Repair and Replace your Tesla Model S door handle
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- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
- Broken Door Handle on your Tesla? The usual cause comes from two problems typically, either the gear that pushes the handle out, or the wiring to the microswitches fails. We at www.ReelDealEV.com have both!
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www.reeldealev.com/shop/p/tes... - Jak na to + styl
First off, thank you Chad for this video as it gave me the courage to try to do this myself. BUT A FEW KEY LESSONS LEARNED TO OTHERS WHO MIGHT TRY THIS, BELOW.
2015 Model S 70. Rear handle not presenting; years ago I watched the Tesla service ranger fix the same problem on my driver door handle and remembered that the crummy pot metal paddle gear had broken off at the hole section. Fast forward to now (October 2023)-- I could hear the motor whirring inside the rear door so was pretty sure it was a broken paddle gear (not the wiring). I initially sent in a service request on the Tesla app and they quoted me $500 to come and fix it in about a week's time (earlier available appointment).
I did some CZcams research, found this video and seemed feasible to DIY so I ordered a replacement paddle gear (stainless steel which should be much stronger than original part) from Amazon for $15 which arrived the next day. Note that I consider myself pretty handy (woodworking, some construction skills, minor electrical work) for everyone's frame of reference.
FIRST LESSON: Removing the interior door panel is a major headache!! In Chad's video he pops it off in 2 seconds (to be fair he mentions that he's removed previously so that's why it is so easy). I tugged, pulled, wedged, etc. for what seemed like an eternity (probably 30-40 minutes) and was a sweaty mess... I was about ready to throw in the towel and just have Tesla come and fix it but seemed crazy to pay $500 to fix something that could be fixed with a $15 part. RECOMMENDATION: if this is the first time this interior door panel is being removed, gird yourself. I would place thick duct tape along the edge to protect the paint finish and I ended up using a bunch of chisels to wedge them between the metal door frame and plastic paneling and pry them upwards. Finally I heard one of the white plastic anchors pop off so that gave me hope and I kept wedging along different spots along the side and bottom of the panel and eventually was able to pop it off like Chad shows in the video. I don't know how one would be able to do it without some amount of damage to the white plastic anchors-- I saw some shards of white plastic as I'm sure they turn brittle over the years and they get damaged when forcing the panel off (silver lining-- that does make them much easier to put back on and off again in future).
SECOND LESSON: It was mentioned in a few other comments as Chad's video kind of glosses over it quickly but when trying to remove the door handle mechanism, the fourth 'hidden' nut is seemingly impossible to access! This was the second time I was about ready to throw in the towel. I was able to get 3 of the 4 nuts off using my standard ratchet set (with extender for the more visible nuts) but I could not figure out how to get to the top middle 'hidden' nut. I could see it taunting me through one of the metal door frame holes through the glass (I had the window in up position). I felt like I hit a dead end so ended up driving to my local Tesla service center (fortunately only 20 mins away) and a nice technician there explained to me that to access that last nut they recommend putting the window in the highest 'up' position by fooling the car and activating the door latch (the one at the 'strike' side of door) so that the window rises up that extra inch or so. VERY IMPORTANT: IF YOU DO THIS BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CLOSE THE DOOR AS THE GLASS CAN SHATTER AS IT WILL HIT THE UPPER CAR FRAME. After the glass rises up you have much better access to the hidden nut. The Tesla technician showed me the mini ratchet he uses to get to that nut.
As a result I would HIGHLY recommend getting something like a mini ratchet set with a 10mm socket. I went to Home Depot on the way home and bought a "Husky 1/4 in. Drive Flex-Head Microdriver and Socket Set (16-Piece)" for $22. After I got back home and raised the glass to the highest 'up' position, I was able to get to the hidden nut. It helps that this ratchet has a swiveling joint to help angle it into that tight space.
THIRD LESSON: Now that the nuts were removed I was flying high. The power cable to the door handle mechanism was still zip-tied to the body so in order to unplug it (Chad's video shows it dangling as it has been detached already) I had to cut a couple of zip-ties to access the 'plug' that you disconnect. Be careful when you snip the zip-ties to avoid cutting any wires... but here was the next hurdle... getting the door handle mechanism out through that small opening in door frame is like a crazy 3D puzzle... took me a while to spin it, move it, try lots of different positions before it finally came out.
