Actually, they should do it for nothing because they are the ones that butchered the joist and created the problem. I once had electricians completely ignore my instructions for how to drill through some structural members to install their wiring. I left a copy of the plans, the joist and LVL manufacturer's spec sheets, AND drew holes, exactly the right size, on the members where they were to drill, AND wrote copious instructions ON THE LVL, all in permanent marker. I then took "before" pictures of everything. Well, you guessed it, they did what they wanted, I believe intentionally, and butchered my framing. I immediately called in another framer to give me a quote to fix everything and had the local building inspector come by, fail it, and write the exact reason for the fail. I then reached out to the electrical contractor and told them they would be back charged for everything needed to fix what they messed up. They stopped work and sued me. I sued them back. As the initial hearing date approached, their attorney contacted me and asked me what my position was and what evidence I had. I told him what I had and sent him a few representative pictures, the notes from the building inspector, and all of the relevant emails to and from the contractor. They dropped the suit and sent me an invoice with a balance due of $0, along with a settlement agreement. Documentation and meticulous note taking saved me $8000.00 because the electrical rough in was complete at that point. They saved maybe one hour of work and some right angke, tight quarters drilling, but cost themselves $8K in the process. 🤷
We definitely want to be authentic and to be so means that we need to show all the aspects of our work as builders. We’ll post another video when we find out what the engineers say and the solutions they come up with! Thank you for checking us out and for your feedback
We really try to show the good the bad and the ugly. Successes we have and the failures we learn from. I’m still new to filming so like all things in life we’ll progress as we practice. We hope that our sincerity and smart a$$ ness(🤣) will be appreciated. And we’re always happy to get positive feedback. So many haters out there. Thanks!
Got to commend you on putting this out. Takes balls to show mistakes. That being said,and this is for the guys coming up behind us, a couple of things to know: -shear wall systems are designed to be continuous from foundation to foundation. That means NO breakers from anchor point, up the wall to the roof, over the roof, and down the opposite parallel wall to the foundation again. -all bearing walls, interior and exterior, are required to have full baring through the floor. Standard is at least 2 joists. -the structural engineer trumps both the architect and manufacturer. The residential building code trumps them. Local building codes trump the RBC. It’s our job as contractors to understand it all and put it together. Remember, all plans are just lines on paper till we get our talented hands on them. Learn to expect that NO set of plans will ever come out perfect. Something will be missed by everyone else in the chain and it’s on us to anticipate, find and work through these discrepancies to make everything right to meet all requirements. Good luck out there, boys and girls. Cheers
Gotta always show the good with the bad. The fixes were easy. Took about 2 hours. Engineer wanted more crush blocks beneath the door. 2’ oc. Shear was already taken car of by the 2 wing walls and floor to floor straps. The joist the plumber hit simply required a head out. Draft stop. Easy fix. Put it in.
I do agree with the inspector on the shear wall. That wall needs a better connection to the floor diaphragm to carry lateral loads. Like you did great on the gravity load aspect but it needs better connection to the floor.
The fix was just a bunch more squash blocking. The door above was so big that there was no shear to connect the middle anyways. But it needed squash support under it
We get crazy ones here and there. Straps everywhere. The interior shear I think was boosting the side walls. Then it was strapped there 2 times to concrete and 2 floor to floor straps. With the huge door it took away any real shear connection in the center anyways.
to prevent future headaches / schedule issues like this you should start drawing your projects in sketchup in full stud by stud detail before building. not that hard. more time up front but protects your reputation. normally i have control of floorplan but if i had to build room dimensions to architect’s plans I would be even more sure to do a stud by stud sanity check.
@@bigbadbuilderllc doesn’t really matter what software you use but sketchup is nice because it’s easy to draw shapes from scratch, you don’t have to deal with “wall tool” “floor tool” etc just make a component for each type of lumber going in and make sure you dimension everything as you go instead of trying to fix the scale afterwards
@@bigbadbuilderllc I wouldn't waste your time with sketch up. EVERYTHING eventually falls back on the design professional that stamped and signed the drawings. Something I learned very quickly in the commercial game, the most important tool as a contractor/tradesman is the RFI; Request For Information. "I understand, I have been told, I have been doing it like that...." is meaningless. Written documentation from the top is the only fool proof way to CYA.
Discrepancies are common, it's important to resolve them prior to starting the work. Sometimes you guess, and fall back on "I know the inspector it'll make sense to him" and sometimes spector is in a bad mood and fails you. No big deal, get the plans from the engineer and finish er up. Best of luck.
I’m a former structural engineer and you’re doing a great job! (I can also attest to the sad fact that many engineers these days don’t have enough hands on experience to understand the basics to make proper call and may just go with an overly conservative / complicated “solution”). Best of luck!
Thanks for the positive comment. Solution wasn’t bad. Squash blocks 2’ oc. The wall wasn’t a shear force problem. But it needed solid squash for the 16’ door above.
This falls on the Designer/Architect and the builder, full stop unless the framer didn’t follow the plans. I’d fire any plumber that would cut a joist without asking for approval so I find it hard to believe the plumber cut this without builders knowledge.
@thebullgator BullSh!t, the builder f@cked up. All engineering plans and architectural notes tell you not to do this. To see this and not call it out to the plumbers attention prior to calling the inspectors is lazy! The builder should have caught this potential mess when he was laying out the T-joist, them moved the layout according.
