This video is one of the best how to videos on youtube, all the steps are well described and nicely edited, I'll be watching it again when I take apart my chuck.thanks for making it.
Nice tutorial and excellent video, Greg. That little bit of heat sure did the trick and the moly-graphite should be long lasting for all the pressure points! Thanks for sharing with us.
My Jacob's chuck was binding up at frequently when I tightened or loosened it. I followed your video to disassemble it and found - drum roll - attached chips at the break-through from drilling the jaw holes. When the drill or mill that was used during manufacture broke through at a great angle, it left some attached chips that were never removed. When tightening, a jaw tooth would bend the chips into the hole and the next tooth would wedge against it. All three angled holes had these chips. Poor quality control. After removing the chips it works great. Thanks for the video.
I got a 0-3/8 Jacobs chuck in a bunch of neat stuff but I couldn't move the jaws. I watched the video twice & downloaded the online instructions. Everything went down as shown; Only 1 jaw was tight and a few light taps & clean/re-lubricate, Went back together nicely in my #1 Dake arbor press. Life is good.
I enjoyed the video. I have never seen a chuck pulled apart before.. I had a lathe tail stock chuck that was so bell mouthed as to be almost useless. I had nothing to loose so I put the chuck in the tail stock and a fine chain saw file in a collet in the headstock. I then brought the chuck up to the file and while the file was turning slowly I brought the jaws of the chuck together around the file. It instantly removed the bell mouth and eliminated almost all the run out. The only down side is that I lost the ability to chuck up very small drill bits but I can live with that. The chuck has been working well for years.
+Fred Miller precisely what I thought. I have a round(and very fine) diamond file that would solve the problem in a minute without disassembling the chuck or losing a ton of time making those repairs. Frankly I don't think this chuck would be used for any precise work and the file solution can make it better than with the original parts, which would not solve any other accumulated wear issues.. About the very small bits.. first they would not be used in such a chuck.. and second you can use another mini chuck (like hex for electric screwdriver) to handle those by attaching it to the larger one chuck.
solution get a little drill pull the chuck shaft and all when need to downsize just chuck it into bigger chuck as long as have very small lateral { nonconcemtric} play in bigger chuck works fine
thanks for the informative VIDEO on chucks but what this explained to me was why so many old drips slip, next time I go out I'll look for the wear pattern one the jaws.. great information..bet this is why so many keyless chucks don't bite well ... Will look at mine ..thanks for making the video!
I've never seen in drill chuck before, so I found this video very interesting (like most of Halligan). I will follow the debate on the jaw press yes or no.
Greg, Thanks for the rework on your Jacobs chuck. Now I know what to do if I ever need to repair one. And I will not freak out because the nut is broken in half! Looking forward to your "sky crane" video. Happy Holidays! Dave
Extremely informative for the rebuild. And the threaded nut is broken because if they cut it the thickness of the saw blade (material) would be missing once put back together. what they do is drill it on opposite sides the hit it with a hammer and break it. once back together it a perfect threaded nut, also contained by the outer casing.
Thanks for the Vid! I have an Elephant for my tail stock that kept jamming up, no idea how it cam apart. It comes apart just the same as this guy. The racks on the sides of the teeth that engage the split ring are about destroyed but at least now I can fix it.
Thanks for your interesting videos, I sure wish I had re-watched this one. I had forgotten the part about the jaws not being fully retracted. I didn't survive a 30 ton press. I guess the cost of education..bear
thank you; just broke down old and new drill chucks for our radial arm drills. I'll look for numbers and a difference in the jaws.The hard part is getting years of rust an dried coolant off. again thank you.
The bolt that attaches to the camera (and is found on most tripods etc) is : 1/4" 20tpi UNC. In the past it was a 1/4" 20tpi BSW but at some point someone decided to create a standard and use UNC instead. Most likely so they could charge you to buy a copy of their "standard". Here are some terms : tpi - Threads per inch BSW - British Standard Whitworth UNC - Unified Thread System Larger equipment sometimes uses : 3/8" 16tpi BSW and UNC? As mentioned above BSW stands for "British Standard Whitworth" and was introduced in 1841. UNC stands for "Unified Thread System" and was introduced in 1918. The number of threads per inch may be the same BUT the thread angle is different. BSW thread angle 55 degrees UNC thread angle 60 degrees Apparently a 1/4" UNC bolt will fit a 1/4" BSW nut (or camera shoe) despite the thread angle difference. For camera equipment the screw length is fairly short so the thread angle doesn't make much difference.
HF press is about the same as any... need support at the front end to resist pull on the handle and support the workpiece so the press base doesn't break. You can also cut down the runout a bit if you LIGHTLY tap on the pin as you snug, and walk the chuck key around the three holes as you tighten. The key will pull the collar and the ring off center, bringing the jaws off as well.
I have observed when rebuilding a jacobs chuck with damage to the face from hammer blows, the tapered ways the jaws travel in will be distorted more than you would think. it pays to do some careful observation before assembling in the outer end of the jaw ways for even small amounts of raised metal, you could have probably reduced the chuck runout some more. That was a good video keep up the good work!