The door handle mechanism finally came out and the video is pretty spot on... the spindle in my car was not as easy to slide back and forth as in the video but I ended up using a hammer and a nail set (tapping lightly) to push it far enough to the right to be able to install the new s.s. paddle gear.
LAST LESSON: After testing the new paddle by reconnecting the power wire to door handle, one thing to note when putting everything back together. The power wire that is now unbound because you had to snip the zip-ties to get access to it is now flopping inside the cavity. It looks like there is a chance that the window could get caught on it as it goes up/down so I would recommend attaching the loose wiring to the door body so it is snug. I ended up using some foil-faced tape I had handy.
But finally after about 5 hours all told I got it working. Thanks Chad for the video!
PS: Closing note: I had cancelled my original Tesla service call (the $500 estimate) but when I hit the 2nd hurdle above I made another service appointment on the app as a back-up plan. That quote came in around $320 for the same repair... I know these are just estimates and the service technician will update it once they assess the actual repair but if they had sent me that quote to begin with I might have not gone the DIY route... but at that point I was already neck deep so pushed through and did it myself. The Tesla technician who helped me remove the hidden nut said that they don't just replace the paddle gear anymore as a standard service item. They replace the entire door handle assembly with a more reliable design and I believe he said that costs about $320.
Wow, that is quite the comment! Can you come write this stuff out for me in the future?? lol. You are 100% correct on everything. I do feel the pulling of the door panel isn't quite as horrific as you make it out to be, but it is very nerve-racking to be yanking so hard on it. I have been meaning to add those little details about latching the door and putting the window all the way up to access that one nut, but haven't found the best way to add it to the video and have it remain up.
You're right, it's quite the challenge to get to that specific bolt and also to remove the zippers. Would have been worth mentioning in the instruction video to be well prepared.
Thanks for this excellent video! Just did our right rear door on our 2016 S. Had trouble with a few power connectors, and getting to the hidden bolts, but apart from that, no whammies. It was an amazing pain in the ass, but, now it works. Thank you!
Thank you for posting this
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Just repaired my 13' rear door
Thanks Dave!
How long did it take you?
subscribed for sure. Buying 2015 Tesla model s 70d (80K miles) and I know ima have to do this at some point, if not multiple times.
That is very proactive of you! Once you do one, its a walk in tha park!
2015 Model S 85D. Surprised it took this long for a door handle to fail. Tesla quoted me $315 for repair. Might have gone for that, but the other three doors are probably next in line. Ordered the gear from ReelDeal on Friday and received it Monday (figured that was the problem). The video didn't match my car (driver door) but managed to figure it out as it was similar. After removing the three nuts wouldn't budge so scratched my head and eventually read the comments about the fourth nut accessible from the window slot. Didn't know how to remove the trim but found it just pulls off. I lost one of the other nuts somewhere in the door so I left the window one off as I won't need lto disassemble the door to get to it should I pick up a replacement. After reassembly the window was brushing the cabling and connector. I should have tied it off while the assembly was out but I wasn't going to remove it again - it is quite a task to fiddle it into place. Took me a long time to bind the cable out of the way due to limited access. Whole job took me 5 1/2 hours! The replacement gear seems heavier than the original. (The bushings needed to be removed to fit the new gear.) Just changed the configuration to only auto-present the driver door to limit the wear on the remaining three doors. After this job maybe $315 isn't so terrible to pay. Clearly Tesla didn't expect these gears to fail given how tough it is to access the gear.
Think about how much faster you will do it next time though! We have them down to just about 45 mins for the gear now.
Mine too 2015 model s. Failed 2 months ago.
Chad, you're the best.
Love, the mullet!.
Thank you for the instructional.
My rear driver side door handle doesn't make a single sound nor does it retract? So I'm thinking it's just the micro switches that need replacing.
But I'm going to replace the paddle gear anyway just to be on the safe side so that I don't have to disassemble this door again.
Chris, I appreciate the mullet recognition, after 20 years of cutting your hair the same way, you gotta do something different. We are starting to see more and more GEN 3 handles being installed, and the gear often breaks on the motor itself, you should still hear the motor, but if ambient noises are too high...you may not. I would pull the door panel off and see if you can identify your handle generation.
@@reeldealev I'm going to do this over the weekend.
Thanks, Chad. Yeah I realized that it's entirely possible that I need another motor.
We'll see what happens on Saturday.