I put that more so on the plumber. The lead framer, the guy doing the actual layout work also needs to know about things like this, and toilet flange framing. In general I mean, I didnt look close enough to the plumbing here.
No one gives a blank because most are making what they made 20 years ago they’re very lucky they have anyone show up period. They can get their current job anywhere anytime so give them to much crap they will just leave.
Looks like some good framing. Someone dropped the ball on that lower shear wall and it's design function. I believe that it was intended to be tied into the floor diaphragm via a drag/ horizontal connection? Don't think you're building in a seismic zone? Talk about crazy and intrusive hardware to work around! Nice work sir and I hope that the fix is simple. Not really a big problem to rectify.
Thanks for checking us out and the positive feedback. The fix wasn’t too bad. They just wanted a bunch of squash blocks all along the top of the wall. And then nailed wherever possible down through the upper floor sheathing. Wasn’t to bad.
@@bigbadbuilderllc OP is somewhat correct. On stick frame it is, with trusses it is different. On stick frame the walls and ride are supporting the rafters, so the studs are just infill for sheathing at the gable. With trusses I would imagine that it is holding a load with how they are made.
If you’re gable end has only vertical chords with no angles it is not a free span truss. Therefore the load is spread onto the exterior wall it’s sitting on.
Usually there is a general note and/or detail showing the point load carrying down. The plans don’t necessarily show each and every point load on the lower floor.
That's a big ass house, I've had dozens upon dozens of framing inspections; never flunked one, but; our stuff is easy; an addition or whole house remodel...I'd hate to build something that big..I couldn't find enough framers to do it...All the real framers are working...Hope it wasn't too bad sorting it out...
Everyone in construction should know how to follow load paths. Good for you for being able to do it and KNOWING to do it. Did the plumber get a charge back?
A person can really see how much disconnect there is between the initial architectural plans, the engineers structural requirements, and the subsequent various trades punching holes where they shouldn't (because they had no choice) to get their scope of work completed. I'm glad I no longer work in housing construction/remodeling. Too much grief.
I have a 1904 house where all sorts of framing has been removed or messed around with over the last 120 years before i did a total remodel and the house hasnt moved an inch. Some of this engineered shit is just dumb.
As a carpenter to another carpenter the sheer wall continues the second floor load bearing points that was a given to ladder the that load bearing wall.
Next time adjust your joist (placement/or pack it out) to sister on shear wall with ceiling nailer backer and shear transfer ties... Add cross blocking on 16c layout. We do it all the time.
I liked this in theory. But I feel it should have had the floor trusses on 16 oc instead of regular roof layout of 24” oc. It felt a little bouncy to walk on.
The plumbing inspectors ok with banding iron holding the ABS without even electrical tape wrapped around it... I guess I'm being critical just seems odd to me..
All this is bull shit!!! Inspectors gotta cover there butts!! Great build my friend! I ot out of framing 10 years ago, just because of these situations
And this is why I never build with those I joists, always use floor trusses. Mechanicals run thru without cutting. Plus I joists are horrible in a fire.
Ive yet to meet a plumber that understands structure. Sounds like you have a crappy set of drawings, load paths and hold downs/ shearwall details should be clearly indicated. EOR should review all joist and truss design regardless as they take the liability issue, not the manufacturer.
Yeah that is typical for a shear wall. The plans should have had a detail to connect it to the floor diaphragm. Maybe there's a plan to drag it into the exterior walls, and you say there are straps somewhere--could be... I know it's a big hassle, and you worked hard for the inspection, but not so bad an outcome.
As a former contractor, inspector and plans examiner, and chief building official, your inspector is correct. That shear wall is almost useless if not properly extended to the floor diaphragm above it.
There’s a 16’ slider above this wall that holds zero shear. The engineers actually shoved the shear out to the sides with wall sheets and mstc straps. What was needed ended up being a bunch of squash blocks to support the heavy door
Your honesty and transparency is admirable. You didn’t knock other trades, you just pointed out mistakes made. Definitely commendable in my book. I’d definitely have you as a builder. Really great job. What state are you in? Thats going to be a beautiful home. Sure hope you put high lift on that garage door, would be ashame to not utilize the headroom, Lol. I’m a garage door installer so I notice stuff like that. Looked to be several feet of headroom from the outside of the opening to the roof, didn’t show any content from inside the garage So its kinda hard to tell.
Was only a 7’ tall door. After the slab it ended up with a 9’ ceiling height I think. The engineering fix wasn’t bad. A bunch of squash blocks and a joist headout. Some minor draft stop sheeting.
@@bigbadbuilderllc understood completely. I’m just a fan of putting high lift on doors with appropriate headroom. Maybe even consider putting 20” radius track even in that headroom and can still use a draw bar opener or definitely can install a RJO side mount. The doors roll so much better in a bigger radius. Thanks for your response, take care and Merry Christmas to you and your family Glad you got that framing straightened out, i had total faith you would, you do great work
Framers here are only responsible for the wood framing. We will block, sheet, cover whatever hole but there’s a completely different trade that comes through and does air seal and fire foam etc.