As an alternative to using your torch, you could just set the collar on a standard light bulb. It will warm up just find. I do bearings that way all the time. Remember to wear gloves. You might be surprised how quickly it will get very warm.
Hello, Over the years when I have replaced ball bearing races on vehicles or motors, I always break the ball cage and save the two rings, these make excellent press rings for these types of repairs. They can be used as parallel spacers. Regards, James.
I've never seen a Jacob's chuck disassembled before; this is exactly what i was looking for. Thanks for that! If I may make a recommendation for future vids, you might wish to invest in a good LED light panel. Some of your close in shots and camera angles were a little dark. That's just a minor quibble, though, on an otherwise very informative video.
We use Lubriplate grease on our chucks. Every 6 months to 1 year we pull the chucks off the spindles and arbors and give them a clean and relube. Runout is checked too. If they are bad the jaws get replaced.
Had to clean my old chucks and found the jaw guides were dinged an were binding . I cleaned and trued them up with a dremml tool grinder . I should have put a kit in it . I have a chuck from a big 1/2 in drive drill with the shaft an gear on it . I'm not sure if the shaft is removable , so I put a taper on it . It just fits my Atlas but won't fit my South Bend . Both have the same taper
If you machined the taper yourself it's just due to variation in wear on the tapers. If you matched it to one it may not fit the same in another. If it's a purchased taper shank then it may be the tang. SB have no tang slot so you have to extend the quill ~1/4" to get it to seat.
Every part is slide fit except between the split nut and the outer sleeve. Knowing this fact will enable you where to apply pressure. Heating the sleeve near the bevel teeth loosens the press fit from the split nut.
Another great video. Last year before I got into this metal working and lathe business, I was working on a wood lathe making pens and bowls. Well, I had a Jacobs chuck on my drill press that failed on me. I took it off and somehow managed to get it apart. The first thing I noticed, was that broken nut and I still remember saying to myself, Ah hah !, that's what caused it to fail. There is now way I can repair that and put it back together. No sense keeping this thing and threw it into the junk and bought another chuck. Arrrrrrg, what have I done. Oh well, live and learn. Sure wished I had kept the chuck and now with your video, I know I could have saved that chuck. I just hope that chuck found it's way to chuck heaven. Great teaching technique, you make it look doable. I was surprised to see that arbor press work as well as it did. I recently bought a similar press at Harbor Freight. Now I need a good project to use it on. That chuck would have been nice ;-) . Ken
Got a #19 Super Chuck that has one jaw that will not extend with the other two and is jammed in so the chuck will only retract - open? - half way. The chuck isn't rusted or been beaten on. Any suggestions how to get the thing apart so I can assess the damage, clean and lube the thing? I tried pressing it apart as usual but there was clearly something jammed by the out-of-position jaw.
Per ISO 1222:2010,[1] the current tripod screw thread standard for attaching the camera calls for a 1/4-20 UNC[2] or 3/8-16 UNC thread.[3] Most consumer cameras are fitted with 1/4-20 UNC threads. Larger, professional cameras and lenses may be fitted with 3/8-16 UNC threads, plus a removable 1/4-20 UNC adapter, allowing them to be mounted on a tripod using either standard. Historically, The Royal Photographic Society recommended the thread standard for attaching older cameras to tripods was 3/16-24 [(British Standard Whitworth)BSW] 3/16 inch nominal diameter, 24 threads per inch, or 1/4-20 BSW[4] for smaller cameras and 3/8-16 BSW[5] for larger cameras and pan/tilt heads. In this application the BSW and UNC thread profiles are similar enough that one can mount a modern camera on a legacy tripod and vice versa. The UNC threads are 60 degree angle and flattened, whereas the BSW are 55 degree angle and rounded crest. However, at least one English manufacturer uses No.1 B.A. (British Association) for its tripod mount thread.
Excellent video. I never have seen the internal parts of those chucks. I had a dewalt drill, I think it came with Carbide jaws (just saying). Hey, for $20 YOU ARE STYLING!!!!
Thanks for this timely video Greg. Now I'm not afraid to crack open the Jacobs 18N ball bearing chuck I scored on eBay for $37 a few weeks ago. The jaws on mine are in great shape but the action is sticky. Hopefully I don't find any surprises inside as the cheapest rebuild kit I've found so far is $167(!).
Seeing broken parts can be surprising. I have worked on many engines over the years that have "broken" connecting rods. The big end is cracked apart to fit around the crankshaft and of course the caps are not interchangeable and only fit one way. Your chuck should be good as new and last for many years. Colin
When you were putting it back together, just as you got it, I said, there she goes, then you said, there she goes, pretty funny. I'll attack mine tomorrow, now that I know how to do it. Thanks for the info.
Without reading all the comments; I'd suggest that 'freezing' the 'innards' of the chuck , then heating the outer ring would allow it to be pressed together very easily ! ? Very nice to see a great example for the use of Buttress threads . . . I wonder if it would be worthwhile to attempt reconditioning the old 'jaws'. . . 'possibly build another chuck with them ? ( It would be educational ! ) ;) Good work ! . . . As a final thought : since you changed the bearing surfaces ( split nut & jaws) you must have realized that if you don't tighten all 3 jaws, there is the potential error of the split nut NOT ENGAGING 1/2 the diameter . . . which would 'cock' the tool . . . *indicator stem, or whatever is 'partially' chucked up ! (( the split nut isn't quite as accurate as a 3 jaw scroll chuck 'could be' - ** supposing that it all depends on how closely the grinder work was done ! )) Study of mechanisms & their shortcomings will eventually lead to better engineering ;) ! . . . Once an adept mind can see inside the hidden aspects of what make things 'work' !
