I model the Central of Georgia railroad since I used to live in Jonesboro, GA. I bought a couple of Atlas GP-7s from another modeler in the Central of Georgia livery and he had never run them. When I got them they looked brand new and absolutely no wheel wear. I got them for $75.00 each. I've never paid more than $120.00 for an engine. I started collecting HO gauge back in the middle 80's but never really thought about modeling any certain railroad. Now things have changed and I'm getting an Atlas RS-3 in the Central of Georgia livery for Christmas along with a Kadee boxcar in the CofG livery. I also just got my very first brass diesel, a Fairbanks-Morse H-12-44 in the CofG livery. Back in the 80's I mostly bought Athearn engines and I hope the Atlas engines will perform as well as the Athearn ones as they are quite robust and keep on rolling. I recently started collecting Lionel 027 as I got the very same Lionel train set I had when I was a kid from my cousin. My train set got left behind in the attic when we moved from Hephzibah, GA. I couldn't believe my cousin had the exact same one and I sure was happy to get that set. I've now collected enough to make a 027 layout with 4 steam engines and 1 Texas Special diesel F-3. I think I have a couple dozen rolling stock to go with what I have. Oh yeah, I'm a DC guy only as I hate the sound of HO gauge DCC. I will probably end up weathering my brand new engines. I just don't like seeing pristine engines/rolling stock on the layout. Yeah, I have a section of track (about 1 ft. or 14 in.) on top of roadbed with a Kadee coupler height tool mounted on it so I can check coupler height on all my rolling stock & engines. Did you know that the back of the height tool can be used to see if your car body is at the right height? You have to check the body height with no coupler in place or it will hit the back of the tool. I just found about this the other day. If the car body will just slip over the end it is at the correct height. Then all ya gotta do is add a coupler & draft box. Instead of using the Kadee magnets, neodymium (rare earth) magnets can be used much more reliably. Since I'm a DC only guy I changed out all the magnets on my open frame (Pittman) motors with rare earth magnets (neodymium) and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and now my old Mantua Pacific's will "creep" around the tracks. I also changed all couplers to body mounted Kadee couplers and changed out all plastic wheels with Walthers Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. Cost a good chunk of $$ to do nearly 100 pieces of rolling stock. Another trick I learned is after mounting the coupler draft box and Kadee coupler, put an itsy bit of super glue next to one side of the draft box and chassis and a little itsy drop of super glue on part of the screw and draft box. That will ensure that the draft box will not move nor will the screw move. Another trick is if you glue two pieces of plastic together, make sure you use an X-acto knife (I use A-proxo knife) and scribe hash marks on both pieces to ensure a good bond. I try to never glue on draft boxes and use my Kadee drill and tap for a 256 screw. I've even drilled through the metal weights to add a screw to the draft box. Guarantee they will never come off. I've also had a some screws come through (like on a flat car) and used the Dremel to cut off the protruding screw and then paint it black or same color of the body. I've got an old Revel MOW (Maintenance of Way) grey car that I picked up a long time ago when I bought a friend's layout and just recently I found and purchased a True-Scale triple set of MOW cars, a kitchen car, maintenance car and caboose. Now I've just about got a whole set of MOW cars. All I need to finish the set is the crane car and crane. Real railroads never ran plastic wheels. I hate talgo trucks (couplers mounted to trucks). All 100 pieces of my rolling stock including coaches have body mounted Kadee couplers and Walthers Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. I'm in the process of making sure each piece is up to the NMRA weight standards. I get my weights from Harbor Freight - 1/4 & 1/2 oz. tire weights. And I paint all of 'em black. Be sure to save any plastic knuckle couplers and plastic wheel sets as they make great loads for gondolas. Cheers from an ex-Georgian in eastern TN & Merry Christmas
I'm impressed with what you've done with your space. It looks very efficiently utilized, without being overcrowded, but it looks like you will never be bored, especially with that collection on the walls! I love the flip up/down bridge too. Excellent engineering.