That interior shear wall appears to be the outside wall's (second floor, under porch door) load path. Basically, you have a "garage portal"; with that said, you have osb behind the new siding (exterior wall plane) and osb on exterior wall around that porch door... Yes, i tend to default with building inspection and would like to see an uninterrupted load path wherever you can. I get your floor joist (second floor) offset to the shear wall, i would like to see solid blocking and maybe double hurricane clips from joist to top of shear wall and of course crush blocks on webs of floor joist... So, crush blocks, solid blocking and hurricane clips for the shear wall. I am interested to know where the wall or joist were placed in the alternative design. Alternative to all my above statement is just get your engineer to say it's okay as is... Again, think if this as a garage portal opening and some designs might have floor joist extend into being a floor joist for exterior porch (meaning, u can't run a shear wall up the entire exterior... but, you would solid block it and maybe even schrib osm around floor joist from lower wall 🧱
The upper was in theory spread out through the header beam down through the trimmers solidly through the lower wall and lower floor and to the concrete. There was also in theory enough shear from sheets and straps that it structurally wouldn’t have been a problem. I didn’t like that the 16’ door was sitting with no support under it. So I of my own volition added some squash blocks. Which was close to what was needed. I just didn’t put enough of them. I had said something to the powers that be prior to but it wasn’t supposed to be a problem. Added a bunch of blocking later which wasn’t fun but we got it in there and onto the next one
Wasn’t trying to call out the plumbers. Only noting that they hit a joist. Could have been my fault during framing if I missed something on layout. Or just bad design. The list goes on and on.
That shear wall is definitely wrong. There is no point in the shear wall unless the shear can carry through the diaphragm above to the shear wall below. I don’t know if you have a shear wall above or not but you would have to carry shear from the upper wall to the lower wall as well.
Above is a giant 16’ door opening so there really isn’t shear there anyway. What was really missing was squash to support the giant door. Which I knew and put some, but I didn’t have a detail to tell me how often to put it. Ended up every 2’ which we were able to slip in without too much difficulty.
Looked more like setbacks than fails. Plumbers should know what they can and cannot do to structural members. They should at least ask for permission if they run into a "situation" Hopefully the inspection didn't hold back your progress.
I feel like the shear wall issue , shouldn't have been an issue in the first place. Everything is laid out in the print , you can't just do whatever you feel like otherwise you run into issues . What's the point of that shear wall not being connected?
We failed an inspection once because the engineer didn't account for wall strength because of the window set going in. You could push the wall in and out. To fix it took a stamp and 3 big straps and 200 nails each. Needless to say that wall don't move but the engineer can be your friend and worst nightmare in one go.
I appreciate the comment. I don’t know extremely what joist products you’re using there or the situations you’re using them in but here we’re allowed to do headouts as shown in this video in order to avoid plumbing etc. We’re also allowed to move joists over up to 3” which is our preferred method. However in 99% of situations it’s a pre engineered fix for us here if a plumber hits a joist to do a headout. Web must be filled both sides. Glued and nailed. Must be web filled a minimum of 1 foot. I always do 4 foot minimum or the maximum length possible if it’s smaller than 4’ anyways. I don’t doubt your experience and I’m not starting a debate, it’s common practice here and the requirements I just stated are supplied with our floor package with the LP Solid Start manufacturers manual
You don’t. People who want to steal your stuff are going to find a way. We had thousands stolen from us while we were sleeping in our travel trailer in the driveway. I have tool coverage of 25k
The plumber drilled it ? I would be shocked if the truss manufacture would not approve . Another fix would be for the plumber to remove his pipe and sandwich the center of the truss with three-quarter plywood on each side glued and then drill it
I normally would too but the plans gave me too many options and when I asked project management I was told the floor manufacturer plan superseded all other plans.
I never really understood shear walls, and how and why they are placed where they are and why in thise specific areas, because they are very specific locations. I need a real mother fkr to explain it,like an engineer or architectural type pretty boy, cant get the shoes dirty type
Dude when and doubt ask the engineer that’s what they get paid for Before I can call for framing I need a report form engineer of record Of project that they inspected project
Where abouts are you from? Here inspections go through county building departments. If they fail you for something structural you have a licensed engineer give you a history stamped approval for a fix. You fix to those specs and recall inspection.
Wish i could see the details. I would have called the structural engineer out during framing and layout and hit them with multiple RFIs and hard hitting change orders to cover my as$, i still say the builder f@cked up by not doing that prior to call for inspection.
I had actually talked with the project manager and made a call in the field. It wasn’t a big deal 💩 happens. The main builder paid us for our time to do the engineering solutions. Then onto the next one. The engineer just wanted squash blocks every 2’ to support the huge door above it. Didn’t even have anything to do with shear really.
We try to show the good the bad and the down right ugly! We appreciate you checking out our video and we hope that our successes and our failures are helpful in some way to who ever views them.
They are actually called joist hangers. You can use them on an already sheeted floor but you need to have face nail hangers. Simpson makes some. You’ll also need to webfill the joist before nailing your hanger to it. I have another video up showing you how to do it.
