Flintlock Rifle Pan Polishing Project - Chambers Siler Lock

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  • čas přidán 17. 07. 2018
  • Recommended to me on the range as a means to not only speed up ignition but also make cleanup between rounds significantly easier, especially in the humid Florida weather, Ive decided to remove the Siler lock and polish the pan to a mirror shine. This reduces the surface area to provide for the benefits mentioned above. Given the volume of work, this was all done by hand only using a Dremel for final polishing with Maas.
    In searching for the ideal grit to start with I worked down from 1500 to determine that 800 was the best way to begin.The results of which will be demonstrated the next time im in the field.
  • Věda a technologie

Komentáře • 14

  • @joeeckley5272
    @joeeckley5272 Před 2 lety +1

    I see that several people insist that polishing the pan will not speed up ignition-- -- under your circumstances, living in a very hot, and humid state-- polishing can help with the fact that it reduces surface area on a microscopic level, which will leave less area for condensation to occur, dampening your pan powder, and perhaps making ignition a complete fail. Some people are always out to rain on your parade-- you did a great job, and made the right decision.

  • @lockbuilder
    @lockbuilder Před 2 lety +2

    I might have built your lock! I am a contractor for Chambers Flintlocks and one model I build is the leftie 😀

    • @retrotechandelectronics
      @retrotechandelectronics  Před 2 lety

      That would be cool! Is there a stamp?

    • @lockbuilder
      @lockbuilder Před 2 lety +1

      @@retrotechandelectronics I don't stamp them, but when you originally got your lock was there a small letter stamped anywhere on the bridle? It would have matched the letter (or number) stamped on the lock plate and bottom of the frizzen.
      If there was only two stamped letters (frizzen and plate) it is probably my lock. If there were three stamped letters it would have to be from my very first batch of leftie silers. That would have been about 30 locks back in 2014. Since then I've been using a different process that doesn't necessitate the bridle being coded to the rest of the lock.

  • @Nick-wn1xw
    @Nick-wn1xw Před 3 lety

    I’m curious if you had asked Siler about the pros and cons before starting? I would be interested in what they would say. You did a great job on it. It is like a mirror. Will have zero impact on lock time though, just clean up or wiping between shots.

    • @retrotechandelectronics
      @retrotechandelectronics  Před 3 lety

      I did t consult siler. The presumption being the cost of polishing at the company would have increased the price. It’s made it wonderful for cleanup.

  • @woodenclocks6531
    @woodenclocks6531 Před 5 lety +2

    Polishing that pan will not speed up your lock time or ignition. It will only make it easier to clean up after being fired.

  • @paulm.6966
    @paulm.6966 Před 4 lety

    I just installed this replacement frizzen/strike plate. I cannot get any spark out of it. And I’ve tried different flints and turning them different ways. Do you need to sand and or file the frizzen before it will work or something? I would appreciate any opinions on this. Thank you

    • @retrotechandelectronics
      @retrotechandelectronics  Před 4 lety +2

      Use spirits, or alcohol to ensure no oil is on the frizzen or it will not throw a spark.

    • @craigcook1571
      @craigcook1571 Před 4 lety +1

      @Paul mark you may have gotten an un hardened frizzen. I have had that happen once. I think if they are too hard they won't spark either, but not sure on that one

    • @bobmiller4383
      @bobmiller4383 Před 3 lety +1

      Not all replacement frizzens are properly hardened. If a Chambers lock, call them and explain what you need.

    • @paulm.6966
      @paulm.6966 Před 3 lety

      @@bobmiller4383 i sent it back and got a new one

    • @southronjr1570
      @southronjr1570 Před 3 lety +1

      Sounds like the frizzen wasn't hardened properly, I know u sent it back already but if you run into that issue again, the youtuber Clickspring has an amazing video on case hardening steel to different depths on his Antikythera extras series, iirc it should be what he calls Antikythera fragments #3. He uses a furnaces to heat his but I have done the same thing using a good Mapp gas torch and a few firebrick set up to hold the heat but I just used caenit, which of course isn't available anymore.