Yes, do take it apart; even if you don't have a rebuild kit, the removal of old grease and trapped shavings can fix a balky chuck. It is also important to have a clear bore for each of the round teeth to slide in, a dented bore can jam one tooth. Drill bit worked by hand can find and clear a minor ding.
Thank you, lets hope some people will get the idea that good Quality tools are worth the money since you can rebuild them, too bad we live in a throw away world.
hey, great video! me and my lub partner dissasembled a drill yestrday. when we opened the chuck we were sure that the ring that rotate the teeth was broken becuase of the forces we used to get it apart. but i can see that you have 2 halfs of the ring too. can you tell me if we bought it like this or it was one piece that we broke? and also we saw 2 notches on the ring rhat you have too, can you tell me what the porpose of them? hope to hear from you soon!
As for a Arbor Press.. a Dake 1-1/2 or 1-1/2B three ton press is about the most you will need. That's the model we have and it seems to be the most popular out of all the different ones available.
Wow, what a surprise! I've stripped and cleaned Jacobs chucks many times and like others have said, would not press on the jaws. I was sure you'd made a mistake and had to go and look it up, but sure enough (even in the old literature) the picture shows pressing on the jaws, even though there's no actual description of doing so.
I don't know if you noticed the new chuck jaw laying next to the chuck key after you assembled at around 21:09 on your video. Hope you got the new one in!
What can you do to repair the back end of an otherwise nice 16N super ball bearing chuck that has a chowdered hole for the arbor, can I weld and machine it? Or should I just send it to Tom Lipton?
Depends on how bad it is. If it's only a few bands where the chuck may have spun on the taper you may be able to stone off the high spots and still have enough to make a secure bond.
***** Hahaha, that would be nice...take a look at my video "The Mother Load" and you'll see just how chunky this bowl of Chowder is, :D I'm still going to play with it when I have some spare time, but it will require refilling the entire taper with 309 SS TIG and re-boring it. Probably impossible to reclaim true center, but it will be educational in the very least. Thanks for the reply...Aloha.
I'm only beginner machinist, so this may sound crazy. Why not snug the chuck fully closed, put it in the tool holder, adjust until the runout is as small as possible, chuck a bit in the lathe, and drill a slightly larger diameter hole than is already there through the jaws? In my thinking, this would at least create reference edges that are parallel to each other, provided the jaws are machined well from the factory. With any appreciable pressure on the jaws, they should remain in contact with a bit on all of those edges. You would reduce its overall clamping friction and be unable to use bits smaller than the one you used to create the edges, but this seems like a fair tradeoff for higher accuracy, especially since you mentioned you would primarily use it for larger bits anyway. Would this be a solution at all?
I recently acquired a Walker Turner 15" drill press with a Jacob's chuck that was seized and after soaking it in Mineral spirits for 3 days and WD-40 for half a day I finally have it unstuck. My question is what type of press are you using to take the chuck apart?
Thank you, I just looked it up and for 60 bucks it might take me a bit until I can get one. I have however cleaned the press so that it works properly, I won't be able to restore it for some time due to a lack of funds but I hope to use it as soon as possible. I am only 19 but seeing such an old machine now in a better state than I found it makes a smile come to my face.
right on i know the feeling. even polishing metal to a new finish is a surprisingly satisfying feeling. I was excited when he mentioned the press, for $30, of course it seems to go for twice that. I keep hearing of great deals from Harbor Frieght, but alas those deals seemed to be over with when I catch wind. I think the trick is to check in your local store as they may push certain merchandise to clear stock.
I wrote an article on exactly that 2 years ago. www.projectsinmetal.com/shop-tip-cleaning-and-refurbishing-a-drill-chuck/ Despite what Jacob's saids, I would not advise pressing on the jaws directly, and to use a small tube. For a clean newish chuck there is no reason to hesitate in doing so, but for a dirty and ceased chuck it can cause the screw or jaws to chip.
mountain out of a mole hill. Yes, you need to put the jaws back in the right place (mark em w/ a sharpie) Lower the jaws so they are even w/ the body. Align the outer gear sleeve between the jaws of a vise and hit the body & jaws w/ a BFH. The body & jaws will slide out between the vise jaws. BFH = big effing hammer. On the install put the jaws back where they belong bottomed out on the body, put the new 2 piece gear on & slide the sleeve down as far as you can. Now get a impact socket that will accept the body and w/ a smaller hammer drive it all together.