I put a video out. Essentially I was on the right track with the initial squash blocks we put in. But the engineer wanted more. And we had to sneak nails into them down through the floor. It wasn’t really a shear problem like the inspector said. It was a squash problem from the heavy 16’ door. The joist that got hit just got a headout. Had to reroute the plumbing and electrical. Not really a big deal either way. More of just a nuisance
dude, the terminology is 'jack' not 'trimmer'. it's called a jack because it's purpose is to hold or 'jack' the weight above, not to add an ornamental element to the framing. you wouldn't trim your car to change a tire, you would jack it, same goes for structures.
sure, but that doesn't make it correct. if you define jack it's 'a device used for lifting heavy objects' if you define trimmer it's ' used to trim or decorate'. I've noticed that 'trimmer' has become the go to word for any structural member used in construction that is not 'common'. but does that make a rafter from the wall plate to the hip a 'trimmer' of course not it's a jack. what about a beam or double joist used to frame a stair opening, are they trimmers? that's what people are now calling them. the first time I heard the term 'trimmer' used in place of 'jack' was about 40 years ago when I moved to southern California. the track framers called them that because that's how they used them, not part of a solid post to jack the weight, but as an adjustable member to accommodate the drywall return or to true up a door opening. they would tack the 'trimmer' onto the king stud with a couple of 12d and then pry it out to obtain the proper dimension and plumb the opening. then they would cinch nail a couple of 12ds to hold the trimmer in place. in the meantime the header was left hanging on by only the nails attaching it to the king studs. so to me when I hear the term trimmer used in this manner I think of poor building skills. another term that I hear misused and sends me cringing is 'pitch' when the carpenter really means 'slope', but that's a conversation for another day.@@bigbadbuilderllc
PLEASE don’t shoot CZcams videos in portrait format‼️That might be what grandma does with the grandkids, but LANDSCAPE is the format used be people wanting to turn out something professional looking that they can be proud of.
I’m not exactly sure what you’re talking about. I never realized that turning my phone sideways actually changed the way my videos would be seen. So I started doing that. I’m great at building but still somewhat new to filming. Thanks for the tip
idgaf what anyone says... laminated beams are the dumbest shit ive ever seen.. if you have to put a sticker up to tell firefighters theres a danger because of shitty materials then maybe you shouldnt use that shitty stuff. i f i have any doubt in my projects i just over engineer it... but what do i know i know im just a GED student millenial
"Knock these pipes out for a minute" Spoken like a true person who fears the trades will milk this HARD
Actually, they should do it for nothing because they are the ones that butchered the joist and created the problem. I once had electricians completely ignore my instructions for how to drill through some structural members to install their wiring. I left a copy of the plans, the joist and LVL manufacturer's spec sheets, AND drew holes, exactly the right size, on the members where they were to drill, AND wrote copious instructions ON THE LVL, all in permanent marker. I then took "before" pictures of everything. Well, you guessed it, they did what they wanted, I believe intentionally, and butchered my framing. I immediately called in another framer to give me a quote to fix everything and had the local building inspector come by, fail it, and write the exact reason for the fail. I then reached out to the electrical contractor and told them they would be back charged for everything needed to fix what they messed up. They stopped work and sued me. I sued them back. As the initial hearing date approached, their attorney contacted me and asked me what my position was and what evidence I had. I told him what I had and sent him a few representative pictures, the notes from the building inspector, and all of the relevant emails to and from the contractor. They dropped the suit and sent me an invoice with a balance due of $0, along with a settlement agreement. Documentation and meticulous note taking saved me $8000.00 because the electrical rough in was complete at that point. They saved maybe one hour of work and some right angke, tight quarters drilling, but cost themselves $8K in the process. 🤷
Thanks for showing your inspection fail- helps us all to get better. Keep up the awesome vids.
We definitely want to be authentic and to be so means that we need to show all the aspects of our work as builders. We’ll post another video when we find out what the engineers say and the solutions they come up with! Thank you for checking us out and for your feedback
@@bigbadbuilderllcnice attitude i like it
We really try to show the good the bad and the ugly. Successes we have and the failures we learn from. I’m still new to filming so like all things in life we’ll progress as we practice. We hope that our sincerity and smart a$$ ness(🤣) will be appreciated. And we’re always happy to get positive feedback. So many haters out there. Thanks!
Got to commend you on putting this out. Takes balls to show mistakes. That being said,and this is for the guys coming up behind us, a couple of things to know:
-shear wall systems are designed to be continuous from foundation to foundation. That means NO breakers from anchor point, up the wall to the roof, over the roof, and down the opposite parallel wall to the foundation again.
-all bearing walls, interior and exterior, are required to have full baring through the floor. Standard is at least 2 joists.
-the structural engineer trumps both the architect and manufacturer. The residential building code trumps them. Local building codes trump the RBC. It’s our job as contractors to understand it all and put it together. Remember, all plans are just lines on paper till we get our talented hands on them. Learn to expect that NO set of plans will ever come out perfect. Something will be missed by everyone else in the chain and it’s on us to anticipate, find and work through these discrepancies to make everything right to meet all requirements.
Good luck out there, boys and girls. Cheers
Gotta always show the good with the bad.
The fixes were easy. Took about 2 hours. Engineer wanted more crush blocks beneath the door. 2’ oc. Shear was already taken car of by the 2 wing walls and floor to floor straps.
The joist the plumber hit simply required a head out.
Draft stop. Easy fix. Put it in.