hello Ga Bigfoot Trains & it's is Randy and i like yours Video is cool Thanks Ga Bigfoot Trains Friends Randy & Merry Christmas & Happy New Year's & The Best in New year's in 2024 Ga Bigfoot Trains Thanks Friends Randy
Thanks for the video it's a wonderful looking layout, also it's inspiring to me because i have a 16×20 layout that is very flat land with only 1 bridge,so to see another flat land layout makes me feel pretty good, because most layout you see always have lots of mountains. Thank you for the inspiration. 🙂
I'm new to your channel, but I know your work from Tims Seaboard Central! Great modeling. I enjoyed your layout tour and am interested in your lift bridge. You mentioned using metal on it. Can you share more details? It appears to be a simple but sound solution to those of us who want to avoid duckunders. Thanks!
Yes please! Your lift bridge looked solid, how you cut the track made sense, and it looked easy enough for railroaders new to the hobby. Thanks! @@GaBigfootTrains
Love the video! I have a question so I saw one of your cars that look alot like the one I have same weathering and everything did you by chance sell it or give it to blue ox trains?
I model the Central of Georgia railroad since I used to live in Jonesboro, GA. I bought a couple of Atlas GP-7s from another modeler in the Central of Georgia livery and he had never run them. When I got them they looked brand new and absolutely no wheel wear. I got them for $75.00 each. I've never paid more than $120.00 for an engine. I started collecting HO gauge back in the middle 80's but never really thought about modeling any certain railroad. Now things have changed and I'm getting an Atlas RS-3 in the Central of Georgia livery for Christmas along with a Kadee boxcar in the CofG livery. I also just got my very first brass diesel, a Fairbanks-Morse H-12-44 in the CofG livery. Back in the 80's I mostly bought Athearn engines and I hope the Atlas engines will perform as well as the Athearn ones as they are quite robust and keep on rolling. I recently started collecting Lionel 027 as I got the very same Lionel train set I had when I was a kid from my cousin. My train set got left behind in the attic when we moved from Hephzibah, GA. I couldn't believe my cousin had the exact same one and I sure was happy to get that set. I've now collected enough to make a 027 layout with 4 steam engines and 1 Texas Special diesel F-3. I think I have a couple dozen rolling stock to go with what I have. Oh yeah, I'm a DC guy only as I hate the sound of HO gauge DCC. I will probably end up weathering my brand new engines. I just don't like seeing pristine engines/rolling stock on the layout.
Yeah, I have a section of track (about 1 ft. or 14 in.) on top of roadbed with a Kadee coupler height tool mounted on it so I can check coupler height on all my rolling stock & engines. Did you know that the back of the height tool can be used to see if your car body is at the right height? You have to check the body height with no coupler in place or it will hit the back of the tool. I just found about this the other day. If the car body will just slip over the end it is at the correct height. Then all ya gotta do is add a coupler & draft box. Instead of using the Kadee magnets, neodymium (rare earth) magnets can be used much more reliably. Since I'm a DC only guy I changed out all the magnets on my open frame (Pittman) motors with rare earth magnets (neodymium) and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and now my old Mantua Pacific's will "creep" around the tracks. I also changed all couplers to body mounted Kadee couplers and changed out all plastic wheels with Walthers Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. Cost a good chunk of $$ to do nearly 100 pieces of rolling stock. Another trick I learned is after mounting the coupler draft box and Kadee coupler, put an itsy bit of super glue next to one side of the draft box and chassis and a little itsy drop of super glue on part of the screw and draft box. That will ensure that the draft box will not move nor will the screw move. Another trick is if you glue two pieces of plastic together, make sure you use an X-acto knife (I use A-proxo knife) and scribe hash marks on both pieces to ensure a good bond. I try to never glue on draft boxes and use my Kadee drill and tap for a 256 screw. I've even drilled through the metal weights to add a screw to the draft box. Guarantee they will never come off. I've also had a some screws come through (like on a flat car) and used the Dremel to cut off the protruding screw and then paint it black or same color of the body.