I love your commentary on your videos.
chad - thanks for tips from a pro! masking the door handle smart. also making sure not to operate the window when apart (i ripped the lock harness and had to repair). the switches in the 2014 S wire up differently so i skipped. a couple of the little bushings on the paddle would not fit so i skipped. i have a piece of plastic that evidently covered the switch assembly and kept the wires from chafing on the window. Can't figure out how to get it back in.
my experience with tesla service is that they always leave a few parts out when buttoning up (to lighten the car i am sure) so i think this will work out but the best advice is to send it to a shop like yours.
this was really well presented.
in the 2014 S there is a second piece of plastic that evidently goes over the door latch assembly behind the window. the holes in the plastic sheathing match the 6mm (10 mm socket) bolts but are slid on as a place holder. I found it impossible to put this on after installing the latch assembly and so curled it up and left it in the well of the door. i think the main purpose of this might have been to keep the wires from rubbing on the window mechanism.
thanks again.
to any owners close enough to reel deal, i would suggest getting them to do this. really a pain in the ass that wound up taking up a couple of weekends. i thought about this when we bought - i wonder how long until one of those door handles needs maintenance. good news is that the later model cars have a better design.
Can you adjust the depth of the handle? Mine was replaced by Tesla service and it sticks out just a bit when retracted.
If it was a replacement recently by Tesla, they probably installed a GEN 3 handle. For this situation, you may be able to go into service mode and re-calibrate the handles to get them to sit flush.
@@reeldealev thanks it was gen 3
I hope this fixes my issue my door handle is stuck a quarter of the way out but still functions if I pull on the doorhandle to open it but it won’t retract in or out and I can’t hear the motor moving either
I have not seen that before, you may have a GEN 3 handle that needs adjusted.
Hi Chad, after I unlocked my Tesla (2013 Model S), I heard a loud pop then the rear driver door handle doesnt automatically go out anymore. I can still hear the motor when trying to lock/unlock the car. Does the paddle gear all i need to fix this issue? Please advice! Thank you for your time.
Mike, based on that description it sounds like it is just the paddle gear, but we always suggest going ahead and purchasing the combo because the wire harness has a high failure rate as well and you are already in there!
Howdy Chad! I ordered a pair of gears but didn't know if I needed a new harness as well. My passenger door handle will not extend with touch. If i hit another door handle, or hit the unlock button, it comes out and functions as normal, but it has no reaction to touch itself. What do you think would cause this and how can I fix this issue? Thanks in advance
@David Coyle Jr. It sounds like it is the paddle gear, check my CZcams shorts for a video to help identify, there is a sound you will be able to hear.
If it was the paddle gear, I don't think it would ever extend. More likely the microswitch that detects a push on the handle is bad (broken wire).
@Real Deal EV I see you have a door handle repair kit for Gen 2 on your site. Do you have Gen 1 or can I only get that from Tesla?
Thank you for subscribing, GEN 1 handle! Those are rare to still be around and operating. We do not have the ribbon cable style for a GEN 1, sorry.
What was the model S handle ? 1, 2 or 3 ? Because I heard that the last one need to be configured by Tesla....
Thanx
You are keeping your original handle so no configurations are needed.
Hi chad what year is that model s
That you are repairing
This is a 2015 P85DL
My car is a model s 2016 and I can’t get the plug to the door Handle undone. It has four or five wires in it . Want to remove completely so I can repair it. I replaced the sensors but door handle doesn’t extend. Do you have anything to recommend.
The plug is just a plug, I am not sure how to assist you on that. Press the clip and pull, it is easier to do when you remove it from the mount. The microswitch sensors just tell the handle where to stop, and when the hand pull is activated. It sounds like you have a broken gear either on the motor or paddle gear.
Is it safe or advised to cut the orange strap for the front door? I can'tfind enough room to get in there to work without doing so.
Great question, very rarely do we still have orange straps left, but this means that door has never been opened, a virgin door! Most are already cut.
Where is your shop located?
We are in Tampa, Florida!
I really appreciate you taking the time to put this video together. BUT, would be really helpful to discuss how to get at that one nut behind the window. That one took me over an hour and it was pure luck, along with a flexible extension. I didn’t put it back on when I reassembled since I didn’t want to deal with it again if I repeat this process. I figure three is enough to hold the assembly in place…
I do need to add to that, thanks!
👍 the rest of the video was super helpful and was my main source for the repair. Thanks!!