I do agree with the inspector on the shear wall. That wall needs a better connection to the floor diaphragm to carry lateral loads. Like you did great on the gravity load aspect but it needs better connection to the floor.
The fix was just a bunch more squash blocking. The door above was so big that there was no shear to connect the middle anyways. But it needed squash support under it
@@bigbadbuilderllcSo that shear wall wasn’t needed? What a waste.
@@bigbadbuilderllc I'm glad it wasn't too bad then! I live in a seismic category D2 area so structural requirements can be nuts.
We get crazy ones here and there. Straps everywhere.
The interior shear I think was boosting the side walls. Then it was strapped there 2 times to concrete and 2 floor to floor straps. With the huge door it took away any real shear connection in the center anyways.
to prevent future headaches / schedule issues like this you should start drawing your projects in sketchup in full stud by stud detail before building. not that hard. more time up front but protects your reputation. normally i have control of floorplan but if i had to build room dimensions to architect’s plans I would be even more sure to do a stud by stud sanity check.
Thank you for the advice. I’ll have to check out sketch ups use. I do have drafting experience but it’s mostly autocad and inventor!
@@bigbadbuilderllc doesn’t really matter what software you use but sketchup is nice because it’s easy to draw shapes from scratch, you don’t have to deal with “wall tool” “floor tool” etc just make a component for each type of lumber going in and make sure you dimension everything as you go instead of trying to fix the scale afterwards
used to be free now it’s $300/year but chump change relative to catching a couple mistakes each project
@@bigbadbuilderllc I wouldn't waste your time with sketch up. EVERYTHING eventually falls back on the design professional that stamped and signed the drawings. Something I learned very quickly in the commercial game, the most important tool as a contractor/tradesman is the RFI; Request For Information. "I understand, I have been told, I have been doing it like that...." is meaningless. Written documentation from the top is the only fool proof way to CYA.
Make the engineer/architect 3D model everything. GC shouldn’t have to. These problems could be avoided if you have good subs and communication.
Discrepancies are common, it's important to resolve them prior to starting the work. Sometimes you guess, and fall back on "I know the inspector it'll make sense to him" and sometimes spector is in a bad mood and fails you. No big deal, get the plans from the engineer and finish er up. Best of luck.
Well done you on thinking ahead with load points. This is going to be a stunning home
Thanks for seeing what we were trying to do and for leaving a positive comment
I’m a former structural engineer and you’re doing a great job! (I can also attest to the sad fact that many engineers these days don’t have enough hands on experience to understand the basics to make proper call and may just go with an overly conservative / complicated “solution”). Best of luck!
Thanks for the positive comment.
Solution wasn’t bad. Squash blocks 2’ oc. The wall wasn’t a shear force problem. But it needed solid squash for the 16’ door above.
Framer knew better and plumber knew better but they didn’t g.a.f…
This falls on the Designer/Architect and the builder, full stop unless the framer didn’t follow the plans. I’d fire any plumber that would cut a joist without asking for approval so I find it hard to believe the plumber cut this without builders knowledge.
A trade screwed up, tell me it ain’t so. Lol
@thebullgator BullSh!t, the builder f@cked up. All engineering plans and architectural notes tell you not to do this. To see this and not call it out to the plumbers attention prior to calling the inspectors is lazy! The builder should have caught this potential mess when he was laying out the T-joist, them moved the layout according.
I put that more so on the plumber. The lead framer, the guy doing the actual layout work also needs to know about things like this, and toilet flange framing. In general I mean, I didnt look close enough to the plumbing here.
No one gives a blank because most are making what they made 20 years ago they’re very lucky they have anyone show up period. They can get their current job anywhere anytime so give them to much crap they will just leave.
Oh those damn plumbers!
Looks like some good framing. Someone dropped the ball on that lower shear wall and it's design function. I believe that it was intended to be tied into the floor diaphragm via a drag/ horizontal connection? Don't think you're building in a seismic zone? Talk about crazy and intrusive hardware to work around! Nice work sir and I hope that the fix is simple. Not really a big problem to rectify.
Thanks for checking us out and the positive feedback.
The fix wasn’t too bad. They just wanted a bunch of squash blocks all along the top of the wall. And then nailed wherever possible down through the upper floor sheathing. Wasn’t to bad.
great job and great video, im sure a nice Walnut railing wood be nice
A typical gable end is virtually load free…so transferring any non existent loads should never be of issue!
How is a gable end load free? And what about wind snow etc? I’m not being a smart a$$.
@@bigbadbuilderllc OP is somewhat correct. On stick frame it is, with trusses it is different. On stick frame the walls and ride are supporting the rafters, so the studs are just infill for sheathing at the gable. With trusses I would imagine that it is holding a load with how they are made.
If you’re gable end has only vertical chords with no angles it is not a free span truss. Therefore the load is spread onto the exterior wall it’s sitting on.
Usually there is a general note and/or detail showing the point load carrying down. The plans don’t necessarily show each and every point load on the lower floor.
Thanks for sharing this. Definitely encouraging. You're doing great work!!
Thanks for checking us out and leaving a positive comment
That's a big ass house, I've had dozens upon dozens of framing inspections; never flunked one, but; our stuff is easy; an addition or whole house remodel...I'd hate to build something that big..I couldn't find enough framers to do it...All the real framers are working...Hope it wasn't too bad sorting it out...