Perhaps, you could mark the direction of error, and lap off some of the body grooves--say two grooves lapped out .002 inch each to relocate a .005 runout. Just the right diameter rod and some 400 paper might do it. Tedious trial and error, but pre-calculated it might get it in one try. You'd almost have to guess the amounts removed, but measurement might be possible at the front.
nice video. but what type of runout did you expect, its a standard chuck, some level of runout will always be present in a standard chuck. its not like its a milling chuck, or a collet chuck, or a milling super chuck which has practically no runnout
For those who may not have been able to discern, that "BROKEN NUT" is tapered, and that's why it can only go in one way. P.S. for what it's worth, on my 33B Jacobs Chuck, which I was able to put the jaws all the way in / down, then pressed it out with no problem, and no press, just used a old socket I had laying around, and the all mighty ball peen hammer, with some scrap aluminum to protect the face, just hit it out, no big deal.
I loved the video, but I have 3 points to say. 1. Why do you want the jaws halfway when disassembling? I really did not get your point when you explained it. On the other hand, I do believe that moving the jaws back just enough to be behind the top of the chuck so that you rest on that top when pressing on the rear of the cover, in that case, I am assuming that instead of pressing on the jaw's teeth, we are pressing on the back of the jaws because of the taper they have on their backs. It might take some time to think about it. 2. For the assembly, I think it is better to make the jaws all the way to the back. In that case, when you press you are pressing on the jaws end, hitting on their end of travel (housing) again instead of pressing on their teeth. Think about it also. 3. The last point, I want to say that I really don't think that there are 3 mating surfaces (tight fits) for the cover with the chuck body. I think only the 2 halves are against the cover. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks.
Great how to Video . First time I have seen a chuck taken apart . Nothing wrong with the cheap H F press ..You will see the same thing at a big name company for twice the price
i'm interested in finding out why someone needed to hit the chuck repeatedly with a hammer (or so it appears), it's pretty beat up and has probably been heavily abused, i'm sure the previous owner used a cheater bar on more than one occasion as well.
+Sandman Actual i have seen similar caused by it falling off the taper, and someone hitting it with a regular hammer to reseat it back on, the short taper tends to fall out and not the longer morse taper, not everyone knows how to fit a taper properly.
koviack yes dykem, or the blue sharpie version of it! lol, is what i was using to test my taper, in the end i cheated and used loctite, my taper was very short and still tended to fall off in hard conditions
My dear Sadman Actual, I was just preoccupied by the same question...so I made some resarch. I couldn't find the guy's name but I found out that he was a millitary, working in the anti tank division and, this is very imporatant, he found out that his wife was cheating on him...and this news reach him while he was having some problem with that chuck....
Thank You Sir > been working w/ these Chucks for many, many years. Never knew how to disassemble. Appreciate this vid.
I always wondered about the internal operation of a chuck. Thanks for taking the time to show us!
This video is one of the best how to videos on youtube, all the steps are well described and nicely edited, I'll be watching it again when I take apart my chuck.thanks for making it.
You've just convinced me to try restoring a J chuck (Sheffield U.K. vintage) that I was about to throw in the scrap pile. Thanks!
Excellent refurbish job, well demonstrated and videoed. Thanks
THANK YOU FOR YOUR CLEAR AND CONCISE INSTRUCTIONS, NOW I CAN GET AFTER MY OLD 1/2" MAKITA.
Glad I found this video. Thanks for posting a clear and concise tutorial.
Nice tutorial and excellent video, Greg. That little bit of heat sure did the trick and the moly-graphite should be long lasting for all the pressure points! Thanks for sharing with us.
Well done with plenty of clear instructions, and details.
Thanks
Great one Greg. Handy to know, and we'll all most likely do this at one time or another.
Good stuff Bud!! I didn't even know you could rebuild them!! I always just replaced the whole chuck!!☺
My Jacob's chuck was binding up at frequently when I tightened or loosened it. I followed your video to disassemble it and found - drum roll - attached chips at the break-through from drilling the jaw holes. When the drill or mill that was used during manufacture broke through at a great angle, it left some attached chips that were never removed. When tightening, a jaw tooth would bend the chips into the hole and the next tooth would wedge against it. All three angled holes had these chips. Poor quality control. After removing the chips it works great. Thanks for the video.
nice job Greg id never seen inside a chuck till now thanks for sharing
Very nice job on the chuck, thanks for sharing, Randy
Thanks for the video, I learn enough to try it myself!
Nice work well filmed and explained too , very nice chuck as well . cheers !
I got a 0-3/8 Jacobs chuck in a bunch of neat stuff but I couldn't move the jaws. I watched the video twice & downloaded the online instructions. Everything went down as shown; Only 1 jaw was tight and a few light taps & clean/re-lubricate, Went back together nicely in my #1 Dake arbor press. Life is good.
I enjoyed the video. I have never seen a chuck pulled apart before.. I had a lathe tail stock chuck that was so bell mouthed as to be almost useless. I had nothing to loose so I put the chuck in the tail stock and a fine chain saw file in a collet in the headstock. I then brought the chuck up to the file and while the file was turning slowly I brought the jaws of the chuck together around the file. It instantly removed the bell mouth and eliminated almost all the run out. The only down side is that I lost the ability to chuck up very small drill bits but I can live with that. The chuck has been working well for years.
As long as it works :-)
Fred Miller I wonder if I can do the same on my three jaw. It's in pretty bad shape...
