just a pants
They are mostly known for the weaves and different colors more so than the “gimmicks.” The broken twill and different weft dyes are very special actually. Think a leather jacket one is completely flat one color the other is distressed color emphasizing on natural variation of leather. I don’t think anyone will say having that distressed color is a “gimmick.”
@@luceafarul579 lot of narketing gimmicks on that pants.everything including you mom blankets will evetually fades when it come woth times.do more research on the manufacturing process and you will find the answer.you even know how much the manufacturing cost for a pair of raw denim?
so its just a shittyer process
lol
why buy a horse cart when a car is cheaper?
So your paying more for an inferior product.
What do you mean? Their jeans are very good quality for the price. Considered cheap actually in the premium raw denim market. Most premium raw denim jeans using Japanese selvedge denim go from 300 - 500 dollars.
@@luceafarul579 nah men you being hired by the markerter to promote an overpriced pair of jeans that no one care about?only all those denim weeb on reddit that being subjected to the marketers target are willing to py such price.what a dumb.
Obviously handmade but overhyped . No one in a dimly lit bar will give a toss and won’t be looking at your hemlines . You won’t notice across the road . If your a fat blob you’ll still be one. Plus they bleed and people say how unique the fade . That’s BS. But also applies to US brands. Have you ever seen a nice looking pair of faded Rock Revival . Look like rags from 50 yards.
I was wearing their elephant 11 and immediately someone was asking me where I got my jeans.