Me and 1 guy with an occasional 3rd as a laborer.
@@bigbadbuilderllc That's a LOT of work for 2 guys...Good health to you and yours...
Everyone in construction should know how to follow load paths. Good for you for being able to do it and KNOWING to do it. Did the plumber get a charge back?
This builder doesn’t really do charge backs very often. They do however pay us extra to handle the repairs or alterations.
A person can really see how much disconnect there is between the initial architectural plans, the engineers structural requirements, and the subsequent various trades punching holes where they shouldn't (because they had no choice) to get their scope of work completed. I'm glad I no longer work in housing construction/remodeling. Too much grief.
Definitely a headache sometimes dealing with all the separate components for a build
I have a 1904 house where all sorts of framing has been removed or messed around with over the last 120 years before i did a total remodel and the house hasnt moved an inch.
Some of this engineered shit is just dumb.
Some seems silly. Some was just to make things a little cheaper to build for the average Joe. But now everything is expensive anyways
As a carpenter to another carpenter the sheer wall continues the second floor load bearing points that was a given to ladder the that load bearing wall.
Next time adjust your joist (placement/or pack it out) to sister on shear wall with ceiling nailer backer and shear transfer ties...
Add cross blocking on 16c layout.
We do it all the time.
I hate those low slope flat roofs using wood. Never seems to be a 100% surefire way to waterproof those.
I liked this in theory. But I feel it should have had the floor trusses on 16 oc instead of regular roof layout of 24” oc. It felt a little bouncy to walk on.
The plumbing inspectors ok with banding iron holding the ABS without even electrical tape wrapped around it... I guess I'm being critical just seems odd to me..
All this is bull shit!!! Inspectors gotta cover there butts!! Great build my friend! I ot out of framing 10 years ago, just because of these situations
Thank you. I bounce around trades because I get bored. Love framing and finish work!
Your interior shear wall connections look good to me.
And this is why I never build with those I joists, always use floor trusses. Mechanicals run thru without cutting. Plus I joists are horrible in a fire.
We don’t get too many floor joists out here but I could definitely see how they’d be nice for mechanicals
As a plumber, why didn't the tee of the tub go on the other side? Prevents the need to cut the joist...
Ive yet to meet a plumber that understands structure. Sounds like you have a crappy set of drawings, load paths and hold downs/ shearwall details should be clearly indicated. EOR should review all joist and truss design regardless as they take the liability issue, not the manufacturer.
That shear wall needs to transfer the resisting load thru the floor. Truss design does superceded the building engineer.
is there not detailed spec before you start, that has been passed by the planning dept?
Yeah that is typical for a shear wall. The plans should have had a detail to connect it to the floor diaphragm. Maybe there's a plan to drag it into the exterior walls, and you say there are straps somewhere--could be... I know it's a big hassle, and you worked hard for the inspection, but not so bad an outcome.
As a former contractor, inspector and plans examiner, and chief building official, your inspector is correct. That shear wall is almost useless if not properly extended to the floor diaphragm above it.
There’s a 16’ slider above this wall that holds zero shear. The engineers actually shoved the shear out to the sides with wall sheets and mstc straps.
What was needed ended up being a bunch of squash blocks to support the heavy door
Framing is great
Your honesty and transparency is admirable. You didn’t knock other trades, you just pointed out mistakes made. Definitely commendable in my book. I’d definitely have you as a builder. Really great job.
What state are you in? Thats going to be a beautiful home.
Sure hope you put high lift on that garage door, would be ashame to not utilize the headroom, Lol. I’m a garage door installer so I notice stuff like that. Looked to be several feet of headroom from the outside of the opening to the roof, didn’t show any content from inside the garage So its kinda hard to tell.
Was only a 7’ tall door. After the slab it ended up with a 9’ ceiling height I think.
The engineering fix wasn’t bad. A bunch of squash blocks and a joist headout. Some minor draft stop sheeting.
I’m in Western Washington
@@bigbadbuilderllc understood completely. I’m just a fan of putting high lift on doors with appropriate headroom. Maybe even consider putting 20” radius track even in that headroom and can still use a draw bar opener or definitely can install a RJO side mount. The doors roll so much better in a bigger radius.
Thanks for your response, take care and Merry Christmas to you and your family
Glad you got that framing straightened out, i had total faith you would, you do great work
Thanks for the positive comments and the holiday wishes. Best wishes to you and yours as well this holiday season!
@@bigbadbuilderllc yes sir, you’re very welcome!!
Gotta love plumbers!😂
I thought what you did was great. I saw your electrical and plumbing, but really no hvac. What type of heating and cooling system are you installing.?
The hvac was ran through the crawl I think and then up through a few chutes framed into the corners of the buildings
How does draft stop work with no caulk or spray foam… it doesnt.. fail for sure on the firestop front inspectors lackin
Framers here are only responsible for the wood framing. We will block, sheet, cover whatever hole but there’s a completely different trade that comes through and does air seal and fire foam etc.
That interior shear wall appears to be the outside wall's (second floor, under porch door) load path.
Basically, you have a "garage portal"; with that said, you have osb behind the new siding (exterior wall plane) and osb on exterior wall around that porch door...