+Fred Miller precisely what I thought. I have a round(and very fine) diamond file that would solve the problem in a minute without disassembling the chuck or losing a ton of time making those repairs. Frankly I don't think this chuck would be used for any precise work and the file solution can make it better than with the original parts, which would not solve any other accumulated wear issues..
About the very small bits.. first they would not be used in such a chuck.. and second you can use another mini chuck (like hex for electric screwdriver) to handle those by attaching it to the larger one chuck.
solution get a little drill pull the chuck shaft and all when need to downsize just chuck it into bigger chuck as long as have very small lateral { nonconcemtric} play in bigger chuck works fine
Thanks for making video had my chuck apart before but never lined up didn't have the jaws in order
Thanks for sharing this great video. I had no idea how to rebuild one.
thanks for the informative VIDEO on chucks but what this explained to me was why so many old drips slip, next time I go out I'll look for the wear pattern one the jaws.. great information..bet this is why so many keyless chucks don't bite well ... Will look at mine ..thanks for making the video!
I always wondered about the mechanism inside, now i know. thank you
!!!!! EXCELLENT VIDEO !!!! Thank you very much !!!!!
Most useful info Greg, thanks.
very interested to see it done
for the first time thank u i will be able to do my drill my self
I've never seen in drill chuck before, so I found this video very interesting (like most of Halligan). I will follow the debate on the jaw press yes or no.
thanks for the video
Have a Very Merry Christmas
Thanks a bunch one of mine needs this done will be ordering the parts.
Greg,
Thanks for the rework on your Jacobs chuck. Now I know what to do if I ever need to repair one. And I will not freak out because the nut is broken in half! Looking forward to your "sky crane" video.
Happy Holidays!
Dave
That video is up. Have fun :-)
Very Helpful Video, Thank You.
Extremely informative for the rebuild. And the threaded nut is broken because if they cut it the thickness of the saw blade (material) would be missing once put back together. what they do is drill it on opposite sides the hit it with a hammer and break it. once back together it a perfect threaded nut, also contained by the outer casing.
Thanks for the Vid! I have an Elephant for my tail stock that kept jamming up, no idea how it cam apart. It comes apart just the same as this guy. The racks on the sides of the teeth that engage the split ring are about destroyed but at least now I can fix it.
Very informative knowledge, I would not know about this. I would have had to buy a new one. Thanks for the information.
Thanks for your interesting videos, I sure wish I had re-watched this one. I had forgotten the part about the jaws not being fully retracted. I didn't survive a 30 ton press. I guess the cost of education..bear
Great vídeo 👍
thank you; just broke down old and new drill chucks for our radial arm drills. I'll look for numbers and a difference in the jaws.The hard part is getting years of rust an dried coolant off. again thank you.
Try electrolysis, acetone rinse the water off, and immediately oil/paint/etc before the surface rust restarts.
thanks a lot for the rebuild now I know how to do it
Thanks. I was going to replace my 3/4 Chuck. Now I will get kit and replace the kit
The bolt that attaches to the camera (and is found on most tripods etc) is : 1/4" 20tpi UNC. In the past it was a 1/4" 20tpi BSW but at some point someone decided to create a standard and use UNC instead. Most likely so they could charge you to buy a copy of their "standard".
Here are some terms :
tpi - Threads per inch
BSW - British Standard Whitworth
UNC - Unified Thread System
Larger equipment sometimes uses : 3/8" 16tpi
BSW and UNC?
As mentioned above BSW stands for "British Standard Whitworth" and was introduced in 1841. UNC stands for "Unified Thread System" and was introduced in 1918. The number of threads per inch may be the same BUT the thread angle is different.
BSW thread angle 55 degrees
UNC thread angle 60 degrees
Apparently a 1/4" UNC bolt will fit a 1/4" BSW nut (or camera shoe) despite the thread angle difference. For camera equipment the screw length is fairly short so the thread angle doesn't make much difference.
HF press is about the same as any... need support at the front end to resist pull on the handle and support the workpiece so the press base doesn't break. You can also cut down the runout a bit if you LIGHTLY tap on the pin as you snug, and walk the chuck key around the three holes as you tighten. The key will pull the collar and the ring off center, bringing the jaws off as well.
I have observed when rebuilding a jacobs chuck with damage to the face from hammer blows, the tapered ways the jaws travel in will be distorted more than you would think. it pays to do some careful observation before assembling in the outer end of the jaw ways for even small amounts of raised metal, you could have probably reduced the chuck runout some more. That was a good video keep up the good work!
As an alternative to using your torch, you could just set the collar on a standard light bulb. It will warm up just find. I do bearings that way all the time. Remember to wear gloves. You might be surprised how quickly it will get very warm.
when you heat the case to help pop it in place does the heat disperse into the chuck body thereby melting the grease you put in there?
Hello, Over the years when I have replaced ball bearing races on vehicles or motors, I always break the ball cage and save the two rings, these make excellent press rings for these types of repairs. They can be used as parallel spacers.
Regards, James.
thought it was just me.
I've never seen a Jacob's chuck disassembled before; this is exactly what i was looking for. Thanks for that! If I may make a recommendation for future vids, you might wish to invest in a good LED light panel. Some of your close in shots and camera angles were a little dark. That's just a minor quibble, though, on an otherwise very informative video.