@@mkinsocal3492 how did you get it out, i couldnt even find the last one which i'm assuming is this one
@@user-oy6uf6pr9i It was equal portions of cursing : trying different tools : luck. The tool that finally worked (somehow) was a flexible extension to the socket. You have to feel for the nut. For once in my life my kid-sized arms were useful. I was able to get the socket on by feel and then attached the wrench to the extension just to break it free. There was not enough room to keep using the socket so then I just used my fingers to twist off the nut. I didn't replace the nut when I reinstalled - #1 because I couldn't and #2 didn't want to deal with it again if / when I have to replace. Good luck!
I have a problem with door handle model s2021 the door handle can’t move out and when I touch the door handle a little bit the door gets open I don’t have nothing broken inside the handle what should I do
Take it to Tesla, lol. It’s under warranty.
@@reeldealev its happen after remove and replace the handle I just painted the 2 front doors
@@OmidMohebi11 ahh I understand, it sounds like you may need to reset the car. You can try with the steering wheel resets, then try disconnecting the 12v and HV battery
My Tesla (2013 Model S) door handle is broken in a different way. When the handle of the front passenger door presents, it goes out too far and opens the door (typically not fully, but enough I have to open it to shut it). Do you sell a part or have a video to fix that issue? It's pretty annoying, but I don't want to pay Tesla $1,000 to fix it.
That is typically the micro switch adjustment. There is a small arm on the microswitch that contacts a small Torx screw, and it can be adjusted so that doesn't happen.
Does Tesla sell paddle gears separately?
Yes
Paddle Gear (1042845-00-B) I just asked for a Paddle Gear when I was there to get a 4 way valve.
The two hidden nuts holding the handle to the door proved to be quite difficult. A bit more explanation in the video on how you got these out would be helpful. My socket wrench got wedged between the bold and the window mechanism before the nut came off and I could not get the wrench out or change the direction to screw the nut back onto the bolt. I think it needed to be loosened, remove the wrench and unscrew the nut by hand... now I'm stuck.
It depends on if you are on the front or rear door. But having the window all the way down and the chrome/felt trim removed helps to get to the two top nuts. I do agree with you that I need to add some additional details on that part. Hopefully, you have gotten yourself out of being stuck!
@@reeldealev Thanks for the reply. With the wrench solidly against the window, it was too late for me to lower. I finally gave up and called in a Tesla service rep. Learned a couple things from watching him:
1. When the door is open the window comes down slightly, which puts the window over the upper nut. You can flip the mechanism in the door frame to "trick" the window into thinking the door is closed (this raises the window out of the way.
2. he took the rubber flashings out at the bottom of the window. This allowed the window to move slightly inward providing additional space to work on nuts and manipulate the door handle mechanism. He even had a little blow up bag that he placed between the outside and the window to hold the window away from the door handle mechanism.
3. Of course the real killer was that he replaced the entire door handle mechanism with an update that is more reliable than the original design.
I have the gear purchased from Reel Deal EV if anybody wants it.
@@reeldealev by
@@sprollie Hi
Helpful instructions all the way until they weren't! My 2016 S90D door handles have a 4th nut on the upper left corner behind the window glass! Unreachable! You have to remove the window to get to it! Or have a specialty, long handled angled 10mm socket to finagle around the glass. Too tight to get a socket on it, and the nut is recessed so you can't get a box wrench on it! Window UP for other three nuts, window DOWN for the top left nut, and requires special tool that I don't have so I had to give up and put it all back together without repairs bc I'm not taking out that glass!
Don't take out the glass, you don't need to! You can reach it with a standard open-ended 10mm wrench with the chrome exterior trim removed.
having the same issue. If you push the door lock (in the frame of the car) the window will go up a little bit more (as if the door is closed). But i still cant fit my tools to reach the nut :(
What if i broke my c clip?
Then you would need to get a new one...
A c-clip came with my Real Deal kit. This wasn't mentioned or shown on their webpage but maybe they decided too many peeps were losing (launching!) theirs.
The 2 wire to door handle absolutely will not release an has no visible tabs to push. 1 side has a lift tab that seems to do nothing.
I have never heard of cars that would need door handle replacement. Is that American quality thing?
I think it is more of an innovation flaw, had they continued to make door handles like legacy automakers this wouldn’t be an issue.
Could be a crap china parts thing.
Volkswagen Jetta/Golf all years