Yes, i tend to default with building inspection and would like to see an uninterrupted load path wherever you can.
I get your floor joist (second floor) offset to the shear wall, i would like to see solid blocking and maybe double hurricane clips from joist to top of shear wall and of course crush blocks on webs of floor joist...
So, crush blocks, solid blocking and hurricane clips for the shear wall.
I am interested to know where the wall or joist were placed in the alternative design.
Alternative to all my above statement is just get your engineer to say it's okay as is...
Again, think if this as a garage portal opening and some designs might have floor joist extend into being a floor joist for exterior porch (meaning, u can't run a shear wall up the entire exterior... but, you would solid block it and maybe even schrib osm around floor joist from lower wall 🧱
The upper was in theory spread out through the header beam down through the trimmers solidly through the lower wall and lower floor and to the concrete.
There was also in theory enough shear from sheets and straps that it structurally wouldn’t have been a problem.
I didn’t like that the 16’ door was sitting with no support under it. So I of my own volition added some squash blocks. Which was close to what was needed. I just didn’t put enough of them.
I had said something to the powers that be prior to but it wasn’t supposed to be a problem.
Added a bunch of blocking later which wasn’t fun but we got it in there and onto the next one
Damn those plumbers. All they know is Friday is payday and shit goes downhill.
Wasn’t trying to call out the plumbers. Only noting that they hit a joist. Could have been my fault during framing if I missed something on layout. Or just bad design. The list goes on and on.
Super funny comment 🤣😂🤣😂
@@bigbadbuilderllc It was something my Auto mechanic instructor taught us.
That shear wall is definitely wrong. There is no point in the shear wall unless the shear can carry through the diaphragm above to the shear wall below. I don’t know if you have a shear wall above or not but you would have to carry shear from the upper wall to the lower wall as well.
Above is a giant 16’ door opening so there really isn’t shear there anyway. What was really missing was squash to support the giant door. Which I knew and put some, but I didn’t have a detail to tell me how often to put it. Ended up every 2’ which we were able to slip in without too much difficulty.
IF THE "ENGEERS" HAD TO FIX THEIR OWN PROBLEMS...THEY WOULDN'T CREATE THEM.
You know what's amazing. That homes were built to better quality before government stepped in and said hold my beer.
Looked more like setbacks than fails. Plumbers should know what they can and cannot do to structural members. They should at least ask for permission if they run into a "situation"
Hopefully the inspection didn't hold back your progress.
It was too big of a deal. Took a day to fix. Wasn’t too bad on delays or anything
I feel like the shear wall issue , shouldn't have been an issue in the first place. Everything is laid out in the print , you can't just do whatever you feel like otherwise you run into issues . What's the point of that shear wall not being connected?
Sometimes even the prints get it wrong. Especially when there is multiple prints telling you different things
We failed an inspection once because the engineer didn't account for wall strength because of the window set going in. You could push the wall in and out. To fix it took a stamp and 3 big straps and 200 nails each. Needless to say that wall don't move but the engineer can be your friend and worst nightmare in one go.
Sounds similar to an issue Stud Pack had on their garage!
I enjoyed watching the video but the TJI can't be a header for other TJIs . Framer for 26 years.
I appreciate the comment.
I don’t know extremely what joist products you’re using there or the situations you’re using them in but here we’re allowed to do headouts as shown in this video in order to avoid plumbing etc. We’re also allowed to move joists over up to 3” which is our preferred method. However in 99% of situations it’s a pre engineered fix for us here if a plumber hits a joist to do a headout.
Web must be filled both sides. Glued and nailed. Must be web filled a minimum of 1 foot. I always do 4 foot minimum or the maximum length possible if it’s smaller than 4’ anyways.
I don’t doubt your experience and I’m not starting a debate, it’s common practice here and the requirements I just stated are supplied with our floor package with the LP Solid Start manufacturers manual
How do you keep the tweekers from stealing everything?
Live in security?
You don’t. People who want to steal your stuff are going to find a way. We had thousands stolen from us while we were sleeping in our travel trailer in the driveway.
I have tool coverage of 25k
@@bigbadbuilderllc That just sucks. More insurance. You get screwed one way or another.
The plumber drilled it ? I would be shocked if the truss manufacture would not approve . Another fix would be for the plumber to remove his pipe and sandwich the center of the truss with three-quarter plywood on each side glued and then drill it
Shear wall I always connected to the load above
I normally would too but the plans gave me too many options and when I asked project management I was told the floor manufacturer plan superseded all other plans.
Do you know what type of waterproofing was used on the deck above the garage, the grey stuff just outside of the 16' slider?
I’m not sure of the brand. It’s similar to duradeck but not the same brand
What header above the slider? Looked very small
Great video thank you !
Thanks for checking us out
I never really understood shear walls, and how and why they are placed where they are and why in thise specific areas, because they are very specific locations. I need a real mother fkr to explain it,like an engineer or architectural type pretty boy, cant get the shoes dirty type
Dude when and doubt ask the engineer that’s what they get paid for
Before I can call for framing I need a report form engineer of record
Of project that they inspected project
Where abouts are you from? Here inspections go through county building departments. If they fail you for something structural you have a licensed engineer give you a history stamped approval for a fix. You fix to those specs and recall inspection.