Dude's in love with his own voice.
Good information
We use Lubriplate grease on our chucks. Every 6 months to 1 year we pull the chucks off the spindles and arbors and give them a clean and relube. Runout is checked too. If they are bad the jaws get replaced.
Had to clean my old chucks and found the jaw guides were dinged an were binding . I cleaned and trued them up with a dremml tool grinder . I should have put a kit in it . I have a chuck from a big 1/2 in drive drill with the shaft an gear on it . I'm not sure if the shaft is removable , so I put a taper on it . It just fits my Atlas but won't fit my South Bend . Both have the same taper
If you machined the taper yourself it's just due to variation in wear on the tapers. If you matched it to one it may not fit the same in another. If it's a purchased taper shank then it may be the tang. SB have no tang slot so you have to extend the quill ~1/4" to get it to seat.
Every part is slide fit except between the split nut and the outer sleeve. Knowing this fact will enable you where to apply pressure. Heating the sleeve near the bevel teeth loosens the press fit from the split nut.
Another great video. Last year before I got into this metal working and lathe business, I was working on a wood lathe making pens and bowls. Well, I had a Jacobs chuck on my drill press that failed on me. I took it off and somehow managed to get it apart. The first thing I noticed, was that broken nut and I still remember saying to myself, Ah hah !, that's what caused it to fail. There is now way I can repair that and put it back together. No sense keeping this thing and threw it into the junk and bought another chuck. Arrrrrrg, what have I done. Oh well, live and learn. Sure wished I had kept the chuck and now with your video, I know I could have saved that chuck. I just hope that chuck found it's way to chuck heaven. Great teaching technique, you make it look doable. I was surprised to see that arbor press work as well as it did. I recently bought a similar press at Harbor Freight. Now I need a good project to use it on. That chuck would have been nice ;-) . Ken
Press isn't bad so far.
Good info, thanks
Just a FYI, a bearing puller works great for this if you have one
Al
Got a #19 Super Chuck that has one jaw that will not extend with the other two and is jammed in so the chuck will only retract - open? - half way. The chuck isn't rusted or been beaten on. Any suggestions how to get the thing apart so I can assess the damage, clean and lube the thing? I tried pressing it apart as usual but there was clearly something jammed by the out-of-position jaw.
Per ISO 1222:2010,[1] the current tripod screw thread standard for attaching the camera calls for a 1/4-20 UNC[2] or 3/8-16 UNC thread.[3] Most consumer cameras are fitted with 1/4-20 UNC threads. Larger, professional cameras and lenses may be fitted with 3/8-16 UNC threads, plus a removable 1/4-20 UNC adapter, allowing them to be mounted on a tripod using either standard.
Historically, The Royal Photographic Society recommended the thread standard for attaching older cameras to tripods was 3/16-24 [(British Standard Whitworth)BSW] 3/16 inch nominal diameter, 24 threads per inch, or 1/4-20 BSW[4] for smaller cameras and 3/8-16 BSW[5] for larger cameras and pan/tilt heads. In this application the BSW and UNC thread profiles are similar enough that one can mount a modern camera on a legacy tripod and vice versa. The UNC threads are 60 degree angle and flattened, whereas the BSW are 55 degree angle and rounded crest. However, at least one English manufacturer uses No.1 B.A. (British Association) for its tripod mount thread.
Excellent video. I never have seen the internal parts of those chucks. I had a dewalt drill, I think it came with Carbide jaws (just saying). Hey, for $20 YOU ARE STYLING!!!!
Douce for moly/graph grease? Good video. I’ve got two chucks that need tear down.
Thanks for this timely video Greg. Now I'm not afraid to crack open the Jacobs 18N ball bearing chuck I scored on eBay for $37 a few weeks ago. The jaws on mine are in great shape but the action is sticky. Hopefully I don't find any surprises inside as the cheapest rebuild kit I've found so far is $167(!).
I just checked e-bay and all I came up with was for the 14 and 16N kits. Just beware that there will be bearings inside your chuck.
BRAVO
MERCI
Pour au dela
De cette philosophie Aussi ............
Seeing broken parts can be surprising. I have worked on many engines over the years that have "broken" connecting rods. The big end is cracked apart to fit around the crankshaft and of course the caps are not interchangeable and only fit one way.
Your chuck should be good as new and last for many years.
Colin
Yup saw that and the 4 letter words started flying untill I looked at the package. Got a little ahead of myself :-)
I saw in another video that the split nut has the slanted part going towards the jaws end of the chuck. Good video :)
so the jaws need to be out most of the way? or does this matter?awesome video, best chuck tare-down/rebuild ive seen so far.. keep up the great work!
I allways wonder if it came apart
one of my jaws in my 3/8 inch drill fell and wont come out all the way with the other 2...
-WHY!? its a black & decker
When you were putting it back together, just as you got it, I said, there she goes, then you said, there she goes, pretty funny.
I'll attack mine tomorrow, now that I know how to do it.
Thanks for the info.
Without reading all the comments; I'd suggest that 'freezing' the 'innards' of the chuck , then heating the outer ring would allow it to be pressed together very easily ! ?
Very nice to see a great example for the use of Buttress threads . . .