I've got an old Revel MOW (Maintenance of Way) grey car that I picked up a long time ago when I bought a friend's layout and just recently I found and purchased a True-Scale triple set of MOW cars, a kitchen car, maintenance car and caboose. Now I've just about got a whole set of MOW cars. All I need to finish the set is the crane car and crane. Real railroads never ran plastic wheels. I hate talgo trucks (couplers mounted to trucks). All 100 pieces of my rolling stock including coaches have body mounted Kadee couplers and Walthers Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. I'm in the process of making sure each piece is up to the NMRA weight standards. I get my weights from Harbor Freight - 1/4 & 1/2 oz. tire weights. And I paint all of 'em black. Be sure to save any plastic knuckle couplers and plastic wheel sets as they make great loads for gondolas.
Cheers from an ex-Georgian in eastern TN & Merry Christmas
Wow this is so well done, gorgeous and amazing. The talent you have is crazy!
Thank u
Really nice looking layout…bridge scene 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽…that lift bridge is a unique stable design…looks exactly like what I need
Thank you very much!
I'm impressed with what you've done with your space. It looks very efficiently utilized, without being overcrowded, but it looks like you will never be bored, especially with that collection on the walls! I love the flip up/down bridge too. Excellent engineering.
Thank you
hello Ga Bigfoot Trains & it's is Randy and i like yours Video is cool Thanks Ga Bigfoot Trains Friends Randy & Merry Christmas & Happy New Year's & The Best in New year's in 2024 Ga Bigfoot Trains Thanks Friends Randy
Thanks, you too!
Great setup, looks fun. One has to be very confident with their shelving design. It would be thinking about it all the time lol.
Very nice layout in progress! Cheers - TN
Thank you very much!
Layout looks real good. Like the weathering on the locos as well. Just found your channel so I can’t wait to see more.
Thank you very much!
Thank you for sharing. Very nice update.👍
Thank you
Very fine! Keep up the great work!!!
Thank you very much!
Beautifuil layout sir!
@@darthbridges1077 his layout is even better in person
By the Looks Of It nice Layout Don’t Rush Perfection.
Thanks!
I also subscribed to your channel, great job on the lift gate
@@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267 welcome to the channel
Thanks for the video it's a wonderful looking layout, also it's inspiring to me because i have a 16×20 layout that is very flat land with only 1 bridge,so to see another flat land layout makes me feel pretty good, because most layout you see always have lots of mountains. Thank you for the inspiration. 🙂
Yours is a perfect size layout
Thanks for the overview, looks great!
Thank you
Nice Train Room.👍👍👍👍
Thank you
Your Welcome.👍
That’s quite the collection! Nice layout too. -Mark
Thank you
You have a great layout
Thank uuuuuuuuuu
I'm new to your channel, but I know your work from Tims Seaboard Central! Great modeling.
I enjoyed your layout tour and am interested in your lift bridge. You mentioned using metal on it. Can you share more details? It appears to be a simple but sound solution to those of us who want to avoid duckunders. Thanks!
Do you want me to do a detailed video on the bridge and its construction?!
Yes please! Your lift bridge looked solid, how you cut the track made sense, and it looked easy enough for railroaders new to the hobby. Thanks! @@GaBigfootTrains
You are making great progress , more work to come , what radius are you using
33
Love the video! I have a question so I saw one of your cars that look alot like the one I have same weathering and everything did you by chance sell it or give it to blue ox trains?
I do sell there …
@@GaBigfootTrains Oh, So have got th 2 bay covered hopper you weathered with bay on the side
How far back on each side of the swing bridge do you kill power to prevent locomotives from running off or crashing into the bridge when it is up?
I don’t kill the power on the track, I just remember to put it down
Great layout, how many engines do you have, do you like your Proto throthle
A lot, and three of them
Looks like some Seaboard System layout or cut ins?
Yes, some was in the beginning!!
Nice do you still live in Georgia?
i do..............
Where did you get the crane/shove for your work train?
Do you mean the one siting on the gondola?!
Sub #569
Thank u