Wish i could see the details. I would have called the structural engineer out during framing and layout and hit them with multiple RFIs and hard hitting change orders to cover my as$, i still say the builder f@cked up by not doing that prior to call for inspection.
I had actually talked with the project manager and made a call in the field. It wasn’t a big deal 💩 happens. The main builder paid us for our time to do the engineering solutions. Then onto the next one.
The engineer just wanted squash blocks every 2’ to support the huge door above it. Didn’t even have anything to do with shear really.
The way they want stuff built is getting ridiculous
This is why im a concrete finisher :)
Whole other set of challenges with the concrete
Thank you for posting this😊
We try to show the good the bad and the down right ugly! We appreciate you checking out our video and we hope that our successes and our failures are helpful in some way to who ever views them.
What are the brackets called?….The ones you refer to for the “head out. Can I use these if the floor is already on top?
They are actually called joist hangers. You can use them on an already sheeted floor but you need to have face nail hangers. Simpson makes some. You’ll also need to webfill the joist before nailing your hanger to it. I have another video up showing you how to do it.
Thanks for checking us out
@@bigbadbuilderllc heck yeah. I’ll check it out
I just had to do another headout. You can check out how on our newer videos
Btw the 2nd part isn't a load wall..lmao
@@Kjconst1970 which part are you talking about?
These are all design failures. The people ("architects") doing layout and design put no thought into the actual implementation.
I wouldn't trust anyone who makes vertical video to build my house
Good thing I’m not building your house then huh 🤣😅🤣😅
@@bigbadbuilderllc fr
Too many people with their hands in the mix.
I don't have a clue as to what you're talking about, but it sounds like someone is out, a lot of money......
It costed the main builder 800$ for us to come fix it.
"You were told that" at 5:44. WHO told you?
Those plumbers were lazy. They could have easily cut the pipes to cleaner lengths. FFS take some pride in anything with your name on it..
Next time frame a plumbers chase
All failed inspections are temporary..?
Pretty much all inspection fails are temporary unless it’s something unfix able!
So 5 months later whats the update video,?
I put a video out. Essentially I was on the right track with the initial squash blocks we put in. But the engineer wanted more. And we had to sneak nails into them down through the floor.
It wasn’t really a shear problem like the inspector said. It was a squash problem from the heavy 16’ door.
The joist that got hit just got a headout. Had to reroute the plumbing and electrical. Not really a big deal either way. More of just a nuisance
Truss joists solve that problem
Pro tip: Turn your phone sideways when making a video.
I never realized it actually records differently. Thanks
Being a slacker will cost everyone.
Lousy frame job.
What was lousy about it?
Trusses are crap 😵💫
Can't you just put in some cripple studs?
Was part of the fix. Thanks for checking us out
dude, the terminology is 'jack' not 'trimmer'. it's called a jack because it's purpose is to hold or 'jack' the weight above, not to add an ornamental element to the framing.
you wouldn't trim your car to change a tire, you would jack it, same goes for structures.
We call them trimmer studs here. Easy enough
I always thought it was called a Jack stud because the one right next to it is a King stud...
Who knows there’s always more than 1 name for everything. But if you google what is another name for jack stud trimmer definitely pops up
sure, but that doesn't make it correct. if you define jack it's 'a device used for lifting heavy objects' if you define trimmer it's ' used to trim or decorate'.
I've noticed that 'trimmer' has become the go to word for any structural member used in construction that is not 'common'. but does that make a rafter from the wall plate to the hip a 'trimmer' of course not it's a jack. what about a beam or double joist used to frame a stair opening, are they trimmers? that's what people are now calling them.
the first time I heard the term 'trimmer' used in place of 'jack' was about 40 years ago when I moved to southern California. the track framers called them that because that's how they used them, not part of a solid post to jack the weight, but as an adjustable member to accommodate the drywall return or to true up a door opening. they would tack the 'trimmer' onto the king stud with a couple of 12d and then pry it out to obtain the proper dimension and plumb the opening. then they would cinch nail a couple of 12ds to hold the trimmer in place. in the meantime the header was left hanging on by only the nails attaching it to the king studs.
so to me when I hear the term trimmer used in this manner I think of poor building skills. another term that I hear misused and sends me cringing is 'pitch' when the carpenter really means 'slope', but that's a conversation for another day.@@bigbadbuilderllc
To each his own. I don’t care what you call it as long as it’s built right
PLEASE don’t shoot CZcams videos in portrait format‼️That might be what grandma does with the grandkids, but LANDSCAPE is the format used be people wanting to turn out something professional looking that they can be proud of.
I’m not exactly sure what you’re talking about. I never realized that turning my phone sideways actually changed the way my videos would be seen. So I started doing that. I’m great at building but still somewhat new to filming. Thanks for the tip
LMAO WHATA BUNCHA DUMB SOBS
idgaf what anyone says... laminated beams are the dumbest shit ive ever seen.. if you have to put a sticker up to tell firefighters theres a danger because of shitty materials then maybe you shouldnt use that shitty stuff. i f i have any doubt in my projects i just over engineer it... but what do i know i know im just a GED student millenial
Your not educated so what you think does not matter!!!! It about the engineering of the build!!!!!
I’m not educated? Are you sure? The whole point of this video was that the engineering of the build was off!