I wonder if it would be worthwhile to attempt reconditioning the old 'jaws'. . . 'possibly build another chuck with them ? ( It would be educational ! ) ;) Good work !
. . . As a final thought : since you changed the bearing surfaces ( split nut & jaws) you must have realized that if you don't tighten all 3 jaws, there is the potential error of the split nut NOT ENGAGING 1/2 the diameter . . . which would 'cock' the tool . . . *indicator stem, or whatever is 'partially' chucked up ! (( the split nut isn't quite as accurate as a 3 jaw scroll chuck 'could be' - ** supposing that it all depends on how closely the grinder work was done ! )) Study of mechanisms & their shortcomings will eventually lead to better engineering ;) ! . . . Once an adept mind can see inside the hidden aspects of what make things 'work' !
Do you recomend taking my chuck apart because in one spot it is stiff ?
Yes, do take it apart; even if you don't have a rebuild kit, the removal of old grease and trapped shavings can fix a balky chuck. It is also important to have a clear bore for each of the round teeth to slide in, a dented bore can jam one tooth. Drill bit worked by hand can find and clear a minor ding.
Thank you, lets hope some people will get the idea that good Quality tools are worth the money since you can rebuild them, too bad we live in a throw away world.
hey, great video!
me and my lub partner dissasembled a drill yestrday. when we opened the chuck we were sure that the ring that rotate the teeth was broken becuase of the forces we used to get it apart. but i can see that you have 2 halfs of the ring too. can you tell me if we bought it like this or it was one piece that we broke? and also we saw 2 notches on the ring rhat you have too, can you tell me what the porpose of them?
hope to hear from you soon!
Manufactured with notches and deliberately broken at that point to be able to install. You did not break it.
very good
As for a Arbor Press.. a Dake 1-1/2 or 1-1/2B three ton press is about the most you will need. That's the model we have and it seems to be the most popular out of all the different ones available.
Yeah I've been searching, but the only ones that have come up close to me have been bigguns.
yeah. Have to set up a search. We got ours at a local shop going out of business.
Wow, what a surprise! I've stripped and cleaned Jacobs chucks many times and like others have said, would not press on the jaws. I was sure you'd made a mistake and had to go and look it up, but sure enough (even in the old literature) the picture shows pressing on the jaws, even though there's no actual description of doing so.
hi hal,,can u show how the mechanism of locking device for quick change tool post,, the bxa..
rafi saifuddin Have a look here. czcams.com/video/oSV2kC-Em5U/video.html I go through how it works
I don't know if you noticed the new chuck jaw laying next to the chuck key after you assembled at around 21:09 on your video. Hope you got the new one in!
I think this might be why he still has a relatively large run out at the end, good video though!
The outer piece is only press fit to the nut, if it were pressed to the inner portion in three places as you described it wouldn't turn.
What can you do to repair the back end of an otherwise nice 16N super ball bearing chuck that has a chowdered hole for the arbor, can I weld and machine it? Or should I just send it to Tom Lipton?
Depends on how bad it is. If it's only a few bands where the chuck may have spun on the taper you may be able to stone off the high spots and still have enough to make a secure bond.
*****
Hahaha, that would be nice...take a look at my video "The Mother Load" and you'll see just how chunky this bowl of Chowder is, :D
I'm still going to play with it when I have some spare time, but it will require refilling the entire taper with 309 SS TIG and re-boring it. Probably impossible to reclaim true center, but it will be educational in the very least. Thanks for the reply...Aloha.
I'm only beginner machinist, so this may sound crazy. Why not snug the chuck fully closed, put it in the tool holder, adjust until the runout is as small as possible, chuck a bit in the lathe, and drill a slightly larger diameter hole than is already there through the jaws? In my thinking, this would at least create reference edges that are parallel to each other, provided the jaws are machined well from the factory. With any appreciable pressure on the jaws, they should remain in contact with a bit on all of those edges. You would reduce its overall clamping friction and be unable to use bits smaller than the one you used to create the edges, but this seems like a fair tradeoff for higher accuracy, especially since you mentioned you would primarily use it for larger bits anyway. Would this be a solution at all?
I recently acquired a Walker Turner 15" drill press with a Jacob's chuck that was seized and after soaking it in Mineral spirits for 3 days and WD-40 for half a day I finally have it unstuck. My question is what type of press are you using to take the chuck apart?
+WolfBearMoon
It's a little Harbor Freight arbor press
Thank you, I just looked it up and for 60 bucks it might take me a bit until I can get one. I have however cleaned the press so that it works properly, I won't be able to restore it for some time due to a lack of funds but I hope to use it as soon as possible. I am only 19 but seeing such an old machine now in a better state than I found it makes a smile come to my face.
right on i know the feeling. even polishing metal to a new finish is a surprisingly satisfying feeling. I was excited when he mentioned the press, for $30, of course it seems to go for twice that. I keep hearing of great deals from Harbor Frieght, but alas those deals seemed to be over with when I catch wind. I think the trick is to check in your local store as they may push certain merchandise to clear stock.
Never shop at HF without a 20 or 25% off coupon. Print them out online and they're usually in all kinds of magazines and flyers.
Thanks sir
Standard camera socket threads are 1/4" Whitworth and in larger tripod fittings 3/8" Whitworth-a world standard would you believe
I wrote an article on exactly that 2 years ago.
www.projectsinmetal.com/shop-tip-cleaning-and-refurbishing-a-drill-chuck/
Despite what Jacob's saids, I would not advise pressing on the jaws directly, and to use a small tube. For a clean newish chuck there is no reason to hesitate in doing so, but for a dirty and ceased chuck it can cause the screw or jaws to chip.
I totally agree on this one! Your relying on the teeth to withstand the amount of pressure it takes to disassemble and ro assemble.
Razor Works Reassembling I did not press on the jaws. Honestly disassembling it I didn't much care because the jaws were going south anyway.
mountain out of a mole hill. Yes, you need to put the jaws back in the right place (mark em w/ a sharpie) Lower the jaws so they are even w/ the body. Align the outer gear sleeve between the jaws of a vise and hit the body & jaws w/ a BFH. The body & jaws will slide out between the vise jaws. BFH = big effing hammer. On the install put the jaws back where they belong bottomed out on the body, put the new 2 piece gear on & slide the sleeve down as far as you can. Now get a impact socket that will accept the body and w/ a smaller hammer drive it all together.
Nobody ever told you that you have to tighten all three chuck key holes evenly to get the best runout?
Why did you cut away the portion where you remove the tapered tang from the Chuck? It goes from on to off without any explanation on how or why.
There are 2 other videos on my channel of how to remove them
Perhaps, you could mark the direction of error, and lap off some of the body grooves--say two grooves lapped out .002 inch each to relocate a .005 runout. Just the right diameter rod and some 400 paper might do it. Tedious trial and error, but pre-calculated it might get it in one try. You'd almost have to guess the amounts removed, but measurement might be possible at the front.
8yrs later Im watching this literally wearing the same exact shirt. Totally random, but what are the chances
nice video.
but what type of runout did you expect, its a standard chuck, some level of runout will always be present in a standard chuck. its not like its a milling chuck, or a collet chuck, or a milling super chuck which has practically no runnout
yippeeeee1 Not expecting miracles just needed to get it better than it was. Especially with the visible wear.
WHAT'S THE MAKE & MODEL # OF YOUR DIAL INDICATOR BASE & ARM ASSEMBLY ? THANKS
Noga DG10533
THANKS
For those who may not have been able to discern, that "BROKEN NUT" is tapered, and that's why it can only go in one way. P.S. for what it's worth, on my 33B Jacobs Chuck, which I was able to put the jaws all the way in / down, then pressed it out with no problem, and no press, just used a old socket I had laying around, and the all mighty ball peen hammer, with some scrap aluminum to protect the face, just hit it out, no big deal.
Try tightening all 3 spots and check the run out. It will probably be better
è possibile la traduzione in italiano
I loved the video, but I have 3 points to say.
1. Why do you want the jaws halfway when disassembling?
I really did not get your point when you explained it.
On the other hand, I do believe that moving the jaws back just enough to be behind the top of the chuck so that you rest on that top when pressing on the rear of the cover, in that case, I am assuming that instead of pressing on the jaw's teeth, we are pressing on the back of the jaws because of the taper they have on their backs. It might take some time to think about it.
2. For the assembly, I think it is better to make the jaws all the way to the back. In that case, when you press you are pressing on the jaws end, hitting on their end of travel (housing) again instead of pressing on their teeth. Think about it also.
3. The last point, I want to say that I really don't think that there are 3 mating surfaces (tight fits) for the cover with the chuck body. I think only the 2 halves are against the cover.
Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks.
Great how to Video . First time I have seen a chuck taken apart . Nothing wrong with the cheap H F press ..You will see the same thing at a big name company for twice the price
too much echo in your shop , need to put a rug down somewhere or on the wall somewhere!
WOW !! Cool Video. Im Gonna Check my Chucks Now That I Know they can be Rebuilt. I Saw your last vid And Bought My Self a Noga. I Love It.
Love mine so far. Should have bought one a long time ago.
i'm interested in finding out why someone needed to hit the chuck repeatedly with a hammer (or so it appears), it's pretty beat up and has probably been heavily abused, i'm sure the previous owner used a cheater bar on more than one occasion as well.
+Sandman Actual
Probably, but I got it for next to nothing and the new jaws and nuts were cheap too.
+Sandman Actual i have seen similar caused by it falling off the taper, and someone hitting it with a regular hammer to reseat it back on, the short taper tends to fall out and not the longer morse taper, not everyone knows how to fit a taper properly.
koviack
yes dykem, or the blue sharpie version of it! lol, is what i was using to test my taper, in the end i cheated and used loctite, my taper was very short and still tended to fall off in hard conditions
My dear Sadman Actual, I was just preoccupied by the same question...so I made some resarch.
I couldn't find the guy's name but I found out that he was a millitary, working in the anti tank division and, this is very imporatant, he found out that his wife was cheating on him...and this news reach him while he was having some problem with that chuck....
Cut a1/4 20 bolt off to make a camera mount.that what I do.
Do not get out jaws. You can damage thread on them.
how to repair keys less drill chuk
search for Tom Lipton Albrecht Chuck Rebuild
De walt